FR2984141A1 - Anhydrous cosmetic product e.g. lipstick, useful for making up and/or caring for lips, comprises first composition, which is solid and transparent composition, and second composition, which is solid and non-transparent composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Anhydrous cosmetic product in the form of stick, comprises a first composition, and a second composition, which is different from the first composition, where: the first composition is solid and transparent composition and includes a first fatty phase and a structuring agent of the first fatty phase; the second composition is solid and non-transparent composition and includes a second fatty phase, a structuring agent of the second fatty phase and a colorant whose amount is greater than the first composition; and the first and second fatty phases comprise same structuring agents.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of human keratin materials and more particularly the lips. The development of formulations dedicated to makeup and / or care of the lips, with satisfactory properties in terms of application, comfort, hold and coverage, but also in terms of makeup effect, such as for example the shine, is a permanent goal. As for the lips, the lipstick, appeared at the beginning of the last century, has today prevailed and is recognized by users as the mode of application plebiscite makeup of their lips. This mode of application offers users a choice in terms of lip coverage and color diversity. Of course, this dosage form must also meet the requirements of a mechanical part to ensure the sliding and holding of the stick during application and prevent it from breaking and secondly , transfer qualities to ensure a comfortable application and a sufficient deposit and good quality on the lips.

However, it is known that a certain number of ingredients likely to bring advantageous characteristics to the product, in terms of structuring of the composition for example, such as waxes, may adversely affect the makeup effect, especially shine. In terms of sensory qualities, users note that the compositions comprising a high level of waxes often lead to a thick, non-slippery deposit and to a "waxy" waxy feeling that can be attributed to the presence of waxes and pastes. The search for a compromise between the provision of brightness and the preservation of stick stability is therefore one of the problems in the preparation of such makeup compositions and / or care of the lips.

In addition, users are always looking for products with aesthetically pleasing visual appearance. In particular, the sticks, at least partly transparent, meet this expectation. Transparent sticks must not contain a large amount of coloring agents to remain transparent. In the context of the present invention, the inventors have advantageously proposed to combine a concentrated core of coloring agents and a transparent bark.

This dual-pour system can be a core-bark or even overlapping slices. The problem at the origin of the present invention was to obtain a skin care and / or makeup composition and / or anhydrous and at least partly transparent that does not have the disadvantages mentioned above attached to the compositions based on waxes. The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs. The inventors have found that a product having a double architecture, namely a transparent texture transparent sheath or bark comprising at least one polyamide resin and at least one particular gelling system, surrounding a solid, non-transparent core, of composition at least slightly different from the sheath, was satisfactory in these terms. Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic product, in particular in the form of a stick comprising, preferably formed of a first composition and a second composition different from the first composition, in which: the first composition is solid, transparent and comprises - at least one first fatty phase, - at least one structuring agent of the first fatty phase and - the second composition is advantageously solid, advantageously non-transparent, comprises a second fatty phase, at least one structuring agent of the second fatty phase and at least one dyestuff in a higher content than that of the first composition, said first and second fatty phases comprising the same structuring agent (s). Advantageously, the second composition comprises the same ingredients as the first composition, for each ingredient the weight ratio of the content in the second composition to the content in the first composition ranges from 0.9 / 1 to 1.1 / 1. and the second composition comprises at least one dyestuff at a level greater than that of the first composition.

By "the same structuring agent (s)" is meant the same structuring system, namely one or more gelling agents and / or one or more polyamide resins, preferably several gelling agents and a polyamide resin. . Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the structuring agent (s) of the first fatty phase and / or the structuring agent (s) of the second fatty phase comprise (s) a polyamide resin. . Advantageously, the first fatty phase and / or the second fatty phase contains a gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamides with linear low molecular weight alkyl chain, in particular chosen from dialkyl (C2 -C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cg to C22 alkyl chain with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a low molecular weight branched alkyl chain, in particular chosen from dialkyl (C2- C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cg to C22 alkyl chain.

According to a second aspect, the invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic product, in particular in the form of a stick, comprising, preferably, a first composition and a second composition different from the first composition, in which: the first composition is solid, transparent and comprises: - a fatty phase, - at least one polyamide resin and - at least one gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamides with linear low molecular weight alkyl chain, in particular chosen from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cg to C22 alkyl chain with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamides with a low molecular weight branched alkyl chain, in particular selected from dialkyl (C2-C6) nacylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched chain Cg to C22 alkyl and preferably with a solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two low molecular weight lipophilic gelling agents, and the second composition is advantageously solid, advantageously non-transparent and comprises a fatty phase, the said second composition advantageously comprising a coloring matter in a higher content. to that of the first composition.

Preferably the first composition forms a bark for the second composition forming the core. In the context of the present invention, we will name the internal part: "heart" or "core composition", and the outer part: "sheath", "sheath composition", "bark" or "bark composition" indifferently.

Moreover, when it comes to the "product" or the "composition", it is meant the overall composition comprising the core composition and the bark composition. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" is understood to mean "gelling of oils". According to another of its objects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of the lips comprising at least one step of applying thereon a product according to the present invention. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the method is a makeup process. Thus, the invention advantageously relates to products in the form of sticks having a core-sheath type structure (also conventionally called "core-shell") which comprises two parts of different composition arranged relative to one another so as to concentric, that is to say so as to form a heart (inner part) surrounded by a sheath (outer part) along its vertical axis. By "different composition" is meant that the core composition and the sheath composition comprise at least one different compound (ingredient) or at least one compound present in a different amount. In particular, under the term "two parts of different compositions", it is intended to cover a product in which the only difference between the core composition and the bark composition lies in the fact that the content of coloring agents of the core is greater than that of the bark composition, preferably the bark composition does not comprise dye agent (s) and the core composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight of dye agent (s) is the bark composition comprises at least one coloring agent, then the weight ratio of the dye (s) in the core to the coloring agent (s) in the bark is greater than 1.1 / 1. Accordingly, according to a first variant of the In the invention, the core composition and the bark composition differ only in the higher content of coloring matter in the core composition, therefore the other compounds or ingredients of the core composition are the same as those of the bark composition. equation, the core composition comprises: - a fatty phase, - at least one polyamide resin, and - at least one gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamides with linear low-alkyl chain molecular, especially chosen from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cg to C22 alkyl chain with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamides with a low molecular weight branched alkyl chain , especially chosen from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cg to C22 alkyl chain and preferably with a solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two low molecular weight lipophilic gelling agents and at least one dyestuff in a content greater than that of the bark composition.

Advantageously, the second composition, preferably a core composition, comprises the same compounds or ingredients as the first composition, preferably a bark composition. For each ingredient, the weight ratio of the content in the second composition to the content in the first composition ranges from 0.9 / 1 to 1.1 / 1 and the second composition comprises at least one dyestuff in a content greater than that of the first composition. According to a second variant of the invention, the core composition comprises compounds or ingredients different from those of the bark composition, or else comprises the same compounds as those of the bark composition, but in different amounts.

In particular, according to this second variant, the core composition may comprise waxes, pasty fatty substances.The products considered according to the invention are to distinguish capsules, inclusions, flakes in which a first composition coats the entirety of a second composition that forms the heart of the capsule. The product according to the invention has the advantage of being both solid and having a transparent bark.

