WO2020141276A1

WO2020141276A1 - Solid cosmetic composition consisting of a solid continuous aqueous phase

Info

Publication number: WO2020141276A1
Application number: PCT/FR2019/053289
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marlène PARCOLLET; Armelle MASANELLI; Valérie de la Poterie
Original assignee: Lvmh Recherche
Priority date: 2018-12-31
Filing date: 2019-12-23
Publication date: 2020-07-09
Also published as: FR3091172A1; FR3091172B1

Abstract

The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition consisting of a solid continuous aqueous phase containing at least three hydrophilic gelling agents selected from natural or synthetic polysaccharides. The invention also relates to a method for producing a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, as well as to a method for applying make up to and/or caring for the skin of the body and/or face using a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention. The invention also relates to a stick or a solid gel cast into a container or a pot, and more particularly to a lipstick, a foundation, and a sunscreen stick comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Description

Solid cosmetic composition consisting of a solid aqueous continuous phase

Technical area

The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition consisting of a solid aqueous continuous phase comprising at least three hydrophilic gelling agents chosen from natural or synthetic polysaccharides. The invention also relates to a process for the preparation of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention. The invention also relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention for making up and / or caring for the skin of the body and / or of the face. Finally, the invention relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin of the body and / or of the face using a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Prior art

The cosmetic industry has always been in search of compositions producing surprising effects. They may be compositions having an original visual appearance, for example a transparent solid composition in which solid particles of different colors can be dispersed. It can also be compositions whose performance is surprising on application.

FR 2 794 999 describes a solid aqueous gel comprising i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii) a pulverulent phase comprising at least one filler with deformable particles, the hydrophilic gelling agent being present at a content less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.

However, the presence of a powdery filler in the aqueous gel harms the transparency of the composition and affects comfort on application.

It is therefore advantageous to be able to reduce, or even eliminate, the particulate charge of solid cosmetic compositions made up of a solid aqueous phase. To date, there are no solid cosmetic compositions consisting of a solid aqueous continuous phase comprising water and at least three hydrophilic gelling agents chosen from natural or synthetic polysaccharides. In fact, the compositions of the prior art comprising polysaccharides do not make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition whose texture is sufficiently rigid to be prepared in different forms, for example in the form of a stick while remaining flexible enough to be able to be removed. easily by rubbing or using a sponge and applied comfortably to the skin. Thus, a first problem underlying the invention aims to obtain a solid cosmetic composition at room temperature consisting of a solid aqueous continuous phase comprising water and at least three hydrophilic gelling agents chosen from natural or synthetic polysaccharides which is both sufficiently rigid to be able to be prepared in the form of a stick and sufficiently flexible to provide a comfort effect during application to the skin.

In addition, the provision of cosmetic compositions having a visual attractiveness and a pleasant and surprising feeling when applied to the skin remains a constant objective. A second problem underlying the invention consists in obtaining a solid composition producing a surprising effect on application.

Statement of the invention

According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition at room temperature, characterized in that it consists of a solid aqueous continuous phase comprising water and at least three hydrophilic gelling agents chosen from polysaccharides natural or synthetic.

Within the meaning of the invention, by ambient temperature is meant a temperature between 20 and 25 ° C. Unexpectedly, the inventors observed that it was possible to prepare a solid aqueous cosmetic composition comprising at least three natural or synthetic polysaccharides, the texture of which is sufficiently rigid to be able to be prepared in different forms, in particular in stick shape. Within the meaning of the invention, the cosmetic composition is considered to be solid when it does not deform or flow under its own weight.

Another advantage of the solid cosmetic composition of the invention is linked to its very easy application and to its surprising texture at the time of application to the skin. The surprising sensory freshness effect linked to the presence of an aqueous continuous phase is greater than with conventional emulsions. With an identical water content, the solid cosmetic composition of the invention provides a much more marked freshness effect than an identical composition in the form of an emulsion in which the freshness effect is attenuated.

The cosmetic composition of the invention can also be prepared according to a process allowing conditioning of the cosmetic composition as soon as it leaves the process, without any additional step. The process of the invention is therefore easily industrializable.

