FR2694692A1 - Cosmetic compsn for skin nutrition - contains essential fatty acids, vitamin(s) and chelated trace and major elements - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic contains a skin nutrition compsn. which contains at least one essential fatty acid (I) and (the new feature) (a) trace elements and/or major elements chelated by at least one skin-compatible amino acid and (b) at least one vitamin which acts on the metabolism of skin cells. Pref. vitamins are A, E, C, B1, PP, B5, B6, B8 and/or their provitamins; chelated elements are Zn, Cu, Mn, Fe, Mg, Ca and Se; and (I) are lipids rich in linoleic and/or linolenic acids, esp. oil of rosehip or soya, or non-saponifiable fractions of olive oil. USE/ADVANTAGE - The compsn. provides, to each skin cell, the nutrients needed for proper functioning. It can be used on any type of skin but partic. those with a tendency to dryness and redness, e.g. the hands. Normally incompatible components (e.g. Vitamin A and metals) can be formulated together; the compsns. are not allergenic; do not produce cornedos and are well tolerated by the skin and eyes. Chelating the metals improves their bioavailability and tolerance and reduces any possible toxicity.

Description

Cosmetic nutrition preparation
skin
The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation for skin nutrition.

 We know that good cosmetic nutrition contributes to the proper functioning of the skin, in particular by avoiding various skin conditions. However, the oral absorption of food, progressively digested in the gastrointestinal tract, and finally passing through the hepatic route, can only provide nutrients in the underlayers of the skin, since the upper layers of the latter are not vascularized .

 Poorly nutric skin is dull, loose skin, lacking in flexibility. It is also a defatted skin, which decreases skin hydration and cell cohesion.

All this contributes to weakening the role of barrier and defenses of the skin, vis-à-vis all aggressions and other external sensitizations.

 Undernutrition of the skin also manifests aging of the skin. Enzymes are no longer synthesized in such large quantities and some become inactive, which reduces the assimilation of certain nutrients, including fatty acids.

 Until now, we have mainly focused on the skin's needs for energy nutrients, in particular lipids, especially essential fatty acids. We know, for example, that any nutritional deficiency of fatty acids in the skin can cause hair loss, eczema and the skin's hyperpermeability to moisture. Consequently, various products comprising polyunsaturated fatty acids have already been proposed, such as shampoos, bath and shower products, etc.

 But it is not enough to nourish the epidermis, it is also necessary to provide it with other micronutrients, not synthesized by the body, and whose daily losses must be compensated for. These micro-nutrients are involved in particular in a multitude of biological reactions within the dermis and epidermis, and are ultimately necessary for the physiological balance of the epidermis.

A cosmetic preparation according to the invention comprises a skin nutrition composition consisting of
- one or more essential fatty acids,
- trace elements and / or macro-elements che lat by at least one dermo-compatible amino acid, and at least one vitamin compound, active vis-à-vis the cellular metabolism of the skin.

 The vitamin compound is chosen from the compounds of vitamins A, E, C, B1, PP, B5, B6, B8, and / or their provitamins.

The trace element and / or the macro-element are chosen from the following metals, namely Zn, Cu, Mn, Fe,
Mg, Ca, Se.

 The essential fatty acid (s) are chosen from lipids rich in linoleic and / or linolenic acids, in particular rose hip oil, soybean oil, and the unsaponifiable fractions of olive oil.

 Advantageously, the cosmetic preparation according to the invention also comprises an anti-free radical complex comprising a bioflavonoid.

 Advantageously, the skin nutrition composition, constituting the active material of the preparation, represents at least 10% by weight of the latter, the rest being constituted by a vehicle suitable for the intra-dermal transfer of the composition.

