FR2989000A1 - TOTAL GRAPE ASSAY AND PROCESS FOR PREPARING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition based on grape active ingredients comprising the following steps: a) selecting grape berries, b) sorting and removing the altered grains, c) concentrating the berries by controlled drying selected to eliminate a portion of the constituent water of the pulp by bringing them to a temperature between 40 and 60 ° C, under ventilation, for a limited time, d) to grind the berries into fine particles, without raising the temperature in order to obtain a micro-milled gel, e) dilute the gel obtained in the preceding step by addition of glycerol so as to return to the concentration of constituents of the berries as it exists in the initial grain. A cosmetic composition obtained at the end of this process as well as the use for topical applications in the field of cosmetics are also claimed.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates more particularly to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition based on grape actives. A cosmetic composition obtained according to this process as well as the use for topical applications of such a composition are also objects of the present invention.

The vine is known since the most remote times. It is widely cultivated in the world, especially in the Mediterranean regions, for the production of wine. Many products derived from the vine are used by humans. The vine leaves rich in polyphenols, anthocyanins and tannins, allow a beneficial action on the venous circulation. "Vine crying" refers to the sap flowing from the branches when they are pruned in April, this sap is used for the treatment of skin conditions. Extracts of shoots and seeds have interesting polyphenols for cosmetic use. Grape juice, rich in sugars (15 to 25%), mineral salts (phosphate, calcium, magnesium, potassium), vitamins, trace elements, water (70 to 80%) is used in dietetics, especially for its nutritional power, that either in natural form or in the form of syrup by evaporation of the juice. Grape seeds represent a source of oil (1 liter per 100 kg) rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids of food interest mainly, polyphenols whose extracts are used by "Caudalie®". Grapes are the noble part of the vine; harvested before maturity, they provide an acid syrup and astringent called verjuice. At maturity, they are a popular food with high energy. Grape juice extract is used in cosmetology for the presence of tannins, vitamins, acids that give it exfoliating, soft, lightening and protective properties. Raisins obtained by drying in the sun or in dehydration tunnels at 70 ° C for 24 to 48 hours undergo a color change due to the oxidation of polyphenols and are used in cooking and confectionery.

Many products derived from the vine, each having a food or cosmetic interest, related to the presence of an isolated active component, or a fraction only of the active constituents of the grape. But no product exists at the moment, gathering all the assets present in the grape berry, this because of the phenomena of deterioration or the difficulties of conservation resulting from the processes and the usual techniques implemented to formulate such products . There is therefore a need not yet satisfied to prepare a composition that makes it possible to collect all the active ingredients associated with grape berries for a cosmetic application, in order to benefit from all the advantageous properties of the grapes. constituents of grape berries, without any alteration or loss of these One of the objectives of the present invention responds to this need by proposing to make from grape berries a new composition containing all the molecules constituting the film, the pulp, the juice and the grape berry grain, considered as a complex and coherent whole. The composition which is the subject of the present invention, which can be described as "total active ingredient" of the grape seed, has properties superior to those of its separated constituents by synergistic action. It brings together, among others, the most important assets contained in film and glitches in particular. It therefore contains all the natural active ingredients of the grapes, without transformation, without fractionation or alteration and in the same proportions as the native grain. This objective is achieved, surprisingly in the context of the present invention, by the development of a process. combining several physical operations performed under controlled conditions to avoid color changes and oxidation reactions causing the alteration of certain constituents of grapes and the loss of their activity. More specifically, the present invention provides a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition based on grape actives comprising the following steps: a) selecting grape berries, b) sorting and removing altered grains, c) concentrate by controlled drying the selected berries in order to eliminate a part of the constitutive water of the pulp by bringing them to a temperature between 40 and 60 ° C, under ventilation, for a limited duration, d) to grind the berries into fines particles, without temperature rise, in order to obtain a micro-milled gel, e) diluting the gel obtained in the preceding step by addition of glycerol so as to return to the concentration of the constituents of the berries as it exists in the initial grain .

During the first step of the process according to the invention, the grape berries are selected by picking grapes from vine plants and destemming them so as to isolate grape berries from the stalk. This first step can be carried out indifferently manually or mechanically. The clusters can be collected from vines generally belonging to the species Vitis vinifera with the variety of grape varieties specific to this species, whether red or white, whatever the variety. In a particular way, we prefer the sub-hope Vitis vinifera vinifera. In a second step, during step b) of the method that is the subject of the present invention, the grape berries are sorted so as to eliminate the damaged grains, that is to say the grains damaged during the first stage, grains showing signs of disease, immature grains or rotting grains. The objective of this step is of course to select the perfectly healthy and intact grapes, potentially presenting the richest and most preserved assets for the rest of the process.

