WO2022180010A2 - Composition comprising an organic uv-screening agent, a superabsorbant polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol - Google Patents

Composition comprising an organic uv-screening agent, a superabsorbant polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022180010A2
WO2022180010A2 PCT/EP2022/054341 EP2022054341W WO2022180010A2 WO 2022180010 A2 WO2022180010 A2 WO 2022180010A2 EP 2022054341 W EP2022054341 W EP 2022054341W WO 2022180010 A2 WO2022180010 A2 WO 2022180010A2
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composition
weight
organic
chosen
amps
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PCT/EP2022/054341
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French (fr)
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WO2022180010A3 (en
Inventor
Sandrine Tancelin
Sandra Rabussier
Lais Moreira LIMA
Stéphane DOUEZAN
Lovely RIGUEUR
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L'oreal
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Priority to EP22707128.9A priority Critical patent/EP4297718A2/en
Publication of WO2022180010A2 publication Critical patent/WO2022180010A2/en
Publication of WO2022180010A3 publication Critical patent/WO2022180010A3/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • composition comprising an organic UV-screening agent, a superabsorbant polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol
  • the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, especially an aqueous composition, comprising at least one organic UV-screening agent, at least one particular superabsorbent polymer, perlite and at least one fatty alcohol.
  • photoprotective compositions are already known to date for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They mostly contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV- screening agents, conveyed in an oily phase and/or in an aqueous phase as anti-UV active agent and are generally proposed in a presentation form of emulsion or gel type.
  • UV-screening agents do not lend themselves to easy production of compositions having a stabilized and pleasant texture.
  • formulations with high screening power generally have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulations.
  • the weak point of photoprotective formulations with a high protection factor is often a strong greasy and tacky feel, and thus a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application, thus not being invisible on the skin.
  • aqueous presentation forms have already been considered.
  • these aqueous compositions containing UV-screening agents are generally tacky and thus uncomfortable, but also very fluid.
  • this solution is not satisfactory since the structuring polymers generally selected not always very resistant to electrolytes and can also degrade the sensory properties of the compositions in terms of tack.
  • the objective of the invention is to develop a product with an advantageous sensory aspect, in particular with a fondant sensory aspect and a non-greasy and non-tacky finish, allowing high daily photoprotection and which can be sold in packaging conventionally used in the skincare field, in particular a formulation in jars.
  • the present invention is specifically directed towards meeting these needs.
  • the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
  • a photoprotective composition of the combination of a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, of perlite and of a fatty alcohol makes it possible to obtain a galenical formulation with a high anti-UV protective power, which is nevertheless stabilized over time, and which has a strong refreshing power and is preferably transparent on the skin.
  • a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, with perlite and at least one fatty alcohol makes it possible to obtain an aqueous galenical formulation which is stabilized and which has a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a high anti-UV protective power.
  • a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, of perlite and of a fatty alcohol, in an aqueous photoprotective composition advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which are generally antagonistic to one another.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above, for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and/or facial skin.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the bodily and/or facial skin, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
  • stable composition is intended to mean a composition which, after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, retains its pleasantness and its sensory signature on application. More specifically, for the purposes of the present invention, the term “stable composition” is intended to mean an acceptable change in viscosity, that is to say that the difference between the initial viscosity and the viscosity after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, remains less than 10%, preferably less than 5%.
  • a “ stable composition ” exhibits moreover a difference between the initial pH and the pH after storage for at least one month, preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, of less than 0.3 and does not exhibit any phase separation phenomenon after storage for at least one month, preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C.
  • a “ stable composition” does not exhibit crystals after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C.
  • transparent composition is intended to mean a composition which, when it is applied to the skin, for example at a thickness of 5 mm, is transparent, that is to say that it allows the skin to be seen. This transparency can be assessed visually, with the naked eye.
  • SPDF Sun Protection Factor
  • SPDF Sun Protection Factor
  • the value of the SPF corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time necessary to obtain sunburn with an anti-sun composition and the minimum time without product. More specifically, the term "SPF” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).
  • SPF Stress Protection Factor
  • the plate is the material to which the anti-sun composition is applied.
  • PMMA poly(methyl methacrylate)
  • PPD Persistent Pigment Darkening
  • JCIA Japan Cosmetic Industry Association
  • composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is understood here to mean a medium which is compatible with keratin materials.
  • keratin material is understood to mean in particular the skin, scalp, keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair and body hair, nails, mucous membranes, such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
  • the term “preventing” or “prevention” is intended to mean reducing the risk or occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.
  • organic UVA-screening agent is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA rays in the wavelength range of between 320 and 400 nm; it being possible for said molecules to likewise also absorb UVB rays in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.
  • organic UVB-screening agent is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.
  • compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV-screening agents.
  • Said organic UV-screening agents can be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV- screening agents, lipophilic organic UV-screening agents and insoluble organic UV-screening agents.
  • hydrophilic UV-screening agent is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • lipophilic screening agent is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
  • insoluble UV-screening agent is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by Dynamit Nobel.
  • This solubility, determined at 70°C is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.
  • the organic UV-screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, such as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2463 264; p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, such as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE
  • Cinnamic compounds [0043] Cinnamic compounds:
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products,
  • Neo Heliopan E 1000 Isoamyl p-m ethoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 ® by Symrise, DEA Methoxycinnamate,
  • Dibenzoylmethane compounds Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789 ® by DSM Nutritional Products,
  • Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name Escalol 507® by ISP,
  • PEG-25 PABA sold under the name Uvinul P 25® by BASF.
