EP1104283A1 - Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and particular fillers - Google Patents

Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and particular fillers

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Publication number
EP1104283A1
EP1104283A1 EP00942174A EP00942174A EP1104283A1 EP 1104283 A1 EP1104283 A1 EP 1104283A1 EP 00942174 A EP00942174 A EP 00942174A EP 00942174 A EP00942174 A EP 00942174A EP 1104283 A1 EP1104283 A1 EP 1104283A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gel
gel according
weight
particles
chosen
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP00942174A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Isabelle Bara
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP1104283A1 publication Critical patent/EP1104283A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279Porous; Hollow
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a solid aqueous gel, a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising such a gel and their use in the cosmetic field, in particular for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers.
  • Products in solid form are known in the cosmetic industry. As products of this type, mention may be made, for example, in the field of make-up, of sticks or “sticks” of lipstick, foundation or eye shadow; in the field of skin or lip care, lip repair pencils, depigmenting, make-up removing or moisturizing sticks or "sticks”; in the field of hygiene, deodorant sticks, sticks or foam bars for shaving or for washing the skin.
  • makeup products are fairly generally formulated on the one hand on the basis of an oily phase for reasons of comfort and softness and on the other hand on a pulverulent phase which provides the desired color.
  • This pulverulent phase can comprise pigments and / or fillers and / or nacres.
  • the fatty phase generally comprises waxes and / or oils and / or pasty compounds.
  • the sticks formulated based on waxes have certain disadvantages: they have a fatty character which is not appreciated by the users and they lack freshness on application. In addition, it is difficult to introduce hydrophilic active agents into it.
  • a makeup product in particular, that the removal of the product be carried out in an ideal manner, that is to say, allows, in a simple manner, using the finger or a sponge. or even directly on the skin of the body for example, to take not only the quantity of adequate product (not too much not to lose product unnecessarily but enough to ensure a makeup effect) but also to preserve the integrity of the product at the time of its removal: the product must not be broken by a shearing phenomenon, but the entire product must be removed with the pigments and / or pearlescent agents, and / or possibly the fillers, which ensure the function of the makeup. It is only under this condition that the application of the product can be done in a homogeneous manner and that the makeup obtained will be uniform.
  • Stable solid aqueous gels comprising pigments are known: but these products are generally impossible to disintegrate; they are often brittle, so it is impossible to take the product on the finger or on a sponge. Such products do not allow the deposition of a homogeneous film on the skin. Breakable products also exist but they are then too soft and end up shearing during repeated applications or even exhibit phenomena of syneresis over time, that is to say that the liquid part ends up exuding and the product has two phases: an indelible solid phase and a liquid phase. The product can no longer ensure its function, namely, make up, since it is impossible to take the pigments on the finger or on a sponge.
  • the Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that by associating with a hydrophilic gelling agent a filler of a particular nature, namely a filler with deformable particles, it was possible to produce solid aqueous gels optionally comprising pigments and / or nacres, these gels can be easily disintegrated with a finger or a sponge or directly on the skin of the face or body and having remarkable cosmetic qualities.
  • the present invention therefore relates to a solid aqueous gel comprising i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii) a pulverulent phase comprising at least one filler with deformable particles, the hydrophilic gelling agent being present in the gel at a content less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
  • the gels of the invention have excellent application and disintegration qualities.
  • a level of disintegration higher than that of known sticks is obtained, at equivalent hardness.
  • Taking the product is easy, it can be done directly on the body or with the finger or even with a sponge, taking a sufficient amount of product, easy to apply then on the skin evenly, without the need for wetting prior.
  • the gel spreads easily on the skin.
  • the makeup obtained is uniform and homogeneous.
  • the gels according to the invention do not exude, even at low levels of gelling agent, and they do not necessarily require the intervention of a particular preparation technique. They give the application a feeling of great freshness while retaining good cosmetic properties, in particular of softness.
  • the present invention also relates to a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising a gel as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to a product for making up the skin or keratin fibers comprising a gel and / or a composition as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the latter, an aqueous gel and / or a solid composition and / or a make-up product such as defined above.
  • the term “gel or solid composition” means a gel or composition having a hardness defined by a maximum force before rupture ranging from 5 to 50 grams, at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), after penetration by a 2 mm diameter stainless steel mobile in the gel matrix or composition at a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 1 mm / s and removal of said mobile from the gel matrix or composition at a speed of 2 mm / s; the maximum force before rupture being measured with a texture analyzer of the "TAXT2" type sold by the company RHEO.
  • the maximum force before rupture ranges from 7 to 40 g.
  • the gel according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • gelling agent is meant a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.
  • This hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of polyester type, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
  • - seaweed extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans (iota, kappa, lambda), alginates, in particular Na or Ca;
  • - gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, in particular gelatin, beef or fish, casemates;
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, and more preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is gellan.
  • gellan gum sold under the trade name “Kelcogel F” by the company NUTRASWEET-KELCO or else iota carraghenane sold under the trade names “Seaspen PF 357” or “Viscarin SD 389 "by FMC.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the gel according to the invention at a concentration of up to 20% by weight, and of . preferably 0.2 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel. This concentration makes it possible to obtain the hardness and consistency suitable for an ideal crumbling.
  • the gel according to the invention also comprises a pulverulent phase which comprises at least one filler with deformable particles.
  • fillers it is necessary to understand colorless or white particles, mineral or synthetic, spherical or non-spherical, intended to give body or rigidity in composition, and / or softness, matness and uniformity in make-up.
  • filler with deformable particles is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, spherical particles or not of sufficiently low hardness to deform when the composition is removed using a finger or a sponge or directly by friction on the skin when it is a stick.
  • deformable it should be understood that the particles are flexible and elastic: after crushing, they return to their initial shape.
  • These particles can be of any chemical nature. Preferably, they have an average particle size ranging from 0.1 to 500 microns, and preferably from 1 to 100 microns. They can be full or hollow.
  • solid deformable particles there may be mentioned particles of crosslinked organosiloxane or “silicone rubber powder” as described in document JP 10 175816, the JIS A hardness of which is equal to or less than 80 and preferably less than 65 These particles can be coated with surfactant or a fine organic powder. They may also contain a non-crosslinked silicone or hydrocarbon oil which may exude "silicone rubber powder".
  • the solid deformable particles which can be used according to the present invention preferably have a density ranging from 0.8 to 4, more preferably ranging from 0.8 to 1.5.
  • the deformable particles When the deformable particles are hollow or filled with gas or air, they advantageously have a density ranging from 0.015 to 0.2 and better still greater than 0.04 and / or less than 0.1 and in particular ranging from 0.06 to 0.08.
  • the acrylic monomer is for example a methyl acrylate or methacrylate and, in particular methacrylate. These particles are present in particular in the dry or hydrated state.
  • This copolymer is non-toxic and non-irritating to the skin.
  • the hollow particles are in the form of microspheres and have an average size or particle size ranging from 10 ⁇ m to 60 ⁇ m.
  • the hollow particles of the invention can be obtained, for example, according to the methods of patents and patent applications EP-56 219, EP-348 372, EP-486 080, EP-320473, EP-112 807 and US-3 615,972.
  • the internal cavity of the particles in principle contains a gas which can be air, nitrogen or a hydrocarbon such as isobutane or isopentane.
  • the hollow particles which can be used in the invention are in particular those sold under the brand name Expancel by the company Casco Nobel such as the Expancel 551 DE 20 with a particle size of 27 ⁇ m and a density of about 0.052, the Expancel 551 DE 80 with a particle size of 50 ⁇ m and density approximately 0.045, Expancel 051 DE with a particle size of 30 ⁇ m and density approximately 0.056, Expancel 461 DE with a particle size of 30 ⁇ m and density approximately 0.058, Expancel 551 DE 12 with a particle size of 17 ⁇ m and density approximately 0.07, or again the Expancel of the "W" series such as the Expancel 551 W 20 with a particle size of 27 ⁇ m and a density of about 0.033.
  • the fillers with deformable particles are present in the gels according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the gel.
  • This content can vary, in particular depending on the density of the load with deformable particles.
  • this filler has a density ranging from 0.015 to 0.2, then it is preferably present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
  • this filler has a density ranging from 0.8 to 4 then it is preferably present at a content ranging from 1 to 50%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
  • this content generally ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight of particles and better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight and again from 0.3 % to 2%, based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the pulverulent phase can comprise, in addition to the fillers with deformable particles mentioned above, other fillers, which can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, as well as pigments and / or nacres.
  • talc talc
  • mica silica
  • silica kaolin
  • powders of nylon polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres, non-deformable silicone resin microbeads, zinc and titanium oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbon, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as stearate zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, compounds Si0 2 / TiO 2 / SiO 2 , TiO 2
  • the fillers may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1-60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 40%, more preferably 1-20%,
  • pigments should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
  • the pigments can be present in an amount of 0-40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20%. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, of usual size or nanometric. By nanometric size is meant pigments with an average particle size of 5 to 100 nm.
  • inorganic pigments and nanopigments there may be mentioned titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, nanotitanes, ferric blue.
  • organic pigments there may be mentioned carbon black, and the lacquers commonly used to give the lips and the skin a makeup effect, which are calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, dyes acids such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes.
  • the pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes or also with fluorinated compounds.
  • silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes or also with fluorinated compounds.
  • SA pigments from Maprecos or PI pigments from Myoshi. By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles which reflect light, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel.
  • the nacres can be present in the composition in an amount of 0-40% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20% by weight.
  • the pulverulent phase comprises sufficient pigments and / or pearlescent agents to ensure the desired makeup effect.
  • the pulverulent phase comprises at least one pigment and / or a nacre.
  • the aqueous gel according to the invention is not transparent, that is to say that the characters of a newspaper page cannot be seen through the gel. More preferably, it is not translucent, that is to say that it does not allow the passage of light.
  • the pulverulent phase preferably comprises from 0.1 to 40%, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, of pigments and / or nacres.
  • the gels of the invention also contain a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face.
  • a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face.
  • the gels according to the invention can also comprise a floral water such as blueberry water and or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a water thermal, dyes water-soluble chosen from the usual dyes of the field considered such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium fuchsin salt, xanthophyll.
  • a floral water such as blueberry water and or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a water thermal, dyes water-soluble chosen from the usual dyes of the field considered such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium
  • the gels according to the invention comprise up to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 20 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, of water.
  • the gels according to the invention can also comprise solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C-
  • solvents other than water for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C-
  • primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, di
  • salts which will increase this rigidity.
  • These salts can be chosen from the mono-, di- or trivalent metal salts, and more particularly the alkali and alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium, calcium or magnesium salts.
  • the ions constituting these salts can be chosen, for example, from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, glycerophosphates, borates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, persulfates as well as the ⁇ -hydroxy acid salts ( citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or fruit acids, or the amino acid salts (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate).
  • the amount of salt can range from 0.01 to 2% and preferably from 0.1 to 1% of the total weight of the gel.
  • the salt is chosen from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium, sodium, magnesium, strontium, neodymium or manganese chloride, sodium sulfate. magnesium or calcium, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the salt is magnesium chloride.
  • the gels of the invention can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions and constitute the continuous phase thereof. Such compositions can thus comprise a fatty phase which can for example comprise an oil.
  • oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin such as paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond, calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, coconut, peanut, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluor
  • the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention can also comprise other fatty substances, which can be chosen by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to confer on the final composition the desired properties, for example in consistency, texture and / or transfer.
  • additional fatty substances can be waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, as well as their mixtures.
  • - silicone gums - animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, ozokerite, montan wax; beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; candellila, Ouricury, Camauba, Japanese waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes; hydrogenated oils concrete at 25 ° C, ozokerites, fatty esters and glycerides concrete at 25 ° C; polyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; concrete hydrogenated oils at 25 ° C; lanolines; concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C; silicone waxes; fluorinated waxes; their mixtures.
  • microcrystalline waxes paraffin, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, ozokerite, montan wax
  • beeswax lanolin and its derivatives
  • candellila Ouricury, Camauba, Japanese waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar
  • the fatty phase can be present in proportions ranging, for example, up to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, these proportions varying according to selected application.
  • Oils or waxes can be introduced into the aqueous phase in the presence of one or more surfactants to ensure better dispersion.
  • compositions according to the invention can therefore also contain one or more O / W surfactants or ionic or nonionic cosurfactants, of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 8, usually used in the cosmetic field.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • the amount of surfactant or cosurfactant preferably ranges from 0.05 to 8% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can also comprise any additional compound usually used in the cosmetic field.
  • These complementary compounds can be chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients that are lipophilic or hydrophilic, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingoiipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sun filters, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
  • antioxidants can be chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients that are lipophilic or hydrophilic, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingoiipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sun filters, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the gels and the compositions with an aqueous continuous phase according to the invention can be prepared according to the conventional methods for preparing the sticks, these methods being well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the gels and compositions according to the invention may constitute make-up or care products for the skin, in particular the body, the face and / or the scalp, or keratin fibers, in particular the hair, nails, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, or also mucous membranes, in particular the lips. They can thus constitute body makeup products, foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, concealers, lipsticks, lip contour pencils, mascaras, contour pencils eyes, sticks for dyeing or making up locks of hair.
  • the amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the Applicant has produced the aqueous gel in the form of the following stick foundation:
  • This gel was prepared as follows: the water and the preservative were heated to 90 ° C., then the gellan was incorporated with stirring. After having waited 15 min, the pigment paste produced beforehand was incorporated by mixing the pigments with propylene glycol. Then we incorporated the silicone powder.
  • the mixture was then poured into a cup and then cooled. The whole is left to stand for 24 hours at room temperature.
  • a very fresh stick is obtained on application, usable with a dry or wet sponge, good grip and easy and homogeneous application on the skin.
  • the hardness of this gel measured as described above is: 10 g
  • EXAMPLE 2 The Applicant has produced the following aqueous gel in the form of a stick for eyeshadow:
  • the hardness of this stick measured as described above is: 5.54 g

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention concerns a solid aqueous gel comprising: (i) at least a hydrophilic gelling agent and (ii) a powder phase comprising at least a filler with deformable particles, the gelling agent being present in the gel at a content not more than 20 wt. % relative to the gel total weight. The invention also concerns a solid composition, having a continuous aqueous phase, comprising said gel. Said gel can be used in stick or waterpact form and can constitute make-up products for the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or keratinous fibres. It has a hardness enabling both an easy disintegration of the product and good stick cohesion. Said gel or said composition can be directly applied on the skin or with a sponge and exhibit very good cosmetic qualities (comfort and softness).

Description

GEL AQUEUX SOLIDE COMPRENANT UN GELIFIANT HYDROPHILE ET DES CHARGES PARΗCULIERESSOLID AQUEOUS GEL COMPRISING A HYDROPHILIC GELLANT AND SPECIAL CHARGES
La présente invention concerne un gel aqueux solide, une composition solide à phase continue aqueuse comprenant un tel gel et leur utilisation dans le domaine cosmétique, notamment pour le maquillage de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou des fibres kératiniques.The present invention relates to a solid aqueous gel, a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising such a gel and their use in the cosmetic field, in particular for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers.
On connaît dans l'industrie cosmétique des produits se présentant sous forme solide. Comme produits de ce type, on peut citer par exemple dans le domaine du maquillage, les bâtons ou "sticks" de rouge à lèvres, de fond de teint ou d'ombre à paupières ; dans le domaine du soin de la peau ou des lèvres, les crayons réparateurs des lèvres, les bâtons ou "sticks" dépigmentants, démaquillants ou hydratants ; dans le domaine de l'hygiène, les sticks déodorants, les sticks ou les pains moussants pour le rasage ou pour le lavage de la peau.Products in solid form are known in the cosmetic industry. As products of this type, mention may be made, for example, in the field of make-up, of sticks or “sticks” of lipstick, foundation or eye shadow; in the field of skin or lip care, lip repair pencils, depigmenting, make-up removing or moisturizing sticks or "sticks"; in the field of hygiene, deodorant sticks, sticks or foam bars for shaving or for washing the skin.
Il est en effet particulièrement intéressant de disposer de produits sous forme de sticks dans la mesure où de tels produits sont très pratiques à utiliser, ils sont facilement transportables, le produit ne risque pas de couler.It is in fact particularly advantageous to have products in the form of sticks insofar as such products are very practical to use, they are easily transportable, the product is not likely to leak.
Par ailleurs, les produits de maquillage sont assez généralement formulés sur la base d'une part d'une phase grasse pour des raisons de confort et de douceur et d'autre part d'une phase pulvérulente qui apporte la couleur souhaitée. Cette phase pulvérulente peut comprendre des pigments et/ou des charges et/ou des nacres. La phase grasse comprend généralement des cires et ou des huiles et/ou des composés pâteux.Furthermore, makeup products are fairly generally formulated on the one hand on the basis of an oily phase for reasons of comfort and softness and on the other hand on a pulverulent phase which provides the desired color. This pulverulent phase can comprise pigments and / or fillers and / or nacres. The fatty phase generally comprises waxes and / or oils and / or pasty compounds.
Or, les sticks formulés à base de cires présentent certains inconvénients : ils ont un caractère gras qui n'est pas apprécié par les utilisateurs et ils manquent de fraîcheur à l'application. En outre, il est difficile d'y introduire des actifs hydrophiles.However, the sticks formulated based on waxes have certain disadvantages: they have a fatty character which is not appreciated by the users and they lack freshness on application. In addition, it is difficult to introduce hydrophilic active agents into it.
On cherche donc de plus en plus à faire des sticks de maquillage comprenant une phase aqueuse dans la plus grande concentration possible. Il est bien sûr connu de faire des sticks non gras tels que les sticks déodorants mais ces derniers contiennent rarement des pigments ou des nacres.It is therefore increasingly sought to make makeup sticks comprising an aqueous phase in the greatest possible concentration. It is of course known to make non-greasy sticks such as deodorant sticks but the latter rarely contain pigments or nacres.
Or il s'avère que la présence de pigments ou de nacres au sein de sticks aqueux entraîne des problèmes de délitage du produit, c'est-à-dire de prise du produit : en effet, ces pigments et/ou ces nacres, indispensables aux produits de maquillage pour apporter la couleur, sont des particules solides non solubilisées dans la composition finale. De ce fait elles sont susceptibles d'interférer sur la stabilité de cette dernière.However, it turns out that the presence of pigments or nacres in aqueous sticks leads to problems of disintegration of the product, that is to say of taking the product: in fact, these pigments and / or these nacres, essential make-up products to bring color are solid particles which are not dissolved in the final composition. Therefore they are likely to interfere with the stability of the latter.
