EP2273965A1 - Composition for the treatment of seborrhoeic conditions - Google Patents

Composition for the treatment of seborrhoeic conditions

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Publication number
EP2273965A1
EP2273965A1 EP09746020A EP09746020A EP2273965A1 EP 2273965 A1 EP2273965 A1 EP 2273965A1 EP 09746020 A EP09746020 A EP 09746020A EP 09746020 A EP09746020 A EP 09746020A EP 2273965 A1 EP2273965 A1 EP 2273965A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
composition according
oxygen
protease
acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP09746020A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jean-Claude Allart
Jean-Marie Lefevre
Jacques Peyrot
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Laboratoire D'Evolution Dermatologique
Original Assignee
Laboratoire D'Evolution Dermatologique
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Laboratoire D'Evolution Dermatologique filed Critical Laboratoire D'Evolution Dermatologique
Publication of EP2273965A1 publication Critical patent/EP2273965A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212—Face masks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66—Enzymes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/08—Antiseborrheics
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/56—Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a novel composition that can be used in cosmetics and dermatology, and more particularly a novel composition that can be used as a mask for skin care, in particular for treating the effects of seborrhea on the face.
  • the skin constitutes both a living anatomical barrier and a zone of exchange between the body and its environment, the effectiveness of which determines the maintenance of a good homeostatic balance. It comprises several integrated layers, namely a superficial layer constituted by the epidermis, and deeper layers forming the dermis and hypodermis, and each of these layers has specific properties allowing the whole to react and to adapt to the conditions of its environment.
  • the epidermis whose thickness varies according to the different parts of the body, is mainly composed of keratinocytes (85 to 90% of the epidermal cells), melanocytes (2 to 3% of the epidermal cells) and Langerhans cells.
  • the dermis is thicker and consists mainly of collagen, elastin and proteoglycans. These three types of molecules are synthesized by dermal fibroblasts. Collagen fibers provide the mechanical strength and texture of the skin, elastin is responsible for elasticity, and proteoglycans play a major role in the structure and hydration of the skin. Other cells such as macrophages and leucocytes are also present in the dermis layer.
  • the hypodermis is the deepest layer of skin, and contains lipid-producing adipocytes so that the subcutaneous tissue can make a fat layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.
  • Oxygenation of the surface layers of the skin is usually provided by the oxygen of the outside air while that of the deeper layers is provided by the blood.
  • the sebaceous gland plays an important role in cutaneous homeostasis.
  • the sebaceous gland is part of a larger, more complex system, the pilosebaceous unit that includes the hair follicle, the excretory duct, and the gland itself. This unit reaches its full development in the post-pubertal period under the influence of adrenal and gonadal hormonal secretions.
  • the sebaceous gland is responsible for the holocrine secretion of sebum, consisting mainly of waxes, triglycerides and squalene which is a cholesterol precursor fatty acid.
  • sebum Due to its composition, sebum can be considered as an oil in the physicochemical sense, which is involved in the organization of lipids in the stratum corneum and therefore participates in the barrier effect by forming a lipid film on the skin, reinforcing the protection of the stratum corneum.
  • the waxes improve the impermeability of the skin surface, while the squalenes help protect against UV rays.
  • seborrhea which gives the skin a greasy, shiny appearance, with dilated pores, and which can lead to complications with the onset of seborrheic dermatitis. , or acne by comedo formation and bacterial overgrowth.
  • EP 771557 proposes compositions based on ascorbic acid which possesses not only antioxidant but also antiseborrheic properties.
  • Patent FR 2857266 discloses a composition for fluidifying sebum to prevent the occurrence of seborrheic dermatitis, containing a lipophilic antioxidant such as an alkyl gallate or a flavonoid derived from Ginkgo biloba. It is also known that it is possible to combat the unpleasant effects of seborrhea by introducing into cosmetic compositions powders intended to matify the skin and absorb excess sebum, such as talc, silica or a derivative, by example of kaolin.
  • compositions for the treatment of acne containing a peroxide, such as benzoyl peroxide, as in US patent application 2005019422 where the peroxide is associated with an acid in a stabilized formulation avoiding interaction of the acid. on the peroxide, and in the patent application WO 2008017914 wherein the peroxide is adsorbed on a porous support and associated with an anti-inflammatory and an antibiotic. It has also been proposed to combine benzoyl peroxide and urea to treat excess seborrhea, as in patent application US Pat. No. 2,003,061,084. Patent Application WO 0000/06116 describes a composition comprising an alpha-hydroxy acid, an agent antimicrobial and hydrogen peroxide.
  • a peroxide such as benzoyl peroxide
  • Benzoyl peroxide is commonly used as an antiseptic antibacterial for cleaning the skin.
  • the known compositions of the state of the art may however have some side effects such as dryness of the skin, or not be sufficiently effective, and they have no effect on the oxygenation of the skin which is reduced in the skin. case of oily skin. It is therefore desirable to develop alternative methods and compositions for effectively treating the symptoms of seborrhea, which promote the oxygenation of the epidermis and which are perfectly tolerated by patients.
  • the present invention therefore relates to a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition useful for the treatment of seborrheic conditions, comprising in combination an oxygen carrier capable of releasing oxygen in situ in a controlled manner, and a desquamating agent.
  • the subject of the invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of the effects of seborrhea and seborrhoeic conditions, comprising applying to the skin a composition combining an oxygen carrier capable of releasing oxygen in situ in a controlled manner, and a desquamation agent.
  • the subject of the invention is also the combined use of an oxygen carrier and a desquamating agent for the preparation of a dermatological composition for the treatment of seborrhea and seborrheic conditions, as well as the cosmetic use of an oxygen carrier and a desquamating agent for the preparation of a topical cosmetic composition, for the treatment of the effects of seborrhea and seborrheic conditions.
  • composition according to the invention can be advantageously used in the form of an oxygenating mask which can be applied to the skin for a sufficient period of time, generally from a few minutes to a few tens of minutes, to obtain a reducing effect on the skin. Seborrhea and a lightening of the complexion of the skin. Maintaining the composition on the skin for a period of several minutes allows the gradual release of oxygen from the oxygen carrier and its combined action with that of the desquamating agent.
  • the desquamating agent used in the present invention may be advantageously selected from the agents of natural or synthetic origin exerting a chemical or biological effect, not mechanical, on the skin.
  • the desquamating agent can be selected from alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and the like. malic acid, beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, salts and esters of these acids, urea and urea derivatives, as well as active keratolytic proteases on desquamation.
  • alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and the like.
  • malic acid beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, salts and esters of these acids, urea and urea derivatives, as well as active keratolytic proteases on desquamation.
  • the protease of plant origin may be chosen from, for example, an aspartyl protease from papain extracted from papaya or bromelain extracted from pineapple, and an oligosaccharide-type cysteine protease extracted from prickly pears.
  • a desquamation protease of animal origin for example a serine protease such as trypsin or chymotrypsin, or, preferably, a serine protease of bacterial origin such as subtilisin from Bacillus subtilis. More particularly, the subtilisin sold under the brand Keratoline by Sederma having a mild exfoliating action can be used. This commercially available product contains subtilisin solubilized in a mixture of water, propylene glycol, and glycerin. It is also possible to use the prickly pear extract marketed under the trademark Exfolactive by Silab.
