WO2019069036A1 - Solid cosmetic composition comprising a wax and/or a paste compound and at least one anti-exudation filler - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject matter of the invention is a solid cosmetic composition comprising at least one wax and/or one paste compound, at least one oil, and at least one anti-exudation filler, characterised in that the anti-exudation filler is chosen from particles having at least one surface asperity of variable geometry, the greatest length of which is between 10 nm and 1 μm, and having a specific surface area of less than 30 m2/g, preferably less than 20 m2/g, even more preferably less than 10 m2/g and even more preferably less than 5 m 2/g. The invention also relates to a method for applying make-up to the skin and/or the lips and/or skin appendages using the composition, and to the use of an anti-exudation filler to prevent the exudation of cosmetic compositions comprising at least one wax and/or one paste compound and at least one oil.

Description

 SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A WAX AND / OR A PASTY COMPOUND AND AT LEAST ONE ANTI-EXUDUSING LOAD

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic makeup or skincare composition for keratin materials, in particular for the lips, which is in solid form and comprises at least one wax and / or a pasty compound, at least one oil, and at least one filler. anti-exudation.

Solid compositions, especially of the hot-cast type, for example lipstick sticks, generally comprise waxes and pasty compounds giving them a texture that is both solid and creamy on application. In the process for preparing these products, all the fatty constituents, that is to say the waxes, the pastes and the oils are heated beyond their melting point so as to obtain a homogeneous liquid mixture. The powdery phases are then added to this liquid mixture when they are present, and the composition thus obtained is cast into a mold which is allowed to cool until a solid product is obtained.

The pasty compounds used in the hot-cast type solid compositions often have a melting point close to room temperature so as to melt when the solid composition is brought into contact with the keratin materials. In this way, the composition has good sliding properties upon application, spreads easily and homogeneously on keratin materials and provides a creamy feel to the application.

The waxes used in turn have melting points that are often higher than the pastes for structuring the composition in a solid form. However, the process of preparation in which they are heated beyond their melting point sometimes leads to changes in their structure, which can sometimes lower their melting point. Thus, when the waxes used initially have a melting point around 30 ° C to 60 ° C, they can have their melting point lowered from 5 ° C to 10 ° C when melted and cast.

Solid lipstick cosmetics can, during their lifetime, be exposed to significant variations in temperature when used by consumers. These temperature variations cause exudation of the products which soften considerably when raising the temperature between 25 ° C and 45 ° C. Small droplets of liquid fatty substance with a diameter of between 20μιη and a few hundreds of microns are formed on the surface of the product, and are then reabsorbed by the product in a time ranging from a few minutes to a few hours depending on the formulation and the temperature at which the product was exposed, leaving the surface of the product produces halos that significantly alter its appearance. This exudation induced by the melting of certain fatty substances causes transient damage to the micro structure of the product and then recrystallization, which generates problems of stability of the composition.

It is thus desirable to provide solid hot-cast type cosmetic compositions having good textural properties which are both solid and creamy but do not pose problems of exudation when they are subjected to temperature variations during their production. use by consumers.

It is also desirable that these solid cosmetic compositions furthermore do not harden during storage or use time.

The subject of the invention is precisely a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials such as the skin and / or the lips of the face, making it possible to satisfy all the requirements mentioned above.

More specifically, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil, at least one wax and / or a pasty compound, and at least one anti-exudation filler.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" means any cosmetic composition that does not flow under its own weight.

More particularly, this type of cosmetic composition is still referred to as "cast composition" as opposed to so-called fluid compositions. These compositions are characterized by a creamy, pasty or solid appearance at room temperature (20-25 ° C).

Thus, a cosmetic composition may be in accordance with the invention from the moment it has a melting point greater than 25 ° C., in particular between 25 ° C. and 60 ° C. and in particular between 30 ° C. and 45 ° C. C and / or a hardness between 0.00 IMPa and 5MPa, in particular between 0.005MPa and IMPa. The composition of the invention may be in the form of paste, solid or cream. It can be a simple emulsion of oil-in-water or water-in-oil type or a multiple emulsion, a gel, solid or flexible. Preferably, it is in form anhydrous, and more particularly in the form of anhydrous gel, especially cast in stick or cup.

In particular, the present invention aims to cover a lipstick comprising at least one oil, at least one wax and / or a pasty compound, and at least one antiexsudation charge.

An anti-exudation filler is a filler capable of being able to absorb the liquid fatty substances that may appear in the composition of lipstick during the temperature variation, without affecting the hardness of said composition and this throughout the duration of the product life. Indeed, any variation in the hardness of the composition causes degradation of the texture of the final product. In the prior art, it is known to use absorbent fillers such as silica to avoid these phenomena of exudation. However, these fillers affect the hardness of the composition, in particular over time. The Applicant has demonstrated that the use of particles having both a specific surface within a certain range and having surface roughness of defined size allowed to solve this specific problem of exudation without affecting the hardness of the compositions.

The present invention also relates, in another of its aspects, to a cosmetic process for the care, make-up of the skin or the lips of the face of human beings, including the application to the skin or the lips of the face of human beings, a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

The present invention also aims to protect, in another of its aspects, the use of an anti-exudation filler in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil, and a wax and / or a pasty compound to avoid or reduce the exudation.

