FR2961095A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, useful for treatment of skin disorders associated with Propionibacterium acnes and/or Propionibacterium granulosum, e.g. acne and seborrheic dermatitis, comprise alkoxy tryptamine - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprises in a medium, at least one 6-alkoxy tryptamine (I) or its organic or inorganic salts. Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprises in a medium, at least one 6-alkoxy tryptamine of formula (I) or its organic or inorganic salts. R : phenyl or 1-5C linear alkyl or 3-5C branched alkyl, optionally substituted by phenyl. [Image] ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Antiseborrheic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic and / or dermatological care of aesthetic and / or dermatological disorders associated with the microorganisms Propionibacterium acnes and / or Propionibacterium granulosum.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one 6-alkoxy tryptamine compound of formula (I) according to the invention.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method of care and / or cleaning of the skin, comprising the topical application to said skin, of such a composition.

Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) and Propionibacterium granulosum (P. granulosum) are microorganisms responsible for many dermatological or aesthetic disorders. These micro-organisms develop more particularly in the subjects with oily skin. P. acnes is particularly responsible for seborrheic dermatitis and acne, including juvenile acne that affects more adolescents. P. granulosum is also involved in skin disorders related to acne.

Oily or hyperseborrhoeic skin is characterized by shiny skin, sometimes oily in appearance, thick, with enlarged pilosebaceous pores. Sebaceous hypersecretion is most often linked to hyperandrogenism due either to an androgen hyperproduction by an endocrine gland, or to peripheral hyperproduction of the sebaceous gland from surrounding androgens and / or proandrogens.

This sebaceous hypersecretion, combined with an accumulation of epithelial cells resulting from an abnormal cell multiplication, can lead to an obstruction of the sebaceous follicles, localized especially on the face, which can evolve into comedones. Thus, microorganisms, and in particular Propionibacterium acnes, proliferate in this environment rich in sebum and follicular cells and can lead locally to inflammation.

Fatty skin with an acne tendency therefore generally has skin imperfections, dilated pores, an inhomogeneous texture of the skin and redness. Treatment or care of this type of skin generally involves topical application to the skin of the skin. a mixture of compounds making it possible to act on the various causes of these skin disorders and in particular to control the production of sebum (retinoids, zinc salts, cinnamon, ulmar or laminar extracts) and / or to promote desquamation (alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids) and / or to limit microbial growth (iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, triclosan, octoxyglycerine, octanoylglycine).

But there is still the need to have active and cosmetic or dermatological compositions to avoid or reduce aesthetic disorders (cosmetic) and dermatological skin disorders associated with the development of germs responsible for imperfections cutaneous and acne, especially P. acnes and P. granulosum.

It is in this context that the applicant proposes to use the 6-alkoxy tryptamine compounds of formula (I) in compositions, said compositions being intended to treat or clean acne skin, especially oily skin with acne tendency.

The Applicant has in fact surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that a composition comprising at least one 6-alkoxy tryptamine compound of formula (I) has an activity on the decrease or inhibition of germs involved in the development of the acne and associated aesthetic disorders, including Propionibacterium acnes.

This discovery is the basis of the invention.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one 6-alkoxy tryptamine compound of formula (I) as well as their organic or inorganic salts.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a composition according to the invention for the preventive and / or curative treatment of cutaneous disorders related to Propionibacterium acnes and / or Propionibacterium granulosum.

The skin disorders associated with Propionibacterium acnes and / or Propionibacterium granulosum are advantageously chosen from acne, in particular juvenile acne, seborrheic dermatitis, rosacea, redness, pimples, papules, pustules, nodules, microcysts, and cysts.

Most preferably, the skin disorder associated with Propionibacterium acnes is acne.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic, non-therapeutic, care and / or cleansing method for the skin, comprising the topical application to said skin of a composition according to the present invention.

According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic process according to the present invention is intended for the care and / or cleaning of oily skin.

More particularly, the cosmetic process according to the present invention is intended to reduce and / or eliminate skin imperfections, aesthetic, related to Propionibacterium acnes and / or Propionibacterium granulosum.

