FR2931671A1 - COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING POLYESTER AND COLORING MATERIAL AND USES THEREOF - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or skin care composition comprising a fatty phase, at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of diol and at least one dyestuff, said composition being free from additional polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. It also relates to a cosmetic product comprising such a composition and a process for making up or caring for the skin, lips and / or integuments, comprising the application to these parts of such a composition or of such a product.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or skin care composition comprising a fatty phase, at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of diol and at least one dyestuff, said composition being free from additional polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Many makeup compositions, and in particular lip makeup compositions, are glossy or have a shiny effect. This brilliance, which makes it possible to highlight the covered area, is generally obtained by the incorporation of glossy oils. These glossy oils are generally characterized by their high molecular weight and are generally apolar (eg polybutenes), and therefore poorly dispersible pigments. These glossy apolar oils also have the disadvantage of being very uncomfortable because sticky. In the compositions of the state of the art comprising apolar oils, the dispersion of the coloring agents, in particular pigments, is obtained by the addition of polar oils. Most of these polar oils, however, have the disadvantage of being low gloss and / or uncomfortable, especially because of their tendency to dry lips when included in lipstick formulations. Other polar oils, even if they fulfill the gloss criteria, in particular the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 and DD-DA7, exhibit an excellent performance. the brightness or color, or even the behavior of the cosmetic composition once applied, unsatisfactory. In particular, a too high viscosity is noted, which leads to a poor dispersion of the dyestuffs and thus to obtaining an inhomogeneous color. These polar oils can also bring a sticky feel to the composition particularly unpleasant for the user.

Accordingly, there is still a need to provide formulations for obtaining cosmetic compositions in which pigments can be satisfactorily dispersed, while having high gloss, improved gloss and color retention over time. , and while remaining comfortable and therefore suitable for cosmetic use.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the use of certain liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer and diol makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions in which pigments can be dispersed satisfactorily, while having a high gloss, a hold of the gloss and color improved over time, and while remaining comfortable and therefore suitable for cosmetic use.

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or skin care composition comprising a fatty phase, a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of diol, and at least one dyestuff, said composition being free from additional polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000, or containing less than 15% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

The invention furthermore relates to a cosmetic product for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the lips, comprising a first and a second composition, each of said compositions comprising a physiologically acceptable support, and at least one of the first and second composition comprising the combination of a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer of a and diol and at least one dyestuff, said at least one composition being oil-free polar additional molecular weight less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to a process for makeup or care of the skin, lips and / or integuments, comprising the application to these parts of a composition or a product according to the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION The present invention relates to a cosmetic or skin care composition comprising a fatty phase, at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of diol and at least one dyestuff, said composition being free of additional polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may especially take the form of a foundation, a blush or eyelid, a concealer, a blush, a loose powder or compacted, a lipstick, a lip balm , a lip gloss, a lip or eye pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail polish or a product for body make-up or skin coloring. Preferably, the cosmetic or skin care composition according to the invention is a lipstick or a lip gloss.

The various components of the composition according to the invention are detailed below.

Polyester The composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer and diol. The inventors have observed that such polyesters have advantageous properties compared with the glossy oils usually used in cosmetic compositions, especially with respect to glossy oils such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and dimer dilinoleic diols marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 and DD-DA7, or a polyisobutene. Thus, the inventors have shown that the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of fatty acids and diol make it possible to obtain a particularly satisfactory dispersion of the dyestuffs used in a cosmetic composition, while maintaining a gloss and a holding this shine satisfactory. The compositions thus obtained are also particularly comfortable.

Liquid polyester means a polyester which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25 ° C).

In the context of the present invention, unsaturated fatty acids are mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acid dimers may in particular comprise from 2 to 4 unsaturations in their carbon chain. The unsaturated fatty acid trimers may comprise from 3 to 6 unsaturations in their carbon chain.

Preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6 carboxylic acid functions per molecule. In a preferred embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer can comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and 3 carboxylic acid functions. Preferably, an unsaturated fatty acid dimer is used, in particular having 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions. Mixtures of dimers and trimers of unsaturated fatty acid and / or unsaturated fatty acid (unpolymerized, therefore corresponding to a monomer) can also be used within the scope of the invention. In the case of such a mixture, a mixture comprising more than 50% by weight of dimers, for example a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95%, of acids in the form of dimers, is preferred. the remainder of the mixture may be trimers and / or unsaturated fatty acid monomers.

The dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid may optionally be hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid, in particular to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product.

Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic or linoleic acid) are especially marketed under the trade names EMPOL1008, EMPOL1004, EMPOL1025, EMPOL1011 and EMPOL1062 by Cognis and Pripol 1006 (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema, International. Uniqema also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name Pripol 1013 (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).

In a particularly preferred manner, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is a dimer of linoleic acid, also called dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid.

The unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably vegetable. A fatty acid of plant origin can come from any plant source producing said fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, molecules extracted from soybean, rapeseed, etc. may be used.

The polyester in the composition according to the invention is thus obtained by condensation of a long chain fatty acid polymerized with a diol. In the context of the present invention, the term "diol" denotes a C2-C10, preferably C2-C8, and preferably C2-C6, hydrocarbon-based compound, the carbon chain of which is substituted with two hydroxyl functions. The hydrocarbon chain (s) may be interrupted by an oxygen atom. The diols that can be used according to the invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols. Preferably, the diol is a saturated linear diol. In a particularly preferred manner, the diol is a butanediol, especially 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has a mean molecular weight of between 500 and 2000, preferably between 1000 and 2000, and preferably between 1200 and 1800.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, preferably having an average molecular weight of 1300, a viscosity at 40 ° C of 2500-3500 cSt and a refractive index at 25 ° C of 1.475-1.485. In particular, mention may be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer). The amount of polyester in the composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent and depends in particular on the desired dosage and the desired effects. Advantageously, and to give an order of magnitude, the amount of polyester is between 5 and 60% by weight, preferably between 8% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase The composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase which comprises one or more oils and / or a fatty substance. It is in particular a liquid fatty phase based on at least one oil, for example for the formulation of a composition for lip gloss. It may also be a solid fatty substance, possibly mixed with oils, especially for a composition of lipstick, in the form of a stick.