  • the desquamation agent generally represents between 0.1% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the function of the oxygen vector is to supply oxygen directly into the epidermis.
  • Various oxygen carriers are well known in various techniques, for example in tooth whitening compositions. It is possible, for example, to use compositions based on hydrogen peroxide (oxygenated water) releasing oxygen in situ.
  • a particularly advantageous oxygen vector is perfluorodecalin, which has the property of having a perfluorinated bicyclic structure capable of capturing oxygen or peroxide in order to release it in situ when the composition is applied to the skin.
  • a perfluorodecalin such as that commercially available under the tradename Cerasome® including perfluorodecalin, propylene glycol and glycerin may be used.
  • Another oxygen carrier advantageously used in the compositions of the present invention consisting of a polymer matrix loaded with hydrogen peroxide, can be for example a copolymer of allyl methacrylates, hydrogen peroxide and water, marketed under the trademark Polypore 337HP by the company Amcol.
  • the polymer matrix serves as a reservoir containing the stabilized form of peroxide, which is released from the matrix when the composition is applied to the skin, its release possibly being completed by exerting a slight pressure, for example by slightly massaging the coated areas.
  • the charge of hydrogen peroxide in the oxygen carrier used in the invention is generally between 0.04% and 5%, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition, which corresponds to a polymer matrix content of between 0.1 and 15%, preferably between approximately 0.6 and 6%, respectively.
  • the oxygen carrier in particular perfluorodecalin
  • desquamating agent in particular desquamation protease
  • oxygen carrier according to the invention, provides an unexpected effect on the excess seborrheal of oily skin as indicated in more detail below.
  • composition of the invention may also contain an excess sebum absorbing agent, for example a kaolinitic clay rich in mineral salts, which has the advantage of providing a slight additional exfoliating effect when applied to the skin and subject to at a slight pressure, caused for example by a gentle massage.
  • an excess sebum absorbing agent for example a kaolinitic clay rich in mineral salts, which has the advantage of providing a slight additional exfoliating effect when applied to the skin and subject to at a slight pressure, caused for example by a gentle massage.
  • a suitable kaolin is the product sold under the name Marajo Scrub by the company Serobiological Laboratories, which is in the form of a white to gray powder, dispersible in water and oils, with a particle size in the region of 40-50 ⁇ m.
  • Commercial white type SP20 kaolin can also be used.
  • composition of the invention may also advantageously contain a superficial skin peel agent which completes the action of the combination of the oxygen carrier and the desquamating agent.
  • a superficial skin peel agent which completes the action of the combination of the oxygen carrier and the desquamating agent.
  • a scrubbing agent may be, for example, a powder of natural waxes with substantially spherical particles, more particularly compositions based on Carnauba or Jojoba waxes such as those marketed under the Naturebead brand by Micro Powders Inc.
  • compositions of the invention may also contain excipients and carriers such as those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use, and chosen according to the form of administration retained.
  • excipients and carriers such as those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use, and chosen according to the form of administration retained.
  • gelling agents such as those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use, and chosen according to the form of administration retained.
  • emulsifiers such as those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use
  • thickeners such as those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use
  • preservatives such as those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use
  • softeners such as those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use
  • perfumes such as those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use, and chosen according to the form of administration retained.
  • the addition of a gelling agent is advantageous for facilitating the application of the composition to the skin.
  • emulsions may be of the oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O) or water-in-silicone type, for example gels or creams adapted for use in the form of a cosmetic mask.
  • compositions are prepared by well-known conventional techniques, for example by heating the oily and aqueous phases and then mixing them successively.
  • composition of the invention combining an oxygen carrier and a desquamating agent has proved particularly effective in the treatment of seborrheic conditions, in particular of the face, more specifically of the forehead and nose areas, and of the neck.
  • the treatment consists in applying the composition, preferably in the form of a cosmetic mask, to the areas of the skin most affected by seborrhea, for a period of time generally ranging between 1 and 30 minutes, and preferably between 3 and 15 minutes. , if necessary by massaging slightly at the end of application for a few moments to facilitate the total release of oxygen, and then rinsing with water.
  • This treatment can be repeated with a frequency adapted to the state of the patient, a suitable treatment being one to three applications per week.
  • the lightening effect of the complexion of the skin is observed from the first application of the composition of the invention.
  • the mask is in the form of a thick gel whose composition corresponds to Example 2 below.
  • the application was made with the fingers or a spatula in a thick layer, distributing the product over the entire face, avoiding the eye areas
  • the application time was: - 5 minutes for 3 patients
  • the product has a progressive action manifesting itself by a surface whitening and the appearance of a slight release of gas. It does not cause an uncomfortable sensation, but a feeling of freshness during the application.
  • the patient After the exposure time indicated above, the patient performs a light massage and rinsing with lukewarm water. The skin is then dried.
  • the skin is slightly pink and more supple.
  • the tolerance is excellent.
  • Phase A A thick emulsified gel having the weight composition indicated below is prepared.
  • Phase C Hydroxyethyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl
  • Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20®) 2.00
  • Keratoline® is a water / glycerin / propylene glycol / ferment bacillus (subtilisin) mixture, commercially available from Sederma.
  • Polypore 337HP® comprises water, a crosslinked polymer matrix based on allyl methacrylate and water, and is commercially available from Quimdis.
  • the gel is prepared at ambient temperature by mixing the components of phase A with stirring (300 rpm) until a homogeneous phase is obtained.
  • the components of phase B and phase C are then added by increasing the stirring speed (1200 rpm).
  • Phase D and E are then introduced and the stirring is maintained until a homogeneous phase is obtained.
  • the components of phase F are thoroughly mixed and the homogeneous phase obtained is added to the emulsion.
  • the pH is adjusted if necessary to 6.0 - 6.2 by addition of 32% sodium hydroxide.
  • a thick gel of the same composition as that of Example 2 above is prepared, but replacing the kaolin by 0.10 parts of commercially available Regu-seb® whose composition is: Argania spinosa (and) Serena serrulata (and) Sesamum indicum, and adding a gentle scrub agent
  • a cosmetic mask consisting of a thick gel having the composition containing the components of Example 2 (with kaolin) is prepared and Regu-seb® and a scrubbing agent consisting of Rilsan BHV (Nylon 12) are added at exactly the same rate. of 2 parts by weight.
  • a thick emulsified gel having the weight composition indicated below is prepared.
  • Phase F Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20®) 2.00
  • Phase G Cetyl esters (and) Oryza sativa (and) Olea
  • Exfolactive® is an extract of prickly pear flower (INCI name Hydrolyzed Oprentia ficus indica flower extract). The process for preparing the gel is identical to that of Example 2 above.
  • Phase A Water 64.70
  • Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20®) 2.00
  • Phase H Sodium hydroxide 10% q.s. pH 4
  • This gel can be used as a mask, like that of 'Exempl 2.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition. The composition comprises, in combination, a hydrogen peroxide-based oxygen vector which releases oxygen in situ, and a desquamating agent selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, the salts and esters of these acids, urea and urea derivatives, and also proteases with a keratolytic action that are active on desquamation. Use as a mask for the treatment of seborrhoeic conditions.