Par ailleurs, il est primordial, pour un produit de maquillage en particulier, que le prélèvement du produit se fasse de façon idéale, c'est-à-dire permette, de façon simple, à l'aide du doigt ou d'une éponge ou même directement sur la peau du corps par exemple, de prendre non seulement la quantité de produit adéquate (pas trop pour ne pas perdre de produit inutilement mais suffisamment pour assurer un effet maquillage) mais également de conserver l'intégrité du produit au moment de son prélèvement : il ne faut pas casser le produit par un phénomène de cisaillement mais bien prélever l'ensemble du produit avec les pigments et/ou les nacres, et/ou éventuellement les charges, qui assurent la fonction du maquillage. Ce n'est qu'à cette condition que l'application du produit pourra se faire de façon homogène et que le maquillage obtenu sera uniforme.Furthermore, it is essential, for a makeup product in particular, that the removal of the product be carried out in an ideal manner, that is to say, allows, in a simple manner, using the finger or a sponge. or even directly on the skin of the body for example, to take not only the quantity of adequate product (not too much not to lose product unnecessarily but enough to ensure a makeup effect) but also to preserve the integrity of the product at the time of its removal: the product must not be broken by a shearing phenomenon, but the entire product must be removed with the pigments and / or pearlescent agents, and / or possibly the fillers, which ensure the function of the makeup. It is only under this condition that the application of the product can be done in a homogeneous manner and that the makeup obtained will be uniform.
Il est connu des gels aqueux solides stables comprenant des pigments : mais ces produits sont généralement impossibles à déliter; ils sont souvent cassants, il est donc impossible de prendre du produit sur le doigt ou sur une éponge. De tels produits ne permettent pas le dépôt d'un film homogène sur la peau. Des produits délitables existent également mais ils sont alors trop mous et finissent par se cisailler lors d'applications répétées ou encore présentent des phénomènes de synérèse au cours du temps, c'est-à-dire que la partie liquide finit par s'exsuder et le produit présente deux phases : une phase solide indélitable et une phase liquide. Le produit ne peut plus assurer sa fonction, à savoir, maquiller, puisqu'il est impossible de prendre les pigments sur le doigt ou sur une éponge.Stable solid aqueous gels comprising pigments are known: but these products are generally impossible to disintegrate; they are often brittle, so it is impossible to take the product on the finger or on a sponge. Such products do not allow the deposition of a homogeneous film on the skin. Breakable products also exist but they are then too soft and end up shearing during repeated applications or even exhibit phenomena of syneresis over time, that is to say that the liquid part ends up exuding and the product has two phases: an indelible solid phase and a liquid phase. The product can no longer ensure its function, namely, make up, since it is impossible to take the pigments on the finger or on a sponge.
En outre, des gels rigides aqueux sont décrits dans le document WO-A-97/17055. Toutefois, ces gels nécessitent l'emploi d'une concentration assez élevée de gélifiant ou font appel à une technique de préparation particulière, l'extrusion. En outre, ces sticks, du fait de la concentration élevée en gélifiant, manquent de fraîcheur et de douceur lors de l'application sur la peau.In addition, rigid aqueous gels are described in document WO-A-97/17055. However, these gels require the use of a fairly high concentration of gelling agent or use a special preparation technique, extrusion. In addition, these sticks, due to the high concentration of gelling agent, lack freshness and softness when applied to the skin.
Pour remédier à ces problèmes de délitage, il a été proposé d'incorporer dans ces gels des charges de nature chimique particulière, comme la silice ou le Nylon. Toutefois, les produits ainsi obtenus présentent des qualités cosmétiques nettement insuffisantes : ils sont rêches au toucher, procurent des sensations d'inconfort tels que du dessèchement ou des tiraillements une fois que le produit est déposé sur la peau. Ils présentent également des qualités d'application difficiles en présence de pigments.To remedy these disintegration problems, it has been proposed to incorporate in these gels fillers of a particular chemical nature, such as silica or nylon. However, the products thus obtained have clearly insufficient cosmetic qualities: they are rough to the touch, provide feelings of discomfort such as drying or tightness once the product is deposited on the skin. They also have difficult application qualities in the presence of pigments.
Aussi, il subsiste le besoin d'un gel aqueux solide, ne présentant pas les inconvénients de l'art antérieur.Also, there remains the need for a solid aqueous gel, not having the drawbacks of the prior art.
La demanderesse a découvert de façon inattendue qu'en associant à un gélifiant hydrophile une charge de nature particulière, à savoir une charge à particules déformables, il était possible de réaliser des gels aqueux solides comprenant éventuellement des pigments et/ou des nacres, ces gels pouvant se déliter facilement au doigt ou à l'éponge ou encore directement sur la peau du visage ou du corps et présentant des qualités cosmétiques remarquables. La présente invention porte donc sur un gel aqueux solide comprenant i) au moins un gélifiant hydrophile et ii) une phase pulvérulente comprenant au moins une charge à particules déformables, le gélifiant hydrophile étant présent dans le gel à une teneur inférieure ou égale à 20% en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.The Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that by associating with a hydrophilic gelling agent a filler of a particular nature, namely a filler with deformable particles, it was possible to produce solid aqueous gels optionally comprising pigments and / or nacres, these gels can be easily disintegrated with a finger or a sponge or directly on the skin of the face or body and having remarkable cosmetic qualities. The present invention therefore relates to a solid aqueous gel comprising i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii) a pulverulent phase comprising at least one filler with deformable particles, the hydrophilic gelling agent being present in the gel at a content less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
Les gels de l'invention présentent des qualités d'application et de délitage excellentes. En particulier, grâce à l'association selon l'invention, on obtient, à dureté équivalente, un niveau de délitage supérieur à celui des sticks connus. La prise du produit est facile, elle peut s'effectuer directement sur le corps ou avec le doigt ou encore à l'éponge, en prélevant une quantité suffisante de produit, facile à appliquer ensuite sur la peau de façon homogène, sans nécessiter de mouillage préalable. Le gel s'étale facilement sur la peau. Le maquillage obtenu est uniforme et homogène.The gels of the invention have excellent application and disintegration qualities. In particular, thanks to the combination according to the invention, a level of disintegration higher than that of known sticks is obtained, at equivalent hardness. Taking the product is easy, it can be done directly on the body or with the finger or even with a sponge, taking a sufficient amount of product, easy to apply then on the skin evenly, without the need for wetting prior. The gel spreads easily on the skin. The makeup obtained is uniform and homogeneous.
Ces gels présentent d'excellentes qualités cosmétiques : le confort et la douceur du film après séchage sur la peau sont améliorés. Ce film est non desséchant et n'apporte pas de sensation de tiraillement une fois sec.These gels have excellent cosmetic qualities: the comfort and smoothness of the film after drying on the skin are improved. This film is non-drying and does not give a feeling of tightness when dry.
Ces gels sont stables dans le temps et à la température. Ainsi, après avoir été conservés deux mois à température ambiante ou à 45°C, ils ne présentent aucun phénomène de synérèse (exsudation) ou encore de déphasage : leur aspect et leur dureté n'ont pas varié.These gels are stable over time and at temperature. Thus, after having been stored for two months at room temperature or at 45 ° C, they show no phenomenon of syneresis (exudation) or even phase shift: their appearance and hardness have not varied.
Les gels selon l'invention n'exsudent pas, même à de faibles taux de gélifiant, et ils ne nécessitent pas obligatoirement l'intervention d'une technique de préparation particulière. Ils procurent à l'application une sensation de grande fraîcheur tout en conservant de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques, en particulier de douceur.The gels according to the invention do not exude, even at low levels of gelling agent, and they do not necessarily require the intervention of a particular preparation technique. They give the application a feeling of great freshness while retaining good cosmetic properties, in particular of softness.
La présente invention a également pour objet une composition solide à phase continue aqueuse comprenant un gel tel que défini ci-dessus. La présente invention a également pour objet un produit de maquillage de la peau ou des fibres kératiniques comprenant un gel et/ou une composition tels que définis ci-dessus.The present invention also relates to a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising a gel as defined above. The present invention also relates to a product for making up the skin or keratin fibers comprising a gel and / or a composition as defined above.
La présente invention a encore pour objet un procédé de maquillage de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou des fibres kératiniques, consistant à appliquer sur ces dernières, un gel aqueux et/ou une composition solides et/ou un produit de maquillage tels que définis ci-dessus.The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the latter, an aqueous gel and / or a solid composition and / or a make-up product such as defined above.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par gel ou composition solide, un gel ou composition présentant une dureté définie par une force maximum avant rupture allant de 5 à 50 grammes, à température ambiante (20-25°C), après pénétration par un mobile en inox de 2 mm de diamètre dans la matrice du gel ou composition à une épaisseur de 1 mm à une vitesse de 1 mm/s et retrait dudit mobile de la matrice du gel ou composition à une vitesse de 2 mm/s ; la force maximum avant rupture étant mesurée avec un analyseur de texture du type "TAXT2" commercialisé par la Société RHEO.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “gel or solid composition” means a gel or composition having a hardness defined by a maximum force before rupture ranging from 5 to 50 grams, at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), after penetration by a 2 mm diameter stainless steel mobile in the gel matrix or composition at a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 1 mm / s and removal of said mobile from the gel matrix or composition at a speed of 2 mm / s; the maximum force before rupture being measured with a texture analyzer of the "TAXT2" type sold by the company RHEO.