  • Salicylic compounds [0046] Salicylic compounds:
  • Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise,
  • TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise.
  • Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 539® by BASF,
  • Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 35® by BASF.
  • Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400® by BASF,
  • Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF,
  • Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul M 40® by BASF
  • Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS 40® by BASF
  • Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11® by Norquay,
  • Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24® by American Cyanamid
  • Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name Uvinul DS 49® by BASF
  • Benzophenone- 12, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul A Plus® or, as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul A Plus B® by BASF,
  • Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex,
  • Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
  • Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP® by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Methylenebis(hvdroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB/100® by Fairmount Chemical, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure C n H 2n+i O(C 6 Hio0 5 ) x H, wherein n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the (C6H10O5) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2303 549, sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M® by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles
  • Neo Heliopan MA® Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA® by Symrise.
  • Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.
  • the preferential organic screening agents are chosen from:
  • Drometrizole Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:
  • the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:
  • Ethylhexyl Triazone and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:
  • Ethylhexyl Triazone and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition is free of octocrylene.
  • free of octocrylene is intended to mean a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene.
  • the organic UV-screening agents can be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV-screening agent.
  • the inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 pm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm. [0069] They can be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.
  • Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.
  • commercial pigments mention may be made of the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
  • the metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.
  • the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated:
  • silica such as the products Sunveil® from Ikeda, Sunsil Tin 50 from Sunjin Beauty Science,
  • alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W® and Solaveil CT 100® from Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck,
  • iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F® from Tayca
  • T1O2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese.
  • said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion.
  • the oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric/caprylic acids.
  • the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles can additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents, such as, for example, a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid ester, such as Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate.
  • the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid esters.
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B®, by Degussa under the name P 25, by Wackher under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW®, by Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR®, by Tomen under the name ITS® and by Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • Nanogard WCD 2025 those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 ® by Nanophase Technologies.
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • Zinc Oxide CS-5® sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5® by Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);
  • Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® sold under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate);
  • Daitopersion Zn-30 ® and Daitopersion Zn-50 ® by Daito those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-30 ® and Daitopersion Zn-50 ® by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated cyclopolymethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);
  • Nanox Gel TN ® those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN ® by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at a concentration of 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
  • the uncoated cerium oxide pigments can, for example, be those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide ® by Rhone-Poulenc.
  • the uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Amaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002 ® (FE 45B ® ), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ ® and Nanogard WCD 2006 ® (FE 45R ® ) or by Mitsubishi under the name TY-220 ® .
  • the coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN) ® , Nanogard WCD 2009 ® (FE 45B 556 ® ), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345 ® and Nanogard FE 45 BL ® or by BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide ® .
  • titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide including the mixture in equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by Ikeda under the name Sunveil A ® , and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261 ® sold by Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211 ® sold by Sachtleben Pigments.
  • coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
  • the mineral UV- screening agents are advantageously present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.
  • superabsorbent polymer is intended to mean a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and especially distilled water.
  • superabsorbent polymers are described in the work "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. Brannon- Pappas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.
  • the superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 100 000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water.
  • the value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 pm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
  • the superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles.
  • the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated form, a mean size of less than or equal to 100 pm and preferably less than or equal to 50 pm, for example ranging from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 5 to 50 pm and better still from 7 to 30 pm.
  • the mean size of the particles corresponds to the weight-average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell while forming soft particles having a mean size that can range from 10 pm to 1000 pm.
  • the superabsorbent polymers according to the invention are starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.
  • the acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate.
  • Such polymers have gelling properties and a feel close to that conferred by a silicone compound (“silicone-like” feel).
  • the used superabsorbent polymers comprise from 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they are constituted of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.
  • the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) is greater than 1000 daltons.
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in particulate form.
  • the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles.
  • the superabsorbent polymer(s) may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises perlite.
  • the perlite is in particular in the form of particles.
  • Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, of glossy black or light gray color, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava, and which is in the form of small particles resembling pearls.
  • the perlites which can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and advantageously have the composition:
  • silica SiCh 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiCh ,
  • the perlite particles used according to the invention are in porous expanded form.
  • the perlite is milled, dried and then calibrated in a first step.
  • the product obtained known as perlite ore, is gray-colored and has a size of about 100 pm.
  • the perlite ore is then expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles.
  • the expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention may be obtained via the expansion process described in patent US 5 002698.
  • the perlite particles used are milled; in this case, they are known as
  • EMP Expanded Milled Perlite
  • They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm, and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm.
  • the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are less than 20 pm in size. In addition, they preferentially have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles are less than 55 pm in size, and preferably less than 40 pm in size. It is moreover preferred for 90% by weight of the particles to be greater than 5 pm in size.
  • the perlite particles used in the context of the invention have a loose bulk density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m 3 (standard DIN 53468), and preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m 3 .
  • the weight content of perlite in the composition in accordance with the invention is advantageously from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the perlite and the superabsorbent polymer (amount by weight of perlite/amount by weight of superabsorbent polymer) is between 0.5 and 7, and preferably between 1 and 5.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol(s) are linear, and saturated or unsaturated, and comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols are solid.
