WO2020174174A1

WO2020174174A1 - Solid cosmetic composition that glides on and melts away on application

Info

Publication number: WO2020174174A1
Application number: PCT/FR2020/050356
Authority: WO
Inventors: Chantal Malvezin
Original assignee: Chanel Parfums Beaute
Priority date: 2019-02-26
Filing date: 2020-02-25
Publication date: 2020-09-03
Also published as: CN113423380A; EP3930678A1; FR3092996B1; US20220133602A1; FR3092996A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from sucrose polyesters, at least one fatty substance having a melting point between 25°C and 55°C, at least one oil, at least one colorant. The invention also relates to a stick comprising said composition, a method for preparing said composition and a method for making up the skin, mucous membranes or integuments, comprising the application of said composition.

Description

Title: Solid cosmetic composition slippery and

melting on application

Technical area

[0001] The invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, and more particularly solid cosmetic compositions such as lipstick sticks.

Prior art

[0002] The use of lip sticks as a means of coloring the lips has undergone rapid growth, so that lipsticks are today widely used beauty products. A cosmetically acceptable lipstick should spread easily, be uniform in color, and have a melting point above body temperature. Furthermore, it must give the lips a smooth but non-greasy appearance and must keep its consistency without the phenomena of exudation, oozing, breaking or disintegration occurring.

Technical problem

[0003] A lipstick must not only exhibit the qualities mentioned above, but above all impart a smooth and creamy feeling to the lips and protect them from drying out or cracking.

It has been observed that certain lipsticks tended to migrate, after application to the lips, towards the periphery of the mouth and in particular in perilabial fine lines. This phenomenon is particularly visible in the case of products intended to give the lips not only shine but also an intense color, and which consequently contain a high rate of coloring matter. Now, this migration phenomenon is obviously not desirable insofar as one of the primary qualities that lip makeup products must satisfy is obtaining a clear outline of the colored mouth. It is, of course, known that the use of structuring agents of wax and / or fillers type makes it possible to significantly reduce these migration problems. However, these structuring agents negatively affect the slippage of the composition on the lips and tend to produce a matt effect which is undesirable for lip glosses.

[0006] It would therefore be desirable to be able to have available make-up products for the lips which exhibit lower migration than the known products, or even no migration effect without adversely affecting the slippage of the composition on the lips and without producing a mat effect.

[0007] Similarly, it would be useful to have solid eye makeup products, such as eyeliners or eyeshadows, which do not significantly migrate into the folds of the eyelids or into the fine lines of the contour of the eye. eye without adversely affecting the slippage of the composition on the eyelid and without producing a matt effect.

[0008] The Applicant has had the merit of succeeding in developing a combination of fatty phase structuring agents making it possible to reduce or even prevent the migration of make-up products, without affecting the shine of the make-up obtained or the slippage on application. , while providing a feeling of melting when applied. The Applicant has further demonstrated that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to increase the hold of makeup. All these properties work together to guarantee a clean and precise application of the makeup composition, in particular to the lips, and to keep colored lips a clear contour all day long.

[0009] This combination of fatty phase structuring agents can be in the form of a cast product, for example in a stick.

[0010] A subject of the present invention is thus, according to a first aspect, a solid cosmetic composition comprising:

- at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from sucrose polyesters,

- at least one fatty substance having a melting point between 25 ° C and 55 ° C

- at least one oil, - at least one coloring agent

- at least one wax, in a content of less than 9% by weight, preferably from 7 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

- at least one lipophilic gelling agent other than sucrose polyester, in a content of less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] A subject of the invention is also, according to a second aspect, a process for making up the skin, mucous membranes or integuments comprising the application of said composition.

[0012] Lipophilic gelling agent

The term “lipophilic gelling agent” denotes, in the context of the present application, a substance capable of solidifying or gelatinizing the oil present in the composition of the invention.

The lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from sucrose polyesters. Mention may be made of esters of sucrose and of fatty acids, and preferably esters of sucrose, of stearic acid and of acetic acid, such as sucrose tetrastearate triacetate (corresponding to the INCI name sucrose tetrastearate triacetate) available under the trade name Sisterna® A10E-C from the company Sisterna.