More specifically, a nutrition composition according to the invention comprises
Example Range of
composition 1 Vitamins
Vitamin A Palmitate 0.3% 0.01 - 2%
Vitamin E acetate 0.5% 0.01 - 10%
Ascorbosinane C (Vitamin C 1.0% 0.10 - 10%
+ organic silicon)
Vitamin B1 0.01% 0.001 - 2%
Vitamin PP 0.1% 0.01 - 5%
Panthenol 75 (vitamin B5) 0.5% 0.01 - 5%
Vitamin B6 0.3% 0.01 - 5%
Vitamin B8 0.005% 0.001 - 1%
Total 2,715% 2 Essential qra acids
Vitamin F
Muscat rose oil 2% 0.1 - 10%
Soybean oil 13% 0.1 - 50%
Total 15% 3 Oliso-elements
Zn Chelate a 20% 0.05% 0.201 - 5%
(i.e. 100mg / kg)
Cu Chelate a 3% 0.01% 0.001 - 5%
(i.e. 3mg / kg)
Mn Chelate a 16% 0.0001% 0.001 - 5%
(i.e. 0.8mg / kg)
Fe Chelate at 18% 0.0001% 0.001 - 5%
(i.e. 0.18mg / kg)
Mg Chelate 10% 0.05% 0.001 - 5%
(i.e. 50mg / kg)
ca 14% Chelate 0.01% 0.001 - 5%
(i.e. 14mg / kg)
Total 0.12% 0.006 - 30% 4 Oil unsaponifiables
olive 2.0% 0.1 - 15% 5 Anti-free radical complex 0.3%
Including at least one bioflavonoid
By way of example, a cosmetic preparation according to the invention comprises
Beeswax 1,2
Muscat rose oil about 2
Soybean oil 13
MT100 (micronized titanium dioxide) 0.1
Unsaponifiables of olive oil 2
Ascorbyle palmitate (vitamin C) 0.01
Tocopherol acetate (vitamin E) 0.5
Dow 344, cyclomethicone (silicone) 8
Robufa 30n-3 oil (fish oil 0.04
Abil EM 90 (silicone) 2.5
Water qs qs 100
NaCl 0.5
Disodium EDTA 0.2 Flavonoid 0.05
Vitamin B1 (thiamine hydrochloride) 0.01
Vitamin PP (nicotinamide) 0.1
Vitamin B6 0.3
Vitamin B8 (d-biotin) 0.005
Zn Chelate (methionine / histidine chelate) 0.05
Cu Chelate (isoleucine / valine chelate) 0.01
Mg Chelate (aspartic acid / glycine chelate) 0.05
Ca Chelate (histidine / lysine chelate) 0.01
Vitamin a palmitate 0.3
Ascorbosilane C (silicon + vitamin C) 1
Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.1
Panthenol 75 L (vitamin B5) 0.5
Perfume 0.3 "Liqua per oil" (preservative) 0.3
A preparation according to the invention makes it possible to provide each skin cell with the essential elements necessary for its proper functioning, and in particular concomitantly with trace elements and vitamins.

 Thanks to the invention, substances which are normally incompatible, such as vitamin A with metals, and vitamin E and panthenol (B5) with copper and iron, become compatible with one another.

 The preparations according to the invention have been found, after various tests, anallergic, non-comedogenic, and have good skin and eye tolerance.

 The chelated form of the trace elements makes it possible to increase their bioavailability, their tolerance, and decreases their possible toxicity.

 These preparations can be obtained in any suitable physical form or texture, such as emulsions, lotions, and creams.

 Vitamins are substances with no own energy value, acting in low doses and which the body cannot synthesize. Some of them have a direct effect on the skin. A deficiency has rapid repercussions on skin tissue.

 The vitamins used according to the invention fall into two groups: the fat-soluble and water-soluble vitamins.

1) Fat-soluble vitamins
Vitamin A ralmitate or acetate
- action on the maintenance in good condition of the skin and mucous membranes; a deficiency results clinically by drying of the skin and hyperkeratosis giving the skin a rough appearance; it plays a regulatory role in the growth, differentiation and activity of epithelial cells,
- it is attributed a role in the synthesis of glycoproteins located on the external face of cells, these molecules would have a role in recognition between cells, their adhesion and the exchange of signals between them.

Vitamin E acetate
- this vitamin protects lipid substances from oxidation and thereby contributes to the good condition of the tissues; it opposes the formulation of lipoperoxides toxic for the cell by capturing the hydroxyl radical (ARL action),
- in addition, by interposing within cell membranes, it stops the propagation of lipid peroxidation reactions; unlike liperoxide, it captures the electrons by forming a chemically stable radical.

