FR2794999A1 - Solid aqueous gel used for skin, keratinous material and mucous membranes, comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent(s) and a powder phase comprising deformable particles - Google Patents

Abstract

Solid aqueous gel contains a hydrophilic gelling agent(s) and deformable particles to give good stability and a fresh feel on application. Solid aqueous gel comprises: (1) at most 20 wt.% of a hydrophilic gelling agent(s); and (2) a powder phase comprising deformable particles. Independent claims are included for a makeup product for skin or keratinous fibers comprising a gel as above and a makeup process for skin and keratinous fibers involving applying the above gel.

Description

The present invention relates to a solid aqueous gel, an aqueous solid continuous phase composition comprising such a gel and their use in the cosmetic field, in particular for the makeup of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratinous fibers.

In the cosmetics industry, products are known in solid form. Examples of products of this type are, for example, in the field of make-up, sticks or "sticks" of red <B> to </ B> lip, foundation or shade <B> to </ B > eyelids <B>; </ B> in the field of skincare or lip care, lip repair pencils, depigmenting, cleansing or moisturizing sticks or sticks <B>; </ B> in the field hygiene, deodorant sticks, foaming sticks or loaves for shaving or for washing the skin.

<B> It </ B> is indeed particularly interesting to have products in the form of sticks to the extent that such products are very practical <B> to </ B> use, they are easily transportable, the product is not risky not to sink.

Moreover, the make-up products are quite generally formulated on the basis of a part of a fatty phase for reasons of comfort and softness and secondly of a pulverulent phase which provides the desired color. This pulverulent phase may comprise pigments and / or fillers and / or nacres. The fatty phase generally comprises waxes and / or oils and / or pasty compounds.

However, the wax-based sticks have certain disadvantages: they have a greasy character that is not appreciated by the users and they lack the freshness <B> to </ b> </ B> the application. In addition, it is difficult <B> to introduce hydrophilic actives.

We are therefore looking more and more <B> at </ B> making make-up sticks comprising an aqueous phase in the greatest possible concentration. <B> It is of course known to make non-greasy sticks such as as deodorant sticks but these rarely contain pigments or nacres.

But <B> it </ B> turns out that the presence of pigments or nacres within aqueous sticks causes problems of disintegration of the product, that is to say of taking the product <B>: </ B> in fact, these pigments and / or these nacres, essential for makeup products to bring color, are solid particles unsolubilized in the final composition. As a result, they are likely to interfere with the stability of the latter.

Moreover, it is essential, for a particular makeup product, that the sampling of the product is done in an ideal manner, that is to say, in a simple way, <B> to </ B> the aid finger or sponge or even directly on the skin of the body for example, to take not only the amount of adequate product (not too much not to lose product unnecessarily but enough to ensure a makeup effect) but also to preserve the integrity of the product at the time of its removal <B>: </ B> it is not necessary to break the product by a shearing phenomenon but to take the whole product with the pigments and / or pearlescent agents, and / or possibly the loads, which ensure the function of makeup. It is only on this condition that the application of the product can be done homogeneously and that the makeup obtained will be uniform.

<B> It </ b> is known to stable solid aqueous gels including pigments <B>: </ B> but these products are generally impossible <B> to </ B> disintegrate; they are often brittle, so it is impossible to take the product on the finger or sponge. Such products do not allow the deposition of a homogeneous film on the skin.

Deleterious products also exist but they are then too soft and end up shearing during repeated applications or present phenomena of syneresis over time, that is to say that the liquid part ends up exuding and the product has two phases <B>: </ B> an indelible solid phase and a liquid phase. The product can no longer perform its function, <B> to </ B> know, makeup, since it is impossible to take the pigments on the finger or on a sponge.

In addition, aqueous rigid gels are described in WO-A-97/17055. However, these gels require the use of a relatively high concentration of gelling agent or use a particular preparation technique, extrusion. In addition, these sticks, because of the high concentration of gelling agent, lack freshness and softness when applied to the skin.

In order to remedy these disintegration problems, it has been proposed to incorporate in these gels, charges of a particular chemical nature, such as silica or nylon. However, the products thus obtained have clearly insufficient cosmetic qualities <B>: </ B> they are rough to the touch, provide sensations of discomfort such as drying or tugging once the product is deposited on the skin. They also have difficult application qualities in the presence of pigments.