Description

COMPOSITION POUR LE TRAITEMENT DES ETATS SEBORRHEIQUES COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF SEBORRHEIC STATES
La présente invention concerne une nouvelle composition utilisable en cosmétique et en dermatologie, et plus particulièrement une nouvelle composition utilisable comme masque destiné aux soins de la peau, notamment pour le traitement des effets de la séborrhée sur le visage.The present invention relates to a novel composition that can be used in cosmetics and dermatology, and more particularly a novel composition that can be used as a mask for skin care, in particular for treating the effects of seborrhea on the face.
La peau constitue à la fois une barrière anatomique vivante et une zone d'échange entre le corps et son environnement, dont l'efficacité conditionne le maintien d'un bon équilibre homéostasique . Elle comprend plusieurs couches intégrées, à savoir une couche superficielle constituée par l'épiderme, et des couches plus profondes formant le derme et l'hypoderme, et chacune de ces couches possède des propriétés spécifiques permettant à l'ensemble de réagir et de s'adapter aux conditions de son environnement. L'épiderme, dont l'épaisseur est variable selon les différentes parties du corps, est principalement composé de kératinocytes (85 à 90% des cellules épidermiques) , de mélanocytes (2 à 3% des cellules épidermiques) et des cellules de Langerhans . Le derme, plus épais, se compose principalement de collagène, d'élastine et de protéoglycanes . Ces trois types de molécules sont synthétisés par les fibroblastes dermiques. Les fibres de collagène assurent la résistance mécanique et la texture de la peau, l'élastine est responsable de l'élasticité, et les protéoglycanes jouent un rôle majeur de structure et d'hydratation de la peau. D'autres cellules comme les macrophages et les leucocytes sont également présentes dans la couche du derme. L'hypoderme est la couche la plus profonde de la peau, et contient les adipocytes qui produisent des lipides afin que le tissu sous-cutané puisse fabriquer une couche grasse protégeant les muscles, les os et les organes internes contre les chocs.The skin constitutes both a living anatomical barrier and a zone of exchange between the body and its environment, the effectiveness of which determines the maintenance of a good homeostatic balance. It comprises several integrated layers, namely a superficial layer constituted by the epidermis, and deeper layers forming the dermis and hypodermis, and each of these layers has specific properties allowing the whole to react and to adapt to the conditions of its environment. The epidermis, whose thickness varies according to the different parts of the body, is mainly composed of keratinocytes (85 to 90% of the epidermal cells), melanocytes (2 to 3% of the epidermal cells) and Langerhans cells. The dermis is thicker and consists mainly of collagen, elastin and proteoglycans. These three types of molecules are synthesized by dermal fibroblasts. Collagen fibers provide the mechanical strength and texture of the skin, elastin is responsible for elasticity, and proteoglycans play a major role in the structure and hydration of the skin. Other cells such as macrophages and leucocytes are also present in the dermis layer. The hypodermis is the deepest layer of skin, and contains lipid-producing adipocytes so that the subcutaneous tissue can make a fat layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.
L'oxygénation des couches superficielles de la peau est généralement assurée par l'oxygène de l'air extérieur tandis que celle des couches plus profondes est procurée par le sang.Oxygenation of the surface layers of the skin is usually provided by the oxygen of the outside air while that of the deeper layers is provided by the blood.
B1834WO L'oxygénation contribue au maintien des qualités de la peau, et au contraire une peau grasse est moins bien oxygénée.B1834WO Oxygenation contributes to maintaining the qualities of the skin, and on the contrary, oily skin is less oxygenated.
La glande sébacée joue un rôle important dans l'homéo- stasie cutanée. La glande sébacée est partie intégrante d'un système plus large, plus complexe, l'unité pilosébacée qui comprend le follicule pilaire, le canal d'excrétion et la glande elle-même. Cette unité atteint son plein développement dans la période post-pubertaire sous 1 ' influence des sécrétions hormonales surrénaliennes et gonadiques. La glande sébacée est responsable de la sécrétion holocrine de sébum, composé essentiellement de cires, de triglycérides et de squalène qui est un acide gras précurseur du cholestérol. En raison de sa composition, le sébum peut être considéré comme une huile au sens physicochimique, qui intervient dans l'organisation des lipides au sein de la couche cornée et participe donc à l'effet barrière en formant un film lipidique sur la peau, renforçant la protection du stratum corneum. Les cires améliorent l'imperméabilité de la surface de la peau, tandis que les squalènes participent à la protection contre les rayons UV.The sebaceous gland plays an important role in cutaneous homeostasis. The sebaceous gland is part of a larger, more complex system, the pilosebaceous unit that includes the hair follicle, the excretory duct, and the gland itself. This unit reaches its full development in the post-pubertal period under the influence of adrenal and gonadal hormonal secretions. The sebaceous gland is responsible for the holocrine secretion of sebum, consisting mainly of waxes, triglycerides and squalene which is a cholesterol precursor fatty acid. Due to its composition, sebum can be considered as an oil in the physicochemical sense, which is involved in the organization of lipids in the stratum corneum and therefore participates in the barrier effect by forming a lipid film on the skin, reinforcing the protection of the stratum corneum. The waxes improve the impermeability of the skin surface, while the squalenes help protect against UV rays.
Cependant, l'excès de sécrétion de sébum par les glandes sébacées se traduit par la séborrhée, qui donne à la peau un aspect gras, luisant, avec des pores dilatés, et qui peut entraîner des complications avec l'apparition d'une dermite séborrhéique, ou d'acné par formation de comédon et prolifération bactérienne.However, excess secretion of sebum by the sebaceous glands results in seborrhea, which gives the skin a greasy, shiny appearance, with dilated pores, and which can lead to complications with the onset of seborrheic dermatitis. , or acne by comedo formation and bacterial overgrowth.
Ainsi, les imperfections de la peau, et en particulier les peaux grasses résultant d'un excès de sébum, ou séborrhée, occasionnent des désagréments esthétiques et constituent un problème auquel sont confrontés les adultes et principalement les adolescents, et diverses méthodes et compositions ont été développées pour tenter d'y remédier.Thus, imperfections of the skin, and in particular oily skin resulting from an excess of sebum, or seborrhea, cause aesthetic discomfort and constitute a problem facing adults and mainly adolescents, and various methods and compositions have been developed to try to remedy it.
On a proposé d'utiliser de 1 ' isotrétinoïne qui assèche les follicules sébacés et réduit la sécrétion de sébum, mais s'accompagne d'effets secondaires gênants. Le brevet EP 771557 propose des compositions à base d'acide ascorbique qui possède non seulement des propriétés anti-oxydantes mais aussi antiséborrhéiques. Le brevet FR 2857266 décrit une composition destinée à fluidifier le sébum pour éviter l'apparition de dermites séborrhéiques, contenant un anti-oxydant lipophile tel qu'un gallate d'alkyle ou un flavonoïde dérivé du Ginkgo biloba. On sait aussi que l'on peut lutter contre les effets déplaisants de la séborrhée en introduisant dans des compositions cosmétiques des poudres destinées à matifier la peau et absorber l'excès de sébum, telles que du talc, de la silice ou un dérivé, par exemple du kaolin.It has been proposed to use isotretinoin which dries the sebaceous follicles and reduces the secretion of sebum, but is accompanied by troublesome side effects. EP 771557 proposes compositions based on ascorbic acid which possesses not only antioxidant but also antiseborrheic properties. Patent FR 2857266 discloses a composition for fluidifying sebum to prevent the occurrence of seborrheic dermatitis, containing a lipophilic antioxidant such as an alkyl gallate or a flavonoid derived from Ginkgo biloba. It is also known that it is possible to combat the unpleasant effects of seborrhea by introducing into cosmetic compositions powders intended to matify the skin and absorb excess sebum, such as talc, silica or a derivative, by example of kaolin.
