FR2811560A1 - SOLID COMPOSITION WITH AQUEOUS CONTINUOUS PHASE COMPRISING A PARTICULAR COMBINATION OF HYDROPHILIC GELLANTS, USES - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a solid composition with continuous aqueous phase comprising: a) 0.8 to 1.2 % of kappa -carrageenan; b) at least a gelling agent selected among guar, alginate, the weight ratio b)/a) ranging between about 1 and about 2. Said composition can be used in stick or waterpact form and can constitute make-up products for the skin and/or the mucous membranes and/or keratinous fibres.

Description

The present invention relates to a solid composition with continuous phase

  aqueous, as well as its use in the cosmetic field, in particular for

  make-up of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers.

  Products in solid form are known in the cosmetic industry. As products of this type, mention may be made, for example, in the field of make-up, of sticks or “sticks” of lipstick, foundation or eye shadow; in the field of skin or lip care, lip repair pencils, depigmenting, make-up removing or moisturizing sticks or "sticks"; in the field of hygiene, deodorant sticks, sticks or

  foaming bars for shaving or washing the skin.

  It is in fact particularly advantageous to have products in the form of sticks insofar as such products are very practical to use, they are

  easily transportable, the product is not likely to leak.

  Furthermore, makeup products are fairly generally formulated on the one hand on the basis of an oily phase for reasons of comfort and softness and on the other hand on a pulverulent phase which provides the desired color. This pulverulent phase can comprise pigments and / or fillers and / or nacres. The fatty phase generally comprises oils and / or waxes and / or

  pasty compounds that structure the sticks.

  However, the sticks formulated based on waxes have certain drawbacks: they have a fatty character which is not appreciated by the users and they lack freshness on application. In addition, it is difficult to introduce hydrophilic active agents into it. It is therefore increasingly sought to make makeup sticks comprising an aqueous phase in the greatest possible concentration. However, sticks comprising a large aqueous phase are sometimes subject to problems of stability and lack of cohesion. In particular, these gels, which are produced from the combination of a hydrophilic gelling agent and water, have the disadvantage of being

  fragile and can break easily during use.

  One way to improve the strength of gels is to increase the concentration of

  hydrophilic gelling agent but the gels then become difficult to disintegrate, that is to say

  say that the removal of material when taking the product is insufficient.

  In addition, the aqueous sticks free of fatty phase cause the application of the sensations of drying and tightness of the skin, effects considered undesirable by the users, and make it difficult to deposit.

homogeneous colors.

  Also, there remains the need for a solid composition which can be used by direct application to the skin or using a sponge, disintegrating well, comfortable, providing the application with a freshness effect without the effect of tightness or

  drying, and allowing a homogeneous colored deposit.

  The Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that by combining two particular hydrophilic gelling agents in a particular weight ratio, it was possible to produce solid compositions which can disintegrate easily and

  bringing freshness without tightening or drying effect.

  The present invention therefore relates to a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase, characterized in that it comprises: - a) 0.8 to 1.2% of K-carraghenane, - b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from guar, alginate,

  the weight ratio of b) / a) ranging from approximately 1 to approximately 2.

  The compositions according to the invention are particularly comfortable: they are easily applied, providing a feeling of freshness and softness. They

  have excellent cosmetic properties.

  The compositions of the invention have excellent application and disintegration qualities. In particular, thanks to the combination according to the invention, a level of disintegration higher than that of known sticks is obtained, at equivalent hardness. Taking the product is easy, it can be done directly on the body or with the finger or even with a sponge, taking a sufficient amount of product, easy to apply then on the skin evenly, without the need for wetting prior. The makeup obtained is uniform and homogeneous. These compositions also exhibit excellent cohesion. They are stable over time and at temperature. Thus, after having been stored for two months at room temperature or at 45 ° C., they do not exhibit any phenomenon of syneresis (exudation) or even phase shift: their appearance and their hardness

have not changed.

  The compositions according to the invention do not exude, even at low levels of gelling agent, and they do not necessarily require the intervention of a technique

of special preparation.

  The present invention also relates to a product for making up the skin.

  or keratin fibers comprising a composition as defined above

above.