Also, there remains the need for a solid aqueous gel, not having the disadvantages of the prior art.

The Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that by combining <B> with </ B> a hydrophilic gelling agent a charge of a particular nature, <B> to </ B> know a charge <B> to </ B> deformable particles, it was possible to produce solid aqueous gels optionally comprising pigments and / or nacres, these gels being easily disintegrated on the finger or the sponge or directly on the skin of the face or body and having remarkable cosmetic qualities.

The present invention therefore relates to a solid aqueous gel comprising i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii) a pulverulent phase comprising at least one <B> to </ B> deformable particles, the hydrophilic gelling agent being present in the gel <B at a content less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel. The gels of the invention have excellent application and disintegration qualities. In particular, thanks to <B> to </ B> the association according to the invention, one obtains, <B> at </ B> equivalent hardness, a level of disintegration greater <B> than </ B> that of the sticks known. Taking the product is easy, it can be done directly on the body or with the finger or the sponge, by taking a sufficient amount of product, easy <B> to </ B> then apply to the skin evenly, without the need for prior wetting. The gel spreads easily on the skin. The makeup obtained is uniform and homogeneous.

These gels have excellent cosmetic qualities <B>: </ B> the comfort and softness of the film after drying on the skin are improved. This film is not drying and does not bring a feeling of tightness when dry.

These gels are stable over time and <B> at </ B> temperature. Thus, after being kept two months <B> at </ B> room temperature or <B> at </ B> 450C, they exhibit no phenomenon of syneresis (exudation) or phase shift <B>: </ B > their appearance and their hardness have not changed.

The gels according to the invention do not exude, even at low levels of gelling agent, and they do not necessarily require the intervention of a particular preparation technique. They provide the application with a feeling of great freshness while maintaining good cosmetic properties, especially softness.

The present invention also relates to a solid composition <B> to an aqueous continuous phase comprising a gel as defined above.

The present invention also relates to a product for making up the skin or keratinous fibers comprising a gel and / or a composition as defined above.

The subject of the present invention is also a process for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratinous fibers, consisting in applying to the latter an aqueous gel and / or a solid composition and or a makeup product as defined above.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "gel" or "solid composition" means a gel or composition having a hardness defined by a maximum force before rupture ranging from <B> 5 to 50 </ B> grams, <B> to </ B> > ambient temperature (20-25 ° C), after penetration by a stainless steel mobile of 2 mm diameter in the matrix of the gel or composition <B> to </ B> a thickness of <B> 1 </ B> mm <B> at </ B> a speed of <B> 1 </ B> mm / s and removal of said mobile from the matrix of the gel or composition <B> at </ B> a speed of 2 mm / s <B The maximum force before rupture being measured with a texture analyzer of the "TAXT2" type marketed by the company RHEO.

More preferably, the maximum force before rupture is from <B> 7 to </ B> 40 <B> g. </ B>

The gel according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent. Gelling agent is understood to mean a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.

This hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, polyester-type synthesis or semisynthetic gels, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.

Among the polysaccharides, mention may be made of: <B> - </ B> extracts of alga such as agar-agar, carrageenans (iota, kappa, lambda), alginates, in particular Na or Ca; <B> - </ B> the exudates of microorganisms such as xanthan gum and its derivatives such as the product sold under the trade name "Rhéosan" by Rhodia Chimie, Gellane, <B> - </ B > fruit extracts such as pectins <B> - </ B> gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, in particular gelatin, beef or fish, caseinates -, <B> - < Polysaccharides having a side chain and <B> 6 </ B> neutral sugars as described in FR-A-2759377, <B> - </ B> and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, and more preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is gellan.

As the products particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the gellan gum sold under the trade name Kelcogel F by the company NUTRASWEET. KELCO or the iota carrageenan sold under the trade names <B> </ B> Seaspen PF <B> 357 </ B> or <B> <B> </ B> Viscarin <B> SD 389 </ B>), by the FMC company.

The hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the gel according to the invention at a concentration of up to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight. 10%, by weight, based on the total weight of the gel. This concentration makes it possible to obtain the hardness and the consistency suitable for an ideal disintegration.

The gel according to the invention also comprises a pulverulent phase which comprises at least one deformable particle load <B>.