Because of their transparent bark, these products are very visually satisfying, in addition they have adequate stability and hardness. They are also characterized by ease of application such as a good slippery, good disintegration application and a soft texture, creamy close to that of a balm. The product according to the invention is distinguished by its performance in terms of makeup result and in particular the holding of the color and the brightness of the deposit as well as its mechanical properties: the stick is sufficiently rigid and solid, does not break during of the application and thus is compatible with rod packaging or other solid form and with frictional application to the surface to be treated and / or makeup. Advantageously, the product according to the invention does not contain waxes.

In the remainder of the present description, other objects, aspects, properties and advantages of the present invention are presented. The term "anhydrous product" means a product containing less than 5% by weight, preferably 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the product and in particular free of water. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may in particular be brought by ingredients of the core compositions and / or bark which may contain residual amounts. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" means a composition whose hardness is greater than 25 Nm-1 at the temperature of 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

In particular, such a composition is incapable of flowing under the action of a dispensing means exerting a thrust on this product. In practice, the viscosity of products in the solid or pasty form is preferably greater than 17 Pa · s. HARDNESS PARAMETER The core and bark compositions considered according to the invention are solid at ambient temperature (20 ° C.). The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists in cutting a stick of a composition whose thickness, preferably cylindrical of revolution, is to be determined using a tungsten rigid wire diameter 250 iam by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by the wire on the stick at 20 ° C., this force being measured by means of a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from Indelco-Chatillon. The measurement is repeated three times and averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter in meters. The hardness is converted by the equation below: (Yx 10-3 x9.8) / L For a measurement at a different temperature, the entire stick is heated to the temperature at which the hardness is to be measured. In general and in the absence of mention to the contrary, the hardness of the compositions is defined at a temperature of 20 ° C. As indicated above, the compositions of the product according to the invention are in solid form and have a hardness greater than 25 Nm-1 at the temperature of 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Preferably, according to the method described above, the hardness at 20 ° C of the product according to the invention is greater than 60 Nm-1 especially greater than 70 Nm-1, preferably greater than 80 Nm-1. Preferably, the product according to the invention has in particular a hardness at 20 ° C of less than 500 Nm-1, especially less than 400 Nm-1, preferably less than 300 Nm-1.

Preferably, the hardness at 20 ° C of the product is between 80 Nm-1 and 200 Nm-1. When the product is in the form of a stick, the outer surface may be defined as the end thereof, which is applied to the lips or the skin. This may for example be shaped bevel.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition is in the form of a rod, in particular with a diameter greater than or equal to 8 mm, preferably between 8 mm and 12.7 mm.

According to yet another embodiment, the composition is a lipstick. The core and bark compositions are advantageously characterized by hardnesses as defined below.

The product of the invention is cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, ie contains a physiologically acceptable medium which is non-toxic and can be applied to the lips of humans. By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant in the sense of the invention a product of appearance, smell and pleasant touch, suitable for use in cosmetics.

According to one embodiment, the product according to the invention is such that the weight ratio of bark composition / core composition varies from 0.1 to 5, and preferably from 0.5 to 3. Advantageously, these compositions have a shear value ranging from from 80 to 120gF, preferably from 90 to 120 Gf. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in a conventional packaging that does not require a means of supporting the composition. The bark composition is transparent. For the purposes of the invention, the term "transparent composition" is intended to mean a composition which transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm without diffusing it, that is to say a composition in which The diffraction angle of the light is less than 5 ° better is about 0 °. The transparent composition can transmit at least 50%, especially at least 60%, especially at least 70% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm. The measurement of the transmission is carried out with a UV-visible spectrophotometer Cary 300 Scan from Varian according to the following protocol: The composition is cast in a square-section spectrophotometer tank whose side has a length of 10 mm. - The sample of the composition is then maintained in a thermostatically controlled chamber at 20 ° C for 24 hours. The transmitted light is then measured through the sample of the spectrophotometer composition by scanning wavelengths ranging from 700 nm to 800 nm, the measurement being made in transmission mode. The percentage of light transmitted through the sample of the composition at the wavelength of 750 nm is then determined. The transparent compositions, when placed at 0.01 m in front of a black line of thickness 2 mm in diameter traced on a white sheet, show this feature; by contrast, an opaque or non-transparent composition would not allow it. In contrast, the heart composition is not transparent. In a particular embodiment, the bark composition according to the invention is colorless.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "colorless composition" is intended to mean that the composition absorbs light outside the range of the visible range outside the wavelength range of between 400 and 700 nm, advantageously between 380 and 780. nm. The bark composition may also be slightly colored, in this case it contains at most 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one pigment or dye, the pigment may be organic or inorganic. The organic pigments can be chosen from the following materials and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluoran dyes, - organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane dyes, fluoran, these dyes may comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of those known under the following names: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10, D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6. Lacquer can be supported by an organic carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example.

Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of the following denominations: D & C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Potassium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 8 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 10 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 19 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 21 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 21 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 22 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 27 Barium Lake , D & C Red # 27 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 27 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 28 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 30 Lake, D & C Red # 31 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 33 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 34 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 36 Lake, D & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake, D & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, D & C Green # 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Orange # 10 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 17 Barium Lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 10 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 4 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned above are mentioned in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association. The contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

The composition may also contain nacres or fillers, in a concentration such that it does not cause the loss of transparency of the bark. These nacres and fillers are defined below. Ideally, the nacre concentration is between 0.01 and 0.5%, preferably between 0.05 and 0.2% relative to the total weight of the formula.

STRUCTURING AGENT OF THE BARK The bark composition comprises at least one polyamide resin and at least one gelling system comprising at least two lipophilic gelling agents, also called "organogelators", as structuring agents and of the fatty phase.

ORGANOGELATOR: According to the invention, "an organogelling agent" is defined here as comprising an organic compound whose molecules may be capable of establishing, between them, at least one physical interaction leading to a self-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a three-dimensional macromolecular network which may be responsible for the gelation of the liquid fatty phase. The network can result from the formation of a network of fibrils (due to the stacking or aggregation of organic gelling molecules), immobilizing the molecules of the liquid fatty phase. Depending on the nature of the organogelator, the interconnected fibrils have varying dimensions that can range from a few nanometers to 1 micron or even several micrometers. These fibrils may occasionally combine to form ribbons or columns. The term "gelling" means a structuring, or more generally a thickening of the medium which can lead according to the invention to a fluid consistency to pasty or solid.

The ability to form this network of fibrils, and thus the gelling of the composition, depends on the nature (or chemical category) of the organogelling agent, the nature of the substituents carried by its molecules for a given chemical category, and the nature of the liquid fatty phase. For example, this gelation is reversible under the action of an external stimulus such as temperature. Physical interactions are diverse but may include co-crystallization. These physical interactions are, for example, interactions selected from hydrogen interactions, 7C interactions between unsaturated rings, dipolar interactions, and coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives. The establishment of these interactions can often be favored by the architecture of the molecule, for example by nuclei, unsaturations, and the presence of asymmetric carbon. In general, each molecule of an organogelator can establish several types of physical interaction with a neighboring molecule. Thus, in one embodiment, the molecules of the organogelator according to the invention may comprise at least one group capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, for example at least two groups capable of establishing a hydrogen bond; at least one aromatic ring, for example at least two aromatic rings; at least one bond with ethylenic unsaturation; and / or at least one asymmetric carbon. The groups capable of forming a hydrogen bond may be selected, for example, from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, benzyl, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups.

