Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
  • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
  • A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
  • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
  • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
  • A61K2800/612—By organic compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of makeup compositions for the skin . More specifically, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of hydrophobic treated pigments and hydrophilic treated pigments .
• the present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition for skin makeup, in particular to provide high coverage and natural makeup result , in a composition which remains fluid, and preferably allows for a fresh feeling when applied to the skin .
• pigments white , yellow, red, black, ...) .
• the pigments can be treated hydrophobically or hydrophilically .
• a composition comprises surface-treated pigments , they are all treated in the same manner, either hydrophobically or hydrophilically, depending on the composition in which they are intended to be introduced .
• compositions comprising hydrophobically treated pigments which will be dispersed in the oily phase , can provide high coverage , but they tend to be highly opaque and will lead to a very unnatural makeup result by marking or underlining wrinkles , pores and imperfections .
• Formulations comprising an aqueous continuous phase are reported to provide fresh feeling upon application and lighter textures .
• the makeup result is generally very natural , and the compositions ensure a pleasant sensation upon application on the skin .
• aqueous continuous phase formulations usually do not allow for a high and efficient coverage of imperfections .
• hydrophilic treated pigments have been developed to ensure their compatibil ity in such formulations , they do not make it possible to obtain aqueous continuous phase compositions with a sufficiently high amounts of pigments to provide the level of coverage obtained with oily continuous phase compositions .
• the composition should preferably be fluid/have a low viscosity to allow for a pleasant texture upon application on the skin and provide a fresh feeling when applied to the skin .
• the present invention intends to overcome all the above-mentioned issues thanks to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising :
• the hydrophilic treated pigment of (iii) is at least partially dispersed in the oily phase of the composition .
• the present invention discloses combining pigments whose surface is treated with different treatments , i . e . , hydrophobic and hydrophilic treatments , to achieve new textures , enhance performance benefits and overcome formulation challenges .
• hydrophilic treated pigments could be compatible with both the oily phase and the aqueous phase ( if present ) of the composition .
• This provides several additional benefits when formulating the claimed combination of hydrophobic treated pigments and hydrophilic treated pigments in the presence of water :
• a long-lasting cosmetic composition can be obtained, e . g. , a foundation with high levels of pigments, without sacrificing on sensory and comfort.
• the hydrophobic treatment ensures long wear, water- resistant, sweatproof and the hydrophilic treatment enables sebum absorption over time.
• the composition further provides a relatively high in naturality.
• the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising (i) an oily phase comprising at least an oil.
• oil refers to any compound that is not miscible in water and which is liquid at room temperature (i.e., 20°C) and atmospheric pressure (i.e., 1,013x105 Pa) . It should also be cosmetically and pharmaceutically acceptable.
• the oil is selected from the group consisting of a non-volatile oil, a volatile oil and mixtures thereof, preferably is a nonvolatile oil.
• the oil includes hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone-based oils, preferably hydrocarbon-based oils.
• non-volatile oil is understood to mean any liquid oil which is not capable of evaporating on contact with the skin, and thus remaining on the skin.
• volatile oil is understood to mean any liquid oil that is volatile at ambient temperature, especially has a vapor pressure, measured at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure , ranging from 10-3 mmHg to 300 mmHg ( 0 . 266 Pa to 40 000 Pa) .
• hydrocarbon-based oils means oils mainly containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms , and which may also comprise one or more functional group selected from alcohol , ether, ester and/or carboxylic acid groups .
• silicone-based oils means oils containing silicon atoms but also oxygen, carbon and hydrogen atoms . Silicone-based oils may also comprise one or more functional group such as alcohol , ether, ester and/or carboxylic acid groups .
• Non-limiting examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the invention are described below :
• Silicone-based oils include but are not limited to linear and cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes , polymethylphenylsiloxanes , phenyl dimethicones , phenyl trimethicones ; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids fatty alcohols , alkylene oxyalkylene groups or, amine group;
• Hydrocarbon-based oils include hydrocarbon oils , esters of fatty acids , fatty alcohols , fatty acids and/or vegetable oils .
• Hydrocarbon oils which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as liquid paraffins , mineral oil , squalane , squalene , polydecenes , polybutenes and derivatives ;
• esters of fatty acids of general formula R1COOR2 wherein Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms , preferably from 1 to 30 carbon atoms , more preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain which may be linear or branched too and containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms. These two carbon chains may be saturated or unsaturated.
• the esters may also contain a polyalkylene glycol branching such as polypropylene glycol or polyethylene glycol branching, for example PPG-2 myristyl ether propionate.
• compositions according to the invention may also comprise polyesters, i.e., compounds comprising more than one ester functional group such as diesters or triesters.