On connaît aussi des compositions pour le traitement de l'acné contenant un peroxyde, tel que le peroxyde de benzoyle, comme dans la demande de brevet US 2005019422 où le peroxyde est associé à un acide dans une formulation stabilisée évitant une interaction de l'acide sur le peroxyde, et dans la demande de brevet WO 2008017914 où le peroxyde est adsorbé sur un support poreux et associé à un anti-inflammatoire et un antibiotique. On a également proposé d'associer le peroxyde de benzoyle et l'urée pour traiter l'excès de séborrhée, comme dans la demande de brevet US 2003064084. La demande de brevet WO 00006116 décrit une composition comprenant un alpha-hydroxy acide, un agent antimicrobien et du peroxyde d'hydrogène. Le peroxyde de benzoyle est couramment utilisé comme antibactérien antiseptique pour le nettoyage de la peau. Les compositions connues de l'état de la technique peuvent cependant présenter quelques effets secondaires tels que des dessèchements de la peau, ou ne pas être suffisamment efficaces, et elles n'ont aucune action sur l'oxygénation de la peau qui est réduite dans le cas des peaux grasses. Il est donc souhaitable de mettre au point des méthodes et compositions alternatives permettant de traiter efficacement les symptômes de la séborrhée, qui favorisent l'oxygénation de l'épiderme et qui soient parfaitement tolérées par les patients . Les études effectuées par la demanderesse ont montré qu'il est possible de traiter efficacement les états sébor- rhéiques et notamment les peaux grasses en associant un vecteur d'oxygène spécifique capable de libérer l'oxygène in situ et un agent de desquamation, plus particulièrement une protéase de desquamation ou une protéase à action kératolytique .Also known are compositions for the treatment of acne containing a peroxide, such as benzoyl peroxide, as in US patent application 2005019422 where the peroxide is associated with an acid in a stabilized formulation avoiding interaction of the acid. on the peroxide, and in the patent application WO 2008017914 wherein the peroxide is adsorbed on a porous support and associated with an anti-inflammatory and an antibiotic. It has also been proposed to combine benzoyl peroxide and urea to treat excess seborrhea, as in patent application US Pat. No. 2,003,061,084. Patent Application WO 0000/06116 describes a composition comprising an alpha-hydroxy acid, an agent antimicrobial and hydrogen peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide is commonly used as an antiseptic antibacterial for cleaning the skin. The known compositions of the state of the art may however have some side effects such as dryness of the skin, or not be sufficiently effective, and they have no effect on the oxygenation of the skin which is reduced in the skin. case of oily skin. It is therefore desirable to develop alternative methods and compositions for effectively treating the symptoms of seborrhea, which promote the oxygenation of the epidermis and which are perfectly tolerated by patients. The studies carried out by the applicant have shown that it is possible to effectively treat rheic and in particular oily skin by associating a specific oxygen vector capable of releasing oxygen in situ and a desquamating agent, more particularly a desquamation protease or a keratolytic protease.
La présente invention a donc pour objet une nouvelle composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique utile pour le traitement des états séborrhéiques, comprenant en association un vecteur d'oxygène capable de libérer l'oxygène in situ de manière contrôlée, et un agent de desquamation.The present invention therefore relates to a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition useful for the treatment of seborrheic conditions, comprising in combination an oxygen carrier capable of releasing oxygen in situ in a controlled manner, and a desquamating agent.
L'invention a aussi pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétique des effets de la séborrhée et des états séborrhéiques, consistant à appliquer sur la peau une composition associant un vecteur d'oxygène capable de libérer l'oxygène in situ de manière contrôlée, et un agent de desquamation.The subject of the invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of the effects of seborrhea and seborrhoeic conditions, comprising applying to the skin a composition combining an oxygen carrier capable of releasing oxygen in situ in a controlled manner, and a desquamation agent.
L'invention a encore pour objet l'utilisation combinée d'un vecteur d'oxygène et d'un agent de desquamation pour la préparation d'une composition dermatologique pour le traitement de la séborrhée et des états séborrhéiques, ainsi que l'utilisation cosmétique d'un vecteur d'oxygène et d'un agent de desquamation pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique topique, pour le traitement des effets de la séborrhée et des états séborrhéiques.The subject of the invention is also the combined use of an oxygen carrier and a desquamating agent for the preparation of a dermatological composition for the treatment of seborrhea and seborrheic conditions, as well as the cosmetic use of an oxygen carrier and a desquamating agent for the preparation of a topical cosmetic composition, for the treatment of the effects of seborrhea and seborrheic conditions.
La composition selon l'invention peut être avantageu- sèment utilisée sous forme de masque oxygénant que l'on peut appliquer sur la peau pendant une période de temps suffisante, généralement de quelques minutes à quelques dizaines de minutes, pour obtenir un effet de diminution de la séborrhée et un éclaircissement du teint de la peau. Le maintien de la composition sur la peau pendant une période de plusieurs minutes permet d'assurer la libération progressive de l'oxygène à partir du vecteur d'oxygène et son action combinée avec celle de l'agent de desquamation.The composition according to the invention can be advantageously used in the form of an oxygenating mask which can be applied to the skin for a sufficient period of time, generally from a few minutes to a few tens of minutes, to obtain a reducing effect on the skin. Seborrhea and a lightening of the complexion of the skin. Maintaining the composition on the skin for a period of several minutes allows the gradual release of oxygen from the oxygen carrier and its combined action with that of the desquamating agent.
L'agent de desquamation utilisé dans la présente invention peut être avantageusement choisi parmi les agents d'origine naturelle ou synthétique exerçant un effet chimique ou biologique, et non mécanique, sur la peau.The desquamating agent used in the present invention may be advantageously selected from the agents of natural or synthetic origin exerting a chemical or biological effect, not mechanical, on the skin.
Ainsi, conformément à la présente invention on peut choisir l'agent de desquamation parmi les alpha-hydroxy acides tels que l'acide lactique, l'acide glycolique, l'acide mandélique, l'acide tartrique, l'acide citrique et l'acide malique, les bêta-hydroxy acides tels que l'acide salicylique, les sels et esters de ces acides, l'urée et des dérivés d'urée, ainsi que des protéases à action kératolytique actives sur la desquamation.Thus, in accordance with the present invention, the desquamating agent can be selected from alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and the like. malic acid, beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, salts and esters of these acids, urea and urea derivatives, as well as active keratolytic proteases on desquamation.