Liquid oils

By oil is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. They may comprise polar oils, apolar or mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention is preferably free of additional polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000. It may nevertheless contain at most 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. In a particular aspect, the composition contains less than 10% or even less than 5% by weight of additional polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty phase according to the invention comprises any type of oil compatible with a cosmetic use, as envisaged in the present invention. These oils are chosen according to the desired formulation, in particular to obtain a foundation, a blush or eyeshadow, a concealer, a blush, a loose powder or compacted, a lipstick, a balm to lips, a lip gloss, a lip or eye pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail polish or a product for body make-up or skin coloring.

Among the polar oils, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon oils comprising ester, ether, acid, alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as fatty alcohols and fatty acids, and their esters. It is thus possible to cite as a polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000: high-triglyceride hydrocarbon vegetable oils consisting of fatty acid ester and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids. These oils include wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, of pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier , passionflower, rose hip or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the name MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by DYNAMIT NOBEL; - Short-chain acid esters, in particular comprising from 4 to 11 carbon atoms, and in particular octanoic acid or heptanoic acid such as propylene glycol dioctanoate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; fatty acid esters, in particular of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid such as propylene glycol monoisostearate, poly-glyceryl 2-diisostearate, - short synthetic esters corresponding to the formula R30O0R4 in which R3 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R3 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms provided that the number of carbon atoms in R3 + R4 is less than or equal to 25, such as, for example, isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, ethyl palmitate 2 hexano, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, palmitate of 2- ethylhexyl, 2-diethyl-succinate exyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl stearate, octylpalmitate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, diglycerin triisostearate; - Glycerin triisostearate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; the pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate; Branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; higher C12-C26 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; Or their mixtures.

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more apolar oil (s). By apolar oil in the sense of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C 8a is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 'Y2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - 6D characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; bh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); - ba is determined by the equation: ba = (6p2 + 6h2) 'h The parameters 8p, 8h, 8D and ba are expressed in (J / cm3)' 2. The apolar oil may in particular be a hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oil. Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. In one embodiment, the apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of heteroatom (s). By heteroatom is meant an atom other than carbon or hydrogen.

Among the hydrocarbon oils are squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as paraffin, petroleum and naphthalene oils, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats) or partially hydrogenated, isoeicosane, squalane, polydecenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers including Indopol L-14, polydecenes such as PURESYN 10, and mixtures thereof.

By silicone oil or silicone oil is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially comprising Si-O groups. The silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be phenyl silicone oils (phenyl silicone is understood to mean an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group), non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising groups alkyl or alkoxy, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms. Among the phenyl silicone oils mention may be made of Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes.

The apolar oil may also be chosen from fluorinated oils (an oil containing at least one fluorine atom) such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils. .

According to one embodiment, the apolar oil is a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil which may advantageously be chosen from saturated, linear or branched alkanes. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). It is also possible to define a non-volatile oil as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2.

According to a particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one glossy oil. Preferably, the glossy oil is nonvolatile. Shiny oils are usually apolar. However, some are polar. Thus, the proportion of glossy and polar oils in the fatty phase can be limited, the composition according to the invention being free from polar oils with a molecular weight of less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

The gloss oil preferably has a high molecular weight of from 650 to 10,000 g / mol, and preferably from 750 to 7500 g / mol.

The gloss oil that can be used in the present invention can be chosen from: lipophilic polymers such as: polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H- 300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, 10-hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), VISEAL 20000 sold or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as : the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer ANTARON VU216 sold or manufactured by ISP (M W = 7300 g / mol), esters such as: linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol), esters hydroxyls such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965 g / mol), aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol), esters of fatty alcohol or branched fatty acids at C24-C28 such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697 g / mol), triisostearate of glyceryl (MM = 891 g / mol), glyceryl tri-2-tetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 (MW = 1232 g / mol) or alternatively pentaerythrityl tetra decyl 2-tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g / mol), a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride d carboxylic acid (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, such as castor oil of succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech, the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters of the general formula HO-R 5 - (- 000-R 2 -COO-R 6 -) h-OH, in which: R 5 represents a residue of diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of the dilinoleic diacid R 6 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular the dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 and DD-DA7, silicone oils such as phenyl silicones (also called phenyl silicone oil), such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethic ones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes; oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (MW = 820 g / mol), and mixtures thereof. The gloss oil may also be a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride oligomer and saturated diacid. Such an oligomer is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a saturated diacid. According to the invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain constituting it does not contain any unsaturation, namely a carbon-carbon double bond. The term "diacid" is intended to mean a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl functions -COOH. The diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids. Similarly, within the meaning of the invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of several oligomers. Among the saturated diacids that may be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid. .