• polyesters i.e., compounds comprising more than one ester functional group such as diesters or triesters.
• Mention may be made of triglycerides formed by esterification of glycerol such as caprylic/capric triglyceride; esters of polyglycerine such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; triethylhexanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate or octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate.
• the carboxylic acid may also be cyclic, such as in esters of benzoic acid or esters of salicylic acid.
• Suitable fatty acid esters include without limitation tripropylene glycol dineopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkylglycol monoisostearate, neopentyl
• - Fatty alcohols preferably having from 5 to 40 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol.
• Fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, tall oil acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) , and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) .
• Vegetable oils and derivatives such as soybean oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, macadamia oil, liquid butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) , castor oil, camellia oil, gardenia oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, linseed oil, mink oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, teas seed oil, rice bran oil.
• Preferred non-volatile oils may include :
• coco-caprylate/caprate mixtures of coco alcohol esters with caprylic and capric acid ( coco-caprylate/caprate ) and alkanes of coco , such as the mixture with INCI name coconut alkanes ( and) coco-caprylate/caprate , sold under the name Vegelight 1214LC® from Biosynthis ,
• coco-caprylate/caprate mixtures of coco alcohol esters with caprylic and capric acid
• coco-caprylate/caprate such as the mixture with INCI name coco-caprylate/caprate , sold under the name Cetiol C5 from BASF , or mixtures of coco-caprylate/caprate and tocopherol ,
• squalane for example sold under the name Neossance squalane from Safic- Alcan .
• Non-limiting examples of volatile oils that can be used in the invention include linear or cyclic silicones oils that have a viscosity at ambient temperature of less than 8 cSt and that especially have from 2 to 7 silicon atoms , these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms .
• octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane , dodecamet hy Icy cl o “'hexasiloxane , heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane , heptamethyl- octyl-'trisiloxane , hexamethyldisiloxane , octamethyltrisiloxane , decamethyl tetrasil oxane , dodecamethylpentasiloxane , and mixtures thereof .
• volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, linear volatile alkanes from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, such as those sold under the names Vegelight 1214 from Biosynthis and Cetiol Ultimate from BASF.
• C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins)
• isododecane isodecane
• isohexadecane isohexadecane
• linear volatile alkanes from 9 to 14 carbon atoms
• the volatile oil is a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil as defined above.
• the amount of oil in the composition may be from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, and most preferably from 20% to 23% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) or the hydrophilic treated pigment of (iii) is selected from the group consisting of an organic pigment, a composite pigment, a lacquer and a mineral pigment .
• pigment means any pigments which can be used regardless of their forms (spherical, bar-like, needle-like, plate-like, infinite, scale-like, spindle-shaped etc.) , particle sizes (haze particles, fine particles, as small as pigment class etc.) , or particle structures (porous, imperforate etc.) .
• the term "pigment” includes white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in aqueous medium, intended to colour and/or opacify the composition .
• the pigment may be an organic pigment.
• the organic pigment may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone .
• the organic pigment may be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under references C111725, 15510,45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000,
• a composite pigment may be composed of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder which fixes the organic pigments to the core.
• the pigment can also be a lacquer. Lacquer means insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. Examples of lacquers include the product known as: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 : 1) .
• the pigment can be a mineral pigment .
• a mineral pigment is any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter Inorganic Pigment.
• Mineral pigments are chosen among zirconium or cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.
• the following mineral pigments can also be used: Ti 2 Os, TiaOs, Ti 2 Oa, TiO, ZrO 2 in mixture with TiCO 2 , ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , CeO 2 , ZnS .
• the pigment is a mineral pigment .
• the mineral pigment is an iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or titanium dioxide .
• iron oxide used can be those produced by Sensient Technologies Corporation under the product name UNIPURE YELLOW LC 182 HLC QUAL . STERILE, UNIPURE RED LC 381 HLC QUALITE STERILE.
• the size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 100 nm and 10 pm, preferably between 200 nm and 5 pm, and more preferably between 300 nm and 1 pm.
• the hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) is a single layer pigment. This in particular dist inguishes from multi-layer pigments (constituted of superpositions of layers of mineral or organic pigments and/or fillers ) or composite pigments (constituted of a substrate on which mineral or organic pigments or fillers are deposed) .
• the hydrophobic treated pigment of ( ii ) is not a composite pigment , in particular is not an alumina composite pigment , preferably is not an alumina substrate coated with organic or inorganic pigments .
• the hydrophobic treated pigment of ( ii ) is selected from the group consisting of an organic pigment , a lacquer and a mineral pigment .
