FR2954166A1 - Cosmetic use of plant extract of Peumus boldus as freshening agent in the preparation of cosmetic composition, for treating skin and to hide or blur the bag and/or dark circles around the eyes - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of a plant extract of Peumus boldusas a freshening agent, is claimed. An independent claim is included for cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising a combination of the plant extract with at least one skin care active agent comprising desquamating-, antimicrobial-, antiinflammatory- and/or seboregulating- agents and/or antioxidants. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention aims to provide a new active interesting in terms of the freshness effect it provides when applied to the skin. In a number of cosmetic and dermatological formulations, it is desirable to provide, together with the desired aesthetic and / or dermatological effect, a freshness effect. Such an effect provides an invigorating feeling generally much sought after by consumers. This cool effect is particularly particularly sought for cosmetic and / or dermatological products dedicated to the treatment of oily or acne-prone skin. This fresh feeling indeed provides, then jointly a soothing effect particularly appreciated by the subject. Conventionally, this freshness effect is provided by the presence of ethanol in these formulations. Unfortunately, because of its very polar nature, ethanol does not prove to be compatible with all the structures considered for cosmetic compositions.

Thus, ethanol often causes instabilities in emulsified or gelled systems. Consequently, there remains a need for an asset capable of providing a freshness effect and compatible with systems of the emulsion or gel type. The present invention aims precisely to meet this need.

More specifically, the present invention relates to the use of an extract of a plant of the family Monimiaceae, and more particularly of the species Peumus boldus as a freshness agent. The Boldo (Peumus boldus Mol.) Is a small, bushy tree, belonging to the Monimiaceae family and growing in Chile. Boldo is used as a medicinal plant in traditional medicine. The Boldo leaves are mainly used for the treatment of liver diseases, intestinal intoxications, against rheumatism or as a diuretic, stomachic and sedative. In addition, the leaves are used as an anthelmintic and the juice extracted from leaves is used, instilled in the ear, to treat otitis.

For its part, the patent FR 2 784 027 describes the effectiveness of extracts Boldo to combat various phenomena and reactions involved in tissue aging, including those caused or accelerated by solar radiation. According to the literature, Boldo leaves contain 1.2% tannins, 2-3% essential oils (including 45% ascaridol and 30% cineole and a mixture of many terpenes), flavonoids or flavonic glycosides (have been isolated: pneumoside, boldoside, fragoside, ...) and 0.25-0.50% of aporphinic alkaloids with boldine as the main alkaloid (25% of the total alkaloid content). Boldine is also known to possess antioxidant activity, a neutralizing effect of free radicals and an inhibition effect of peroxidation (cytochrome P-450 system, microsomal membranes). The document WO 02/066000 proposes for its part to use boldine for the treatment of cellulite and skin firming. Unexpectedly, the inventors have quite recently found that the presence of an extract of Boldo (Peumus boldus Mol.) In a cosmetic composition gives, when applied to it on the skin, a fresh effect. Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention aims at the cosmetic use of at least one plant extract of the species Peumus boldus as a freshness agent. Advantageously, the extract considered according to the invention may be formulated in a cosmetic or dermatological composition. Thus, the present invention is directed to the use of an extract of a plant of the species Peumus boldus as a freshness agent for the preparation of a cosmetic composition. According to a preferred embodiment variant, the extract comprises a solvent phase, in particular based on water and butylene glycol. The extract or the compositions containing it according to the invention may advantageously be used for concealing or blurring skin defects, in particular bags and / or periocular rings, in order to obtain a uniform, uniform skin tone. natural appearance, bright, alive. They can thus make it possible to homogenize and / or clarify the complexion and / or to reduce the effect of scruffy complexion. In this case, the compositions containing the extract may be in the form of a skin care base, a care cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream), a makeup base , or a tinted skincare cream. According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic skin treatment process comprising at least the surface application of said skin of at least one extract according to the invention. According to yet another of its aspects, the invention is directed to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising the combination of a plant extract of the species Peumus boldus according to the invention with at least one selected oily skincare active ingredient. among desquamating agents and / or anti-microbial and / or anti-inflammatory and / or sebo-regulators and / or antioxidants. According to a preferred variant the use, method and composition according to the invention have a non-therapeutic nature.