Conformément à la présente invention, on utilise de préférence l'acide salicylique ou un agent de desquamation d'origine naturelle (végétale, animale ou bactérienne) ou biotechnologique, et en particulier une protéase de desqua- mation d'origine végétale, animale ou bactérienne. La protéase d'origine végétale peut être choisie parmi, par exemple, une aspartyl-protéase issue de la papaïne extraite de la papaye ou de la bromelaïne extraite de l'ananas, et une cysteine- protease de type oligosaccharidique extraite de figue de Barbarie. On peut utiliser aussi une protéase de desquamation d'origine animale, par exemple une sérine-protéase telle que la trypsine ou la chymotrypsine, ou, de préférence, une sérine-protéase d'origine bactérienne telle que la subtilisine issue du Bacillus subtilis. On peut utiliser plus particu- lièrement la subtilisine commercialisée sous la marque Keratoline par la société Sederma présentant une action exfoliante douce. Ce produit disponible dans le commerce contient de la subtilisine solubilisée dans un mélange d'eau, de propylène glycol, et de glycérine. On peut aussi utiliser l'extrait de figue de Barbarie commercialisé sous la marque Exfolactive par la société Silab.According to the present invention, use is preferably made of salicylic acid or a desquamating agent of natural origin (plant, animal or bacterial) or biotechnological origin, and in particular a protease of desquamation of plant, animal or bacterial origin. . The protease of plant origin may be chosen from, for example, an aspartyl protease from papain extracted from papaya or bromelain extracted from pineapple, and an oligosaccharide-type cysteine protease extracted from prickly pears. It is also possible to use a desquamation protease of animal origin, for example a serine protease such as trypsin or chymotrypsin, or, preferably, a serine protease of bacterial origin such as subtilisin from Bacillus subtilis. More particularly, the subtilisin sold under the brand Keratoline by Sederma having a mild exfoliating action can be used. This commercially available product contains subtilisin solubilized in a mixture of water, propylene glycol, and glycerin. It is also possible to use the prickly pear extract marketed under the trademark Exfolactive by Silab.
Ces agents de desquamation préférés s'avèrent particulièrement efficaces en association avec l'oxygène libéré par le vecteur d'oxygène utilisé dans la composition de 1 ' in- vention. L'agent de desquamation représente généralement entre 0.1 % et 10 %, de préférence entre 0.5 % et 4 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.These preferred desquamation agents are particularly effective in combination with oxygen released from the oxygen carrier used in the composition of the invention. The desquamation agent generally represents between 0.1% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Le vecteur d'oxygène a pour fonction d'apporter de l'oxygène directement dans l'épiderme. Divers vecteurs d'oxygène sont bien connus dans diverses techniques, par exemple dans des compositions pour le blanchiment des dents. On peut utiliser par exemple des compositions à base de peroxyde d'hydrogène (eau oxygénée) libérant de l'oxygène in situ.The function of the oxygen vector is to supply oxygen directly into the epidermis. Various oxygen carriers are well known in various techniques, for example in tooth whitening compositions. It is possible, for example, to use compositions based on hydrogen peroxide (oxygenated water) releasing oxygen in situ.
Un vecteur d'oxygène particulièrement avantageux est une perfluorodécaline qui a la propriété d'avoir une structure bicyclique perfluorée capable de capter l'oxygène ou le peroxyde pour le libérer in situ lors de l'application de la composition sur la peau. On peut utiliser par exemple une perfluorodécaline telle que celle disponible dans le commerce sous la marque Cerasome® comprenant la perfluorodécaline, du propylène glycol et de la glycérine.A particularly advantageous oxygen vector is perfluorodecalin, which has the property of having a perfluorinated bicyclic structure capable of capturing oxygen or peroxide in order to release it in situ when the composition is applied to the skin. For example, a perfluorodecalin such as that commercially available under the tradename Cerasome® including perfluorodecalin, propylene glycol and glycerin may be used.
Un autre vecteur d'oxygène avantageusement utilisé dans les compositions de la présente invention constitué d'une matrice polymère chargée en peroxyde d'hydrogène, peut être par exemple un copolymère de méthacrylates d'allyle, de peroxyde d'hydrogène et d'eau, commercialisé sous la marque Polypore 337HP par la société Amcol. La matrice de polymère sert de réservoir contenant le peroxyde sous forme stabilisée, qui est libéré de la matrice lorsque la composition est appliquée sur la peau, sa libération étant éventuellement complétée en exerçant une légère pression, par exemple en massant légèrement les zones enduites. La charge de peroxyde d'hydrogène dans le vecteur d'oxygène utilisé dans l'invention représente généralement entre 0,04 % et 5 %, de préférence entre 0,2 % et 2 % en poids du poids total de la composition, ce qui correspond à une teneur en matrice de polymère comprise entre 0,1 et 15 %, de préférence entre 0,6 et 6 % environ, respectivement. Suivant une forme avantageuse de réalisation, le vecteur d'oxygène, notamment la perfluorodécaline, est associé en outre à un peroxyde de métal alcalin ou alcalino-terreux, en particulier le peroxyde de magnésium qui contribue à stabili- ser la libération de l'oxygène in situ et à favoriser l'effet anti-vieillissement de la peau, en limitant le stress oxydant responsable de l'hypoxie tissulaire des couches superficielles de l'épiderme, et en limitant la production des acides gras inflammatoires. Les études effectuées ont montré que l'asso- dation de perfluorodécaline et de peroxyde de magnasium procure des effets antiséborrhéiques améliorés.Another oxygen carrier advantageously used in the compositions of the present invention consisting of a polymer matrix loaded with hydrogen peroxide, can be for example a copolymer of allyl methacrylates, hydrogen peroxide and water, marketed under the trademark Polypore 337HP by the company Amcol. The polymer matrix serves as a reservoir containing the stabilized form of peroxide, which is released from the matrix when the composition is applied to the skin, its release possibly being completed by exerting a slight pressure, for example by slightly massaging the coated areas. The charge of hydrogen peroxide in the oxygen carrier used in the invention is generally between 0.04% and 5%, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition, which corresponds to a polymer matrix content of between 0.1 and 15%, preferably between approximately 0.6 and 6%, respectively. According to an advantageous embodiment, the oxygen carrier, in particular perfluorodecalin, is also associated with an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal peroxide, in particular magnesium peroxide, which contributes to stabilizing the oxygen release. in situ and to promote the anti-aging effect of the skin, by limiting the oxidative stress responsible for tissue hypoxia of the superficial layers of the epidermis, and by limiting the production of inflammatory fatty acids. Studies have shown that the combination of perfluorodecalin and magnesium peroxide provides improved antiseborrheic effects.
La combinaison d'agent de desquamation, notamment de protéase de desquamation, et de vecteur d'oxygène, selon l'invention, procure un effet inattendu sur l'excès sébor- rhéique des peaux grasses comme indiqué plus en détail ci- après .The combination of desquamating agent, in particular desquamation protease, and oxygen carrier, according to the invention, provides an unexpected effect on the excess seborrheal of oily skin as indicated in more detail below.
La composition de l'invention peut aussi contenir un agent absorbant l'excès de sébum, par exemple une argile kaolinitique riche en sels minéraux, qui présente l'avantage de procurer un effet additionnel exfoliant léger lorsqu'elle est appliquée sur la peau et soumise à une légère pression, provoquée par exemple par un massage doux.The composition of the invention may also contain an excess sebum absorbing agent, for example a kaolinitic clay rich in mineral salts, which has the advantage of providing a slight additional exfoliating effect when applied to the skin and subject to at a slight pressure, caused for example by a gentle massage.
Un kaolin approprié est celui commercialisé sous la dénomination Marajo Scrub par la société Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, se présentant sous forme de poudre blanche à grise, dispersible dans l'eau et les huiles, de granulométrie voisine de 40 - 50 μm. On peut aussi utiliser du kaolin blanc de type SP20 disponible dans le commerce.A suitable kaolin is the product sold under the name Marajo Scrub by the company Serobiological Laboratories, which is in the form of a white to gray powder, dispersible in water and oils, with a particle size in the region of 40-50 μm. Commercial white type SP20 kaolin can also be used.