  The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the latter, a composition and / or a solid make-up product as defined

above.

  By solid composition is meant within the meaning of the present invention a composition whose phase shift angle, measured according to the test described below, is

less than or equal to 10.

  Reheology test: a 2 mm high sample of the solid composition to be measured is cut. We place this sample on a mobile planplan

  striated 20 mm (air gap set at 2 mm) with a "Haake RS75" rheometer.

  The sample is warmed up for 10 minutes at 20 C, then a

  stress scan at 1 Hz to determine the phase shift angle.

  The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.8 and 1.2% by weight, of K-

  carraghenane, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises 1% by weight of K-carraghenane, relative to the total weight of the composition. As iK-carraghenane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the product sold under the trade name "Satiagel ME5" by

SKW biosystems company.

  The composition according to the invention also comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from guar and alginate, in particular sodium alginate. Among such compounds which are particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the guar sold under the trade name "Emulcoll 200SP" by the company Lucas Meyer and the sodium alginate sold under the trade name

  "Manugel DMB" by Nutrasweet Kelco.

  The hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the composition according to the invention at a content such that the weight ratio of K-carraghenane to the hydrophilic gelling agent b) / a) ranges from approximately 1 to approximately 2. This ratio makes it possible to obtain the hardness and the

  consistency suitable for an ideal crumbling.

  The compositions of the invention also contain a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and semimucous membranes, and any other skin area of the

body and face.

  The compositions according to the invention can also comprise a floral water such as blueberry water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, water

  LUCAS or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

  The compositions according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble dyes chosen from the usual dyes of the field under consideration such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, salt

  monosodium rhodamine, disodium fuchsin salt, xanthophyll.

  Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise up to 99% by weight, preferably from 60 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the

composition, of water.

  The compositions according to the invention can also comprise solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as (C1-C4) alkyl ether of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol, and

their mixtures.

  The compositions according to the invention can also comprise a dispersion

  aqueous polymer, commonly known as latex or pseudo-latex.

  It is possible to modify the rigidity of the compositions according to the invention by adding one or more salts which will increase this rigidity. These salts can be chosen from the mono-, di- or trivalent metal salts, and more particularly the alkali and alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium, calcium or magnesium salts. The ions constituting these salts can be chosen, for example, from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, glycerophosphates, borates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, persulfates as well as o-hydroxy acid salts ( citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or fruit acids, or the amino acid salts (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate). The amount of salt

  can range from 0.01 to 2% and preferably from 0.1 to 1% of the total weight of the gel.

  The composition according to the invention can also comprise a pulverulent phase which can comprise a pigment and / or a nacre and / or a filler

and / or their mixtures.

  The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in the medium, intended to color and / or opacify the

composition.

  The pigments can be present in an amount of 0-40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20%. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, of usual size or nanometric. By nanometric size is meant

  pigments with an average particle size of 5 to 100 nm.

  Among the inorganic pigments and nanopigments, there may be mentioned titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, nanotitanes, ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, and the lacquers commonly used to give the lips and the skin a makeup effect, which are calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, dyes acids such as dyes

  halo-acids, azo or anthraquinone.

  The pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with hydrocarbon polymers, in particular polyethylenes or also with fluorinated compounds. We can thus cite the

  SA pigments from Maprecos or PI pigments from Myoshi.

  By pearlescent, we must understand iridescent particles that reflect light.

  The nacres can be present in the gel in an amount of 0-40% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 120% by weight. Among the possible pearls, mention may be made of natural mother-of-pearl, mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

as well as colored titanium mica.

  By fillers, it is necessary to understand colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles, lamellar or non-lamellar, intended to give body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, mattness and uniformity.

makeup.

  The fillers, which can be present in the gel in an amount of 0-60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 40%, more preferably 1-20%, can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or

non lamellar.

  Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon, of poly-p-

  alanine and polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethylmethacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres, micro sponges, silicone resin microbeads, zinc and titanium oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbon , Hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as stearate zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, SiO2 / TiO2 / SiO2, TiO2 / CeO2 / SiO2, or TiO2 / ZnO / Talc,

  polyethylene terephthalate / polymethacrylate polymers in the form of flakes.

