Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

• composition comprising an organic UV-screening agent, a superabsorbant polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol
• the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, especially an aqueous composition, comprising at least one organic UV-screening agent, at least one particular superabsorbent polymer, perlite and at least one fatty alcohol.
• photoprotective compositions are already known to date for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They mostly contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV- screening agents, conveyed in an oily phase and/or in an aqueous phase as anti-UV active agent and are generally proposed in a presentation form of emulsion or gel type.
• UV-screening agents do not lend themselves to easy production of compositions having a stabilized and pleasant texture.
• formulations with high screening power generally have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulations.
• the weak point of photoprotective formulations with a high protection factor is often a strong greasy and tacky feel, and thus a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application, thus not being invisible on the skin.
• aqueous presentation forms have already been considered.
• these aqueous compositions containing UV-screening agents are generally tacky and thus uncomfortable, but also very fluid.
• this solution is not satisfactory since the structuring polymers generally selected not always very resistant to electrolytes and can also degrade the sensory properties of the compositions in terms of tack.
• the objective of the invention is to develop a product with an advantageous sensory aspect, in particular with a fondant sensory aspect and a non-greasy and non-tacky finish, allowing high daily photoprotection and which can be sold in packaging conventionally used in the skincare field, in particular a formulation in jars.
• the present invention is specifically directed towards meeting these needs.
• the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
• a photoprotective composition of the combination of a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, of perlite and of a fatty alcohol makes it possible to obtain a galenical formulation with a high anti-UV protective power, which is nevertheless stabilized over time, and which has a strong refreshing power and is preferably transparent on the skin.
• a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, with perlite and at least one fatty alcohol makes it possible to obtain an aqueous galenical formulation which is stabilized and which has a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a high anti-UV protective power.
• a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, of perlite and of a fatty alcohol, in an aqueous photoprotective composition advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which are generally antagonistic to one another.
• a subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above, for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and/or facial skin.
• Another subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the bodily and/or facial skin, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.
• the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
• the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
• stable composition is intended to mean a composition which, after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, retains its pleasantness and its sensory signature on application. More specifically, for the purposes of the present invention, the term “stable composition” is intended to mean an acceptable change in viscosity, that is to say that the difference between the initial viscosity and the viscosity after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, remains less than 10%, preferably less than 5%.
• a “ stable composition ” exhibits moreover a difference between the initial pH and the pH after storage for at least one month, preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, of less than 0.3 and does not exhibit any phase separation phenomenon after storage for at least one month, preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C.
• a “ stable composition” does not exhibit crystals after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C.
• transparent composition is intended to mean a composition which, when it is applied to the skin, for example at a thickness of 5 mm, is transparent, that is to say that it allows the skin to be seen. This transparency can be assessed visually, with the naked eye.
• SPDF Sun Protection Factor
• SPDF Sun Protection Factor
• the value of the SPF corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time necessary to obtain sunburn with an anti-sun composition and the minimum time without product. More specifically, the term "SPF” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).
• SPF Stress Protection Factor
• the plate is the material to which the anti-sun composition is applied.
• PMMA poly(methyl methacrylate)
• PPD Persistent Pigment Darkening
• JCIA Japan Cosmetic Industry Association
• composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
• physiologically acceptable medium is understood here to mean a medium which is compatible with keratin materials.
• keratin material is understood to mean in particular the skin, scalp, keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair and body hair, nails, mucous membranes, such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
• the term “preventing” or “prevention” is intended to mean reducing the risk or occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.
• organic UVA-screening agent is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA rays in the wavelength range of between 320 and 400 nm; it being possible for said molecules to likewise also absorb UVB rays in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.
• organic UVB-screening agent is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.
• compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV-screening agents.
• Said organic UV-screening agents can be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV- screening agents, lipophilic organic UV-screening agents and insoluble organic UV-screening agents.
• hydrophilic UV-screening agent is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
• lipophilic screening agent is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
• insoluble UV-screening agent is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by Dynamit Nobel.