La composition de l'invention peut encore contenir avantageusement un agent de gommage superficiel de la peau qui vient compléter l'action de l'association du vecteur d'oxygène et de l'agent de desquamation. Un tel agent de gommage peut être par exemple une poudre de cires naturelles à particules sensiblement sphériques, plus particulièrement des composi- tions à base de cires de Carnauba ou de Jojoba telles que celles commercialisées sous la marque Naturebead par la société Micro Powders Inc.The composition of the invention may also advantageously contain a superficial skin peel agent which completes the action of the combination of the oxygen carrier and the desquamating agent. Such a scrubbing agent may be, for example, a powder of natural waxes with substantially spherical particles, more particularly compositions based on Carnauba or Jojoba waxes such as those marketed under the Naturebead brand by Micro Powders Inc.
Les compositions de l'invention peuvent encore contenir des excipients et supports tels que ceux couramment utilisés dans les préparations à usage cosmétique, et choisis en fonction de la forme d'administration retenue. A titre d'exemple, on peut citer des gélifiants, des émulsionnants, des épaississants, des conservateurs, des adoucissants, ainsi que des parfums. L'ajout d'un agent gélifiant est avantageux pour faciliter l'application de la composition sur la peau.The compositions of the invention may also contain excipients and carriers such as those commonly used in preparations for cosmetic use, and chosen according to the form of administration retained. By way of example, mention may be made of gelling agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, softeners, as well as perfumes. The addition of a gelling agent is advantageous for facilitating the application of the composition to the skin.
Elles peuvent se présenter par exemple sous forme de solutions aqueuses, huileuses ou hydro-alcooliques, de dispersions, de sérums épais, de gels (aqueux, anhydres ou lipo- philes), d'émulsions liquides ou semi-liquides (par exemple un lait), solides ou semi-solides. Les émulsions peuvent être du type huile dans eau (H/E) , eau dans huile (E/H) , ou eau dans silicone, par exemple des gels ou des crèmes adaptés à une utilisation sous forme de masque cosmétique.They may for example be in the form of aqueous solutions, oily or aqueous-alcoholic, dispersions, thick serums, gels (aqueous, anhydrous or lipophilic), liquid or semi-liquid emulsions (for example a milk ), solid or semi-solid. The emulsions may be of the oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O) or water-in-silicone type, for example gels or creams adapted for use in the form of a cosmetic mask.
Ces compositions sont préparées par les techniques classiques bien connues, par exemple en chauffant les phases huileuses et aqueuses puis en les mélangeant successivement.These compositions are prepared by well-known conventional techniques, for example by heating the oily and aqueous phases and then mixing them successively.
La composition de l'invention associant un vecteur d'oxygène et un agent de desquamation s'est avérée particulièrement efficace dans le traitement des états séborrhéiques, notamment du visage, plus spécifiquement des zones du front et du nez, et du cou.The composition of the invention combining an oxygen carrier and a desquamating agent has proved particularly effective in the treatment of seborrheic conditions, in particular of the face, more specifically of the forehead and nose areas, and of the neck.
Le traitement consiste à appliquer la composition, de préférence sous forme de masque cosmétique, sur les zones de la peau les plus affectées par la séborrhée, pendant une période de temps comprise généralement entre 1 et 30 minutes, et de préférence entre 3 et 15 minutes, le cas échéant en massant légèrement en fin d'application pendant quelques instants pour faciliter la libération totale de l'oxygène, et en procédant ensuite à un rinçage à l'eau. Ce traitement peut être répété avec une fréquence adaptée à l'état du patient, un traitement approprié pouvant être de une à trois applications par semaine.The treatment consists in applying the composition, preferably in the form of a cosmetic mask, to the areas of the skin most affected by seborrhea, for a period of time generally ranging between 1 and 30 minutes, and preferably between 3 and 15 minutes. , if necessary by massaging slightly at the end of application for a few moments to facilitate the total release of oxygen, and then rinsing with water. This treatment can be repeated with a frequency adapted to the state of the patient, a suitable treatment being one to three applications per week.
L'effet d'éclaircissement du teint de la peau est observé dès la première application de la composition de l'invention.The lightening effect of the complexion of the skin is observed from the first application of the composition of the invention.
Outre les résultats exposés ci-après, les études cliniques ont montré une diminution de 15% de la sécrétion de sébum par rapport à un échantillon témoin, résultant probablement d'une libération des squalènes et squalanes du sébum. Cette diminution est mise en évidence par des prélèvements au moyen de bandes Sebutape® et analyse par imagerie. Ces résultats permettent de différencier clairement la composition de l'invention de l'action d'un antiseptique classique de référence tel que le peroxyde de benzoyle. Les résultats de l'étude clinique effectuée sont indiqués dans l'Exemple 1 ci-après. Les Exemples 2 à 4 décrivent des compositions conformes à la présente invention. Dans tous ces exemples, les parties et proportions sont exprimées en poids, sauf indication contraire.In addition to the results presented below, clinical studies have shown a 15% decrease in sebum secretion compared to a control sample, probably resulting from a release of squalenes and squalanes from sebum. This decrease is evidenced by sampling with Sebutape® bands and imaging analysis. These results make it possible to clearly differentiate the composition of the invention from the action of a conventional standard antiseptic such as benzoyl peroxide. The results of the clinical study carried out are given in Example 1 below. Examples 2 to 4 describe compositions according to the present invention. In all these examples, parts and proportions are by weight unless otherwise indicated.
Exemple 1Example 1
Une étude clinique d'un masque oxygénant dont la composition est celle de l'Exemple 2 ci-après a été effectuée par un dermatologue sur 10 patients présentant une peau séborrhéique . La peau était terne, grisâtre, luisante, épaissie, les pores des régions centro-faciales dilatés. On notait la présence de quelques comédons.A clinical study of an oxygenating mask whose composition is that of Example 2 below was carried out by a dermatologist on 10 patients with seborrheic skin. The skin was dull, greyish, shiny, thickened, the pores of the dilated centro-facial regions. There was the presence of some comedones.
Protocole :Protocol:
Le masque se présente sous la forme d'un gel épais dont la composition correspond à l'Exemple 2 ci-après.The mask is in the form of a thick gel whose composition corresponds to Example 2 below.
L'application a été faite avec les doigts ou une spatule en couche épaisse, en répartissant le produit sur l'ensemble du visage, en évitant les zones oculairesThe application was made with the fingers or a spatula in a thick layer, distributing the product over the entire face, avoiding the eye areas
Le temps d'application a été : - 5 minutes pour 3 patientsThe application time was: - 5 minutes for 3 patients
- 10 minutes pour 3 patients- 10 minutes for 3 patients
- 15 minutes pour 3 patients- 15 minutes for 3 patients
- 20 minutes pour 1 patient. Le produit a une action progressive se manifestant par un blanchiment de surface et l'apparition d'un léger dégagement gazeux. Il ne provoque pas de sensation désagréable, mais une sensation de fraîcheur lors de l'application.- 20 minutes for 1 patient. The product has a progressive action manifesting itself by a surface whitening and the appearance of a slight release of gas. It does not cause an uncomfortable sensation, but a feeling of freshness during the application.
