FR2917617A1 - Composition, useful for care or make-up of skin or lips, comprises: polyester obtained by reacting polyol, non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, aromatic monocarboxylic acid and polycarboxylic acid; oil; and gelling agent of the oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Transparent cosmetic composition comprises: polyester (0.1-70 wt.%) obtained by reacting polyol containing 3-6 hydroxyl group, non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, aromatic monocarboxylic acid, and polycarboxylic acid containing 2 carboxylic acid group and/or cyclic anhydride of polycarboxylic acid; oil (1-90 wt.%); and gelling agent of the oil (0.01-50 wt.%).

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising

  polymers of the family of polyesters, and their use especially in lipsticks.

  The compositions according to the invention can be applied to supports such as the skin of the face or of the body, the lips and the keratin materials such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.

  The object of the present invention is to propose new transparent cosmetic compositions; this may find a particularly advantageous application in the field of lipsticks.

  The applicant has surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the combination of certain polyesters with gelling agents lead to transparent cosmetic compositions.

  The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising: between 0.1 and 70% by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition, of at least one polyester that can be obtained by reaction of: minus one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups; at least one nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid; at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid, and at least one polycarboxylic acid comprising at least 2 carboxylic groups COOH and / or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid, between 1 and 90% by weight of less an oil, and - 0.01 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition of at least one gelling agent of said oil.

  The composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, a solid or a more or less viscous cream. It can be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a rigid or flexible anhydrous gel. In particular, it is in cast form in a stick or cup and more particularly in the form of an anhydrous rigid gel including anhydrous stick.

  According to another of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition containing: a benzoic acid / isophthalic acid / isostearic acid / pentaerythritol polymer, a benzoic acid / isophthalic acid / stearic acid / pentaerythritol polymer, or a mixture thereof . silica.

  By "hydrocarbon" is meant a radical or a compound formed essentially or even consisting of carbon atoms and hydrogen, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus, and not containing no silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon adjective denotes a radical or a compound consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and oxygen.

  By branched is meant a compound comprising at least one branch containing at least two carbon atoms. The polyisobutenes are not branched within the meaning of the present invention. More generally, the number of branches of a molecule corresponds to the number of side groups containing at least one carbon atom and connected to the main chain of the molecule, the main chain corresponding to the longest

  2 carbon chain of the molecule (see Organic Chemistry, S. H. Pine, 5th Edition, Mc Graw-Hill, Chapter 3).

  POLYESTER (or POLYCONDENSAT) The polyester (hereinafter also referred to as polycondensate) is advantageously obtained by reacting a polyol, a polycarboxylic acid, a nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid, and an aromatic monocarboxylic acid.

  According to one embodiment, the nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid content is between 5 and 80% by weight, preferably between 20 and 70% by weight, for example from 25 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the polycondensate.

  According to another embodiment, the polyesters are advantageously obtained from the reaction of a polyol, a polycarboxylic acid and at least one nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid, said monocarboxylic acid being in a significant amount.

  The polycondensates can be obtained by esterification / polycondensation, according to the methods known to those skilled in the art, of the constituents described below.

  One of the constituents necessary for the preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is a polyol, preferably comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, in particular 3 to 4 hydroxyl groups. It is of course possible to use a mixture of such polyols. Said polyol may in particular be a linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, hydrocarbon-based compound comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, especially 3 to 12 or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and 3 to 6 carbon atoms. hydroxy groups (OH), and may further comprise one or more oxygen atoms intercalated in the chain (ether function). Said polyol is preferably a saturated hydrocarbon compound, linear or branched, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, especially 3 to 12 or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups (OH). It may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture: triols, such as 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane or glycerol; tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, diglycerol or ditrimethylolpropane; pentols such as xylitol; hexols such as sorbitol and mannitol; or dipentaerythritol or triglyceride-40 king.

  Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, pentaerythritol, diglycerol, sorbitol and their mixtures; and most preferably the polyol is a tetraol such as pentaerythritol.

  The polyol, or polyol mixture, preferably represents 10 to 30% by weight, especially 12 to 25% by weight, and more preferably 14 to 22% by weight, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

  Another constituent necessary for the preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid. The nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid may be saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic, comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 28 carbon atoms, and still more preferably 10 to 24 or even 12 to 20 carbon atoms. . It is of course possible to use a mixture of such nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids.

  "Non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid" means a compound of formula RCOOH, in which R is a linear, branched and / or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising 5 to 31 carbon atoms, especially 7 to 27 carbon atoms, and still more preferably 9 to 23 carbon atoms, or even 11 to 19 carbon atoms.

  Preferably, the radical R is saturated. Even better, said radical R is linear or branched, and preferably C5-C31, or even C11-C21.

  In a particular embodiment of the invention, the nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid has a melting point greater than or equal to 25 ° C., especially greater than or equal to 28 ° C. or even 30 ° C. it has indeed been found that when such an acid is used, in particular in large quantities, it is possible, on the one hand, to obtain a good gloss and the holding of said gloss, and on the other hand to reduce the amount of waxes usually present in the composition envisaged.

  Among the nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of: saturated monocarboxylic acids such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 4-ethylpentanoic acid , 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 4,5-dimethylhexanoic acid, 2-heptylheptanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, isononanoic acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, cerotic acid (hexacosanoic); cyclopentanecarboxylic acid, cyclopentaneacetic acid, 3-cyclopentylpropionic acid, cyclohexanecarboxylic acid, cyclohexylacetic acid, 4-cyclohexylbutyric acid; unsaturated but nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids, such as caproleic acid, obtusilic acid, undecylenic acid, dodecylenic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, physétérique acid, tsuzuique acid , palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, petroselinic acid, vaccenic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, gadoleic acid, erucic acid, cetoleic acid, nervonic acid , linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid.

  Among the previously mentioned nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids having a melting point of greater than or equal to 25 ° C., mention may be made, alone or as a mixture: of the saturated monocarboxylic acids: decanoic acid (capric acid), lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, cerotic acid (hexacosanoic acid); from unsaturated but nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids: petroselinic acid, vaccenic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, gadoleic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid.

  Preferably, it is possible to use 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, isoheptanoic acid, isononanoic acid, nonanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof, and even better isostearic acid alone or stearic acid alone.

  Said nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids, is preferably 30 to 80% by weight, especially 40 to 75% by weight, or even 45 to 70% by weight, and more preferably 50 to 65% by weight, of the total weight. of the final polycondensate. Another constituent necessary for the preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is an aromatic monocarboxylic acid. This acid may comprise 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally further substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms, no-50

  4 to 2 to 12 or even 3 to 8 carbon atoms. It is of course possible to use a mixture of such aromatic monocarboxylic acids. By aromatic monocarboxylic acid is meant a compound of formula R'COOH, in which R 'is an aromatic hydrocarbon radical containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular the benzoic and naphthoic radicals. Said radical R 'may also be substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic, comprising 1 to 32 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 12 or even 3 to 8 carbon atoms; and especially chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, terbutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, cyclopentyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, heptyl, isoheptyl, octyl or isooctyl. Among the monocarboxylic aromatic acids that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, p-toluic acid, acid 1 naphthoic acid, 2-naphthoic acid, 4-tert-butyl-benzoic acid, 1-methyl-2-naphthoic acid, 2-isopropyl-1-naphthoic acid. Preferably, it is possible to use benzoic acid, 4-tert-butylbenzoic acid, otoluic acid, m-toluic acid or 1-naphthoic acid, alone or in mixtures; and even better, benzoic acid alone.

  Said aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids, is preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, especially 0.5 to 9.95% by weight, more preferably 1 to 9.5% by weight, or even 1, 5 to 8% by weight, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

  The polyester may be obtained from a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic, nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 10 to 32 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon atoms; and having a melting point greater than or equal to 25 ° C., in particular greater than or equal to 28 ° C. or even 30 ° C. It is of course possible to use a mixture of such nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids.