The lipophilic gelling agent of the sucrose polyester type is present at a content of between 5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] Fatty substance having a melting point of between 25 ^ and 55‘C

The fatty substance having a melting point of between 25 ° C. and 55 ° C. is chosen from hydrogenated oils which are solid at 25 ° C. or fatty esters which are solid at 25 ° C., their mixtures.

Among the solid hydrogenated oils at 25 ° C, there may be mentioned hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil.

Among the fatty esters which are solid at 25 ° C., mention may be made of propylene glycol myristate, myristyl myristate and cetyl alcohol. The fatty component having a melting point of between 25 ° C and 55 ° C is preferably hydrogenated coconut oil.

The fatty component having a melting point of between 25 ° C and 55 ° C is present at a content of between 7% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] Oil

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oil” means a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), and which, when it is introduced in an amount of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C. C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble in an amount of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.

[0021] Non-volatile oil

The term “non-volatile oil” is understood to mean an oil which exhibits a boiling point generally greater than 300 ° C. at 760 mm Hg (101 325 Pa) and which exhibits little or no vapor pressure.

[0022] The non-volatile oils can in particular be chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and their mixtures.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si — O group.

As non-volatile silicone oil, mention may in particular be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, the alkyl chain of which contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and the oils identified by the INCI name phenyl trimethicone.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbons such as squalane, phytosqualane, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, synthetic (poly) esters also called "ester oils" and (poly) ethers, in particular (poly) esters of C6-C20 acids and C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched such as isononyl isononanoate; vegetable oils; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; or a mixture thereof.

The term “ester oil” is understood to mean a mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-ester oil. Ester oils are obtained by reacting a mono-, di-, tri- and more generally a polyol with a mono- di- tri- and more generally a polycarboxylic acid, said reactants possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. , aliphatic or aromatic, and possibly comprising alkoxyl groups. The ester oils can in particular be hydroxylated.

[0028] In particular, the non-volatile ester oil can contain from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

[0029] The non-volatile ester oil can in particular be chosen from:

monoesters comprising 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate , octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, myristate of isopropyl, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl;

diesters comprising 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular 18 to 50 carbon atoms, such as diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate; diesters of glycol and of mono-carboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate;

triesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as triesters a tri-carboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; or triesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;

tetraesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as the tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a mono-carboxylic acid, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetreasononanoate of 2-glyceryl tetradidecyl , polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or even pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate;

polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and / or trimer and of a diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as the polyester of dilinoleic acid and of 1, 4-butanediol;

- esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and of dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular those obtained from a dimer of an unsaturated C8 to C34 fatty acid, in particular C12 to C22, in particular C16 to C20, and more particularly C18, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for example those sold by the NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL company under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

- triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), in particular of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate; C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 (sold by Stéarineries Dubois); and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;

- or one of their mixtures.

[0030] The non-volatile oil used in the present invention is preferably a glossy oil. A glossy oil is called an oil whose refractive index is greater than 1, 43 preferably greater than 1, 45, even more preferably greater than 1, 50.

[0032] The refractive index is measured using an ABBE paralux ref 60-6400-9 refractometer.

An additional non-volatile oil can also be used to provide additional properties to the composition of the invention.

By way of example, diisostearyl malate can be added because it makes it possible to obtain a good dispersion of the pigments.

Other additional oils can be added to improve the sensory properties of the formula.

[0036] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from squalane, caprylic capric triglyceride, isotridecyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, sorbitan isostearate, ethylhexyl palmitate, diisostearyl malate or one of their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil introduced into the composition according to the invention is a mixture of squalane, caprylic capric triglyceride, isotridecyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, sorbitan isostearate, d ethylhexyl palmitate and diisostearyl malate.

The oil can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 30% and 70% by weight, preferably between 45% and 65% by weight, more preferably between 50% and 60% by weight , relative to the weight of the composition.