Surprisingly, the inventors have thus found that the use of an anti-exudation filler makes it possible to obtain solid cosmetic compositions, especially in the form of a stick, the application of which on the skin, in particular the lips, leads to a film matt or glossy, comfortable, non-tacky, of good coverage, non-migrating, and creamy, in particular of stable hardness over time while showing good resistance to significant variations in temperature, high temperatures, especially greater than about 30 ° C as illustrated in the examples. Thus, it is possible to obtain a composition that remains macroscopically homogeneous, with no evidence of exudation, even in a humid atmosphere, for at least 2 months at about 25 ° C. or above, in particular at about 30 ° C., in particular at about 45 ° C. C, and under atmospheric pressure. Description of figures

 FIG. 1 illustrates an anti-exudation charge representation with a surface relief and the opening on its greatest length symbolized by d. Figure 2 illustrates the microscopic reflection observations of the surface of a no-load control product and products with different types of feedstock tested during isothermal heating at 25 ° C, 35 ° C and 45 ° C of these products after ripening. 8 days at 20 ° C.

FIG. 3 illustrates the microscopic observations in reflection of the surface of the product of Example 8 according to the invention during the isothermal heating at 30 ° C., 35 ° C., 40 ° C. and 45 ° C. of this product after a maturation of 2 months at 25 ° C.

The anti-exudation charge

By charge is meant solid particles intended to be dispersed in the medium of the composition and which remain insoluble in this medium, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured and stored.

The anti-exudation filler of the invention is a particle having a surface relief which is characterized by its size, surface roughness and surface area.

The surface of the load is not united. It has irregularities such as surface roughness. The surface roughness is either positive, such as a bump or an edge, or negative such as a pore.

The anti-exudation charge has at least one surface roughness of variable geometry whose greatest length is between 10 nm and 1 μιη. By variable geometry, it is understood, in the sense of the present application, that the surface roughness is either positive or negative, it being understood that for a negative roughness (pore) the greatest length is measured by the distance between two opposite points of the negative asperity, and for a positive asperity (bump or edge) the greatest length is measured by the distance between two peaks of contiguous asperities.

Thus, the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising at least one wax and / or a pasty compound, at least one oil and at least one anti-exudation filler, characterized in that the anti-exudation filler is chosen from particles having at least one surface roughness of variable geometry, the largest of which length is between 10 nanometers and Ιμιη and having a specific surface area less than

30 m 2 / g, preferably less than 20 m 2 / g, even more preferably less than 10 m 2 / g and even more advantageously less than 5 m / g. The anti-exudation charge preferably has at least one surface roughness of variable geometry, the greatest length of which is between 10 nm and 300 nm. The anti-exudation filler can then avoid the phenomena of exudation in rigid cosmetic compositions of the classic lipstick type such as sticks or more flexible such as cast glosses. The anti-exudation charge has, in a particular embodiment, at least one surface roughness of variable geometry, the greatest length of which is between 10 nm and 50 nm and preferably between 10 nm and 20 nm. The anti-exudation filler can then avoid the phenomena of exudation in rigid cosmetic compositions of the classic lipstick type such as sticks or more flexible such as cast glosses.

In another particular embodiment, the anti-exudation filler has at least one surface roughness of variable geometry, the greatest length of which is between 100 nm and 300 nm and preferably between 100 nm and 200 nm. The antiexsudation filler can then avoid the phenomena of exudation in rigid cosmetic compositions of the classic lipstick type such as sticks or more flexible gloss type cast.

The size of the anti-exudation filler used measured by taking the farthest extremities of the particle is between 1 micron (μιη) and 30 microns (μιη).

The specific surface of the anti-exudation filler used is less than 30 m ² / g, preferably the specific surface area is less than 20 m ² / g, even more preferably the specific surface area is less than 10 m ² / g and so even more advantageous the specific surface is less than 5 m / g.

Among the anti-exudation fillers that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of magnesium carbonate powders, in particular basic magnesium carbonate of formula (MgCO ₃ ) ₃ Mg (OH) 2.3 H ₂ 0 or of formula (MgCO 3) _{3) 4} .MG (OH) ₂ .5H ₂ 0 or the normal magnesium carbonate of formula (MgC0 ₃₎ .xH ₂ 0. There may be mentioned in particular magnesium carbonate sold by the company ICL Industrial Products under the name of "basic magnesium carbonate". Particles are present at sizes between 5 μιη and 25 μιη, they have a shape of sand roses and their specific surface is about 4 m / g. It has positive surface roughnesses whose greatest length is between 10 nm and 1 μιη. Among the anti-exudation fillers that can be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of diatomaceous earths.

There may be mentioned in particular the diatomaceous earth marketed by Imerys under the name Imercare® 03D diatom. The particles are present in sizes between 2 μιη and 5 μιη, they have various shapes and their specific surface is about 12 m / g. They have at least one surface roughness of variable geometry whose greatest length is between 10 nm and 1 μιη.

Mention may also be made of the diatomaceous earth marketed by Imerys under the name Imercare® diode 400D. The particles are present in sizes of between 15 μιη and 25 μιη, they have various shapes and their specific surface is about 19 m / g.

Among the diatomaceous earths, those marketed by Imerys under the name Imercare® 03D diatom are preferred.

Examples of non-exudation anti-exudation fillers given as comparative examples in this application are platelet magnesium carbonate and tubular magnesium carbonate.

Platelet magnesium carbonate is in the form of a heterogeneous dispersion in particle size of diameter between 1 μιη and 20 μιη. The specific surface area is about 30.4 m 2 / g. It is an agglomerate of platelets. The particles do not have surface roughness of variable geometry whose greatest length is between 10 nm and 1 μιη.

