FR2958158A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON POLYESTER - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition, in particular for make-up and / or care of the skin or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and C2-C10 diol and at least C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester and sucrose.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of the skin or lips, and more particularly the lips. The development of compositions dedicated to makeup and / or care of the skin or lips with satisfactory properties in terms of application, comfort, hold and coverage, but also in terms of makeup effect, namely in particular obtaining brilliance and transparency, is a permanent objective. In the field of lip makeup, it is known that it is possible to confer a gloss character, conventionally by the use in compositions dedicated to the lips, of viscous oils with a high refractive index, such as diisostearyl malate and / or pasty compounds such as polyacyl adipate diglyceryl. In general, the formulations corresponding to fluid galenics, of the "gloss" type, more particularly called "liquid gloss" or "lip gloss", are preferred to provide an optimized gloss effect. These liquid formulations have the advantage, on the one hand, to allow the implementation of higher amounts of these viscous oils with high refractive index and, on the other hand, to overcome the implementation of use of fillers and / or waxes commonly considered for formulations in stick form and which have the effect of altering this brilliant effect. Nevertheless, these conventional liquid formulations are sometimes difficult to spread on the lips if the product is too thick or on the contrary can drool if the product is too fluid. Furthermore, these formulations very often show a sticky character, in particular induced by the use of these oils, this stickiness is reflected in particular by a phenomenon of adhesion of the lips made up between them and which is therefore unpleasant in terms of comfort for the user.

Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the use of a combination of specific compounds makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions in liquid form which are not very tacky, and which have a high gloss and good spreading properties. Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition, in particular for the make-up and / or care of the skin or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimeric unsaturated fatty acid and C2-C10 diol and at least one C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester and sucrose. As is apparent from the examples below illustrating the present invention, a composition according to the invention has satisfactory properties in terms of ease of application, including spreading, and gloss, while being devoid of a sticky character exacerbated . By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the invention to the lips.

The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% by weight of water, and especially free of water. If necessary, such small amounts of water may in particular be brought by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is totally devoid of water.

By "liquid" is meant, in the sense of the present invention, characterize the state of a composition at room temperature (between 20 and 25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in liquid form. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a lipstick or a lip gloss, also known as gloss. According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a process for makeup and / or care of the skin or lips, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said skin or said lips, at least one composition according to the invention.

Carboxylic acid ester of C -C 6 and sucrose A composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester and sucrose. More particularly, this C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester and sucrose is chosen from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, and in particular is diacetate-hexa- (2-methyl). -propanoate) sucrose, such as that marketed under the name Sustane SAIB food grade kosher by Eastman Chemical Company (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate).

Advantageously, a composition of the invention may comprise from 3 to 12% by weight and preferably from 5 to 10% by weight of C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester (s) and of sucrose, relative to the weight total of said composition.

Liquid Polyester A composition according to the invention also comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer and C2-C10 diol. The inventors have observed that the presence, in a cosmetic composition, of at least one such liquid polyester with at least one C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester and of sucrose, contributes to obtaining advantageous properties. in terms of spreading and low tackiness of the deposit during application, and gloss, especially with respect to conventional cosmetic compositions generally comprising polyisobutene, in particular that marketed under the name INDOPOL H 1500 by Ineos. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid polyester" means any polyester capable of flowing under its own weight in less than one minute, at atmospheric pressure and at ambient temperature. By "unsaturated fatty acids" is meant, in the context of the present invention, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acid dimers may in particular comprise from 2 to 4 unsaturations in their carbon chain. The unsaturated fatty acid trimers may comprise from 3 to 6 unsaturations in their carbon chain. Preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6 carboxylic acid functions per molecule. In a preferred embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer can comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and 3 carboxylic acid functions. Advantageously, the liquid polyester is obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising between 28 and 44 carbon atoms and / or from an unsaturated fatty acid trimer comprising between 42 and 66 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the liquid polyester is obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising between 28 and 44 carbon atoms. Preferably, an unsaturated fatty acid dimer is used, in particular having 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions.

Mixtures of dimers and trimers of unsaturated fatty acid and / or unsaturated fatty acid (unpolymerized, therefore corresponding to a monomer) can also be used within the scope of the invention. In the case of such a mixture, a mixture comprising more than 50% by weight of dimers, for example a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95%, of acids in the form of dimers, is preferred. the remainder of the mixture may be trimers and / or unsaturated fatty acid monomers.

The dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid may optionally be hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid, in particular to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product. Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic or linoleic acid) are especially marketed under the trade names EMPOL1008, EMPOL1004, EMPOL1025, EMPOL1011 and EMPOL1062 by Cognis and Pripol 1006 (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema, International. Uniqema also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name Pripol 1013 (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid). Advantageously, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is a dimer of linoleic acid, also called dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably vegetable. A fatty acid of plant origin can come from any plant source producing said fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, molecules extracted from soybean, rapeseed, etc. may be used. The polyester in the composition according to the invention is therefore obtained in particular by condensation of a long chain fatty acid polymerized with a diol.

In the context of the present invention, the term "diol" denotes a C2-C10, preferably C2-C8, and preferably C2-C6, hydrocarbon-based compound, the carbon chain of which is substituted with two hydroxyl functions. The hydrocarbon chain (s) may be interrupted by an oxygen atom. The diols that can be used according to the invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols. Preferably, the diol is a saturated linear C2-C10 diol. In a particularly preferred manner, the diol is a butanediol, especially 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol. Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has a mean molecular weight of between 500 and 2000 g / mol, preferably between 1000 and 2000 g / mol, and preferably between 1200 and 1800 g / mol. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, preferably having an average molecular weight of 1300, a viscosity at 40 ° C of 2500-3500 cSt and a refractive index at 25 ° C of 1.475-1.485. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer).

Advantageously, a composition of the invention may comprise from 15 to 40% by weight, and preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of polyester (s) liquid (s), relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a preferred variant, said (s) said (s) polyester (s) liquid (s) and said (s) ester (s) of carboxylic acid C2-C6 and sucrose can be implemented in a weight ratio "polyester (s) liquid (s)" / "ester (s) of carboxylic acid C2-C6 and sucrose" ranging from 1 to 8, and preferably from 2 to 5. 25 Phase grime As it follows from the above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase. In addition to the liquid polyester (s) obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and C2-C10 diol and the ester (s) of C2-C6 carboxylic acid and sucrose defined above, the fatty phase may further comprise one or more fatty substances and / or oil (s), separate from them. Such fatty substances and / or oils are used provided that their nature and / or their content does not affect the properties of fluidity, gloss or even stickiness and / or ease of spreading of the composition. considered according to the invention.

Solid fat body. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance that may especially be chosen from pasty fatty substances and waxes. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises at least one pasty fatty substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" means a lipophilic fat with reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction. and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty fat may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments .

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at a heating rate of 10 ° C. / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / min and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a rate of heating 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty fatty substance sample is measured as a function of temperature.

The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3: 1999.

The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance, measured at 32 ° C., preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives; - Vaseline in the form of a paste (non-liquid), in particular that sold under the name Ultima Petrolatum by Penreco; polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof, pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol containing 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG -5 Pentaerythrityl Aether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company Vevy, a mixture in which the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil; polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds; polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinyl polymers, especially: homopolymers of olefins (such as vinyl polylaurate); • copolymers of olefins; Homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; Linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 6 -C 30 alkyl group; Homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups; and homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups; the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C10, preferably C2-C50 diols, the esters including the polyesters; and / or - their mixtures. The pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22). mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed under the tradename ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; arachidyl propionate sold under the name Waxenol 801 by Alzo; the phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives; pentaerythritol esters; non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; and - the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic or polycarboxylic acid; shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as those marketed under the references Sheasoft® and Lipex Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN; The esters of dimer diol and dimer of acid, if appropriate, esterified on their function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols such as Plandool -G®; and - their mixtures.

Advantageously, the pasty fatty substance is chosen from polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (also called "hydroxylated ester"). Hydroxyl Ester The hydroxylated ester comprises at least two hydroxyl groups. The hydroxylated ester is advantageously derived from the reaction of at least one aliphatic carboxylic acid hydroxylated with a polyol. Said hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises in particular from 2 to 40, preferably from 10 to 34, and better still from 12 to 28, carbon atoms. It also comprises from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 10, and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, which can subsequently be esterified with the polycarboxylic acid in order to obtain the pasty fatty substance. Said polyol may comprise from 2 to 40, and more preferably from 3 to 30, carbon atoms. The polyol is preferably an aliphatic polyol. Advantageously, the polyol is not an ose. Said polyol which reacts with the hydroxylated acid described above may be partially or totally esterified. Advantageously, the polyol is fully esterified. Preferably, the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is a hydroxylated fatty acid ester such that the fatty acid residue has at least 12, preferably from 12 to 40, and more preferably from 12 to 28, carbon atoms. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester which may be used in the invention may be chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids such as glyceryl triricinoleate (castor oil); C) the partial or total esters of C2-C16 aliphatic polyol reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono or poly carboxylic acid such as triglycerides, pentaerythritol, trimethylol propane, propylene glycol and neopentyl esters; glycol, dipentaerythritol, polyglycerol, sorbitol esters; and f) their mixtures.