  • the fatty alcohol(s) that are suitable for the invention can be chosen from the group comprising cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and myricyl alcohol; they are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
  • cetyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 16/98 P/MB and Ecorol® 16/98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 16 by BASF, Vegarol® 1698 by VVF, Alkonat® 1698 P by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 by Kao and Thaiol 1698 by Thai Fatty Alcohols.
  • stearyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 18/98 P/MB and Ecorol® 18/98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 18 by BASF, Kalcol® 8098 by Kao, Nacol® 18-98 by Sasol and Vegarol® 1898 by VVF.
  • cetylstearyl alcohols that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 68/50 F and Ecorol® 68/50 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® O OR and Lanette® O OR/MB by BASF, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN by Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50/50 by Industria Quimica Del Centro, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 by Emery Oleochemicals, Kalcol® 6850 by Kao, Vegarol® 1618 (50:50) by VVF and Ginol® 1618 50:50 OR by Godrej Industries.
  • behenyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the name Lanette 22 by BASF, Vegarol® 2270 by VVF and Nafol® 18-22 by Sasol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a content of fatty alcohols ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention also comprises at least one C1-C4 alcohol.
  • the C1-C4 lower alcohol(s) used in the context of the invention can be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol.
  • the alcohol used is ethanol.
  • the content of C1-C4 alcohols, when they are present, is between 2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 3% and 7% by weight, better still between 4% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one organic filler.
  • organic filler is understood to mean any organic solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • organic is understood to mean any compound or polymer, the chemical structure of which comprises at least one or more carbon atoms.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises an N-acylamino acid powder.
  • the N-acylamino acid(s) can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • the N-acylamino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder.
  • the N-acylamino acid powder may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the N-acylamino acid powder and the perlite is advantageously between 1 and 5, preferably between 1 and 3.
  • the weight ratio between the N-acylamino acid powder and the superabsorbent polymer (amount by weight of N-acylamino acid powder/amount by weight of superabsorbent polymer) can be between 0.5 and 20; it is preferably between 1 and 15.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS ® ).
  • AMPS ® acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer comprising at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (AMPS ® ), in free form or in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.
  • a mineral base sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia
  • organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.
  • AMPS ® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.
  • crosslinked polymer is intended to mean a nonlinear polymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.
  • the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefmically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
  • crosslinking agents
  • the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
  • TMPTA trimethylolpropane triacrylate
  • the degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
  • the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomers preferably correspond to the general formula below:
  • X + denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations
  • Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical such as methyl, and Ri preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are partially or completely salified in the form of the ammonium salt.
  • the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are completely salified, preferably in the form of the ammonium salt.
  • AMPS ® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:
  • the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
  • the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprise at least one fatty chain.
  • fatty chain is understood to mean any hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a weight concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.
  • the "homopolymers” according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
  • the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert- butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
  • the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;
  • a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10°C to 150°C; the polymer precipitates from the tert-butanol- based solution or dispersion.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
  • the water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.
  • ionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:
  • - Ri is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 ;
  • - Xi is chosen from:
  • R 2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO 3 ) and/or sulfate (SO 4 ) and/or phosphate (-PO 4 H 2 ) group.
  • nonionic water-soluble comonomers mention may be made in particular of:
  • N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
  • R 3 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 or -C 3 H 7 ;
  • - X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR 4 where R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
  • R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
  • Mention may be made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol
  • hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain
  • R- 4 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;
  • X 3 is chosen from: - alkyl oxides of the type -OR5 where R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • Mention may be made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2- ethylhexyl acrylate.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® homopolymers suitable for the invention for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ® by Clariant.
  • CFA name Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
  • ICI name Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
  • AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • the water-soluble water-dispersible AMPS copolymer comprises at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups
  • the hydrophobic group is a branched or unbranched, and saturated or unsaturated fatty hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 and 50 carbon atoms.
  • the copolymer(s) may be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.
  • the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, and even more preferentially they are crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
  • the AMPS® copolymer(s) comprise at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one fatty hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula below:
  • Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl
  • Y denotes O or NH
  • R2 denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms
  • x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.
  • Y denotes an oxygen atom
  • the Ri group represents a methyl
  • x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
  • x is preferably equal to 4.
  • R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Y denotes an oxygen atom
  • the group Ri represents a methyl
  • the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms
  • x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
  • the hydrophobic monomer of formula 6 is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula 6 wherein the Y group denotes O, the R2 group represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.
  • the monomer with a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
  • the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 6 wherein x is equal to 0, with Y representing an oxygen atom, the Ri group representing a methyl, and the R2 group representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.
  • the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 6 wherein x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group Ri representing a methyl, and the group R2 representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and at least one monomer of formula 6 wherein Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group Ri represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
  • the AMPS® copolymer comprises, as monomers bearing a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
  • the AMPS® copolymer(s) also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, preferably corresponding to the following general formula:
  • Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • Ri preferably denotes a hydrogen atom
  • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • R3 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • R2 and R3 preferably denote a methyl.
  • the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and the esters ((meth)acrylates) thereof, such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidones, N- (Ci-C4)alkylacrylamides, and N,N-di(Ci-C4)alkylacrylamides such as N,N- dimethylacrylamide.