  It has been found that when using such an acid, in the quantities indicated, it is possible, on the one hand, to obtain a good gloss and the holding of said gloss, and on the other hand to reduce the quantity of waxes. usually present in the composition envisaged. By non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is meant a compound of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon radical comprising 9 to 31 carbon atoms, especially 11 to 27 carbon atoms. and still more preferably 11 to 23 carbon atoms. Preferably, the radical R is saturated. Even better, said radical R is linear or branched, and preferably C11-C21. Among the nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids having a melting point of greater than or equal to 25 ° C., which may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture: among the saturated monocarboxylic acids: decanoic acid (capric), lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, cerotic acid (hexacosanoic acid); from unsaturated but nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids: petroselinic acid, vaccenic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, gadoleic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid. Preferably, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof may be used, and even more preferably stearic acid or behenic acid alone. Said nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 25 ° C., or a mixture of said acids, preferably represents 22 to 80% by weight, in particular 25 to 75% by weight, or even 27 to 70% by weight, and better 28 to 65% by weight, of the total weight of the final polycondensate. The polyester may be obtained from a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic, nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 28 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 20, or even 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and having a melting temperature strictly below 25 ° C., in particular below 20 ° C. or even 15 ° C. It is of course possible to use a mixture of such nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids. By non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is meant a compound of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon-based radical comprising 5 to 31 carbon atoms, especially 7 to 27 carbon atoms. and still more preferably 9 to 19 carbon atoms, or even 11 to 17 carbon atoms. Preferably, the radical R is saturated. Even better, said radical R is linear or branched, and preferably C5-C31. Among the nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids having a melting temperature of less than 25 ° C., which may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture: of the saturated monocarboxylic acids: caproic acid, caprylic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 4-ethylpentanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 4,5-dimethylhexanoic acid, 2-heptylheptanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isostearic acid; - Among the unsaturated but nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids: caproleic acid, obtusilic acid, undecylenic acid, dodecylenic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, physeteric acid, tsuzuic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid.

  Preferably, it is possible to use isooctanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably isostearic acid alone. Said nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid with a melting temperature of less than 25 ° C., or the mixture of said acids, preferably represents 0.1 to 35% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 32% by weight, or even 1 to 30% by weight, and preferably 2 to 28% by weight, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

  According to one embodiment, the polyester is obtained from a nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid having a melting point greater than or equal to 25 ° C. and from 30 ° C. and from a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid having a temperature In this embodiment, preferably, the total amount of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids, to have those having a melting point greater than 25 ° C. and those having a melting temperature below 25 ° C., is advantageously between 30 and 80% by weight, especially between 40 and 70% by weight, or even between 45 and 65% by weight, and better still between 50 and 60% by weight, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

  Another constituent necessary for the preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is a polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and / or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxylic groups COOH, especially 2 to 4 COOH groups; and / or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid. It is of course possible to use a mixture of such polycarboxylic acids and / or anhydrides.

  Said polycarboxylic acid may in particular be chosen from linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated or even aromatic polycarboxylic acids, comprising 3 to 50, in particular 3 to 40, carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 36 or even 3 at 18, and more preferably 4 to 12 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms; Said acid comprises at least two carboxylic groups COOH, preferably from 2 to 4 COOH groups.

  Preferably, said polycarboxylic acid is aliphatic and comprises 3 to 36 carbon atoms, especially 3 to 18 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 12 carbon atoms; or said polycarboxylic acid is aromatic and comprises 8 to 12 carbon atoms. It preferably comprises 2 to 4 COOH groups. The cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid may in particular correspond to one of the following formulas: ABAB 10 in which the groups A and B are, independently of one another,: a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic, or aromatic, carbon radical; comprising 1 to 16 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 8 carbon atoms, especially methyl or ethyl; Or - A and B taken together form a ring comprising in total 5 to 7, in particular 6 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic. Preferably, A and B represent a hydrogen atom or together form an aromatic ring comprising a total of 6 carbon atoms.

  Among the polycarboxylic acids or their anhydrides which may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture: dicarboxylic acids such as decanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-1,4-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, hexahydrophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, fatty acid dimers (especially C36) such as the products sold under the names Pripol 1006, 1009, 1013 and 1017, by Uniqema; tricarboxylic acids such as cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, 1,2,3-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid; tetracarboxylic acids such as butanetetracarboxylic acid and pyromelic acid; cyclic anhydrides of these acids, especially phthalic anhydride, trimellitic anhydride, maleic anhydride and succinic anhydride.

  Preferably, it is possible to use adipic acid, phthalic anhydride and / or isophthalic acid, and even better isophthalic acid alone.

  Said polycarboxylic acid and / or its cyclic anhydride is preferably 5 to 40% by weight, especially 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 14 to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final polycondensate. The polycondensate may further comprise hydroxyl (OH) and / or carboxylic (COOH) functional silicone. It can comprise 1 to 3 hydroxyl and / or carboxylic functions, and preferably comprises two hydroxyl functions or two carboxylic functions. 50 These functions can be located at the end of the chain or in the chain, but

  7 at the end of the line. Silicones having a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of between 300 and 20000, in particular 400 and 10,000, or even 800 and 4000, are preferably employed. This silicone may be of the formula: ## STR2 ## in which: W and W 'are, independently of one another, OH or COOH; preferably W = W '; p and q are, independently of one another, equal to 0 or 1, R and R 'are, independently of one another, a divalent carbon radical, in particular hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic, linear, branched and / or cyclic; comprising 1 to 12 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and optionally further comprising 1 or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and N, especially O (ether); in particular, R and / or R 'may be of the formula - (CH 2) a - with a = 1-12, and especially methylene, ethylene, propylene or phenylene; or of formula û [(CH2) xO] Z with x = 1, 2 or 3 and z = 1-10; in particular x = 2 or 3 and z = 1-4; and better x = 3 and z = 1. - R1 to R6 are, independently of one another, a linear carbon radical, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic; comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 12 carbon atoms; preferably, R1 to R6 are saturated or aromatic, and may especially be chosen from alkyl radicals, in particular the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and octadecyl radicals, and the radicals cycloalkyls, in particular the cyclohexyl radical, aryl radicals, in particular phenyl and naphthyl radicals, arylalkyl radicals, in particular benzyl and phenylethyl radicals, as well as tolyl and xylyl radicals. m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and 140, and are such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is between 300 and 20,000, in particular between 400 and and 10,000 or even between 800 and 4000.

  Mention may in particular be made of α,--diol or α,--dicarboxylic polyalkylsiloxanes, and in particular α, β-diol polydimethylsiloxanes and α,--dicarboxylic polydimethylsiloxanes; α,--diol or α,--dicarboxylic polyarylsiloxanes and in particular α,--diol or α,--dicarboxylic polyphenylsiloxanes; silanol-functional polyarylsiloxanes such as polyphenylsiloxane; silanol-functional polyalkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane; silanol-functional polyaryl / alkylsiloxanes such as polyphenyl / methylsiloxane or else polyphenyl / propylsiloxane. In particular, the α, β-diol polydimethylsiloxanes having a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of between 400 and 10,000, even between 500 and 5,000, and especially between 800 and 4000, will be used.

  When present, said silicone may preferably represent 0.1 to 15% by weight, especially 1 to 10% by weight, or even 2 to 8% by weight, of the weight of the polycondensate.

  In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is present in a molar amount less than or equal to that of the nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid; in particular the ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.08 and 0.70, in particular between 0.10 and 0.60, in particular between 0.12 and 0.40. It has been found that this makes it possible in particular to obtain a polymer that is advantageously soluble in the oily media generally used to formulate cosmetic compositions such as lipsticks or foundations; Moreover, the film obtained

  It has adequate rigidity and flexibility for use in this type of formulation, yet has the brilliance and glossiness as desired.

  According to one embodiment, the polyester is obtainable by reaction of: at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups; at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms; at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms; at least one polycarboxylic acid comprising at least 2 carboxylic groups COOH and / or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid;

  For example, the polyester is selected from benzoic acid / isophthalic acid / isostearic acid / pentaerythritol polymers, benzoic acid / isophthalic acid / stearic acid / pentaerythritol polymers, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid does not comprise a free OH group.