Advantageously, when the aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester results from the esterification of an aliphatic polycarboxylic acid such as those mentioned above, there is no residual COOH group remaining unconnected in an ester bond. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is preferably selected from C2 to C16 aliphatic polyol esters, said polyols having reacted with a saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated aliphatic fatty acid having at least 12 carbon atoms. The fatty acid is preferably ricinoleic acid and the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is preferably hydrogenated castor oil. Polycarboxylic acid The polycarboxylic acid comprises at least two COOH groups. Advantageously, it is a diacid dimer of carboxylic acid (s) aliphatic (s) unsaturated (s). The polycarboxylic acid according to the invention is preferably aliphatic; it is advantageously an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid. According to one embodiment, the polycarboxylic acid is a diacid dimer of unsaturated fatty acid (s), that is to say a dimer formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid, for example from of a single unsaturated fatty acid or from two different unsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid is preferably mono-unsaturated or di-unsaturated. By fatty acid is meant an acid obtained by hydrolysis of fatty substances of vegetable or animal origin. The diacid dimers of unsaturated fatty acid (s) or diacid dimer are conventionally obtained by intermolecular dimerization reaction of at least one unsaturated fatty acid. Preferably, only one type of unsaturated fatty acid is dimerized.

The diacid dimers of unsaturated fatty acid (s) are especially obtained by the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular of C8 to C34, in particular of C12 to C22, in particular of C16 to C20, and more particularly to C18. . As representative of these unsaturated fatty acids, there may be mentioned undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassic acid, arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof. The diacid dimer is preferably saturated, that is to say it has no carbon-carbon double bond, and is obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid (s) optionally followed by hydrogenation, to transform any double bonds into simple bonds The unsaturated fatty acid (s) diacid dimers are obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, then optionally by hydrogenation of the dimer thus obtained. The hydrogenated form may be partial or total and in particular correspond to the saturated form which is more stable to oxidation. Diacid dimers are also commercially available, especially dilinoleic diacids whose stability with respect to oxidation has been improved by hydrogenation of the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction.

Preferably, the polyester has a molecular weight of between 3000 and 7000 g / mol. As a preferred pasty fatty substance, mention may be made, for example, of Risocast DA-L (which has a number-average molecular mass of between 3500 and 4000 g / mol) and Risocast DA-H (which has a number-average molecular weight). between 6000 and 6500 g / mol). These products are marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO.

The molar ratio between the polycarboxylic acid and the hydroxylated ester used to prepare said pasty fatty substance is preferably between 0.25 and 1. For example, this ratio is equal to 0.75 for the hydroxylated ester marketed under denomination Risocast DA-H®, and 0.5 for that marketed under the name 30 Risocast DA-L®.

Mention may in particular be made as polyester that can be used in the composition according to the invention, as pasty fatty substance, the esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil, either dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid. In particular, it may be: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid in proportions of 2 to 1; or the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 4 to 3.

Advantageously, a composition of the invention may comprise from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 30 to 55% by weight, and better still from 35 to 45% by weight of pasty fatty substance, relative to the total weight of said composition. . Preferably, a composition of the invention may comprise from 5 to 60% by weight, and better still from 10 to 30% by weight of pasty fatty substance resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an ester of aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, relative to the total weight of said composition.

In addition to such a pasty fatty substance, a composition of the invention may also comprise at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean any lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 200 ° C, and especially up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomérisée jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by DESERT WHALE under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, sunflower oil hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190. As wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or as a mixture . Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen. As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of carnauba microwaxes such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes such as that marketed under the name of MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the names of Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the micro-waxes formed a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microcires t they that marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight of wax (s), relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of wax

Oils For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means any non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. They can be chosen from polar oils, apolar, or mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000 g / mol. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "additional polar oil" is intended to denote a polar oil distinct from a C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester and from sucrose as defined above.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 25% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 20% by weight of additional polar oil (s), relative to the total weight of said composition. The fatty phase according to the invention comprises any type of oil compatible with a cosmetic use, as envisaged in the present invention. These oils are chosen according to the desired formulation, especially to obtain a lip gloss or a makeup product and / or care of the lips. Among the polar oils, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon oils comprising ester, ether, acid, alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as fatty alcohols and fatty acids, and their esters.