By charges, it is necessary to understand colorless or white particles, mineral or synthetic, spherical or nonspherical, intended <B> to </ B> to give body or rigidity <B> to </ B> the composition, and / or softness, dullness and uniformity to makeup.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "debitable particles" for the purposes of the present invention means spherical or non-spherical particles of sufficiently low hardness to deform when the composition is taken from the finger or <B> to </ B> the sponge or directly by rubbing on the skin when it comes to a stick. In particular, by "deformable", it should be understood that the particles are flexible and elastic <B>: </ B> after crushing, they resume their original shape. These particles can be of any chemical nature. Preferably, they have an average particle size of from <B> 0.1 to 500 </ B> microns, and preferably <B> 1 to 100 </ B> microns. They can be full or hollow.

As examples of solid deformable particles, cross-linked organosiloxane particles or silicone rubber powder as described in JP 175816 can be cited. B> whose hardness JIS <B> A </ B> is equal to or less <B> than 80 </ B> and preferably <B> to 65. </ B> These particles may be coated with surfactant or fine organic powder. They may also contain a non-crosslinked silicone or hydrocarbon oil that may exude <B> </ B> silicone rubber powder <B>. </ B>

Mention may be made of the <B> 63% silicone rubber powder </ B> in aqueous dispersion sold under the trade names "BY29-119" <B> </ B> BY-29-122 <B> </ B > by Dow Corning.

The solid deformable particles that can be used according to the present invention preferably have a density ranging from <B> 0.8 to </ B> 4, more preferably ranging from <B> 0.8 to </ B> <B> 1, 5. </ B>

When the deformable particles are hollow or filled with a gas or air, they advantageously have a density ranging from <B> 0.015 to </ B> 0.2 and better than <B> to </ B> 0.04 and / or <B> to 0.1 </ B> and in particular from <B> 0.06 </ B> to 0.08. </ B>

For example, a copolymer containing <B>: <B> 1% to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the copolymer, of units derived from vinylidene chloride may be used. , from <B>% to 90% </ B> by weight, based on the total weight of the copolymer of acrylonitrile derived units and <B> 1% to 50% by weight, relative to total weight of the copolymer of units derived from an acrylic monomer, the sum of the percentages by weight being equal to <B> to 100. The acrylic monomer is, for example, a methyl acrylate or methacrylate and, in particular methacrylate. These particles are in particular <B> to </ B> the dry state or hydrated.

This copolymer is nontoxic and non-irritating to the skin.

Preferably, the hollow particles are in the form of microspheres and have a mean size or particle size ranging from <B> 10 </ B> prn <B> to 60 </ B> pm.

The hollow particles of the invention can be obtained, for example, according to the processes of patents and patent applications EP-56 <B> 219, EP-348 <B> 372, </ B> EP-486 <B> 080, </ B> EP-320 473, EP-1 12 <B> 807 </ B> and US-3 <B> 615 972. </ B>

The internal cavity of the particles in principle contains a gas which may be air, nitrogen or a hydrocarbon such as isobutane or isopentane.

The hollow particles that can be used in the invention are, in particular, those sold under the trademark Expancel by Casco Nobel, such as Expancel <B> 551 DE </ B> 20 with a particle size of <B> 27 </ B> pm, and with a density <B> 0.052 </ B> approximately, the Expancel <B> 551 DE 80 </ B> with a particle size of <B> 50 </ B> pm and a density of about 0.045, the Expancel <B> 051 DE </ B> of particle size <B> 30 </ B> pm and density <B> 0.056 </ B> approximately, the Expancel 461 <B> DE </ B> of <B> 30 granulometry < With a density <B> 0.058 </ B> approximately, Expancel <B> 551 DE </ B> 12 with a particle size of <B> 17 </ B> pm and a density <B> 0, 07, or the Expancels of the "W" series as Expancel <B> 551 </ B> W 20 with a particle size of <B> 27 </ B> pm and a density <B> 0.033 </ B> approx.

Preferably, the charges <B> to </ B> deformable particles are present in the gels according to the invention <B> to </ B> a content ranging from <B> 0.1 to 50% </ B> in weight relative to the weight of the gel. This content may vary, particularly depending on the density of the charge <B> to </ B> deformable particles. Thus, when this charge has a density of from <B> 0.015 to </ B> 0.2, then it is preferably present <B> at </ B> a content ranging from <B> 0.1 to </ B>. <B> 10% </ B> by weight, by weight, based on the total weight of the gel. When this charge has a density ranging from <B> 0.8 to </ B> 4, then it is preferably present <B> at </ B> a content ranging from <B> 1 to 50%, </ B by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.