  According to one embodiment, the polycondensate may be obtained by reacting: from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups; from 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms; from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally additionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated linear, branched and / or cyclic, which contain 1 to 32 carbon atoms; from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and / or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxylic groups COOH, in particular 2 at 4 COOH groups; and / or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid.

  According to one embodiment, said polycondensate can be obtained by reacting - from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups; from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms; from 10 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally further substituted with 1 to 3 linear or saturated, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, branched and / or cyclic, which contain 1 to 32 carbon atoms; from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the poidstotal of the polycondensate, of at least one polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and / or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxylic groups COOH, in particular 2 to 4 COOH groups; and / or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid. Preferably, the composition comprises a polycondensate as defined above, such as

  9 that the ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is between 0.08 and 0.70.

  Preferably, the composition comprises a polycondensate as defined above, provided that when the polycondensate comprises 10% by weight of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally further substituted with 1 to 3 radicals. saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic alkyls, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms; then the ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid is between 0.08 and 0.70.

  Preferably, the polycondensate can be obtained by reacting: at least one polyol chosen from, alone or as a mixture, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane and glycerol; pentaerythritol, erythritol, diglycerol, ditrimethylolpropane; xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, dipentaerythritol and / or triglycerol; preferably present in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, especially 12 to 25% by weight, and more preferably 14 to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate; at least one nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid chosen from, alone or in mixture, caproic acid, caprylic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 4-ethylpentanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 4,5-dimethylhexanoic acid, 2-heptylheptanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, isononanoic acid , lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, cerotic acid (hexacosanoic acid) ; cyclopentanecarboxylic acid, cyclopentaneacetic acid, 3-cyclopentylpropionic acid, cyclohexanecarboxylic acid, cyclohexylacetic acid, 4-cyclohexylbutyric acid; preferably present in an amount of 30 to 80% by weight, especially 40 to 75% by weight, and more preferably 45 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate; at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid chosen from, alone or as a mixture, benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, p-toluic acid, 1-naphthoic acid, 2-naphthoic acid, 4-tert-butyl benzoic acid, 1-methyl-2-naphthoic acid, 2-isopropyl-1-naphthoic acid; preferably present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, especially 1 to 9.5% by weight, or even 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate; and at least one polycarboxylic acid or one of its anhydrides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, decanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-1,4-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid; cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, 1,2,3-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid; butanetetracarboxylic acid, pyromellitic acid, phthalic anhydride, trimellitic anhydride, maleic anhydride and succinic anhydride; preferably present in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight, especially 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 14 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate. According to another embodiment, the polycondensate can be obtained by reacting: from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups;

  From 22 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic, nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 10 to 32 carbon atoms, and having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 25 C; from 0.1 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms, and having a melting temperature strictly below 25 C; from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally additionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic, which contain 1 to 32 carbon atoms; from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and / or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxylic groups COOH, in particular 2 at 4 COOH groups; and / or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid.

  Preferably, the polycondensate is obtainable by reaction of: at least one polyol chosen from, alone or as a mixture, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and their mixtures, and even better pentaerythritol alone; present in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, especially 12 to 25% by weight, and more preferably 14 to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate; at least one nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid chosen from, alone or in a mixture, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, isononanoic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof, and even better isostearic acid alone or stearic acid alone; present in an amount of 30 to 80% by weight, especially 40 to 75% by weight, and more preferably 45 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate; at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid chosen from, alone or as a mixture, benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, 1-naphthoic acid, and even more preferably benzoic acid; alone; present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, especially 1 to 9.5% by weight, or even 1.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate; and at least one polycarboxylic acid or one of its anhydrides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, phthalic anhydride and isophthalic acid, and even better isophthalic acid alone; present in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight, especially 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 14 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate.

  Preferably, the polycondensate has: an acid number, expressed as mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polycondensate, greater than or equal to 1; in particular between 2 and 30, and even better between 2.5 and 15; and / or - a hydroxyl number expressed in mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polycondensate, greater than or equal to 40; in particular between 40 and 120, and even better between 45 and 80. These acid and hydroxyl numbers can be easily determined by those skilled in the art by the usual analytical methods.

  Preferably, the polycondensate has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of between 1500 and 300,000, or even between 2000 and 200,000, and especially between 3,000 and 100,000. The average molecular weight can be determined by gel permeation chromatography. or by light scattering, depending on the solubility of the polymer under consideration.

  Preferably, the polycondensate has a viscosity, measured at 110 ° C., of between 20 and 4000 mPa.s, in particular between 30 and 3500 mPa.s, even between 40 and 3000 mPa.s and even more preferably between 50 and 2500 mPa. s. This viscosity is measured in the manner described before the examples.

  Moreover, the polycondensate is advantageously soluble in the oily cosmetic media usually employed, and in particular in vegetable oils, alkanes, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, silicone oils, and more particularly in environments comprising the isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, phenyl trimethicone, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate and / or D5 (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane).

  By soluble is meant that the polymer forms a clear solution in at least one solvent selected from isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol and C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, at least 50% by weight, at 70 C. Some compounds even have a particularly advantageous solubility in certain fields of application, namely a solubility in at least one of the solvents mentioned above, at least 50% by weight at 25 C.

  The polycondensate may be prepared by the esterification / polycondensation processes usually employed by those skilled in the art. By way of illustration, a general method of preparation consists in: - mixing the polyol and the aromatic and nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids, - heating the mixture under an inert atmosphere, first up to the melting point (generally 100.degree. 130 C) and then at a temperature between 150 and 220 C until complete consumption of the monocarboxylic acids (reached when the acid number is less than or equal to 1), preferably by distilling as and when the formed, and then - optionally cooling the mixture to a temperature between 90 and 150 C, - to add the polycarboxylic acid and / or the cyclic anhydride, and optionally the silicone with hydroxyl or carboxyl functions, in one go or sequentially, and then - to heat again at a temperature of less than or equal to 220 ° C., in particular between 170 ° C. and 220 ° C., preferably continuing to remove the water formed, until obtaining the required characteristics in terms of acid number, viscosity, hydroxyl number and solubility. It is possible to add conventional esterification catalysts, for example of the sulphonic acid type (especially at a concentration by weight of between 1 and 10%) or titanate type (especially at a weight concentration of between 5 and 100 ppm). It is also possible to carry out the reaction, in whole or in part, in an inert solvent such as xylene and / or under reduced pressure, to facilitate the removal of water. Advantageously, no catalyst or solvent is used.

  Said preparation process may further comprise a step of adding at least one antioxidant agent to the reaction medium, in particular at a concentration by weight of between 0.01 and 1%, relative to the total weight of monomers, so as to limit any damage caused by prolonged heating.

  The antioxidant may be of primary or secondary type, and may be selected from hindered phenols, aromatic secondary amines, organophosphorus compounds, sulfur compounds, lactones, acrylated bisphenols; and their mixtures. Among the particularly preferred antioxidants, mention may be made especially of BHT,

12 BHA, TBHQ, 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6, tris (3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl) -benzene, 3,5-octadecyl, di-tert-butyl- 4-hydroxycinnamate, tetrakis-methylene-3- (3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-phenyl) propionate methane, octadecyl-3- (3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl) propionate 2 , 5-di-tert-butyl hydroquinone, 2,2-methyl-bis- (4-methyl-6-tertbutyl phenol), 2,2-methylene-bis (4-ethyl-6-tertbutyl phenol), 4 , 4-butylidene-bis (6-tert-butyl-m-cresol), N, N-hexamethylene bis (3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamamide), pentaerythritol tetrakis (3- (3,5-di- tertbutyl-4-hydroxyphenyl) propionate) especially that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX 1010; octadecyl 3- (3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxphenyl) propionate, especially that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX 1076; 1,3,5-tris (3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6 (1H, 3H, 5H) trione, especially that marketed by Mayzo of Norcross , Ga under the name BNX 3114; di (stearyl) pentaerythritol diphosphite, tris (2,4-ditertbutylphenyl) phosphite, especially that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGAFOS 168; dilauryl thiodipropionate, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX PS800; bis (2,4-di-tertbutyl) pentaerythritol diphosphite, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGAFOS 126; bis (2,4-bis) [2-phenylpropan-2-yl] phenyl) pentaerythritol diphosphite, triphenylphosphite, (2,4-ditertbutylphenyl) pentaerythritol diphosphite, especially that marketed by GE Specialty Chemicals under the name ULTRANOX 626; tris (nonylphenyl) phosphite, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGAFOS TNPP; the 1: 1 mixture of N, N-hexamethylenebis (3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-hydrocinnamamide) and of tris (2,4-ditertbutylphenyl) phosphate, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox B 1171; tetrakis (2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl) phosphite, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGAFOS P-EPQ; distearyl thiodipropionate, especially that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX PS802; 2,4-bis (octylthiomethyl) o-cresol, especially that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX 1520; 4,6-bis (dodecylthiomethyl) o-cresol including that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX 1726.