Advantageously, these cutaneous imperfections of aesthetic order are chosen from an irregular relief, dilated pores, blackheads and / or blackheads, and in particular comedones.

6-Alkoxytryptamine compounds The 6-alkoxytryptamine compounds according to the invention correspond to the following formula (I): RO (I) in which R denotes a phenyl group or a linear C 1 -C 5 or branched C 3 -C 5 alkyl radical; optionally substituted by a phenyl group, as well as their organic or inorganic salts.

The C 1 -C 5 alkyl radicals can be chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl and n-butyl groups. Preferably, the alkyl radicals are in Cl-05 are selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, and n-butyl. Among the alkyl radicals substituted by a phenyl, there will be mentioned more particularly benzyl. The compounds of formula (I) can also be in the form of salts The salts of the compounds of formula (I) of the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, carbonic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphoric acid. 'boric acid. Mention may also be made of organic acid salts, which may comprise one or more carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid or phosphonic acid groups. It may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may furthermore comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. Examples of compounds of formula (I) that may be mentioned more particularly are the following compounds and their corresponding acid salts: Compound R Name CAS No. 1 Methyl 6-Methoxy Tryptamine 3610-36-4 2 Isopropyl 6-iPropoxy Tryptamine 131762-50-0 3 Phenyl 6-Phenoxy Tryptamine 128202-72-2 4 n-Butyl 6-n-Butoxy Tryptamine 108236-41-5 Ethyl 6-Ethoxy Tryptamine 105338-77-0 6 Benzyl 6-Benzyloxy Tryptamine 31677-74- According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the compound 6-methoxytryptamine (compound 1) will be used. This compound is available under the reference M7384 from SIGMA-ALDRICH®. Compound 6 is available as 32648b from APIN Chemicals.

The compounds of formula (I) are known per se. They can be prepared easily by those skilled in the art on the basis of the synthesis methods described in particular in the documents FR1238756 and WO2002078693.

The 6-alkoxy-4-tryptamine compound (s) of formula (I) according to the invention are advantageously present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0 to 10% by weight. , 5% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional active ingredients for the care of healthy skins: The composition according to the invention will advantageously comprise at least one additional active ingredient for the care of oily skin.

By the term "additional active ingredient for the care of oily skin" is meant, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent to activate it, a biological activity which may be in particular: an desquamating activity (which allows the opening of comedones), and / or an antimicrobial activity (especially on P. acnes), and or a soothing or anti-inflammatory activity, and / or a sebo-regulatory activity, and / or an antioxidant activity (which prevents the oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones), and / or a healing activity, and / or astringent activity.

According to a most preferred embodiment, the additional active ingredient for the care of oily skin is different from the 6-alkoxy-4-tryptamine compound according to the invention.

The additional active ingredient for the care of oily skin which can be used in the compositions of the invention is preferably chosen from desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebumregulating agents, antioxidants, cicatrizing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof.

The additional asset for the care of oily skin used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As examples of compounds, for each class, mention may be made in particular of: sebo-requiter or anti-seborrhoeic agents. By "sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents" is meant in particular agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.

These include: retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride, sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; The mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum extract marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol® A5; other zinc salts, in addition to zinc salicylate, such as zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc cysteate ; other copper salts, in addition to copper pidolate, such as copper sulphate or copper pyrrolidone carboxylate; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by the company MARUZEN; - Meadowwort extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine® by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine® by Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis); and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia) such as that sold under the name Sebustop® by the company Solabia; linseed extract, such as that sold under the name Linumine® by the company Lucas Meyer; Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos; mixtures of argan oil, of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and of sesame seed extract, such as that sold under the name Regu SEB® by the company Pentapharm; mixtures of extracts of willowweed, terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys® by the company green tech; extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed; extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the names Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International, or those sold by the company Euromed; mixtures of extracts of plantain, berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear® by the company Rahn; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl® by Serobiological Laboratories; the lactic protein filtrates, such as that sold under the name Normaseb® by the company Sederma; algae laminaria extracts, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane® by the company Biotechmarine; cane sugar extracts, such as the product sold under the name Policasonol® by Sabinsa; oligosaccharides of algae laminaria digitata such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif; sulphonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by the company Ichthyol; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glucomannans extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulphonate chains, such as the one sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical; extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland; extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by the company Alban Muller; extracts of quillaja saponaria, such as the product sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol® BG by the company Vincience; specific PPAR-y activators, such as those described in application WO 2005/053632; extracts of plants of the genus Silybum; sapogenins or plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of Dioscorea rich in diosgenin; and Eugenia caryophyllata extracts containing eugenol and eugenyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