De préférence encore, la force maximum avant rupture va de 7 à 40 g.More preferably, the maximum force before rupture ranges from 7 to 40 g.
Le gel selon l'invention comprend un gélifiant hydrophile. Par gélifiant, on entend un composé qui, en présence d'un solvant, crée des liaisons intermacromolécuiaires plus ou moins fortes induisant ainsi un réseau tridimensionnel qui fige ledit solvant.The gel according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent. By gelling agent, is meant a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.
Ce gélifiant hydrophile peut être choisi parmi les polysaccharides, les dérivés de protéines, les gels de synthèse ou d'hémisynthèse de type polyester, les polyacrylates ou polyméthacrylates et leurs dérivés.This hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of polyester type, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
Parmi les polysaccharides, on peut citer : - les extraits d'algue tels que l'agar-agar, les carraghénanes (iota, kappa, lambda), les alginates, en particulier de Na ou Ca ;Among the polysaccharides, there may be mentioned: - seaweed extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans (iota, kappa, lambda), alginates, in particular Na or Ca;
- les exsudats de micro-organismes tels que la gomme de xanthane et ses dérivés comme le produit vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "Rhéosan" par la Société Rhodia Chimie, le gellane,- exudates from microorganisms such as xanthan gum and its derivatives such as the product sold under the trade name "Rhéosan" by the company Rhodia Chimie, gellan,
- les extraits de fruits tels que les pectines ;- fruit extracts such as pectins;
- les agents gélifiants d'origine animale comme les dérivés de protéine, en particulier la gélatine, de boeuf ou de poisson, les casemates ;- gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, in particular gelatin, beef or fish, casemates;
- les polysaccharides possédant une chaîne latérale et 6 sucres neutres tels que décrits dans le document FR-A-2759377,the polysaccharides having a side chain and 6 neutral sugars as described in the document FR-A-2759377,
- et leurs mélanges.- and their mixtures.
De préférence, le gélifiant hydrophile est choisi parmi les polysaccharides, et de préférence encore, le gélifiant hydrophile est le gellane.Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, and more preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is gellan.
Comme produits convenant particulièrement bien à l'invention, on peut citer la gomme de gellane vendue sous la dénomination commerciale « Kelcogel F » par la société NUTRASWEET-KELCO ou encore le iota carraghenane vendu sous les dénominations commerciales « Seaspen PF 357 » ou « Viscarin SD 389 » par la société FMC.As products which are particularly suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned gellan gum sold under the trade name “Kelcogel F” by the company NUTRASWEET-KELCO or else iota carraghenane sold under the trade names “Seaspen PF 357” or “Viscarin SD 389 "by FMC.
Le gélifiant hydrophile est présent dans le gel selon l'invention à une concentration allant jusqu'à à 20% en poids, et de. préférence de 0,2 à 10%, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel. Cette concentration permet d'obtenir la dureté et la consistance convenables pour un délitage idéal.The hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the gel according to the invention at a concentration of up to 20% by weight, and of . preferably 0.2 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel. This concentration makes it possible to obtain the hardness and consistency suitable for an ideal crumbling.
Le gel selon l'invention comprend également une phase pulvérulente qui comprend au moins une charge à particules déformables.The gel according to the invention also comprises a pulverulent phase which comprises at least one filler with deformable particles.
Par charges, il faut comprendre des particules incolores ou blanches, minérales ou de synthèse, sphériques ou non sphériques, destinées à donner du corps ou de la rigidité à la composition, et/ou de la douceur, de la matité et de l'uniformité au maquillage.By fillers, it is necessary to understand colorless or white particles, mineral or synthetic, spherical or non-spherical, intended to give body or rigidity in composition, and / or softness, matness and uniformity in make-up.
Par charge à particules déformables, on entend, au sens de la présente invention, des particules sphériques ou non de dureté suffisamment faible pour se déformer lors du prélèvement de la composition au doigt ou à l'éponge ou directement par frottement sur la peau lorsqu'il s'agit d'un stick. En particulier, par" déformable", il faut comprendre que les particules sont souples et élastiques : après écrasement, elles reprennent leur forme initiale.By filler with deformable particles is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, spherical particles or not of sufficiently low hardness to deform when the composition is removed using a finger or a sponge or directly by friction on the skin when it is a stick. In particular, by "deformable", it should be understood that the particles are flexible and elastic: after crushing, they return to their initial shape.
Ces particules peuvent être de toute nature chimique. De préférence, elles présentent une taille moyenne des particules allant de 0,1 à 500 microns, et de préférence de 1 à 100 microns. Elles peuvent être pleines ou creuses.These particles can be of any chemical nature. Preferably, they have an average particle size ranging from 0.1 to 500 microns, and preferably from 1 to 100 microns. They can be full or hollow.
Comme exemple de particules déformables pleines, on peut citer des particules d'organosiloxane réticulé ou « poudre de caoutchouc de silicone » tel que décrites dans le document JP 10 175816 dont la dureté JIS A est égale ou inférieure à 80 et de préférence inférieure à 65. Ces particules peuvent être enrobées de tensioactif ou de fine poudre organique. Elles peuvent également contenir une huile non réticulée de silicone ou hydrocarbonée pouvant exsuder de la « poudre de caoutchouc de silicone ».As an example of solid deformable particles, there may be mentioned particles of crosslinked organosiloxane or “silicone rubber powder” as described in document JP 10 175816, the JIS A hardness of which is equal to or less than 80 and preferably less than 65 These particles can be coated with surfactant or a fine organic powder. They may also contain a non-crosslinked silicone or hydrocarbon oil which may exude "silicone rubber powder".
On peut citer les poudre de caoutchouc de silicone à 63% en dispersion aqueuse vendue sous les dénominations commerciales "BY29-119" « BY-29-122 » par Dow Corning.Mention may be made of the 63% silicone rubber powder in aqueous dispersion sold under the trade names "BY29-119" "BY-29-122" by Dow Corning.
Les particules déformables pleines utilisables selon la présente invention ont de préférence une densité allant de 0,8 à 4, de préférence encore allant de 0,8 à 1 ,5.The solid deformable particles which can be used according to the present invention preferably have a density ranging from 0.8 to 4, more preferably ranging from 0.8 to 1.5.
Lorsque les particules déformables sont creuses ou encore remplies par un gaz ou de l'air, elles présentent, de façon avantageuse, une densité allant de 0,015 à 0,2 et mieux supérieure à 0,04 et/ou inférieure à 0,1 et notamment allant de 0,06 à 0,08.When the deformable particles are hollow or filled with gas or air, they advantageously have a density ranging from 0.015 to 0.2 and better still greater than 0.04 and / or less than 0.1 and in particular ranging from 0.06 to 0.08.
On peut, par exemple, utiliser un copolymère contenant : de 1 % à 60 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total du copolymère, de motifs dérivés du chlorure de vinylidène, de 20 % à 90 % en poids, par rapport au poids total du copolymère de motifs dérivés d'acrylonitrile et de 1 % à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total du copolymère de motifs dérivés d'un monomère acrylique, la somme des pourcentages en poids étant égale à 100. Le monomère acrylique est par exemple un acrylate ou méthacrylate de méthyle et, en particulier le méthacrylate. Ces particules se présentent notamment à l'état sec ou hydraté.One can, for example, use a copolymer containing: from 1% to 60%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the copolymer, of units derived from vinylidene chloride, from 20% to 90% by weight, relative to the weight total of the copolymer of units derived from acrylonitrile and from 1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the copolymer of units derived from an acrylic monomer, the sum of the percentages by weight being equal to 100. The acrylic monomer is for example a methyl acrylate or methacrylate and, in particular methacrylate. These particles are present in particular in the dry or hydrated state.
Ce copolymère est non toxique et non irritant pour la peau.This copolymer is non-toxic and non-irritating to the skin.
De préférence, les particules creuses se présentent sous forme de microsphères et ont une taille moyenne ou granulométrie allant de 10 μm à 60 μm.Preferably, the hollow particles are in the form of microspheres and have an average size or particle size ranging from 10 μm to 60 μm.
Les particules creuses de l'invention peuvent être obtenues, par exemple, selon les procédés des brevets et demandes de brevet EP-56 219, EP-348 372, EP-486 080, EP-320473, EP-112 807 et US-3 615 972.The hollow particles of the invention can be obtained, for example, according to the methods of patents and patent applications EP-56 219, EP-348 372, EP-486 080, EP-320473, EP-112 807 and US-3 615,972.
La cavité interne des particules contient en principe un gaz qui peut être de l'air, de l'azote ou un hydrocarbure comme l'isobutane ou l'isopentane.The internal cavity of the particles in principle contains a gas which can be air, nitrogen or a hydrocarbon such as isobutane or isopentane.