• the hydrophobic treated pigment of ( ii ) is a mineral pigment , in particular a non- nanometric mineral pigment .
• a non-nanometric mineral pigment refers to a mineral pigment having more than 50% by number of primary particles greater than 100 nm in one or more dimensions , preferably all dimensions (D50 > 100 nm) .
• the hydrophilic treated pigment of ( iii ) is a mineral pigment , in particular a metal oxide ; preferably an iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or titanium dioxide (preferably non-nanometric) treated with a natural hydrophilic treatment such as "silica” , “silica and alumina” .
• the amount of the hydrophobic treated pigment of ( ii ) in the composition may be from 2% to 20% by weight , preferably from 5% to 15% by weight , and most preferably from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the amount of the hydrophilic treated pigment of (iii) in the composition may be from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, and most preferably from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the total amount of the hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) and the hydrophilic treated pigment of (iii) represents from 5% to 40% by weight or from 6% to 40% by weight, in particular from 10% to 40%, or from 15% to 40%, or from 20% to 40%, or from 25% to 40%, or from 30% to 40%, or from 35% to 40% by weight; more particularly from 10% to 35%, or from 15% to 35%, or from 20% to 35%, or from 25% to 35%, or from 30% to 35% by weight; preferably from 10% to 30%, or from 15% to 30%, or from 20% to 30%, or from 25% to 30%, or from 10% to 25%, or from 15% to 25%, or from 20% to 25%, or from 10% to 20%, or from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the total amount of the hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) and the hydrophilic treated pigment of (iii) represents from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .
• the ratio of the hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) to the total amount of the hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) and the hydrophilic treated pigment of (iii) represents from 0.05 to 0.95, preferably from 0.1 to 0.80, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.60.
• treated can be used interchangeably with the term “coated” or “surrounded” .
• one pigment whose surface is treated by a hydrophobic treatment or “hydrophobic treated pigment” means that the surface of the pigment has been treated with a compound to make it more hydrophobic.
• the hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) according to the invention is dispersed in the oily phase of the composition .
• Hydrophobic treatments according to the invention allow to tackle high coverage, dispersibility, fluidity and long wear.
• the surface of the pigment can be treated by a hydrophobic treatment, either through physical or chemical bonding.
• the hydrophobic treatment lowers the surface tension and prevents the pigment from agglomeration, lowers oil absorption, and makes the pigment easier to wet out resulting in more fluid types of formulas.
• the hydrophobic treatment provides easier dispersion of pigments, eliminating the need of grinding, better sensorial feeling, and longer lasting properties.
• Various hydrophobic treatments are commercially available from different suppliers.
• the surface of the at least one hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) is treated with (a) a synthetic compound selected from the group consisting of an alkyl silane, a polysilane, an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer, an alkyl titanate and mixtures thereof; and/or (b) a natural compound selected from the group consisting of a protein, a peptide, an amino acid, a phospholipid, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, metallic salts, a combination of a fatty acid and metallic salts, a combination of a fatty ester and an amino acid, a combination of a fatty acid and an amino acid, a natural wax, a natural wax flower, natural oils and mixtures thereof; preferably is selected from the group consisting of an alkyl silane, an alkyl titanate, an amino acid, natural oils, and mixtures thereof; more preferably is a natural compound (b) as defined above, even more preferably natural oils .
• Non-limiting examples of synthetic hydrophobic treatments that can be used in the present invention include :
• Methicone INCI "polymethylhydrogensiloxane” sold under commercial name “SI” or “SI2” by Daito, “SI” by Miyoshi or “MS” by Kobo
• Non-limiting examples of mixtures of synthetic hydrophobic treatments that can be used in the present invention include :
• Non-limiting examples of natural hydrophobic treatments that can be used in the present invention include :
• Non-limiting examples of mixtures of synthetic and natural hydrophobic treatments that can be used in the present invention include :
• hydrophobic treatments that can be used in the present invention include:
• Alkyl silane e.g., INCI "triethoxycaprilyl- silane” sold under commercial name “OTS” by Daito
• Alkyl-t itanate e.g., INCI "isopropyl titanium triisostearate" sold under commercial name ITT by Kobo
• Natural oils INCI "Persea gratissima (avocado) oil & hydrogenated vegetable oil & tocopherol” sold under the tradename “UNIPURE BA” by the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.
• hydrophobic treatments that can be used in the present invention include :
• one pigment whose surface is treated by a hydrophilic treatment or “hydrophilic treated pigment” means that the surface of the pigment has been treated with a compound to make it more hydrophilic .
• the hydrophilic treated pigment of ( iii ) according to the invention can be dispersed in the oily phase , in the aqueous phase (when present ) , or both in the oily phase and in the aqueous phase (when present ) of the composition .