More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) diacid: ## STR2 ##

R1 R1 R1 C = O CO = CO

= O O O I I CH2 CH CH2 O O

(B) in which R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising, for example, from 1 to 12 atoms of carbon;

R1 preferably represents a group (CH2) n-, where n may vary from 1 to 20 and especially from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12;

R2 preferably represents a group (CH2) n, CH3, where m may vary from 0 to 11 and in particular from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9; (A) According to one embodiment n = 10 and m = 5, and the group represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (major component of hydrogenated castor oil); X 1 is a linear or branched alkylene group such as for example a linear alkylene group (CH 2) X, where x may vary from 1 to 30 and in particular from 3 to 15. When the diacid is sebacic acid, x is equal to 8 The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12. The oligoester hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid is marketed by the company CRODA under different names depending on the degree of polymerization. Among the oligoesters formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, that having a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name CROMADOL CWS-5 and that having a degree of polymerization of about 9, 5 is available under the trade name CROMADOL CWS-10, marketed by Croda Japan KK. The oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid sold under the name CRODABOND-CSA (MW = 3500) by the company CRODA is also mentioned. . The oligomer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, particularly from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 30% by weight, for example from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the glossy oil has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.45 to 1.6. In a particular embodiment, the glossy oil is one of the dilinoleic diacid esters and of dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 and DD-DA7.

The composition may contain at least one pasty compound.

Solid body qras Advantageously, the fatty phase may comprise at least one solid fatty substance such as a pasty fatty substance or a wax.

Pasty fatty substance For the purposes of the present invention, pasty substance is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. liquid and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the rate of heating of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company. TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty compound is preferably selected from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from - lanolin and its derivatives - polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof, pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), the pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: 15 PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether mixture, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soya oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, a mixture in which the constituents are in a ratio by weight of 46/46/8. : 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil. - Polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds - Polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, especially: • Homopolymers of olefins (such as vinyl polylaurate) • Olefin copolymers • Homopolymers and copolymers of dienes hydrogenated linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups oligomers homo and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50 diols, and / or mixtures thereof.

The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22). mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the tradename ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol - the arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives - pentaerythritol esters - non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a polyacid linear or branched C 4 -C 50 carboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; - the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of a hydroxycarboxylic acid ester aliphatic by an aliphatic carboxylic acid.

The aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, acid tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, acid isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.

The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) partial or total esters of C2-C16 aliphatic polyols reacted with mono or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono or poly carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic ester esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 1 (1/1) or oil monoisostearate hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2) or hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate, - ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3) or hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment, the pasty compound (s) preferably represents 0.1 to 80%, better still 0.5 to 60%, better still 1 to 30% and better still 1 to 20% by weight of the composition. .

According to a second embodiment, the composition is free of pasty fatty substances.

Wax (s) According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one wax. The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by DESERT WHALE under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50, hydrogenated sunflower oil , hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company HETERENE. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and 22L73 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2792190. As wax, a C20-25 C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or in mixed. Such a wax is in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P and Kester Wax K 80 P by the company Koster Keunen. As micro-waxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of carnauba micro-waxes such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350 by the company Micro Powders, and synthetic wax waxes such as that marketed. under the name MicroEase 114S by the company Micro Powders, the micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300 and 310 by the company Micro Powders, the micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325 by the company Micro POWDERS, polyethylene micro-waxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200, 220, 220L and 250S by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene micro waxes such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519 and 519 L by the company MICRO POWDERS.

According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular it may contain from 0.5 to 20% by weight. %, more particularly from 1 to 15%.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of wax.

The polyester introduced into the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a satisfactory gloss of said composition. The inventors have however been able to show that this gloss could be particularly enhanced when said polyester is mixed with a solvent (s) in which it is not or only slightly soluble. Thus, in a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition as described above, comprising at least one solvent in which the polyester is partially or totally insoluble.

In order to determine the solubility of the liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol in a particular solvent, and thus to select the solvents in which the polyester is partially or totally insoluble, use is made of Preferably the following protocol: - in a container, we weigh a quantity Q of the solvent that we want to test; the mass of the container is raised after insertion of a magnetic bar if it is planned to carry out a mixture by magnetic stirring; - The polyester is gradually incorporated whose solubility must be evaluated in the container, preferably with magnetic stirring; - As soon as a haze appears in the mixture, we weigh the amount of polyester introduced and thus calculate its solubility rate.

The polyester will be considered totally soluble in a given solvent if 100% by weight of polyester can be introduced into the solvent (i.e., if the polyester can be added in a Q amount) while keeping a clear appearance and homogeneous. The polyester will be considered totally insoluble in a solvent if an opaque whitish mixture is obtained as soon as 0.5% by weight of polyester is added to the solvent. For the purposes of the invention, a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol is considered to be partially insoluble in a solvent if said polyester is not soluble to more than 60% in said solvent. The polyester will be considered insoluble at more than 60% if more than 0.6 Q of polyester can not be introduced into the solvent, the addition of a higher amount of polyester resulting in the formation of an opaque mixture and / or whitish.

The polyesters used in the present invention are totally soluble, especially in fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and / or short esters (see below the list of solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention), and mixtures thereof. . In particular, the polyesters used in the invention are totally soluble in isostearic acid, linolenic acid, octyldodecanol and isononyl isononanoate. The polyesters introduced into the composition of the invention are partially or completely insoluble in silicone oils and in hydrocarbon-based oils as defined below, and in particular in a polyisobutene such as Parleam (hydrogenated polyisobutene), PDMS no volatile and phenyl silicone oils, including phenyltrimethicone and trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane. Among the solvents in which the polyesters employed are partially insoluble, there may be mentioned diisostearate malate, sweet almond oil and dilinoleic diacid esters and dimer dilinoleic diols sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 and DD-DA7.

The amount of solvent in which the polyester is partially or totally insoluble can vary to a large extent and depends in particular on the desired dosage and the desired effects. It depends in particular on the desired brilliance. Advantageously, and to give an order of magnitude, the amount of solvent in which the polyester is partially or totally insoluble is between 5 and 80% by weight, preferably between 8% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is understood that this amount will however be limited by the amount of polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000 that can be introduced into the composition according to the invention.

Dyestuffs The composition according to the invention contains at least one coloring agent (also called dyestuff) which may be chosen in particular from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, flakes and mixtures thereof.