[0039] Volatile oil

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain (0%) or else very little (maximum 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) of volatile oil. By "volatile oil" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure of between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm of Hg), preferably between 1, 3 Pa and 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more preferably still between 1, 3 Pa and 1 300 Pa (0.01 at 1000 mm Hg).

[0042] The volatile oils include volatile silicone oils and / or volatile hydrocarbon oils.

The volatile silicone oils optionally used in the compositions of the invention are linear or cyclic, have in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and have a viscosity , at room temperature, less than 5 cSt.

By way of examples of volatile silicone oil, mention may more particularly be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxiloxiloxiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxiloxiloxyane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxiloxiloxyane, hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane, octylheptamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane or a mixture thereof.

As regards volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may more particularly be made of a short-chain hydrocarbon-based oil, volatile linear alkanes as for example described in document FR2933865 incorporated by reference. As examples of short chain hydrocarbon oil (s), mention may in particular be made of that (s) chosen from the group comprising isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, dodecane or a mixture thereof.

By way of example of volatile linear alkanes, mention may be made of those having hydrocarbon chains in:

- C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

- C15-19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15,

- C12-14, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC,

- C9-12 alkane, such as those marketed by Daito under the name Makigreen D10.

[0048] Pasty compound

The composition according to the invention can also comprise a pasty compound which can be advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and its derivatives,

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds

- fluorinated compounds, polymers or not,

- vinyl polymers, in particular homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols,

- mixtures of beeswax and octyldodecanol such as that marketed under the name Zenibee Cream by the company Zenitech,

- esters, - vegetable butters such as mango, shea, cocoa, cotton, avocado butter, etc.

or a mixture thereof.

Among the esters, one can use in particular:

- esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular esters of diglycerol, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as acid stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold under the brand Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,

- arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand Waxenol 801 by Alzo,

- phytosterol esters such as the product corresponding to the INCI name "bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate" marketed under the name Plandool-G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical Co, "Phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl / isostearyl lauroyl glutamate "sold under the name Eldew-PS308 by the company Ajinomoto,

- fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, for example the mixture of stearyl heptanoate and of stearyl caprylate marketed under the name DUB solid by the company Stéarinerie Dubois,

- pentaerythritol esters,

- uncrosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a linear or branched C4-C50 polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,

- aliphatic esters of esters resulting from the esterification of an ester of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid with an aliphatic carboxylic acid such as cetyl lactate marketed under the name ceraphyl 28 by the company ISP (International Specialty Products),

- polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an ester of aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as the products Risocast DA-H ®, and Risocast DA-L or a of their mixtures. Among the pasty compounds, the phytosterol esters will preferably be chosen such as the product corresponding to the INCI name "bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate" marketed under the name Plandool-G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical Co, “Phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl / isostearyl lauroyl glutamate” marketed under the name Eldew-PS308 by the company Ajinomoto, or a mixture of these.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of pasty compounds of between 1% and 40% by weight, preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, even more preferably between 10% and 20% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Coloring agent

The coloring agent can in particular be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, nacres, lakes or mixtures thereof.

These coloring agents can optionally be surface treated with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C _9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, mixed copolymers C ₉ -i ₅ fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicones, lecithins, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate. The pigments can be inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic.

Examples of inorganic pigments are in particular titanium dioxide, oxides of iron, zinc or chromium, manganese violets, ultramarines, ferric ferrocyanide known as Prussian blue, as well as composite pigments and pigments. goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromatic, without this list being exhaustive.

Examples of organic pigments which can be used in the invention are in particular carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or else them. diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537. The nacres can be chosen from those conventionally present in makeup products, such as mica / titanium dioxide. As a variant, they may be nacres based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide (SUNSHINE ^® from MAPRECOS), calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS ^® from ENGELHARD) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR ^® from MERCK).

Advantageously, when it contains one or more pigments, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one dispersant such as diisostearyl malate.

The coloring agents are present in the composition in a content of between 0.1% and 15%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Wax

The term "wax" denotes a liquid / solid reversible change fat, having a melting point greater than 55 ° C and generally less than 110 ° C, which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and which exhibits a high temperature. solid anisotropic crystal organization.