Les particules creuses utilisables dans l'invention sont en particulier celles vendues sous la marque Expancel par la Société Casco Nobel telles que l'Expancel 551 DE 20 de granulométrie de 27 μm et de densité 0,052 environ, l'Expancel 551 DE 80 de granulométrie de 50 μm et de densité 0,045 environ, l'Expancel 051 DE de granulométrie de 30 μm et de densité 0,056 environ, l'Expancel 461 DE de granulométrie de 30 μm et de densité 0,058 environ, l'Expancel 551 DE 12 de granulométrie de 17 μm et de densité 0,07 environ, ou encore les Expancel de la série "W" comme l'Expancel 551 W 20 de granulométrie de 27 μm et de densité 0,033 environ.The hollow particles which can be used in the invention are in particular those sold under the brand name Expancel by the company Casco Nobel such as the Expancel 551 DE 20 with a particle size of 27 μm and a density of about 0.052, the Expancel 551 DE 80 with a particle size of 50 μm and density approximately 0.045, Expancel 051 DE with a particle size of 30 μm and density approximately 0.056, Expancel 461 DE with a particle size of 30 μm and density approximately 0.058, Expancel 551 DE 12 with a particle size of 17 μm and density approximately 0.07, or again the Expancel of the "W" series such as the Expancel 551 W 20 with a particle size of 27 μm and a density of about 0.033.
De préférence, les charges à particules déformables sont présentes dans les gels selon l'invention à une teneur allant de 0,1 à 50 % en poids par rapport au poids du gel. Cette teneur peut varier, en particulier en fonction de la densité de la charge à particules déformable. Ainsi, quand cette charge a une densité allant de 0,015 à 0,2, alors elle est de préférence présente à une teneur allant de 0,1 à 10% en poids, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel. Quand cette charge a une densité allant de 0,8 à 4, alors elle est de préférence présente à une teneur allant de 1 à 50%, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.Preferably, the fillers with deformable particles are present in the gels according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the gel. This content can vary, in particular depending on the density of the load with deformable particles. Thus, when this filler has a density ranging from 0.015 to 0.2, then it is preferably present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel. When this filler has a density ranging from 0.8 to 4, then it is preferably present at a content ranging from 1 to 50%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
Par exemple pour les particules déformables creuses telles que les Expancels cités ci-dessus, cette teneur va généralement de 0,1 % à 10 % en poids de particules et mieux de 0,3 % à 5 % en poids et encore de 0,3 % à 2 %, par rapport au poids total du gel.For example, for hollow deformable particles such as the Expancels mentioned above, this content generally ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight of particles and better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight and again from 0.3 % to 2%, based on the total weight of the gel.
La phase pulvérulente peut comprendre, outre les charges à particules déformables citées ci-dessus, d'autres charges, qui peuvent être minérales ou de synthèse, lamellaires ou non lamellaires, ainsi des pigments et/ou des nacres.The pulverulent phase can comprise, in addition to the fillers with deformable particles mentioned above, other fillers, which can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, as well as pigments and / or nacres.
Comme autre charge, on peut citer le talc, le mica, la silice, le kaolin, les poudres de Nylon, de polyéthylène, le Téflon, la lauroyl-lysine, l'amidon, le nitrure de bore, l'oxychlorure de bismuth, les poudres de polymères de tétrafluoroéthylène, les poudres de polyméthyl méthacrylate, les poudres de polyuréthanne, les poudres de polystyrène, les poudres de polyester, les microsphères creuses synthétiques, les microbilles de résine de silicone non déformables, les oxydes de zinc et de titane, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cérium, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l' hydrocarbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite, les microsphères de silice creuses, les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique, les savons métalliques dérivés d'acides organiques carboxyliques ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, comme le stéarate de zinc, de magnésium ou de lithium, le laurate de zinc, le myristate de magnésium, les composés Si02/TiO2/ SiO2, TiO2/CeO2/Si02, ou encore TiO2/ZnO/Talc, les polymères de poiyéthylène terephtalate/polyméthacrylate en forme de paillettes.As other filler, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon, polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres, non-deformable silicone resin microbeads, zinc and titanium oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbon, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as stearate zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, compounds Si0 2 / TiO 2 / SiO 2 , TiO 2 / CeO 2 / Si0 2 , or even TiO 2 / ZnO / Talc, polymers of polyethylene terephthalate / polymethacrylate in the form of flakes.
Les charges peuvent être présentes dans la composition à raison de 0,1-60 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence à raison de 0,1 à 40%, de préférence encore 1-20%,The fillers may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1-60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 40%, more preferably 1-20%,
Par pigments, il faut comprendre des particules blanches ou colorées, minérales ou organiques, insolubles dans le milieu, c'est-à-dire dans le gel, destinées à colorer et/ou opacifier la composition.The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
Les pigments peuvent être présents à raison de 0-40 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence à raison de 0,1 à 30% et de préférence encore à raison de 1-20 %. Ils peuvent être blancs ou colorés, minéraux et/ou organiques, de taille usuelle ou nanométrique. Par taille nanométrique, on entend des pigments dont la taille moyenne des particules va de 5 à 100 nm.The pigments can be present in an amount of 0-40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20%. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, of usual size or nanometric. By nanometric size is meant pigments with an average particle size of 5 to 100 nm.
On peut citer, parmi les pigments et les nanopigments minéraux, les dioxydes de titane, de zirconium ou de cérium, ainsi que les oxydes de zinc, de fer ou de chrome, les nanotitanes, le bleu ferrique. Parmi les pigments organiques, on peut citer le noir de carbone, et les laques couramment employées pour conférer aux lèvres et à la peau un effet de maquillage, qui sont des sels de calcium, de baryum, d'aluminium ou de zirconium, de colorants acides tels que les colorants halogéno-acides, azoïques ou anthraquinoniques.Among the inorganic pigments and nanopigments, there may be mentioned titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, nanotitanes, ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, and the lacquers commonly used to give the lips and the skin a makeup effect, which are calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, dyes acids such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes.
Les pigments peuvent notamment être enrobés par des composés siiiconés tels que des PDMS et/ou par des polymères, notamment des polyéthylènes ou encore par des composés fluorés. On peut ainsi citer les pigments SA de Maprecos ou les pigments PI de Myoshi. Par nacres, il faut comprendre des particules irisées qui réfléchissent la lumière, insolubles dans le milieu, c'est-à-dire dans le gel.The pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes or also with fluorinated compounds. We can thus cite SA pigments from Maprecos or PI pigments from Myoshi. By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles which reflect light, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel.
Les nacres peuvent être présentes dans la composition à raison de 0-40% en poids, de préférence à raison de 0,1 à 30% et de préférence encore à raison de 1-20% en poids.The nacres can be present in the composition in an amount of 0-40% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20% by weight.
Parmi les nacres envisageables, on peut citer la nacre naturelle, le mica recouvert d'oxyde de titane, d'oxyde de fer, de pigment naturel ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth ainsi que le mica titane coloré.Among the possible nacres, mention may be made of natural mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored titanium mica.
De manière générale, la phase pulvérulente comprend suffisamment de pigments et/ou nacres pour assurer l'effet maquillage souhaité. De préférence, la phase pulvérulente comprend au moins un pigment et/ou une nacre. Ainsi, de préférence, le gel aqueux selon l'invention n'est pas transparent, c'est-à-dire qu'on ne peut pas voir les caractères d'une page de journal à travers le gel. De préférence encore il n'est pas translucide, c'est-à-dire qu'il ne permet pas le passage de la lumière.Generally, the pulverulent phase comprises sufficient pigments and / or pearlescent agents to ensure the desired makeup effect. Preferably, the pulverulent phase comprises at least one pigment and / or a nacre. Thus, preferably, the aqueous gel according to the invention is not transparent, that is to say that the characters of a newspaper page cannot be seen through the gel. More preferably, it is not translucent, that is to say that it does not allow the passage of light.
La phase pulvérulente comprend de préférence de 0,1 à 40%, de préférence encore de 0,1 à 20% en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel, de pigments et/ou nacres.The pulverulent phase preferably comprises from 0.1 to 40%, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, of pigments and / or nacres.
Les gels de l'invention contiennent en outre un milieu cosmétiquement ou physiologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire un milieu compatible avec toutes les matières kératiniques telles que la peau, les ongles, les cheveux, les cils et sourcils, les muqueuses et les semi-muqueuses, et toute autre zone cutanée du corps et du visage.The gels of the invention also contain a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face.
Les gels selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre une eau florale telle que l'eau de bleuet et ou une eau minérale telle que l'eau de VITTEL, l'eau de LUCAS ou l'eau de LA ROCHE POSAY et/ou une eau thermale, des colorants hydrosolubles choisis parmi les colorants usuels du domaine considéré tels que le sel disodique de ponceau, le sel disodique du vert d'alizarine, le jaune de quinoléine, le sel trisodique d'amarante, le sel disodique de tartrazine, le sel monosodique de rhodamine, le sel disodique de fuchsine, la xanthophylle.The gels according to the invention can also comprise a floral water such as blueberry water and or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a water thermal, dyes water-soluble chosen from the usual dyes of the field considered such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium fuchsin salt, xanthophyll.
De préférence, les gels selon l'invention comprennent jusqu'à 99,8% en poids, de préférence de 20 à 99% en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel, d'eau.Preferably, the gels according to the invention comprise up to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 20 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, of water.