Plant extract of the species Peumus boldus The extract of the species Peumus boldus can be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from said plant. Thus, the extract used according to the invention can be obtained from plant material derived from the whole plant or from a plant part such as leaves, stems, flowers, petals, fruits, roots or even dedifferentiated cells. Preferably according to the invention, the extract is derived from the leaves. The extract according to the invention may be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from at least one plant cultivated in vivo or derived from in vitro culture. By in vivo culture is meant any culture of conventional type, ie in soil in the open air or in the greenhouse, or above ground. By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allows the production of a plant or part of a plant. The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, unlike plants grown in vivo. Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the extract contained in the composition according to the invention. It can thus be an extract obtained by extraction with solvent (s), by maceration, decoction, leaching or extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves. In particular, the extracts obtained by extraction with an aqueous or alcoholic solvent or even another organic solvent may be mentioned. More specifically, the extraction solvent can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl and / or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols. alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, propanol and butanol or a mixture thereof. Conventionally, in a first step, the plant material is milled in a cold aqueous solution, in a second step the suspended particles are removed from the aqueous solution resulting from the first step, generally by filtration or ultrafiltration, and in a third step, sterilizes the aqueous solution from the second step. The aqueous extract thus obtained can be used as it is or be formulated with a co-solvent, for example butylene glycol. In this embodiment, it may also be advantageous to associate a preservative with said aqueous extract, or even to thicken the corresponding formulation with a gelling agent such as xanthan gum, for example. Whatever the method of preparation used to obtain the extract in question according to the invention, subsequent steps to promote its preservation and / or stabilization can be added without changing the nature of the extract itself. Thus, for example, the extract obtained can be lyophilized by any conventional freeze-drying method. A powder is thus obtained which can be used directly or mixed in a suitable solvent before use. Preferably, according to the invention, an aqueous extract is used and even more preferably an extract formulated with a solvent composed of water and butylene glycol. Such an aqueous extract may comprise from 0.5 to 10% or even from 1 to 6% by weight relative to its total weight of active ingredient (MA). The aqueous extract sold under the name Betapur® or Betapur Alor 107A® by the company BASF Beauty Care Solutions is particularly suitable for the invention. (INCI name: Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum). More particularly, the plant extract of the species Peumus boldus or the composition containing it are used according to the invention for topical application to the skin. The amount of usable extract according to the invention is of course a function of the desired effect and can therefore vary to a large extent. To give an order of magnitude, an aqueous extract may be used as formulated above in an amount representing from 0.001% to 20% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of the product. total weight of the composition containing it. In particular, a cosmetic composition according to the invention may advantageously contain between 0.0001% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 2% by weight expressed by weight of Boldine, the main alkaloid constituting the Boldo leaf. The extract can constitute by itself the active principle of the compositions considered according to the invention or be associated with other complementary active (s).

COMPLEMENTARY ACTIVE INGREDIENTS The complementary active ingredient may be chosen from essential oils and from agents that promote cutaneous microcirculation, temperature-modulating agents and mixtures thereof. The essential oil can be selected from cinnamon essential oil, ginger essential oil, black pepper essential oil, chilli leaf essential oil, peppermint essential oil, and the clove essential oil and one of their mixtures. In particular, agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation act, after topical application to the lips, via stimulation of vasodilatation and / or an anti-coagulant effect and / or an anti-hyperstensive effect. In particular, as agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation, mention may be made of: phosphodiesterase inhibiting agents; flavonoids or flavoglycosides; Glucosides; plant extracts with vasodilator properties; vasodilator peptides; and other vasodilator agents.

Antihypertensive Agents Examples that may be mentioned include thiazides; angiotensin receptor blockers, such as losartan or candesartan; prostaglandins especially of type E and prostacyclines; ACE inhibitors, such as captopril or ramipril; potassium channel openers, such as minoxidil, cromakalim, diazoxide, nicorandil, pinacidil and derivatives; calcium channel blockers, such as nifedipine, verapamil, diltiazem, amlodipine; adrenergic receptor blockers, such as niacin (nicotinic acid), prazosin, hydralazine; muscarinic acetylcholine receptor activators.

Phosphodiesterase Inhibitors Examples that may be mentioned include phosphodiesterase type V inhibitors such as visnadine and esculoside, icarine and its derivatives or extracts containing them, as described in application WO 2005/004858.

Flavonoids and Flavoglycosides Examples that may be mentioned include Ginkgo flavoglycosides, amentflavone or dimeric Gingko biloba flavones in free form or complexed with phospholipids as described in application WO 2005/004858; hesperidin, alpha-G-hesperidin, heperidine methyl chalcone, rutosides (eg beta-hydroxyethylrutoside, trimethylrutoside).