[0060] According to one embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent is a mixture of at least one wax and at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0061] According to another embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent is a mixture of at least one wax and at least one silicone resin.

[0062] According to another embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent is a mixture of at least two waxes.

The wax suitable for the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprises at least one polar wax and / or at least one nonpolar wax.

By polar wax is meant a wax comprising at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. In particular, the polar wax can be chosen from the group comprising beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, rice bran wax, berry wax, Chinese insect wax, montan wax, lanolin and its alcohol derivatives, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, wax shellac, polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswaxes sold by Koster Keunen under the trade name Kester Wax K82H, or a mixture thereof.

Mention may also be made of the waxes of plant esters chosen from the group comprising the mixture of jojoba esters, of polyglycerin-3, of Acacia decurrens flower wax and of sunflower seed wax, said mixture being marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Acticire®, the jojoba esters marketed by Floratech under the trade name Floraesters 60 or Floraesters 70, the alkyl esters or hydrogenated alkyl esters marketed by Sophim under the trade name Phytowax, such as for example, esters of hydrogenated lauroyl oleate marketed under the name Phytowax Olive 12L44.

By non-polar wax is meant a hydrocarbon wax and / or a silicone wax.

The term "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

Examples of nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes suitable in the compositions of the invention comprise polyethylene wax, sold by New Phase Technologies under the name Performalene 400 (P400) or by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jeenate 3H, a mixture of linear high molecular weight polyethylene and ethylene / propylene copolymer, marketed by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20, a synthetic wax marketed by Sasol under the name Sasol Wax C80, synthetic waxes and vegetable waxes, as by example a mixture of synthetic wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smart wax 202, a mixture of synthetic wax, Candelilla wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smartwax 7743S, Fischer Tropsch waxes marketed by Cirebelle under the name Cirebelle 303, or a mixture thereof.

The term "non-polar silicone wax" means a wax comprising a silicon heteroatom.

[0071] An example of an apolar silicone wax suitable in the compositions of the invention is C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, sold by Evonik Industries AG under the name Abil Wax.

More particularly, according to yet another embodiment of the invention, the wax is chosen from the group comprising a mixture of linear high molecular weight polyethylene and of ethylene / propylene copolymer, marketed by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20, the waxes of plant esters chosen from the group comprising the mixture of jojoba esters, polyglycerin-3, Acacia decurrens flower wax and sunflower seed wax, said mixture being marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Acticire®, or a mixture thereof.

The wax is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content of less than 9% by weight, preferably from 7% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Other structuring agents

The composition comprises less than 2% by weight, and preferably is free of lipophilic gelling agent other than the sucrose polyester.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents other than the sucrose polyester used, mention may in particular be made of silicone resins, organic lipophilic or inorganic polymeric or molecular gelling agents.

By way of example of silicone resins, mention may be made of:

- siloxysilicates which can be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula [(CH3) 3Si0] x (Si04 / 2) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers including between 50 and 80,

- polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH3Si03 / 2) .x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and in which at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted with an R group as defined above,

polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in document US Pat. No. 5,246,694.

By way of examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those which are marketed:

- by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SÎ03 / 2 (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3) 2Si02 / 2 units ( units D) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000,

- by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3SÎ03 / 2 and have Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of units T and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or else under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are marketed under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of the timethylsiloxysilicate resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name “KF-7312J” by the company Shin-Etsu, “DC 749”, “DC 593” by the company Dow Corning.

The lipophilic gelling agents other than the sucrose polyester which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

As mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of fumed silica optionally hydrophobic treated at the surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 mih. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is in particular possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be:

- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called “silica silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company CABOT,

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company CABOT.

The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, from Trefil E- 505C® and Trefil E-506C® by the company DOW-CORNING, of Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and of SR DC 556 gel® by the GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by the company DOW CHEMICAL; galactommanans comprising from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per dose, substituted by a saturated alkyl chain or not, such as guar gum alkylated by C1 to C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 to C3 alkyl chains or a mixture thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name Kraton® by the company SHELL CHEMICAL CO or of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane such as those sold by the PENRECO company under the name Versagel®, for example the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960) or in hydrogenated polyisobutene (Versagel ME 2000).

