FR2992554A1 - Performing non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of skin aging, comprises subjecting skin to mechanical action, and applying a cosmetic composition comprising an agent for reducing a visibility of pore size and/or improving shininess to skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Performing non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment, comprises: subjecting skin to a mechanical action using a device having first and second contact elements adjacent and movable with respect to each other, preferably with an oscillating motion, and in contact with the skin; and applying a cosmetic composition to the skin before, during and/or after the subjecting step, where the composition comprises an agent for reducing a visibility of pore size and/or improving shininess. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to the cosmetic, i.e. non-therapeutic, treatment of the skin, in particular to give it a younger appearance. Clinically, the aging of the skin is manifested by signs such as the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, spots, enlarged pores, lack of tone, loss of elasticity and dry skin, dull complexion facial skin sagging / loosening Skin rejuvenation compositions are known, for example from EP-A-1333021 which discloses hydrogenated cucurbic acid compounds such as 3-hydroxy-2-acid. pentyl-cyclopentane acetic to promote desquamation of the skin and stimulate the renewal of epidermis, fight against the signs of skin aging, improve the radiance of the complexion and / or smooth the skin of the face. In the field of beauty care, micro-abrasion is a popular treatment for "rejuvenating" the skin. However, this technique of removing a portion of the skin layer cornea with abrasive materials can cause irritation. There is a need to improve the effectiveness of cosmetic skin rejuvenation treatments in a less irritating manner. According to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method, comprising the steps of: a) subjecting the skin to a mechanical action, in particular using a device comprising first and second elements of contact adjacent and movable with respect to each other, preferably with an oscillatory movement, and in contact with the skin, b) proceed, before, during and / or after step a) to the application on the skin 25 of a cosmetic composition comprising an agent to reduce the visibility of the pore size and / or improve the shine. The mechanical action may be an oscillation movement, in particular linear or rotating, or a rotational movement, of at least one contact element of the device, in contact with the skin. The treatment according to the invention, comprising both a mechanical action on the skin associated with the application of a particular composition and the application of this particular composition alone, has a positive effect on the signs of cutaneous aging, in particular In particular, it limits the expansion of the pores, refreshes the complexion, improves the tonicity and the general appearance of the skin. The mechanical action facilitates the deep penetration of the composition and improves its effectiveness. In particular, the method makes it possible to improve the state of hydration of the skin. The mechanical action may comprise the deformation of the skin from a neutral position to a first deformed position for which the skin has substantially reached its elastic limit, followed by the return of the skin to said neutral position. The mechanical action can provide a massaging and / or cleansing effect.

Step b) can take place before, after or during step a). Step b) may in particular be implemented in the hour before or in the hour following the mechanical action. It may not be applied to the treated area of product other than the composition according to the invention, especially in the hour before and / or in the hour following the mechanical action. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, step b) takes place after step a), in particular in the hour following the mechanical action, or even in the half-hour following the mechanical action. Preferably, the process according to the invention is carried out after the prior cleaning of the skin with water or a usual cleaning composition. The cleaning composition may be of any conventional type, being different from the composition according to the invention. By "skin" is meant the skin of the face, the body, and the scalp. The treated skin may be wrinkled or not wrinkled. The treated skin may be non-acne skin. By "non-acne skin" is meant healthy skin lacking the clinical manifestations of acne, such as the presence of many acne pimples. In other words, over the entire area of skin subjected to mechanical action according to the method according to the invention, the skin is not clinically acne. The entire area of treated skin is devoid of an area having developed acne. By "clinical manifestations of acne" is meant the presence on the skin of 30 acne lesions. Frequency In the case of a mechanical action generated by at least one contact element that is animated by an oscillatory movement, the frequency of the oscillatory movement can be between 20 Hz and 1 kHz, better still between 80 Hz and 200 Hz. At 80 Hz, the oscillation frequency is far from optimal and the mechanical implementation is more difficult. Above 200 Hz, a strong tickling reaction, most often unpleasant, can occur in the area of the nose. The oscillatory action may have the effect of placing the skin alternately in tension and in compression. Differential shear movement can also be applied, or even a combination of shear and tension / compression. Device The mechanical action is exerted by means of one or more contact elements of a device, which can be animated by an oscillatory, linear or rotational movement, or by a rotational movement, by example in the same sense. The device may comprise a housing arranged to maintain the contact element or elements substantially adjacent to each other. The device may include an actuation system arranged to move one or more contact members by oscillatory or rotational movement, while the ends of the contact elements are in contact with the skin. The device may comprise first and second contact elements animated by a relative movement, for example oscillatory or not. The actuation system can apply sinusoidal oscillation to adjacent contact elements. In the case where the device comprises first and second aforementioned contact elements animated relative movement with respect to each other, they may have ends substantially in the same plane. The contact element or elements, and in particular the first and second moving contact elements of a relative movement, are preferably flexible. The device used in the process according to the invention may be as disclosed in application WO2005 / 091748.