• the hydrophilic treated pigment of ( iii ) is at least partially dispersed in the oily phase of the composition of the invention .
• the hydrophilic treated pigment of ( iii ) is fully dispersed in the oily phase of the composition of the invention .
• Hydrophilic treatment according to the invention allow to tackle freshness , fluidity and color homogeneity .
• Various hydrophilic treatments are commercially available from different suppliers .
• the surface of the at least one hydrophilic treated pigment of (iii) is treated with ( a) a synthetic compound such as a polyoxyethylene silane ; and/or (b) a natural compound selected from the group consisting of silica, chitosan, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof ; preferably polysaccharides and silica; more preferably silica .
• a synthetic compound such as a polyoxyethylene silane
• Non-limiting examples of natural hydrophilic treatments that can be used in the present invention include :
• hydrophilic treatments that can be used in the present invention include :
• hydrophilic treatments that can be used in the present invention include :
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise an aqueous phase .
• the hydrophobic treated pigments according to the invention are dispersed in the oily phase of the composition, and the hydrophilic treated pigments according to the invention can either be dispersed in the oily phase , in the aqueous phase (when present) , or both in the oily phase and in the aqueous phase (when present) of the composition.
• the aqueous phase when present, comprises at least water.
• the amount of water in the aqueous phase represents from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention can further comprise at least one humectant, such as polyols (glycerine, diglycerine, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, preferably glycerine, propanediol) , sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters, and polyquaterniums such as lipidure PMB .
• polyols glycos (glycerine, diglycerine, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, preferably glycerine, propanediol)
• sugars glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters
• polyquaterniums such as lipidure PMB .
• the amount of the humectant may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention can further comprise at least one alcohol such as C2-C4 alcohols, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, preferably ethanol.
• at least one alcohol such as C2-C4 alcohols, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, preferably ethanol.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention can further comprise an emulsifier such as fatty acids esterified with one or more polyglycerols, for example esters of polyglycerin such as polyglyceryl polyricinoleate or polyglyceryl diisostearate, preferably polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, for example sold under the name Inwitor 600 from IOI OLEO GMBH, and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, for example sold under the name CITHROL PG32IS-LQ- (MV) from CRODA.
• an emulsifier such as fatty acids esterified with one or more polyglycerols, for example esters of polyglycerin such as polyglyceryl polyricinoleate or polyglyceryl diisostearate, preferably polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, for example sold under the name Inwitor 600 from IOI OLEO GMBH, and polyglyceryl-3 diisostear
• the amount of the emulsifier may be from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• filler means a white or colorless solid particle, which is intended to give texture and body to cosmetic compositions.
• the fillers may also confer softness, matity and uniformity to the cosmetic compositions.
• the amount of said filler (s) may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• pearl pigments or nacres or pearlescent pigments chosen from titanium mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye, titanium mica covered with magnesium myristate, sold under the name MICA S/MM3-C by KOBO as well as pearl pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
• Said pearl pigments may represent from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• one or more active agent (s) of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin having a biological activity and having an effectiveness on the skin via biological sites, for example chosen from glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters, preferably sodium hyaluronate; vitamins such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) , vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or Niacinamide, panthenol, oligo elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (Palmitoyl tetrapept ide-7 , Palmitoyl Tripept ide-1 , Palmitoyl Pentapept ide-4 , Ace
• Said active agent may represent from 0 . 01% to 10% by weight , preferably from 0 . 1% to 5% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition .
• preservatives such as ammonium silver z inc, aluminium silicate , chlorophenesin, potassium sorbate , sodium dehydroacetate , phenoxyethanol , and mixtures thereof .
• sunscreens chosen from mineral and/or organic sunscreens .
• - dispersants chosen from polyhydroxy acids such as polyhydroxystearic acid, triglycerides formed by esterification of glycerol such as caprylic/capric triglyceride , fatty acids , esters of polyglycerin such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate , polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate , mixtures of glycerophospholipids such as lecithin, and mixtures thereof .
• polyhydroxy acids such as polyhydroxystearic acid
• triglycerides formed by esterification of glycerol such as caprylic/capric triglyceride
• fatty acids esters of polyglycerin
• esters of polyglycerin such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate , polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate
• mixtures of glycerophospholipids such as lecithin, and mixtures thereof .
• a suitable dispersant may be the mixture with INCI name POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE & I SOSTEARIC ACID & POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & LECITHIN, sold under the name APPLECARE PDS-300 MB by DKSH France .