The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. .

Monochromatic Coloring Agents The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one goniochromatic coloring agent, which may have magnetic properties if appropriate.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic coloring agent" denotes a coloring agent which makes it possible, when the composition is spread on a support, to obtain a color path in the plane a * b * of the CIE 1976 color space. which corresponds to a variation Dh of the hue angle h of at least 20 ° when the angle of observation is varied with respect to the normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of incidence of 45 ° light. The color path can be measured for example by means of an INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand spectrogoniorflectometer and GON 360 GONIOMETER reference, after the first composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 μm by means of a automatic spreader on an ERICHSEN brand contrast card and Typ 24/5, the measurement being made on the black background of the card. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS , ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti , Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry at the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures are for example the following structures: Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). The liquid crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. Examples of goniochromatic liquid crystal particles that may be used are those sold by the company Chenix and those sold under the name HELICONE HC by the company Wacker. As goniochromatic coloring agent, it is also possible to use certain nacres, pigments with effects on a synthetic substrate, in particular substrate type alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide, aluminum, or interferential holographic flakes from a polyterephthalate film. The ratio of the mass proportion of the magnetic pigments to the proportion of goniochromatic coloring agent is for example between 1/4 and 4, being for example between 1/2 and 2, for example close to 1. in addition to have dispersed goniochromatic fibers. Such fibers may have a length less than 80 pm, for example.

Diffracting Elements The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one diffractive pigment, which may have magnetic properties if appropriate. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diffractive pigment" denotes a pigment capable of producing a color variation according to the angle of observation when illuminated by white light, because of the presence of a structure which diffracts light. . A diffractive pigment may comprise a diffraction grating, capable for example of diffracting in defined directions an incident monochromatic light ray.

The diffraction grating may comprise a periodic pattern, in particular a line, the distance between two adjacent patterns being of the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of the incident light.

When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction grating will separate the different spectral components of the light and produce a rainbow effect. We can usefully refer to the structure of diffracting pigments in the article Pigments Exhibiting Diffractive Effects by Alberto Argoitia and Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum Coaters, 45th Annual Technical Conference Proceedings 2002. The diffractive pigment can be made with patterns having different profiles, in particular triangular, symmetrical or not, in crenellations, of constant width or not, sinusoidal. The spatial frequency of the network and the depth of the patterns will be chosen according to the degree of separation of the different orders desired. The frequency can vary for example between 500 and 3000 lines per mm. Preferably, the particles of the diffractive pigment each have a flattened shape, and in particular are platelet-shaped. The same pigment particle may comprise two crossed diffraction gratings, perpendicular or otherwise. The diffractive pigment may have a multilayer structure comprising a layer of a reflective material, covered at least on one side with a layer of a dielectric material. The latter can impart better rigidity and durability to the diffractive pigment. The dielectric material may then be chosen for example from the following materials: MgF 2, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, AlF 3, CeF 3, LaF 3, NdF 3, SmF 2, BaF 2, CaF 2, LiF and their combinations. The reflective material may be chosen for example from metals and their alloys and also from non-metallic reflective materials. Among the metals that can be used include Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr and their materials, combinations or alloys. Such a reflective material may alone constitute the diffractive pigment which will then be monolayer. Alternatively, the diffractive pigment may comprise a multilayer structure comprising a core of a dielectric material covered with a reflective layer at least on one side, or even completely encapsulating the core. A layer of a dielectric material may also cover the reflective layer (s). The dielectric material used is then preferably inorganic, and may be chosen for example from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides and their combinations. The dielectric material may be in the crystalline, semicrystalline or amorphous state. The dielectric material, in this configuration, may for example be selected from the following materials: MgF 2, SiO 2, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, TiO 2, WO, AlN, BN, B 4 C, WC, TiC, TiN, N 4 Si 3, ZnS, glass particles , diamond-like carbons and their combinations. Alternatively, the diffractive pigment may be composed of a preformed dielectric or ceramic material such as a natural lamella mineral, for example peroskovite mica or talc, or synthetic lamellae formed from glass, alumina, SiO2, carbon, iron oxide / mica, mica coated with BN, BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride, and their combinations. In place of a layer of dielectric material, other materials improving the mechanical properties may be suitable. Such materials may include silicone, metal silicides, semiconductor materials formed from Group III, IV and V elements, metals having a centered cubic crystal structure, cermet compositions or materials, semi-conductors -conductors, and their varied associations.

The diffractive pigment used may in particular be chosen from those described in US patent application US 2003/0031870 published on February 13, 2003. A diffractive pigment may comprise, for example, the following structure: MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2, a diffractive pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver by the company FLEX PRODUCTS, or SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver FG. The proportion by weight of the MgF 2 can be between 80 and 95% of the total weight of the pigment. The amount of diffractive pigment may vary, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, for example from 0.1 to 5%.

The size of the diffractive pigment may be, for example, between 5 and 200 μm, more preferably between 5 and 100 μm, for example between 5 and 30 μm. The thickness of the diffractive pigment particles may be less than or equal to 3 μm, more preferably 2 μm, for example of the order of 1 μm.

Reflective particles The composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, reflective particles, in particular flakes, among others, whether magnetic or not. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "reflective particles" denotes particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical and chemical natures, and the surface state, enable them to reflect the incident light. This reflection can, if necessary, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when it is applied to the support to make up, highlight points visible to the naked eye is ie brighter points that contrast with their surroundings while appearing to shine. The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

The reflective particles may be present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 3% to 10% by weight. . These particles may have various forms, in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical.

The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a reflective material. When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, including synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides. When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, these may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metal material. . The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.