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent other than the sucrose polyester consists of polyamide resins or poly (ester-amide) resins, such as ester-terminated polyamides (ETPA), poly (ester- amides) terminated by an ester (ETPEA), polyamides with tertiary amide end (ATPA), polyamides with polyalkyleneoxy end (PAOPA) or polyether polyamides (PEPA).

Examples of ester-terminated polyamides (ETPA) are those identified by the INCI name “Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer” and available, for example, under the trade name Uniclear® 100VG from the company Arizona Chemical.

Examples of poly (ester-amides) terminated by an ester (ETPEA) are those identified by the INCI name polyamide-8 which are "Ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl dimer dibenzoate copolymers" and available , for example, under the trade name Oloecraft® LP-20-PA-MV from the company Croda.

Examples of tertiary amide terminated polyamides (ATPA) are those identified by the INCI name "Ethylenediamine / Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide hydrogenated dimer diilinoate copolymer" and available, for example, under the trade name Sylvaclear® A200V or Sylvaclear® A2614V from the company Arizona Chemical or those identified by the INCI name "diisostearyl malate and bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylenediamine" and available, for example, under the trade name Haimalate PAM from the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.

Examples of polyamides with a polyalkyleneoxy termination (PAOPA) are those identified by the INCI name Polyamide-3 and available, for example, under the name Sylvaclear® AF1900V, Sylvaclear® PE1800V and Sylvaclear® PA1200V from the company Arizona Chemical.

Examples of polyether polyamides (PEPA) are those identified by the INCI name Polyamide-6 and available, for example, under the name Sylvaclear® PE400V from the company Arizona Chemical.

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent other than the polyester of sucrose consists of the diamides of N-acyl glutamic acid. Mention may in particular be made of an N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a straight chain alkyl group such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and an N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a branched chain alkyl group, such as dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide. . Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide is commercially available as GP-1 and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide is commercially available as EB-21, and are both marketed by Ajinomoto.

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent other than the polyester of sucrose consists of esters of dextrin. Mention may be made of esters of dextrin and of fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate.

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent other than the polyester of sucrose consists of glyceryl esters. Mention may be made of the diester of eicosadioic acid and of glycerol esterified with behenic acid. It is especially available under the trade name NOMCORT ^® HK-company G Nisshin OilliO.

[0092] Additional charges

The composition preferably comprises less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably is free of additional fillers.

These fillers are preferably colorless or white.

The particles which constitute it can be porous or not, and be in various forms, in particular in platelet, spherical or oblong form, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.).

In particular, the additional filler may be chosen from lauroyl lysine, boron nitride, silicone microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by Toshiba, for example, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, particles of elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes, glass or ceramic microcapsules, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, magnesium aluminum silicate, such as that sold under the trade name Neusilin ULF2 by the company Fuji Chemical Industry, of the starch, clay or a mixture thereof.

Among the additional fillers, mention may be made of starch, a clay or a mixture thereof.

The starch can be chosen, for example, from a starch of rice, tapioca, potato or corn. Rice starch is preferred, in particular that of the INCI name distarch phosphate sold under the name “Rice PO4 Natural” by the company Agrana Starch. It absorbs very little oils and has a matt appearance and provides softness to the composition of the invention which avoids the squealing side of the particular filler as a mattifying agent.

The clay can be natural or synthetic. It is rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride. It can be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, and vermiculites. Preferably, the clay is chosen from hectorites. As an example of hectorite, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bentone 38V CG by the company ELEMENTIS SPECIALTIES (INCI name disteardimonium hectorite).

[0099] Additional Additives

Apart from the aforementioned constituents, the composition according to the invention can contain various ingredients, such as a UV filter, a vegetable or synthetic butter, a sweetening agent, an antioxidant, a sequestering agent, a pH adjuster, a preservative. , perfumes, vitamins, moisturizers, or a mixture thereof.

