WO2018115771A1

WO2018115771A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a polyamide resin and a silicate

Info

Publication number: WO2018115771A1
Application number: PCT/FR2017/053785
Authority: WO
Inventors: Hélène DE CLERMONT GALLERANDE; Caroline DAQUIN
Original assignee: Chanel Parfums Beaute
Priority date: 2016-12-21
Filing date: 2017-12-21
Publication date: 2018-06-28
Also published as: FR3060362A1; FR3060320A1

Abstract

The present invention concerns a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a polyamide resin and a silicate. The invention also concerns an eye shadow, a make-up foundation or a lipstick comprising said composition and a cosmetic method for making up the eyelids, the skin or the lips, comprising the topical application of this composition on the eyelids, the skin or the lips. The invention also concerns the use of a silicate for reducing the stickiness of a composition comprising a polyamide resin.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a polyamide resin and a silicate

The present invention relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a polyamide resin and a silicate. It also relates to an eye shadow, a foundation or a lipstick comprising said composition and a cosmetic process for makeup of the eyelids, skin or lips, comprising the topical application on the eyelids, skin or the lips of this composition. The invention also relates to the use of a silicate for reducing the tackiness of a composition comprising a polyamide resin.

The cosmetic compositions may be formulated in various forms, such as anhydrous compositions or emulsions and may have different textures as fluids or solids.

The compositions having a continuous oily phase are makeup compositions which are preferred because they have good adhesion to the skin or to the lips, limit the evaporation of the water contained in the skin and make it possible to form a water-resistant film on the skin. on the skin or on the lips. The makeup obtained is comfortable, has good durability and does not dry skin or lips. To obtain solid oily compositions, it is necessary to structure the oily phase, for example by using a wax or a lipophilic gelling agent.

The use of lipophilic gelling agent is particularly preferred because the composition obtained has a texture which is perceived as less oily, less thick and less opaque than that of a composition structured with a wax. In addition, an excessive amount of wax affects negatively slipping and spreading of the composition when applied to the eyelids, skin or lips.

Among the existing lipophilic gelling agents, polyamide resins bearing terminal groups with an ester function and / or tertiary amide are known to give transparent oily gels which result in an intense and homogeneous makeup.

However, it has been observed that the use of these lipophilic gelling agents to structure anhydrous compositions led to the production of a film which, once dry, exhibited a residual tack. This phenomenon is particularly unpleasant when the film is applied to the skin, eyelids or lips. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide an anhydrous solid make-up composition having good sliding and spreading properties when it is applied to the skin, which results in an intense and homogeneous makeup, which has good staying power in the skin. time and that does not form a sticky film once dry.

The inventors have discovered that such a composition is obtained by combining a polyamide resin bearing ester-functional end groups with a silicate which contains at least magnesium. The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

a polyamide resin bearing end groups with an ester function;

a silicate which contains at least magnesium; and

- an oil; in which the polyamide resin represents from 8 to 17% by weight and the silicate represents from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to an eye shadow, a foundation or a lipstick comprising the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for makeup of the eyelids, skin or lips, comprising the topical application to the eyelids, skin or lips of the composition according to the invention.

Another object of the invention is also the use of a silicate which contains at least magnesium, preferably talc, magnesium aluminum silicate or hectorite, to reduce the tackiness of a solid anhydrous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a polyamide resin bearing end groups with an ester function.

Anhydrous solid composition

The composition according to the invention is a solid composition, that is to say that it does not flow under its own weight in the temperature range at which the cometary products are generally used, namely 0 ° C. at 50 ° C.

The composition according to the invention is however liquid, that is to say that it flows under its own weight, when it is heated at a temperature ranging from 50 ° C. to 110 ° C. Indeed, the cosmetic composition of the invention is preferably in the form of a cast product which can in particular be obtained by heating the composition is by casting it in a suitable container.

The composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition, that is to say that it contains no water or any at most water naturally included in the ingredients it contains, that is to say at most 3% by weight of water or even at most 1% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition. Physically-acceptable environment

The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has no deleterious side effects and in particular which does not produce redness, heating, unacceptable tugging or tingling for a user of cosmetics.