  • the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
  • the AMPS® copolymer is chosen from the copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, preferably completely salified, of N,N- dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, preferably crosslinked, for instance the copolymer sold under the name Sepimax Zen by SEPPIC, and of INCI name Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.
  • the AMPS® polymer(s) described above may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not comprise any additional hydrophilic polymers.
  • the concentration of superabsorbent polymer is advantageously between 1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one additional hydrophilic polymer chosen from the AMPS homopolymers and copolymers as described above.
  • the composition comprises the combination of an AMPS homopolymer and an AMPS copolymer.
  • the concentration of superabsorbent polymer is advantageously between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the concentration of additional hydrophilic polymer(s) is advantageously between 0.1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the weight ratio between the superabsorbent polymer and the additional hydrophilic polymer(s) is between 0.2 and 1.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one oily phase.
  • oil phase means a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.
  • oil is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the oily phase may comprise, in addition to the lipophilic screening agent(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) according to the invention, at least one volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based oil and/or one volatile and/or nonvolatile silicone oil and/or one volatile and/or nonvolatile fluoro oil.
  • silicon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-0 group.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil is understood to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen.
  • these oils may in particular contain one or more carboxyl, ester, ether, hydroxyl functions.
  • fluoro oil refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • volatile oil is intended to mean an oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • nonvolatile oil is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapor pressure of less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil Jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those
  • synthetic esters such as the oils of formula RCOOR' wherein R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2- ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl
  • fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyl octanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
  • higher C 12 -C 22 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid
  • carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; and mixtures thereof.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol.
  • the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.
  • Cx-Cir > alkanes such as Cx-Cir > isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecan
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell, can also be used.
  • the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonvolatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from nonvolatile poly dimethyl siloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which groups are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain and each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • PDMSs nonvolatile poly dimethyl siloxanes
  • phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones
  • Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8x 10 6 m 2 /s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
  • Use may also be made of volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.
  • An oily phase according to the invention can additionally comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.
  • Another fatty substance which can be present in the oily phase can, for example, be:
  • waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, rice bran wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;
  • a pasty compound such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives;
  • the overall oily phase including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water- miscible organic solvents.
  • An aqueous phase which is suitable for the invention can comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
  • a natural spring water such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
  • the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for the invention comprise, in addition to the short-chain alcohols, as defined above, diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3 -butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, di ethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises an amount of glycerol of less than 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the overall aqueous phase including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can be provided in particular in the form of a simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) emulsion, such as a cream, a milk or a gel -cream.
  • a simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) emulsion such as a cream, a milk or a gel -cream.
  • the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions are of the paddle or propeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.
  • the emulsions generally may contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
  • W/O emulsifying surfactants of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; or silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols, for example the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C ® by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl methicone copolyol, sold under the name Dow Coming 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Coming, or cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R ® by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 ® by Goldschmidt. It is
  • non-silicone emulsifying surfactants in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.
  • polyol alkyl esters of polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxy stearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 ® by ICI.
  • glycerol and/or sorbitan esters for example, of polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 ® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 ® by ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 ® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 ® by Goldschmidt
  • sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 ® by ICI
  • sorbitan glyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 ® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • O/W emulsions for example, as nonionic emulsifying surfactants, of polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol such as the esters of polyethylene glycol and of stearic acid having the INCI name PEG- 100 stearate, sold under the name Myrj SIOO-PA-(SG) by Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxy
  • the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in document WO-A-92/06778.
  • the aqueous phase of the latter can comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
  • compositions according to the invention have applications in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for protecting and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or hair and/or for making up the skin and/or lips.
  • compositions according to the invention as defined above in the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular of care products, sun protection products and make-up products.
  • composition ingredients are given as % by weight of starting materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products.
  • compositions are evaluated macroscopically (Appearance, Color, Odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 month and 2 months at 45°C.
  • Example - Compositions 1 to 5 [00239] The following compositions are prepared. [Table 1]
  • the phase is kept at a temperature of 50°C.
  • phase B UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s)
  • Phase B is introduced into phase A. An emulsion is thus obtained at high shear.
  • Phase C q.s. water
  • Phase D fillers
  • Phase E is introduced into phase A+B+C with stirring.
  • Phase E is added at the end of production.
  • compositions according to the invention which comprise UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized with regards, firstly, to the consistency, in particular an uptake in the hand and a suppleness suitable for formulation in a jar, and secondly to the sensoriality, in particular they are not greasy and not tacky, while at the same time being light and soft and having a fondant nature.
  • composition 1 the sensoriality of the comparative compositions not comprising perlite (composition 1) or not comprising superabsorbent polymer (composition 2) is not satisfactory, both with regard to the greasiness and the tackiness and with regard to the lightness, the softness and the fondant nature, and the comparative composition not comprising fatty alcohols (composition 3) has a consistency (uptake in the hand, suppleness) which does not facilitate formulation in ajar.
  • the phase is kept at a temperature of 75°C.
  • phase B lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s), oil(s), hydrophobic active agent(s) and hydrophobic preserving agent(s)
  • Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65°C under a rotor/stator.
  • Phase C (q.s. water) is added at 60°C.
  • the hydrophilic screening agent is added at 40°C.
  • phase E at 40°C phase E at 40°C
  • phase F at 40°C phase F at 40°C
  • phases G and H at 30°C-35°C.