For example, for hollow deformable particles such as the Expancels mentioned above, this content is generally from <B> 0.1% to 10% </ B> by weight of particles and better still <B> 0.3% by weight. 5% </ B> by weight and still <B> 0.3% to </ B> 2%, based on the total weight of the gel.

The pulverulent phase may comprise, in addition to the <B> to </ B> deformable particles mentioned above, other charges, which may be inorganic or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, and also pigments and / or pearlescent agents. Other fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon, polyethylene powders, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres, non-deformable silicone resin microbeads, zinc and titanium oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, the myristate magnesium compounds SiO2 / TiO2 / SiO2, TiO2 / CeO2 / SiO2, or TiO2 / ZnO / Talc, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethacrylate polymers in the form of flakes. The fillers may be present in the composition <B> to </ B> because of <B> 0, 1 -60% </ B> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably <B> to < / B> Reason from <B> 0.1 </ B> <B> to 40%, preferably 1-20%, By pigments, it is necessary to include white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel, to <B> to </ B> color and / or opacify the composition.

The pigments can be present <B> at </ B> by reason of 0-40 <B>% </ B> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably <B> to </ B> by reason of <B> 0.1 to 30% </ B> and preferably <B> to </ B> because of 1-20 <B>%. </ B> They can be white or colored, minerals and / or organic, of usual size or nanometer. Nanoscale means pigments with an average particle size of <B> 5 to 100 </ B> nm.

Among the pigments and mineral nanopigments, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, nanotitans and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, and the lacquers commonly used to impart to the lips and the skin a make-up effect, which are calcium, barium, magnesium and calcium salts. aluminum or zirconium, acid dyes such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes.

The pigments may in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes or with fluorinated compounds. Maprecos pigments <B> SA </ B> can also be mentioned, or Myoshi's Pl pigments.

By nacres, one must understand iridescent particles that reflect light, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel.

The nacres can be present in the composition <B> to </ B> because of 0-40% by weight, preferably <B> to </ B> because of <B> 0.1 to 30% </ B> and more preferably <B> to </ B> due to 1-20% by weight.

Among the nacres that can be envisaged, mention may be made of natural mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride, and with colored titanium mica.

In general, the pulverulent phase comprises enough pigments and / or nacres to ensure the desired makeup effect. Preferably, the pulverulent phase comprises at least one pigment and / or one mother-of-pearl. Thus, preferably, the aqueous gel according to the invention is not transparent, that is to say that one can not see the characters of a log page <B> to </ B> through the gel. More preferably it is not translucent, that is to say that it does not allow the passage of light.

The pulverulent phase preferably comprises from <B> 0.1 to </ B> 40%, more preferably from <B> 0.1 to </ B> 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, from pigments and / or nacres.

The gels of the invention also contain a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other cutaneous zone of the body and the face.

The gels according to the invention may also comprise a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA water. > ROCHE POSAY and / or a thermal water, water-soluble dyes chosen from the usual dyes of the field considered such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, the yellow of quinoline, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, the xanthophyll.

Preferably, the gels according to the invention comprise up to <99.8% by weight, preferably from <B> to 99% by weight, based on the total weight of the product. gel, water.

The gels according to the invention may also comprise solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene. glycol, glycol ethers such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

<B> It </ B> is possible to modify the rigidity of the gels according to the invention by <B> y </ B> adding one or more salts which will increase this rigidity. These salts may be chosen from the salts of mono-, di- or trivalent metals, and more particularly the alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium, calcium or magnesium salts. The ions constituting these salts can be chosen, for example, from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulphates, glycerophosphates, borates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, persulfates and salts of (x-hydroxyacids). (citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or of fruit acids, or the salts of amino acids (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate) .The amount of salt can range from <B> 0.01 to </ B> 2 <B>% </ B> and preferably <B> 0.1 to 1% </ B> of the total weight of the gel.

Preferably, the salt is chosen from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, strontium chloride, neodymium chloride or manganese chloride, magnesium or calcium, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the salt is magnesium chloride.