Polyamide resin

The composition according to the invention comprises a polyamide resin bearing end groups with an ester function.

The polyamide resin according to the invention may in particular be an ester-terminated poly (ester amide) resin polyamide, or ETPEA (ester-terminated poly (ester-amide)). Such resins include both ester functional monomeric units and amide functional monomeric units as well as ester functional end groups.

Thus, the polyamide resin may in particular be a polyamide resin carrying terminal ester-functional groups which corresponds to formula (2):

GOLD

(2) in which :

n and m denote a number of repeating units such that the terminal ester groups represent from 10 to 50% of the total number of amide groups and esters of the resin,

the R ¹ groups are independently hydrocarbon groups CI_ ₂ 2 _/ - the groups R ² are independently hydrocarbon groups C _2-2 _I

the groups R ³ independently denote organic groups containing at least two carbon atoms and optionally one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, and

the groups R ^3a independently denote hydrogen, C 1-10 alkyl groups or a direct bond to R ³ or together form a heterocycle including the nitrogen atoms to which they are bonded and R ³ .

The composition according to the invention may further comprise a polyamide resin bearing tertiary amide terminal groups which corresponds to formula (1):

in which :

n denotes a number of repeating units such that the terminal tertiary amide groups represent from 10 to 50% of the total number of amide groups of the resin,

the groups R ¹ independently denote C1-22 hydrocarbon groups,

the groups R ² independently denote O 2-42 hydrocarbon groups, the groups R ³ independently denote organic groups containing at least two carbon atoms and optionally one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, and

In the formulas (1) and (2) above, n and m, identical or different, preferably have a value ranging from 1 to

10 and more preferably 1 to 5.

In addition, it is preferred that the tertiary amide groups or terminal esters comprise from 15 to 40%, preferably from 20 to 35%, of the total number of amide groups and esters of the resin.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention:

at least one, and preferably all R ¹ groups are alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or

at least one, and preferably at least 50% or even all R ² groups are alkylene or alkenylene groups containing from 2 to 42 and preferably from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention that R ^3a denotes hydrogen. In this case, at least one and preferably all R ³ groups may contain from 2 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 12 and more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. R ³ may thus denote a polyoxyalkylene group such as a polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene group. Alternatively, R ³ may denote a polyalkylene amine group such as -NH- (CH 2 CH 2 NH) PCH 2 CH 2 -NH- where p is an integer of 1 to 5. According to one embodiment, R ^3a may denote a C 1-3 alkyl group such as a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl group.

In another embodiment, the R ^3a groups may together form and with R ³ and the adjacent nitrogen atoms a piperazine ring.

The polyamide resin used according to the invention may for example have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 6,000 g / mol, more preferably from 4,000 to 6,000 g / mol. mol and more preferably from 4000 to 5000 g / mol, as measured by gel permeation chromatography using polystyrene calibration. In addition, it preferably has a number average molecular weight of from 2,000 to 4,000 g / mol and more preferably from 2,500 to 3,500 g / mol.

It can especially be prepared as described in document US 2003/0069388.

Examples of tertiary amide-terminated polyamide resins are those identified by the INCI name

"Ethylenediamine / Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-Cl 4-18 Alkyl Amide" and available for example under the trade name SYLVACLEAR A200V or SYLVACLEAR ^® A2614V from the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL or those identified by the INCI name "Diisostearyl malate and bis -dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylenediamine "and available for example under the trade name Haimalate PAM from the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.

An example of an ester-terminated polyamide resin is that identified by the INCI name Polyamide-8 corresponding to a polymer "Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine / Neopentyl Glycol / Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer" and available for example under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 from CRODA.

The polyamide resin bearing end groups with an ester function may represent, for example, from 1 to 30% by weight and preferably from 8 to 17% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Silicate

The composition according to the invention comprises a silicate which contains magnesium or a mixture thereof.