It is thus possible to cite as a polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000: high-triglyceride hydrocarbon vegetable oils consisting of fatty acid ester and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids. These oils include wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, of pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier , passionflower, rose hip or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the name MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by DYNAMIT NOBEL; - Short-chain acid esters, in particular comprising from 4 to 11 carbon atoms, and in particular octanoic acid or heptanoic acid such as propylene glycol dioctanoate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; esters of fatty acids, in particular of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyol glyceryl 2-diisostearate, - synthetic short esters corresponding to the formula R30OOR4 in which R3 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R3 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms provided that the number of carbon atoms in R3 + R4 is less than or equal to 25, such as isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, palmitate, and the like. 2-hexyl ethyl, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, 2-d succinate ethyl hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl stearate, octyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, diglycerin triisostearate; - Glycerin triisostearate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; the pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate; branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; higher C12-C26 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; and - their mixtures.

The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more apolar oil (s). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. Sa is equal to 0 (J / cm 3). The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in space Three-dimensional solubility of HANSEN are described in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - SD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); Sa is determined by the equation: Sa = (5p 2 + 5h 2). The parameters Sp, Sh, SD and Sa are expressed in (J / cm 3). The apolar oil may in particular be a hydrocarbon oil and or silicone and / or fluorinated. By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or of fluorine. According to one embodiment, the apolar hydrocarbon oil is devoid of heteroatom (s). By heteroatom is meant an atom other than carbon or hydrogen.

Among the hydrocarbon oils, squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as paraffin, petrolatum and naphthalene oils, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as Parleam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS), or partially hydrogenated, may be mentioned. isoeicosane, squalane, polydecenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, polydecenes such as PURESYN 10, and mixtures thereof.

By "silicone oil" or "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. The silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be phenyl silicone oils (by phenyl silicone means an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group), non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl groups. or alkoxy, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. Among the phenyl silicone oils mention may be made of Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes.

The apolar oil may also be chosen from fluorinated oils (an oil containing at least one fluorine atom) such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils. .

According to one embodiment, the apolar oil is a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil which may advantageously be chosen from saturated, linear or branched alkanes. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). It is also possible to define a non-volatile oil as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2.

According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional glossy oil, distinct from a C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester and sucrose, and especially such that defined below. Preferably, the glossy oil is nonvolatile. The gloss oil preferably has a high molecular weight ranging from 650 to 10 000 g / mol, and preferably from 750 to 7500 g / mol. The gloss oil that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from: lipophilic polymers such as: polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H- 300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 15 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, the hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), VISEAL 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company MOBIL CHEMICALS; and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as: the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON VU216 sold or manufactured by ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol); esters such as: linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol), hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol triisostearate; (MW = 965 g / mol); aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol); esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as those described in EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate ( MW = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891 g / mol), glyceryl 2-decyltetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol) polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 (MW = 1232 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g / mol); the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters of the general formula HO-R 5 - (- OCO-R 2 -COO-R 6 -) h-OH, in which: R 5 represents a residue of diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of the dilinoleic diacid; - R6 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue; and - represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular the dilinoleic diacid esters and diolorsiline diamines marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®; silicone oils such as phenyl silicones (also called phenylated silicone oil) such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes; oils of vegetable origin, such as sesame oil (MW = 820 g / mol), and their mixtures.

The glossy oil may also be an oligomer of triglyceride of hydroxylated fatty acid and saturated diacid. Such an oligomer is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a saturated diacid. According to the invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain constituting it does not contain unsaturation, namely carbon-carbon double bond. The term "diacid" is understood to mean a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl functions - COOH. The diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids. Similarly, within the meaning of the invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of several oligomers. Among the saturated diacids that may be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid. . More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) diacid: ## STR2 ##

R1 R1 R1 C = 0 C = 0 C = O O O I I I CH2 CH CH O O

(B) in which:

R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

R1 preferably represents a group (CH2) r1, where n can vary from 1 to 20 and in particular from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12;

R2 preferably represents a group (CH2) mCH3, in which m may vary from 0 to 1 l and in particular from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9; According to one embodiment n = 10 and m = 5, and the group -R1-CHOH-R2 represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (major component of hydrogenated castor oil);