Glucosides Especially escin, escin beta-sitosterol, adenosine or ATP (adenosine triphosphate); esculoside, hesperidin, alpha-G-hesperidin rutosides (eg beta-hydroxyethyl-rutoside, trimethyl-rutoside); Plant Extracts With Vasodilating Properties There may be mentioned for example the extract of Corsican immortelle (Helichrysum italicum) as described in particular in the application WO 03/018730; extracts of blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum), mistletoe, epimedes (Epimedium grandiflora), kiwifruit (Actinidia chinensis L.), cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), sweetclover (Melissa officinalis), small periwinkle (Vinca minora) , of Centella asiatica, of Terminalia sericea (sericoside), extracts of Calendulae, extracts of Arnica, extracts of Ammi visnaga.

Vasodilator Peptides CGRP (peptide derived from the calcitonin gene), substance P (a decapeptide released by a nerve terminal) or VIP (Vasoactive Intestinal Polypeptide) as described in application EP 225 639, the content of which is incorporated in this application by reference.

Other Vasodilating Agents Examples that may be mentioned include nicotinic acid (niacin) and its derivatives, such as nicotinic acid esters, for example xanthinol nicotinate, inositol nicotinate; salicylic acid and its esters; the dihydro-ergotoxin methanesulfonate; dihydroergocornine methanesulfonate, dihydro-ergocristine methanesulfonate, cinnarizine, vincamine, pentoxifylline, bamethane sulfate, bencyclane hydrogenofumarate, beta-pyridylcarbinol. Mention may also be made of nitrogen monoxide (NO) donors or precursors, non-polymeric NO liberators; stimulators of synthesis and / or activity of NO synthases (NOS) and mixtures thereof.

Temperature modulating agents The temperature modulating agent may be an adjunct cooling agent. For example, menthol or plant extracts and / or essential oils of mint, aloe vera or ginseng are known as cooling compounds. The cooling agent may comprise an endothermic organic salt such as potassium chloride, mint or one of its derivatives, for example menthol, peppermint oil (peppermint), wintergreen, menthone, menthyl lactate, spearmint, mint oil, menthane derivatives such as menthane N-substituted carboxamides and especially N-ethyl P-menthane Carboxamide-3, 3- (1-menthoxy) -propane-1, 2-diol, p-menthane-3,8-diol, menthyl succinate and its alkaline earth salts, and mixtures thereof, or a nitrogen compound such as urea. These compounds are generally used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

Similarly, the compositions according to the invention may contain active agents other than those mentioned above. As ancillary active agents that can also be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of active agents for the care of oily skin, moisturizing agents such as, for example, protein hydrolysates and polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols. , and sugar derivatives; vitamins such as, for example, vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters ) and their mixtures; caffeine; retinoids such as, for example, carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; solar filters; extracts of algae, mushrooms, other plants, yeasts, bacteria; enzymes; tensors; and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an active agent for the care of oily skin. By the term "skincare active ingredient" is meant, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an agent. external to activate it, a biological activity which can be in particular: - an desquamating activity (which allows the opening of comedones), and / or - an antimicrobial activity (especially on P. acnes), and / or - an anti-inflammatory activity, and / or - a sebo-regulatory activity, and / or - an antioxidant activity (which prevents the oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones).

The skincare active ingredient may therefore be chosen from desquamating and / or anti-microbial and / or anti-inflammatory and / or sebum-regulating and / or anti-oxidizing agents.

Desquamating agents By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as 3-hydroxy acids, such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives; or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine. Advantageously, the desquamating agent is chosen from (3-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid), glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; urea, gentisic acid, oligofucoses, cinnamic acid, Saphora japonica extract, resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives, (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES) and 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine) N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid is preferred for use in the present invention.

Antimicrobial Agents The antimicrobial agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4 , 4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopiroxe, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 2,4,4 ' -trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox, octoxy glycerin, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent WO9318743, copper pidolate, salicylic acid, zinc salicylate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof. Preferred antimicrobial agents are octoxyglycerine, copper pidolate, zinc salicylate, and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate.

Anti-inflammatory agents Advantageously, the anti-inflammatory or soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, such as 3-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts. and / or its derivatives (glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, bisabolol, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, phycosaccharides from Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol and extracts of chamomile, allantoin, EPP Seppic Seperate Seperate (EPC), omega 3 unsaturated oils such as Rosehip, Blackcurrant, Echium, fish, plankton extract, capryloyl glycine, Seppicum Seppicalm VG (sodium palmitoylproline and nymphea alba), an extract of Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami, an extract of Helianthus annuus, an extract of Linum usitatissimum, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, extracts of Centella asiatica, piperonal, a clove extract, an extract of Epilobium Angustifolium, aloe vera, an extract of Bacopa monieri, phytosterols, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone.