More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting. The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material. Reflective particles are described in particular in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710. Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a metal layer, there may also be mentioned particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver, also called white nacres. Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company. The reflective particles, irrespective of their shape, may also be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic material, in particular a metal oxide chosen, for example, from titanium oxides. , especially TiO2, iron including Fe2O3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following materials: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2 , Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2 and mixtures or alloys thereof. By way of example of such particles, mention may be made of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or coated glass particles of brown iron oxide, of titanium oxide, of oxide of titanium dioxide or of tin or one of their mixtures such as those sold under the trademark REFLECKS by the company ENGELHARD.

Nacres The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nacre, magnetic or not. By nacre, it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye. especially of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. 25 ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica marketed by SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the nacres that may be introduced into the composition, mention may be made in particular of the gold-colored nacres sold especially by the company ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica) , Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

Dyes, organic pigments and lacquers The composition according to the invention may also comprise organic dyes or pigments. The dyes may be fat-soluble or water-soluble. The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, 13-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, Violet DC 2, Orange DC 5, yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue.

The dyes may for example represent from 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the composition, or even from 0.1 to 6%, when present. Organic lakes are organic pigments formed of a dye attached to a substrate.

Lacquers which are also called organic pigments can be chosen from the following materials and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine; organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane and fluoran dyes. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of those known under the following names: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10, D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6; the organic lakes may be insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic dyes , quinoliniques, triphenylmethane, fluoran, these dyes may comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.

Organic lacquers may also be supported by an organic carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of the following denominations: D & C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Potassium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 8 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 10 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 19 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 21 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 21 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 22 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 27 Barium Lake , D & C Red # 27 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 27 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 28 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 30 Lake, D & C Red # 31 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 33 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 34 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 36 Lake, D & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake, D & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, D & C Green # 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Orange # 10 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 17 Barium Lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 10 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 4 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned above are mentioned in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, whose Content is incorporated herein by reference.

Composite elements The composition according to the invention may also comprise composite pigments. The composite pigment may be composed in particular of particles comprising: an inorganic core, magnetic or otherwise; at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic dyestuff. At least one binder can advantageously contribute to the fixing of the organic dyestuff on the inorganic nucleus.

The composite pigment particles may have various shapes. These particles may in particular be platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical, and may be hollow or solid. Platelet-shaped means particles whose ratio of the largest dimension to the thickness is greater than or equal to 5. A composite pigment may have, for example, a specific surface area of between 1 and 1000 m 2 / g, especially between 10 and 600 m2 / g, and in particular between 20 and 400 m2 / g. The specific surface is the value measured by the BET method.

The inorganic core of the composite pigment may be of any form suitable for fixing particles of organic dyestuff, for example spherical, globular, granular, polyhedral, acicular, fusiform, flattened in the form of flakes, grains of rice, tortoiseshell as well as a combination of these forms, this list not being limiting.

The ratio of the largest dimension of the core to its smallest dimension may be between 1 and 50. The inorganic core may have a size of between about 1 nm and about 100 nm, or even between about 5 nm and about 75 nm, by for example between about 10 nm and about 50 nm.

The inorganic nucleus may be made of a material chosen from the nonlimiting list comprising metal salts and metal oxides, in particular oxides of titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron, ferric blue, aluminum and aluminum. chromium, alumina, glasses, ceramics, graphite, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof. The oxides of titanium, in particular TiO 2, of iron, in particular Fe 2 O 3, of cerium, of zinc and of aluminum, the silicates, in particular the aluminosilicates and the borosilicates, are very particularly suitable. The inorganic core may have a specific surface area, measured by the BET method, for example between about 1 m 2 / g and about 1000 m 2 / g, more preferably between about 10 m 2 / g and about 600 m 2 / g, for example between about 20 m 2 / g m2 / g and about 400 m2 / g. The inorganic core can be colored, if necessary.

The organic dyestuff may be as defined above. The binder of the composite pigment can be of any type since it allows the organic dyestuff to adhere to the surface of the inorganic core. The binder can in particular be chosen from a non-limiting list comprising silicone materials, polymeric, oligomeric or similar materials, and in particular from organosilanes, fluoroalkylated organosilanes and polysiloxanes, for example polymethylhydrogenosiloxane, as well as various coupling agents, such as coupling agents based on silanes, titanates, aluminates, zirconates and mixtures thereof.

The coloring agent present in the composition may comprise a photochromic dyestuff or photochromic agent.

Photochromic agents In general, a photochromic coloring agent is a coloring agent having the property of changing color when illuminated by ultraviolet light and restoring its original color when it is no longer illuminated by this light. or to go from an uncolored state to a colored state and vice versa. In other words, such an agent has different hues depending on whether it is illuminated by light containing a certain amount of UV radiation as in sunlight or artificial light. It will be useful to refer to the examples of photochromic agents described in EP 1 410 786.

Thermochromic Aqents For example, the thermochromic agent sold under the reference KROMAFAST YELLOW 5GX 02- can be used by KROMACHEM LTD.

Other coloring agents The composition according to the invention may also comprise piezochromic compounds, especially tribochromic compounds, or solvatochromes.

Additives The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additional additive usually used in the cosmetics field, such as water, antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, structuring agents / thickeners such as plasticizers, film-forming polymers, lipophilic gelling agents or nonaqueous liquid compounds, aqueous phase gelling agents, dispersants, cosmetic active agents. These additives, with the exception of water which may represent from 0 to 70% by weight and, for example, from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, may be present in the composition at 0.0005 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and more preferably from 0.001 to 10%.