The tubular magnesium carbonate is in the form of a very homogeneous dispersion in particle size in the form of tubes 30 μιη long, and internal diameter of the tube 3μιη. It has a negative surface roughness whose greatest length is 3 μιη therefore outside the scope of the invention. The specific surface is about 107 m ² / g. The anti-exudation filler may be used as it is or may be surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent.

Among the hydrophobic agents there may be mentioned silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9- ₁₅ fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone, mixed copolymers C ^ s fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicones, lecithin, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate.

Preferably the anti-exudation filler is used as such, that is to say without hydrophobic treatment.

According to the invention, the anti-exudation filler is present in a proportion of between 1% and 20% and preferably between 1% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

oil

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and which, when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C. C is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to less than 10% by weight, based on the weight of oil introduced into the water.

In the context of the present invention, the term "oil" also includes lipophilic fats which are capable of undergoing a reversible liquid / solid change and have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, but which are different from waxes by the fact they contain, at a temperature of 23 ° C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. A compound of this type is especially a mixture of sterol esters, such as the mixture of cholesterol and lanosterol ester available from the manufacturer CRODA under the trade name Super Sterol Ester®.

Non-volatile oil

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which has a boiling point generally greater than 300 ° C. at 760 mmHg (101325 Pa) and which has little or no vapor pressure. According to a preferred embodiment, the oil used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from non-volatile oils, in particular from nonvolatile silicone or hydrocarbon oils or their mixture. The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

Non-volatile silicone oils that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes whose alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and oils identified by the INCI name phenyl trimethicone.

By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms.

There may be mentioned, for example, hydrocarbons such as squalane, phytosqualane, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, synthetic (poly) esters, also known as "ester oils" and (poly) ethers, in particular (poly) esters of C6-C20 acids and of C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate; vegetable oils; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; and their mixtures.

The term "ester oil" means a mono-, di-, tri- or tetraester oil. The ester oils are obtained by reacting a mono-, di-, tri- and more generally a polyol with a monodistrict and more generally a polycarboxylic acid, said reagents being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated , aliphatic or aromatic, and may optionally include alkoxylated groups. The ester oils may in particular be hydroxylated. In particular, the non-volatile ester oil may comprise from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

The non-volatile ester oil may especially be chosen from:

monoesters comprising 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 6 to 20 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, neopentanoate isodecyl, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate of 2 -hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

diesters comprising from 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular from 18 to 50 carbon atoms, such as diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate; glycol and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate;

triersters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as triester carboxylic triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; or the triesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate; tetraesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters and a monocarboxylic acid, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, 2-tridecyltetradecanoate, glyceryl, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate;

the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as the polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol;

diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as dimer diol fatty acid esters and dimer diol and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular those obtained from a dimer of an unsaturated fatty acid C8 to C34, in particular C12 to C22, in particular C16 to C20, and more particularly to C18, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and dimer dilinoleic diols, for example those marketed by the NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), in particular of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acids or octanoic or jojoba oil; saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate; the C 8 -C 36 acid triglycerides, such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois); and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;

- and their mixtures.

When it is desired to obtain a composition with a matt result, the nonvolatile oil used in the present invention is preferably a low gloss oil. A low-gloss oil is called an oil whose refractive index is less than 1.46, preferably less than 1.45, and even more preferably less than 1.44.

The refractive index is measured using an ABBE paralux refractometer reference 60-6400-9.

Among the low-gloss oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of synthetic polyesters and (poly) ethers, in particular C6-C20 acid (poly) esters and of C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate; di (C 6 -C 20) alkylcarbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold by BASF under the name Cetiol CC; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; polyol polyesters, in particular (di) pentaerythritol, such as pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 5 cSt (centistokes) and 100 cSt; and their mixtures.

Among the low-gloss oils that can be used in the invention, the oils of low viscosity are preferably used. By low viscosity means a viscosity of less than 1000 Pa.s, preferably less than 500 Pa.s, even more preferably less than 100 Pa.s and even more advantageously less than 50 Pa.s.

The viscosity is measured using a Gemini rheometer sold by Malvern Instruments. A measurement is made in rotation in constrained sweep from 0.0 lPa to 1000Pa. A quilt system with coaxial cylinders 25 mm in diameter (C25) with a 150 micron gap at a temperature of 20 ° C is used. The value indicated for each oil is the average obtained on several points of the plateau. Among these low gloss and low viscosity oils include isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate or a mixture thereof.

The use of low viscosity oils makes it possible to incorporate more particular filler as an anti-exudation agent and more pigments and thus to obtain a color that is both matte and intense.

When it is desired to obtain a composition with a glossy result, the non-volatile oil used is preferably a glossy oil. A gloss oil is called an oil with a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.46. Among the brilliant oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of polybutene.

It is also possible to use an additional non-volatile oil to provide additional properties to the composition of the invention.

By way of example, diisostearyl malate can be added because it makes it possible to obtain a good dispersion of the pigments. Other additional oils can be added to improve the sensory properties of the formula.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil introduced into the composition according to the invention is a mixture of isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate and diisostearyl malate. The non-volatile oil is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 40% and 80% by weight, preferably between 45% and 70% by weight, more preferably between 50% and 60% by weight. , relative to the weight of the composition.