The gels of the invention can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions and constitute the continuous phase. Such compositions may thus comprise a fatty phase which may for example comprise an oil. Among the oils that may be used, mention may be made of oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, such as paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, and wheat germ oil. , </ B> sweet almond, calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, copra, peanut, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or germs of cereals; esters of fatty acids and polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides wrinkles; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, triglycerides of fatty acids; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones and perfluorinated oils. The fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise other fatty substances, which may be chosen by the person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to <B> to </ B> confer <B> at the final composition the desired properties, for example in consistency, texture and / or transfer. These additional fatty substances may be waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made in particular of: <B> - </ B> silicone gums, <B> - </ B> waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, petrolatum, petrolatum, ozokerite, montan wax; beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; Candelilla, Ouricury, Carnauba, Japan waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber waxes or cane <B> to </ B> sugar; hydrogenated oils <B> to 250C, ozokerites, fatty esters and glycerides <B> to </ B> 250C; polyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; hydrogenated oils concrete <B> at </ B> 25'C; lanolins; concrete fatty esters <B> to </ B> 25OC; silicone waxes; fluorinated waxes, their mixtures.

The fatty phase may be present in proportions ranging, for example, up to <B> 30%, preferably <B> 0, 1 to </ B> 20% and better still <B> 0 , 5 to 10% </ B> of the total weight of the composition, these proportions varying according to the chosen application.

The oils or waxes can be introduced into the aqueous phase in the presence of one or more surfactants to ensure better dispersion. The compositions according to the invention can therefore also contain one or more surfactants H / E or cotensio-active ionic or nonionic <B>, </ B> of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to <B> to 8, </ B> usually used in the cosmetic field. When present, the amount of surfactant or cosurfactant is preferably from <B> 0.05 to 8% </ B> of the total weight of the composition.

The composition may furthermore comprise any complementary compound conventionally used in the cosmetics field, such as antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, lipophilic or hydrophilic cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids. , self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sunscreens.

Of course the skilled care to <B> to </ B> choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their amount, such that the advantageous properties of the gel and / or the composition according to the invention do not not, or not substantially, impaired by the proposed addition. The aqueous continuous phase gels and compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to conventional stick preparation methods, these methods being well known to those skilled in the art.

The gels and the compositions according to the invention may constitute make-up or skincare products, in particular the body, face and / or scalp, or keratin fibers, in particular hair, nails, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, or mucous membranes, especially lips. They can thus constitute makeup products for the body, foundations, eyelid shadows, cheeks, concealer, reds, and so on. lips, lip contour pencils, mascaras, eye contour pencils, sticks for dyeing or makeup strands of hair.

The invention is further illustrated in the following examples.

In the following examples, the amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

<U> EXAMPLE <B> 1 </ U></U> The Applicant has carried out the aqueous gel in the form of a foundation of stick complexion following <B>: </ B>

-Gomme <SEP> of <SEP> gellane <SEP> sold <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> denomination
<tb> commercial <SEP><B><SEP> Kelcogel <SEP> F <SEP><B></B><SEP> from <SEP><B> NUTRASWEET-KELCO <SEP> 0, 5% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> chloride <SEP> of <SEP><B> Mg <SEP> 0.1% </ B>
<tb><B> - </ B><SEP> conservative <SEP> qs
<tb><B> - <SEP> pigments <SEP> (oxides <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> and <SEP> dioxide <SEP> of <SEP> titanium) <SEP><B> 7.% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP><B> 7.% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> Powder <SEP> of <SEP> Rubber <SEP> of <SEP> Silicone <SEP><B> to <SEP> 63% </ B>
<tb><SEP> dispersion <SEP> aqueous <SEP> sold <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> denomination
<tb> commercial <SEP>"BY29-119"<SEP> by <SEP> Dow <SEP> Corning <SEP><B> 15% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> water <SEP> qsp <SEP><B> 100% </ B> This gel has been prepared in the following way <B>: </ B> The water and the preservative were heated to <90 ° C, then the gellan was stirred. After waiting <B> 15 </ B> min, the pigment paste previously prepared was mixed by mixing the pigments with propylene glycol. Then the silicone powder was incorporated.