X 1 is a linear or branched alkylene group such as, for example, a linear alkylene (CH 2) x group, where x can vary from 1 to 30 and especially from 3 to 15. (A) When the diacid is sebacic acid, x is equal to 8. The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12. The oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid is marketed by the company CRODA under different names depending on the degree of polymerization. . Of the oligoesters formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, that having a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-5" and that having a degree of polymerization of about 9.5 is available under the trade name CROMADOL CWS-10, marketed by Croda Japan KK. The hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid oligomer sold under the trade name CRODABOND-CSA (MW = 3500) is also mentioned. by the company CRODA. The oligomer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 50% by weight, particularly from 0.001 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 0.01 to 30% and for example from 0 to 30% by weight. , 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the glossy oil has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.45 to 1.6. In one particular embodiment, the glossy oil is one of the dilinoleic diacid esters and of the dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

Additional Compounds Advantageously, a composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additional compound, or also referred to as an auxiliary compound, usually used in the cosmetics field, such as waxes, in particular those defined above; coloring matters, in particular pigments, pearlescent agents, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof; charges ; antioxidants; conservatives; neutralizers; semi-crystalline polymers; plasticizers; film-forming polymers; lipophilic gelling agents; non-aqueous liquid compounds; hydrophilic gelling agents; dispersants; perfumes ; surfactants; solar filters; vitamins ; emollients; actives ; and their mixtures.

Such additional compounds are used provided that their nature and / or their content does not affect the properties of fluidity, gloss, and adhesion of the composition considered according to the invention.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents The gelling agents that may be used according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to mention fumed silica optionally treated hydrophobic surface whose particle size is less than 1 micron. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by CABOT; or dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES , SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 groups; C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name Kratori by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company. PENRECO under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one fatty chain. pendant and / or at least one optionally functionalized fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon units, as described in WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619, the content is incorporated by reference; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657 whose contents are incorporated by reference.

As an example of a polyamide resin that can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned UNICLEAR 100 VG® marketed by ARIZONA CHEMICAL.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL. ® by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

It is also possible to use polyorganosiloxane type silicone polyamides such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,874,069, US Pat. No. 5,919,441, US Pat. No. 6,051,216 and US Pat. No. 5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

Dyestuffs Preferably, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one coloring agent, also called "dyestuff", which may be chosen in particular from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, optical effect, and mixtures thereof. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.005 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Goniochromatic Coloring Agents A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one goniochromatic coloring agent, which may have magnetic properties if appropriate.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic coloring agent" denotes a coloring agent which makes it possible, when the composition is spread on a support, to obtain a color path in the a * b * plane of the color space. CIE 1976 which corresponds to a variation Dh of the h angle angle of at least 20 ° when the angle of observation is varied with respect to the normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of incidence of light 45 °. The color path can be measured for example by means of an INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand spectrogoniorflectometer and GON 360 GONIOMETER reference, after the first composition has been spread in a fluid state with a thickness of 300 μm by means of a automatic spreader on an ERICHSEN brand contrast card and Typ 24/5, the measurement being made on the black background of the card. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS , ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti , Ta, W, Zn, MoSz, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry at the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures are for example the following structures: Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt).

The liquid crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company Chenix as well as those sold under the name HELICONE® HC by the company Wacker. As goniochromatic coloring agent, it is also possible to use certain nacres, pigments with effects on a synthetic substrate, in particular substrate type alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide, aluminum, or interferential holographic flakes from a polyterephthalate film. The ratio of the mass proportion of the magnetic pigments to the proportion of gonio chromatic coloring agent is, for example, between 1/4 and 4, being for example between 1/2 and 2, for example close to 1.

The material may further comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibers. Such fibers may have a length less than 80 microns, for example.

Diffractive Pigments A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one diffractive pigment, which may have magnetic properties if appropriate. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diffractive pigment" denotes a pigment capable of producing a color variation according to the angle of observation when illuminated by white light, because of the presence of a structure which diffracts the light.

A diffractive pigment may comprise a diffraction grating, capable for example of diffracting in defined directions an incident monochromatic light ray. The diffraction grating may comprise a periodic pattern, in particular a line, the distance between two adjacent patterns being of the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of the incident light. When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction grating will separate the different spectral components of the light and produce a rainbow effect. It will be useful to refer to the structure of the diffractive pigments in the article "Pigments Exhibiting Diffractive Effects" by Alberto Argoitia and Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum Coaters, 45th Annual Technical Conference Proceedings 2002. The diffractive pigment can be produced with patterns having different profiles, including triangular, symmetrical or not, crenellated, constant width or not, sinusoidal.