Volatile oil By "volatile oil" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa. (0.001 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more preferably still ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 at 1000 mmHg).

 Volatile oils include volatile silicone oils and / or volatile hydrocarbon oils.

 The volatile silicone oils optionally used in the compositions of the invention are linear or cyclic, in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and have a viscosity, at room temperature. ambient, less than 5 cSt.

 As examples of volatile silicone oils, mention may be made more particularly of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane and the like. octylheptamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

As regards the volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made more particularly of a short-chain hydrocarbon oil, volatile linear alkanes such as for example described in document FR2933865 incorporated by reference.

 By way of examples of short chain hydrocarbon oil (s), it may especially be that selected from the group comprising isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and dodecane, and mixtures thereof. .

 By way of example of volatile linear alkanes, mention may be made of those having hydrocarbon chains in:

 C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

 C15-19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15,

C12-14, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC,

 C 9-12 alkane, such as those marketed by Daito under the name Makigreen

D10.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the volatile oil composition and preferably is free of volatile oil. Wax

The term "wax" refers to a liquid / solid reversible change fat having a melting temperature above 30 ° C and generally below 110 ° C, which is liquid under the preparation conditions of the composition and which exhibits an crystalline anisotropic solid state.

 The wax suitable for the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprises at least one polar wax and / or at least one apolar wax.

 By polar wax is meant a wax comprising at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

 In particular, the polar wax may be chosen from the group comprising beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, rice bran wax, bay wax, wax of Chinese insect, montan wax, lanolin and its derivatives alcohols, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax, l polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswaxes marketed by Koster Keunen under the trade name Kester Wax K82H, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of plant ester waxes chosen from the group comprising the mixture of jojoba esters, of polyglycerin-3, of Acacia decurrens flower wax and of sunflower seed wax, said mixture being marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Acticire®, the jojoba esters marketed by Floratech under the trade name Floraesters 60 or Floraesters 70, the alkyl esters or hydrogenated alkyl esters sold by Sophim under the trade name Phytowax, for example the hydrogenated lauroyl oleate esters marketed under the name Phytowax Olive 12L44.

By apolar wax is meant a hydrocarbon wax and / or a silicone wax.

 The term "apolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

Examples of suitable hydrocarbon apolar waxes in the compositions of the invention include polyethylene wax, sold by New Phase Technologies under the name Performalene 400 (P400) or by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jeenate 3H, a linear polyethylene blend. top molecular weight and ethylene / propylene copolymer, marketed by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20, a synthetic wax sold by Sasol under the name Sasol Wax C80, synthetic waxes and vegetable waxes, for example a mixture of synthetic wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smart wax 202, a mixture of synthetic wax, Candelilla wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smartwax 7743S, Fischer Tropsch waxes marketed by Cirebelle under the name Cirebelle 303, and mixtures thereof.

 The term "apolar silicone wax" means a wax comprising a silicon heteroatom.

 Examples of suitable apolar waxes of silicon in the compositions of the invention include C20-24 alkyl dimethicone, sold by Siltech under the name Silwax D2024, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, marketed by Evonik Industries AG under the name Abil Wax, and their mixtures.

More particularly, according to another embodiment of the invention, the wax is chosen from the group comprising beeswax, polyethylene wax, marketed by New Phase Technologies under the name Performalene 400 (P400) or by Jeen International. Corporation under the name Jeenate 3H, a mixture of linear polyethylene of high molecular weight and ethylene / propylene copolymer, marketed by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20, a synthetic wax marketed by Sasol under the name Sasol Wax C80, a mixture of linear polyethylene of high molecular weight and of ethylene / propylene copolymer, marketed by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20,

 According to one embodiment of the invention, the wax is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content of between 1% and 30%, preferably between 5% and 25%, the percentages being percentages by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

Paste compounds

The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise a pasty compound which may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds polymeric fluorinated compounds or non-vinyl polymers, in particular:

• homopolymers of olefins

• olefin copolymers

• homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes

Linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group

Homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups

Homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, the fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols, beeswax and dimer mixtures; octyldodecanol such as that marketed under the name Zenibee Cream by Zenitech, esters, vegetable butters such as mango butter, shea butter, cocoa, cotton, avocado ... blends.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters derived from the reaction of C 10 -C 30 acids with a mixture of cholesterol and lanosterol, the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the acid condensates adipic acid and glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12- hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, the arachidyl propionate marketed under the trade name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, phytosterol esters such as the product answering the name INCI

"Phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl / isostearyl lauroyl glutamate" sold under the name Eldew-PS308 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, for example the mixture of stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate marketed under the name DUB Stéarinerie Dubois solid, pentaerythritol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, the aliphatic esters of ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid such as the cetyl lactate marketed under the name Cérphyl 28 by ISP (International Specialty Products), the polyesters resulting from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, an aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as Risocast DA-H ® and Risocast DA-L ® products, and mixtures thereof.

Among the pasty compounds, the esters derived from the reaction of C10-C30 acids with a mixture of cholesterol and lanosterol and the triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, for example the mixture of stearyl heptanoate and of stearyl caprylate marketed under the name solid DUB by Stéarinerie Dubois, mixtures of beeswax and octyldodecanol such as that sold under the name Zenibee Cream by Zenitech, ester aliphatic esters resulting from esterification an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid such as cetyl lactate sold under the name Cérphyl 28 by ISP (International Specialty Products), or a mixture thereof. The composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of pasty compounds of between 1% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 5% and 30%, and more preferably between 10% and 20%.