Organogelators of the bark composition may be solid or liquid at room temperature (20 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure. Among the lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of combinations of at least one dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a linear low molecular weight alkyl chain, especially chosen from dialkyl (C 2 -C 6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises an alkyl chain. linear C 6 to C 22 such as dibutylamide of lauroylglutamic acid (or "dibutyl lauroyl glutamide"), with at least one dialkyl N-acylglutamide branched alkyl chain of low molecular weight, especially selected from dialkyl (C2-C6) Nacylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cg to C22 alkyl chain such as dibutylamide of N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid (or "dibutylethylhexanoyl glutamide) and preferably with a solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two lipophilic gelling agents of low molecular weight. Preferably, the dialkyl N-acylglutamide with linear alkyl chain is used in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5% and more preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight per ratio to the total weight of the fat phase.

Preferably, the branched alkyl chain dialkyl N-acylglutamide is used in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5%, more preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight per ratio to the total weight of the fat phase. More preferably, the total amount of the lipophilic gelling agents of the 5 'dialkyl N-acylglutamides type is preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. The lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide is sold or manufactured by AJINOMOTO under the name GP-1 by INCI name: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and the N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid dibutylamide is sold or manufactured by the company AJINOMOTO. under the name EB-21, INCI name: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide. Such a compound is described in JP2005-298635. According to a preferred variant, the ratio of low molecular weight dialkyl N-acylglutamide to low molecular weight linear: dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a low molecular weight branched chain is between 0.1: 1 and 3: 1, preferably between 1: 1 and 2.5: 1 and most preferably between 1.7: 1 or 2: 1 and advantageously between 1.5: 1 or 2: 1. The solvent capable of forming hydrogenated bonds with lipophilic gelling agents is a practical solvent, preferably chosen for example from alcohols, monoalcohols, dialcohols, acids and esters. Preferably, the solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds between the lipophilic gelling agents is selected from C 2 -C 5 glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycols and pentene glycols. This solvent may also be chosen octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol. The amount of solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds ranges from 3 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40%, more preferably from 7 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. Preferably, the solvent is a fatty alcohol and, particularly chosen from fatty alcohols having a fatty chain length of between 12 and 28 carbon atoms, preferably between 14 and 22, and more preferably between 16 and 20 carbon atoms. Even more particularly, the solvent is a branched chain fatty alcohol.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one other lipophilic gelling agent. This other lipophilic gelling agent may be chosen from esters of dextrin and of fatty acids such as dextrin palmitates, especially such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour; hydroxylated fatty acids such as HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID, glycerol esters such as GLYCERYL BEHENATE / I S 0 S TEARATE / EIC 0 S ADIOATE. POLYAMIDE RESIN For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and better still 10 repeating units. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyamide" means a compound having at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and more preferably 10 amide repeating units. The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyamide resin preferably chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides. Hydrocarbon Polyamide The term "hydrocarbon-based polyamide" is intended to mean a polyamide formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or of fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized chains" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, esters, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups. Advantageously, the polyamide of the bark composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 g / mol, especially ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1,000. at 50 000 g / mol, and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g / mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g / mol, and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g / mol. This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used in the bark composition is a polyamide of formula (I): ## STR2 ## in which X represents a group -N (Ri) 2 or a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched C8 to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is a radical ethylene diamine, n is between 2 and 5; - and their mixtures; According to one particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (Ia) II C 2 -X II n OOOO (Ia) in which X represents a group -N (R 1) 2 in which R 1 is a linear alkyl radical or branched C8-C22, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5; - and their mixtures. As amide-terminated polyamide compounds such as those described in the application US2009 / 0280076, and in particular an amide-terminated polyamide of formula of formula (Ia) II C 2 -X II n 0 0 0 0 (Ia) in which X represents a group -N (R1) 2 in which R1 is a linear or branched C8 to C22, preferably C8 to C20, preferably C14 to C20 and preferably C14 to C18 and better still Cg, alkyl radical which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, preferably a dilinoleic acid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5, preferably between 3 and 4; mention may be made of the compound of formula (Ia) whose INCI name is bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylene diamine copolymer.

As a specific example of amide-terminated polyamide which may be used, mention may be made of the compound Haimalate PAM sold by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, which is in combination with diisostearyl malate and whose INCI name is diisostearyl malate (and) bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylene diamine copolymer. According to another embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used in the bark composition is an amide-ester-terminated polyamide of formula (Ib) II 2 CX II n 0 0 0 0 (Ib) in which X represents a group -OR in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, preferably C16 to C22, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is a ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5.

As compounds of polyamides of formula (Ib) II C 2 -X II n 0 0 0 0 (Ib) in which X represents a group -OR 'in which R 1 is a linear or branched C 8 to C 22 alkyl radical, preferably C16 to C22, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is from 2 to 5, and commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer". They are sold respectively in the form of a gel containing 80% active ingredient in a mineral oil and 100% active ingredient. They have a softening point of 88 to 94 ° C. These commercial products are a mixture of copolymers of a C36 di-acid condensed on ethylene diamine, with a weight average molecular weight of about 6000 g / mol. The terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid termini with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also called cetylstearyl alcohol).

According to another embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used in the bark composition is a silicone polyamide. Silicone Polyamide The silicone polyamides of the bark composition are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The silicone polyamides may more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV): ## STR1 ## in which which: R4, R5, R6 and R7, which are identical or different, represent a group chosen from: saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, C1 to C40, hydrocarbon groups which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, OR NH X - C 6 -C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups; at C4, the polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, the Xs, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group; , which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen atoms and / or nitrogen, Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 50, which may include one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or or nitrogen, and / or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C3-C8 cycloalkyl, C1-C40 alkyl, C5-C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 with 3 C 1 -C 3 alkyl, C 1 -C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 6 alkylamines, or Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: R 8 T in which - T represents a linear or branched trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, C3-C24 optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a group C1 to C50 alkyl, linear or branched e, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another polymer chain, n is an integer ranging from 2 at 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200. According to one embodiment of the invention, 80% of the R4, R5, R6 and R7, of the polymer are preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl. In another embodiment, 80% of the R4, R5, R6 and R7 of the polymer are methyl groups. According to the invention, Y may represent various divalent groups, optionally additionally having one or two free valences to establish bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from: a) C 1 to C 20, preferably C 1 to C 10, linear alkylene groups, b) branched alkylene groups which may comprise non-conjugated rings and unsaturations, at C 30 to C 50, ) C5-C6 cycloalkylene groups, d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C1-C40 alkyl groups, e) C1-C20 alkylene groups having 1 to 5 amide groups, f) alkylene groups C1 to C20, having one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C3 to C8 cycloalkane, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1 to C6 alkylamino; g) polyorganosiloxane chains of the formula: R5-R4 R4 Si_ O If R 7 R 6 R 5 Si, or R 5 -R 4 R 5 Si Si O Si R 7 R 6 R 7 m wherein R 4, R 5, R 6, R 7, T and m are as defined above.