• Other additives commonly used in cosmetics may also be present in the composition according to the invention (e . g . , film-forming polymers , antioxidants , perfumes ) .
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer, in the oily phase and/or in the aqueous phase .
• Radical film-forming polymer means a polymer obtained by polymerisation of unsaturated monomers , in particular ethylenic, each monomer being able to homopolymerise (unlike polycondensates ) .
• Film-forming polymers of the radical type may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers , in particular acrylic polymers .
• Vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerisation of ethylenic unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers .
• a monomer carrying an acid group use can be made of a, p-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or itaconic acid .
• a, p-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or itaconic acid .
• the monomer acid esters are advantageously chosen from esters of methacrylic acid (also called methacrylates ) , in particular alkyl methacrylates , especially C1-C30 alkyl methacrylates , preferably C1-C20 , aryl methacrylates , in particular Cg-Cio aryl methacrylates , hydroxyalkyl methacrylates , in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl methacrylates .
• methacrylic acid also called methacrylates
• alkyl methacrylates especially C1-C30 alkyl methacrylates , preferably C1-C20 , aryl methacrylates , in particular Cg-Cio aryl methacrylates , hydroxyalkyl methacrylates , in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl methacrylates .
• alkylmethacrylates mention can be made of methyl methacrylate , ethyl methacrylate , butyl methacrylate , i sobutyl methacrylate , ethyl-2 hexyl methacrylate , lauryl methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate .
• hydroxyalkyl methacrylates mention can be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate , 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate , hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate .
• aryl methacrylates mention can be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate...
• the particularly preferred methacrylic acid esters are alkyl methacrylates .
• monomer acid amides mention can for example be made of methacrylamides , and in particular N-alkyl methacrylamides , in particular C2-C12 alkyl methacrylamides .
• N-alkyl methacrylamides mention can be made of N-ethyl acrylamide , N-tert-butyl acrylamide , N-tert-octyl acrylamide and N-undecyl acrylamide .
• Vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerisation or copolymerisation of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers .
• these monomers may be polymerised with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amides thereof , such as those mentioned above .
• vinyl esters As an example of vinyl esters , mention can be made of vinyl acetate , vinyl neodecanoate , vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl tert-butyl benzoate .
• styrene monomers mention can be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene . Mention can also be made of styrene/butadiene block copolymers such as the products from the company Kraton, or OLEOFLEX EG 200 from the company APPLECHEM .
• film-forming polycondensates mention can be made of polyurethanes , polyesters , polyester amides , polyamides and epoxy ester resins and polyureas . .
• Polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes , acrylic polyurethanes , polyurethane-polyvinyl pyrrolidones , polyester-polyurethanes , polyetherpolyurethanes , polyureas , polyurea-polyurethanes , and mixtures thereof .
• the polyesters can be obtained, in a known fashion, by polycondensation of carboxylic acids with polyols , in particular diols .
• the dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic . Mention can be made as an example of such acids of : oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2 , 2-dimethylglutamic acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1 , 3- cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, 1 , 4-cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, 1 , 3-cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, 1 , 4-cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2 , 5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2 , 5-naphthal
• the diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic diols. Use is preferably made of a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propane diol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butane diol. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol or trimethylol propane can be used.
• Polyester amides can be chosen in a similar manner to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amine alcohols.
• a diamine use can be made of ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine or meta- or para-phenylenediamine .
• amino alcohol monoethanolamine can be used.
• polyamide resins mention can also be made of the one corresponding to the INCI name DIISOSTEARYL MALATE & BIS DIOCTADECYLAMIDE DIMER DILINOLEIC ACID/ETHYLENE DIAMINE COPOLYMER sold under the name Haimalate PAM by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo .
• the polyester may further comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+ or a metal ion, such as for example an Na+, Li + , K+, Mg2 + , Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+ ion.
• M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+ or a metal ion, such as for example an Na+, Li + , K+, Mg2 + , Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+ ion.
• a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a -SO3M group can in particular be used.
• the aromatic core of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further carrying a -SO3M group as described above can be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl or methylenediphenyl cores . Mention can be made as an example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also carrying a -SO3M group : sulfoisophthal ic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid and 4- sulf onaphthalene-2 , 7-dicarboxylic acid .
• Copolymers based on isophthalate/ sulf oisophthalate can be used, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol , cyclohexanedimethanol , isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid .
• Polymers of natural origin can be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM) , dammars , elemis , copal s , cellulosic polymers , polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and/or from the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel® sold by the company Silab) , and mixtures thereof .
• a natural polymer such as Filmexel® makes it poss ible in particular to improve the strength of the film obtained from the composition according to the invention .