Each contact element may comprise at least one row of tufts of bristles, in particular as described in the application W02005 / 091748 page 16 line 3 to page 18 line 35. Each contact element may comprise several rows of tufts of bristles. The rows of tufts of bristles may include a plurality of circular or rectilinear rows. The device may comprise contact elements, such as tufts of bristles, fixed relative to the device. Thus, the rows of tufts of bristles may further comprise an outer row of tufts of bristles, fixed. In a particular embodiment, the device comprises a single circular row of tufts of bristles, driven in rotation in the same direction. Alternatively, the device comprises several rows rotated in the same direction.

In a particular embodiment, the rows of tufts of bristles comprise an alternation of first and second concentric rows, the first mobiles, for example animated by an oscillatory movement or rotation, and the second fixed with respect to the housing of the device. In one variant, the rows of tufts of bristles comprise an alternation of first and second circular rows, the first ones moving in a first direction relative to the casing of the device and the second moving in the opposite direction relative to the casing of the device, the movements of the first and second rows preferably being each of the oscillating movements. The bristles of the contact members may have a diameter of between 2 and 5 mils (thousandths of an inch), with a preferred diameter of 3 mils and a length of between 0.6 cm and 1.5 cm. Preferably, the length of the bristles is between 1 and 1.2 cm. The tufts of bristles may have mechanical characteristics such that a displacement d of 0.18 cm at the base of a tuft causes the application of a a force of between 0.3 g and 1.4 g on the skin at the end of said tuft, in particular a force of between 0.5 and 0.7 g.

The range of motion at the base of one of the tufts of hair may be in the range of 10% to 125% of the center-to-center distance between adjacent rows moving relative to each other , especially close to 45%. The treatment according to the invention makes it possible to remedy the aesthetic disorders to which an aged skin is often associated, for example wrinkles, a lack of desquamation, a dull and dull complexion, an increased pore size, or even to prevent the appearance of these events. The treatment according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the aging of the skin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "prevent" means reducing at least partly the risk of manifestation of a given phenomenon. The partial decrease implies that the effects remain but to a lesser degree than before the implementation of the invention. The treatment according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to prevent and / or treat a skin of dull and / or inhomogeneous appearance, waxy, yellowish, lack of tonicity, loss of elasticity and dryness or tired appearance. The method can have an effect on the physiological and clinical signs of aging of the skin. An effect of the treatment method according to the invention can be to reduce the pore size, improve the radiance of the complexion, improve the glow of the skin, maintain the skin hydrated, improve the tone of the skin. skin. The method may be a treatment of the face or body, or even the scalp. The method can treat wrinkles, especially crow's feet wrinkles. The method can be an anti-aging treatment, a treatment for decreasing the size of the pores of the skin.

Mechanical Action The method according to the invention can be implemented on the face as a whole or in an area thereof or on the body or part of the body. The device exerting the mechanical action can be used successively over several areas to cover a larger treatment area. The device is moved on each zone.

The treatment can be carried out at least once a day at least one day a week, better two days a week, or alternatively five days a week, or even every day. This treatment can be carried out twice a day, for example morning and evening.

In an exemplary implementation of the invention, said treatment is carried out at least once a week. The treatment can be performed on the skin of a subject after evaluation of the skin of this subject, the evaluation having made it possible to determine the apparent effects of aging of the skin in the subject. The evaluation can result from a simple observation, a measurement made on the skin of the subject, or a self-evaluation. Self-evaluation can result, for example, from answers given by the subject to a detailed questionnaire concerning sensations or visual observations of the state of his skin under different observation conditions, for example at certain times of the day or a certain time. after the toilet. Composition The composition is a cosmetic composition, in particular for care, hygiene and / or make-up of the skin. A composition of the invention is especially a composition intended to be applied to the skin of the face. The composition may be in the form of a care product, a solar product or after sun, a daily photoprotective care product, a product for the body, a complexion to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or makeup base for the make-up for the face or a make-up composition for the body. The composition used in the process according to the invention can be applied for the purpose of improving the general condition of the epidermis, in particular for the restoration of its aesthetic appearance. The composition may be under the failure of a lotion, a milk, a gel, a foam, a micellar water, a rinse-off or a rinse-off composition, a serum. The composition is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