  The amount of polycondensate present in the compositions depends, of course, on the type of composition and the desired properties and can vary within a very wide range, generally between 0.1 and 70% by weight, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight, especially between 10 and 45% by weight, or even between 20 and 40% by weight, and better still between 25 and 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.

  TRANSLUCIDITY AND TRANSPARENCY The cosmetic compositions of the invention have, on the one hand, the transparency or the translucency of their deposit on a makeup support and, on the other hand, their own translucent or transparent appearance before application, called translucent or transparent in the pot or else, translucent or transparent in the mass.

  Within the meaning of the invention, this property of transparency or translucency in the mass means that a layer of the composition of a given thickness, passes part of the visible light. If this part of the visible light is scattered, the composition will be defined as a translucent mass composition, and if, on the contrary, it is not diffused, then the composition will be defined as a transparent composition in the mass.

  More precisely, the transparency or translucency property of the composition according to the invention is determined in the following way: the composition to be tested is cast in a Volga 30mL jar, the composition is allowed to cool (for 24 hours at room temperature)

  13 and placed under a white sheet on which is traced in black felt a cross about 2 mm thick. If the cross is visible to the naked eye in daylight at an observation distance of 40 cm, the composition is transparent or translucent.

  However, the transparent or translucent nature of a cosmetic composition, for example stick, and moreover, the deposit obtained from it, is extremely difficult to predict. Thus, it is absolutely not possible to predict in advance which particular component and in what proportion, will achieve transparency or translucency of the composition and, a fortiori, that of the deposit.

  The formulation of transparent or translucent cosmetic compositions is therefore completely random and can not be deduced, from existing formulations or properties, for example optical properties, compounds entering these compositions. GELLING

  The composition of the invention also contains at least one agent for the oil of the composition. The gelling agent may increase the viscosity of the organic liquid medium and may lead to a solid or flowable composition upon introduction into said organic liquid medium.

  The gelling agent may be chosen from gelling agents in polymeric form and gelling agents in mineral form. In one embodiment, the gelling agent is not soluble in an aqueous phase or in water.

  Gelling agents which gell by chemical crosslinking According to one embodiment, crosslinked elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes having a three-dimensional structure, such as MQ silicone resins, polyalkylsquioxanes, in particular polymethylsesquioxanes and resins crosslinked via hydrosilylation, are preferred. These silicone resins may carry hydrophilic groups, such as polyoxyethylene or copoly (oxyethylene / oxypropylene). As polyorganosiloxanes which can be used in the invention, crosslinked elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes described in BD-A-0 295 886, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. According to this application, they are obtained by an addition reaction and a crosslinking, in the presence of a platinum-type catalyst, of at least: - (a) a polyorganosiloxane having at least two lower C 2 -C 6 alkenyl groups per molecule; and - (b) a polyorganosiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to one silicon atom per molecule. It is also possible to use the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 5,266,321, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. According to this patent, they are chosen in particular from: - i) polyorganosiloxanes comprising R2SiO and RSiO1,5 units and optionally R3SiOo, 5 and / or SiO2 units, in which the radicals R, independently of one another, are chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl such as methyl, ethyl or propyl, an aryl such as phenyl or tolyl, an unsaturated aliphatic group such as vinyl, the weight ratio of R2SiO units to RSiO1,5 units ranging from 1/1 to 30/1; ii) polyorganosiloxanes which are insoluble and swellable in the silicone oil, obtained by adding a polyorganohydrogensiloxane (1) and a polyorganosiloxane (2) having unsaturated aliphatic groups so that the amount of hydro - 25

  The gene or unsaturated aliphatic groups in (1) and (2) respectively have 1 to 20 mol% when the polyorganosiloxane is noncyclic and 1 to 50 mol% when the polyorganosiloxane is cyclic. Optionally, these polyorganosiloxanes may comprise from 1 to 40 oxyalkylene groups, such as oxypropylene and / or oxyethylene groups.

  Examples of polyorganosiloxanes that may be used according to the invention include those marketed or manufactured under the names KSG6 from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow Corning, Gransil from Grant Industries (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) or those sold as preconstituted gels (KSG15, KSG17, KSG16, KSG18 and KSG21 from Shin-Etsu, Gransil SR 5CYC gel, Gransil SR DMF gel, Gransil SR DC556 gel, SF 1204 and JK 113 of General Electric A mixture of these commercial products can also be used.

  Gelling agents that gel through physical crosslinking Gelling agents that gel through physical crosslinking, particularly via molecular agitation, hydrogen interactions, or di-polar interactions as well as liposoluble polymers having liquid crystal moieties are preferred.

  Gelling agents that gel through molecular agitation are polymers having high molecular weights, preferably greater than 500,000, such as silicone gums.

  The silicone gum can answer the formula:

  Wherein R7, R8, R8 and R12 are the same or different, and each is selected from the group consisting of R7, R8, R8, R8 and R12. the alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R 9 and R 10 are identical or different, and each is chosen from alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and aryl radicals, X is chosen from alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical and a vinyl radical, n and p are chosen so as to give the silicone gum a viscosity greater than 100 000 mPa.s, such that greater than 500 000 mPa.s. In general, n and p can each take values from 0 to 5000, such as from 0 to 3000.

  Among the silicone gums which can be used as gelling agents according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which: the substituents R 7 to R 12 and X represent a methyl group, p = 0 and n = 2700, such as the product marketed or manufactured under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, - the substituents R7 to R12 and X represent a methyl group, p = 0 and n = 45 2300, such as the product marketed or manufactured under the name AK 500 000 by Wacker,

  The substituents R7 to R12 represent a methyl group, the substituent X represents a hydroxyl group, p = 0 and n = 2700, in the form of a 13% solution in cyclopentasiloxane, such as the product marketed or manufactured under the denomination Q2-1401 by Dow Corning, - the substituents R7 to R12 represent a methyl group, the substituent X represents a hydroxyl group, p = 0 and n = 2700, in the form of a 13% solution in polydimethylsiloxane, such as the product marketed or manufactured under the name Q2-1403 by the company Dow Corning, and - the substituents R7, R8, R11, R12 and X represent a methyl group and the substituents R9 and R10 represent an aryl group, so that the molecular weight of the gum is approximately 600,000, for example the product marketed or manufactured under the name 761 by Rhône-Poulenc (Rhodia Chimie).

  Gelling agents which gel the organic liquid medium via hydrogen interactions are preferably selected from the group consisting of: - aminosilicone polymers having triazinyl groups or pyrimidinyl groups bonded to aminosilicone amino groups, as described in the patent application EP 0 751 170, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, the non-silicone polyamides, the ends of which carry ester or triamide functions, such as the compounds described in the patents and the patent applications US 5,783,657, US 6,268,466, WO 01/95871, WO 00/40216, US 2002/0035237 and EP 1 068 856, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, polyurethanes, such as the compounds described in patent applications DE 100 22 247 and FR 2 814 365, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, and the (meth) acrylic and / or vinyl polymers ortant side groups that can create mutual hydrogen interactions, such as the compounds described in the patent application WO 93/01797, the disclosure of which is incorporated in this text by reference.