Anti-microbial agents By "anti-microbial agents" are meant agents having effects on the specific flora of oily skin, such as, for example, P. acnes. These effects can be either bactericidal or bacterial anti-adhesion (prevents and / or reduces the adhesion of microorganisms on the skin) or acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their multiplication.

Mention may in particular be made of the active agents and preservatives with antimicrobial activity mentioned in application DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference.

We can also mention: a hop cone extract (HOP CO2-TO extract from Flavex), a Millepertius extract (ST John's Wort CO2-TO Flavex extract), Asian acid, extracts of scutellaria baicolensis roots as in Naturogin BMB-CF, piroctone olamine, citrollic acid, sperillic acid, ethylhexylglycerine (Sensiva De Shulke), caprylate / gluceryl caprate (ABITEC Capmul), calcium sodium phosphosilicate as Bioactive Schott's glasspowder, Schott's Actysse first BG, Ciba's silicon oxides, Metashines (silver derivatives), Bearberry extracts like Gattefossé's Gatuline equalizing, 10-hydroxy-2 decanoic acid as well as Vincient Acnacidol P, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl P tolylsulfone or Angus Flowable Amicale, Malachite from Maprecos, Zincare from Elementis GMBH, arlatone dioic from Unichema ; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, the acid arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox or piroctone olamine, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine (Lipacid C8GO from Seppic), capr ylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, zinc derivatives and in particular zinc pidolate (Zincidone® from Solabia), copper derivatives salicylic acid and other salicylic acid derivatives, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; Seppic Sepicontrol, an argan extract such as Argapure LS97100, Sederma Sebosoft®, quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, ethanol, and mixtures thereof.

As agents that prevent and / or reduce the adhesion of microorganisms, mention may be made in particular of: phytanetriol and its derivatives as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil , calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or other fatty substances such as cocoamphodiacetate disodium, cocoate of oxyethylenated glyceryl (70E), Poloxamers, hexadecenylsuccinate 18, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, C12-C13 di-alcohol tartrate branched derivatives described in EP 1 129 694.

In particular with respect to the propagation of P acnes, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, Celvol 540 PV alcohol (Polyvinyl alcohol), Akorex L from Karlshamns, fructose derivatives.

Mention may also be made of certain surfactants having an antimicrobial effect such as cocoampho sodium acetate or diacetate disodium such as Miranol C2M CONC NP, betaines such as cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl ether sulfate such as Emal 270 D Kao, decyl glucoside such as Plantacare 2000 UP, C12-13 dialkyl malate branched as Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters such as monolaurate, monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprate, sodium lauroyl oat amino acid such as Proteol OAT , lauryl dimethylamine betaine such as Empigen BB / LS as well as quaternary polyammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in the L'OREAL patent FR 0 108 283.

Preferred antimicrobial agents used in the compositions of the invention are an agent chosen from caprylyl glycol, zinc derivatives including zinc pidolate (Zincidone® from Solabia), copper derivatives, octoglycerine or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

"Desquamating agent" means any compound capable of acting: - either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as 3-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including the acid n-octanoyl 5-salicylic); ahydroxyacids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives: either on the enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

Other desquamating agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention include oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid, glycerol trilactate, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, the silicon derivatives of salicylate as in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucase as in patent EP 0 218 200, salts 5-acyl salicylic acid, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in patent EP 0 899 330, jasmonic acid and derivatives as in patent applications EP 1 333 022 and EP 1 333 021, Exfolactive® de Silab (ficus opuntia indica flower extract), Soypon O® from Kawaken fine chemicals (sodium cocoyl sarcosinate).

Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, it will be used in the compositions of the invention a desquamating agent chosen from n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid; urea; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; Nacetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Soothing or anti-irritant agents Mention may in particular be made of the soothing or anti-irritant agents cited in the applications WO2004 / 105736 and DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference. As particular soothing agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, C, B5, B3, dextran sulphate, caffeine and its derivatives, pentacyclic triterpenes and the extracts of plants containing them, b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) and the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, the phycosshacharides of Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol, vitamin E and C diesterphosphoric acid, such as Seppic's Sepivital EPC®, chamomile extract, allantoin, unsaturated omega 3 oils such as musk rose, blackcurrant, ecchium, fish, calophilum oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, Seppicm Seppicalm VG® (nymphea alba and sodium palmitoylproline), an extract of Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami, an extract of Helianthus annus, in particular Silab's Helioxin, an extract of Linum usitatissimum such as Silab's Sensilin, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, piperonal, a nail extract clove, an extract of Epilobium angustifolium, aloe vera, an extract of Bacopa moniera, phytosterols, blueberry water, rose water, dextran as in Modulene® de Vincience, a mint extract, especially mint leaves like the Calmiskin® from Silab, anise derivatives, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204, a pink extract such as Herbasol rose extract, Stimutex AS from Pentapharm, alkaline earth salts in particular strontium, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

As preferred soothing agents, use will be made of an agent chosen from a rose extract, a clove extract, dextran as in Vincience's Modulene®, a mint extract such as Silab's Calmiskin®, a mixture of an extract of nymphea alba and sodium palmitoylproline such as Seppic Seppicalm VG®, anise derivatives, Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora extract, and mixtures thereof.

Anti-Inflammatory Agents The anti-inflammatory agents mentioned in the applications WO2004 / 105736 and DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by way of reference, may be mentioned in particular.

Particular antiinflammatory agents that can be used according to the invention include cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azealic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate and mixtures thereof.

As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, mention will be made of azelaic acid.

Antioxidant agents This term is used to define agents with antioxidant activity (which prevent the oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones).

There may be mentioned in particular tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; BHT and BHA. There may also be mentioned polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its derivatives, Pycnogenol , ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, biotin, chelants, idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital, antiradicals such as vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione.

Healing Ages As examples of healing agents, there may be mentioned in particular: allantoin, urea, wheat germ oil, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (eg Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast extract such as the LS 7225B healer LS (Cognis), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract or Biodynes TRF from Arch Chemical, extracts oatmeal, chitosan and derivatives, carrot extracts, Vincenzo artemia or GP4G extract, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, extracts of honey or propolis, ximeninic acid and its salts such as Acinoxximininico de Indena, Rosa rugosa oil, Alban Muller's Souci Ami Liposolible, horsetail extracts, Cosmetochem's herbal lemon, Helichryse extracts, Betaglucan and derivatives, Butter shea and its purified fractions, modified exopolysaccharides and Polyaminosac alkylsulfided chars. Preferred healing agents according to the invention are tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, honey extracts, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, and mixtures thereof.

Astringent agents By "astringent agents" is meant according to the invention agents for controlling the dilation of the sebaceous follicles.

As astringent agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of Laricyl LS88650 from Cognis, Phytofirm LS91200 from Cognis, Tanlex VE / VB® from Ichimaru Pharcos, laponite, aluminum salts, Centella extracts. (ex Plantactiv Centella de Cognis), Degussa's Varisoft 432 CG®, extracts of brown turkey, extracts of mauve, Hammamelis, Almondermin LS 3380® from Cognis, extracts of burdock, Extrapone 9 specia0l of Symrise, scutellaria extracts, Ulmaire extracts (ex Cytobiol Ulmaire de Libiol), Bell flavors & fragrances' B1348® Herb extract, extracts of acacia, elm, white willow, cinnamon, birch, meadowsweet, panama sapogenins, interchemical zinc phenolsulfonate, gentian, cucumber, walnut extracts, the Alban Muller Epilami mixture.