• the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilised in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic solvents or oils ( it is then said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer) .
• liposoluble polymer mention can be made of copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly bonded to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical , linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms , bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer, which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present ) , an a-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms ) , an alkylvinyl ether (the alkyl group of which comprises from 2 to 18 carbon atoms ) , or an al lyl or methallyl ester (having a saturated hydrocarbon radical , linear or branched
• copolymers can be crosslinked by means of crosslinking agents which may be either of the vinyl type or of the allyl or methallyl type , such as tetraallyloxyethane , divinylbenzene , divinyl octanedioate , divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate .
• crosslinking agents may be either of the vinyl type or of the allyl or methallyl type , such as tetraallyloxyethane , divinylbenzene , divinyl octanedioate , divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate .
• copolymers examples include the following copolymers : vinyl acetate/allyl stearate , vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate , vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate , vinyl acetate/octadecene , vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate , vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate , vinyl stearate/octadecene-1 , vinyl acetate/dodecene-1 , vinyl stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate /cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate , vinyl 2 , 2- dimethyloctanoate/vinyl laurate , allyl 2 , 2-dimethyl pentanoate/vinyl laurate , vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate, allyl
• liposoluble film-forming polymers mention can also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from copolymerisation of vinyl esters having 9 to 22 carbon atoms or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the allyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
• Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from the copolymers of vinyl polystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked by means of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, the copolymers of poly(stearyl methacrylate) , vinyl polylaurate, poly (lauryl methacrylate) , these polymethacrylates being able to be crosslinked by means of methylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.
• the liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and are in particular described in the application FR- A-2232303; they may have a mean molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.
• liposoluble homopolymers and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerisation of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.
• liposoluble homopolymers examples include polyvinyl laurate and poly (lauryl methacrylate) , these polymethacrylates being able to be crosslinked by means of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.
• liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention, mention can also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular C2-C20 alkene copolymers, such as polybutene, alkyl celluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or not, Ci to Cs, such as ethyl cellulose and propyl cellulose, vinyl pyrrolidone (VP) copolymers and in particular copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and alkene, C2 to C40 and even better C3 to C20.
• polyalkylenes and in particular C2-C20 alkene copolymers such as polybutene, alkyl celluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or not, Ci to Cs, such as ethyl cellulose and propyl cellulose, vinyl pyrrolidone (VP) copolymers and in particular copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and alkene, C2 to C40 and even
• VP copolymer By way of an example of VP copolymer that can be used in the invention, mention can be made of the copolymer of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) , VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene (ANTARON V220 sold by the company Ashland) , VP/hexadecene (ANTARON V216 sold by the company Ashland) , VP/triacontene, VP/styrene, VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.
• PVP polyvinyl pyrrolidone
• ALARON V220 sold by the company Ashland
• VP/hexadecene VP/triacontene
• VP/styrene VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate
• dextrin esters and in particular :
• sucrose acetate isobutyrate sold under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by the company EASTMAN .
• silicone resins generally soluble or swelling in silicone oils , which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers .
• S ilicone resins are known by the name "MDTQ” , the resin being described according to the various monomeric siloxane units that it comprises , each of the letters "MDTQ” characterising a type of unit .
• TMS trimethylsiloxysilicate
• SR1000 by the company General Electric
• TMS 803 by the company Wacker
• DOWS ILTM 593 Fluid by the company Dow Corning .
• copolymers with a nonsilicone organic skeleton grafted by monomers containing a polysiloxane unit such as for example the butyl acrylate/hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer sold under the name GRANACRYS IL BAS by the company GRANT .
• silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in the documents US-A-5 . , 874 , 069 , US-A-5 , 919 , 441 , US-A- 6 , 051 , 216 and US-A-5 , 981 , 680 .
• Preferred examples of film-forming polymers include :
• TMS trimethylsiloxysilicate
• the composition according to the invention comprises from 0 . 1% to 10% by weight of a film-forming polymer, preferably 1% to 5% by weight of at least one film-forming polymer .
• the composition according to the invention does not compri se at least one filmforming polymer, in the oily phase and/or in the aqueous phase .
• compositions of the invention allow for obtaining high coverage compositions while ensuring a natural makeup result .
• the natural effect of a product can be correlated with a blurring/haze or soft-focus effect that enhances a natural look .
• the haze is defined by the following formula ( Ta/Ttot ) *100 , wherein : Ta is the diffuse transmittance of the composition : it is the ratio of the diffusely transmitted radiant power to incident radiant power ( specular component is excluded) . tot is the total transmittance of the composition : it is defined by the ratio of the total transmitted radiant power (diffuse and specular) to incident radiant power .