Such a unit can be obtained: either by a condensation reaction between a silicone having α, co-carboxylic acid and one or more diamines, according to the following reaction scheme: HOOC X R4 R5 X COOH + H2N Y NH2 -) 111 ## STR2 ## by reacting two α-unsaturated carboxylic acid molecules with a diamine according to the following reaction scheme: ## STR2 ## c11-Xi-Coon + Fi2N-v-Nu2 CH2 = CH-Xi-CO-NH-Y-NH-CO-Xi-CH = CH2 followed by the addition of a siloxane to the ethylenic unsaturations, according to the following scheme : CH2 = CH-X'-CO-NH-Y-NH-CO-X'-CH = CH2-R4-R5 + H SiH i0 R6 R7 M -R4-R5 i0 CO X Si X CO NH Y NH -n R7 R6In wherein X1- (CH2) 2- corresponds to X defined above and Y, R4, R5, R6, R7 and m are as defined above, or by reaction of an α-terminated silicone, w-NH 2 and a diacid of formula HOOC-Y-COOH according to the following reaction scheme: R 4 R 5 H 2 N SiO Si X NH 2 + HOOC-Y-COOH In these silicone polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m is from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500, and especially from 50 to 200, and In particular, from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100, and more preferably from 4 to 25, X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms. , in particular from 5 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 carbon atoms, and - Y is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain or which may comprise rings and / or unsaturations, having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms.

In the formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements: 1 to 5 amide groups, urea, urethane or carbamate; C5 or C6 cycloalkyl group, and - a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C1-C3 alkyl groups. In the formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one member selected from the group consisting of: - a hydroxy group, - a C3 to C8 cycloalkyl group, - one to three alkyl groups C1 to C40; phenyl optionally substituted with one to three C1 to C3 alkyl groups; C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl; and C1 to C6 aminoalkyl. In these formulas (III) and (IV), Y may also represent: R8 where R8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula: R13 (CF12) a C (CH2) b OR (CH2) a N (CF12 ) 1) (CF12) c (CF12) c wherein a, b and c are independently integers from 1 to 10, and Rn is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R4, R5, R6 and R7. In the formulas (III) and (IV), R4, R5, R6 and R7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups. As has been seen previously, the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (III) or (IV). Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, ie a polyamide corresponding to formula (V): R 4 R 5 SiO Si XC (O) mi Y NH-R 6 m IR 7 R5 SiO Si XC (O) NH Y NH, wherein R, X, Y, n, R4 to R7 have the meanings given above, m1 and m2 which are different, are chosen in the range from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 300.

In this formula, the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the units may be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having different Ys. In this case, the polymer may have the formula VI: ## STR5 ## wherein R 6 R 4 R 5 SiO Si X C (O) NH Y NH R 6 R 5 XC (O) NH NH (VI) wherein R4 to R7, X, Y, ml, m2, n and p have the meanings given above and Yi is different from Y but selected from groups defined for Y. As above the different units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer.

In this first embodiment of the invention, the silicone polyamide may also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units can be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines. In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one unit of formula (VII): ## STR2 ## in which X 1 and X 2, which are identical or different, have the same meaning. given for X in formula (III), n is as defined in formula (III), Y and T are as defined in formula (III), R14 to R2 'are groups selected from the same group as R4 to R7, ml and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500. In formula (VII), it is preferred that: p is from 1 to 25, more preferably 1 to 7, R 14 to R 2 'are methyl groups, T is one of the following formulas: R 23 C 23 R 24 R 24 R 22 R 25 R 25 R 25 R 23 Al R 24 R 25 in which R 22 is a hydrogen atom hydrogen or a group selected from the defined groups and R23, R24 and R25 for R4 to R7 are independently linear or branched alkylene groups, more preferably, the formula: R23 R24 R25, in particular with R23, R24 and R25 representing -CH2-CH2-, m1 and m2 are from 15 to 500, and more preferably from 15 to 45, X1 and X2 are - (CH2) 10-, and Y is - CH2.

As noted above, the siloxane units may be in the backbone or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendant or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer comprising units of formula (III) or (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units may be disposed at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises units of formula III. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the groups R4, R5, R6 and R7 represent methyl groups, one of X and Y represents an alkylene group with 6 carbon atoms and the other an alkylene group with 11 carbon atoms. . n is an integer from 2 to 500, n represents the degree of polymerization DP of the polymer. By way of example of such silicone polyamides, mention may be made of the compounds marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 28178 (DP 15) whose INCI name is "Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers "i.e. Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers. More preferably, the bark composition used according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) in which m is from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably from the order of 100.

The index "m" corresponds to the degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the polymer. More preferably, R4, R5, R6 and R7 independently represent a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group in formula (III).

By way of example of a silicone polymer which may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680. According to a preferred embodiment, the polyamide silicone polymer marketed by Dow is used. Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100). The silicone polymers and / or copolymers used in the bark composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of from 70 to 130 ° C and more preferably from 80 ° C to 105 ° C. Preferably, the total amount of structuring polymers as defined above, present in the bark composition used according to the invention, is between 0.1% and 40% by weight, or else between 0.2%. and 25% by weight, or even better, between 0.2 and 20% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the bark composition (limits included). The silicone polymers and / or copolymers used in the bark composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of from 70 to 130 ° C and more preferably from 80 ° C to 105 ° C. Advantageously, the total amount of structuring agents as defined above in the bark composition according to the invention is between 0.1% and 40%, preferably between 0.2% and 25%, of preferred way between 5 and 20% and advantageously between 12 and 20% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said bark composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the bark composition according to the invention comprises at least one: (i) polyamide of formula (I) X + CRC-NH-RNH + CR, CX II 2 II n 0 0 OO (I) in which X represents a group -N (R1) 2 or a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue at C28-C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5, and (ii) a combination of a (C2-C6) N-acylglutamide dialkyl in which the acyl group comprises a linear alkyl chain. Cs to C22 / preferably N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide and a (C 2 -C 6) dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched alkyl chain Cg to C22, preferably the dibutylamide of the N-2-ethylhexanoyl-glutamic acid. According to a preferred embodiment, the bark composition according to the invention comprises an amide-terminated polyamide, preferably the compound whose INCI name is "diisostearyl malate (and) bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylene diamine copolymer" marketed by the company. KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO under the name Haimalate PAM, and a combination of dibutylamide of N-lauroylglutamic acid and dibutylamide of N-2-ethylhexanoyl-glutamic acid.

According to another preferred embodiment, the bark composition according to the invention comprises an ester-terminated polyamide, preferably the compound whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer" sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the name Uniclear 100 VG and a combination of N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide and N-2-ethylhexanoyl-glutamic acid dibutylamide. OILS Each of the bark and heart composition compositions contains a fatty phase. These fatty phases may be identical or different. The fatty phases of the bark and core compositions contain at least one non-volatile oil. By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 101 mmHg (0.13 Pa). It is also possible to define a non-volatile oil as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2.

Hydrocarbon apolar oils Advantageously, the oil present in the compositions according to the invention is a hydrocarbon-based apolar oil. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C., 6a, is equal to 0 (J / cm 3) 1/4. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space: - SD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; and - 15a is determined by the equation: δa = ((Sp2 δh2) 1/4 The parameters δp, δh, 15D and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4. "Hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom, it may contain alcohol groups ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide By "hydrocarbon ester oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil comprising at least one ester group.

Preferably, the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atom. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, petroleum jelly, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 13 40 g / mol) mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), VISEAL 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is isoeicosane. Preferably, the fatty phase of the bark composition comprises an apolar non-volatile oil chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as chosen from paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane Vaseline oil, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, polyisobutylenes, decene / butene scopolites, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, hydrogenated polydecenes and polydecenes and mixtures thereof and preferably isoeicosane.