Structuring agent other than waxes and / or pasty compounds

 The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one structuring agent other than the previously described waxes and / or pasty compounds, such as, for example, a silicone resin or a lipophilic gelling agent.

By way of example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula

 [(CH 3) 3 SiO] x (SiO 4/2) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH 3 SiO 3/2) .x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted with a group R as defined above,

 polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such

 polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those marketed by Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK:

 polymer comprising CH 3 SiO 3/2 repeating units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH 3) 2 SiO 2/2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000, by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3S003 / 2 and have Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or also under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups.

As siloxysilicate resins, there may be mentioned trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the reference SRIOOO by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by Wacker. Mention may also be made of the timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company

Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by Dow Corning.

The lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of fumed silica optionally treated with hydrophobic surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 μιη. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company

 DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT.

The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES , SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1 to C6 alkyl and in particular C1 to C3 alkyl chains and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO company under the name Versagel® such as the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960) or in hydrogenated polyisobutene (Versagel ME 2000).

 Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of polyamide resins or poly (ester-amide) resins, such as ester-terminated polyamides (ETPAs), ester-terminated poly (ester-amides), and tertiary amide terminated polyamides (ATPA), polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides (PAOPA) or polyether polyamides (PEPA).

 Examples of ester-terminated polyamides (ETPAs) are those identified by the INCI name "Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer" and available, for example, under the trade name Uniclear® 100VG from Arizona Chemical.

 Examples of ester-terminated poly (ester-amides) are those identified by the INCI name polyamide-8 which are "ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl dibenzoate copolymers" and available, for example under the trade name Oloecraft® LP-20-PA-MV from Croda.

 Examples of tertiary amide terminated polyamides (ATPA) are those identified by the INCI name "Ethylenediamine / Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide hydrogenated dimeric diilinoate copolymer" and available, for example, under the tradename Sylvaclear® A200V or Sylvaclear® A2614V from Arizona Chemical or those identified by the INCI name "diisostearyl malate and bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylenediamine" and available, for example, under the trade name Haimalate PAM from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.

Examples of polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides (PAOPA) are those identified by the INCI name Polyamide-3 and available, for example, under the name Sylvaclear® AF1900V, Sylvaclear® PE1800V and Sylvaclear® PA1200V from Arizona Chemical. Examples of polyether polyamides (PEPA) are those identified by the INCI name

Polyamide-6 and available, for example, under the name Sylvaclear® PE400V from Arizona Chemical. Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent is N-acyl glutamic acid diamides. Mention may in particular be made of an N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a straight chain alkyl group such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and an N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a branched chain alkyl group, such as dibutylethylhexanoyl glutamide. . Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide is commercially available as GP-1 and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide is commercially available as EB-21, and both are marketed by Ajinomoto.

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of dextrin esters. Esters of dextrin and fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate, may be mentioned. Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of sucrose esters. Mention may be made of sucrose esters of fatty acids, such as sucrose tetrastearate triacetate available under the trade name Sisterna® A10E-C from the company Sisterna.

Another type of polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agent consists of glyceryl esters. The diester of eicosadioic acid and of glycerol esterified with behenic acid may be mentioned. It is in particular available under the trade name NOMCORT HK-G from NISSHIN OILLIO.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 30% by weight of structuring agents other than waxes and / or pasty compounds, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight. % or even better, 5% to 20%.

Additional charges

 The composition of the invention may also contain other fillers.

 These fillers are preferably colorless or white.

 The particles which constitute it may be porous or non-porous, and may be in various forms, in particular in platelet, spherical or oblong form, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

They are chosen so as not to disturb the desired result. Thus they are chosen so as not to absorb the oils to avoid hardening the composition obtained.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, they are chosen so as not to bring brilliance to obtain a matte result.

In particular, the additional filler may be chosen from lauroyl lysine, boron nitride and silicone microbeads such as those marketed under the name Tospearl by Toshiba, for example, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydroxyapatite and polyorganosiloxane particles. elastomers, glass or ceramic microcapsules, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, magnesium aluminum silicate such as that sold under the trade name Neusilin ULF2 by the company Fuji Chemical Industry, starch, a clay and their mixture.

Among the additional fillers, starch and clay are preferred.

The starch may be chosen for example from a starch of rice, tapioca, potato or maize. Rice starch, in particular that of INCI name distarch phosphate marketed under the name Rice P04 Natural® by Agrana Starch, is preferred. It absorbs very little oil and has a matte appearance and provides a softness to the composition of the invention which avoids the creasing side of the particular filler as an anti-exudation agent.

The starch may be present in the composition of lipstick in an amount of between 2.0% and 10.0% by weight, preferably between 6.0% and 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The clay can be natural or synthetic. It is rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. It may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, and vermiculites. Preferably, the clay is chosen from hectorites. By way of example of hectorite, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bentone 38V CG by the company ELEMENTIS SPECIES (INCI name disteardimonium hectorite) or that sold under the trade name Cosmedia gel CC® by the company BASF. It has the advantage of reinforcing the matifying effect while having a role of rheology modifier. It may be present in a proportion of between 0.1% and 4% and preferably between 0.5% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Additives

Apart from the aforementioned constituents, the composition according to the invention may contain various ingredients, such as a coloring agent, a UV filter, and mixtures thereof.