  • compositions 6 to 9 according to the invention which comprise UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized with regards, firstly, to the consistency, in particular an uptake in the hand and a suppleness suitable for formulation in ajar, and secondly to the sensoriality, in particular they are not greasy and not tacky, while at the same time being light and soft and having a fondant nature.
  • composition stability results are as follows: [Table 5] [00264]
  • compositions 6 to 9 which comprise UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are stable. This stability is improved when the amount of superabsorbent polymer is increased or when the superabsorbent polymer is combined with an AMPS polymer.
  • Example 3 Compositions 10 to 12
  • the phase is kept at a temperature of 75°C.
  • phase B lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s), oil(s), hydrophobic active agent(s) and hydrophobic preserving agent(s)
  • Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65°C under a rotor/stator.
  • Phase C (q.s. water) is added at 60°C.
  • the hydrophilic screening agent is added at 40°C.
  • phase E at 40°C phase E at 40°C
  • phase F at 40°C phase F at 40°C
  • phases G and H at 30°C-35°C.
  • compositions 10 to 12 according to the invention which comprise UV- screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer optionally combined with an AMPS polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, exhibit a pleasant sensoriality suitable for daily use. Their consistency is suitable for formulation in ajar.
  • Example 4 Compositions 13 and 14
  • the phase is kept at a temperature of 75°C.
  • phase B lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactants, hydrophobic polymers, oils, hydrophobic active agents and hydrophobic preserving agents
  • Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65°C under a rotor/stator.
  • Phase C (q.s. water) is added at 60°C.
  • the hydrophilic screening agent is added 40°C.
  • phase E at 40°C phase E at 40°C
  • phase F at 40°C phase F at 40°C
  • phases G and H at 30°C-35°C.
  • compositions 13 and 14 according to the invention which comprise UV- screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer optionally combined with an AMPS polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, exhibit a pleasant sensoriality suitable for daily use. Their consistency is suitable for formulation in ajar.
  • Example - Compositions 15 to 18 [00290] The following compositions are prepared. [Table 9]
  • the phase is kept at a temperature of 50°C.
  • phase B UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s)
  • Phase B is introduced into phase A. An emulsion is thus obtained at high shear.
  • Phase C q.s. water
  • Phase D fillers
  • Phase E is introduced into phase A+B+C with stirring.
  • Phase E is added at the end of production.
  • composition 18 which comprises UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized with regards, firstly, to the consistency, in particular an uptake in the hand and a suppleness suitable for formulation in a jar, and secondly to the sensoriality, in particular they are not greasy and not tacky, while at the same time being light and soft and having a fondant nature.
  • composition 17 the sensoriality of the comparative composition comprising silica instead of perlite
  • compositions 15 and 16 are instable, which render impossible the evaluation of their consistency and their sensoriality.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: at least one organic UV-screening agent; at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; perlite; and at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol. The present invention makes it possible to obtain a composition having a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a high anti-UV protective power, while at the same time being stable and advantageously transparent on the skin.

Description

Description
Title: Composition comprising an organic UV-screening agent, a superabsorbant polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, especially an aqueous composition, comprising at least one organic UV-screening agent, at least one particular superabsorbent polymer, perlite and at least one fatty alcohol.
[0002] A wide variety of photoprotective compositions are already known to date for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They mostly contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV- screening agents, conveyed in an oily phase and/or in an aqueous phase as anti-UV active agent and are generally proposed in a presentation form of emulsion or gel type.
[0003] It is also known that high contents of screening agents are required to achieve high levels of screening efficiency.
[0004] However, high contents of UV-screening agents do not lend themselves to easy production of compositions having a stabilized and pleasant texture.
[0005] Thus, formulations with high screening power generally have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulations. In particular, the weak point of photoprotective formulations with a high protection factor is often a strong greasy and tacky feel, and thus a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application, thus not being invisible on the skin.
[0006] Moreover, the introduction of a high content of UV-screening agents generally brings about destabilization problems. This instability may even occasionally cause phase separation of the emulsion and/or a loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation inefficient or even unusable.
[0007] To overcome the abovementioned undesirable effects, and in particular to obtain a fresh effect on application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous presentation forms have already been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV-screening agents are generally tacky and thus uncomfortable, but also very fluid. [0008] It has also been proposed to structure an aqueous gel containing screening agents using polymers. However, this solution is not satisfactory since the structuring polymers generally selected not always very resistant to electrolytes and can also degrade the sensory properties of the compositions in terms of tack.
[0009] In order to overcome the abovementioned undesirable effects, consideration has already been given to the use of aqueous compositions containing UV-screening agents in combination with other specific compounds.
[0010] Thus, the joint use of mineral thickeners of clay type has been proposed for stabilizing the compositions and optionally reducing the tacky nature of photoprotective compositions. However, clays have the drawback of whitening the compositions, which then lose their transparency properties.
[0011] Consequently, it remains difficult to reconcile, in one and the same photoprotective composition, opposing technical performance qualities, such as a high level of UV protection, which usually implies a greasy and tacky finish on the skin, and a pleasant sensory aspect, brought about in particular by a fresh sensation.
[0012] There is still a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which is advantageously transparent on the skin.
[0013] In particular, there is still a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, which has pleasant sensory properties and which is advantageously refreshing, and preferably transparent on the skin.