• the mattity is defined by the following formula (Rd/Rtot ) *100 , wherein :
• Rd is the diffuse reflectance of the composition : it is the ratio of the diffusely reflected radiant power to incident radiant power ( specular component is excluded) .
• Rtot is the total reflectance of the composition : it is defined by the ratio of the total reflected radiant power (diffuse and specular) to incident radiant power .
• a higher value of mattity indicates a better immediate matte effect .
• a higher total transmittance value indicates a better transparent film of composition on the skin .
• a higher value of haze indicates a better blurring effect .
• a lower diffuse reflectance value indicates a low white effect on the skin .
• the haze value of the composition according to the invention may be greater than 50% , preferably greater than or equal to 60% , more preferably greater than or equal to 75% .
• the total transmittance here also referred to as "transparency index” , may be greater than or equal to 20% , preferably greater than or equal to 30% , more preferably greater than or equal to 40% .
• the mattity may be , for example be greater than or equal to 70% , preferably greater than or equal to 75% , more preferably greater than or equal to 85% .
• the diffuse reflectance here also referred to as "whitening index" may be lower than or equal to 10% .
• Whitening is a measure of white cast that appears on the skin after the product is applied and is undesirable .
• Contrast ratio (Coverage) (Cw) 100*Ro/Rw, wherein : Rw refers to reflectance of the applied test film over a white substrate ;
• Ro refers to reflectance of the applied test film over a black substrate .
• the contrast ratio*Haze/viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is higher than 6 , preferably higher than 10 , more preferably higher than 40 , even more preferably between 40 and 65 .
• the present invention is also directed to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invent ion for skin makeup, in particular to provide high while natural coverage with fluidity and preferably allowing to provide a fresh feeling when applied to the skin .
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a makeup composition for keratin materials , preferably for the skin .
• the composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup composition for the face , preferably in the form of a foundation, a makeup base , concealer, a tinted cream or a mascara, more preferably in the form of a foundation .
• the composition is a foundation, it further contains at least one coloring agent as described above , in an amount sufficient to provide additional color to or change the color of the skin .
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in an emulsion form, preferably a water-in-oil comprising an oily continuous phase and an aqueous discontinuous phase .
• the invention also relates to a first method of preparation of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the steps of :
• the aqueous phase is added dropwise and slowly into the oily phase.
• step (a) of this first method the hydrophobic and hydrophilic treated pigments of (ii) and (iii) according to the invention are both introduced and dispersed in the oily phase.
• this first method comprises the steps (a) , (b) and (f) , preferably the steps (a) , (b) , (e) and (f) .
• both the hydrophobic and hydrophilic treated pigments according to the invention are dispersed in the oily phase.
• this first method comprises the steps (a) , (b) , (c) , (d) and (f) , preferably all steps (a) -(f) .
• the hydrophobic treated pigments of (ii) according to the invention are dispersed in the oily phase, and the hydrophilic treated pigments of
• the invention also relates to a second method of preparation of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the steps of:
• step (a) of this second method the hydrophobic treated pigments of (ii) according to the invention are introduced and dispersed in the oily phase
• step (c) of this second method the hydrophilic treated pigments of (iii) according to the invention are introduced and dispersed in the aqueous phase.
• the aqueous phase is added dropwise and slowly into the oily phase.
• this second method comprises all steps (a) -(f) .
• the invention also relates to a third method of preparation of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the steps of:
• step (a) of this third method the hydrophobic treated pigments of (ii) and part of the hydrophilic treated pigments of (iii) according to the invention are introduced and dispersed in the oily phase, and in step (c) of this third method, the remaining part of the hydrophilic treated pigments of (iii) according to the invention are introduced and dispersed in the aqueous phase.
• (iii) according to the invention are both dispersed in the oily phase and in the aqueous phase.
• the aqueous phase is added dropwise and slowly into the oily phase.
• this third method comprises all steps (a) -(f) .
• Figure 1 Comparative examples for which only hydrophilic treated pigments were used.
• Figure 1A using comparative example 7 ;
• Figure IB using comparative example 6 .
• Figure 2 Graphic representation of the performance score according to the proportion of pigments treated with a hydrophobic treatment on the total quantity of treated pigments .
• the blurring/haze or soft-focus effect can be measured by various methods known in the art and/or as described herein .
• the haze, (Ta/Ttot) *100 may be measured according to the protocol described below using a spectrophotometer and an integration sphere , for example placed behind the sample .
• the mattity, (Ra/Rtot) *100 may al so be measured by spectrophotometer with an integration sphere .