Preferred astringent agents according to the invention are scutellaria extract, ulmary extract, close-up queen extract, gentian extract, burdock extract and mixtures thereof. Composition

The composition according to the present invention can be cosmetic or dermatological. Within the meaning of the present invention, a cosmetic composition refers to a composition that is capable of producing an effect on the skin in terms of aesthetics and comfort, or for beauty purposes, for example with a view to protecting it, maintaining it in good condition, to change the appearance, including embellish.

The composition may be a skin care and / or cleansing composition. The compositions according to the invention are advantageously intended for topical application on the face and / or the body (in particular shoulders, neck).

The compositions according to the invention may be rinsed or not rinsed. By "non-rinsed" is meant any composition applied directly to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, which does not need to be subsequently removed by rinsing with water, an aqueous solution comprising surfactants or any other base cleaning of keratin materials. By "human keratin materials" is meant the skin (body, face, eye area), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips, mucous membranes.

The composition according to the invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes, the tissues and the hair. The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH preferably close to that of the skin, between 4 and 7.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil ( E / H) or multiple (triple: W / H / E or H / E / H), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules being lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention can be in the form of emulsions.

In addition, the composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foaming gel, a treatment, a tonic or a mousse. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and / or hydrophilic solvents such as polyols. The amount of water in the composition may range, for example, from 0.5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 40 to 75% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention advantageously contain at least one liquid fatty phase.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant industries.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples US-A-5,811,487, in particular the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004, and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin Etsu.

For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, water, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, basic agents, acids.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and represent, for example, from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles. As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, in addition to the pigments, silica powder; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures.

As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned in particular carbopol, luvigel, Hostacerin AMPS, Simulgel, Sepigel, xanthan, guar, cellulose gums, alginates and mixtures thereof. We can also mention hectorites.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional ingredients and / or additional active ingredients, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the essential oil according to the invention are not, or substantially not, impaired by the addition envisaged.

The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to occlusive or non-occlusive type cosmetic supports intended to be applied in a localized manner to the skin. As examples of non-limiting cosmetic media, there may be mentioned a patch, a wipe, a roll-on and a pen. The support can be an 'occlusive' support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes. , or a complex of such materials. These materials may also be present in laminated form with at least one sheet of metal such as aluminum foil. The support layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is from about 20 μm to about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user, a feeling of discomfort. Preferably, however, the carrier is "non-occlusive". In the latter case, it is advantageous to use a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric or a perforated nonwoven fabric.

The examples which follow illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). The amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples

Example 1 Study of the Effect of the 6-Methoxy Tryptamine Compound (Compound 1) on the Inhibition of the Propionibacterium acnes and Propionibacterium granulosum Probes Principle of the Test: This test is intended to quantitatively determine the activity of a composition comprising a compound according to the invention (compound 1) with respect to P. acnes and P. granulosum microorganisms involved in the phenomena related to oily skin (skin imperfections) and the development of acne, these micro -organisms being put in optimal conditions of growth.

Protocol: Ingredients Composition (A) (wt.%) Citric Acid 0.30 0/0 The composition (A) was prepared in the following gel form: 0/0 Sodium hydroxide 0.35 0/0 6-Methoxy Tryptamine (Compound 1) 1.00 0/0 Polyethylene glycol (8 0E) 6.00 0/0 Acrylates / C 10 -C 30 Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.90 0/0 Water qs 10025 It was evaluated at 2, 6, and 24 hours. effectiveness of this composition (bactericidal effect) vis-à-vis the Propionibacterium acnes and Propionibacterium granulosum compared to a growth control (in the trypocasein soy culture medium).

For the preparation of the starting inoculum, five days before the start of the test, subculturing of the bacterial strains on tryptocasein soy medium (each strain being treated in a separate test) was practiced. It was incubated for 5 days at 35 ° C. On the day of the test, the slope was washed with about 9 ml of diluent. The suspension obtained has a titre of 108 germs / ml (a count has been made). 4 ml of inoculum was introduced into the pillbox, which corresponds to a level of 10 bacteria per gram of preparation. The pill pillar was placed in an incubator / shaker (35 ° C - 200 RPM).

The day before the test, in a pillbox, 32 g of Tryptocasein soy broth (culture medium) were placed and incubated at 35 ° C.