Within the meaning of the invention, the aqueous continuous phase is considered to be solid when it has a hardness defined by a compressive strength greater than or equal to 60 g at 20 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 80 g at 20 ° C, after penetration of a 5 mm diameter cylindrical mobile in said phase at a thickness of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.s ¹ . Advantageously, when the cosmetic composition is in the form of a stick, the continuous aqueous phase has a hardness defined by a compressive strength greater than or equal to 80 g at 20 ° C. The hardness of the aqueous continuous phase is preferably defined by a compressive strength less than or equal to 450 g, more preferably less than or equal to 400 g, and even more preferably less than or equal to 350 g, at 20 ° C.

The inventors have observed that the nature of the polysaccharides of the aqueous continuous phase can also have an influence not only on the ease of application of the cosmetic composition of the invention, but also on its final properties.

Hydrophilic gelling agent:

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least three natural or synthetic polysaccharides.

The natural or synthetic polysaccharides are advantageously chosen from agar-agar (such as Ina Agar CS 83 sold by Iwase Cosfa), gellan gum (such as Kelcogel® CG-LA sold by Azelis) , xanthan gum (such as Rhodicare® T sold by Solvay Novecare or Keltrol CG LAXT sold by CP Keltro), carrageenans (such as Satiagum ™ VPC 430 sold by Cargill Beauty), cellulose and its derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose (such as Klucel® GF sold by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcellulose, corn starch, carboxymethyl cellulose ethers (such as Blanose ™ 7H3SF sold by Ashland), polysaccharide alkaligens (such as Alcasealan sold by Iwase Cosfa), and their mixtures.

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention advantageously comprises at least agar-agar; it is the most preferred natural or synthetic polysaccharide.

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention advantageously comprises at least gellan gum; it is the most preferred natural or synthetic polysaccharide after agar.

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention advantageously comprises at least xanthan gum; it is the most preferred natural or synthetic polysaccharide after agar-agar and gellan gum, respectively.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least two natural polysaccharides chosen from agar-agar, gellan gum and xanthan gum. According to another particularly advantageous embodiment, the solid aqueous phase of the composition of the invention comprises at least two natural polysaccharides chosen from agar-agar, and gellan gum or xanthan gum.

According to an even more advantageous embodiment, the solid aqueous phase of the composition of the invention consists of agar-agar, gellan gum and xanthan gum.

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention advantageously comprises:

from 0.1 to 5%, preferably from 1 to 3%, by weight of agar-agar relative to the total weight of the composition,

from 0.05 to 1%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%, by weight of gellan gum relative to the total weight of the composition, and

- From 0.05 to 1%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%, by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio between the agar-agar and gellan gum is advantageously between 2/1 and 10/1, even more advantageously between 5/1 and 8/1, and even more advantageously is equal to 7/1.

The weight ratio between the agar and the xanthan gum is advantageously between 2/1 and 10/1, even more advantageously between 5/1 and 8/1, and even more advantageously is equal to 7/1.

The content of natural or synthetic polysaccharides in the aqueous continuous phase is advantageously at least 0.3%, preferably at least 0.5%, more preferably at least 1.0%, again more preferably at least 1.2%, and even more advantageously at least 1.5%, by weight relative to the weight of the aqueous continuous phase.

The amount of natural or synthetic polysaccharides present in the aqueous continuous phase depends on the nature of the natural or synthetic polysaccharides, and is determined so that the aqueous continuous phase has a hardness defined by a resistance to compression greater than or equal at 50 g at 20 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 80 g at 20 ° C, after penetration of a cylindrical mobile of 5 mm diameter in said phase at a thickness of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.s ¹ .

The aqueous continuous phase can also comprise at least one glycol, preferably chosen from polyglycols such as pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the glycol is vegetable glycerol.

The glycol content in the aqueous continuous phase advantageously varies from 0 to 50%, preferably from 1 to 30%, and even more preferably from 2 to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous continuous phase .

The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise at least one pigment and / or a nacre, and preferably at least one organic or inorganic pigment. The pigment and / or mother-of-pearl may have been surface treated, that is to say have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature.