The UV filters can in particular be chosen from organic and inorganic filters or a mixture thereof. As organic filters, mention may in particular be made of dibenzoylmethane derivatives (including butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), cinnamic acid derivatives (including ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), salicylates, para-aminobenzoic acids, b, b'-diphenylacrylates, benzophenones, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazoles, triazines, phenylbenzotriazoles and anthranilic derivatives. As inorganic filters, mention may in particular be made of filters based on inorganic oxides in the form of pigments or nanopigments, coated or not, and in particular based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

[0101] The composition of the invention can also contain vegetable butters or butters of synthetic origin. In all cases, these are chosen to avoid adding shine. It is preferred to use butters with a matt appearance, such as mango butter for example.

[0102] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more sweetening agents such as sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, acesulfame K and sodium saccharinate; anti-oxidants such as alkyl or phosphoryl esters of ascorbic acid, or tocopherol and its esters; sequestering agents such as EDTA salts; pH adjusters; preservatives; perfumes ; vitamins ; moisturizers; or a mixture thereof.

[0103] Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 11th Edition, 2006). [0104] Anhydrous composition

Preferably, the composition of the invention is anhydrous. By “anhydrous” is meant in particular that the water is preferably not added deliberately in the compositions but can be present in trace form in the various compounds used in the compositions.

Advantageously, the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably, is free of water.

[0106] Cast composition

Preferably, the composition of the invention is cast, and in particular is in the form of a stick.

[0107] Hardness of the composition

One of the advantages of the composition of the invention is that its texture is homogeneous and creamy and that it remains so over time.

This property of texture stability over time is measured using a hardness measurement.

The cosmetic composition of the invention as defined above can also be characterized in that it has a hardness of between 200 g (grams) and 500 g (grams) and this 1 day after manufacture and after storage for 1 day, 15 days, 1 month and 2 months in an oven at 45 ° C.

The hardness of the composition, which is expressed in grams (g), is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System ”by the company Swantech. The texturometer is equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 1 mm / s and penetrating into the composition to a depth of 3 mm.

[0111] The value of the hardness is the measured compressive force, divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the composition. The samples are hot poured to the brim in a round petri dish of size 60 mm radius and 15 mm height. The samples thus prepared are stored for 24 h to 48 h at 20 ° C. before carrying out the measurement.

The present invention also relates to a solid cosmetic composition as described above, preferably in stick form, characterized in that it comprises:

- 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of lipophilic gelling agent chosen from sucrose polyesters, and preferably sucrose tetrastearate triacetate,

- 7 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a fatty substance having a melting point between 25 ° C and 55 ° C, and preferably of hydrogenated coconut oil

- 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of oil

- 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of coloring agent and

- optionally from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a pasty compound.

[0113] The lipstick composition advantageously has a shiny appearance, a homogeneous and creamy texture, melting on application and having a particularly intense color. These properties of the lipstick composition is evidenced by sensoriality tests.

[0114] Process for preparing the composition

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for the preparation of a composition. This other aspect of the invention is characterized in that a composition is prepared by mixing at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from sucrose polyesters, a fatty substance having a melting point of between 25 ° C. and 55 ° C. ° C, at least one oil, at least one coloring agent, optionally at least one wax in a content of less than 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition obtained according to the process of the invention advantageously exhibits a shiny appearance, a homogeneous and creamy texture, melting on application and exhibiting a particularly intense color. A subject of the present invention is also a process for the preparation of a composition as described above, comprising:

- (1) Grind the pigments, if present, in part of the oil;

- (2) Melt the wax if present, the fatty substance having a melting point of between 25 ° C and 55 ° C, the lipophilic gelling agent chosen from sucrose polyesters, the rest of the oil and the possible pasty compound (e);

- (3) Add to the molten mixture obtained in (2), any coloring agents other than pigments as well as any pigments from step (1) with continuous stirring;

- (4) Optionally add active ingredients or fragrances; and

- (5) Hot pour the composition obtained in step (4) into molds, then allow to cool until solidification.

The following examples are given in order to illustrate the invention. These examples being presented only by way of illustration, the invention can in no way be limited to their subject.