The composition advantageously comprises a cucurbic acid derivative. The compound derived from cucurbic acid may be a compound chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I): OH (I) in which: R 1 represents a radical COOR 3, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C alkyl radical; C4, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts. Preferably, R1 denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe, -000-CH2-CH3, -000-CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH (01 -1) -CH3. Preferentially, R 1 denotes a -COOH radical. Preferably, R2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. In particular, R2 may be a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical. According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (1) is chosen from 3-hydroxy-2 - [(2Z) -2-pentenyl] -cyclopentane acetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acid. acetic. Preferably, the compound (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid; this compound can be in particular under the hay of sodium salt. The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH 4; 4-quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as for example the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) amine, tri- (2- hydroxyethyl) amine; lysine salts, arginine. Salts chosen from among the sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used. Preferably, the sodium salt is used.

The compound of formula (I) defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1.5% to 5% in weight. The composition according to the invention comprises an inulin with hydrophobic groups chosen from hydrophobic carbamate or ester groups.

By hydrophobic carbamate group is meant a C4-C32 alkyl carbamate group, i.e. a -OCONH-R group, R being a C4-C32 alkyl. The term hydrophobic ester group is understood to mean a C4-C32 alkyl ester group, that is to say a -OCO-R group, R being a C4-C32 alkyl. These hydrophobic groups are derived in particular from the reaction of the hydroxyl groups of the starting inulin with either an isocyanate RNC-O (to form a carbamate group), or an acid R-COOH or acid chloride R- COCl (to form an ester group). Inulin belongs to the fructan family. Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with a plurality of different saccharide residues of fructose. The fructans can be linear or branched. The fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis in particular enzymatic. The fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by 13-2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulin. The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by P-2-6 bonds. These products are levanes.

The third group corresponds to mixed frucans, ie having 13-2-6 and 13-2-1 sequences. They are essentially branched fructans as the gram narres. Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichokes. Preferably, the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained for example from chicory. In particular, the inulin has a degree of polymerization ranging from 2 to 100 and preferably from 2 to 70. Advantageously, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C6-C20 alkyl carbamate group. Preferably, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C8-C18 alkyl carbamate group. Preferably, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C10-C18 alkyl carbamate group. More preferably, the hydrophobic carbamate group is an alkyl CC 10-carbamate group. According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a lauryl carbamate group (C 12 alkyl group).