Après le temps de pose indiqué ci-dessus, le patient effectue un léger massage puis un rinçage à l'eau tiède La peau est ensuite séchée.After the exposure time indicated above, the patient performs a light massage and rinsing with lukewarm water. The skin is then dried.
Résultats :Results:
On observe que la peau est très nettement éclaircie, le teint grisâtre a disparu, les pores sont resserrés. On note une nette désincrustation au niveau des zones de rétention sébacée.It is observed that the skin is very clearly thinned, the grayish complexion has disappeared, the pores are narrowed. There is a clear desincrustation in the sebaceous retention zones.
La peau est légèrement rosée et plus souple.The skin is slightly pink and more supple.
La tolérance est excellente.The tolerance is excellent.
Tous les patients se disent satisfaits du résultat obtenu.All patients are satisfied with the result.
L'analyse détaillée des résultats montre que l'effet du masque est rapide puisqu'un résultat favorable est constaté pour des temps d'application de 5 minutes environ.The detailed analysis of the results shows that the effect of the mask is fast since a favorable result is observed for application times of about 5 minutes.
Pour des applications de 10 minutes, l'éclaircissement et le resserrement des pores sont légèrement plus importants.For 10-minute applications, lightening and pore tightening is slightly greater.
Les temps d'application plus longs (15 à 20 minutes) ne modifient pas sensiblement le résultat.Longer application times (15 to 20 minutes) do not significantly change the result.
Conclusionsconclusions
Cet essai clinique montre que le masque à l'oxygène actif de l'invention constitue une technique efficace pour améliorer les conséquences de la séborrhée sur la peau du visage.This clinical trial shows that the active oxygen mask of the invention is an effective technique to improve the consequences of seborrhea on the skin of the face.
L'application simple du produit, le temps d'application réduit, la parfaite tolérance, justifient son usage régulier (une à deux fois par semaine) dans le cadre d'une prise en charge cosmétique globale des peaux grasses.The simple application of the product, the reduced application time, the perfect tolerance, justify its regular use (once or twice a week) as part of a global cosmetic treatment for oily skin.
Exemple 2Example 2
On prépare un gel émulsionné épais ayant la composition pondérale indiquée ci-dessous. Phase A :A thick emulsified gel having the weight composition indicated below is prepared. Phase A:
Eau q.s.p. 100,00Water q.s. 100.00
EDTA disodique 0,10Disodium EDTA 0.10
Glycérine 3,00 Sorbitol 3,00Glycerin 3.00 Sorbitol 3.00
Butylène glycol 2,00Butylene glycol 2.00
Phase B :Phase B:
Kaolin 3,00Kaolin 3.00
Phase C : Hydroxyéthyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloylPhase C: Hydroxyethyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl
Diméthyl taurate copolymère (Sepinov EMT 10®) 3,00 Phase D :Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10®) 3.00 Phase D:
Keratoline® 1,00Keratoline® 1.00
Phase E : Polypore 337HP® 3,00Phase E: Polypore 337HP® 3.00
Phase F :Phase F:
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20®) 2,00Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20®) 2.00
Pentylène glycol 1,00Pentylene glycol 1.00
Chlorphénésine 0,20 Phénoxyéthanol 0,60Chlorphenesine 0,20 Phenoxyethanol 0,60
La Keratoline® est un mélange eau / glycérine / propylène glycol / ferment bacillus (subtilisine) , disponible dans le commerce auprès de la société Sederma. Le Polypore 337HP® comprend de l'eau, une matrice de polymère réticulé à base de méthacrylate d'allyle et de l'eau, et est disponible dans le commerce auprès de la société Quimdis.Keratoline® is a water / glycerin / propylene glycol / ferment bacillus (subtilisin) mixture, commercially available from Sederma. Polypore 337HP® comprises water, a crosslinked polymer matrix based on allyl methacrylate and water, and is commercially available from Quimdis.
Le gel est préparé à température ambiante en mélangeant les composants de la phase A sous agitation (300 trs/min) jusqu'à obtenir une phase homogène. On ajoute ensuite les composants de la phase B, puis de la phase C en augmentant la vitesse d'agitation (1200 trs/min) . On introduit ensuite les phases D et E et on maintient l'agitation jusqu'à obtenir une phase homogène. Les composants de la phase F sont soigneusement mélangés et la phase homogène obtenue est ajoutée à l'émulsion.The gel is prepared at ambient temperature by mixing the components of phase A with stirring (300 rpm) until a homogeneous phase is obtained. The components of phase B and phase C are then added by increasing the stirring speed (1200 rpm). Phase D and E are then introduced and the stirring is maintained until a homogeneous phase is obtained. The components of phase F are thoroughly mixed and the homogeneous phase obtained is added to the emulsion.
Le pH est ajusté si nécessaire à 6,0 - 6,2 par addition de soude à 32%.The pH is adjusted if necessary to 6.0 - 6.2 by addition of 32% sodium hydroxide.
On obtient ainsi un gel émulsionné épais de couleur beige .A thick emulsified gel of beige color is thus obtained.
Exemple 3Example 3
On prépare un gel épais de même composition que celui de l'Exemple 2 ci-dessus, mais en remplaçant le kaolin par 0,10 parties de Regu-seb® disponible dans le commerce dont la composition est : Argania spinosa (and) Serena serrulata (and) Sesamum indicum, et en ajoutant un agent de gommage douxA thick gel of the same composition as that of Example 2 above is prepared, but replacing the kaolin by 0.10 parts of commercially available Regu-seb® whose composition is: Argania spinosa (and) Serena serrulata (and) Sesamum indicum, and adding a gentle scrub agent
(Naturebead G20®) .(Naturebead G20®).
Exemple 4Example 4
On prépare un masque cosmétique constitué d'un gel épais ayant la composition reprenant les composants de l'Exemple 2 (avec kaolin) et en ajoutant du Regu-seb® et un agent de gommage constitué par du Rilsan BHV (Nylon 12) à raison de 2 parties en poids.A cosmetic mask consisting of a thick gel having the composition containing the components of Example 2 (with kaolin) is prepared and Regu-seb® and a scrubbing agent consisting of Rilsan BHV (Nylon 12) are added at exactly the same rate. of 2 parts by weight.
Exemple 5Example 5
On prépare un gel émulsionné épais ayant la composition pondérale indiquée ci-dessous.A thick emulsified gel having the weight composition indicated below is prepared.
Phase A :Phase A:
Eau 77,70Water 77.70
EDTA disodique 0,10Disodium EDTA 0.10
Glycérine 3,00 Sorbitol 3,00Glycerin 3.00 Sorbitol 3.00
Butylène glycol 2,00Butylene glycol 2.00
Phase B :Phase B:
Hydroxyéthyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl Diméthyl taurate copolymère (Sepinov EMT 10®) 3,00Hydroxyethyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl Dimethyl taurate copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10®) 3.00
Phase C :Phase C:
Argania spinosa (and) Serena serrulata (and)Argania spinosa (and) Serena serrulata (and)
Sesamum indicum (Regu-seb®) 0,10 Phase D :Sesamum indicum (Regu-seb®) 0.10 Phase D:
Exfolactive® 2,00Exfolactive® 2.00
Phase E :Phase E:
Polypore 337HP® 3,00Polypore 337HP® 3.00
Phase F : Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20®) 2,00Phase F: Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20®) 2.00
Pentylène glycol 1,00Pentylene glycol 1.00
Chlorphénésine 0,20Chlorphenesin 0.20
Phénoxyéthanol 0,60Phenoxyethanol 0.60
Phase G : Cetyl esters (and) Oryza sativa (and) OleaPhase G: Cetyl esters (and) Oryza sativa (and) Olea
Europaea (Naturebead G20®) 2,00Europaea (Naturebead G20®) 2.00
Exfolactive® est un extrait de fleur de figue de Barbarie (nom INCI Hydrolyzed Oprentia ficus indica flower extract) . Le procédé de préparation du gel est identique à celui de l'Exemple 2 ci-dessus.Exfolactive® is an extract of prickly pear flower (INCI name Hydrolyzed Oprentia ficus indica flower extract). The process for preparing the gel is identical to that of Example 2 above.