[0014] This need for such a photoprotective composition is all the greater since the daily photoprotection market is growing rapidly. Increasing numbers of hybrid products providing skincare and SPF 15-20 protection are being launched, but the challenge remains of having higher SPF values, for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to 50, with a pleasant sensoriality for daily application. The skincare world remains very different from the photoprotection field in terms of consumer experience with products sold in jars, thereby increasing the complexity of the formula development.
[0015] It is therefore sought to have a product with a high SPF while at the same time keeping the sensory codes of skincare: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory aspect.
[0016] In other words, the objective of the invention is to develop a product with an advantageous sensory aspect, in particular with a fondant sensory aspect and a non-greasy and non-tacky finish, allowing high daily photoprotection and which can be sold in packaging conventionally used in the skincare field, in particular a formulation in jars.
[0017] There is also a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, which is perfectly stable, i.e. not subject to demixing.
[0018] The introduction, into a composition comprising UV-screening agents, of a superabsorbent polymer in order to reduce the tack has already been disclosed in EP 2266 531 Bl. However, the sensory aspect of the compositions thus obtained is not satisfactory for daily use.
[0019] The present invention is specifically directed towards meeting these needs.
[0020] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
- at least one organic UV-screening agent;
- at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer;
- perlite; and
- at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
[0021] Against all expectations, the inventors have noted that the use, in a photoprotective composition, of the combination of a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, of perlite and of a fatty alcohol makes it possible to obtain a galenical formulation with a high anti-UV protective power, which is nevertheless stabilized over time, and which has a strong refreshing power and is preferably transparent on the skin.
[0022] Advantageously, the use of the combination of a superabsorbent polymer, chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, with perlite and at least one fatty alcohol makes it possible to obtain an aqueous galenical formulation which is stabilized and which has a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a high anti-UV protective power.
[0023] Thus, the combination of a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, of perlite and of a fatty alcohol, in an aqueous photoprotective composition, advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which are generally antagonistic to one another. [0024] A subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is also the use of a composition as defined above, for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and/or facial skin.
[0025] Another subject of the present invention, according to yet another of its aspects, is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the bodily and/or facial skin, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.
[0026] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
[0027] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
[0028] For the purposes of the present invention:
- The term "stable composition” is intended to mean a composition which, after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, retains its pleasantness and its sensory signature on application. More specifically, for the purposes of the present invention, the term “ stable composition” is intended to mean an acceptable change in viscosity, that is to say that the difference between the initial viscosity and the viscosity after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, remains less than 10%, preferably less than 5%. For the purposes of the invention, a “ stable composition ” exhibits moreover a difference between the initial pH and the pH after storage for at least one month, preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, of less than 0.3 and does not exhibit any phase separation phenomenon after storage for at least one month, preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C. Finally, for the purposes of the present invention a “ stable composition” does not exhibit crystals after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C.
- The term “transparent composition ” is intended to mean a composition which, when it is applied to the skin, for example at a thickness of 5 mm, is transparent, that is to say that it allows the skin to be seen. This transparency can be assessed visually, with the naked eye. - For the purposes of the invention, the term "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) is intended to mean: the sun protection factor which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The value of the SPF corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time necessary to obtain sunburn with an anti-sun composition and the minimum time without product. More specifically, the term "SPF” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).
Evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro with a Lab sphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material to which the anti-sun composition is applied. For this protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates proved to be ideal.
Evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be performed in vivo according to the protocol ISO/EN 24444 “Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In- vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2010)”.
- The term “ PPD ” (Persistent Pigment Darkening) is intended to mean: the index characterizing the protection with respect to UVA radiation. In particular, the “PPD” measures the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA radiation. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test procedure for the UVA labeling of products and is frequently used by test laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective as of January 1, 1996).
[0029] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description which will follow.
[0030] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is understood here to mean a medium which is compatible with keratin materials.
[0031] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, scalp, keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair and body hair, nails, mucous membranes, such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
[0032] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “of between” and “ranging from ... to ...”. [0033] Moreover, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are equivalent respectively to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to”.
[0034] According to the invention, the term “preventing” or “prevention” is intended to mean reducing the risk or occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.
[0035] The term “organic UVA-screening agent” is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA rays in the wavelength range of between 320 and 400 nm; it being possible for said molecules to likewise also absorb UVB rays in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.
[0036] The term “organic UVB-screening agent” is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.
UV-screening agents
Organic UV-screening agents
[0037] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV-screening agents. Said organic UV-screening agents can be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV- screening agents, lipophilic organic UV-screening agents and insoluble organic UV-screening agents.
[0038] The term “hydrophilic UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0039] The term “lipophilic screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
[0040] The term “insoluble UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, determined at 70°C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.
[0041] The organic UV-screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, such as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2463 264; p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, such as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described in particular in application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from a-alkyl styrene, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4- diarylbutadiene compounds, such as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Mention may be made, as examples of organic photoprotective agents, of those denoted below under their INCI names.
[0043] Cinnamic compounds:
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products,
Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,
Isoamyl p-m ethoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise, DEA Methoxycinnamate,
Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxy cinnamate.
[0044] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789® by DSM Nutritional Products,
Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.
[0045] para-Aminobenzoic compounds:
PABA,
Ethyl PABA,
Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, sold in particular under the name Escalol 507® by ISP,
Glyceryl PABA,
PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name Uvinul P 25® by BASF.