The spatial frequency of the network and the depth of the patterns will be chosen according to the degree of separation of the different orders desired. The frequency can vary for example between 500 and 3000 lines per mm. Preferably, the particles of the diffractive pigment each have a flattened shape, and in particular are platelet-shaped. The same pigment particle may comprise two crossed diffraction gratings, perpendicular or otherwise. The diffractive pigment may have a multilayer structure having a layer of a reflective material, covered at least on one side with a layer of a dielectric material. The latter can impart better rigidity and durability to the diffractive pigment. The dielectric material may then be chosen for example from the following materials: MgF 2, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, AlF 3, CeF 3, LaF 3, NdF 3, SmF 2, BaF 2, CaF 2, LiF and their combinations. The reflective material may be chosen for example from metals and their alloys and also from non-metallic reflective materials. Among the metals that can be used are Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr and their materials, combinations or alloys. Such a reflective material may alone constitute the diffractive pigment which will then be monolayer. Alternatively, the diffractive pigment may comprise a multilayer structure having a core of a dielectric material coated with a reflective layer at least on one side, or even completely encapsulating the core. A layer of a dielectric material may also cover the reflective layer (s). The dielectric material used is then preferably inorganic, and may be chosen for example from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides and their combinations. The dielectric material may be in the crystalline, semicrystalline or amorphous state. The dielectric material, in this configuration, may for example be selected from the following materials: MgF 2, SiO 2, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, TiO 2, WO, AlN, BN, B 4 C, WC, TiC, TiN, N 4 Si 3, ZnS, glass particles , diamond-like carbons and their combinations. Alternatively, the diffractive pigment may be composed of a preformed dielectric or ceramic material such as a natural lamella mineral, for example peroskovite mica or talc, or synthetic lamellae formed from glass, alumina, SiO2, carbon, iron oxide / mica, mica coated with BN, BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride, and combinations thereof.

In place of a layer of dielectric material, other materials improving the mechanical properties may be suitable. Such materials may include silicone, metal silicides, semiconductor materials formed from Group III, IV and V elements, metals having a centered cubic crystal structure, cermet compositions or materials, semi-conductors -conductors, and their varied associations. The diffractive pigment used may especially be chosen from those described in US 2003/0031870. A diffractive pigment may comprise, for example, the following structure: MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2, a diffractive pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver by the company FLEX PRODUCTS, or SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver FG. The proportion by weight of the MgF 2 can be between 80 and 95% of the total weight of the pigment. The amount of diffractive pigment may vary, by weight based on the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.0001 to 5%. The size of the diffractive pigment may be, for example, between 5 and 200 μm, better still between 5 and 100 μm, for example between 5 and 30 μm. The thickness of the diffractive pigment particles may be less than or equal to 3 μm, more preferably 2 μm, for example of the order of 1 μm. Reflective Particles A composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, reflective particles, in particular flakes, among others, whether magnetic or not. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "reflective particles" denotes particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers constituting it and their physical and chemical natures, and the surface state, allow them to reflect the incident light. This reflection can, if necessary, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when it is applied to the support to make up, highlight points visible to the naked eye is that is, brighter points that contrast with their surroundings by appearing to shine. The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. The reflective particles may be present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.0001 to 60% relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.001 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.005 to 10% by weight. These particles may have various forms, in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical. The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a reflective material. When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, including synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides. When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, these may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metal material. . The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic. More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting. The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.

Reflective particles are described in particular in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710. Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a metal layer, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver, also called "white nacres".

Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company. The reflective particles, irrespective of their shape, may also be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic material, in particular a metal oxide chosen, for example, from titanium oxides. , especially TiO2, iron including Fe2O3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following materials: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2 , Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2 and mixtures or alloys thereof. By way of example of such particles, mention may be made of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or coated glass particles of brown iron oxide, of titanium oxide, of oxide of titanium dioxide or of tin or one of their mixtures such as those sold under the trade name REFLECKS® by ENGELHARD.

Nacres A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nacre, magnetic or not. By "mother-of-pearl", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye. especially of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the nacres that may be introduced into the composition, mention may especially be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearl sold in particular by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden greenish orange nacres sold especially by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Dyes, Organic Pigments and Lacquers A composition according to the invention may also comprise organic dyes or pigments.