• This solubility, determined at 70°C is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.
• the organic UV-screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, such as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2463 264; p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, such as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE
• Cinnamic compounds [0043] Cinnamic compounds:
• Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products,
• Neo Heliopan E 1000 Isoamyl p-m ethoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 ® by Symrise, DEA Methoxycinnamate,
• Dibenzoylmethane compounds Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789 ® by DSM Nutritional Products,
• Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name Escalol 507® by ISP,
• PEG-25 PABA sold under the name Uvinul P 25® by BASF.
• Salicylic compounds [0046] Salicylic compounds:
• Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise,
• TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise.
• Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 539® by BASF,
• Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 35® by BASF.
• Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400® by BASF,
• Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF,
• Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul M 40® by BASF
• Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS 40® by BASF
• Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11® by Norquay,
• Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24® by American Cyanamid
• Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name Uvinul DS 49® by BASF
• Benzophenone- 12, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul A Plus® or, as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul A Plus B® by BASF,
• Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex,
• Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
• Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP® by Haarmann and Reimer.
• Methylenebis(hvdroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB/100® by Fairmount Chemical, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure C n H 2n+i O(C 6 Hio0 5 ) x H, wherein n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the (C6H10O5) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2303 549, sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M® by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles
• Neo Heliopan MA® Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA® by Symrise.
• Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.
• the preferential organic screening agents are chosen from:
• Drometrizole Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.
• the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:
• the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:
• Ethylhexyl Triazone and mixtures thereof.
• the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:
• Ethylhexyl Triazone and mixtures thereof.
• the composition is free of octocrylene.
• free of octocrylene is intended to mean a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene.
• the organic UV-screening agents can be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV-screening agent.
• the inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 pm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm. [0069] They can be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.
• Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.
• commercial pigments mention may be made of the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
• the metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.
• the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
• compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
• coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated:
• silica such as the products Sunveil® from Ikeda, Sunsil Tin 50 from Sunjin Beauty Science,
• alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W® and Solaveil CT 100® from Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck,
• iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F® from Tayca
• T1O2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese.
• said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion.
• the oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric/caprylic acids.
• the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles can additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents, such as, for example, a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid ester, such as Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate.
• the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid esters.
• the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B®, by Degussa under the name P 25, by Wackher under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW®, by Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR®, by Tomen under the name ITS® and by Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
• the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
• Nanogard WCD 2025 those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 ® by Nanophase Technologies.
• coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
• Zinc Oxide CS-5® sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5® by Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);
• Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® sold under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate);
• Daitopersion Zn-30 ® and Daitopersion Zn-50 ® by Daito those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-30 ® and Daitopersion Zn-50 ® by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated cyclopolymethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);
• Nanox Gel TN ® those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN ® by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at a concentration of 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
• the uncoated cerium oxide pigments can, for example, be those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide ® by Rhone-Poulenc.
• the uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Amaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002 ® (FE 45B ® ), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ ® and Nanogard WCD 2006 ® (FE 45R ® ) or by Mitsubishi under the name TY-220 ® .
• the coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN) ® , Nanogard WCD 2009 ® (FE 45B 556 ® ), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345 ® and Nanogard FE 45 BL ® or by BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide ® .
• titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide including the mixture in equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by Ikeda under the name Sunveil A ® , and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261 ® sold by Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211 ® sold by Sachtleben Pigments.
• coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
• the mineral UV- screening agents are advantageously present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.
• superabsorbent polymer is intended to mean a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and especially distilled water.
• superabsorbent polymers are described in the work "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. Brannon- Pappas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.
• the superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 100 000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water.
• the value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 pm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
• the superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles.
• the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated form, a mean size of less than or equal to 100 pm and preferably less than or equal to 50 pm, for example ranging from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 5 to 50 pm and better still from 7 to 30 pm.
• the mean size of the particles corresponds to the weight-average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell while forming soft particles having a mean size that can range from 10 pm to 1000 pm.