  The gelling agents may also be chosen from the group consisting of: copolymers such as polystyrene-silicone or polyethylene-silicone, described in patents US 6,225,390, US 6,160,054, US 6,174,968 and US 6,225,390 , the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference, - the copolymers comprising a silicone sequence and another sequence or graft which is polyvinyl or poly (meth) acrylic, such as those described in patents US 5,468,477 and US 5,725 882, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference. Gelling agents such as liposoluble polymers having liquid crystal groups are also preferred according to the present invention, especially liposoluble polymers whose skeleton is silicone, vinyl and / or (meth) ), which have side liquid crystal groups, in particular the compounds described in the patent application FR 2 816 503, of which the disclosure is incorporated in this text by reference.

  In another embodiment, the gelling agent may be in mineral form.

  The gelling agent may be a modified clay. Modified clays that may be used include ammonium chloride-modified hectorites of a C10-C22 fatty acid, such as a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, also known as quaternium-18 bentonite, such as the products marketed or manufactured under the names Bentone 34 by Rheox, Claytone XL, Claytone 34 and Claytone 40 sold or manufactured by Southern Clay,

  16 modified clays known as benzalkonium and quaternium-18 bentonites and marketed or manufactured under the names Claytone HT, Claytone GR and Claytone PS by Southern Clay, clays modified with stearyldimethylbenzoylammonium chloride, known as steralkonium, such as the products marketed or manufactured under the names Claytone APA and Claytone AF by Southern Clay, and Baragel 24 sold or manufactured by Rheox.

  Other inorganic gelling agents that can be used in the invention include silica, such as fumed silica. The fumed silica may have a particle size that may be nanometric or micrometric, for example from about 5 nm to 200 nm.

  The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible to obtain hydrophilic silicas having a large number of silanol groups on their surface. The silanol groups can be replaced, for example, by hydrophobic groups: this then gives a hydrophobic silica. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by the treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silicas thus treated are known as silica silylate according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). They are marketed or manufactured, for example, under the references Aerosil R812 by Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-530 by Cabot; - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by the treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethyldisiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas ainsitraitées are known as silica dimethylsilylate according to the CTFA (heme edition, 1995). They are marketed or manufactured, for example, under the references Aerosil R972 and Aerosil R974 by Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610 and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 by Cabot; groups derived from the reaction of fumed silica with silane alkoxides or siloxanes. These treated silicas are, for example, the products marketed or manufactured under the reference Aerosil R805 by Degussa.

  According to the invention, a hydrophobic silica, such as fumed silica, can be used as a gelling agent.

  The gelling agent may be used, for example, in concentrations ranging from 0.05% to 35% of the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.5% to 20% or from 1% to 10%.

  OIL The composition may contain an oil, especially a non-volatile oil. The nonvolatile oil may represent 1 to 90% by weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 75% by weight, in particular from 10 to 60% by weight, or even 25 to 55% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. The non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or their mixtures.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

  The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate, and lauroyl glutamate / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or rare. - saturated, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley quinoa, rye, carmelme, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane and their mixtures, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene, synthetic esters such as oils; of the formula RICOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R 2 is The esters may in particular be chosen from esters, in particular of fatty acids such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or palmitate. 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as the lactate d isostearyl, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, octanoate of cetyl, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl-2-hexylate and mixtures thereof, benzoates of C12-C15 alcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7, sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in the application FR0302809 filed March 6, 2003, the contents of which are incorporated in this application by reference. at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol,

  18 isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their derivatives. mixtures, and - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name CETIOL CC, by COGNIS.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition may be non-volatile poly-dimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes containing pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicones with viscosities less than or equal to 100 cSt, and their mixtures. According to another mode of implementation, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula R R R

  Wherein R 1 represents R 3 independently of each other a methyl or a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above can be used. Examples which may be mentioned are mixtures of organopolysiloxane triphenyl, tetra- or pentahenylated. According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula Ph Ph Ph Me Si Si O Si O Si Me

  Ph Me Ph in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used.

COLORING MATERIAL

  The composition according to the invention may contain a dyestuff, in a proportion of 0.5 to 50% dyestuff, preferably from 2 to 40% and better still from 5 to 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The dyestuff may be any inorganic and / or organic compound, having an absorption between 350 and 700 nm, or capable of generating an optical effect such as the reflection of incident light or interferences for example.

  The dyestuffs useful in the present invention are selected from all organic and / or inorganic pigments known in the art, especially those which are suitable for use in the art.

  19 described in Kirk-Othmer's encyclopedia of chemical technology and Ullmann's encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.

  Examples of mineral dyestuffs that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, surface treated or untreated, zinc oxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, iron or chromium oxides, manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. For example, the following mineral pigments can be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 mixed with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

  Examples of organic dyestuffs that may be mentioned include nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

  In particular, the dyestuffs may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index as Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives, phenolic as described in patent FR 2 679 771. The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in the EP patent 1,184,426 These pigmen Composite ts may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

  The dyestuffs may be chosen from dyes, lacquers or pigments.

  The dyes are, for example, fat-soluble dyes, although water-soluble dyes can be used. The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sou-dan red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, 13-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C orange 5, yellow quinoline, annatto. They may represent from 0 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%. The water-soluble dyes include beetroot juice, methylene blue and may represent from 0.1 to 6% by weight of the composition (if present).

  By lacquer is meant dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the resulting assembly remaining insoluble in use. The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine.

  As examples of lacquers, mention may be made of the products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410). ), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45,425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45,430), D & C Red 7 (Cl 15,850: 1), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15,510), D & C Red. C Red 33 (Cl 17,200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19,140), D & C under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570,

  Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D & C Green (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 10 (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).

  The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles intended to color and / or opacify the composition. The pigments according to the invention may for example be chosen from white or colored pigments, special effect pigments such as pearlescent agents, reflective pigments or interference pigments.

  As pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, and lacquers of barium, strontium, calcium (D & C Red N 7), aluminum.

  The nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably at a rate of the order of 1 to 15%. Among the nacres that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride such as colored titanium mica.

  The pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0.05 to 30% by weight of the final composition, and preferably in a proportion of 2 to 20%.

  The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention provides a rich color palette, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic or interferential effects.

  Special effect pigments are pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain nuance, a certain vivacity and a certain clarity) which is non-uniform and changeable according to the conditions of observation (light, temperature , observation angles ...). They are therefore opposed to white or colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or conventional transparent tint.

  By way of examples of special effect pigments, mention may be made of white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides. , mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. As nacreous pigments, mention may be made of Cellini nacres marketed by Engelhard (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3). Non-substrate-bound interference pigments such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interferential holographic flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek) can also be mentioned. Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are daylight fluorescent or UV fluorescent, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, and thermochromic pigments.

  The composition advantageously contains goniochromatic pigments, for example interferential multilayer pigments, and / or reflective pigments. These two types of pigments are described in the application FR0209246 whose contents are incorporated by reference in the present application.

  The composition may contain reflecting pigments, which may or may not be goniochromatic, interferential or non-interfering. Their size is compatible with the manifestation of a specular reflection of visible light (400-700 nm), of sufficient intensity, given the average brightness of the composition, to create a highlight point. This size is likely to vary according to the chemical nature of the particles, their shape and their specular reflection power of visible light. The reflective particles will preferably have a size of at least 10 μm, for example from about 20 μm to about 50 μm. By dimension, we denote the dimension given by the statistical size distribution to half of the population, called D50. The size of the reflective particles may depend on their surface state. The more reflective this is, the smaller the dimension can be, a priori, and vice versa.

  Reflective particles that can be used in the invention, with a metallic or white sheen, can for example reflect light in all visible components without significantly absorbing one or more wavelengths. The spectral reflectance of these reflective particles may for example be greater than 70% in the range 400-700 nm, and more preferably at least 80%, even 90% or 95%.

  The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a reflective material, which coats a substrate. The substrate may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates and synthetic mica, this list not being limiting. The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metal compound. The layer of metal or metal compound may or may not completely coat the substrate and the metal layer may be at least partially covered by a layer of another material, for example a transparent material. It may be preferable that the metal or metal compound layer coats all, directly or indirectly, that is to say with the interposition of at least one intermediate layer, metallic or otherwise, the substrate.