2) Water-soluble vitamins
This group includes the vitamins of group B and vitamin C. They are easily excreted in the urine, due to their hydrophilic nature and their low molecular weight. Concentrations are rarely high in tissues. There is little or no hypervitaminosis phenomena.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid):
- it has multiple actions at the tissue level and cellular metabolisms: it participates in the defense of the organism against infections, is essential for the formation of collagen and protection against oxidizing substances; it is one of the best singlet oxygen sensors (02) (ARL action),
- the transformation of pro-collagen into collagen requires the hydroxylation of two amino acids: proline and lysine; this hydroxylation is necessary for the formation of the collagen triple helix; vitamin C plays an essential role in this transformation in its absence, the synthesized collagen is not capable of ensuring the tone of the tissues, the skin becomes flaccid and soft.

Vitamin B1 (thiamine)
- it stimulates the growth and development of all cells,
- it intervenes as a coenzyme in many reactions and more particularly in the metabolism of carbohydrates.

Vitamin B3 or PP (nicotinic acid):
It participates in the metabolism of proteins, carbohydrates and lipids. A deficiency is noticed very quickly by numerous cutaneous signs: painful erythema which can be itchy with the formation of rough and brownish skin (Pellagre).

Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid)
- present in all tissues, it enters into the composition of coenzyme A; it is involved in a large number of stages of metabolism; its presence is necessary for maintaining the good condition of the skin, hair and mucous membranes, as well as for good healing,
- panthothenic acid promotes skin renewal on the germ layer (basal lamina) located at the dermo-epidermal junction; it is proposed in the treatment of alopecia (in combination with vitamin BB or biotime), skin appendage disorders and scarring.

Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine)
It mainly participates in the metabolism of amino acids. Its effect on the skin is very similar to that of vitamin B2. Its deficiency is linked to the appearance of acne-prone skin sensitive to seborrheic dermatitis and acne.

Vitamin B8 or H (biotin)
- biotin undoubtedly plays a key role in maintaining the entirety of the skin and integuments,
- it participates at the cellular level in multiple reactions; the skin contains large quantities and its deficiency materializes by a scaly dermatitis, with dryness of the skin and mucous membranes; this vitamin is particularly recommended for the treatment of seborrheic affections.

ss carotene
- P carotene is not a vitamin strictly speaking, but one molecule of ss carotene is transformed into two molecules of vitamin A.

 - P carotene also has a remarkable antioxidant action; it is one of the best sensors of singlet oxygen with vitamin A; singlet oxygen is not a free radical because it does not have a single electron, but it is very reactive and must be eliminated quickly (anti ARL, or anti free radicals).

 The minerals used according to the invention have a primary nutritional function. These are biocatalysts present in the body wherever there is an enzymatic reaction. Their role is to favor all these reactions by their simple presence, without effective participation in the biochemical reactions.

 They are separated into two categories: trace elements and macro elements.

1) Trace elements
These are: zinc, copper, iron, iodine, chromium, selenium, molybdenum, manganese.

Zinc
- it is an element which activates around 80 metalloenzymes, in particular super-oxide dismutase (SOD), which gives it an indirect antioxidant power,
- it plays the role in the healing process and cell growth,
- it is involved in the normalization of the sebum rate in subjects with oily skin.

 - daily requirements are approximately 15 mg / day orally; we can therefore think that the skin needs are around 2.5 mg / day for the whole skin tissue.

The copper
- it is involved in the metabolism of connective tissue by activating numerous enzymes: cytochrome oxidase, superoxide dismutase, cytochrome C oxidase, etc.

 - the daily requirements are approximately 2 to 3 mg / day orally; it can therefore be assumed that the skin needs are around 0.3 mg / day for the whole skin tissue.

The iron
- it is an element participating in the formation of hemoglobin, vector of cell oxygenation, it also catalyzes the formation of collagen, like vitamin C,
- the daily needs are approximately 25 mg / day orally; we can therefore think that the skin needs are around 5 mg / day for the whole skin tissue.

Manganese
- it activates many enzyme systems
Mn-super-oxide dismutase (antioxidant, anti ARL),
- it plays a role in the synthesis of mucopolysaccharides (tissue structure),
- the daily requirements are approximately 5 mg / day orally; it can therefore be assumed that the skin needs are around 0.85 mg / day for the whole skin tissue.