Polar oils According to another embodiment, each of the core and bark compositions also comprises a polar nonvolatile oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils and fluorinated oils.

By silicone oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. By fluorinated oil is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

According to a first preferred embodiment, said polar nonvolatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil. By "polar oil" within the meaning of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, δa, is different from 0 (J / cm3) 1/4.

These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil By "non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil" is meant an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing no silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. In particular, the non-volatile hydrocarbonaceous polar oil may be chosen from the following list of oils, and their mixtures: vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; the hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR 'in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononanoate; isononyl, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, oleyl erucate or octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate; the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol; butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably monoalcohols, preferably branched, such as octadodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol; higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; oils of vegetable origin, such as sesame oil (820.6 g / mol), fatty acids having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid; the di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and non-volatile oils of high molecular weight, for example between 650 and 10,000 g / mol, for example: i) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216 marketed or manufactured by the ISP company (MW = 7300 g / mol), ii) ester oils such as: a) linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g / mol), b) hydroxyl esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g / mol), c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g). mol), d) esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76). g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697.05g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g / mol), trietyl-2 tetrad glyceryl ecanoate (MW = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g / mol) or tetra decyl -2 pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g / mol), e) esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as dimer diol and fatty acid esters and esters diol dimer dimer and diacid dicarboxylic acid, there may be mentioned esters of dilinoleic diacids and dimers dilinoleic diols sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. And their mixtures.

The esters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic acid can be obtained from monocarboxylic acid comprising from 4 to 34 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated. By way of illustration of an example of a monocarboxylic acid which is suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fatty acids. The diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid esters may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially a C 8 to C 34, in particular a C 12 to C 22, in particular a C 12 to C 22 fatty acid. C20, and more particularly C18.

According to a particular variant, it is more particularly the dicarboxylic acid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified is also derived. The dimer diol and carboxylic acid esters may be obtained from a diol dimer produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a dicarboxylic acid dimer as described above, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid.

By way of illustration of the dimer diol esters, there may be mentioned the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. Preferably, the bark composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon polar oils, preferably chosen from ester oils, alcoholic oils and mixtures thereof. In particular, the bark composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile ester oil, preferably with a molecular weight greater than 650 g / mol, preferably chosen from aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate.

Preferably, the bark composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester oil chosen from isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, tridecyl trimellitate and diisostearyl malate. Preferably, the bark composition according to the invention comprises at least one alcoholic oil chosen from fatty monoalcohols, preferably branched, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, and the like. oleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and preferably isostearyl alcohol.

According to another embodiment, each of the core and bark compositions comprises at least one non-volatile oil. The non-volatile oil can also be a fluorinated oil.

By "fluorinated oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The fluorinated oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds.

By perfluorinated compounds is meant according to the invention compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted by fluorine atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluorinated oils. As examples of perfluorinated oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalin and perfluoperhydrophenanthrene. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil chosen from perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular Fiflow® products marketed by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil whose INCI name is perfluoperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference FIFLOW 220 by the company F2 Chemicals. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, preferably 90% by weight and more preferably 95% by weight of non-volatile oil relative to to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are free of additional volatile oil. By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (101 Pa). at 300 mmHg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mm) of Hg).

Waxes In the bark Advantageously, the bark composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.5% better than 0.1% and more preferably is completely free of wax. Indeed, such waxes may compromise the transparent appearance of said bark composition. The wax or waxes considered are generally a solid-state solid (25 ° C.), reversible solid / liquid state, lipophilic compound having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. go up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments. Preferably, the waxes have a melting enthalpy AHf greater than or equal to 70 J / g. Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, visible by X-ray observations. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise of -20. ° C at 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 120 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the following parameters are measured: the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature, AFIF: the melting enthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. According to the first preferred variant, in which the core and bark compositions differ only in the content of coloring agents, the core composition is free of wax. According to the second preferred variant, the core composition may comprise waxes. The waxes that may be used in the core composition are chosen from waxes which are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. As an illustration of the waxes that are suitable for the core composition, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, and Carnauba wax. Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes (such as the one sold under the reference Microwax HW by Paramelt), paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes such as those sold under the name Performalene 500-L and Performalene 400 by New Phase Technologies, the waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis.

There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by DESERT WHALE under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, sunflower oil hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190. As wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or as a mixture . Such a wax is in particular sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P" Hydroxypolyester K 82 P "and" Kester Wax K 80 P ", and" Kester Wax K 82 H "by the company Koster Keunen. Paste Advantageously, the bark composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.5% better than 0.1% and more preferably is completely free of pastes. According to the first preferred embodiment, the core composition is free of pastes. According to the second preferred embodiment, the core composition may comprise pastes. The term "pasty fatty substance" (also referred to as "pasty") is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments . As regards the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance preheated to 80 ° C. and taken from below Magnetic stirring using an equally heated spatula is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results. The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter aroused. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. The cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol, first being brought to a temperature of 20 ° C and then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C to 80 ° C. ° C, at the heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 80 ° C to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the ISO standard. 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

Regarding the hardness measurement, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: The pasty fat is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal past and control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a rate of heat of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes.

The compression force measurement is performed with Swantech TA / TX2i texturometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2 mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical 12 mm diameter steel mobile for inferior raw materials; The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrates into the pasty fatty substance at a depth of penetration of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a third so-called withdrawal step where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and note the energy withdrawal of the probe (negative force). The value of the hardness measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the area of the cylinder of the texturometer expressed in mm 2 in contact with the pasty fatty substance. The value of hardness obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa. The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives; Vaseline, in particular the one whose INCI name is petrolatum and marketed under the name ULTIMA WHITE PET USP by Perenco, polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol ethers and of sugar, and mixtures thereof, pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 OP ) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their mixtures and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company Vevy, mixture where the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil. polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, fluorinated polymeric or non-polymeric compounds, vinyl polymers, especially: olefin homopolymers and copolymers, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of olefins; or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group - homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups at C8-C30, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols, and / or mixtures thereof.

The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22). mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the tradename ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, homopolymers of vinyl ester having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex), arachidyl propionate marketed under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as for example fatty acid triglycerides, especially C10-C18, partially or totally hydro Genes such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol, the pentaerythritol esters, the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a diol. C2-05O polyol; - the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, acid tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, acid isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) partial or total esters of C2 to C16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acidic radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters, such esters may be chosen especially from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof, mango butter, such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aharushkarlshamn, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, blended hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI Name Hydrogenated Veg) etable Oil), - shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, - and mixtures thereof. Among the pasty compounds, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimeric dilinoleyl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, are preferably chosen. , hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN OIL, polyvinyl laurate, mango butter, shea butter, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil , hydrogenated rapeseed oil, vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers or their mixture. COLORING MATERIALS The core-shell product, and preferably the core composition, according to the invention contains a coloring agent chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixtures. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this agent in such a way that the advantageous properties of the bark or core composition according to the invention are not or not substantially altered. For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase, or water-miscible and colorable solvents. In particular, it is intended to characterize, by the term water-soluble, the ability of a compound to solubilize in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. In the bark composition, the pigments and nacres are generally present in a proportion of 0.01 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The shell composition advantageously comprises at least one mother-of-pearl. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS. The coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537. By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

By "dyes", it is necessary to include generally organic compounds that are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase. The liposoluble dyes may be chosen from Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, 13-carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.