[0046] Salicylic compounds:
Homosalate, sold under the name Eusolex HMS® by Rona/EM Industries,
Ethylhexyl salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise,
Dipropylene glycol salicylate, sold under the name Dipsal® by Scher,
TEA salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise.
[0047] b.b-Diphenylacrylate compounds:
Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 539® by BASF,
Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 35® by BASF.
[0048] Benzophenone compounds:
Benzophenone-1, sold under the trade name Uvinul 400® by BASF,
Benzophenone-2, sold under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF,
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M 40® by BASF, Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade name Uvinul MS 40® by BASF,
Benzophenone-5,
Benzophenone-6, sold under the trade name Helisorb 11® by Norquay,
Benzophenone-8, sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24® by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-9, sold under the trade name Uvinul DS 49® by BASF,
Benzophenone- 12, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, sold under the trade name Uvinul A Plus® or, as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul A Plus B® by BASF,
1 , l'-( 1 ,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[ 1 -[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007/071 584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (mean size of 0.02 to 2 pm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A- 2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
[0049] Benzylidenecamphor compounds:
3-Benzylidenecamphor, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD® by Chimex,
4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, sold under the name Eusolex 6300® by Merck,
Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL® by Chimex,
Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex,
Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX® by Chimex,
Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW® by Chimex.
[0050] Phenylbenzimidazole compounds:
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
[0051] Bisbenzoazolyl compounds:
Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP® by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0052] Phenylbenzotri azole compounds:
Drometrizole Trisiloxane, sold under the name Silatrizole® by Rhodia Chimie.
[0053] Methylenebis(hvdroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds: Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB/100® by Fairmount Chemical, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+iO(C6Hio05)xH, wherein n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the (C6H10O5) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2303 549, sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M® by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm, in the presence of at least one polyglyceryl mono(C8-C2o)alkyl ester with a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009/063 392.
[0054] Triazine compounds:
- 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis- Diphenyltriazine, and with the following chemical structure:
[Chem 1]
Figure imgf000011_0001
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, sold under the trade name Tinosorb S® by BASF, - Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T 150® by BASF,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB® by Sigma 3 V,
- 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
- 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
- 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, - symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US 6 225 467, application W02004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives", IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, which is also mentioned in patent applications W006/035000, WO06/034982, W006/034991, W006/035007, W02006/034992 and W02006/034985, these compounds advantageously being used in micronized form (mean particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm), which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,
- silicone triazines substituted by two aminobenzoate groups, such as described in patent EP 0 841 341, in particular 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1,3,3, 3-tetramethyl-l- [(trimethylsilyloxy)]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.
[0055] Anthranilic compounds:
Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA® by Symrise.
[0056] Imidazoline compounds:
Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.
[0057] Benzalmalonate compounds:
Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.
[0058] 4.4-Di aryl butadiene compounds:
1 , 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0059] Benzoxazole compounds:
2,4-Bis[4-[5-(l,l-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl]phenylimino]-6-[(2-ethylhexyl)imino]- 1,3, 5 -triazine, sold under the name Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3 V.
[0060] The preferential organic screening agents are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Homosalate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
Benzophenone-3 ,
Benzophenone-4,
Benzophenone-5, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate,
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
Ethylhexyl Triazone,
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
2.4.6-Tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
2.4.6-Tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
2.4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,
2.4-Bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,
2.4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1,3,3, 3-tetramethyl-l-
[(trimethylsilyloxy)]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,
2.4.6-T ri s(diphenyl)triazine,
2,4, 6-T ri s(terphenyl)triazine,
Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
Polysilicone-15,
1 , 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene;
2.4-Bis[4-[5-(l,l-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl]phenylimino]-6-[(2-ethylhexyl)imino]- 1,3, 5 -triazine, and mixtures thereof. [0061] The particularly preferred organic screening agents are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Homosalate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Octocrylene, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
Ethylhexyl Triazone,
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
2,4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1,3,3, 3-tetramethyl-l-
[(trimethylsilyloxy)]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,
Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] According to a first particular embodiment, the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
Octocrylene Ethylhexyl Triazone, and mixtures thereof.
[0063] According to a second particular embodiment, the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
Ethylhexyl Triazone, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] According to one preferred embodiment, the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
Ethylhexyl Triazone, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of octocrylene. The term “free of octocrylene” is intended to mean a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene.
[0066] The organic UV-screening agents can be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional UV-screening agents
[0067] The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV-screening agent.
[0068] The inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 pm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm. [0069] They can be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.
[0070] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments , are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
[0071] The metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.