Structuring agent / thickener The composition of the product according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the waxes possibly present, a structuring agent chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

Semi-crystalline polymers Semi-crystalline polymers are understood to mean compounds comprising at least two units, preferably at least 3 units and more especially at least 10 repeating units. Semi-crystalline polymer is understood to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part, a crystallizable pendant chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone, and an amorphous part in the backbone and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular fusion (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. By "sequence" is generally meant at least 5 identical repetition patterns. The crystallizable sequence (s) are then of a different chemical nature from the amorphous sequence (s). The semi-crystalline polymer has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C (especially from 30 ° C to 80 ° C), preferably from 30 ° C to 60 ° C. This melting temperature is a first order change of state temperature. This melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.). Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) to which the invention applies have a number average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1,000. Advantageously, the semicrystalline polymer (s) of the composition of the invention have a number-average molecular mass Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, better still from 4,000 to 150,000, especially less than 100,000, and better still from 4,000 to 99,000. have a number-average molecular weight greater than 5,600, for example from 5,700 to 99,000. By "crystallizable chain or block" is meant in the sense of the invention a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from amorphous state in the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable pendant chain" can be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. The semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof. Such polymers are described for example in the document EP 1396259. According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain selected from saturated C14 to C14 alkyl (meth) acrylates. C22.

As a particular example of a structuring semi-crystalline polymer that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer products from Landec, described in the brochure "Intelimer Polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). They carry crystallizable side chains and have the above formula X.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents The gelling agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, sold under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to mention the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface with a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called silica silylate according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530 by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R972 references, and Aerosil R974 by the DEGUSSA company, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C and Trefil E-506C. by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 and JK 113 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the diblock, triblock or radial type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton by the company Shell Chemical Co., or else of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by PENRECO under the name Versagel as per for example the mixture of butylene triblock copolymer / ethylene / styrene and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one fatty chain. pendant and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619 whose content is incorporated by reference; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657 whose contents are incorporated by reference.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

Active ingredients The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional active ingredient. By active is meant a compound having a cosmetic and / or dermatological effect, especially on the lips. This active agent may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic. The asset can be water soluble.

Thus, the active agent present in the composition according to the invention may be independently chosen from: - skin-relaxing agents, - agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, - anti-glycation agents, - anti-irritants, - hydrating agents other than polyhydric alcohols and water-soluble alkoxylated non-ionic polymers, - desquamating agents - pigmentation modifying agents, - NO-synthase inhibitors, - fibroblast proliferation stimulating agents or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, - anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, - soothing agents, - agents acting on the microcirculation, - agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells, - healing agents and - their mixtures.

The amount of active agent (s) is, for example, from 0.0001 to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming agent The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, and preferably at least 3 repeating units. The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

The polymer may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1% to 25% by weight.

In one embodiment, the film-forming organic polymer is at least one polymer chosen from the group comprising: film-forming polymers that are soluble in an organic liquid medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the organic liquid medium comprises at least one oil; dispersible film-forming polymers in an organic solvent medium, in particular polymers in the form of nonaqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; in one embodiment, the nonaqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent; film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, often called latexes; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase; water-soluble film-forming polymers; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase.

Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, silicone polymers, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, polyamide polymers and copolymers, and polyisoprenes.

According to an exemplary implementation of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first sequence and at least a second sequence having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second sequences being interconnected by an intermediate sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block (these polymers are commonly called pseudo-blocks). Advantageously, the first and second sequences and the block polymer are incompatible with each other.

Such polymers are described for example in EP 1411069 or WO04 / 028488.

Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of silicone resin copolymers such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document US 5 162 410 or the silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and a diorganosiloxane as described in document WO 2004/073626.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function.

Charges The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% in weight. By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-R-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap Dow Corning) and Silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads) of Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium arate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen especially from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, vitamins, self-tanning compounds. anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, anti-free radical agents, deodorant agents, sequestering agents, film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially, not impaired by the addition envisaged.

It is understood that the amount of these additional compounds can be adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to damage the desired effect in the context of the present invention.

Cosmetic product or kit According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the combination identified above can be integrated into two compositions, the assembly constituting a cosmetic product. Thus, another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic product for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the lips, comprising a first and a second composition, each of said compositions comprising a physiologically acceptable support, and least first and second compositions comprising the combination of a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer of a and diol and at least one dyestuff, said at least one composition being no additional polar oil with a molecular weight less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The product of the invention may be in particular a makeup product for the skin, nails or hair. The second composition may be applied to the skin or its integuments simultaneously or successively to the application of the first composition.

The liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and a diol as defined above and the dyestuff as defined above are present in the cosmetic product according to the invention in the first and / or in the second composition. The combination of a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer of a and diol and at least one dyestuff is preferably present in the first composition. The polyester defined above can also be present in both compositions in order to benefit from its different properties in both compositions. It is advantageously present in the amounts specified above.

The product according to the invention comprises at least two compositions each comprising a physiologically acceptable support. Said physiologically acceptable carrier comprises physiologically acceptable (in particular cosmetically acceptable) compounds, namely non-toxic and capable of being applied to the skin, integuments or lips of human beings. Said supports generally comprise compounds as described above. Said compositions of the product according to the invention may be packaged separately or together in one and the same packaging article or in at least two separate packaging articles. Preferably, these compositions are packaged separately and advantageously in separate packaging articles.

The invention also relates to a makeup kit containing a cosmetic makeup product as defined above, wherein the different compositions are packaged separately and are advantageously accompanied by appropriate application means. These means may be brushes, brushes, pens, pencils, felts, feathers, sponges, tubes and / or foam tips.

Each first and second composition may have the appearance of a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and especially stick or cup or compacted solid.

Each composition can be physically separated in the same packaging article, for example in a bi-compartmented pen, the first composition, which can be a composition comprising a base formulation, being delivered by one end of the pen and the second composition, which may constitute a composition applied to the first composition (composition of the top, being delivered by the other end of the pen, each end being sealed in particular by a cap.) Alternatively, one of the compositions may constitute the heart of a stick and the second composition forming a ring around this heart.In a variant, the packaging article is in the form of a disk or a cylinder, the two compositions constituting two separate parts of said disk or cylinder.