  The metal may be chosen for example from Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their alloys. Ag, Au, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, Cu and their alloys (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. In the case in particular of particles coated with silver or gold substrate, the metal layer may be present at a content representing for example from 0.1 to 50% of the total weight of the particles, or even between 1 and 20%. Particles of glass coated with a metal layer are described in particular in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710. Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company. The reflective particles, whatever their shape, can also be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal compound, in particular a metal oxide, chosen for example from among titanium oxides, especially TiO2, iron including Fe2O3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following compounds: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2 and mixtures thereof

  22 or alloys. By way of example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or glass particles coated with either brown iron oxide or titanium oxide, tin oxide or a mixture thereof such as those sold under the trade name REFLECKS by ENGELHARD. Also suitable for the invention are the pigments of the METASHINE 1080R range marketed by NIPPON SHEET GLASS CO. LTD. These pigments, more particularly described in the patent application JP 2001-11340, are C-GLASS glass flakes comprising 65 to 72% SiO 2, coated with a titanium oxide layer of rutile type (TiO 2). These glass flakes have an average thickness of 1 micron and an average size of 80 microns is a ratio average size / average thickness of 80. They have blue, green, yellow or silver-tone reflections depending on the thickness of the layer of TiO2.

  It is also possible to mention particles having a size of between 80 and 100 μm, comprising a synthetic mica substrate (fluorophlogopite) coated with titanium dioxide representing 12% of the total weight of the particle, sold under the name PROMINENCE by the company NIHON KOKEN. The reflective particles may also be chosen from particles formed from a stack of at least two layers with different refractive indices. These layers may be polymeric or metallic in nature and in particular include at least one polymeric layer. Such particles are described in particular in WO 99/36477, US Pat. No. 6,299,979 and US Pat. No. 6,387,498. By way of illustration of the materials that can constitute the different layers of the multilayer structure, mention may be made of this list not being exhaustive: polyethylene naphthalate (PEN) and its isomers, polyalkylene terephthalates, and polyimides. Reflective particles comprising a stack of at least two polymer layers are sold by the company 3M under the name MIRROR GLITTER. These particles comprise 2,6-PEN and polymethyl methacrylate layers in a weight ratio of 80/20. Such particles are described in US Patent 5,825,643.

  The composition may contain one or more goniochromatic pigments. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

  In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer, independently or not of the other layer (s) being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry at the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that may be used in are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by Dupont de Nemours Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2 Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by BASF MoS2 / SiO2 / mica -oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments with a silica / oxide structure

  23 titanium / tin oxide marketed under the name Xirona Magic by the company MERCK, silica structural pigments / brown iron oxide marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and pigments structure silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 / SiO.sub.2 / Al.sub.2 / SiO.sub.2 / Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO.sub.2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. It is also possible to use goniochromatic coloring agents having a multilayer structure comprising an alternation of polymeric layers, for example of the polyethylene naphthalate and polyethylene terephthalate type. Such agents are described in particular in WO-A-96/19347 and WO-A-99/36478.

  Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER. The liquid crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company Chenix as well as those marketed under the name Helicone HC by the company Wacker.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in any acceptable and customary form for a cosmetic composition.

  Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, of the application envisaged for the composition. The compositions according to the invention can be used for the care or makeup of keratin materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly for makeup. lips, eyelashes and / or face. They can therefore be in the form of a care product and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, leather hair or nails; a suntan or self-tanning product; a hair product including coloring, conditioning and / or hair care; they are advantageously in the form of mascara, lipstick, lip gloss (gloss), blush or eyelid, foundation.

  The subject of the invention is also the use of a polycondensate in particular in the pro-portions and the chemical constitution described above for the makeup of the lips in order to obtain a transparent texture.

  The invention further relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails, the hair and / or the eyelashes, comprising the application on the said materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above. This process according to the invention makes it possible in particular to care or make up the lips, by applying a composition of lipstick or lip gloss (gloss) according to the invention.

  The invention also relates to the use of the compositions described above for lip makeup.

  The present invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: - a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure member; and a composition as described previously disposed inside said compartment.

  The container can be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case, a box, a bag or a case.

  The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and an articulated cap. on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve.

  The container may be associated with an applicator, particularly in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular from molding. Such combs are described, for example, in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a brush. a block of foam or elastomer, a felt, or a spatula. The applicator may be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure member, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example patent FR 2 761 959.

  The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the product may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538.

  The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the neck-range between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snapping, clamping, welding, gluing, or by magnetic attraction. By "latching" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

  The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.

  Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

  The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask. 24

  The container may comprise means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which excess pressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. . Alternatively, especially when the product is in the form of a stick, the latter can be driven by a piston mechanism. Still in the case of a stick, in particular makeup product (lipstick, foundation, etc.), the container may comprise a mechanism, including rack, or with a threaded rod, or with a helical ramp, and able to move a stick towards said opening. Such a mechanism is described, for example, in patent FR 2 806 273 or in patent FR 2 775 566. Such a mechanism for a liquid product is described in patent FR 2 727 609.

  The container may consist of a housing with a bottom defining at least one housing containing the composition, and a cover, in particular articulated on the bottom, and adapted to cover at least part of said bottom. Such a housing is described, for example, in claim WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042.

  The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.

  The composition may be at atmospheric pressure inside the container (at ambient temperature) or pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant (aerosol). In the latter case, the container is equipped with a valve (of the type used for aerosols).

  The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Method of measuring viscosity

  The viscosity at 80 ° C. or at 110 ° C. of the polymer is measured using a planar cone viscometer of the BROOKFIELD CAP 1000+ type. The adapted cone-plane is determined by the person skilled in the art, on the basis of his knowledge; in particular: - between 50 and 500 mPa.s, one can use a cone 02 - between 500 and 1000 mPa.s: cone 03 40 - between 1000 and 4000 mPa.s: cone 05 - between 4000 and 10000 mPa.s: cone 06

  Example 1 Synthesis of pentaerythritol benzoate / isophthalate / isostearate 45. In a reactor equipped with mechanical stirring, an inlet of argon and a distillation system, 20 g of benzoic acid, 280 g of isostearic acid and 100 g of pentaerythritol, and is then gradually heated, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130 C to obtain a homogeneous solution. The temperature is then gradually raised to 180 ° C and held for about 2 hours. The temperature is again raised to 220 ° C and maintained until an acid number of 1 or less is reached, which takes about 11 hours. It is cooled to a temperature of between 100 and 130 ° C., then 100 g of isophthalic acid are introduced and the mixture is heated again gradually to 220 ° C. for approximately 11 hours.

  405 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate / isophthalate / isostearate polycondensate are thus obtained in the form of a very thick oil.

  The polycondensate has the following characteristics: - Soluble at 50% by weight, at 25 ° C., in the Parleam - Acid number = 3.7 - Hydroxyl value = 72 - Mw = 59400 - n11ooc = 1510 mPa.s - ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid: 0.16.

  EXAMPLE 2 Synthesis of pentaerythritol benzoate / isophthalate / isostearate In a reactor equipped with mechanical stirring, an inlet of argon and a distillation system, 35 g of benzoic acid, 270 g of acid are charged. isostearic and 80 g of pentaerythritol and then gradually heated, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130 C to obtain a homogeneous solution. The temperature is then gradually increased to 180 ° C and held for about 2 hours. The temperature is again raised to 220 ° C and maintained until an acid number of 1 or less is reached, which takes about 11 hours. It is cooled to a temperature of between 100 and 130 ° C., 65 g of isophthalic acid are then introduced and the mixture is heated again gradually to 220 ° C. for about 5 hours. 380 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate / isophthalate / isostearate polycondensate are thus obtained in the form of an oil.

  The polycondensate has the following characteristics: - soluble to 50% by weight, at 25 ° C., in the Parleam - acid number = 5.5 - hydroxyl number = 103 - Mw = 7200 - n800c = 700 mPa.s - ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid: 0.30.