The dyes may be fat-soluble or water-soluble. Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 , yellow quinoline.

The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue. The dyes may for example represent from 0.0001 to 20% of the weight of the composition, or even from 0.001 to 6%, when present. Organic lakes are organic pigments formed of a dye attached to a substrate. Lacquers which are also called organic pigments can be chosen from the following materials and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine; organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane and fluoran dyes. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of those known under the following names: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10, D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6; the organic lakes may be insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic dyes , quinoliniques, triphenylmethane, fluoran, these dyes may comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.

Organic lacquers may also be supported by an organic carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of the following denominations: D & C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Potassium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 8 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 10 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 19 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 21 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 21 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 22 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 27 Barium Lake , D & C Red # 27 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 27 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 28 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 30 Lake, D & C Red # 31 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 33 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 34 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 36 Lake, D & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake, D & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, D & C Green # 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange # 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Orange No. 10 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange No. 17 Barium Lake, D & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 10 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 4 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned above are mentioned in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association. The contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Composite Pigments A composition according to the invention may also comprise composite pigments.

The composite pigment may be composed in particular of particles comprising: an inorganic core, magnetic or otherwise; at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic dyestuff.

At least one binder can advantageously contribute to the fixing of the organic dyestuff on the inorganic nucleus. The composite pigment particles may have various shapes. These particles may in particular be platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical, and may be hollow or solid. The term "platelet-shaped" denotes particles whose ratio of the largest dimension to the thickness is greater than or equal to 5. For example, a composite pigment may have a specific surface area of between 1 and 1000 m 2 / g. in particular between 10 and 600 m2 / g, and in particular between 20 and 400 m2 / g. The specific surface is the value measured by the BET method. The inorganic core of the composite pigment may be of any form suitable for fixing particles of organic dyestuff, for example spherical, globular, granular, polyhedral, acicular, fusiform, flattened in the form of flakes, grains of rice, tortoiseshell as well as a combination of these forms, this list not being limiting. The ratio of the largest dimension of the core to its smallest dimension may be between 1 and 50. The inorganic core may have a size of between about 1 nm and about 100 nm, or even between about 5 nm and about 75 nm, by for example between about 10 nm and about 50 nm. The inorganic nucleus may be made of a material chosen from the nonlimiting list comprising metal salts and metal oxides, in particular oxides of titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron, ferric blue, aluminum and aluminum. chromium, alumina, glasses, ceramics, graphite, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof. The oxides of titanium, in particular TiO 2, of iron, in particular Fe 2 O 3, of cerium, of zinc and of aluminum, the silicates, in particular the aluminosilicates and the borosilicates, are very particularly suitable. The inorganic nucleus may have a specific surface area, measured by the BET method, for example between about 1 m 2 / g and about 1000 m 2 / g, more preferably between about 10 m 2 / g and about 600 m 2 / g, for example between about 20 m2 / g and about 400 m2 / g. The inorganic core can be colored, if necessary.

The organic dyestuff may be as defined above. The binder of the composite pigment can be of any type since it allows the organic dyestuff to adhere to the surface of the inorganic core. The binder can in particular be chosen from a non-limiting list comprising silicone materials, polymeric, oligomeric or similar materials, and in particular from organosilanes, fluoroalkylated organosilanes and polysiloxanes, for example polymethylhydrogenosiloxane, as well as various coupling agents, such as coupling agents based on silanes, titanates, aluminates, zirconates and mixtures thereof.

The coloring agent present in the composition may comprise a photochromic dyestuff or photochromic agent.

Photochromic Agents In general, a "photochromic coloring agent" is a coloring agent having the property of changing color when illuminated by ultraviolet light and restoring its original color when no longer illuminated by this light or to go from an uncolored state to a colored state and vice versa. In other words, such an agent has different hues depending on whether it is illuminated by light containing a certain amount of UV radiation as in sunlight or artificial light. It will be useful to refer to the examples of photochromic agents described in EP 1 410 786.

Thermochromic Agents It is possible, for example, to use the thermochromic agent sold under the reference KROMAFAST YELLOW 5GX 02- by the company KROMACHEM LTD.

Other coloring agents A composition according to the invention may also comprise piezochromic compounds, especially tribochromic compounds, or solvatochromes.

Charges The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the weight. total of the composition.

By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-B-alanine and polyethylene, and tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon e). , lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap® Company) Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, silica microspheres hollow (Silica Beads from Maprecos), microcapsules of glass or ceramic, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example st. arate zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified. The expression "between ... to ..." must be understood inclusive, unless the opposite is specified.