On the day of the test, 4 g of the composition (A) was added and the mixture was homogenized by vortexing. A growth control (Tryptocasein soya) was prepared under the same conditions to verify that the seeds are in favorable growth conditions throughout the test.

After each contact time (2, 6 and 24 hours), the contents of the Vortex pillbox were homogenized. Decimal dilutions were performed. Surface agar plates were plated (Eugon LT 100 medium). Petri dishes were incubated for 6 to 7 days in an oven at 35 ° C. Colony counts were performed on dishes containing more than 20 and fewer than 200 colonies.

Results The results obtained are shown in Tables 1 (composition (A)) and 2 (growth control) below.

These results are expressed in CFU / g of preparation (CFU: Colony Forming Unit). Correspondence in log is also indicated. Table 1 CFU / g of preparation (A) Inoculum of 2 6 24 Germ tested at the start of hours hours hours CFU / g of preparation Propionibacterium acnes 1,4 10 '9.7 106 8.0 106 2.3 106 (7.15 log) (6.99 log) (6.90 log) (6.36 log) Propionibacterium granulosum 1.1 10 '6.9 106 2.8 106 <20 (7.04 log) (6.84 log) (6.45 log) 1.3 log) Table 2 CFU / g (Control) Inoculum of 2 6 24 Germ tested at the start of hours hours hours CFU / g of preparation Propionibacterium acnes 1.4 10 '1.6 10' 1.0 10 '1.7 10' ( 7.15 log) (7.2 log) (7 log) (7.2 log) Propionibacterium granulosum 1.1 10 '9.8 106 1.2 10' 5.8 106 (7.04 log) (7 log) (7 log) ) (6.7 log) It therefore appears from Table 1 above, that after having inoculated 1.4 10 CFU per gram of Propionibacterium acnes formula or alternatively 1.1 10 CFU per gram of Propionibacterium granulosum formula. in the composition comprising 1% of compound 1 according to the invention, it was observed an inhibition of the populations P. acnes and P. granulosum.

It was thus shown (after 24 hours of contact) a reduction of 5.4 log of the population of P. granulosum as well as a reduction of 0.84 log of the P. acnes population.

The 6-alkoxy tryptamine compounds can therefore be used in a composition 15 thus making it possible to inhibit the growth of P. acnes and / or P. granulosum, useful for the treatment of acne and the care of oily skin, such as that the plaintiff proposes. 10

Claims (11)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one 6-alkoxy tryptamine compound of the following formula (I): wherein R denotes a phenyl group or a linear C1-C5 alkyl radical, or branched C3-05, optionally substituted with a phenyl group, and their organic or inorganic salts. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the 6-alkoxy tryptamine compound of formula (I) is chosen from the following compounds: 6-methoxytryptamine, 6-isopropoxytryptamine, 6-phenoxytryptamine, 6-n- butoxy tryptamine, 6-ethoxy tryptamine, 6-benzyloxy tryptamine and their corresponding acid salts. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the 6-alkoxy tryptamine compound of formula (I) is the 6-methoxy tryptamine compound. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the 6-alkoxy tryptamine compound (s) of formula (I) are present in said composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight. preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an additional asset for the care of oily skin selected from desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebum-regulating agents, antioxidants, healing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the preventive and / or curative treatment of cutaneous disorders related to Propionibacterium acnes and / or Propionibacterium granulosum. 7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the skin disorders associated with Propionibacterium acnes and / or Propionibacterium granulosum are selected from acne, seborrheic dermatitis, rosacea, redness, pimples, papules, pustules, nodules, microcysts, and cysts. 8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the skin disorder associated with Propionibacterium acnes is acne. 9. A cosmetic process for the care and / or cleaning of the skin, in particular of oily skin, comprising the topical application to said skin of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 5. 10. Cosmetic process according to claim 9, characterized in that it is intended to reduce and / or eliminate skin imperfections related to Propionibacterium acnes and / or Propionibacterium granulosum, in particular chosen from an irregular relief, dilated pores, comedones and / or black dots. 11. Cosmetic process according to claim 10, characterized in that it is intended to reduce and / or eliminate comedones.