The silicate which contains at least magnesium makes it possible to reduce the tackiness of an oily composition structured with a lipophilic gelling agent of the polyamide resin type bearing end groups with an ester function. In order to be able to exert its anti-stick function, it is preferable that the silicate containing magnesium can interact with the polyamide resin. Thus, a coated silicate, for example a pigment obtained by coating a silicate with a metal oxide layer, is not a silicate within the meaning of the present invention. Indeed, such a compound is not able to reduce the tackiness of a polyamide resin since the silicate is not in direct contact with the polyamide resin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicate" refers to all the silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing at least one element, preferably at least two elements, chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline earth (eg Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminum. The silicate of the composition of the invention contains at least magnesium and may further comprise other elements as described above. Preferably, the silicate of the composition of the invention contains at least magnesium and aluminum and may further comprise other elements as described above.

The silicate of the composition of the invention may especially be chosen from talc, magnesium aluminum silicate, laponites, montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, saponites, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the silicate used is selected from talc, magnesium aluminum silicate, hectorites, and mixtures thereof; preferably magnesium aluminum silicate; more preferably magnesium and aluminum silicate hydrated, synthetic and amorphous.

The silicate introduced into the composition according to the invention is not a mica or a kaolin. Indeed, mica and kaolin are not silicates that contain magnesium and do not reduce the tackiness of a cosmetic composition comprising a polyamide resin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "magnesium aluminum silicate" refers to a silicate which contains magnesium and aluminum but which does not comprise other elements as described above. The magnesium aluminum silicate according to the invention may be a hydrous magnesium aluminum silicate and may in particular correspond to the general formula w (Al ₂ O ₃ ) · χ (MgO) ^« y (SiO ₂ ) · ζ (H ₂ 0) in which w, x and y, which are identical or different, are strictly greater than 0 and less than 10; and z is from 0 to 10. Preferably w and x are from 0.5 to 1.5; from 1 to 2.5; and z is from 0 to 10. An example of magnesium aluminum silicate hydrate, Synthetic and amorphous is the product sold by FUJI CHEMICAL INDUSTRY under the name Neusilin® ULF2.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "talc" refers to a magnesium silicate. Magnesium silicate is a silicate that contains magnesium but does not include other elements as described above. Thus, talc is not a magnesium aluminum silicate within the meaning of the present invention. The talc may be a hydroxylated magnesium silicate and may in particular correspond to the formula Mg ₃ Si ₄ O 10 (OH) ₂ · Examples of talc are, for example, the products sold under the name Talc J13-MT by the company US Cosmetics corp. , and talc sold under the name Luzenac Pharma M by Imerys Talc Luzenac France. Examples of laponites are the products sold under the name Laponite XLS, Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS by ROCKWOOD ADDITIVES (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and silicates of sodium, lithium and magnesium) . An example of bentonite is the product sold under the name Bentone HC by Rheox.

An example of hectorite is the product sold under the name Bentone 38V CG by the company ELEMENTIS SPECIALTIES (INCI name disteardimonim hectorite). The silicate may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 4 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Oil The composition according to the invention comprises an oil or mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and which, when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C. C is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to less than 10% by weight, based on the weight of oil introduced into the water.

As oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, (poly) esters and (poly) synthetic ethers and in particular (poly) esters of C ₆ -C ₂ 0 acids and C ₆ -C ₂₀ alcohols which are advantageously branched, vegetable oils, branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids, branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols, silicone oils, and their blends.

The oil may especially be a volatile oil, a non-volatile oil or a mixture thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the oil is a volatile oil mixture of non-volatile oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ^{~ 3} to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm) Hg).

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which has a boiling point generally greater than 300 ° C at 760 mmHg (101325 Pa) and which has little or no vapor pressure.

The volatile oils may be chosen from volatile silicone oils, volatile hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include certain dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane and octamethyl. trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, the compounds identified by the INCI names methyl trimethicone and caprylyl methicone and mixtures thereof.