The coloring agent may especially be chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, lacquers, and mixtures thereof. These coloring agents may optionally be surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9- ₁₅ fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone, mixed copolymers C ^ s fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicones, lecithins, wax carnauba, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate. The pigments can be mineral or organic, natural or synthetic.

Examples of inorganic pigments are in particular titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zinc or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarines, ferric ferrocyanide called Prussian blue, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic pigments, pearls , interferential, photochromic or thermochromic, without this list being exhaustive.

Examples of organic pigments that can be used in the invention are, in particular, carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum lakes, or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP). ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

The nacres can be chosen from those conventionally present in make-up products, such as mica / titanium dioxide. Alternatively, it may be nacres based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide ^(® SUNSHINE from Maprecos), sodium calcium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS® ENGELHARD ) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR ^® from MERCK). Advantageously, when it contains one or more pigments, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one dispersant such as diisostearyl malate mentioned above. The coloring agents are present in the composition in a content of between 5% and 8%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The UV filters may especially be chosen from organic and inorganic filters and their mixtures. As organic filters, there may be mentioned in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives (including butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), cinnamic acid derivatives (including ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), salicylates, para-aminobenzoic acids, β, β'-diphenylacrylates, benzophenones, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazoles, triazines, phenylbenzotriazoles and anthranilic derivatives. As inorganic filters, there may be mentioned mineral oxide based filters in the form of pigments or nanopigments, coated or not, and in particular based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more sweetening agents such as sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, acesulfame K and sodium saccharinate; antioxidants such as alkyl esters or phosphorylated ascorbic acid, or tocopherol and its esters; sequestering agents such as EDTA salts; pH adjusters; conservatives; perfumes ; vitamins ; moisturizing agents; and their mixtures.

Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 1st Edition, 2006).

Matte or glossy appearance of the composition

The matte or glossy appearance of the lipstick composition is evidenced by a gloss measurement.

The composition of the invention spread on a 500 micron thick white-field contrast card using an automatic spreader has a gloss value measured at 85 ° using a gloss meter under the name micro-TRI. -gloss or PICOGLOSS 503 sold by BYK less than 30, preferably less than 20, even more preferably less than 10. The value of the brightness is obtained by the average of 3 measurements taken at three different points of the contrast card.

Hardness of the Composition One of the advantages of the composition of the invention is that its texture is homogeneous and creamy and that it remains it over time.

This property of stability of the texture over time is measured by a measurement of hardness.

The cosmetic composition of the invention as defined above can be further characterized in that it has a hardness of less than 300 g (grams) and this 1 day after manufacture and after a storage of 1 day, 15 days, 1 month and 3 months in an oven at 45 ° C.

The hardness of the composition, which is expressed in grams (g), is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System". by Swantech. The texturometer is equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of lmm / s and penetrating the composition to a depth of 3 mm.

 The value of the hardness is the measured compression force, divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the composition. The samples are cast hot and to the brim in a round petri dish of size 60 mm radius and 15 mm height. The samples thus prepared are stored for 24 hours to 48 hours at 20 ° C before taking the measurement. The present invention also relates to a composition comprising:

 From 1% to 20% by weight of anti-exudation filler with respect to the total weight of the composition

 From 5% to 8% by weight of coloring agent relative to the total weight of the composition

 - From 10% to 30% and preferably from 15% to 25% by weight of wax and / or pasty compound relative to the total weight of the composition

 - From 40% to 80%, and preferably from 45% to 70% and even more preferably from 50% to 60% of oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

Process The present invention also aims to provide a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition. This other aspect of the invention is characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing at least one anti-exudation filler associated with at least one oil and at least one wax and / or a pasty compound. A cosmetic composition obtained according to the process of the invention advantageously has a homogeneous and creamy texture and remains so over time in particular despite significant temperature variations.

The present invention also aims to provide a process for the preparation of a composition comprising the following steps:

 - (1) grind the pigments, if present, previously in a part of the oil;

 - (2) Melt the wax and / or the pasty compound and the rest of the oil;

 - (3) Add to the molten mixture obtained in (2), the anti-exudation charge, and any additional fillers, any coloring agents other than pigments and any pigments of step (1) with continuous stirring;

 - (4) Optionally add the assets or fragrances; and

 - (5) Hot pour the composition obtained in step (4) in molds, then allow to cool until solidification.

The gloss and hardness measurements and the exudation tests are then carried out.

use

The present invention also relates to the use of anti-exudation filler to prevent or prevent the exudation of cosmetic compositions comprising at least one wax and / or a pasty compound.

The following examples are given to illustrate the invention. These examples being presented by way of illustration, the invention can in no way be limited to their object.

Example I Preparation of gloss glosses cast in a cup

Table 1

Operating mode:

The waxes and / or pastes and / or lipophilic gelling agents and oily ingredients are melted and the anti-exudation and additional charges are added with continuous stirring. Finally, we can add appropriate assets or fragrances. It is then poured hot in molds. Then it is demolded after cooling.