Exemple 6Example 6
On prépare un gel émulsionné épais ayant la composition pondérale indiquée ci-dessous. Phase A : Eau 64,70A thick emulsified gel having the weight composition indicated below is prepared. Phase A: Water 64.70
EDTA disodique 0,10Disodium EDTA 0.10
Glycérine 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Sorbitol 3,00Sorbitol 3.00
Butylène glycol 2,00 Phase B :Butylene Glycol 2.00 Phase B:
Hydroxyéthyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloylHydroxyethyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl
Diméthyl taurate copolymère (Sepinov EMT 10®) 3,00 Phase C :Dimethyl taurate copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10®) 3.00 Phase C:
Argania spinosa (and) Serena serrulata (and) Sesamum indicum (Regu-seb®) 0,10Argania spinosa (and) Serena serrulata (and) Sesamum indicum (Regu-seb®) 0.10
Phase D : Butylène glycol 5,00Phase D: Butylene glycol 5.00
Eau 5,00Water 5.00
Acide salicylique 1,50Salicylic acid 1.50
Acide glycolique 1,50Glycolic acid 1.50
Phase E : Polypore 337HP® 3,00Phase E: Polypore 337HP® 3.00
Phase F :Phase F:
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20®) 2,00Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20®) 2.00
Pentylène glycol 1,00Pentylene glycol 1.00
Chlorphénésine 0,20 Phénoxyéthanol 0,60Chlorphenesine 0,20 Phenoxyethanol 0,60
Phase G :Phase G:
Cetyl esters (and) Oryza sativa (and) Olea Europaea (Naturebead G20®) 2,00Cetyl esters (and) Oryza sativa (and) Olea Europaea (Naturebead G20®) 2.00
Phase H : Hydroxyde de sodium 10% q.s.p. pH 4Phase H: Sodium hydroxide 10% q.s. pH 4
Ce gel peut être utilisé comme masque, comme celui de ' Exempl 2. This gel can be used as a mask, like that of 'Exempl 2.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique utile pour le traitement des états séborrhéiques, comprenant en association un vecteur d'oxygène capable de libérer l'oxygène in situ de manière contrôlée, et un agent de desquamation. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition useful for the treatment of seborrheic conditions, comprising in combination an oxygen carrier capable of releasing oxygen in situ in a controlled manner, and a desquamating agent.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'agent de desquamation est choisi parmi les alpha- hydroxy acides, les bêta-hydroxy acides, les sels et esters de ces acides, l'urée et des dérivés d'urée, ainsi que des protéases à action kératolytique actives sur la desquamation. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the desquamation agent is chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, salts and esters of these acids, urea and urea derivatives, as well as proteases with keratolytic action active on desquamation.
3. Composition selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que 1 ' alpha-hydroxy acide est choisi parmi l'acide lactique, l'acide glycolique, l'acide mandélique, l'acide tartrique, l'acide citrique et l'acide malique, ainsi que leurs sels et esters. 3. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and malic acid. as well as their salts and esters.
4. Composition selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que l'agent de desquamation est l'acide salicylique.4. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the desquamation agent is salicylic acid.
5. Composition selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que l'agent de desquamation est une protéase à action kératolytique active sur la desquamation. 5. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the desquamation agent is a protease with active keratolytic action on the desquamation.
6. Composition selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce que la protéase à action kératolytique est une protéase d'origine végétale choisie parmi une aspartyl-protéase issue de la papaïne ou de la bromelaïne, et une cysteine-protéase de type oligosaccharidique extraite de figue de Barbarie, ou une sérine-protéase d'origine animale ou bactérienne choisie parmi la trypsine, la chymotrypsine et la subtilisine6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the keratolytic protease is a protease of plant origin selected from an aspartyl protease from papain or bromelain, and an oligosaccharide-type cysteine protease extracted from fig. of Barbary, or a serine protease of animal or bacterial origin selected from trypsin, chymotrypsin and subtilisin
7. Composition selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce que la protéase à activité kératolytique est la subtilisine . 7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the protease with keratolytic activity is subtilisin.
8. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le vecteur d'oxygène est une composition à base de peroxyde d'hydrogène libérant de l'oxygène in situ. 8. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oxygen carrier is a composition based on hydrogen peroxide releasing oxygen in situ.
9. Composition selon la revendication 8, caractérisée en ce que le vecteur d'oxygène est constitué d'un copolymère de méthacrylate d'allyle, de peroxyde d'hydrogène et d'eau.9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the oxygen carrier consists of a copolymer of allyl methacrylate, hydrogen peroxide and water.
10. Composition selon la revendication 8, caractérisée en ce que le vecteur d'oxygène comprend une perfluorodécaline .10. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the oxygen carrier comprises perfluorodecalin.
11. Composition selon la revendication 10, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend en outre du peroxyde de magnésium.11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it further comprises magnesium peroxide.
12. Procédé de traitement cosmétique des effets de la séborrhée et des états séborrhéiques, consistant à appliquer sur la peau une composition associant un vecteur d'oxygène capable de libérer l'oxygène in situ de manière contrôlée, et un agent de desquamation.12. A method of cosmetic treatment of the effects of seborrhea and seborrheic states, comprising applying to the skin a composition combining an oxygen carrier capable of releasing oxygen in situ in a controlled manner, and a desquamating agent.
13. Utilisation combinée d'un vecteur d'oxygène capable de libérer l'oxygène in situ de manière contrôlée, et d'un agent de desquamation pour la préparation d'une composition dermatologique pour le traitement de la séborrhée et des états séborrhéiques .13. Combined use of an oxygen carrier capable of releasing oxygen in situ in a controlled manner, and a desquamating agent for the preparation of a dermatological composition for the treatment of seborrhea and seborrheic conditions.
14. Utilisation d'un vecteur d'oxygène capable de libérer l'oxygène in situ de manière contrôlée, et d'un agent de desquamation pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique topiquepour le traitement des effets de la séborrhée et des états séborrhéiques. 14. Use of an oxygen carrier capable of releasing oxygen in situ in a controlled manner, and a desquamating agent for the preparation of a topical cosmetic composition for treating the effects of seborrhea and seborrheic conditions.
EP09746020A 2008-04-30 2009-04-30 Composition for the treatment of seborrhoeic conditions Withdrawn EP2273965A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR0802438A FR2930727B1 (en) 2008-04-30 2008-04-30 COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF SEBORRHEIC STATES.
PCT/FR2009/050801 WO2009138701A1 (en) 2008-04-30 2009-04-30 Composition for the treatment of seborrhoeic conditions

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