By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The volatile hydrocarbon oil may in particular be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:

branched C 6 -C 16 alkanes such as C 6 -C 16 iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls,

linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by

Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the mixture undecane-tridecane (Cetol UT), the mixtures of n- undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis, the product sold under the reference Cetiol® Ultimate by BASF Care Créations, the mixture of alkanes in C15-19 sold under reference

Emogreen® L15 by the company SEPPIC, or the mixture of C12-14 alkanes sold under the reference Vegelight® 1214LC by the company Biosynthis;

- and their mixtures. The volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably

Isododecane.

The non-volatile oils may especially be chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile ester oils, and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile silicone oils that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes whose alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and oils identified by the INCI name phenyl trimethicone. The term "ester oil" means a mono-, di-, tri- or tetraester oil. The ester oils are obtained by reacting a mono-, di-, tri- and more generally a polyol with a monodistrict and more generally a polycarboxylic acid, said reagents being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated , aliphatic or aromatic, and may optionally include alkoxylated groups. The ester oils may in particular be hydroxylated.

In particular, the non-volatile ester oil may comprise from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

The non-volatile ester oil may especially be chosen from: monoesters comprising 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain especially branched containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate , the 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

diesters comprising from 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular from 18 to 50 carbon atoms, such as diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate; glycol and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate;

- triesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as tri tries of carboxylic triacid, such as triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; or the triesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate; tetraesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters and a monocarboxylic acid, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate or 2-tridecyltetradecanoate; glyceryl, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate;

polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as the polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol;

esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular those obtained from a dimer of a C8 to C34 unsaturated fatty acid, especially C12 to C22, in particular

C16 to C20, and more particularly to C18, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and dimer dilinoleic diols, for example those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), in particular of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate; Cig-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois); and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;

- and their mixtures. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile ester oil is isodecyl neopentanoate.

In particular, the oil introduced into the composition according to the invention is a mixture of isododecane and isodecyl neopentanoate.

The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 45% by weight, relative to the weight. of the composition. Film-forming polymer

The composition according to the invention may further comprise a film-forming polymer or mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polymers are in particular likely to bring the strength and / or non-transfer properties and / or shine to the makeup imparted by the composition. It may especially be a silicone polymer optionally modified urethane or fluorinated or acrylate such as silicones (meth) acrylates sold by SHIN-ETSU under the trade names KP-545, KP-561 and KP-562, or polymers marketed by Dow Corning under the trade names DC FA® 4003 DM, DC FA® 4002 ID and DC FA 4001 CM. Other examples of film-forming polymers are silicone resins and in particular MQ resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicates marketed in particular by WACKER under the trade name BELSIL ^® TMS803 and MT resins such as silsesquioxane derivatives and in particular polymethylsilsesquioxanes, sold in particular by the company SHIN-ETSU, and the polypropylsilsesquioxane marketed by the company Dow Corning under the trade name DC 670 or phenylpropyl polysilsesquioxane marketed by WACKER under the trade name BELSIL SPR45VP. Another example consists of fluorosilicone polymers identified by the INCI name trifluoropropyldimethylsiloxy triethylsiloxysilicate such as that sold by General Electric under the trade name XS66-B8226. Bioadhesive polymers obtained for example by polycondensation of dimethiconol and of silicate resin can also be used as film-forming polymers.

MQ in a solvent such as heptane, which are sold especially by DOW CORNING under the trade names DC 7-4405 low tack and DC 7-

4505 ® high tack. Other examples of film-forming polymers are cyclic or non-cyclic polyolefins such as polybutene (Indopol® H-1900 and H-2100, for example) or polycyclopentadiene, in particular marketed by the company.