Alternatively, each of the compositions may be packaged in a different packaging article.

Preferably, the first composition is in liquid or pasty form, which is highly desirable in the case of a lipstick or eyeliner. Advantageously, the first composition is applied in the first layer (base layer).

The first composition of the product according to the invention may therefore constitute a base layer applied to the keratin material and the second composition a top layer. It is possible to apply under the first layer an under layer having the constitution or not of the second layer.

In particular, the base layer is a lipstick, a foundation, a mascara, a lip gloss, an eyeliner, a nail polish, a care product for nails, a body makeup product, and the top layer (or top coat) a care product or protection. The first composition constituting the base layer generally comprises at least one dyestuff. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the first composition, intended to be used as a base layer, contains a combination of a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of a diol and at least one dyestuff, said first composition being free of additional polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. According to a variant of this embodiment, the second composition also comprises a polyester according to the invention, as described above. According to another variant, the second composition does not comprise polyester according to the invention.

When the second composition is intended to be used as a top layer, it advantageously comprises a phenyl silicone oil and a solid fatty substance.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care or makeup of the skin and / or the lips and / or integuments of a human being, comprising the steps of applying to the skin, the lips and / or the integuments a first layer of a first composition as described above, then to apply, on all or part of the first layer, a second layer of a second composition distinct from the first comprising a phenyl silicone oil and a solid fatty substance the first composition comprising the combination of a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer of a and diol and at least one dyestuff, said at least one composition being free from additional polar oil with a molecular weight less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The product according to the invention can be applied to the skin of the face as well as the scalp and the body, the lips, the interior of the lower eyelids, and integuments such as nails, eyelashes, hair, eyebrows. , even the hairs.

The second composition can form patterns and can be applied with a pen, pencil or any other instrument (sponge, finger, brush, brush, pen). This makeup can also be applied to make-up accessories such as false nails, false eyelashes, wigs or patches or adherent patches on the skin or lips (fly type).

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic product defined above for improving the dispersion properties of dyestuffs and gloss of a make-up on the skin and / or the lips and / or integuments.

First composition Preferably, the first composition comprises a base layer formulation for a cosmetic makeup or care composition. It advantageously comprises the combination of a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer of a and diol and of at least one dyestuff, said at least one composition being free of oil polar additional molecular weight less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. It can include components such as those described previously. In particular, the first composition may contain at least one non-volatile oil, a filler, a structuring or thickening agent, an active agent, and any additional usual cosmetic ingredient and a mixture thereof.

Second composition When the second composition is intended to be used as a top layer, it advantageously comprises a phenyl silicone oil and a solid fatty substance.

Solid body The second composition of the product according to the invention preferably comprises at least one solid fatty substance as defined above. Phenyl Silicone The second composition preferably comprises at least one phenyl silicone. By phenyl silicone is meant an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group. The phenyl silicone is preferably non-volatile. By nonvolatile means an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mmHg (0. , 13 Pa). Preferably, the molecular weight of the phenyl silicone oil is between 500 and 10,000 g / mol. The silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyls.

Trimethylsiloxysilicates. The silicone oil may correspond to the formula: R R R R Si 1 R 1 Si R 1 Si R R R R R

R 1 Si 1 R in which the groups R independently represent one of the

Another 25 methyl or phenyl. Preferably in this formula, the silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.

According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula ## STR1 ## in which the groups R represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above can be used.

For example, mixtures of organopolysiloxane triphenyl, tetra- or penta-phenyl. According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula Ph Ph Me Si Si Si Si Me Si Me Si Me Me Si Si Me Si Me Si Si Me Si Si Me Si Si Me Si Si Me Si Me Si Si Me Si Me Si Si Me Si Me Si Si Me Me Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used.

According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula Me in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) (Ph). According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula Me Me OR 'Mei SiiHuSi] y [Oi Sii WhereSi (CH3) 3 Me Me Ph in which -OR represents -O-SiMe3, y is from 1 to 1000 and z is from 1 to 1000.

The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of formula (VI) below: in which - R 1 to R 10, independently of one another, are linear or cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydrocarbon radicals in C1 -C30, m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum 'm + n + q' is not equal to 0. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + q' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + p + q' is between 1 and 900, more preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of formula (VII) below: ## STR1 ## in which: R1 to R5 wherein R1 to R5 R6, independently of one another, are cyclic or branched, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals of C 1 -C 30, - m, n and p are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, C 1 -C 30, in particular C 1 -C 12, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical. In particular, R1 to R6 may be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, one can have m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (VII).

A phenyl silicone oil of formula (VI) having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 / s ( 5 to 1000 cSt). As phenylated phenylated oil of formula (VII), it is possible especially to use phenyltrimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône Poulenc (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones such as oils Belsil, including Belsil PDM 1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20cSt) from Wacker. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C.

The non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from silicones of formula: ## STR1 ## in which: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a radical vinyl, n and p being chosen so as to impart to the oil a molecular weight of less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150 000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g / mol.

The phenyl silicone oil of the second composition is advantageously chosen in such a way that it improves at least one cosmetic property of the first composition, when it is applied alone to said keratin material. The second composition may especially improve the comfort of the first composition.

According to one mode of implementation, the first or the second composition, or both, are of continuous fat phase and preferably in anhydrous form and may contain less than 5% of water, and even more preferably less than 1% of water. relative to the total weight of the first or second composition. The second composition may comprise other components such as those previously described. In particular, the second composition may contain at least one dyestuff, a volatile or non-volatile oil, a filler, a structuring or thickening agent, an active ingredient, any usual additional cosmetic ingredient, as defined above, or a mixture thereof. In a particular embodiment, it advantageously contains a phenyl silicone and a wax.