• the superabsorbent polymers according to the invention are starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.
• the acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate.
• Such polymers have gelling properties and a feel close to that conferred by a silicone compound (“silicone-like” feel).
• the used superabsorbent polymers comprise from 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they are constituted of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.
• the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) is greater than 1000 daltons.
• the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.
• the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in particulate form.
• the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles.
• the superabsorbent polymer(s) may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition in accordance with the invention comprises perlite.
• the perlite is in particular in the form of particles.
• Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, of glossy black or light gray color, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava, and which is in the form of small particles resembling pearls.
• the perlites which can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and advantageously have the composition:
• silica SiCh 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiCh ,
• the perlite particles used according to the invention are in porous expanded form.
• the perlite is milled, dried and then calibrated in a first step.
• the product obtained known as perlite ore, is gray-colored and has a size of about 100 pm.
• the perlite ore is then expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles.
• the expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention may be obtained via the expansion process described in patent US 5 002698.
• the perlite particles used are milled; in this case, they are known as
• EMP Expanded Milled Perlite
• They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm, and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm.
• the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are less than 20 pm in size. In addition, they preferentially have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles are less than 55 pm in size, and preferably less than 40 pm in size. It is moreover preferred for 90% by weight of the particles to be greater than 5 pm in size.
• the perlite particles used in the context of the invention have a loose bulk density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m 3 (standard DIN 53468), and preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m 3 .
• the weight content of perlite in the composition in accordance with the invention is advantageously from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the weight ratio between the perlite and the superabsorbent polymer (amount by weight of perlite/amount by weight of superabsorbent polymer) is between 0.5 and 7, and preferably between 1 and 5.
• composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
• the fatty alcohol(s) are linear, and saturated or unsaturated, and comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
• the fatty alcohols are solid.
• the fatty alcohol(s) that are suitable for the invention can be chosen from the group comprising cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and myricyl alcohol; they are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
• cetyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 16/98 P/MB and Ecorol® 16/98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 16 by BASF, Vegarol® 1698 by VVF, Alkonat® 1698 P by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 by Kao and Thaiol 1698 by Thai Fatty Alcohols.
• stearyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 18/98 P/MB and Ecorol® 18/98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 18 by BASF, Kalcol® 8098 by Kao, Nacol® 18-98 by Sasol and Vegarol® 1898 by VVF.
• cetylstearyl alcohols that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 68/50 F and Ecorol® 68/50 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® O OR and Lanette® O OR/MB by BASF, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN by Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50/50 by Industria Quimica Del Centro, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 by Emery Oleochemicals, Kalcol® 6850 by Kao, Vegarol® 1618 (50:50) by VVF and Ginol® 1618 50:50 OR by Godrej Industries.
• behenyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the name Lanette 22 by BASF, Vegarol® 2270 by VVF and Nafol® 18-22 by Sasol.
• the composition according to the invention comprises a content of fatty alcohols ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition in accordance with the invention also comprises at least one C1-C4 alcohol.
• the C1-C4 lower alcohol(s) used in the context of the invention can be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol.
• the alcohol used is ethanol.
• the content of C1-C4 alcohols, when they are present, is between 2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 3% and 7% by weight, better still between 4% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one organic filler.
• organic filler is understood to mean any organic solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C).
• organic is understood to mean any compound or polymer, the chemical structure of which comprises at least one or more carbon atoms.
• the composition according to the invention comprises an N-acylamino acid powder.
• the N-acylamino acid(s) can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
• the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
• the N-acylamino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder.
• the N-acylamino acid powder may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the weight ratio between the N-acylamino acid powder and the perlite is advantageously between 1 and 5, preferably between 1 and 3.
• the weight ratio between the N-acylamino acid powder and the superabsorbent polymer (amount by weight of N-acylamino acid powder/amount by weight of superabsorbent polymer) can be between 0.5 and 20; it is preferably between 1 and 15.
• composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS ® ).
• AMPS ® acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid
• the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer comprising at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (AMPS ® ), in free form or in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.
• a mineral base sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia
• organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.
• AMPS ® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.
• crosslinked polymer is intended to mean a nonlinear polymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.
• the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefmically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
• crosslinking agents
• the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
• TMPTA trimethylolpropane triacrylate
• the degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
• the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomers preferably correspond to the general formula below:
• X + denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations
• Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical such as methyl, and Ri preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
• the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are partially or completely salified in the form of the ammonium salt.
• the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are completely salified, preferably in the form of the ammonium salt.
• AMPS ® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:
• the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
• the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprise at least one fatty chain.
• fatty chain is understood to mean any hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms.
• water-soluble or water-dispersible means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a weight concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.
• the "homopolymers” according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
• the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert- butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
• the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;
• a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10°C to 150°C; the polymer precipitates from the tert-butanol- based solution or dispersion.
• the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
• the water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.
• ionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:
• - Ri is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 ;
• - Xi is chosen from:
• R 2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO 3 ) and/or sulfate (SO 4 ) and/or phosphate (-PO 4 H 2 ) group.
• nonionic water-soluble comonomers mention may be made in particular of:
• N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
• R 3 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 or -C 3 H 7 ;
• - X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR 4 where R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
• R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
• Mention may be made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol
• hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain
• R- 4 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;
• X 3 is chosen from: - alkyl oxides of the type -OR5 where R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• Mention may be made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2- ethylhexyl acrylate.
• the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
• water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® homopolymers suitable for the invention for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ® by Clariant.
• CFA name Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
• ICI name Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
• AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
• the water-soluble water-dispersible AMPS copolymer comprises at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups
• the hydrophobic group is a branched or unbranched, and saturated or unsaturated fatty hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 and 50 carbon atoms.
• the copolymer(s) may be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.
• the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, and even more preferentially they are crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
• the AMPS® copolymer(s) comprise at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one fatty hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
• the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula below:
• Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl
• Y denotes O or NH
• R2 denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms
• x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.
• Y denotes an oxygen atom
• the Ri group represents a methyl
• x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
• x is preferably equal to 4.
• R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
• Y denotes an oxygen atom
• the group Ri represents a methyl
• the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms
• x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
• the hydrophobic monomer of formula 6 is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula 6 wherein the Y group denotes O, the R2 group represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.
• the monomer with a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
• the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 6 wherein x is equal to 0, with Y representing an oxygen atom, the Ri group representing a methyl, and the R2 group representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
• the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.
• the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 6 wherein x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group Ri representing a methyl, and the group R2 representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and at least one monomer of formula 6 wherein Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group Ri represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
• the AMPS® copolymer comprises, as monomers bearing a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
• the AMPS® copolymer(s) also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, preferably corresponding to the following general formula:
• Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical
• Ri preferably denotes a hydrogen atom
• R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical
• R3 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical
• R2 and R3 preferably denote a methyl.
• the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and the esters ((meth)acrylates) thereof, such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidones, N- (Ci-C4)alkylacrylamides, and N,N-di(Ci-C4)alkylacrylamides such as N,N- dimethylacrylamide.
• the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
• the AMPS® copolymer is chosen from the copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, preferably completely salified, of N,N- dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, preferably crosslinked, for instance the copolymer sold under the name Sepimax Zen by SEPPIC, and of INCI name Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.
• the AMPS® polymer(s) described above may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition does not comprise any additional hydrophilic polymers.
• the concentration of superabsorbent polymer is advantageously between 1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition comprises at least one additional hydrophilic polymer chosen from the AMPS homopolymers and copolymers as described above.
• the composition comprises the combination of an AMPS homopolymer and an AMPS copolymer.
• the concentration of superabsorbent polymer is advantageously between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
• the concentration of additional hydrophilic polymer(s) is advantageously between 0.1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
• the weight ratio between the superabsorbent polymer and the additional hydrophilic polymer(s) is between 0.2 and 1.
• composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one oily phase.
• oil phase means a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.
• oil is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the oily phase may comprise, in addition to the lipophilic screening agent(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) according to the invention, at least one volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based oil and/or one volatile and/or nonvolatile silicone oil and/or one volatile and/or nonvolatile fluoro oil.
• silicon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-0 group.
• hydrocarbon-based oil is understood to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen.
• these oils may in particular contain one or more carboxyl, ester, ether, hydroxyl functions.
• fluoro oil refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
• volatile oil is intended to mean an oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
• nonvolatile oil is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapor pressure of less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
• nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of:
• hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil Jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those
• synthetic esters such as the oils of formula RCOOR' wherein R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2- ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl
• fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyl octanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
• higher C 12 -C 22 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid
• carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; and mixtures thereof.
• nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol.
• the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.
• Cx-Cir > alkanes such as Cx-Cir > isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecan
• volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell, can also be used.
• the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
• the nonvolatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from nonvolatile poly dimethyl siloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which groups are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain and each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
• PDMSs nonvolatile poly dimethyl siloxanes
• phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones
• Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8x 10 6 m 2 /s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
• volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
• R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
• Use may also be made of volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.
• volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.
• An oily phase according to the invention can additionally comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.
• Another fatty substance which can be present in the oily phase can, for example, be:
• waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, rice bran wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;
• a pasty compound such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives;
• the overall oily phase including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
• the aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water- miscible organic solvents.
• An aqueous phase which is suitable for the invention can comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
• a natural spring water such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
• the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for the invention comprise, in addition to the short-chain alcohols, as defined above, diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3 -butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, di ethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
• the composition comprises an amount of glycerol of less than 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
• the overall aqueous phase including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can be provided in particular in the form of a simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) emulsion, such as a cream, a milk or a gel -cream.
• a simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) emulsion such as a cream, a milk or a gel -cream.
• the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
• compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions are of the paddle or propeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.
• the emulsions generally may contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
• the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
• W/O emulsifying surfactants of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; or silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols, for example the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C ® by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl methicone copolyol, sold under the name Dow Coming 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Coming, or cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R ® by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 ® by Goldschmidt. It is
• non-silicone emulsifying surfactants in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.
• polyol alkyl esters of polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxy stearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 ® by ICI.
• glycerol and/or sorbitan esters for example, of polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 ® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 ® by ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 ® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
• polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 ® by Goldschmidt
• sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 ® by ICI
• sorbitan glyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 ® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
• O/W emulsions for example, as nonionic emulsifying surfactants, of polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol such as the esters of polyethylene glycol and of stearic acid having the INCI name PEG- 100 stearate, sold under the name Myrj SIOO-PA-(SG) by Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxy
• the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in document WO-A-92/06778.
• the aqueous phase of the latter can comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
• compositions according to the invention have applications in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for protecting and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or hair and/or for making up the skin and/or lips.
• compositions according to the invention as defined above in the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular of care products, sun protection products and make-up products.
• composition ingredients are given as % by weight of starting materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products.
• compositions are evaluated macroscopically (Appearance, Color, Odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 month and 2 months at 45°C.
• Example - Compositions 1 to 5 [00239] The following compositions are prepared. [Table 1]
• the phase is kept at a temperature of 50°C.
• phase B UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s)
• Phase B is introduced into phase A. An emulsion is thus obtained at high shear.
• Phase C q.s. water
• Phase D fillers
• Phase E is introduced into phase A+B+C with stirring.
• Phase E is added at the end of production.
• compositions according to the invention which comprise UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized with regards, firstly, to the consistency, in particular an uptake in the hand and a suppleness suitable for formulation in a jar, and secondly to the sensoriality, in particular they are not greasy and not tacky, while at the same time being light and soft and having a fondant nature.