Inulins with hydrophobic carbamate groups are for example described in application WO 99/64549. Advantageously, the hydrophobic ester group is a C6-C20 alkyl ester group. Preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is a C8-C20 alkyl ester group. Preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is a C10-C20 alkyl ester group. More preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is a C10-C18 alkyl ester group. Inulins with hydrophobic ester groups are for example described in US Pat. No. 5,877,144. Preferably, an inulin with hydrophobic carbamate groups is used. The inulin with hydrophobic carbamate or ester groups may have a degree of substitution (OH level of inulin substituted by a hydrophobic group) ranging from 0.01 to 0.5, preferably ranging from 0.02 to 0.4 preferably from 0.05 to 0.35. Advantageously, the degree of substitution can range from 0.1 to 0.3. As examples of inulin with hydrophobic ester groups, mention may be made of stearoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem Inst by the company Engelhard and Rheopearl 1NS by the company Ciba; palmitoyl inulin; Undecylenoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem 1NUK and Lifidrem INUM by the company Engelhard. As an example of inulin with hydrophobic carbamate groups, mention may be made of the lauryl carbamate inulin such as that sold under the name INUTEC SP1 by the company BENEO. The inulin with hydrophobic ester or carbamate groups may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of said copolymer may range from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of said copolymer may range from 0.2% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the cucurbic acid compound of formula (I) (referred to as A) and the inulin with hydrophobic groups (said B) described above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio A / B ranging from 3 Preferably, this weight ratio A / B may range from 4 to 9. The viscosity of a composition of the invention may be measured according to any method known to those skilled in the art, and in particular according to following conventional method. Thus, the measurement can be carried out at 25 ° C. using a Rhéomat 180, equipped with a mobile rotating at 200 rpm. The person skilled in the art can choose the mobile device for measuring the viscosity, among the mobiles, M1 or M2 or M3 or M4 on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to carry out the measurement. The cosmetic composition used in the process according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with the materials and / or the keratin fibers of human beings, such as, for example, in a nonlimiting manner. , skin, mucous membranes, nails, scalp and / or hair. The composition according to the invention may comprise a desquamating and / or astringent agent. Desquamating agents "desquamating agent" means any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxyacids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including the acid n-octanoyl 5-salicylic); EO-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives; or on the enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of the comedodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASE under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetylglucosamine. Other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention include oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, trilactate of glycerol, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon derivatives of salicylate as in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucase as in patent EP 0 218 200, salts of 5-acyl salicylic acid, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in patent EP 0 899 330, jasmonic acid and derivatives as in patent applications Exfolactive Silab (ficus opuntia indica flower extract), Kawaken Soypon fine chemicals (sodium cocoyl sarcosinate). Preferred ointment agents include beta-hydroxyacids, as described in EP-A-033320. n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, it will be used in the compositions of the invention a desquamating agent chosen from n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid; urea; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Astringent Agents By "astringent agents" is meant according to the invention agents for controlling the dilation of the sebaceous follicles. As astringent agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of Laricyl LS8865® from Cognis, Phytofirm LS9120® from Cognis, Tanlex VE / VB® from Ichimaru Pharcos, laponite, aluminum salts, extracts of centella (formerly Plantactiv centella of Cognis), Varisoft 432 CG® from Degussa, extracts of horse chestnut, extracts of mauve, Hammamelis, Almondermin LS 3380® from Cognis, extracts of burdock, l Extrapone 9 specia® from Symrise, scutellaria extracts, Ulmaire extracts (ex Cytobiol Ulmaire from Libiol), Bell flavors & fragrances B1348® Herb extract, extracts from acacia, elm, white willow, candie, birch, meadowsweet, panama sapogenins, interchemical zinc phenolsulfonate, gentian extracts, cucumber, walnut, Alban Muller Epilami mix. Preferred astringent agents according to the invention are scutellaria extract, ulmary extract, close-up queen extract, gentian extract, burdock extract and mixtures thereof. Aqueous Phase The composition may comprise an aqueous phase. The composition may comprise water in a content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, and preferably ranging from 40% to 70% by weight. The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water. The composition may further comprise an organic solvent which is miscible with water at room temperature (25 ° C.), especially chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1 -C4) alkyl ethers; ; and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an organic solvent which is miscible with water at ambient temperature, in particular a polyol, in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 5.5 to 7.5. Oily phase The cosmetic composition used in the process according to the invention may also comprise an oily phase. The cosmetic composition used in the process according to the invention may comprise both an aqueous phase and an oily phase. As oils that can be used in the composition used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oil, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor oil, of avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810", "812" and "818" by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, oil of shea butter; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, stearate of octyl-2-dodecyl, oety-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document 2-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and poly (methyl) phenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional Components The composition according to the invention may comprise an additional emulsifier other than the previously described hydrophobic carbamate group or ester inulin. As additional emulsifier, mention may be made of: oxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate; ethoxylated sodium ethyldiamido-n-cocoyl sulfonate (15 OE) or else the mixture of ethoxylated ethyldiamido-n-cocoyl sulfonate (15 OE), glyceryl stearate, glyceryl monitrate stearate, behenyl alcohol, such as that sold under the name Ceralution® H by the company Sasol); copolyal dimethicones, for example bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG-I6 / 16 dimethicone, such as that sold under the name Abil Care 85 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt. According to one embodiment of the composition used in the process according to the invention, the additional emulsifier is ethoxylated ethyldiamido-n-cocoyl sulfonate (15 OE), in particular the mixture of ethyldiarnido-n-cocoyl sulfonate. sodium ethoxylated (15 0E), glyceryl stearate, glyceryl monitrate stearate, behenyl alcohol, such as that sold under the name Ceralutione H by the company Sasol). According to one embodiment of the composition used in the process according to the invention, the additional emulsifier is a dimethicone copolyol, in particular bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG-16/16 dimethicone, such as that sold. under the name Abil Care 85 by the company Evonik Goldsclunidt. The additional emulsifier may be present in a composition used in the process of the invention in a proportion of from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight based on the weight total of the composition. The composition used in the process according to the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the field in question, such as emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UVA and / or UVB filters (organic or inorganic, soluble or insoluble), pigments, fibers, chelating agents, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, and other cosmetic active agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, and may for example vary from 0.01% to 30% of the total weight of the composition. In general, the quantities are adjusted according to the formulation produced. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules. Advantageously, the composition used in the process according to the invention may comprise a silicone elastomer. Examples of silicone elastomers are described in WO-A-2009/080958. DETAILED DESCRIPTION The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description of exemplary embodiments of devices useful for the invention and on the examination of the appended drawing, in which: FIG. Schematic representation in perspective of an example of a device used in a method according to the invention. FIG. 2 is a view from above of the device of FIG. 1, FIGS. 3 and 4 are views similar to FIGS. 1 and 2 of a variant of the device, FIGS. 5A and 5B illustrate the relative displacement of a With only one tuft of hair moving against the skin, FIGS. 6A, -B and 6C-D are half-face photographs of two subjects before and after treatment, and FIGS. 7, 8, 9A-B, 10A-B , 11-13 reproduce test results. Figures 1 and 2 show a device 1 that can be used in a method according to the invention, comprising a housing 3 carrying first and second contact elements in the form of concentric rows of tufts 50 of bristles, each composed of a plurality The device may further comprise a gripping portion connected to the housing, for example in the form of a handle. The user slowly moves the device over the surface of the skin to be treated, thereby massaging the surface of the skin. The oscillatory motion applied to the skin is of sufficiently high amplitude to massage the skin and improve the penetration and action of the composition, but low enough to minimize the stretching of collagen fibers in the skin. The contact elements of the illustrated example comprise two fixed concentric circular rows 51 of tuft of bristles and two concentric circular mobile rows 52, and optionally a fixed circular row 56 of tufts 50 of bristles between the two mobile rows 52. The rows Tufts of bristles move in rotation with the axis of rotation substantially perpendicular to the surface of the treated skin. FIGS. 3 and 4 illustrate a variant comprising two moving rows 52 and three fixed rows 51. In these two examples, the rows of tufts of bristles are surrounded by a fixed outer row 54. An unillustrated variant comprises a single fixed row of tufts of bristles and a single moving row, for example rotating in the same direction or animated by an oscillatory movement.