KOBO under the trade name KOBOGUARD® 5400, or else polydicyclopentadiene. Further examples of film-forming polymers are made up of copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and / or linear olefins such as copolymers of VP / hexadecene and VP / eicosene including Antaron ^® V216 and V220 from ISP or the ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymers such as AC 400 ® from the company BAERLOCHER. Polyether may also be mentioned, such as poly (vinyl stearyl ether) marketed in particular by the company Phoenix under the trade name GIOVAREZ® 1800. Other polymers The film-forming agents that may be used in this invention are polyacrylates, such as poly (ethyl acrylate) marketed in particular by CREATIONS COLORS under the trade name CREASIL 7 ID. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a film-forming polymer chosen from the copolymers VP / hexadecene and VP / eicosene, and their mixtures.

The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition .

Lipophilic wax and gelling agent The composition according to the invention may further comprise a wax, a lipophilic gelling agent other than the polyamide resin described above, and mixtures thereof.

"Wax" means a reversible liquid / solid state change fat having a melting temperature above 30 ° C and generally below 90 ° C, which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and presents in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. "Apolar" means a wax containing only carbon atoms, hydrogen and / or phosphorus and in particular a hydrocarbon.

The wax may especially be an apolar wax, a polar wax, and mixtures thereof

Examples of apolar waxes include paraffin waxes, polymethylene, polyethylene, polypropylene or ethylene / propylene copolymer waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite and mixtures thereof. Examples of such waxes are in particular sold by the company SASOL WAX under the trade name Sasol Wax C80, by the company JEEN under the trade names Jeenate 2H to 6H and by the company NEW PHASE under the trade names Performalene 500 and

Performa V343. It is generally preferred to use a wax having a melting point below 80 ° C, preferably below 70 ° C, for example between 50 and 70 ° C. Examples of polar waxes include animal waxes, vegetable waxes and synthetic or silicone waxes containing polar groups such as esters. We can mention the Carnauba, Candelilla, Bee (Cera alba), Chinese insect (Ericerus pela), Japan, Sumac, Montan, C8-C20 acid triesters and glycerin such as glycerin tribehenate, acetylated glycol stearate marketed in particular by VEVY under the trade name CETACENE®, and mixtures thereof. Examples of lipophilic gelling agents other than the polyamide resin described above are, in particular, silicone polymers and more particularly organopolysiloxane elastomers. Among these, there may be mentioned at least partially crosslinked polymers resulting from the reaction of an organopolysiloxane bearing unsaturated groups, such as vinyl or allyl groups, located at the end or in the middle of the chain, preferably on an atom of silicon, with another reactive silicone compound such as an organohydrogenpolysiloxane. Examples of such elastomers are in particular marketed by SHIN ETSU under the trade names KSG-6, KSG-16, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44, and by the company Dow Corning under the denominations DC 9040 and DC 9041. Another oily gelling agent consists of a silicone polymer, obtained by self-polymerization of an organopolysiloxane functionalized with epoxy and hydrosilyl groups, in the presence of a catalyst, which is available in the Trade with the company GENERAL ELECTRIC under the trade name VELVESIL 125. Another lipophilic gelling agent consists of a non-crosslinked cyclic dimethicone / vinyldimethicone copolymer such as that marketed by the company JEEN under the trade name JEESILC® PS (including PS-VH). , PS-VHLV, PS-CM, PS-CMLV and PS-DM). The lipophilic gelling agent may alternatively be a sucrose ester such as that designated by the INCI name "Sucrose tetrastearate triacetate".

The wax and / or the lipophilic gelling agent other than the resin may represent from 1 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, more particularly from 8 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Other ingredients Apart from the aforementioned constituents, the composition according to the invention may contain various ingredients, such as a coloring material, a UV filter, and mixtures thereof.

The dyestuff may in particular be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, the fillers having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the composition and / or of coloring the lips, such as pigments, pearlescent agents, lacquers (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert mineral carrier) and mixtures thereof. These dyestuffs may optionally be surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C ₉ -i ₅ fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, mixed copolymers C 8 fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicones, lecithins, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate. The pigments can be mineral or organic, natural or synthetic.

Examples of inorganic pigments are in particular titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zinc or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarines, ferric ferrocyanide called Prussian blue, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic pigments, pearls , interferential, photochromic or thermochromic, without this list being exhaustive.