• composition 1 the sensoriality of the comparative compositions not comprising perlite (composition 1) or not comprising superabsorbent polymer (composition 2) is not satisfactory, both with regard to the greasiness and the tackiness and with regard to the lightness, the softness and the fondant nature, and the comparative composition not comprising fatty alcohols (composition 3) has a consistency (uptake in the hand, suppleness) which does not facilitate formulation in ajar.
• the phase is kept at a temperature of 75°C.
• phase B lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s), oil(s), hydrophobic active agent(s) and hydrophobic preserving agent(s)
• Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65°C under a rotor/stator.
• Phase C (q.s. water) is added at 60°C.
• the hydrophilic screening agent is added at 40°C.
• phase E at 40°C phase E at 40°C
• phase F at 40°C phase F at 40°C
• phases G and H at 30°C-35°C.
• compositions 6 to 9 according to the invention which comprise UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized with regards, firstly, to the consistency, in particular an uptake in the hand and a suppleness suitable for formulation in ajar, and secondly to the sensoriality, in particular they are not greasy and not tacky, while at the same time being light and soft and having a fondant nature.
• composition stability results are as follows: [Table 5] [00264]
• compositions 6 to 9 which comprise UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are stable. This stability is improved when the amount of superabsorbent polymer is increased or when the superabsorbent polymer is combined with an AMPS polymer.
• Example 3 Compositions 10 to 12
• the phase is kept at a temperature of 75°C.
• phase B lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s), oil(s), hydrophobic active agent(s) and hydrophobic preserving agent(s)
• Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65°C under a rotor/stator.
• Phase C (q.s. water) is added at 60°C.
• the hydrophilic screening agent is added at 40°C.
• phase E at 40°C phase E at 40°C
• phase F at 40°C phase F at 40°C
• phases G and H at 30°C-35°C.
• compositions 10 to 12 according to the invention which comprise UV- screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer optionally combined with an AMPS polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, exhibit a pleasant sensoriality suitable for daily use. Their consistency is suitable for formulation in ajar.
• Example 4 Compositions 13 and 14
• the phase is kept at a temperature of 75°C.
• phase B lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactants, hydrophobic polymers, oils, hydrophobic active agents and hydrophobic preserving agents
• Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65°C under a rotor/stator.
• Phase C (q.s. water) is added at 60°C.
• the hydrophilic screening agent is added 40°C.
• phase E at 40°C phase E at 40°C
• phase F at 40°C phase F at 40°C
• phases G and H at 30°C-35°C.
• compositions 13 and 14 according to the invention which comprise UV- screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer optionally combined with an AMPS polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, exhibit a pleasant sensoriality suitable for daily use. Their consistency is suitable for formulation in ajar.
• Example - Compositions 15 to 18 [00290] The following compositions are prepared. [Table 9]
• the phase is kept at a temperature of 50°C.
• phase B UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s)
• Phase B is introduced into phase A. An emulsion is thus obtained at high shear.
• Phase C q.s. water
• Phase D fillers
• Phase E is introduced into phase A+B+C with stirring.
• Phase E is added at the end of production.
• composition 18 which comprises UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized with regards, firstly, to the consistency, in particular an uptake in the hand and a suppleness suitable for formulation in a jar, and secondly to the sensoriality, in particular they are not greasy and not tacky, while at the same time being light and soft and having a fondant nature.
• composition 17 the sensoriality of the comparative composition comprising silica instead of perlite
• compositions 15 and 16 are instable, which render impossible the evaluation of their consistency and their sensoriality.

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• Birds (AREA)
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• Emergency Medicine (AREA)
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• Cosmetics (AREA)

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• 2021
  • 2021-02-25 FR FR2101861A patent/FR3119988B1/fr active Active
• 2022
  • 2022-02-22 EP EP22707128.9A patent/EP4297718A2/de active Pending
  • 2022-02-22 WO PCT/EP2022/054341 patent/WO2022180010A2/en not_active Ceased

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