  Generally, the pulverulent phase preferably comprises sufficient pigments and / or nacres and / or fillers to ensure the effect

desired makeup.

  The compositions according to the invention can also comprise a phase

  fatty which can for example include an oil.

  Among the oils which can be used, mention may be made of oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, such as paraffin oil, petrolatum, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond, calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, coconut, peanut, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones and oils

perfluorinated.

  The fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention can also comprise other fatty substances, which can be chosen by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to give the final composition the

  desired properties, for example in consistency, texture and / or transfer.

  These additional fatty substances can be waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, as well as their mixtures. Mention may in particular be made of: - silicone gums, - animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, petrolatum, ozokerite, montan wax; beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; Candellila, Ouricury, Carnauba and Japanese waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes; hydrogenated oils concrete at 25 C, ozokerites, fatty esters and glycerides concrete at 25 C; polyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by synthesis of FischerTropsch; hydrogenated oils concrete at 25 C; lanolines; concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C;

  silicone waxes; fluorinated waxes; their mixtures.

  The fatty phase can be present in proportions ranging, for example, up to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5 to 10% of the total weight

  of the composition, these proportions varying according to the chosen application.

  Oils or waxes can be introduced into the aqueous phase in

  presence of one or more surfactants to ensure better dispersion.

  The compositions according to the invention can therefore also contain one or more O / W surfactants or ionic or nonionic cosurfactants, of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 8, usually used in the cosmetic field. When present, the amount of surfactant or

  cosurfactant preferably ranges from 0.05 to 8% of the total weight of the composition.

  The composition can also comprise any complementary compound usually used in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients that are lipophilic or hydrophilic, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids. , self-tanning compounds such as

DHA, sun filters.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or

  substantially not, altered by the proposed addition.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an aqueous gel, an O / W emulsion. They are preferably prepared by solubilization at 80 ° C. of the combination of K-carraghenane and of the hydrophilic gelling agent and then

  incorporation of the other ingredients before cooling at rest.

  The compositions according to the invention may constitute make-up or care products for the skin, in particular the body, the face and / or the scalp, or keratin fibers, in particular the hair, nails, eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or the mucous membranes, in particular the lips. They can thus constitute body makeup products, foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, concealers, lipsticks, lip contour pencils, mascaras, contour pencils eyes,

  sticks for dyeing or making up locks of hair.

  The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.

  In the following examples, the quantities are given as a percentage by weight

  relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLE 1:

  The Applicant has produced the solid composition according to the following invention: - K-carraghenane 1% - sodium alginate 1% - titanium oxide 4% - preservatives 0.2% - Water qs 100% Preparation: a hot solution is produced ( 80 C) K-carraghenane and sodium alginate. The pigment (titanium oxide) is then incorporated and the

  preservatives. Then let cool.

8 2811560

  This composition has a phase shift angle of less than 10, measured

  as stated in this application.

  This composition disintegrates very easily with the finger or the sponge and allows a

  homogeneous deposit white and without transfer.

Claims (11)

  1. Solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase, characterized in that it comprises: - a) 0.8 to 1.2% of K-carraghenane, - b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from guar, alginate,   the weight ratio of b) / a) ranging from approximately 1 to approximately 2.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises 1%   by weight of K-carraghenane, relative to the total weight of the composition.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises   a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it comprises up to 99% by weight, preferably from 60 to   99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of water.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it further comprises a salt.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it comprises an aqueous dispersion of polymers.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it comprises a pulverulent phase.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it further comprises a fatty phase comprising at least one oil.   9. Makeup product for the skin or keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises a composition as defined in any one of claims I to 8.   10. Product according to claim 9, characterized in that it constitutes a product for making up the body, a foundation, an eye shadow, a blush, a concealer, a lipstick, a pencil. lip contour, a mascara, an eye contour pencil, or a dye or makeup stick strands of hair.   11. Process for making up the skin and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the skin and / or the keratin fibers, a composition such as   defined in any one of claims 1 to 8 and / or a product as defined   to any of claims 9 or 10.