The mixture was then poured into a cup and then cooled. Everything is left standing for 24 hours at room temperature.

We obtain a stick very fresh <B> to </ B> the application, usable <B> to </ B> sponge dry or wet, good grip and easy application and homogeneous on the skin. The makeup of the skin with such a stick gives a natural and transparent result, completely devoid of greasy effect and very soft after evaporation of water.

The hardness of this gel, measured as described above is <B>: 10 g </ B><U> EXAMPLE 2: </ U> The Applicant has realized the aqueous gel in the form of a stick for Fard <B> to the following eyelids:

-Gomme <SEP> of <SEP> gellane <SEP> sold <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> denomination
<tb> commercial <SEP><B><SEP> Kelcogel <SEP> F <SEP><B></B><SEP> from <SEP><B> NUTRASWEET-KELCO <SEP> 0, 5% </ B>
<tb><B> - </ B><SEP> conservative <SEP> qs
<tb><B> - <SEP> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP><B> 100 <SEP>% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> Expanded <SEP> Microspheres <SEP> of <SEP> Copolymer <SEP> Chloride
of <SEP> Vinylidene <SEP><B> / </ B><SEP> Acrylonitrile <SEP><B> / </ B><SEP> Methacrylate <SEP> of <SEP> Methyl
<tb> containing <SEP> of <SEP> the isobutane <SEP> sold <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> denomination
<tb> commercial <SEP><SEP><SEP> Expancel <SEP><B> 551 <SEP> FROM <SEP> 20 <SEP><B></B><SEP> by <SEP> Casco <SEP> Nobel <SEP><B> 0.5% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SE> nacres <SEP><B> 5% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> chloride <SEP> of <SEP> Magnesium <SEP><B> 0.1% </ B> This stick was prepared in the same way as in the example <B> 1. </ B>

We obtain a stick used directly on the skin, good disintegration and non-drying powdery touch.

The hardness of this stick, measured as described above is: <B>: </ B> 5,54 <B> g </ B><U> EXAMPLE <B> 3: </ B></U> Comparative The Applicant has made the following stick in the same way as in the example <B> 1: </ B>

<B> - <SE> gellan <SEP><B> 0.5% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> chloride <SEP> of <SEP><B> Mg <SEP> 0.1% </ B>
<tb><B> - </ B><SEP> conservative <SEP> qs
<tb><B> - <SEP> pigments <SEP> (oxides <SEP> of <SEP> iron <SEP> and <SEP> dioxide <SEP> of <SEP> titanium) <SEP><B> 7.% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP><B> T% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> silica <SEP> pyrogenous <SEP> sold <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> denomination
<tb> commercial <SEP><B><B><SEP> Aerosil <SEP> 200 <SEP><B></B><SEP> by <SEP> Degussa <SEP><B> 3.15% </ B>
<tb><B> - <SEP> water <SEP> qsp <SEP><B> 100% </ B> The hardness of this stick, measured as described above, is <B>: 9.75 g </ B> We obtain a very uncomfortable stick which lacks softness and which does not allow a homogeneous deposition.

Claims (1)