  Example 3 Synthesis of pentaerythritol benzoate / isophthalate / stearate

  In a reactor equipped with mechanical stirring, an inlet of argon and a distillation system, 10 g of benzoic acid, 370 g of stearic acid and 95 g of pentaerythritol are charged and then heated gradually, under a gentle stream of argon at 110-130 ° C to obtain a homogeneous solution. The temperature is then gradually increased to 180 ° C and held for about 2 hours. The temperature is again raised to 220 ° C and maintained until an acid number of 1 or less is reached, which takes about 11 hours. The mixture is cooled to a temperature between 100 and 130 ° C., then 90 g of isophthalic acid are introduced and the mixture is heated again gradually to 220 ° C. for about 11 hours. 430 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate / isophthalate / stearate polycondensate are thus obtained in the form of a very thick oil.

  The polycondensate has the following characteristics: - soluble to 50% by weight, at 70 ° C., in the Parleam® - Acid number = 10.8 - Mw = 8800-n800c = 360 mPa · s 5 27 Examples A to R similar to the previous examples, the following polycondensates are prepared (the% are by weight): Polyol Acid Acid Acid non-aro Solubility (% and nature) polycarboxylic aromatic (% and nature) or or (% and nature) anhydride (% and nature) Example A 21.6 3.9 19.5 27.5% isostea at 25 ° C Pentaerythritol benzoic Acid + 27.5% isophthalic isononanoic Example B 16.8 1.8 15.9 65.5 to 70 C Pentaerythritol benzoic Isophthalic behenic acid Example C 20 4 20 56 at 25 C Pentaerythritol terbutylben-Isophearic isostearic acid isophthalic Example D 17.4 8.6 16 58 at 25 C benzoic glycerol Isosteal isostearic acid Example E 20.7 8.5 15, 9 54.9 at 25 ° C glycerol terbutyl-isononanoic acid benzoic adipic Example F 25.5 2 13.7 58.8 at 25 C diglyc Benzoic acid Isophthalic isononanoic acid Example G 28 2 14 56 at 25 C-ditrimethylol-1-naphthoic acid isophthalostostearic propane acid Example H 25.2 5.8 12.6 56.3 at 25 C trimethylolbenzoic acid isophthalononanoic acid propane Example I 2.1 14.6 58.3 at 25 C trimethylol-toluic anhydride isostearic anhydride propane phthalic Example J 21.9 6.3 13.5 58.3 at 25 C erythritol terbutyl-sebacisooctanoic acid benzoic acid Example K 20.4 6.1 20.4 53.1 at 25 ° C dipentaerythrobenzoic PRIPOL isostearic 1009 ** Example L 28 2 14 40% isostearic-25 C-ditrimethylol-1-naphthoic acid isophthalic + 16 % 2- propane Ethylhexane tick Example M 21.3 6.4 17 27.7% nona-25 C pentaerythritol benzoic succinic acid + 27.6% that isoheptanoic Example N 17.4 8.6 16 58 to 70 C benzoic glycerol isophthastearic acid Example O 25.5 2 13.7 58.8 to 70 C benzoic diglycerol isophthalmic acid Example P 25.5 3.9 15.7 54.9 to 70 C Benzoic diglycerol Sebaciluric acid Example Q 20.4 6.1 20.4 53.1 at 70 C dipentaerythrobenzoic PRIPOL behenic 1009 ** Example R 25.2 5.8 12.6 31.1% stearic at 70 ° C trimethylolbenzoic acid Isophthalic acid + 25.3% propeneic behenic acid at 25 ° C indicates that the polymer is soluble at 50% by weight, at 25 ° C., in Parléam; at 70 ° C indicates that the polymer is soluble at 50% by weight, at 70 ° C., in the Parléam ** PRIPOL 1009 from Uniqema: oleic acid dimer Example 4: Synthesis of pentaerythritol benzoate / isophthalate / isostearate / stearate

  In a reactor equipped with mechanical stirring, an argon inlet and a distillation system, 20 g of benzoic acid, 210 g of stearic acid, 70 g of isostearic acid are charged. and 100 g of pentaerythritol, and then heated gradually, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130 C to obtain a homogeneous solution. The temperature is then gradually increased to 180 ° C and held for about 2 hours. The temperature is again raised to 220 ° C. and maintained until an acid number of less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 11 hours. It is cooled to a temperature of between 100 and 130 ° C., then 100 g of isophthalic acid are introduced and the mixture is heated again gradually to 220 ° C. for about 11 hours. 450 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate / isophthalate / isostearate / stearate polycondensate are thus obtained in the form of a very thick oil.

  The polycondensate has the following characteristics: - Soluble at 50% by weight, at 70 ° C., in the Parleam - Acid number = 7.1 - n = 100 = 850 mPa.s - Mw = 28500 - ratio between the number of moles aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids: 0.166.

  Example 5 Synthesis of pentaerythritol behenate / benzoate / isophthalate / isostearate

  In a reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an inlet of argon and a distillation system, 20 g of benzoic acid, 140 g of behenic acid, 140 g

  29 isostearic acid and 100 g of pentaerythritol, then heated gradually, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130 C to obtain a homogeneous solution. The temperature is then gradually increased to 180 ° C and held for about 2 hours. The temperature is again raised to 220 ° C. and maintained until an acid number of less than or equal to 1 is reached, which takes about 11 hours. It is cooled to a temperature of between 100 and 130 ° C., then 100 g of isophthalic acid are introduced and the mixture is heated again gradually to 220 ° C. for about 11 hours. 440 g of pentaerythrityl behenate / benzoate / isophthalate / isostearate polycondensate are thus obtained in the form of a very thick oil.

  The polycondensate has the following characteristics: - soluble to 50% by weight, at 70 ° C., in the Parleam - acid number = 4.2 - niiooc = 2050 mPa · - ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acids: 0.181.

  Examples a to i In a manner similar to the previous examples, the following polycondensates are prepared (the% are by weight): Polyol Acid Acid Acid non-aromatic polycarboxylic acid (% and nature) (% and nature) or (% and nature) anhydride (% and nature) Example 20.4 4.1 18.3 28.6% isostea at 25 ° C Pentaerythritol benzoic Acid + 14.3% isophthalic isononanoic + 14.3% stearic Example b 20 4 20 18% isostearic at 25 ° C Pentaerythritol benzoic Acid + 38% isophthalic stearic Example c 20 4 20 28% isostearic at 25 ° C Pentaerythritol benzoic acid + 28% isophthalic stearic Example d 19.8 4 19.8 40 , 6% isostea at 25 ° C. Pentaerythritol benzoic Acid + 15.8% isophthalic stearic Example e 19.8 4 19.8 48.5% isostea at 25 ° C Pentaerythritol benzoic Acid + 7.9% isophthalic stearic Example f 19.8 4 19.8 52.4% isostea at 25 C Pentaerythritol benzoic acid + 4% isophthalic stearic Exe mple g 25.5 3.9 15.7 34.9% isostea at 25 C Benzoic diglycerol Acidic + 20% sebacic lauric Example h 25 2.1 14.6 18.3% isostea at 70 C trimethylol-m toluene-toluic anhydride + 40% behenic phthalic propane Example i 21.9 6.3 terbutyl-13.5 8.3% isoocta- at 70 C erythritol benzoic Sebacinonic acid + 50% as stearic Example 20.7 8, 15.9 45.9% isono- 25 C glycerol terbutyl-nanoic adipic acid + 9% behenic benzoic acid at 25 ° C indicates that the polymer is 50% by weight soluble at 25 ° C in Parleam; at 70 ° C indicates that the polymer is 50% by weight soluble at 70 ° C in Parleam.

  Example 6 Synthesis of pentaerythritol benzoate / isophthalate / laurate / PDMS In a reactor equipped with mechanical stirring, an inlet of argon and a distillation system, 150 g of benzoic acid, 165 g of lauric acid and 110 g of pentaerythritol, and then heated gradually, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130 C to obtain a homogeneous solution. The temperature is then gradually increased to 180 ° C and held for about 2 hours. The temperature is again raised to 220 ° C. and maintained until an acid number of less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 15 hours. The mixture is cooled to a temperature of between 100 and 130 ° C., then 90 g of isophthalic acid and 50 g of Shin-Etsu's α, di diol X 22-160AS silicone are introduced and the mixture is heated again gradually to 220 ° C. for 20 minutes. about 11 hours. 510 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate / isophthalate / laurate / PDMS polycondensate are thus obtained in the form of a thick oil which solidifies at room temperature.