The pigment and / or mother-of-pearl content advantageously varies from 0 to 40% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solid cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition may also comprise in the solid aqueous phase at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient chosen from UV filters, perfumes, fillers, rheology agents, pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives, humectants, or other functional agents improving texture or comfort on application.

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention may further comprise in the solid aqueous phase cosmetically active agents, in particular for the lips, the effect of which is preferably desquamating, hydrating, emollient, healing, plumping and / or feeding. Examples include tocopherol and its salts, such as phosphates, acetate or tocopherol palmitate, an active ingredient consisting of one or more molecules and / or one or more plant extracts having hydrating properties different from glycols previously mentioned, such as urea, hyaluronic acid and lactic acid or anti-aging agents.

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention is advantageously in the form of a stick or a solid gel poured into a housing or a cup.

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention can also be prepared according to a process allowing conditioning of the easily industrializable cosmetic composition.

Thus, according to a second aspect, the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising the following steps:

a- preparation of a liquid aqueous continuous phase composition by mixing, with stirring, preferably at a temperature ranging from 50 to 110 ° C., hydrophilic gelling agents in water, b- injection of the continuous phase composition aqueous liquid in a mold or a primary packaging unit, and c- cooling to room temperature of the composition obtained at the end of step b-, to obtain a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The third object of the invention relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention for making up and / or caring for the skin of the body and / or the face, and in particular the lips.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic product comprising a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, for example a stick comprising a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention. More particularly, the invention relates to a lipstick, a lip balm, a foundation, a sun stick, comprising a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

According to a particularly preferred variant, a cosmetic product according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the continuous aqueous phase described above, a separate anhydrous phase. This anhydrous phase can be transparent, translucent or even opaque, and colored. It makes it possible to obtain an effect complementary to that of the aqueous continuous phase, such as a visual effect, the hold or the shine.

According to this variant, the anhydrous phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil, and at least one lipophilic structuring agent, which can be chosen from waxes, butters, pasty fatty compounds, and / or lipophilic gelling agents. The preferred lipophilic structuring agents are lipophilic gelling agents, advantageously chosen from amides of L-glutamic acid (glutamides) preferably comprising at least one alkanoyl group comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred lipophilic structuring agents are dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (such as AJK OD2046 sold by Ajinomoto), dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide (such as AJK GP-1 sold by Ajinomoto), and their mixture.

The anhydrous phase can also advantageously comprise at least one pigment and / or a nacre, which can be treated to be dispersible in said anhydrous phase.

According to a preferred variant, a cosmetic product of the invention is a heart-bark stick, and preferably a biphasic lipstick of the heart-bark type. A preferred core-shell stick comprises a peripheral part (“shell”) constituted by the solid aqueous phase of the invention and a central part (“core”) constituted by the anhydrous phase. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of this latter variant, the aqueous phase constituting the shell is translucent, advantageously transparent, and the anhydrous phase constituting the core is colored, which distinguishes it visually from the peripheral part of the stick. In another particularly preferred embodiment, the anhydrous phase is injected into the aqueous continuous phase in the form of spheroids, advantageously colored.

Finally, a last object of the invention relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin of the body and / or the face, and in particular of the lips, comprising the following steps: a'- removal of an amount of solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, in an amount necessary to carry out at least one application, and b'- application of the solid cosmetic composition taken during step a'- on the skin of the body and / or face, especially the lips.

In the case of a cosmetic product comprising a second phase, for example anhydrous, in addition to the solid aqueous continuous phase of the invention, the two phases can be applied simultaneously in a single gesture, as for example in the case of a heart-bark stick, or successively in two gestures.

In addition to the foregoing provisions, the invention also comprises other provisions which will emerge from the additional description which follows, which relates to the preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention, as well as to FIGS. 1 and 2.

Examples

Example 1: Solid aqueous continuous phase according to the invention

Different continuous aqueous solid phases were prepared in the form of sticks according to the following procedure:

- mixture of water and preservative at a temperature of 85 ° C, with stirring,

- adding the hydrophilic gelling agent, and mixing the whole with stirring at 85 ° C for 15 minutes,

- Pouring of the mixture obtained in a pill box with a capacity of 15 ml_ and in a stick of 1 cm in diameter.