This effect is different from a simple effect of conventional hue, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomatiere or multimaterial at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE. 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy blends such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names ROTOSAFE 700 of the company ECKART, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER from the company ECKART and the metal alloy particles such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, and Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / SnO; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure marketed under the trademark Xirona Magic by Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and silica structural pigments / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide marketed under the name XIRONA 25 CARRIBEAN BLUE by MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, gold-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER. Examples of goniochromatic liquid crystal particles that may be used are those sold by the company Chenix and those marketed under the name HELICONE® HC by the company Wacker. Charge The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one filler.

Advantageously, the bark composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.5% better than 0.1% and even better is completely free of charge. Indeed, such loads could compromise the transparent appearance of said bark composition according to the invention. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" is understood to mean particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-B-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon ( ), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap®). Dow Corning Company) and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, silica microspheres hollow (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. It may also be particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from the company TOSHIKI. It can also be reflective particles. Examples of reflective particles The reflective particles used must be compatible with a use in cosmetics and must be able to remain in the physiologically acceptable medium, and in particular not dissolve, or in any case not dissolve entirely, in the latter. The reflective particles may be present in the composition by being dispersed homogeneously, for example at a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and better from 1% to 10% by weight, for example about 2% especially for a composition intended to be applied to the lips. The content of reflective particles may depend, among other things, on the nature of the support intended to receive the cosmetic composition, as well as on the nature of the physiologically acceptable medium and on the goniochromatic coloring agent (s) and on the nature and size of the reflective particles. The content of reflective particles will preferably be chosen so that the highlight points are discretely distributed over the goniochromatic colored surface. The reflective particles may be in an amount sufficient so that, when the cosmetic composition is applied to a support such as the lips for example, it is possible to observe simultaneously a plurality of highlight points, for example more than ten or even more than fifty, or more, for example more than a hundred or several hundred. The reflective particles may or may not be goniochromatic, interferential or not, but preferably they are non-goniochromatic.

Their size is compatible with the manifestation of a specular reflection of visible light (400-700 nm), of sufficient intensity, given the average brightness of the composition, to create a highlight point. This size is likely to vary according to the chemical nature of the particles, their shape and their specular reflection power of visible light. Among the reflective particles that may be used in the invention, some may have a relative difference D, defined by the formula D = [L * sci-L * scd / L * SCE, greater than or equal to 0.25. By comparison, some nacres which are not suitable as reflective particles have a D coefficient of less than 0.25. In the formula above, L * sci denotes the L * brightness measured in the area of a MINOLTA brand and CM-2002 spectrophotometer, in a mode known as "specular component included", and UscE, the clarity L * measured using the same device, in a mode called "specular component excluded". For carrying out the measurements, a dispersion at 5% by weight of the test particles is carried out in a transparent nail varnish of conventional composition (essentially nitrocellulose, a resin and a plasticizer) and a fluid state is spread in a fluid state. layer 300 μm thick of the composition thus formed on the black background of a contrast card. The SC1 / SCE function of the spectrocolorimeter with the d / 8 geometry is used to measure L * sci and L * SCE.

By way of example, REFLECKS brand reflective particles, marketed by ENGELHARD, comprising a glass substrate coated with brown iron oxide, have been measured with a relative difference D of greater than 0.7 whereas for pearlescent agents FLAMENCO® marketed by the same company was measured a relative difference of less than 0.2.

The reflective particles will preferably have a size of at least 10 μm, for example between about 20 μm and about 50 μm. By "dimension" is meant the dimension given by the statistical size distribution at half of the population, called D50. . The size of the reflective particles may depend on their surface state. The more reflective this is, the smaller the dimension can be, a priori, and vice versa. For the sake of aesthetics, it is preferable that, except when they shine to create highlight points, the reflective particles are not perceptible at all or not readily perceptible to the naked eye at the surface of the composition applied to its support. It is also desirable that the reflective particles are not so large as to create a feeling of discomfort on the support. The use of particles less than or equal to 250 μm, and better still less than or equal to 150 μm, for example less than 100 μm, is thus preferred. The size of the particles may also depend on the nature of the support on which the composition is intended to be applied; for example, some parts of the body or face may be easier than others to tolerate larger dimensions without causing discomfort. Reflective particles can have various shapes. These particles may in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical. The expression "platelet-shaped" designates particles whose ratio of the largest dimension to the thickness is greater than or equal to 5, or even 10 or better 20. The thickness of the platelet-shaped particles is for example between about 0.5 microns and about 5 microns.

Particles having a substantially planar outer surface are particularly suitable because they can more easily give rise, if their size, structure and surface condition allows, to intense specular reflection. We talk about mirror effect. For such particles in particular, it is essentially light reflected by reflection in a direction making, with the normal to the reflective surface, the same angle as the incident light with this normal, which allows these particles to appear as highlight points, not light scattered in other directions.

It may be desirable for the reflective particles to be non-diffusing and not dull. It may also be desirable that the reflective particles do not appreciably alter the color of the cosmetic composition.

In this respect, the reflective particles which allow a metallic reflection of the incident light are particularly suitable. This is particularly the case when the reflective particles allow whatever their shape, a reflection on a layer of a metal, for example money. Such particles are relatively neutral vis-à-vis the color of the composition.

Reflective particles that can be used in the invention, with a metallic or white sheen, can for example reflect light in all visible components without significantly absorbing one or more wavelengths. The spectral reflectance of these reflective particles may for example be greater than 70% in the range 400-700 nm, and more preferably at least 80%, even 90% or 95%.

The light reflected by the reflective particles may be non-iridescent, especially in the case of a metallic reflection. Reflective particles of any shape may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, including a reflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, for example synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides so as to have a substantially flat surface having a surface state, for example non-matte and non-diffusing, allowing specular reflection of light sufficient to obtain highlight points within the cosmetic composition. When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material. Regardless of the shape of the reflective particles, the substrate may, when synthetic, be made with a shape that promotes the formation of a reflective surface after coating, in particular after the deposition of a layer of reflective material. The substrate may, for example, have a flat surface and the reflective material layer have a substantially uniform thickness. The substrate may be monomaterial or multimaterial, solid or hollow. The substrate may be organic or inorganic. The substrate may be natural but preferably a synthetic substrate is used for the reason indicated above. The substrate may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates and synthetic mica, this list not being limiting. The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metal compound. The layer of metal or metal compound may or may not completely coat the substrate and the metal layer may be at least partially covered by a layer of another material, for example a transparent material. It may be preferable that the metal or metal compound layer coats all, directly or indirectly, that is to say with the interposition of at least one intermediate layer, metallic or otherwise, the substrate. The metal may be chosen for example from Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their alloys. Ag, Au, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, Cu and their alloys (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

In the case in particular of particles coated with silver or gold substrate, the metal layer may be present at a content representing for example from 0.1 to 50% of the total weight of the particles, or even between 1 and 20%.