Selenium
- like all trace elements, it contributes to the proper functioning of enzyme systems, but more particularly to that of glutathione-peroxidase (antioxidant),
- it stabilizes vitamin E,
- it has immune functions,
- it stabilizes keratin,
- daily needs are estimated at around 100 to 200 ssg / day; by oral way one can thus think that the needs are approximately 15 to 35 yg / day for the whole of the cutaneous tissue.

2) Macro elements
These are calcium, potassium and magnesium.

They are present in larger quantities in the body.

Magnesium
- it is a cell growth factor,
- it activates many metalloenzymes,
- it plays a protective role vis-à-vis vitamin E,
- daily requirements are approximately 400 mg / day orally; we can therefore think that the skin needs are around 60 mg / day for the whole skin tissue.

Calcium
- it participates in the constitution and maintenance of the bone and dental framework, in the maintenance of the integrity of the cell membrane,
- the daily requirements are approximately 900 mg / day orally; we can therefore think that the skin needs are around 150 mg / day for the whole skin tissue.

Silicon
- this is a very important element, which is found in all of the constituent elements of the epidermis and dermis, which slowly disappears with age; its role is multiple: it makes it possible to normalize cellular metabolisms, to regenerate and repair tissues,
- it increases the quantity of AMPC and thus makes it possible to stimulate the whole cellular metabolism,
- it has an anti-free radical action and thus protects the cell,
- it is an original moisturizer because it increases the amount of water bound inside the skin tissue, thus improving the biomechanical properties of the skin.

Essential fatty acids are also called vitamin F. Acids, linoleic C18: 2 n-6, a linoleic
C18: 3 n-3 and gamma linolenic C18: 3 n-6, are essential for cells because they cannot synthesize them, and they are the basic elements in the constitution of membrane phospholipids as well as many cellular mediators, such as prostaglandins, leuco trienes, thromboxanes. These molecules are very active in low doses in the immediate environment of the cell that produced them. They participate in inflammatory reactions (anti-free radical and regulating effect), in blood coagulation, in the phenomenon of vasodilation.

 The unsaponifiables of olive oil cross the dermo-epidermal junction and reach the dermoréticular where the fibers of collagen and elastin are located. They stimulate the synthesis of these same fibers whose alteration is at the origin of the aging of the skin.

 These products are particularly recommended for dry and rough skin. The results are spectacular in the hands.

In summary, a nutrition composition according to the invention comprises for example 1) Vitamins
Vitamin A palmitate
Vitamin E acetate
Ascorbosilane C (Vitamin C + Organic Silicon)
Vitamin B1
Vitamin PP
Penthenol 75 (Vitamin B5)
Vitamin B6
Vitamin B8 (Biotin)
Beta Carotene or Provitamin A 2) Mineral elements
Zn Chelate
Cu Chelate
Mn Chelate
Fe Chelate
Mg Chelate
Ca chelate
Complexes 3) Essential fatty acids
Vitamin F
Rosehip Oil C18:: 3
Soybean oil 4) Possibly an anti-radical complex, based on
bioflavonoids
The preparations according to the invention are suitable for all skin types, and more specifically
- undernourished, dull, thin and defatted skin
- skins sensitized by lack of cosmetic nutrition
- aged skin
- and skins exposed to difficult conditions (wind, cold, etc.).

 These preparations are applied to perfectly cleansed and dried skin.

Claims (6)

 1) Cosmetic preparation comprising a skin nutrition composition comprising at least one essential fatty acid, characterized in that the nutrition composition also comprises trace elements and / or macro-elements chelated with at least one amino acid dermocompatible, and at least one vitamin compound, active vis-à-vis the cellular metabolism of the skin.  2) Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the vitamin compound is chosen from the compounds of vitamins A, E, C B1, PP, B5, B6, B8, and / or their provitamins.  3) Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the trace element and / or the macro-element are chosen from the following metals, namely Zn, Cu, Mn, Fe, Mg, Ca, Se.  4) Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the essential fatty acid is chosen from lipids rich in linoleic and / or linolenic acids, in particular rose hip oil, soybean oil, and the unsaponifiable fractions of olive oil.  5) Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises an anti-free radical complex comprising at least one bioflavonoid.  6) Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the skin nutrition composition represents at least 10% by weight of said preparation, the rest of which consists of a vehicle suitable for intra-dermal transfer of said composition.