The following examples are intended to illustrate in a nonlimiting manner the object of the present invention. Quantities are given as a percentage by mass.

EXAMPLES Example 1: liquid lip gloss formulation Chemical Name (% by weight) Hydrophilic pyrogenic silica 3.5 (Aerosil 200 from EVONIK DEGUSSA) Pigments 0.3 Castor oil 14.6 Beeswax 2.7 Polyester hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic dimer 19.2 acid (Risocast DA-L from KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO) Shea butter 12 (Lipex sheasoft from AARHUSKARLSHAMN) Shea butter 12 (Lipex shea from AARHUSKARLSHAMN) Fragrance 0,4 Di-acetate sucrose (Sustane SAIB food grade kosher from EASTMAN CHEMICAL) Hydrogenated polyester of 26.8 dilinoleic acid and butanediol (Viscoplast 14436 H from BIOSYNTHIS) The protocol used to the manufacture of this liquid gloss is the "classical" gloss formulation protocol. The pigments are ground in part of the castor oil. In a skillet, the ground material obtained is then placed with the remainder of castor oil, the shea butters, the hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic dimer acid polyester (Risocast DA-L), the diacetate sucrose hexa- (2-methyl-propanoate) and the hydrogenated polyester of dilinoleic acid and butanediol (Viscoplast 14436 H), and mixed at a temperature of 80-90 ° C. The beeswax is then added and allowed to homogenise for about 20 to 30 minutes. When the mixture is well smooth, the silica is dispersed with rayneri, and then the perfume is added.

A panel of 5 people evaluated the cosmetic properties of such a composition during and after application. The liquid gloss spreads easily and correctly on the lips. The makeup obtained is bright and not sticky. In particular, it is found that the lips adhere little between them.

Comparative Example 2 Composition Not in Accordance with the Invention This is a composition of Example 1 free of sucrose di-acetate-hexa- (2-methylpropanoate) whose suppressed amount is offset by the hydrogenated polyester of dilinoleic acid and butanediol (Viscoplast 14436 H ). A panel of 5 people evaluated the cosmetic properties of such a composition during and after application. In comparison with the gloss of Example 1, the composition of Example 2 spreads less well on the lips. On the other hand, although the makeup obtained is brilliant, it is more tacky.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 Composition not in Accordance with the Invention This is a composition of Example 1 free of the hydrogenated polyester of dilinoleic acid and butanediol (Viscoplast 14436 H), the suppressed amount of which is compensated by di- sucrose acetate-hexa- (2-methyl-propanoate). A panel of 5 people evaluated the cosmetic properties of such a composition during and after application. In comparison with the gloss of Example 1, the composition of Example 3 spreads less well on the lips and, although the tackiness of this composition is similar to that of Example 1, it is observed that the obtained makeup is less brilliant.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. An anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer and C2-C10 diol and at least one C2 carboxylic acid ester -C6 and sucrose. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the liquid polyester is obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and / or from an unsaturated fatty acid trimer comprising from 42 to 66 carbon atoms. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the diol is a saturated linear C2-C10 diol. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises from 15 to 40% by weight, and preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of polyester (s) liquid (s), relative to total weight of said composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester and sucrose is sucrose di-acetate-hexa- (2-methyl-propanoate). 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises from 3 to 12% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 10% by weight of C2-carboxylic acid ester (s). C6 and sucrose, based on the total weight of said composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio "polyester (s) liquid (s)" / "ester (s) of carboxylic acid C2-C6 and sucrose" varies from 1 at 8, and preferably from 2 to 5. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one pasty fatty substance. 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the pasty fatty substance results from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups. 10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is an ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid. 11. A composition according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that it comprises from 5 to 60% by weight, and better still from 10 to 30% by weight of pasty fatty substance resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, relative to the total weight of said composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional compound chosen from waxes; dyestuffs, in particular pigments, pearlescent agents, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof; the charges ; antioxidants; conservatives ; neutralizers; semi-crystalline polymers; plasticizers; film-forming polymers; lipophilic gelling agents; non-aqueous liquid compounds; hydrophilic gelling agents; dispersants; the perfumes ; surfactants; solar filters; vitamins; emollients; assets ; and their mixtures. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is intended for the makeup and / or care of the skin or lips. 14. A method for making up and / or caring for the skin or lips, especially the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said skin or said lips, at least one composition as defined according to any one of the claims. 1 to 13.