Glass particles coated with a metal layer may have a size ranging for example from 10 μm to 300 μm, and more preferably from 25 μm to 150 μm. In the case where these particles are in the form of platelets, the thickness may be for example between about 0.1 μm and about 25 μm, preferably from about 0.5 μm to about 10 μm and more preferably from about 0.5 μm to about 5 μm. In the case where these particles are in the form of spheres, they may have a size ranging for example from about 10 to 100 μm. Particles of glass coated with a metal layer are described in particular in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710. Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a metal layer, there may be mentioned particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver, also called "white nacres". Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company. The reflective particles, whatever their shape, can also be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal compound, in particular a metal oxide, chosen for example from among titanium oxides, in particular TiO2, iron including Fe2O3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following compounds: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2 and mixtures or alloys thereof. By way of example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or glass particles coated with either brown iron oxide or titanium oxide, tin oxide or a mixture thereof such as those sold under the trade name REFLECKS by ENGELHARD. Particles of dimensions of between 80 and 100 μm may also be mentioned, comprising a synthetic mica substrate (fluorophlogopite) coated with titanium dioxide representing 12% of the total weight of the particle, sold under the name PROMINENCE by the company NIHON KOKEN. The reflective particles may also be chosen from particles formed from a stack of at least two layers with different refractive indices. These layers may be polymeric or metallic in nature and in particular include at least one polymeric layer. Thus, the reflective particles may be particles derived from a multilayer polymeric film. Such particles are especially described in WO 99/36477, US 6 299 979 and US 6 387 498.

As an illustration of the materials that may constitute the different layers of the multilayer structure, mention may be made of this list not being limiting: polyethylene naphthalate (PEN) and its isomers, for example 2,6-, 1,4-, 1 , 5-, 2,7- and 2,3-PEN, polyalkylene terephthalates, polyimides, polyetherimides, atactic polystyrenes, polycarbonates, polymethacrylates and alkyl polyacrylates, syndiotactic polystyrene (sPS), syndiotactic poly-alpha-methylstyrene, syndiotactic polydichlorostyrene, copolymers and mixtures of polystyrenes, cellulose derivatives, polyalkylene polymers, fluorinated polymers, chlorinated polymers, polysulfones, polyethersulfones, polyacrylonitriles, polyamides, silicone resins epoxy resins, polyvinyl acetate, polyether amides, ionomeric resins, elastomers and polyurethanes. Also suitable are copolymers, for example copolymers of PEN (for example, 2,6-, 1,4-, 1,5-, 2,7-, and / or 2,3-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid copolymers or its esters with (a) terephthalic acid or its esters, (b) isophthalic acid or its esters, (c) phthalic acid or its esters, (d) alkane glycols, (e) cycloalkane glycols (eg cyclohexane dimethanol diol) (f) alkane dicarboxylic acids, and / or (g) cycloalkane dicarboxylic acids, polyalkylene terephthalate copolymers and styrene copolymers In addition, each individual layer may include mixtures of two or more preceding polymers or copolymers The choice of materials for constituting the different layers of the multilayer structure is of course carried out so as to give the desired reflective appearance to the particles thus formed. Two layers of polymers are sold by the company 3M under the name MIRROR GLITTER. These particles comprise 2,6-PEN and polymethyl methacrylate layers in a weight ratio of 80/20. Such particles are described in US Pat. No. 5,825,643. The brightness of the reflective particles may be further due, in a variant or additionally, to the reflection of light on a layer of a material of the particle having a sufficient refractive index. large compared to the middle one from which the incident light comes. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may of course comprise reflective particles of different natures without departing from the scope of the present invention. Active Ingredients According to one embodiment, the bark composition and / or the core composition, preferably the core composition, comprises at least one active agent preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, cicatrizing agents and / or anti-aging agents, skin and / or lips, and in particular lips. According to this embodiment, the invention also relates to a method of care and / or makeup (non-therapeutic) of the skin and / or lips, and in particular of the lips comprising the application of a composition according to the invention on the skin and / or lips. The deposit made with a composition according to the invention having a good level of resistance, makes it possible to ensure the persistence of the active ingredient on the skin and / or the lips and thus to improve the effectiveness of the care (moisturizing, healing effect and / or anti-aging) of the skin and / or lips. Moistening Agents According to another aspect of the present invention, the bark composition comprises: at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition of a fatty phase, said fatty phase being free of polar oil (s) ( s) polyhydroxylated (s), at least one structuring agent of the fatty phase, at least one coloring agent chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixtures, - at least one hydrophilic compound chosen from sorbitol polyhydric alcohols, preferably C 2 -C 8 alcohols, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof in a content of between 0, 5 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition being free of polar protic solvents. According to this aspect, the bark composition is very visually satisfactory because it is formed of a transparent base containing a hydrophilic phase in the form of inclusions, preferably colored, immiscible hydrophilic compounds.

Preferably, at least one of the compositions of the product according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant), preferably it is the core composition. Preferably, the moisturizing agent is chosen from urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs and BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM. ® from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CPD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB"; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zince; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Preferably, the active agent is chosen from:, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, serine, collagen, a C-glycoside derivative and in particular C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy) propane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen), spheres hyaluronic acid, ceramides such as ceramide V. Preferably, the active content in the core composition and / or in the bark composition ranges from 0.001% to 8% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight. at 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additional cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen in particular, sunscreens, film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof. tense, the skilled person will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the bark or core composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged.

The composition according to the invention can be advantageously used for the make-up of the skin and / or the lips depending on the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the composition used according to the invention can be in the form of a solid foundation, lipstick or paste, lip balm, concealer, or eye contour, eye shadow. body makeup product or a product for coloring the skin. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a colored lipstick makeup product such as a lipstick, or a pencil, possibly having care or treatment properties. It can be in the form of an anhydrous stick. Core composition Advantageously, the core composition comprises at least one filler, especially in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the core composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. % in weight. Structuring agent / thickener The core composition may comprise, in addition to the waxes possibly present, at least one structuring agent chosen from lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof. Lipophilic Gelling Agents According to one embodiment, the core composition may comprise at least one gelling agent. The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. Advantageously, the core comprises the same gelling system as the bark. According to a first variant, the core comprises at least one compound chosen from pasty fatty substances, waxes, fillers and their mixtures. According to a second variant, the core comprises the same gelling system as the bark and at least one pasty fatty substance. Preferably the core comprises at least 0.01% by weight, better still 0.1% by weight of dyestuff relative to the total weight of the composition, for example a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. According to one particular embodiment, the second composition, that is to say the core composition, comprises a combination of at least one dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a linear low molecular weight alkyl chain, especially chosen from dialkyl (C2-C6) nacylglutamides. wherein the acyl group comprises a linear Cg-C22 alkyl chain such as dibutylamide of lauroylglutamic acid (or "dibutyl lauroyl glutamide"), with at least one dialkyl N-acylglutamide having a low molecular weight branched alkyl chain, in particular chosen from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cg to C22 alkyl chain such as dibutylamide of N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid (or "dibutylethylhexanoyl glutamide) and preferably with a solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two low molecular weight lipophilic gelling agents and comprises at least 0.01% of at least one dyestuff. The present invention further relates to a method of care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips in which said product is applied to the skin and / or the lips and also the use of said product for the care and / or the makeup of the skin and / or lips and in particular to moisturize the skin and / or the lips, especially as a lipstick. The following example is given by way of non-limiting illustration of the present invention. Percentages are percentages by weight. EXAMPLE 1 Bark-Bark Stick with Transparent Bark and Colored Heart The stick was prepared using Composition A as a core composition and Composition B as a bark composition: This core-bark product can be obtained by a conventional method. in particular, in a first step, the dyestuffs in the form of powder are ground in a part of the fatty phase.