Preferred anti-inflammatory agents for use in the present invention are Centella asiatica extracts, (3-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts, and alpha-bisabolol.

Sebo-regulating agents When the composition according to the invention comprises a sebo-regulatory agent such as a 5α-reductase inhibitor, it is advantageously chosen from: retinoids, and in particular retinol; sulfur and sulfur derivatives; zinc salts such as lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, salicylate and / or zinc cysteate; - selenium chloride; vitamin B6 or pyridoxine; the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and extract of cinnamomum zeylanicum marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5®; an extract of Laminaria saccharina marketed in particular by the company SECMA under the trade name Phloroginé; an extract of Spiraea ulmaria sold especially by the company SILAB under the trade name Sebonorminé; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold for example by the company MARUZEN; An extract of Serenoa repens marketed in particular by the company EUROMED; extracts of plants of the genus Silybum; plant extracts containing sapogenins and in particular extracts of Dioscorea rich in diosgenin; and Eugenia caryophyllata extracts containing eugenol and eugenyl glucoside. Zinc salts are preferred for use in the present invention.

Antioxidants The preferred anti-oxidants for use in the present invention are preferably selected from tocopherol and its esters, such as tocopherol acetate; BHT and BHA.

Solar filters Solar filters (or U.V. filters) can be chosen from organic filters, physical filters and their mixtures. The chemical sunscreens that can be used in the composition of the invention can comprise all the UVA and UVB filters that can be used in the cosmetics field.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional active agent (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition. These active agents are generally present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

COMPOSITION A composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic or dermatological application. Preferably, this composition according to the invention is intended for a cosmetic application. It is formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium. The physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user. By physiologically acceptable medium, there is understood a medium compatible with keratinous substances of human beings, in this case the skin. The composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields.

It may especially be in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic, optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel , a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type, or else in the form of a powder, serum, paste or soft stick. It can be of solid consistency, pasty, or liquid more or less fluid. Thus, the composition may comprise all the constituents usually used in the intended application. Mention may in particular be made of water, solvents, oils of mineral, animal and / or vegetable origin, in particular as detailed below, the waxes as described below, in particular pigments, fillers and surfactants. , gelling agents, preservatives.

A composition of the invention may advantageously have a firm and compact grip to the grip. It can be thick on application and then transform, melt and release freshness. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compound according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. . The compositions according to the invention advantageously contain at least one liquid fatty phase. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of emulsions. The compositions according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, or soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsion (E / H / E or H / E / H). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

The compositions of this type may have the form of a care product or make-up of the face and / or the body, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of potted cream or fluid in a tube or in a pump bottle. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging for example from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut or apricot oils, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RICOOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate or isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petrolatum , polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil, natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, eucalyptus, lavandin, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon oils , sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, orange, geraniol, cade and bergamot, - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or alcohol linoleic, - partial fluorinated oils hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-containing oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912, silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, waxes and fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid.