Brief description of the drawings

Fig. 1

[0117] [Fig. 1] illustrates the results of the clinical evaluation, carried out by 3 evaluators trained on standardized photographs of 22 Caucasian women, with regard to the properties of hold, homogeneity, color intensity, intensity of gloss and migration of the composition of Example 1 according to the invention.

Example:

Lipstick compositions of the following formulas (% by weight) were prepared:

[0118] [Table 1]

[0149] Procedure for preparing Example 1 of the invention

- (1) Grind the pigments, previously in part of the oil: diisostearyl malate;

- (2) Melt the wax, the fatty substance having a melting point between 25 ° C and 55 ° C, the lipophilic gelling agent, the rest of the oil and the pasty compound (e);

- (3) Add to the molten mixture obtained in (2), the nacres as well as the pigments from step (1) with continuous stirring;

- (4) Add assets or fragrances; and

- (5) Hot pour the composition obtained in step (4) into molds, then leave to cool until solidification

[0120] Procedure for the preparation of comparative example 2 outside the invention

- (1) Grind the pigments, previously in part of the oil: diisostearyl malate;

- (2) Melt the wax, the rest of the oil and the pasty compound (e);

- (4) Add assets or fragrances; and

[0121] The composition of Example 1 and the comparative composition of Example

2 were sensory-assessed by a panel of 19 trained assessors, who assigned a score out of 10 on the following criteria. The results are shown in Table 2:

[0122] [Table 2]

[0123] The results of these tests show that the composition according to the invention exhibits better slip and gives a feeling of melt on the application which is superior compared to the comparative composition, without degrading the gloss. The deposit obtained is thicker, much more opaque, and the color is more intense up to 5 minutes after application.

[0124] The properties of staying power, homogeneity, color intensity, gloss intensity and migration of the composition of Example 1 according to the invention were also tested. The clinical evaluation was carried out by 3 evaluators trained on standardized photographs of 22 Caucasian women.

[0125] The results are presented in FIG. 1.

[0126] The composition according to the invention exhibits very good properties of staying power, of uniformity, of color intensity, of gloss intensity and of migration, in particular up to 4 hours after application.

Claims

[Claim 1] A solid cosmetic composition comprising:

- at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from sucrose polyesters,

- at least one oil,

- at least one coloring agent

- at least one wax, in a content of less than 9% by weight, preferably from 7 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[Claim 2] Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the sucrose polyester is an ester of sucrose, stearic acid and acetic acid, preferably the lipophilic gelling agent is sucrose tetrastearate triacetate.

[Claim 3] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the lipophilic gelling agent is present in a content of between 5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 4] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fatty substance having a melting point of between 25 and 55 ° C is chosen from hydrogenated castor oil, palm oil. hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil, propylene glycol myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl alcohol and their mixture, and preferably the fatty substance having a melting point between 25 ° C and 55 ° C ° C is hydrogenated coconut oil.

[Claim 5] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the fatty substance having a melting point of between 25 and 55 ° C is present at a content of between 7 and 15% by weight, for example relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 6] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% by weight of volatile oil, and preferably, the composition is free of volatile oil.

[Claim 7] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the oil is present in a content of between 30% and 70% by weight, preferably between 45% and 65% by weight, more preferably between 50% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 8] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises a pasty compound.

[Claim 9] Composition according to any one of Claims 7 or 8, characterized in that the pasty compound is present in a content of between 1% by weight and 40% by weight, preferably between 5% by weight and 30% by weight, even more preferably between 10% by weight and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 10] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the total content of coloring agent is between 0.1% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 11] A composition according to any one of claims 1 to

10, characterized in that the composition is free of lipophilic gelling agent other than the polyester of sucrose.

[Claim 12] A composition according to any one of claims 1 to

January 1, characterized in that it is anhydrous.

[Claim 13] Solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises:

- 7 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a fatty substance having a melting point between 25 ° C and 55 ° C, and preferably of hydrogenated coconut oil - 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of oil

[Claim 14] Process for making up the skin, mucous membranes or integuments comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.