Example II: PREPARATION OF MATT LIP RED

Lipstick compositions of the following formulas (% by weight) are prepared:

Table 2

 invention

Ex8 function Ingredient COMMERCIAL NAME (%) wax Copolymer LIPWAX PZ80-20 11,10 ethylene / propylene and wax

 synthetic

wax CASTORWAX MP 80 Hydrocarbon Castor Oil 3.46 wax BEZEL NATURAL Wax CERABEIL 5.00 wax Jojoba Esters FLORA ESTERS 60 - wax Synthetic Wax SASOL WAX C80 - Butyrospermum Parkii Pastes (Shea LIPEX SHEA - butter) & citric acid

pasty Ethylhexyl palmitate & MAXI-LIP

 tribehenin & sorbitan isostearate

 & palmitoyl tripeptide- 1

oil Isononyl isononanoate DUB ININ 17.54 oil Diisostearyl malate SALACOS 222 17.68 carbon Dicaprilyl oil CETIOL CC 12.8 carbon Dicaprilyl thickener (8.56%) and COSMEDIA GEL CC 9.82 stearalkonium hectorite (0.98%)

 and propylene carbonate (0.29%)

active Tocopheryl acetate DL-ALPHA- 0.5

 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE

 Magnesium silicate aluminum charge NEUSILIN ULF2 1.00 additional

 Polymethylsilsesquioxane charge TOSPEARL 2000B - complementary

 Starch starch octenylsuccinate starch AMIDON M DF 12S - complementary

dye agent Pigments 7.00 perfume Fragrance 0.08 basic magnesium carbonate charge Basic magnesium carbonate 14.0 the invention of ICL Industrial products

Total Total Composition: 100 Operating mode:

The pigments are ground beforehand in part of the oily ingredients. Then, the waxes and / or pastes and / or lipophilic gelling agents and the rest of the oily ingredients are melted separately and the anti-exudation and additional charges and then the ground pigments are added to the above mixture with continuous stirring. Finally, we can add appropriate assets or fragrances. It is then poured hot in molds. Then it is demolded after cooling.

EXAMPLE III SPECIFIC SURFACE MEASUREMENTS OF ANTI-EXUDUSING LOADS

The specific surface measurements of the anti-exudation charges are carried out using a BET tristar IL measuring device. The method is based on the adsorption of the nitrogen molecules on the surface and in the pores of the sample. low temperature powder (nitrogen liquefaction temperature: 77 ° K). The specific surface is expressed in m ² / g.

Table 3

EXAMPLE IV Exudation Test 1) Gloss Results Cast in Pellets of Example I FIG. 2 illustrates microscopic observations in reflection of the surface of a control product without anti-exudation charge (a), of products according to the invention comprising 15% of anti-exudation fillers (untreated magnesium basic carbonate (b) or treated (c), diatomaceous earths 03D (d) and 400D (e)), and products outside the invention comprising 15% non-invention fillers (platelet magnesium carbonate PE (f) and tubular magnesium carbonate (g)) during the isothermal heating at 25 ° C., 35 ° C. and 45 ° C. of these products after maturation for 8 days at 20 ° C. corresponding to the gloss glosses cast in a cup of Example I.

 After pouring the product into wells and cooling to room temperature, the products are placed in an oven at 20 ° C for 8 days.

The first test carried out consists in placing the buckets in a controlled temperature chamber allowing observations of the exsudation phenomena in optical microscopy with a spatial resolution of 5μιη.

Heating to 25 ° C in the chamber of the control composition (without antiexudation charges) led to the formation of drops on the product surface after just a few minutes when heated to 25 ° C (Figure 2a). The drops enlarge during heating to reach a size ranging from 20μιη to ΙΟΟμιη, then fade after a period of time of several hours, during their re-aspiration into the micro structure of the product. The removal of the drops leaves halos on the surface and contributes to degrade the product. The exudation increases with the heating temperature between 25 ° C and 45 ° C (Figure 2a).

The presence of the anti-exudation fillers in the compositions according to the invention (untreated or treated magnesium basic carbonate and diatomaceous earths 03D and 400D) considerably reduces the exudation during the isothermal heating of the product at 25 ° C., 35 ° C. C or 45 ° C (Figures 2b, 2c, 2d and 2e). Only a very slight exudation in the form of liquid microdrops with a diameter of about 5 μιη to 10 μιη was observed on the surface of the product comprising the anti-exudation fillers according to the invention. The anti-exudation fillers also accelerate the shrinkage of microdroplets during the process of recrystallization of the fats at 35 ° C or 45 ° C, in a time of 10 to 20 minutes. Controlled exudation in the presence of anti-exudation fillers according to the invention thus contributes to preventing degradation of the product surface.

The presence of the charges outside the invention (PE platelet magnesium carbonate and tubular magnesium carbonate) does not contribute to reducing the exudation for PE magnesium carbonate (FIG. 2f) and even increases the exudation in the case of the carbonate of magnesium carbonate. tubular magnesium (Figure 2g). The drops fade after a lapse of time of several hours to several tens of hours.

The product according to the invention comprising 15% anti-exudation fillers has a texture that is both solid and creamy, with good slip properties upon application. During storage, the stick does not pose problems of exudation, even when subjected to temperature variations between 20 ° C and 45 ° C.

2) Results of the Matte Lipstick of Example II

 FIG. 3 illustrates the microscopic observations in reflection of the surface of the product of Example 8 according to the invention comprising 15% of anti-exudation fillers (untreated magnesium basic carbonate) during the isothermal heating at 30 ° C., 35 ° C. C, 40 ° C and 45 ° C of these products after a maturation of 2 months at 25 ° C corresponding to the lipstick lip of example IL

 After pouring the product into cups and cooling to room temperature, the products are placed in an oven at 25 ° C. for 2 months.

 The first test carried out consists in placing the buckets in a controlled temperature chamber allowing observations of the exsudation phenomena in optical microscopy with a spatial resolution of 5μιη.