During step c) according to the invention, the grapes selected and sorted are subjected to drying in order to eliminate a part of the water contained, in particular, in the pulp, but more generally in the whole berries. The purpose of this step is to obtain a concentration of the total assets present in the berries by evaporation of the water they contain. Advantageously, the water content of the berries is reduced during this step by 20 to 60% of the initial weight of the berries, and preferably between 40 and 50% of the initial weight of the berries, in order to obtain a concentration in active ingredients. the most optimal for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the method object of the present invention.

One of the essential points of the invention lies in the preservation, in both quantitative and qualitative terms, of the active ingredients contained in the berries. For this purpose, the grapes are placed during this step in moderate temperature conditions, 5 to obtain evaporation of the water contained in the berries while preserving the assets of interests present in them and avoiding any denaturation likely to alter the properties of these assets. Suitable moderate temperature conditions in the process according to the present invention are between 40 and 60 ° C. Preferably, the drying temperatures used in step c) according to the present invention are between 50 and 55 ° C. In order to respect such moderate temperatures and to obtain evaporation within a limited time, it is necessary to carry out this drying step according to the invention in a place or a ventilated enclosure so as to facilitate the drying of the grapes. The temperatures used during this step also depend on the time taken to dry the berries. The purpose of the process according to the invention being to preserve as much as possible the natural active ingredients contained in the grape berries, it is important to optimally limit the exposure of the grapes to high temperatures. Conveniently, the higher the temperatures (within the range of the above-mentioned temperature ranges), the shorter the drying time corresponding to step c) of the present invention. In general, a satisfactory concentration of the active ingredients is obtained while preserving their properties by using, for the drying, temperatures such as previously exposed, with a duration of between 4 and 10 hours, depending on the intensity of the temperatures used. Preferably, the duration of step c) according to the present invention can be limited to 5 to 8 hours. At the end of this step, we obtain berries of grapes retaining their natural color and containing all the assets of the native berry without denaturation at a concentration of up to more than twice the initial concentration. During step d), the berries are finely ground by a suitable mechanical process, without temperature rise likely to degrade certain assets. Advantageously, the berries are crushed into particles having a size of less than 10 micrometers. This result can be obtained by any mechanical means such as turbo-mixer, attrition mill, or sonicator, for example. These latter processes give satisfactory results since they make it possible to grind very finely all the parts of the grain (film, pulp, etc ...) and also the sclerous integuments of the seeds, thus freeing all the molecules present in the different structures constituents the berries. The microbridge gel obtained in the preceding step is then diluted in glycerol to a level of approximately 20 to 60% by total weight of composition, preferably 40 to 50% by total weight of composition, depending on the percentage of water evaporated. during step c), so as to return to the concentration of berry constituents as it exists in the initial grain. Glycerol thus replaces quantitatively the water removed during the drying step.

Glycerol, by its particular properties, helps to solubilize the assets and protect them from alterations that may occur over time. It also reduces the risk of microbial and fungal growth. This ingredient promotes hydration and facilitates implementation under different types of galenic formulations.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition based on grape actives obtained at the end of the process as described above, said cosmetic composition having exceptional properties in that it constitutes a complex whole forming a whole and combining all the natural assets present in the grape berries in a form preserved in terms of the quantity of assets and in terms of the quality of these assets. The composition according to the invention thus encompasses all the molecules described in grape seeds, such as carbohydrates, proteins, lipids, minerals, organic acids, vitamins and particularly phenolic compounds, among which mention may be made of anthocyanins, initially located in the film, flavonols and their oligomers, condensed tannins (proanthocyanidols) such as catechins, epicatechins contained mainly in pips. This composition may vary according to the variety or grape variety of the grape vine, whether red or white.