Les gels selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre des solvants autres que l'eau comme par exemple les alcools primaires tels que l'éthanol et l'isopropanol, les glycols tels que le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, le diéthylène glycol, les éthers de glycol tel que les alkyl(C-|-C4)éther de mono, di- ou tripropylène glycol, mono, di- ou triéthylène glycol, et leurs mélanges.The gels according to the invention can also comprise solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C- | -C4) ether of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
II est possible de modifier la rigidité des gels selon l'invention en y ajoutant un ou plusieurs sels qui vont augmenter cette rigidité. Ces sels peuvent être choisis parmi les sels des métaux mono-, di- ou trivalents, et plus particulièrement les sels de métal alcalin et alcalino-terreux et en particulier les sels de sodium, de calcium ou de magnésium. Les ions constituant ces sels peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les carbonates, les bicarbonates, les sulfates, les glycérophosphates, les borates, les chlorures, les nitrates, les acétates, les hydroxydes, les persulfates ainsi que les sels d'α-hydroxyacides (citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) ou d'acides de fruits, ou encore les sels d'acides aminés (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate). La quantité de sel peut aller de 0,01 à 2 % et de préférence de 0,1 à 1 % du poids total du gel.It is possible to modify the rigidity of the gels according to the invention by adding one or more salts which will increase this rigidity. These salts can be chosen from the mono-, di- or trivalent metal salts, and more particularly the alkali and alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium, calcium or magnesium salts. The ions constituting these salts can be chosen, for example, from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, glycerophosphates, borates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, persulfates as well as the α-hydroxy acid salts ( citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or fruit acids, or the amino acid salts (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate). The amount of salt can range from 0.01 to 2% and preferably from 0.1 to 1% of the total weight of the gel.
De préférence, le sel est choisi parmi le nitrate de calcium, de magnésium ou de strontium, le borate de calcium ou de magnésium, le chlorure de calcium, de sodium, de magnésium, de strontium, de néodyme ou de manganèse, le sulfate de magnésium ou de calcium, l'acétate de calcium ou de magnésium, et leurs mélanges. De préférence encore, le sel est le chlorure de magnésium. Les gels de l'invention peuvent être incorporés au sein de compositions cosmétiques et en constituer la phase continue. De telles compositions peuvent ainsi comprendre une phase grasse qui peut par exemple comprendre une huile.Preferably, the salt is chosen from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium, sodium, magnesium, strontium, neodymium or manganese chloride, sodium sulfate. magnesium or calcium, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the salt is magnesium chloride. The gels of the invention can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions and constitute the continuous phase thereof. Such compositions can thus comprise a fatty phase which can for example comprise an oil.
Parmi les huiles utilisables, on peut citer les huiles d'origine animale, végétale ou minérale, telles que l'huile de paraffine, de vaseline, le perhydrosqualène, l'huile d'abricot, l'huile de germes de blé, d'amande douce, de calophyllum, de sésame, de macadamia, de pépins de raisin, de colza, de coprah, d'arachide, de palme, de ricin, d'avocat, de jojoba, d'olive ou de germes de céréales; des esters d'acides gras et de polyol, en particulier les triglycérides liquides; des alcools; des acétylglycérides; des octanoates, décanoates ou ricinoléates d'alcools ou de polyalcools; des triglycérides d'acides gras; des glycérides, les huiles fluorées et perfluorées; les huiles de synthèse telles que les esters gras; les huiles de silicone telles que les huiles de silicone volatile, les polymethylsiloxanes, les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes, les polysiloxanes modifiés par des acides gras, des alcools gras ou des polyoxyalkylènes, les silicones fluorées et les huiles perfluorées.Among the oils which can be used, mention may be made of oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, such as paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond, calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, coconut, peanut, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones and perfluorinated oils.
La phase grasse des compositions selon l'invention peut comprendre en outre d'autres corps gras, qui peuvent être choisis par l'homme du métier sur base de ses connaissances générales, de manière à conférer à la composition finale les propriétés souhaitées, par exemple en consistance, en texture et/ou en transfert. Ces corps gras additionnels peuvent être des cires, des gommes et/ou des corps gras pâteux d'origine animale, végétale, minérale ou synthétique, ainsi que leurs mélanges.The fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention can also comprise other fatty substances, which can be chosen by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to confer on the final composition the desired properties, for example in consistency, texture and / or transfer. These additional fatty substances can be waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, as well as their mixtures.
On peut notamment citer :We can notably cite:
- les gommes de silicones, - les cires d'origine animale, végétale, minérale ou synthétique telles que les cires microcristallines, la paraffine, le pétrolatum, la vaseline, l'ozokérite, la cire de montan; la cire d'abeilles, la lanoline et ses dérivés; les cires de Candellila, d'Ouricury, de Camauba, du Japon, le beurre de cacao, les cires de fibres de lièges ou de canne à sucre; les huiles hydrogénées concrètes à 25°C, les ozokérites, les esters gras et les glycérides concrets à 25°C; les cires de polyéthylène et les cires obtenues par synthèse de Fischer-Tropsch; des huiles hydrogénées concrètes à 25°C; des lanolines; des esters gras concrets à 25°C; les cires de silicone; les cires fluorées; leurs mélanges.- silicone gums, - animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, ozokerite, montan wax; beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; candellila, Ouricury, Camauba, Japanese waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes; hydrogenated oils concrete at 25 ° C, ozokerites, fatty esters and glycerides concrete at 25 ° C; polyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; concrete hydrogenated oils at 25 ° C; lanolines; concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C; silicone waxes; fluorinated waxes; their mixtures.
La phase grasse peut être présente dans des proportions allant, par exemple, jusqu'à 30 %, de préférence de 0,1 à 20% et mieux de 0,5 à 10 % du poids total de la composition, ces proportions variant selon l'application choisie.The fatty phase can be present in proportions ranging, for example, up to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, these proportions varying according to selected application.
Les huiles ou les cires peuvent être introduites dans la phase aqueuse en présence d'un ou de plusieurs tensioactifs pour assurer une meilleure dispersion.Oils or waxes can be introduced into the aqueous phase in the presence of one or more surfactants to ensure better dispersion.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent donc également contenir un ou plusieurs tensioactifs H/E ou cotensio-actifs ioniques ou non ioniques , de HLB (hydrophile-lipophile balance) supérieur ou égal à 8, habituellement utilisés dans le domaine cosmétique. Lorsqu'il est présent, la quantité d'agent tensioactif ou de cotensio-actif va de préférence de 0,05 à 8 % du poids total de la composition.The compositions according to the invention can therefore also contain one or more O / W surfactants or ionic or nonionic cosurfactants, of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 8, usually used in the cosmetic field. When it is present, the amount of surfactant or cosurfactant preferably ranges from 0.05 to 8% of the total weight of the composition.
La composition peut comprendre en outre tout composé complémentaire usuellement utilisé dans le domaine cosmétique. Ces composés complémentaires peuvent être choisis parmi les antioxydants, les huiles essentielles, les conservateurs, les actifs cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques lipophiles ou hydrophiles, les hydratants, les vitamines, les acides gras essentiels, les sphingoiipides, les composés auto-bronzants tels que la DHA, les filtres solaires, les parfums, et leurs mélanges. Bien entendu l'homme du métier veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires, et/ou leur quantité, de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses du gel et/ou de la composition selon l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée.The composition can also comprise any additional compound usually used in the cosmetic field. These complementary compounds can be chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients that are lipophilic or hydrophilic, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingoiipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sun filters, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the gel and / or of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the proposed addition.
Les gels et les compositions à phase continue aqueuse selon l'invention peuvent être préparés selon les méthodes de préparation classiques des sticks, ces méthodes étant bien connues de l'homme du métier.The gels and the compositions with an aqueous continuous phase according to the invention can be prepared according to the conventional methods for preparing the sticks, these methods being well known to those skilled in the art.
Les gels et les compositions selon l'invention peuvent constituer des produits de maquillage ou de soin de la peau, en particulier du corps, du visage et/ou du cuir chevelu, ou des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux, des ongles, des cils et/ou des sourcils, ou encore des muqueuses, en particulier des lèvres. Ils peuvent ainsi constituer des produits de maquillage du corps, des fonds de teints, des ombres à paupières, des fards à joues, des anti-cernes, des rouges à lèvres, des crayons du contour des lèvres, des mascaras, des crayons du contour des yeux, des sticks pour la teinture ou le maquillage de mèches de cheveux.The gels and compositions according to the invention may constitute make-up or care products for the skin, in particular the body, the face and / or the scalp, or keratin fibers, in particular the hair, nails, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, or also mucous membranes, in particular the lips. They can thus constitute body makeup products, foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, concealers, lipsticks, lip contour pencils, mascaras, contour pencils eyes, sticks for dyeing or making up locks of hair.
L'invention est illustrée plus en détails dans les exemples suivants.The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.