In another variant, the rows 51 and 52 are all movable relative to the housing 3 and move in opposite directions. The base of a tuft 50 may have a diameter Dt of between 40 and 100 mils. The tufts 50 have, for example, a diameter at the base of 60 mils for the tufts of the fixed and movable rows 51 and 52 located within the fixed outer row 54, the tufts of which have a base diameter of 80 mils. The bristles 55 may be made from any material suitable for contact with the skin, for example a polyamide. The diameter d1 of each hair 55 may be between 2 and 5 mils, and its length L, for example is between 0.6 and 1.5 cm. FIG. 5A illustrates the action of a single tuft 50 of bristles 55 against the surface of the skin S when the latter is at rest (neutral position), while FIG. 5B represents the tuft 50 when the relative displacement A of the Base 3 is at a maximum excursion. The relative deformation of the skin is indicated by the spacing of marks on a horizontal line. In FIG. 5A, the uniform spacing of the graduations indicates that there is no deformation of the skin when the bristles 55 are in the rest position. Figure 5B illustrates that the skin has been slightly compressed by the bristles in the direction of base movement, and stretched slightly behind the ends of the bristles. In normal operation, the tufts of hair exert a pressure on the skin and deform it, and there is relatively little sliding of the hair on the skin. At high amplitude, the bristles can also slide on the surface, especially if the device is used with lubrication elements. The device may optionally comprise a fluid supply structure positioned adjacent the contact elements, for example through a central orifice 60 as illustrated. The fluid may be the composition P or alternatively a lubricating fluid. The centripetal force tends to spread the fluid emitted on the hairs, creating a relatively uniform wetting. The fluid is contained by the outer row 54 of tufts of bristles.