The composition according to the invention advantageously has 20 to 60% glycerol by total weight of composition, preferably 40 to 50% by total weight of composition, so as to have the best possible combination between active cosmetic properties derived from grape berries and formulation of practical use in terms of texture, stability and preservation, etc ... Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise additives chosen from dyes, moisturizers, lubricants, solvents, emulsifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, etc. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in any form, in particular in the form of cream, lotion, mask, gel or serum. It is advantageously used primarily for topical applications in the field of cosmetics. It can also be used as an active ingredient incorporated in conventional cosmetic vehicles. The properties of the composition according to the invention are particularly interesting from the cosmetic point of view. It indeed allows hydration and smoothing of the skin, especially because of the presence of organic acids, sugars and mucilages it contains in preserved form. It has on the one hand a lightening, refreshing, moisturizing and nourishing action under the effect of these same compounds. On the other hand an antiradical action is also obtained, thanks to the antioxidant properties of the phenolic compounds, resulting in a delay of skin aging. It also allows activation of collagen and elastin synthesis. It also has a stimulating action on capillary microcirculation. The following examples illustrate the invention in order to better show the characteristics and advantages, without in any way reducing the scope. EXAMPLES 1-Process for preparing a cosmetic composition based on grape actives according to the invention: 20 kg of grape berries are picked and sorted in order to select the healthiest grains.

The selected grains are placed in a ventilated enclosure at 50 ° C. for 6 hours, so as to obtain a weight loss of 48% relative to the initial weight of these grains. The loss of weight is regularly controlled by weighing grains during drying. This loss of weight corresponds to the evaporation of the water contained in the pulp of grape berries.

The grapes thus concentrated are then milled in the mixer to obtain fine particles smaller than 10 microns. The gel resulting from this grinding is diluted by addition of glycerol at a rate of 48% by total weight of composition, so as to return to the initial concentration of the active ingredients present in the berries. An additional micromilling step by sonication can be performed by cooling the circuit to prevent the temperature from exceeding 50 ° C. The grape stock obtained at the end of this process has all the active ingredients contained in the native berries of grapes, in proportions such as those of the initial grain. 2. Moisturizing Cream Based on Grape Active Ingredients According to the Invention A moisturizing cream is formulated according to the invention after obtaining an emulsion resulting from mixing at the appropriate temperature and in the desired proportions of an oily phase and an aqueous phase. The total grape active ingredient as obtained at the end of the process described in Example 1 is introduced into this emulsion at a rate of 3% by total weight of the moisturizing cream during the cooling of the emulsion when the temperature is less than 50 ° C.

Preservatives and dyes are added in the proportions that one skilled in the art masters to formulate a commercially attractive moisturizer. 3-Night Revitalizing Cream Based on Grape Active Ingredients According to the Invention A night revitalizing cream is formulated according to the invention after obtaining an emulsion resulting from mixing at the appropriate temperature and in the desired proportions of a phase oily and an aqueous phase. The total grape stock as obtained at the end of the process described in Example 1 is introduced into this emulsion at a rate of 6% by total weight of the revitalizing night cream during the cooling of the emulsion when the temperature is below 50 ° C.

Preservatives and dyes are added in the proportions that one skilled in the art masters to formulate a commercially attractive nighttime revitalizing cream.

Claims (1)

CLAIMS 1-A process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition based on grape active ingredients characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) selecting grape berries, b) sorting and removing altered grains, c) concentrating by controlled drying the berries selected to remove a portion of the constituent water of the pulp by bringing them to a temperature of between 40 and 60 ° C, 10 under ventilation, for a limited time, d) grind the berries into fine particles , without raising the temperature, in order to obtain a micro-milled gel, e) diluting the gel obtained in the preceding step by addition of glycerol so as to return to the concentration of the constituents of the berries as it exists in the initial grain. 15 2-Process according to claim 1, characterized in that during step c), the water content of the berries is reduced from 20 to 60% of the initial weight. 3-Process according to claim 1, characterized in that during step c), the water content of the berries is reduced from 40 to 50% of the initial weight. 4-Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that during step c), the temperature is between 50 and 55 ° C. 25 5-Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the drying carried out during step c) is carried out over a period of between 4 and 10 hours. 6-Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that during step d), the berries are crushed into particles of size less than 10 micrometers. 7-process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that during step d), the berries are crushed by mechanical means such as turbo-mixer, attrition mill, or sonicator. 8-cosmetic composition obtained according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises 20 to 60% glycerol by total weight of composition. 9-cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it further comprises additives selected from dyes, moisturizers, lubricants, solvents, emulsifiers, stabilizers, preservatives. 10-cosmetic composition according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that it is in the form of cream, lotion, mask, gel or serum. 15 11-Use of a composition according to one of claims 8 to 10 for topical applications in the field of cosmetics.