Examples of organic pigments that can be used in the invention are, in particular, carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum lakes, or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP). ) described in the documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537. The nacres may be chosen from those conventionally present in makeup products, such as mica / titanium dioxide. Alternatively, it may be nacres based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide ^(® SUNSHINE from Maprecos), calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide ^(® REFLECKS® of ENGELHARD) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR ^® from MERCK).

Advantageously, when it contains one or more pigments, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one dispersant such as butylene glycol cocoate. The UV filters may especially be chosen from organic and inorganic filters and their mixtures. As organic filters, there may be mentioned in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives (including butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), cinnamic acid derivatives (including ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), salicylates, para-aminobenzoic acids, β, β '-diphenylacrylates, benzophenones, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazoles, triazines, phenylbenzotriazoles and anthranilic derivatives. As inorganic filters, there may be mentioned mineral oxide based filters in the form of pigments or nanopigments, coated or not, and in particular based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more sweetening agents such as sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, acesulfame K and sodium saccharinate; antioxidants such as alkyl esters or phosphorylated ascorbic acid, or tocopherol and its esters; sequestering agents such as EDTA salts; pH adjusters; conservatives; perfumes ; vitamins ; moisturizing agents; and their mixtures.

Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 11th Edition, 2006).

galenic

The composition according to the invention is in the form of a solid product, such as a product cast in a dish, in a pot or in the form of a stick. The composition according to the invention may advantageously be used for the makeup of the eyelids, skin or lips.

In particular, the product of the invention can be in the form of an eye shadow, a foundation or a lipstick.

Thus, the subject of the invention is an eye shadow, a foundation or a lipstick comprising the cosmetic composition described above.

Makeup process

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the makeup of keratin materials, in particular eyelids, skin or lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined above.

use

Another subject of the invention is, according to another aspect, the use of a silicate which contains magnesium, preferably talc, a magnesium aluminum silicate or a hectorite, in order to reduce the tackiness of a composition anhydrous solid comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a polyamide resin bearing end groups with an ester function.

The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustration of the present invention.

Example 1 Eye Shadow According to the Invention

An eye shadow having the composition shown in Table 1 below, in which proportions of the ingredients are expressed in percentages by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Table 1

This composition was prepared as follows:

101, 102, 103, 104 and 105 are mixed with stirring at 85 ° C. in an LR1000 reactor of the company IKA equipped with circular blades at 60 rpm to form the phase (1), 301, 302, 303 are added, 304 and 305 in the phase (1) melted and homogeneous at 85 ° C and dispersed using a dispersion tool S25KV-25G from the company IKA for 15 minutes at a speed between 10000 and 15000 tr / min to form the phase (1 + 3),

306 is added to (1 + 3) with stirring at 85 ° C to form the phase (1 + 3 + 306),

401 is added to (1 + 3 + 306) with stirring at 85 ° C, the mixture is poured hot into cups and allowed to cool.

Example 2 Eye Shadow According to the Invention

An eye shadow having the composition shown in Table 2 below was made according to the procedure of Example 1. The proportions of the ingredients are expressed in percentages by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Table 2

EXAMPLE 3 Eye Shadow According to the Invention An eye shadow having the composition indicated in Table 3 below was manufactured according to the procedure of Example 1. The proportions of the ingredients are expressed in percentages by weight relative to each other. the weight of the composition.

Table 3 Example 4: Eye shadow (comparative)

An eye shadow having the composition indicated in Table 4 below was made according to the procedure of Example 1. The proportions of the ingredients are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Table 4

Example 5: Eye shadow (comparative)

An eye shadow having the composition indicated in Table 5 below was made according to the procedure of Example 1. The proportions of the ingredients are expressed in percentages by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Table 5 Example 6: Sensory Evaluation

The formulas of Examples 1 to 5 were evaluated by a panel of subjects under standardized conditions of temperature, hygrometry and light.

The formulas of Examples 1 to 4 containing a silicate were applied with a brush by the experimenter on the left eyelid.