Without departing from the scope of the invention, the rows of bristles described above may be replaced by other flexible members, for example a closed cell foam. The device may further comprise one or more oscillating motion control means, in particular as described in the application WO 2005/091748 of page 19, line 28 to page 20, line 29. The device may for example comprise a means for controlling the pressure applied to the skin and means for controlling the range of motion of the moving contact elements as a function of the pressure with which the contact elements are applied to the skin. The device may comprise delay means. The method may then comprise several vibratory action steps, performed for predetermined times on specific areas of the skin, in particular the face of a user. In a variant not shown, the first and second contact elements 15 comprise rectilinear rows of tufts of bristles, optionally surrounded by a fixed row of tufts of bristles. The created action is then a shearing action. EXAMPLE OF IMPLEMENTATION An oil-in-water emulsion facial care cream having the following composition is produced. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by weight: Example Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acid 13.4% is 30% acetic acid in a water / dipropylene glycol mixture (70/30 ) 4% MA Water Qsp 100 Polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked. (Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) 1,2 Inulin lauryl carbamate (Inutec SP1 from Beneo) 0.3 Sodium hyaluronate (CRISTALHYAL from Soliance) 0.2 hydroxyethyl cellulose (NATROSOL 250 BER from Aqualon) 0.15 Ethanol Mixture of bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG-16/16 dimethicone and caprylic / capric triglyceride (87/13) (Abil Care 85 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 2 mixture of organopolysiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane (13) / 87) (GRAN SIL RPS-D6 from Grant Industries) Poly dimethylsiloxane mixture alpha-omega dihydroxyl / poly dimethylsiloxane is; Dow Corning 1503 Fluid from DOW CORNING 2 Pentaerythritol 2-tetraoctanoate polymethylmethacrylate (Micropearl M 310 from Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku) 1.25 Smectite (Vanderbilt's Veegum) 2.0 Preservative qs One trial was conducted on 50 women Caucasian aged 39-60 years old ,. presenting different types of healthy skin with signs of aging of the visible skin, including: appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, dilation of loss of elasticity, non-uniform skin color, dullness.

Subjects had different skin types: 44% fat combination skin, 38% dry skin, 14% normal skin and 4% oily skin. Protocol The applications were carried out at home by the subjects. . Lo7s of the initial visit, before the start of the trial, a second evaluation. Clinical and clinical study was carried out on the quality of the skin and the apparent properties of the elderly to measure the advantages induced by the combination of the mechanical device. Penc net two weeks the subjects have put into action twice a day, every day, the following protocol: - clean their face with their usual cleaner, - then massage a half of the. face for 30 seconds using a brush-type device according to figures 1 and 2, CLARISONIC® brand "Sensitive" tip: the brush is moistened with hot water (tap water) and then used on a half-face , the face is then gently dried using a dry towel, - following the massage, apply manually on the entire face, including the eye contour, the composition of the above example for penetration complete.

A second clinical evaluation, instrumenuic and autoquestiolinaire is performed after two weeks. Results FIGS. 7, 8, 9A-B, 10A-B, 11-13 illustrate the results of the various evaluations carried out at the first visit and at the end of the tests, after 14 days. In the figures, the results relating to the half-screw treated with the post-massage position appear in the clear and the results only half treated with the dark enamel in the tables below. comparing the parameters of the skin between the two faces, the columns DO / TO concern the first evaluation before the start of the treatment, the columns D14 the second evaluation at the end of the treatment (day 14) and the columns A (D14 -DO) the variations noted.

I) Pore Size (Evaluated by Dermascprc Dermascore allows the visualization of certain skin characteristics according to the polarization of light, ie skin pores with parallel polarized light and skin color as well as the heterogeneities of the skin with crossed polarized light A seorage was performed by comparison with the images of an atlas The values of the Dermascore after 2 weeks of treatment were compared with the values of the Dermascore before treatment The results are illustrated in Figure 6.

Comparing the two treatments there is a markedly smaller decrease in pore size for the combination brush and composition treatment. 2) Glow of the complexion (glossy, alogic) The evaluation is carried out by an expert for each of the halves of the face, 15 with a notation on a scale from zero to nine. FIG. 7 illustrates the improvement in the brightness of the dyed by comparing for both treatments the brightness of the skin. It is noted that the improvement of the luminous and dull appearance of the skin is more significant for the treatment combining brush and composition. 3) Lot of skin area (a) Table 1 below No. 1 of the skin with the combined treatment (P ') C01.111. alone does not highlight any change koto raah.i. ie Chromas 1 is significant of the homogeneity r this parameter, the treatment by notable. Table 1: Analysis of "Icox" -homogeneity of pigmentation Brush + half-face composition Icox index DO / TO D14 Mean 16.86 standard deviation 3.39% var. Averages Composition only half-face D14 16.58 -2.50% 3.91 -5.98% 15.85 3.11 DO / TO 17.00 3.45 A - Difference (Di-DO) S- significant (p <0.05), NS- not significant (p> 0.05) Figures 6A and 6B compare the two half-faces of one of the trial subjects with composition alone, respectively combination treatment before treatment (DO / TO) and at the end (D14-). Figures 6C and 6D compare half-faces for another subject. 4) Assessment of skin breakdown. (Taken and software QUANTISQUA114) The following tables 2 and 2 show a significant decrease in the index of: .tuamation with the handset and with the composition only treatment.