A solid aqueous gel comprising: i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii) a pulverulent phase comprising at least one <B> to </ B> deformable particles, <b> 1. </ B> the hydrophilic gelling agent being present in the gel <B> at </ B> a content less than or equal to <B> at 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel. 2. Gel according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semisynthetic gels of polyester, in particular sulphonic, polyacrylate type. or polymethacrylates and their derivatives. <B> 3. </ B> Gel according to claim 2, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is a polysaccharide selected from <B>: </ B> <B> - </ B> extracts of algae such as agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates, in particular Na or Ca, exosudates of microorganisms such as xanthan gum and its derivatives or gellan gum, B> - </ B> fruit extracts such as pectins <B> - </ B> Gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, especially gelatin, beef or fish, caseinates < B> </ b> <B> - </ B> Polysaccharides possessing a side chain and <B> 6 </ B> neutral sugars, <B> - </ B> and mixtures thereof. 4. Gel according to claim 3, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from gellan, carrageenans and mixtures thereof. <B> 5. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is present <B> at </ B> a concentration ranging from 0.2 <B> to 10%, </ B> by weight, based on the total weight of the gel. <B> 6. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the charges <B> to </ B> deformable particles have an average particle size ranging from <B> 0, 1 to 500 microns, and preferably <B> 1 to 100 microns. <B> 7. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claimsn characterized in that the charges <B> to </ B> deformable particles are present <B> to </ B> a content ranging from <B > 0.1 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the gel. <B> 8. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the charges <B> to </ B> deformable particles are solid and have a density ranging from <B> 0.8 to </ B> 4, more preferably from <B> 0.8 to 1.5. </ B> <B> 9. </ B> Gel according to claim 8, characterized in that said particles are present <B> at </ B> a content ranging from <B> 1 to 50%, </ B> by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel. <B> 10. </ B> Gel according to claim 8, wherein said solid particles are crosslinked organosiloxane particles. <B> 11. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the charges <B> to </ B> deformable particles are hollow and have a density ranging from <B> 0.015 to </ B> 0.2, more preferably from <B> 0.06 to 0.08. 12. Gel according to claim 11, characterized in that said particles are present B> to </ B> a content ranging from <B> 0.1 to 10% </ B> by weight, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel. <B> 13. </ B> Gel according to claim 11, characterized in that the hollow particles comprise a copolymer containing from <B> 1% to 60%, </ B> by weight , based on the total weight of the copolymer, units derived from vinylidene chloride, from <B>% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the copolymer of acrylonitrile derived units and <B > 1% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the copolymer of units derived from an acrylic monomer, the sum of the percentages by weight being equal to <B> to 100. 14. Gel according to claim 13, characterized in that the particles contain air or a gas selected from nitrogen, isobutane or isopentane. <B> 15. </ B> Gel according to any one of claims <B> 11 to </ B> 14, characterized in that the hollow deformable particles are microspheres of average size ranging from <B> 10 </ B> pm <B> to 60 </ B> pm. <B> 16. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pulverulent phase further comprises a filler selected from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon powders, polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, powders polyester, synthetic hollow microspheres, non-deformable silicone resin microbeads, zinc and titanium oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, microcapsules of glass or ceramic, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from <B> 8 to </ B> 22 carbon atoms, preferably from e 12 <B> to 18 </ B> carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, SiO2 / TiO2 / SiO2, TiO2 / CeO2 / SiO2 compounds or TiO 2 / ZnO / Talc, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethacrylate polymers in the form of flakes. <B> 17. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pulverulent phase further comprises a pigment selected from titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium, zinc oxides, iron or chromium, nanotitans, ferric blue, carbon black, calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, acid dyes such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes, coated pigments by silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes and / or by polymers, in particular polyethylenes, or by fluorinated compounds, and / or their mixtures. <B> 18. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pulverulent phase further comprises a nacre chosen from natural mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored titanium mica. <B> 19. </ B> Gel according to any one of claims <B> 17 </ B> or <B> 18, </ B> characterized in that the powdery phase of <B> 0.1 to 40%, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the gel, pigments and / or nacres. 20. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a salt. 21. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the salt is chosen from calcium nitrate, magnesium or strontium, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, strontium chloride, neodymium or manganese, magnesium or calcium sulfate, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof. 22. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the salt is magnesium chloride. <B> 23. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium. 24. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a water-soluble dye. <B> 25. </ B> Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a solvent chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and dipropylene. glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof. <B> 26. </ B> Solid composition <B> to </ B> continuous aqueous phase, characterized in that it comprises a gel as defined <B> to </ B> any one of claims < B> 1 to 25. </ B> <B> 27. </ B> Makeup product for the skin or keratinous fibers, characterized in that it comprises a gel as defined <B> to </ B> any one of claims <B> 1 to 25 </ B> and / or a composition as defined <B> to </ B> claim <B> 26. </ B> <B> 28. </ B> Product according to claim 27, characterized in that it constitutes a makeup product of the body, a foundation, a shadow with eyelids, a blush <B> cheeks, an anti-ceme, a red lip, a lip contour pencil, a mascara, an eye contour pencil, a stick for dyeing or make-up locks of hair. <B> 29. </ B> A process for making up the skin and / or the keratinous fibers, consisting of <B> to </ B> applying to the skin and / or the keratinous fibers, a gel as defined <B> any of claims 1 to 25 and / or a composition as defined at claim 26 and / or a product as defined <B> to </ B> any one of claims <B> 27 </ B> or <B> 28. </ B>