In another particular embodiment, the second composition comprises a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer of a diol. This composition may also comprise at least one dyestuff. The first composition and / or the second composition are chosen so that the product, once applied to the keratin materials, has satisfactory gloss, gloss and comfort properties. Form of the Composition The applications of the compositions according to the invention are numerous and relate to all cosmetic products comprising a colrante material and more particularly lipsticks. The composition of the invention may be in the form of a solid composition, compacted or cast, in particular as a stick or a cup, a paste or a liquid. Advantageously, it is in solid form, namely in hard form (not flowing under its own weight) including cast or compacted, for example stick or cup.

It can be in the form of paste, solid or cream. It may be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, an anhydrous, solid or flexible gel, or in the form of a free or compacted powder and even in biphasic form. Preferably, it is in the form of an oily continuous phase composition and in particular anhydrous; in this case, it may contain an aqueous phase at a level of less than 5%. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition, colored, of skincare, in the form of a composition sun protection or make-up removal or in the form of a hygienic composition. If it contains cosmetic active ingredients, it can then be used as a basis for care or non-therapeutic treatment for the skin such as the hands or face or for the lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from the cold and / or the sun and / or wind), artificial tanning product of the skin.

The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored make-up product of the skin, in particular the face such as a foundation, a blush, an eye shadow, an eye shadow or an eyeshadow, a concealer, a blush, a loose or compacted powder, or a body make-up product such as a semi-permanent tattoo product or lip makeup such as a lipstick, a lip liner or a lip gloss. lips, optionally having care properties or non-therapeutic treatment, a make-up product for integuments such as, for example, a nail polish, a mascara, an eyeliner, a hair coloring or care product.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a lipstick or a lip gloss.

Naturally, the composition of the invention must be physiologically acceptable (in particular cosmetically acceptable), namely non-toxic and capable of being applied to the skin, integuments or lips of human beings. By cosmetically acceptable, is meant pleasant taste, touch, appearance and / or odor, applicable for several days for several months.

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetics field.

The present invention also relates to a process for making up or caring for the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, comprising applying the composition according to the invention described above to the skin, the lips and / or the superficial body growths. . The following examples are intended to illustrate in a nonlimiting manner the object of the present invention. Quantities are given as a percentage by mass.

10 EXAMPLES

Example 1: Lipstick Stick Formula A corresponds to a composition according to the invention in which the polyester used is the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinioleic acid / butanediol copolymer). INCIUE Formula A Cl 19140 0.85 Cl 77491 (and) Cl 77492 0.95 Cl 42090 0.20 Cl 15850 0.45 Cl 77891 0.20 CERA MICROCRYSTALLINA 2,67 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 11,03 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 5 , 01 C20-40 ALKYL STEARATE 4.45 MICA (and) Cl 77891 0.50 MICA (and) Cl 77891 1 MICA (and) Cl 77891 2.80 VP / EICOSENE COPOLYMER 5 DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL 11.03 COPOLYMER 5 PHENYL TRIMETHICONE 5.01 TRIMETHYL PENTAPHENYL qs TRISILOXANE Formula A is very shiny, very slippery and comfortable on application and after application. She is sweet and creamy. It does not leave a feeling of tightness on the lips.

Example 2: Lip Gloss Formula B corresponds to a composition according to the invention wherein the polyester used is the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinioleic acid / butanediol copolymer).

INCIUE Formula B Cl 15850 0.23 Cl 77891 0.15 Cl 77491 0.21 Cl 77492 0.05 Cl 77499 0.04 ALKYDE 20 ALKYDE 6 POLYVINYL LAURATE 6 ALLYL STEARATENA COPOLYMER 7 DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL 10 COPOLYMER TRIMETHYL PENTAPHENYL qsp TRISILOXANE Formula B is very pleasant to apply, just fine in the slippery, extremely soft and creamy, It has a good thickness to the deposit, it is glossy, little sticky, the film obtained on the lips is quite thick and homogeneous, and is well present on the lips.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic or skin care composition comprising: i) a fatty phase; ii) at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; and iii) at least one coloring matter; said composition being free of additional polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyester is obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising between 28 and 44 carbon atoms and / or from an unsaturated fatty acid trimer comprising between 42 and 66 carbon atoms. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the diol is a saturated linear diol. 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one oil selected from polar oils, apolar and their mixture, said composition containing at most 15%, preferably at most 10%. %, advantageously at most 5%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the fatty phase of the composition comprises a solvent in which the polyester is totally or partially insoluble. 6. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the said solvent is chosen from polyisobutenes, non-volatile PDMS, phenyltrimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, diisostearate malate, sweet almond oil and diacid esters. dilinoleic and dimeric dilinoleic diols. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the dyestuff is chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, flakes and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the amount of polyester is between 5 and 60% by weight, preferably between 8% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the amount of dyestuff is between 0.02 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising a phenyl silicone oil. 11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising a wax. 20 12. Cosmetic makeup and / or care product for keratinous substances, in particular the lips, comprising a first and a second composition, each of said compositions comprising a physiologically acceptable support, and at least one of the first and second compositions comprising the combination of a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer of a and diol and at least one dyestuff, said at least one composition being free of additional polar weight oil molecular weight less than 1000, or containing at most 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. 30 13. The product as claimed in claim 12, characterized in that the first composition comprises said combination of a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of diol and of at least one dyestuff, said first composition being free of additional molecular oil of less than 1000 molecular weight, or containing at most 15% by weight based on the weight of the composition, the second composition being intended to be applied to the first composition. 14. Product according to claim 13 characterized in that the second composition contains a phenyl silicone oil and at least one solid fatty substance. 15. The product according to claim 14, characterized in that the second composition further comprises a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol. 16. Makeup kit containing a cosmetic makeup product as defined in one of compositions 12 to 15, wherein the different compositions are packaged separately.