The solid aqueous continuous phase compositions of the sticks 1 to 6 tested are presented in Table 1 below: [Table 1]

The% indicated are% by weight.

The agar-agar is the Ina Agar CS 83 sold by Iwase Cosfa.

Gellan gum is Kelcogel® CG-LA sold by Azelis. Xanthan gum is Keltrol CG LAXT sold by Azelis.

The six solid aqueous compositions thus prepared were characterized by measuring the hardness, by visual observation, and by evaluation of the sensoriality.

Measuring the hardness of the sticks: The 15 ml pill dispensers were left at room temperature for 24 hours, then placed in an oven at 20 ° C for 24 hours.

The hardness measurements were carried out using a texturometer (TA-XTPLUS texture analyzer, Stable Microsystems) according to the following parameters:

- driving speed: 1 mm.s ¹ ,

- cylindrical mobile used: cylinder 5 mm in diameter,

- insertion thickness: 10 mm. Three pill organizers were prepared for each aqueous continuous phase and three measurements were carried out per pill organizer, ie nine measurements in total for each aqueous continuous phase.

The aqueous continuous phase is considered to be “solid” within the meaning of the invention when it has a compressive strength greater than or equal to 60 g at 20 ° C., after penetration of a cylindrical mobile of diameter 5 mm in said phase continuous aqueous at a thickness of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.s ¹ .

Visual observation of the sticks:

The 1 cm diameter sticks were left at room temperature for 24 hours.

The sticks were then opened over a length of 2.5 cm, then held horizontally for a period of one minute. The curvature of the sticks in a horizontal position was observed.

The results obtained for sticks 1 to 6 are presented in Table 2 below and in Figure 1:

[Table 2]

Only the sticks 5 and 6 are "solid" within the meaning of the invention and has a curvature in the continuity of the stick mechanism in the horizontal position, while the sticks 1 to 4 collapse.

[0057] Evaluation of the sensoriality of the aqueous continuous phase:

After 24 hours at room temperature, only the sticks 5 and 6 disintegrate perfectly and exhibit good cohesion during spreading (do not break during application). The effect felt on application is an effect of freshness and hydration of the lips.

Example 2: Heart-bark lipstick

The solid aqueous continuous phase according to the formula of stick 5 of Example 1 above was used to prepare a heart-bark lipstick of which it constitutes the peripheral part ("bark"). The internal part (“core”) consists of an anhydrous phase, the composition of which is indicated in Table 3 below.

[Table 3]

The ingredients of the anhydrous phase were heated, mixed and homogenized at a temperature of 85 ° C.

The solid aqueous continuous phase was prepared according to the following process:

- mixture of water and preservative at a temperature of 85 ° C, with stirring,

- Adding the hydrophilic gelling agent, and mixing the whole with stirring at 85 ° C for 15 minutes. Preparation of a heart-bark lipstick according to the invention:

The continuous aqueous phase was first injected into the peripheral part of a two-compartment mold, then cooled to room temperature.

In a second step, the removable central part of the mold was removed, then the anhydrous phase injected hot at 90 ° C into the central cavity.

The assembly was again cooled to room temperature.

Visual observation of the sticks:

The 1 cm diameter sticks were left at room temperature for 24 hours.

The sticks, open over a length of 2.5 cm and held in the horizontal position for one minute, have a curvature in continuity with the mechanism of the sticks in the horizontal position. This result confirms their "solid" character within the meaning of the invention.

The heart-bark lipstick stick comprising the anhydrous phase poured into the central part, surrounded by the continuous aqueous phase, was obtained. This product combines a freshness effect and a very good hold of the color film on the lips.

Example 3: Comparative example

An aqueous continuous phase was prepared in the form of a stick according to the same procedure as that described in Example 1. The composition of the aqueous continuous phase is the same as that of stick 5, except that the 1 , 4% by weight of agar-agar have been replaced by 1.4% by weight of neutralized hydroxypropyl guar (SAFI / CFPA). The mixture obtained was poured into a pill container with a capacity of 15 ml and into a stick 1 cm in diameter. A stick 7 was obtained.