Table 3 shows a significant decrease in the area occupied only for the treatment by coi. . Is alone. Table 2: Significant Desquamation Index (DI) (p <0..05) A - Difference (Di-DO) S- Half-face Brush + composition Half face Composition only Average standard deviation% var. Averages DO / TO 70.30 12.71 A (1314-D0 'OD / TO 6.11 (S) 70.92 11.46 11.60 -8.70% 64.19 12.28 D14 -10.76% 63.29 11.83 D14 Table 3: Area occupied by scales, mm2 Half-face brush + composition 'Half-face Composition only DO / TO D14A (D14-DO) DO / TO D14A (D14-DO) Average 123.59 121.57 -2.02 (NSj 124.27 121.59 -2.67 (S) standard deviation 7.74 9.00 8.00 6.21 8.86 9.44 Medium var / -1.63%. / -2.15% / A - Difference (Di-DO) S- significant (p <0.05) NS- not significant (p> 0.05) 5) Evaluation of the effect h y-at: (Cornéo In the measurements of the rate of hydroflation, the principle used is characterized by a difference with the amount of water produced by means of a filter. , 2 - rneum. The value has the eak: .- (81) is very r 1I:] ibfeLTSC..s artrcsr.IjcOS contained 1-1 (> 7). C 'u.nc - .. nc :: The sensor is very small, but it is very thin, and it is very thin, and the skin is in contact with the skin of the circuit. JUC °; e, stra Turning the corneum and the tick between the two The apparatus ages the capacitance corrects :. : is hydrated. Rs of hydration rate in urtritur Table 4: Analysis of hydration Brush + composition Composition only half-face half-face DO / TO D14A (D14-DO) DO / TO D14 .A ( D14-DO) 56.21 60.00 3.79 (D) 55.67 59.63 3.95 (D) 10.37 8.50 7.46 9.94 9.75 6.66 / 6.74% i / 7.10% The brush produces a slight desquamating effect which helps to preserve the hydrated state of the skin. 6) U.vahul; biornecaniou characteristics, (by Cutometer) The Cutorneter measures the deformation of a cutaneous area subjected to a mechanical stress of suction and its power of recovery. The analysis of the measurements made is limited to the elastic domain and makes it possible to evaluate the effect of the cosmetic products on the viscoelastic properties of the skin. The following rheological parameters are measured: Ue: immediate elongation (purely elastic component) (mm) - Uv: delayed elongation (viscoelastic component) (mm) - Ur: immediate retraction (elastic return) (mm) - Uf: final elongation (total deformation: elastic + viscoelastic) (mm). The following biomechanical parameters can then be analyzed: - Tension: if the total elongation (Ut) decreases, the skin is more tense. - Firmness: if the -report (Ur / Ue: biological extensibility) becomes close to 1 then the skin is firmer. - Tonicity: if the residual elongation (R) then decreases the skin is more toned. - - Flexibility: if the immediate elongation (Ue) increases then the skin is more flexible. Mean standard deviation var. Averages d - Difference (Di-DO) S- significant (p <0.05) Table 5: Analysis of the parameters of the Cutometer 7) Self-evaluation of the anti-aging effect Self-evaluation questionnaires were distributed to the group of users . Figures 9A and 9B illustrate the effect on the pores of the skin. Figure 9A shows the percentage of users who had noticed an improvement in pore tightening (a), a decrease in pore visibility (b) and a reduction in pores (e). Brush ± Composition Half-face -. parametres Composition only half-face p Ut final elongation (total deformation: elastic + visco-elastic) 0.01 ± 0.06 0.377 (NS) 0.01 ± 0.05 0.067 (LSI) Ue: immediate elongation (purely elastic component) 0.00 + 0.05 0.946 (NS ) 0.01 ± 0.05 0.389 (NS) Ur Immediate retraction (springback, tonicity) 0.0072 ± 0.023 0.030 '(S 0.0135.:i..0.0.0.001 (s1' Uv delayed elongation (viscoelastic component) 0'x. : 1. ± 0.02 1 ± 0 t) 0.003 (SI ') «01 + 0.02 0. 01 (If' Ur / Ue (net elasticity) Uv / Ue (viscoelastic and elastic component ratio) 0.00i (s1) 0.062 (LSI ') 0_001 (s1) 0.04 + 0.08 0.04 ± 0.16 0.05 = 0.11 0.02 + 0.16 0.347 (NS) Ur / Uf (immediate retraction report recovery on complete deformation) 0.02z', 0.05 0.012 (St) 0: 03- 0 06.001 (if) increase 1- decrease S- significant (p <0.05) NS- not significant (p> 0.05) LS significant limit: Figure 9B illustrates self-assessment at the end of treatment as a percentage of d users having con improved skin texture (a), pore tightening (b), and decreased pore visibility (c). Users noted the effectiveness of both treatments in terms of skin smoothness (a), softness (b), hydration (c), healthy appearance (d) and freshness of the complexion (e) after the first treatment as shown in Figure 10A giving the percentage of users finding improvement. Figure 10 B shows the percentage that found improvement at the end of treatment for smoothness (a), smoothness (b), comfort (c), and healthy appearance (d).