The formula of Example 5 not containing silicate was applied with a brush by the experimenter on the right eyelid.

Panelists evaluated the sticky products at the application, 3:30 after application and 7:30 after application.

The experimenter evaluated the result of the application of the eye shadow, especially if it takes well and if it applies well. The experimenter also evaluated the makeup after application (intensity, homogeneity) as well as the makeup hold 3:30 and 7:30 after application (presence of the product, homogeneity of the product, migration of the product in the crease of the eyelid, diffusion of the product around of the eye) on a scale from 0 (not) to 9 (very).

On application we find that:

all formulations are good;

all formulations apply well, the formulation of Example 3 comprising hectorite is however less slippery than the formulation of Example 5 without silicate;

all the formulations make it possible to obtain an intense and homogeneous makeup rendering without any migration or diffusion around the eye. In addition, the formulas evolve in the same way over time on the different criteria of behavior:

the makeup remains quite intense and fades little;

the makeup loses in homogeneity 3h30 after application;

makeup migrates a little in the crease of the eyelid 3h30 after application;

the makeup does not diffuse around the eye 7:30 after application.

Regarding the pantyhose felt by the panelists, the formula of Example 5 without silicate is perceived as sticky to the application, 3:30 after application and 7:30 after application. The formulas of Examples 1-3 comprising silicates containing magnesium according to the invention are perceived to be significantly less tacky than the formulation of Example 5. Thus, the addition of magnesium aluminum silicate, talc and Hectorite decreases the residual stickiness of the eye shadow. The formulation of Example 4 containing alumina-coated mica (non-magnesium-containing silicate) is perceived to be as tacky as the formulation of Silicate-Free Example 5.

Claims

1. A solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

a polyamide resin bearing terminal ester-functional groups;

a silicate which contains at least magnesium; and an oil;

in which the polyamide resin represents from 8 to 17% by weight and the silicate represents from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said polyamide resin is a polyamide resin bearing ester-functional end groups corresponding to formula (2):

(2)

in which :

the groups R ¹ independently denote C ¹ -C 22 hydrocarbon groups,

the groups R ² independently denote C2-42 hydrocarbon groups,

the groups R ³ independently denote organic groups containing at least two carbon atoms and optionally one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, and the groups R ^3a independently denote hydrogen, C 1 -C 10 alkyl groups or a direct bond to R ³ or together form a heterocycle including the nitrogen atoms to which they are bonded and R ³

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that n and m, identical or different, have a value ranging from 1 to 10.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polyamide resin is 10 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the silicate contains at least magnesium and may further comprise other elements selected from alkali metals, such as Na, Li and K, metals alkaline earth such as Be and Ca; transition metals; aluminum; and their mixtures; preferably the silicate contains at least magnesium and aluminum.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the silicate is selected from talc, magnesium aluminum silicate, laponites, montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, saponites, and their mixtures; preferably talc, magnesium aluminum silicate, and hectorites, more preferably magnesium aluminum silicate.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the silicate represents from 4 to

8% by weight, preferably 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the oil is chosen from a volatile oil, a non-volatile oil, and mixtures thereof; preferably the oil is a mixture of volatile oil and non-volatile oil; more preferably the oil is a mixture of isododecane and isodecyl neopentanoate.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the oil represents 20 to 60% by weight, preferably 30 to 50% by weight, more preferably 35 to 45% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises a film-forming polymer, preferably a film-forming polymer selected from the copolymers VP / hexadecene and VP / eicosene, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the film-forming polymer represents 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. .

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it further comprises a wax, a lipophilic gelling agent other than said polyamide resin, and mixtures thereof.

13. Eye shadow, foundation or lipstick comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

14. Cosmetic process for makeup of the eyelids, the skin or the lips, comprising the topical application on the eyelids, the skin or the lips of the composition cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

15. Use of a silicate which contains magnesium, preferably talc, magnesium aluminum silicate or hectorite, to reduce the tackiness of a solid anhydrous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a polyamide resin bearing ester end groups.