 The exudation of the product of Example 8 according to the invention with 15% antiexsudation charges (untreated magnesium carbonate) remains non-existent after storing the products for only two weeks at 25 ° C. and then heating at a temperature between 30 ° C and 45 ° C.

A possible micro -ex sweating appears on the surface of the product of Example 8 after only two months of storage products at 25 ° C (Figure 3). The presence of anti-exudation fillers in the product of Example 8 according to the invention (untreated magnesium basic carbonate) considerably reduces the exudation during the isothermal heating of the product at 30 ° C., 35 ° C., 40 ° C. or 45 ° C (Figure 32b). Only a very slight exudation in the form of liquid microdrops with a diameter of less than about 5 μιη was observed during heating at 45 ° C. to the surface of the product of Example 8 comprising the antiexsudation fillers according to the invention. Controlled exudation in the presence of untreated magnesium carbonate fillers according to the invention thus contributes to preventing degradation of the product surface. The product according to the invention comprising 15% anti-exudation fillers (untreated magnesium carbonate) has a solid texture. During conservation, the stick does not poses no problems of exudation, even when subjected to temperature variations between 30 ° C and 45 ° C. Example V- Brightness and Hardness Measurements

Measurement of brightness

The lipstick composition prepared in Example II is spread on a contrast map with a white background to a thickness of 500 microns thanks to an automatic spreader having a gloss value measured at 85 ° using a gloss meter under the name micro-TRI-gloss or PICOGLOSS 503 sold by BYK.

The value of the brightness is obtained by the average of 3 measurements taken at three different points of the contrast card and indicated in the table 3.

Hardness measurement

The hardness of the composition, which is expressed in grams (g), is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System". by Swantech. The texturometer is equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of lmm / s and penetrating the composition to a depth of 3 mm.

 The value of the hardness is the measured compression force, divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the composition.

 The samples of the lipstick compositions prepared in Example II are cast hot and to the brim in a round petri dish of size 60 mm in radius and 15 mm in height. The samples thus prepared are stored for 24 hours to 48 hours at 20 ° C before taking the measurement. The results are shown in Table 3.

Table 4:

The composition of Example 8 with a surface-specific magnesium carbonate meeting the criteria of the invention has a homogeneous and creamy texture characterized its hardness which remains stable at a value of less than 300 g (grams) over time me after storage 15 days, 1 month and 2 months at 45 ° C.

Claims

claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition comprising at least one wax and / or a pasty compound, at least one oil and at least one anti-exudation filler, characterized in that the antiexsudation filler is chosen from particles having at least one surface roughness of variable geometry whose greatest length is between 10 nm and 1 μιη and having a specific surface area of less than 30 m ² / g, preferably less than 20 m ² / g, more preferably less than 10 m ² / g and even more advantageously less than 5 m ² / g.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the anti-exudation filler is selected from particles having at least one surface roughness of variable geometry whose longest length is between 10 nm and 300 nm.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the anti-exudation charge is selected from particles whose size measured by taking the furthest ends of the particle is between 1 μηι and 30 μηι .

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the anti-exudation filler is selected from magnesium carbonate powders, in particular basic magnesium carbonate of formula (MgC0 ₃ ) 3.Mg ( OH) ₂ .3H ₂ O or of formula (MgCO ₃ ) 4.Mg (OH) ₂ .5H ₂ O or the normal magnesium carbonate of formula (MgCO ₃ ) .xH ₂ O, the diatomaceous earths, or their mixtures.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the total content of anti-exudation filler in the composition is between 1% and 20% and preferably between 1% and 15% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the oil is chosen from non-volatile oils silicone or hydrocarbon or their mixture.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 5% of volatile oil and preferably is free of volatile oil.

8. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is present in a content of between 40% and 80% by weight, preferably between 45% and 70% by weight, more preferably between 50%. and 60% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the wax is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content of between 1% and 30%, preferably between 5% and 25% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to claim 1 to 9, characterized in that the pasty compound is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content of between 1% and 40%, preferably between 5% and 30%, and more preferably preferential between 10% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the composition further comprises a complementary filler selected from lauroyl lysine, boron nitride, silicone microbeads, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydroxyapatite , elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, glass or ceramic microcapsules, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, magnesium aluminum silicate, starch, clay or a mixture thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises a coloring agent selected from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, lacquers and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the total content of coloring agent in the composition is between 5% and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 characterized in that it comprises:

 From 1% to 20% by weight of anti-exudation filler with respect to the total weight of the composition

From 5% to 8% by weight of coloring agent relative to the total weight of the composition - From 10% to 30% and preferably from 15% to 25% by weight of wax and / or pasty compound relative to the total weight of the composition

 - From 40% to 80%, and preferably from 45% to 70% and even more preferably from 50% to 60% of oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Process for the preparation of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the following steps are carried out:

 - (1) grind the pigments, if present, previously in a part of the oil;

 - (2) Melt the wax and / or the pasty compound and the rest of the oil;

 - (3) Add to the molten mixture obtained in (2), the anti-exudation charge, and any additional fillers, any coloring agents other than pigments and any pigments of step (1) with continuous stirring;

 - (4) Optionally add the assets or fragrances; and

 - (5) Hot pour the composition obtained in step (4) in molds, then allow to cool until solidification.

16. Use of an anti-exudation filler to reduce or prevent the exudation of compositions as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.