Figure 11 illustrates the improvement observed at the end of treatment on the condition of the skin: the homogeneity (a), less dull (b), radiant complexion (c) and radiant skin (d). Figure 12 illustrates the improvement in firmness and hydration after 14 days: hydration (a), elasticity (b) and firmness (e). Figure 13 shows the satisfaction of the group of users (in%) of the combined treatment in terms of effectiveness of the anti-aging effect (a), innovative concept (b), better penetration of the composition (e), exfoliation (d), skin preparation (e), feeling of well-being (f), respect of the skin (g), non-irritating (h). The percentage of users who have noticed improvement is significantly higher at the end of treatment.

In both evaluations we note a greater satisfaction for the combined c. -tif and composition. The first '.11.J. dl: Flairs, filled just after the first implementation of the neuron 15 minutes later) showed an arnélion perceived perception of the smooth appearance of the skin (76%), its. 94% softness), complexion radiance (42%), regularity of hydration (74%) for the same use of the device - After 2 weeks of uni sato, the users noticed a year : ':': significant deterioration of skin firmness (68%), desquamation rate and homogeneity of color (76%), radiance of complexion - and hydration (66%) for The use of the device in combination with the composition has been found, clinically and according to the tests of the invention, globally effective in its rejuvenating effect on the composition alone, in particular on the pore size, radiance of complexion, smooth appearance and. softness of the skin, hydration appearance homogeneity. The invention is not limited to a device in which the contact elements are driven by an oscillatory movement. For example, as indicated above, the movement of the contact elements may be a rotational movement alone. The expression "comprising one" must be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one".

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic treatment method, non-therapeutic, comprising the steps of: a) subjecting the skin to a mechanical action, in particular obtained by means of a device (1) comprising first and second adjacent contact elements, movable the one with respect to the other, preferably with an oscillatory movement, and in contact with the skin, b) proceed, before, during and / or after step a) to the application on the skin of a cosmetic composition (P) comprising an agent for reducing the visibility of the pore size and / or improving the shine. 2. Method according to claim 1, wherein the composition (P) comprises, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion: a compound of formula (I) according to: OH (I) in which: R1 represents a COOR3 radical, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts; an inulin with hydrophobic groups chosen from C4-C32 alkyl carbamate or C4-C32 alkyl ester groups; an oily phase and an aqueous phase. 3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the compound of formula (I) is such that R1 denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe, -COO-CH2-CH3, -COO CH2-CH (OH). -CH2OH, -COOCH2-C112-CH1OH, -COOCH2-CH (OH) -CH3; - R2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 6 carbon atoms. 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid. 5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (I) is present in a content of from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 1, 5% to 5% by weight. The process of any of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic groups of the inulin are selected from C10-C18 alkyl carbamate or C10-C18 alkyl ester. 7. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises a lauryl carbamate inulin. 8. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic group inulin is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 2.5% by weight. 20 9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising before the steps a) and b) the cleaning of the skin with a cleaning composition (P '), different from the composition (P), 10. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, the mechanical action being exerted using at least one contact element, driven by an oscillation movement, linear or rotating, or a movement of rotation, and preferably with a row of tufts of hair animated by such oscillatory movement or rotation. 11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the oscillatory movement being of frequency between 20 Hz and 1 kHz, or between 80 and 200 Hz. 12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the contact elements (10, 20) each comprise at least one row (51, 52) of tufts (50) of bristles (55), including concentric rows. 13. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the rows (5, 52) of tuft of bristles comprise an alternation of a plurality of first and second circular rows, the first movable (51) in a first direction relative to a box (3) of the device (1) and the second (52) fixed or moving in the opposite direction relative to said housing (3). 14. Method according to the preceding claim, the rows (51, 52, 54) of 10 tufts of bristles further comprising an outer row (54) of tufts of bristles, fixed relative to the housing (3) of the device and arranged around the plurality of circular rows (51, 52). 15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the device also comprising a plurality of fixed contact elements, in particular in the form of a row of tufts of bristles.