• the composition When a composition of the present invention was applied onto the skin, the composition had a homogeni z ing effect on skin, that is , the composition produced a blurring/haze or soft-focus effect on the skin as well as an immediate matte effect .
• the visibility of skin imperfections such as pores , wrinkles and fine lines were minimi zed .
• the compos ition of the present invention did not produce an undesirable whitish sheen or film on the skin but was transparent /translucent such that the skin had a natural appearance .
• composition according to the present invention comprising a combination of hydrophobic treated pigments and hydrophilic treated pigments allowed to obtain such haze , mattity, transparency index, and whitening index as defined above .
• High coverage is correlated with low transmittance , i . e . , with high reflectance .
• Reflectance can be measured by various methods well known in the art , for example by a Konica Minolta CM700d spectrophotometer . "Dry-film coverage" can also be tested by various methods well known in the art . Standard Test Methods for measuring the hiding power of powder coatings are disclosed in ASTM D 6441-05 .
• the films were dried for 15mn at room temperature .
• the machine was set in reflectance % mode at a wavelength scale ranging from 400 to 700 nm .
• 3 data points could be collected and the contrast ratio determined for wavelength scale ranged from 400 to 700 nm. Contrast ratio was based on an average of these data points .
• a high contrast ratio translates into a film with high coverage .
• Results a dry-film coverage of at least about 40% , at least about 50% , or at least about 60% was obtained .
• the viscosity of the samples was measured one day after the synthesis of the sample by a cone - plate rotating instrument .
• a Lamy Rheology CP2000 viscometer was set with a 4040 cone device or 6020 cone device at 20°C.
• Examples 1, 2, 4 of the invention and comparative examples 6 and 7 6020 cone was used to do the measurement .
• PHASE 1 In a side beaker, pre-mix HYDROPHOBIC PIGMENTS 101-104 and HYDROPHILIC PIGMENTS 105-108 with 109-111 (oils and dispersants) using a RAYNERI with propeller type blade.
• PHASE 2 Add ingredients 201/202/203 (emulsifiers and oils) to main beaker with grind. Mix until uniform.
• PHASE 3 In a side beaker prepare water phase. Pre-mix ingredients 301-304 (water, humectants, additives) together using propeller type mixing until uniform.
• PHASE 4 Add ingredients 401/402 (powder and pearl) to main beaker. Mix until uniform. ⁇ 2000rpm for 5 min .
• PHASE 5 Add 501 (ethanol) to main beaker. Mix until uniform. Stop.
• PHASE 1 In a side beaker, pre-mix HYDROPHOBIC PIGMENTS 101-104 and HYDROPHILIC PIGMENTS 105-108 with 109-111 (oils and dispersants) using a RAYNERI with propeller type blade.
• PHASE 2 Add ingredients 201/202/203 (emulsifiers and oils) to main beaker with grind. Mix until uniform.
• PHASE 3 Add ingredients 401/402 (powder and pearl) to main beaker. Mix until uniform. ⁇ 2000rpm for 5 min .
• PHASE 4 Add 501 (ethanol) to main beaker. Mix until uniform. Stop. Description of a sample preparation method of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
• PHASE 1 In a side beaker, pre-mix HYDROPHOBIC PIGMENTS 101-104 with 109-111 (oils and dispersants) using a RAYNERI with propeller type blade.
• PHASE 2 Add ingredients 201/202/203 (emulsifiers and oils) to main beaker with grind. Mix until uniform.
• PHASE 3 In a side beaker prepare water phase. Add 301 (water) . Begin mixing with RAYNERI with Propeller type blade to get a vortex. Add HYDROPHILIC PIGMENTS 105-108. Mix until the pigments are well dispersed. Then add remaining ingredients 302-304 (humectants, additives) together using propeller type mixing until uniform.
• PHASE 4 Add ingredients 401/402 (powder and pearl) to main beaker. Mix until uniform. ⁇ 2000rpm for 5 min .
• the viscosity is measured in mPa . s
• the performance score was calculated for each composition according to the invention and for the comparative compositions for which the optical measurements of the haze could be made .
• HO Hydrophobic treated pigments
• HI Hydrophilic treated pigments
• Contrast rat io*Haze/viscosity impossible to measure because the formula did not form a homogeneous deposit onto the contrast card (see Figure 1) .
• the ratio of the at least one hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) to the total amount of the at least one hydrophobic treated pigment of (ii) and the at least one hydrophilic treated pigment of (iii) was ranging from 0.05 to 0.95, preferably from 0.1 to 0.80, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.60.
• the contrast ratio*Haze/viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention was higher than 6, preferably higher than 10, more preferably higher than 40, even more preferably between 40 and 65.

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