Dans les exemples suivants, les quantités sont données en pourcentage en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.In the following examples, the amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
EXEMPLE 1 :EXAMPLE 1:
La Demanderesse a réalisé le gel aqueux sous forme de fond de teint en stick suivant :The Applicant has produced the aqueous gel in the form of the following stick foundation:
-Gomme de gellane vendue sous la dénomination commerciale « Kelcogel F » de NUTRASWEET-KELCO 0,5%-Gellan gum sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" from NUTRASWEET-KELCO 0.5%
- chlorure de Mg 0.1% - conservateur qs- 0.1% Mg chloride - conservative qs
- pigments (oxydes de fer et dioxyde de titane) 7.%- pigments (iron oxides and titanium dioxide) 7.%
- propylène glycol 7.%- propylene glycol 7.%
- poudre de caoutchouc de silicone à 63% en dispersion aqueuse vendue sous la dénomination commerciale "BY29-119" par Dow Corning 15%- 63% silicone rubber powder in aqueous dispersion sold under the trade name "BY29-119" by Dow Corning 15%
- eau qsp 100 %- water qs 100%
Ce gel a été préparé de la manière suivante : l'eau et le conservateur ont été chauffés à 90 °C, puis on a incorporé le gellane sous agitation. Après avoir attendu 15 mn, on a incorporé la pâte pigmentaire réalisée préalablement en mélangeant les pigments au propylène glycol. Puis on a incorporé la poudre de silicone.This gel was prepared as follows: the water and the preservative were heated to 90 ° C., then the gellan was incorporated with stirring. After having waited 15 min, the pigment paste produced beforehand was incorporated by mixing the pigments with propylene glycol. Then we incorporated the silicone powder.
Le mélange a ensuite été coulé en coupelle puis refroidi. Le tout est laissé au repos 24 h à température ambiante.The mixture was then poured into a cup and then cooled. The whole is left to stand for 24 hours at room temperature.
On obtient un stick très frais à l'application, utilisable à l'éponge sèche ou mouillée, de bonne prise et d'application facile et homogène sur la peau.A very fresh stick is obtained on application, usable with a dry or wet sponge, good grip and easy and homogeneous application on the skin.
Le maquillage de la peau avec un tel stick donne un résultat naturel et transparent, totalement dépourvu d'effet gras et très doux après évaporation de l'eau.Make-up of the skin with such a stick gives a natural and transparent result, completely devoid of oily effect and very soft after evaporation of the water.
La dureté de ce gel, mesurée comme décrit ci-dessus est de : 10 gThe hardness of this gel, measured as described above is: 10 g
EXEMPLE 2 La Demanderesse a réalisé le gel aqueux sous forme de stick pour Fard à Paupières suivant :EXAMPLE 2 The Applicant has produced the following aqueous gel in the form of a stick for eyeshadow:
-Gomme de gellane vendue sous la dénomination commerciale « Kelcogel F » de NUTRASWEET-KELCO 0,5%-Gellan gum sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" from NUTRASWEET-KELCO 0.5%
- conservateur qsp - eau qsp 100 %- preservative qs - water qs 100%
- microsphères expansées de copolymère chlorure de vinylidène / acrylonitrile / méthacrylate de méthyle contenant de l'isobutane vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « Expancel 551 DE 20 » par Casco Nobel 0,5%- expanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer containing isobutane sold under the trade name "Expancel 551 DE 20" by Casco Nobel 0.5%
- nacres 5%- pearls 5%
- chlorure de magnésium 0,1%- 0.1% magnesium chloride
Ce stick a été préparé de la même façon que dans l'exemple 1.This stick was prepared in the same way as in Example 1.
On obtient un stick utilisable directement sur la peau, de bon délitage et au toucher poudreux non desséchant.We obtain a stick usable directly on the skin, of good disintegration and with a powdery non-drying touch.
La dureté de ce stick, mesurée comme décrit ci-dessus est de : 5,54 gThe hardness of this stick, measured as described above is: 5.54 g
EXEMPLE 3 : comparatifEXAMPLE 3: comparison
La Demanderesse a réalisé le stick suivant de la même façon que dans l'exemple 1 :The Applicant has produced the following stick in the same way as in Example 1:
- gellane 0.5% - chlorure de Mg 0.1%- 0.5% gellan - 0.1% Mg chloride
- conservateur qs- conservative qs
- pigments (oxydes de fer et dioxyde de titane) 7.% - propylène glycol 7.%- pigments (iron oxides and titanium dioxide) 7.% - propylene glycol 7.%
- silice pyrogénee vendue sous la dénomination commerciale « Aérosil 200 » par Degussa 3,15%- pyrogenic silica sold under the trade name "Aérosil 200" by Degussa 3.15%
- eau qsp 100 %- water qs 100%
La dureté de ce stick, mesurée comme décrit ci-dessus, est de : 9,75 gThe hardness of this stick, measured as described above, is: 9.75 g
On obtient un stick très peu confortable qui manque de douceur et qui ne permet pas un dépôt homogène. We obtain a very uncomfortable stick which lacks softness and which does not allow a homogeneous deposit.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Gel aqueux solide comprenant i) au moins un gélifiant hydrophile et ii) une phase pulvérulente comprenant au moins une charge à particules déformables, le gélifiant hydrophile étant présent dans le gel à une teneur inférieure ou égale à 20% en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.1. Solid aqueous gel comprising i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii) a pulverulent phase comprising at least one filler with deformable particles, the hydrophilic gelling agent being present in the gel at a content less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative the total weight of the gel.
2 Gel selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que le gélifiant hydrophile est choisi parmi les polysaccharides, les dérivés de protéines, les gels de synthèse ou d'hémisynthèse de type polyester, en particulier sulfonique, les polyacrylates ou polyméthacrylates et leurs dérivés.2 Gel according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of polyester type, in particular sulfonic, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
3. Gel selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que le gélifiant hydrophile est un polysaccharide choisi parmi : - les extraits d'algue tels que l'agar-agar, les carraghénanes, les alginates, en particulier de Na ou Ca;3. Gel according to claim 2, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is a polysaccharide chosen from: - algae extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates, in particular of Na or Ca;
- les exsudats de micro-organismes tels que la gomme de xanthane et ses dérivés ou encore la gomme de gellane,- exudates from microorganisms such as xanthan gum and its derivatives or gellan gum,
- les extraits de fruits tels que les pectines ; - les agents gélifiants d'origine animale comme les dérivés de protéine, en particulier la gélatine, de boeuf ou de poisson, les casemates ;- fruit extracts such as pectins; - gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, in particular gelatin, beef or fish, casemates;
- les polysaccharides possédant une chaîne latérale et 6 sucres neutres,- polysaccharides having a side chain and 6 neutral sugars,
- et leurs mélanges.- and their mixtures.
4. Gel selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce que le gélifiant hydrophile est choisi parmi le gellane, les caraghénanes et leurs mélanges.4. Gel according to claim 3, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from gellan, carrageenans and their mixtures.
5. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le gélifiant hydrophile est présent à une concentration allant de 0,2 à 10%, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel. 5. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is present at a concentration ranging from 0.2 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
6. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les charges à particules déformables présentent une taille moyenne des particules allant de 0,1 à 500 microns, et de préférence de 1 à 100 microns.6. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fillers with deformable particles have an average particle size ranging from 0.1 to 500 microns, and preferably from 1 to 100 microns.
7. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentesn caractérisé en ce que les charges à particules déformables sont présentes à une teneur allant de 0,1 à 50 % en poids par rapport au poids du gel.7. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fillers with deformable particles are present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the gel.
8. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les charges à particules déformables sont pleines et présentent une densité allant de 0,8 à 4, de préférence encore allant de 0,8 à 1,5.8. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the charges with deformable particles are full and have a density ranging from 0.8 to 4, more preferably ranging from 0.8 to 1.5.
9. Gel selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que lesdites particules sont présentes à une teneur allant de 1 à 50%, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.9. Gel according to claim 8, characterized in that said particles are present at a content ranging from 1 to 50%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
10. Gel selon la revendication 8 ou 9, caractérisé en ce que lesdites particules pleines sont des particules d'organosiloxane réticulé.10. Gel according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that said solid particles are particles of crosslinked organosiloxane.
11. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les charges à particules déformables sont creuses et présentent une densité allant de 0,015 à 0,2, de préférence encore allant de 0,06 à 0,08.11. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fillers with deformable particles are hollow and have a density ranging from 0.015 to 0.2, more preferably ranging from 0.06 to 0.08.
12. Gel selon la revendication 11 , caractérisé en ce que lesdites particules sont présentes à une teneur allant de 0,1 à 10% en poids, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.12. Gel according to claim 11, characterized in that said particles are present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
13. Gel selon la revendication 11 , caractérisé en ce que les particules creuses comprennent un copolymère contenant de de 1 % à 60 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total du copolymère, de motifs dérivés du chlorure de vinylidene, de 20 % à 90 % en poids, par rapport au poids total du copolymère de motifs dérivés d'acrylonitrile et de 1 % à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total du copolymère de motifs dérivés d'un monomère acrylique, la somme des pourcentages en poids étant égale à 100.13. Gel according to claim 11, characterized in that the hollow particles comprise a copolymer containing from 1% to 60%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the copolymer, of units derived from vinylidene chloride, from 20% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the copolymer of units derived from acrylonitrile and from 1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the copolymer of units derived from an acrylic monomer, the sum of the percentages by weight being equal to 100.
14. Gel selon la revendication 13, caractérisé en ce que les particules contiennent de l'air ou un gaz choisi parmi l'azote, l'isobutane ou l'isopentane.14. Gel according to claim 13, characterized in that the particles contain air or a gas chosen from nitrogen, isobutane or isopentane.
15. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications 11 à 14, caractérisé en ce que les particules déformables creuses sont des microsphères de taille moyenne allant de 10 μm à 60 μm.15. Gel according to any one of claims 11 to 14, characterized in that the hollow deformable particles are microspheres of average size ranging from 10 μm to 60 μm.
16. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la phase pulvérulente comprend en outre une charge choisie parmi le talc, le mica, la silice, le kaolin, les poudres de Nylon, de polyéthylène, le Téflon, la lauroyl-lysine, l'amidon, le nitrure de bore, l'oxychlorure de bismuth, les poudres de polymères de tétrafluoroéthylène, les poudres de polyméthylméthacrylate, les poudres de polyuréthanne, les poudres de polystyrène, les poudres de polyester, les microsphères creuses synthétiques, les microbilles de résine de silicone non déformables, les oxydes de zinc et de titane, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cérium, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l'hydrocarbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite, les microsphères de silice creuses, les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique, les savons métalliques dérivés d'acides organiques carboxyliques ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, comme le stéarate de zinc, de magnésium ou de lithium, le laurate de zinc, le myristate de magnésium, les composés SiO2/Ti02/ Si02, TiO2/CeO2/SiO2, ou encore TiO2/ZnO/Talc, les polymères de polyéthylène terephtalate/polyméthacrylate en forme de paillettes.16. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pulverulent phase also comprises a filler chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon, polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, polymethylmethacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres , non-deformable silicone resin microbeads, zinc and titanium oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbon, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres , glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms carbon, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, SiO 2 / Ti0 2 / Si0 2 , TiO 2 / CeO 2 / SiO 2 , or TiO 2 / ZnO / Talc, polymers of polyethylene terephthalate / polymethacrylate in the form of flakes.
17. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la phase pulvérulente comprend en outre un pigment choisi parmi les dioxydes de titane, de zirconium ou de cérium, les oxydes de zinc, de fer ou de chrome, les nanotitanes, le bleu ferrique, le noir de carbone, les sels de calcium, de baryum, d'aluminium ou de zirconium, de colorants acides tels que les colorants halogéno-acides, azoïques ou anthraquinoniques, les pigments enrobés par des composés silicones tels que des polydiméthylsiloxanes et/ou par des polymères, notamment des polyéthylènes, ou encore par des composés fluorés, et/ou leurs mélanges.17. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pulverulent phase further comprises a pigment chosen from titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, zinc, iron or chromium oxides, nanotitanes , ferric blue, carbon black, calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, acid dyes such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes, pigments coated with silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes, or also with fluorinated compounds, and / or mixtures thereof.
18. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la phase pulvérulente comprend en outre une nacre choisie parmi la nacre naturelle, le mica recouvert d'oxyde de titane, d'oxyde de fer, de pigment naturel ou d'oxychiorure de bismuth ainsi que le mica titane coloré.18. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pulverulent phase further comprises a mother-of-pearl chosen from natural mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or d bismuth oxychioride as well as colored titanium mica.
19. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications 17 ou 18, caractérisé en ce que la phase pulvérulente comprend de 0,1 à 40%, de préférence encore de 0,1 à 20% en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel, de pigments et/ou nacres.19. Gel according to any one of claims 17 or 18, characterized in that the pulverulent phase comprises from 0.1 to 40%, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel , pigments and / or nacres.
20. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre un sel.20. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a salt.
21. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que le sel est choisi parmi le nitrate de calcium, de magnésium ou de strontium, le borate de calcium ou de magnésium, le chlorure de calcium, de sodium, de magnésium, de strontium, de néodyme ou de manganèse, le sulfate de magnésium ou de calcium, l'acétate de calcium ou de magnésium, et leurs mélanges.21. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the salt is chosen from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium, sodium, magnesium, strontium chloride, neodymium or manganese, magnesium or calcium sulfate, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof.
22. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que le sel est le chlorure de magnésium.22. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the salt is magnesium chloride.
23. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre un milieu cosmétiquement ou physiologiquement acceptable.23. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium.
24. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre un colorant hydrosoluble. 24. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a water-soluble dye.
25. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre un solvant choisi parmi l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, le diéthylène glycol, les éthers de glycol, et leurs mélanges.25. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a solvent chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
26. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en qu'il comprend en outre un composé complémentaire choisi parmi les antioxydants, les huiles essentielles, les conservateurs, les actifs cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques lipophiles ou hydrophiles, les hydratants, les vitamines, les acides gras essentiels, les sphingolipides, les composés auto-bronzants, les filtres solaires, les parfums, et leurs mélanges.26. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a complementary compound chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, lipophilic or hydrophilic cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds, sunscreens, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
27. Composition solide à phase continue aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un gel tel que défini à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 26.27. Solid composition with aqueous continuous phase, characterized in that it comprises a gel as defined in any one of claims 1 to 26.
28. Produit de maquillage de la peau ou des fibres kératiniques, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend un gel tel que défini à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 26 et/ou une composition telle que définie à la revendication 27.28. Makeup product for the skin or keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises a gel as defined in any one of claims 1 to 26 and / or a composition as defined in claim 27.
29. Produit selon la revendication 28, caractérisé en ce qu'il constitue un produit de maquillage du corps, un fond de teint, une ombre à paupières, un fards à joues, un anti-cernes, un rouge à lèvres, un crayon du contour des lèvres, un mascara, un crayon du contour des yeux, un stick pour la teinture ou le maquillage de mèches de cheveux.29. Product according to claim 28, characterized in that it constitutes a product for making up the body, a foundation, an eye shadow, a blush, a concealer, a lipstick, a pencil. lip contour, a mascara, an eye contour pencil, a stick for dyeing or making up locks of hair.
30. Procédé de maquillage de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques, consistant à appliquer sur la peau et/ou les fibres kératiniques, un gel tel que défini à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 26 et/ou une composition telle que définie à la revendication 27 et/ou un produit tel que défini à l'une quelconque des revendications 28 ou 29. 30. A method of making up the skin and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the skin and / or the keratin fibers, a gel as defined in any one of claims 1 to 26 and / or a composition such as defined in claim 27 and / or a product as defined in any one of claims 28 or 29.
EP00942174A 1999-06-18 2000-06-09 Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and particular fillers Withdrawn EP1104283A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9907765 1999-06-18
FR9907765A FR2794999B1 (en) 1999-06-18 1999-06-18 SOLID AQUEOUS GEL COMPRISING A HYDROPHILIC GELLIFIER AND SPECIAL FILLERS, COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING SAME, USES
PCT/FR2000/001616 WO2000078279A1 (en) 1999-06-18 2000-06-09 Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and particular fillers

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KR (1) KR20010072738A (en)
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BR (1) BR0006830A (en)
CA (1) CA2340031A1 (en)
FR (1) FR2794999B1 (en)
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FR2800611B1 (en) 1999-11-08 2002-10-11 Oreal COMPOSITION FOR TOPICAL APPLICATION CONTAINING SUGAR, AND ITS COSMETIC USES
JP3596533B2 (en) * 2002-03-14 2004-12-02 富士ゼロックス株式会社 Solid powder cosmetics
KR100509788B1 (en) * 2002-11-14 2005-08-24 주식회사 나우코스 Cosmetic Composition for body massage
MX267068B (en) 2003-03-24 2009-05-29 Ciba Sc Holding Ag Symmetrical triazine derivatives.
KR100655112B1 (en) 2004-11-30 2006-12-08 방계룡 Jellied for a pack
KR101223652B1 (en) * 2010-10-07 2013-01-17 주식회사 한국비엔씨 Apparatus and method of making particles of hyaluronic acid detivatieves
JP7221010B2 (en) * 2018-08-10 2023-02-13 株式会社 資生堂 Gel particles and external preparations for skin containing the same
FR3091164B1 (en) * 2018-12-31 2021-12-10 Lvmh Rech Solid cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids in dispersion in a solid aqueous continuous phase
FR3091172B1 (en) 2018-12-31 2021-12-10 Lvmh Rech Solid cosmetic composition consisting of a solid aqueous continuous phase

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FR2700952B1 (en) * 1993-01-29 1995-03-17 Oreal New cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions in the form of aqueous gels modified by the addition of expanded microspheres.
GB9410092D0 (en) * 1994-05-19 1994-07-06 Kelco Int Ltd Emulsion, method and use
FR2722116B1 (en) * 1994-07-11 1996-08-23 Oreal OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION WITHOUT SURFACTANT, STABILIZED BY HOLLOW THERMOPLASTIC PARTICLES
FR2740678B1 (en) * 1995-11-06 1999-05-14 Oreal USE IN COSMETICS OF A SOLID COMPOSITION HAVING A GELIFIED MATRIX AND COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITIONS IMPLEMENTED
IT1284438B1 (en) * 1996-04-23 1998-05-21 Intercos Italiana COMPACT SOLID GEL CONTAINING WATER

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MXPA01001685A (en) 2002-04-08
FR2794999B1 (en) 2001-07-13
FR2794999A1 (en) 2000-12-22
BR0006830A (en) 2001-08-07
KR20010072738A (en) 2001-07-31

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