Measuring the hardness of the stick:

According to the same method as that described in Example 1, the hardness (average in g) of the stick 7 is 4 g. This continuous aqueous phase is therefore not considered to be “solid” within the meaning of the invention insofar as its compressive strength is less than 60 g at 20 ° C., after penetration of a cylindrical mobile with a diameter of 5 mm in said continuous aqueous phase at a thickness of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.s ¹ .

Visual observation of the stick:

According to the same method as that described in Example 1, the stick of 1 cm in diameter was left at room temperature for 24 hours, opened over a length of 2.5 cm, then held horizontally for a period of one minute . The curvature of the stick 7 in the horizontal position has been observed and is presented in Figure 2: the stick deforms (it bends) and does not keep its horizontal position.

Example 4: Comparative example

An aqueous continuous phase was prepared in the form of a stick according to the same procedure as that described in Example 1. The composition of the aqueous continuous phase is the same as that of stick 6, except that the 1 , 4% by weight of agar-agar have been replaced by 1.4% by weight of neutralized hydroxypropyl guar (SAFI / CFPA). The mixture obtained was poured into a pill container with a capacity of 15 ml and into a stick 1 cm in diameter. A stick 8 was obtained.

Measuring the hardness of the stick:

According to the same method as that described in Example 1, the hardness (average in g) of the stick 8 is 1 g.

This continuous aqueous phase is therefore not considered to be “solid” within the meaning of the invention insofar as its compressive strength is less than 60 g at 20 ° C., after penetration of a cylindrical mobile with a diameter of 5 mm in said continuous aqueous phase at a thickness of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.s ¹ .

Visual observation of the stick: According to the same method as that described in Example 1, the stick of 1 cm in diameter was left at room temperature for 24 hours, opened over a length of 2.5 cm, then held horizontally for a period of one minute . The curvature of the stick 8 in a horizontal position has been observed and is presented in Figure 2: the stick sinks and does not hold.

Claims

1. Solid cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a solid aqueous continuous phase comprising water and at least three hydrophilic gelling agents chosen from natural or synthetic polysaccharides.

2. A solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the natural or synthetic polysaccharides are chosen from agar-agar, gelan gum, xanthan gum, carrageenans, cellulose and its derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, corn starch, carboxymethyl cellulose ethers, alkaligenic polysaccharides.

3. A solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, in which the polysaccharides are natural polysaccharides, preferably chosen from agar-agar, gelan gum, xanthan gum.

4. Solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, in which the content of hydrophilic gelling agents is at least 0.3% by weight relative to the weight of the aqueous continuous phase.

5. Solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, in which the aqueous continuous phase has a hardness defined by a compressive strength greater than or equal to 60 g at 20 ° C, after penetration of a cylindrical mobile diameter 5 mm in said phase at a thickness of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.s ¹ .

6. Method for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a- preparation of a liquid aqueous continuous phase composition by mixing, with stirring, preferably at a temperature ranging from 50 to 110 ° C., hydrophilic gelling agents in water, in a mixer, b- injection of the liquid aqueous phase composition in a mold or a primary packaging unit, and

c- cooling to room temperature of the composition obtained at the end of step b-, to obtain a solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5.

7. Use of a solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5 for making up and / or caring for the skin of the body and / or the face, and in particular the lips.

8. Solid cosmetic product, characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5.

9. Stick characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5.

10. Solid gel poured into a housing or a bucket characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5.

11. Lip balm characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5.

12. Lipstick characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5.

13. A biphasic lipstick of the heart-shell type comprising a solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5 as an aqueous phase, and an anhydrous phase.

14. Biphasic lipstick according to claim 13 characterized in that the anhydrous phase constitutes the heart of said lipstick.

15. Process for making up and / or caring for the skin of the body and / or the face, and in particular of the lips, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

a'- removal of an amount of solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5 or of a solid cosmetic product according to one of claims 8 to 14, in an amount necessary to carry out at least one application, and

b'- application of the solid cosmetic composition taken during step a'- on the skin of the body and / or of the face, and in particular of the lips.