The rest of the ingredients of the fatty phase are mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C, the ground material is then added to said fatty phase. Preferably the core-shell product is obtained by a double casting technique. Composition A (core) RAW MATERIALS% BY WEIGHT ISOEICOSANE 18.65 TRIDECYL TRIMELLITATE 22.88 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE qs RAW MATERIALS BY WEIGHT ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER 17 ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL 11.35 DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE (EB 21) 1.27 DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE (GP 1) 2.57 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE 0.35 YELLOW 5 LAKE 0.85 BLUE 1 LAKE 0.2 RED 7 0.45 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0.2 IRON OXIDES 0.95 Composition B (bark) RAW MATERIALS% BY WEIGHT ISOEICOSANE 18.55 TRIDENY TRIMELLITATE 22.77 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE qsp ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER (UNICLEAR 100V) 16.92 ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL 11.29 DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE (EB 21) 1.26 DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE (GP 1) 2.56 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI -T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE (TINOGARD TT) 0.35 The stick obtained has a transparent bark and a colored core. The visual effect obtained is very aesthetic. Example 2: Bark-core Stick with Transparent Bark and Opaque Heart The stick was prepared using Composition C described below as a core composition and Composition B described above as a bark composition. Composition C (core) COMPOSITION Percentage by weight OCTYLDODECYL PPG3 MYRISTYL 11 ETHER DIMER DILINOLEATE COMPOSITION Percentage by weight OCTA-COSANYLE STEARATE 4.25 STEAROYL-STEARATE FROM ISO-10 CETYLE ISOSTEARATE ISOPROPYL qsp ESTERS FROM ACIDS AND ALCOHOLS 3 , 4 LINEAR (C16 / C36) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (C20- 2.55 C60) RED CALCIUM SALT 0.064 LITHOL B ALUMINUM LACQUER BLUE 0.032 BRILLIANT FCF ON ALUMINA (12/88) (CI: 42090: 2 + 77002 ) YELLOW ALUMINUM LIGHT 0.048 BRILLIANT FCF ON ALUMINA (42/58) (CI: 15985: 1 + 77002) MICA-TINOAN OXIDE-CARMIN DE COCHENILLE (CI: 77019 + 77891 +75470) (76.5 / 21 /2.5) (SIZE: 28-83 MICRONS) 4 MICA-OXIDE OF TITANIUM OXIDE 1 OF BROWN CARIN OF COCHENILLE (59 / 37.5 / 2.5 / 1) (CI: 77019 + 77891 + 77491 + 75470 ) POLY ISO-BUTENE HYDROGEN POLYETHYLENE WAX (MW: 3.4 500) 7.5 VINYL ACETATE COPOLYMER / ALLYL STEARATE (65/35) * VINYL POLYLAURATE 8 NON-HYDROGEN POLYISOBUTENE (N = 6- 8 - MW: 370) COMPOSITION Percentage by weight AND HERS OF DODECANEDIOL 5 (2.2MOL) AND POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL (45 0E) MICRO-SPHERES OF SILICA 5 POROUS (SIZE PARTICLES: 1- 16 MICRONS) COATED WITH POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE (93/7) Total: 100 * Mexomere PQ marketed by Chimex The stick obtained has a transparent bark and a colored opaque heart.

The application of these sticks is comfortable and gives a light color that gives a good-looking effect to the lips.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Anhydrous cosmetic product, in particular in the form of a stick, comprising a first composition and a second composition different from the first composition, in which: the first composition is solid, transparent and comprises at least a first fatty phase and at least one structuring agent of the first fatty phase and the second composition is advantageously solid, advantageously non-transparent, comprises a second fatty phase, at least one structuring agent of the second fatty phase and at least one dyestuff in a content greater than that of the first composition, said first and second fatty phases comprising the same structuring agent (s). 2. The product of claim 1 wherein the second composition comprises the same ingredients as the first composition, for each ingredient the weight ratio of the content in the second composition to the content in the first composition ranges from 0.9 / 1 to 1.1 / 1 and the second composition comprises at least one dyestuff in a content greater than that of the first composition. 3. Product according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the agent (s) structuring (s) of the first fatty phase and / or the structuring agent (s) of the second fatty phase comprises ( nt) a polyamide resin. 4. The product as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the first fatty phase and / or the second fatty phase contains a gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl Nacylglutamides with a linear low-alkyl chain. molecular, in particular chosen from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cg to C22 alkyl chain with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl Nacylglutamide with a low molecular weight branched alkyl chain, in particular selected from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides wherein the acyl group comprises a branched Cg to C22 alkyl chain. 5. An anhydrous cosmetic product, taken independently or in combination with any one of the preceding claims, formed of a first composition, preferably forming a bark and a second composition, preferably forming a core, different from the first composition, in which: the first composition is solid, transparent and comprises a fatty phase, at least one polyamide resin, and a gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from linear alkyl-chain dialkyl N-acylglutamides. of low molecular weight, especially chosen from dialkyl (C 2 -C 6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear C 8 to C 22 alkyl chain with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a branched alkyl chain of low molecular weight, especially chosen from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a chain The second composition is advantageously solid, advantageously non-transparent and comprises a fatty phase, said second composition advantageously comprising a dyestuff in a content greater than that of the first composition. 6. Product according to claim 3 or 5, wherein the polyamide resin is selected from hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides. 7. A product according to claim 6 wherein the polyamide is a polyamide of the formula (I) X ± CRC-NH-RNH + CR, CX II 2 II n O 0 OO (I) wherein X is a group -N ( Ri) 2 or a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a di-C28-C42 dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5. The product according to any of claims 4 or 5 wherein the linear alkyl chain dialkyl N-acylglutamide is lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide and the branched alkyl chain dialkyl N-acylglutamide is N-acid dibutylamide. -2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic. 9. Product according to any one of claims 4, 5 or 8 wherein the total amount of dialkyl N-acylglutamides lipophilic gelling agents is less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. The product according to any one of claims 5 to 9 comprising an amide-terminated polyamide, preferably the compound whose INCI name is "diisostearyl malate (and) bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylene diamine copolymer" and a combination of dibutylamide of N-lauroylglutamic acid and N-2-ethylhexanoyl-glutamic acid dibutylamide. 11. Product according to any one of claims 5 to 10 comprising an ester-terminated polyamide preferably the compound whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer" and a combination of dibutylamide N-lauroylglutamic acid and N-2-ethylhexanoyl-glutamic acid dibutylamide. 12. Product according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the first composition or bark composition comprises at least one apolar non-volatile oil selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as selected from paraffin oil. or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, petrolatum oil, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes and mixtures thereof and preferably isoeicosane. 13. A product according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the first composition or bark composition comprises at least one ester oil preferably selected from isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, tridecyl trimellitate and diisostearyl malate. 14. A product according to any preceding claim wherein the first composition or bark composition comprises at least one alcohol oil is selected from fatty monoalcohols, preferably branched, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and preferably isostearyl alcohol. A product according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the second composition or core composition comprises at least one of beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, the wax of its composition. rice, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis. 16. A cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of the lips, comprising at least one step of applying thereon a product as defined in any one of the preceding claims. 17. Use of the product according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips, and more particularly of a lipstick.