  The polycondensate has the following characteristics: - Acid number = 28.7 - Hydroxyl value = 85 - n11ooc = 2.1 Poises (ie 210 mPa. $) - ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of 25 moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid: 1.49.

  500 g of polycondensate obtained above are taken off, heated to 70 ° C. and 215 g of ethyl acetate are slowly stirred in and then clarified by hot filtration on sintered n 2. After cooling to room temperature 705 g of 70% polycondensate solution in ethyl acetate in the form of a pale yellow viscous liquid having a viscosity at 25 ° C of about 165 centipoise (mPa ·%).

  Example 7 Synthesis of pentaerythritol benzoate / isophthalate / laurate

  35 g of benzoic acid, 160 g of lauric acid and 120 g of pentaerythritol are charged to a reactor equipped with mechanical stirring, an argon inlet and a distillation system, and then heated gradually. under a gentle stream of argon at 110-130 ° C. to obtain a homogeneous solution. The temperature is then gradually increased to 180 ° C and held for about 2 hours. The temperature is again raised to 220 ° C and maintained until an acid number of less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 15 hours. It is cooled to a temperature of between 100 and 130 ° C., then 100 g of isophthalic acid are introduced and the mixture is heated again gradually to 220 ° C. for about 12 hours.

  This gives 510 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate / isophthalate / laurate polycondensate in the form of a thick oil which solidifies at room temperature.

  The polycondensate has the following characteristics: - Acid number = 20.4 - Hydroxyl value = 66 - n11ooc = 4.7 Poises (ie 470 mPa. $) - ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid: 1.69.

  500 g of polycondensate obtained above are taken off, the mixture is heated to 70 ° C. and 215 g of ethyl acetate are slowly stirred in and then clarified by hot filtration on fried-n-2. 700 g of 70% polycondensate solution in ethyl acetate is in the form of a pale yellow viscous liquid having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of about 310 centipoise (mPa ·%).

  Example 8 Synthesis of pentaerythritol benzoate / phthalate / laurate

  In a reactor equipped with mechanical stirring, an inlet of argon and a distillation system, 185 g of benzoic acid, 174 g of lauric acid and 114.6 g of pentaerythritol are charged. gradually heated under a gentle stream of argon, 110-130 C to obtain a homogeneous solution. The temperature is then gradually increased to 180 ° C and held for about 2 hours. The temperature is again raised to 220 ° C and maintained until an acid reading of 1 or less is obtained, which takes about 18 hours. It is cooled to a temperature of between 100 and 130 ° C., then 80 g of phthalic anhydride are introduced and the mixture is heated again gradually to 220 ° C. for about 8 hours. 15 g of pentaerythritol are added and the mixture is kept at 220 ° C. for 8 hours. 512 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate / phthalate / laurate polycondensate are thus obtained in the form of a thick oil which solidifies at room temperature.

  The polycondensate has the following characteristics: - Acid number = 13.0 - Hydroxyl value = 60 - n11ooc = 0.9 Poises (ie 90 mPa. $) - ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid: 1.74.

  Lipstick Example 9: Ingredients (INCI name)% ISOPARAFFINE (6-8 ISOBUTY MOLES- 34.57 LENE) HYDROGENATED TRI-DECYL TRI-MELLITATE 34.07 MIXTURE OF P-HYDROXYBENZOATES 0.40 ISO -PROPYL, ISO-BUTYL, N-BUTYL (40/30/30) DITERTIOBUTYL 4-HYDROXYTOLUENE 0.06 POLYESTER From Example 1 20.00 POLYBUTENE (MONOOLEFINS / 0.40 ISOPARAFFINS) (MW: 920) HYDROPHOBIC PYROGENIC SILICA , SURFACE TREATED BY 10.50 DI-METHYLSILANE 100.00

Claims (22)

  1. transparent cosmetic composition comprising: between 0.1 and 70% by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition, of at least one polyester obtainable by reaction of at least one polyol comprising 6 hydroxyl groups; at least one nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid; at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid, and at least one polycarboxylic acid comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH and / or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid, between 1 and 90% by weight of at least one oil, and -0.01 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition of at least one gelling agent of said oil.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyester is obtainable by reaction: from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polyester, of at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6; hydroxyl groups; from 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polyester, of at least one linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms; from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polyester, of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally further substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic, which contain 1 to 32 carbon atoms; from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polyester, of at least one polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and / or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxylic groups COOH, in particular 2 at 4 COOH groups; and / or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid.   3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol is a saturated hydrocarbon compound, linear or branched, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 12 or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and 3 to 6 hydroxy (OH) groups.   4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol is selected from glycerol, pentaerythritol, diglycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better is pentaerythritol. 40   5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is of formula RCOOH, wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon radical comprising 5 to 31 atoms. carbon, especially 7 to 27 carbon atoms, and still more preferably 9 to 23 carbon atoms, or even 11 to 19 carbon atoms. 45   6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-aromatic mono-carboxylic acid is selected from 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, isoheptanoic acid. isononanoic acid, nonanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof, and still more preferably isostearic acid alone or stearic acid. alone.   7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids, represents 40 to 75% by weight or even 45 to 70% by weight, and better still 50 to 65% by weight. % by weight, of the total weight of the final polyester.   8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is of formula R'COOH, wherein R 'is an aromatic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular the radicals. benzoic and naphthoic; said radical R 'may also be substituted by 1 to 3 saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 32 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 12 or even 3 to 8 carbon atoms; and especially chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, terbutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, cyclopentyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, heptyl, isoheptyl, octyl or isooctyl.   9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is selected from benzoic acid, 4-tert-butyl-benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, acid m -toluic, 1-naphthoic acid, alone or in mixtures; and even better, benzoic acid alone.   10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids, represents 0.5 to 9.95% by weight, better still 1 to 9.5% by weight, or 1.5 to 8% by weight, of the total weight of the final polyester.   11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polycarboxylic acid is selected from linear, branched and / or cyclic polycarboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, comprising 2 to 50, especially 2 to 40, carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 36 or even 3 to 18, and more preferably 4 to 12 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms; said acid comprising at least two carboxylic groups COOH, preferably from 2 to 4 COOH groups.   The composition of claim 18, wherein said polycarboxylic acid is aromatic and comprises 8 to 12 carbon atoms.   13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polycarboxylic acid or its anhydride is chosen from adipic acid, phthalic anhydride and / or isophthalic acid, and better isophthalic acid alone.   14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polycarboxylic acid and / or its cyclic anhydride represents 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 14 to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the polyester.   15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid does not comprise a free OH group.   16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid is between 0.08 and 0.70, in particular between 0.10 and 0.60, or even between 0.12 and 0.40.   17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester 50 is obtainable by reaction: - of at least one polyol chosen from, alone or as a mixture, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and their mixtures thereof; present in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, especially 12 to 25% by weight, and more preferably 14 to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polyester; at least one nonaromatic monocarboxylic acid chosen from, alone or in the form of a mixture, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, isononanoic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof; present in an amount of 30 to 80% by weight, especially 40 to 75% by weight, and more preferably 45 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polyester; at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid chosen from, alone or as a mixture, benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, 1-naphthoic acid; present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, especially 1 to 9.5% by weight, or even 1.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the final polyester; and at least one polycarboxylic acid or one of its anhydrides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, phthalic anhydride and isophthalic acid; present in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight, especially 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 14 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final polyester.   18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester is present in an amount of between 1 and 50% by weight, especially between 10 and 45% by weight, or even between 20 and 40% by weight, and better between 25 and 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.   19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the gelling agent is selected from silicas, dextrin palmitates and polyamides esterified at the end of the chain with fatty alkyls.   20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the gelling agent is present in an amount of between 1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.   21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in the form of mascara, lipstick, lip gloss (gloss), blush or eyelid, foundation.   22. Cosmetic composition containing: a benzoic acid polymer I isophthalic acid / isostearic acid I pentaerythritol, a benzoic acid polymer I isophthalic acid / stearic acid pentaerythritol, or a mixture thereof, silica.