As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as wax of Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japan, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, mineral waxes, eg paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites synthetic waxes, among which are polyethylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, or silicone waxes, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, and oil. hydrogenated jojoba, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name KESTE R WAX K82H "by KOSTER KEUNEN. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). Volatile oils which may be mentioned include, among others, cyclic or linear silicones containing from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, such as cyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, butyltrisiloxane and ethyltrisiloxane. It is also possible to use branched hydrocarbons such as, for example, isododecane as well as volatile perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M and the derivatives perfluoromorpholine, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M. The amount of oily phase present in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.01 to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also contain silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries. The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff chosen, for example, from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials and their mixtures. These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise a filler, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. These fillers can be mineral or organic of any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, or amorphous). Mention may be made of silica, talc, mica, kaolin, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, PTFE powders, PMMA powders, methyl silsesquioxane resin powders (such as Tospearl 145A of GE Silicone), hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles (such as Takemoto Oil and Fat's NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510), barium sulfate, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrochloride. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate; , magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. The composition according to the invention may further contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as sequestering agents; perfumes ; and thickeners and gelling agents.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional adjuvants, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. The percentages are expressed by weight of raw materials. The compounds are, as the case may be, cited in chemical names or in CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). EXAMPLE 1 Face cream COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO COMPOSITION WITNESS THE INVENTION SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.6 0.6 PUR PYRROLIDONE 0.025 0.025 CARBOXYLATE ZINC (OR ZINC PIDOLATE) Zincidone® from UCIB (solabia) 96.5% MA EXTRACT OF SHEET 4 ** BOLDO MIXED (0.2% MA) WATER / BUTYLENE GLYCOL * PERLITE 0.25 0, Optimate® 1430OR from World Minerals MICROSPHERES 0.2 0.2 (COPOLYMER VINYLIDENE CHLORIDE / ACRYLONITRILE / METHYL METHACRYLATE) EXPANDED BY ISOBUTANE Expancel 551 DE 40 D42 from Expancel SALICYLIC ACID IN 2 2 POWDER PHENOXY-2 ETHANOL 0.5 0.5 TETRA-OCTANOATE 2.5 2.5 PENTAERYTHRITYLE Trivent-PE48 of ALZO MIXTURE OF EXTRACTS OF 1 1 ROOTS OF PIMPRENELLE (SANGUISORBA OFFICINALIS / POTERIUM OFFICINALE) / GINGER RHIZOMES (ZINGIBER OFFICINALIS) / BARK OF CANNELIER (CINNAMOMUM) CAS SIA) IN WATER / BUTYLENE GLYCOL Sebustop® UP of CEP (Solabia) ISOPARAFFIN (6-8 MOLES 4 4 OF ISOBUTYLENE) HYDROGENEE Parleam of NOF Corporation COPOLYMER 1 1 ACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE DESODIUM IN REVERSE 40% EMULSION IN POLYSORBATE 80 / I-C16 Simulge1TM600 of seppic 0.8 0.8 CROSS-LINKED SODIUM POLYACRYLATE Cosmedia® SP from Cognis (90% MA + 10% water) 1 1 STARYARY POLY ACRYLATE Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from AIR products and chemicals COPOLYMER 0,5 0,5 SODIUM ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SODIUM SULFONATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE AS POWDER SepinovTM EMT10 seppic COPOLYMER 0.5 0.5 AMPS / STEARYL METHACRYLATE ETHOXYL (25 EO) RETICLED BY TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIACRYLATE (TMPTA) Aristoflex® HMS from Clariant POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE 3.5 3.5 (VISCOSITY: 10 CST) MIXTURE OF POLY 4 4 DIMETHYLSILOXANE RETICLE AND POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE (6 CST) (24/76) SHIN KSG16 ETSU ETHYL ALCOHOL 3 3 ABSOLUTE WATER DENATURE qs 100 qs 100 GLYCEROL 7 7 FATTY ACIDS (ACID 2 2 MAJORITY STEARIC) OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN MONO-DI- PALMITO- 1.5 1.5 SUCROSE STEARATE Tegosoft® PSE 141G from Evonik Goldschmidt * Betapur Alorl07A from BASF ** expressed as raw material, ie 0.2% in MA The application of the composition according to the invention provides a freshness effect not felt when applying the control composition.

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use of a plant extract of the species Peumus boldus as a freshness agent. 2. Use according to claim 1 for concealing or blurring puffiness and / or periocular rings. 3. Use according to claim 1 for homogenizing and / or clarifying the complexion and / or reduce the effect of scrambled complexion. 4. Use of an extract of a plant of the species Peumus boldus as a freshness agent for the preparation of a cosmetic composition. 5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is an extract of leaves of the species Peumus boldus. 6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract comprises a solvent phase comprising at least water and butylene glycol. 7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract is used in a proportion of 0.001% to 20% by weight and preferably 0.1 to 10%, by weight varies from 1 to 10%. by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it. 20 8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said extract is carried out with a complementary active agent selected from essential oils, skin microcirculation agents, temperature modulating agents and mixtures thereof. 9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said extract is carried out with an active agent selected from oily skincare active ingredients, moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates and polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and their mixtures; caffeine; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; solar filters; extracts of algae, mushrooms, other plants, yeasts, bacteria; enzymes; and their mixtures. 10. Use according to claim 9, wherein the skincare active ingredient is selected from desquamating agents and / or anti-microbial and / or anti-inflammatory and / or sebum-regulators and / or antioxidants. 11. Use according to any one of claims 4 to 10, wherein the composition is an emulsion type composition or an aqueous gel type. 12. A cosmetic skin treatment method comprising at least the surface application of said skin of at least one extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11. 13. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising the combination of a plant extract of the species Peumus boldus as defined in any one of Claims 1, 5, 6, 7 with at least one active agent for the care of oily skin. chosen from desquamating agents and / or anti-microbial and / or anti-inflammatory and / or sebum-regulators and / or antioxidants.