[0072] The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0073] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated:
- with silica, such as the products Sunveil® from Ikeda, Sunsil Tin 50 from Sunjin Beauty Science,
- with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from Ikeda,
- with silica and alumina, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA® and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from Tayca and Tioveil from Tioxide,
- with alumina, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (B)® and Tipaque TTO-55 (A)® from Ishihara and UVT 14/4 from Sachtleben Pigments,
- with alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W® and Solaveil CT 100® from Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck,
- with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 AQ® from Tayca, - with alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S® from Tayca,
[0074] - with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F® from Tayca,
- with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product BR 351® from Tayca, - with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS®, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS® from Tayca,
- with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product STT-30-DS® from Titan Kogyo,
- with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product UV-Titan X 195® from Sachtleben Pigments,
- with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (S)® from Ishihara or UV Titan M 262® from Sachtleben Pigments,
- with triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S from Titan Kogyo,
- with stearic acid, such as the product Tipaque TTO-55 (C)® from Ishihara,
- with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W® from Tayca,
- T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, sold under the trade name T 805® by Degussa Silices,
- T1O2 treated with a poly dimethyl siloxane, sold under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF Ti02SI3® by Cardre,
- anatase/rutile T1O2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane, sold under the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic® by Color Techniques,
- T1O2 coated with triethylhexanoin, with aluminum stearate and with alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) by Croda,
- T1O2 coated with aluminum stearate, with alumina and with silicone sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD) by Croda,
- T1O2 coated with lauroyl lysine sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxyde CR 50,
- T1O2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and with aluminum hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 Ti02 CR-50.
[0075] Mention may also be made of T1O2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles can additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents, such as, for example, a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid ester, such as Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid esters. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiCk particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, such as the product sold under the trade name Optisol TD50® by Croda.
[0076] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B®, by Degussa under the name P 25, by Wackher under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW®, by Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR®, by Tomen under the name ITS® and by Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
[0077] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- those sold under the name Z-Cote by Sunsmart;
- those sold under the name Nanox® by Elementis;
- those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025® by Nanophase Technologies.
[0078] The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- those sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5® by Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);
- those sold under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate);
- those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-30® and Daitopersion Zn-50® by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated cyclopolymethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);
- those sold under the name NFD Ultrafme ZnO® by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl in dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); - those sold under the name SPD-Z1® by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
- those sold under the name Escalol Z100® by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene copolymer/methicone mixture);
- those sold under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10® by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);
- those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN® by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at a concentration of 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
[0079] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments can, for example, be those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide® by Rhone-Poulenc.
[0080] The uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Amaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002® (FE 45B®), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ® and Nanogard WCD 2006® (FE 45R®) or by Mitsubishi under the name TY-220®.
[0081] The coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®, Nanogard WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345® and Nanogard FE 45 BL® or by BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide®.
[0082] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the mixture in equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by Ikeda under the name Sunveil A®, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261® sold by Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211® sold by Sachtleben Pigments.
[0083] According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
When they are present in the composition in accordance with the invention, the mineral UV- screening agents are advantageously present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Superabsorbent polymers
[0084] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.
[0085] The term "superabsorbent polymer" is intended to mean a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the work "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. Brannon- Pappas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.
[0086] These polymers have a large capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus engorged with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus conserve their individualized particulate state.
[0087] The superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 100 000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water. The value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 pm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
[0088] Advantageously, the superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated form, a mean size of less than or equal to 100 pm and preferably less than or equal to 50 pm, for example ranging from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 5 to 50 pm and better still from 7 to 30 pm.
[0089] The mean size of the particles corresponds to the weight-average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell while forming soft particles having a mean size that can range from 10 pm to 1000 pm.
[0090] The superabsorbent polymers according to the invention are starches grafted with an acrylic polymer. The acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate. Such polymers have gelling properties and a feel close to that conferred by a silicone compound (“silicone-like” feel).
[0091] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the used superabsorbent polymers comprise from 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they are constituted of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.
[0092] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) is greater than 1000 daltons.
[0093] Mention may particularly be made of starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 or Makimousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch).
[0094] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.
[0095] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in particulate form.
[0096] Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles.
[0097] The superabsorbent polymer(s) may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Perlite
[0098] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises perlite.
[0099] The perlite is in particular in the form of particles.
[00100] Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, of glossy black or light gray color, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava, and which is in the form of small particles resembling pearls. [00101] The perlites which can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and advantageously have the composition:
70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiCh,
12.0-15.0% by weight of aluminum oxide AI2O3, 3.0-5.0% of sodium oxide Na20,
3.0-5.0% of potassium oxide K2O,
0.5-2% of iron oxide Fe203,
0.2-0.7% of magnesium oxide MgO,
0.5-1.5% of calcium oxide CaO, and 0.05-0.15% of titanium oxide TiCh.
[00102] Preferentially, the perlite particles used according to the invention are in porous expanded form.
[00103] The perlite is milled, dried and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained, known as perlite ore, is gray-colored and has a size of about 100 pm. The perlite ore is then expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material evaporates and brings about the expansion of the material, relative to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention may be obtained via the expansion process described in patent US 5 002698. [00104] Preferably, the perlite particles used are milled; in this case, they are known as
Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP).
[00105] They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm, and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm.
[00106] Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are less than 20 pm in size. In addition, they preferentially have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles are less than 55 pm in size, and preferably less than 40 pm in size. It is moreover preferred for 90% by weight of the particles to be greater than 5 pm in size. [00107] According to one particular embodiment, the perlite particles used in the context of the invention have a loose bulk density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m3 (standard DIN 53468), and preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m3.
[00108] The expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names Optimat 1430 OR® and Optimat 2550® by World Minerals, or the commercial products GK-110 Thin® and GK- 110 Extra Thin® by Langfang Xindazhong Filter and the company Henan Zhongnan Filter Aid, will in particular be used.
[00109] The weight content of perlite in the composition in accordance with the invention is advantageously from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[00110] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the perlite and the superabsorbent polymer (amount by weight of perlite/amount by weight of superabsorbent polymer) is between 0.5 and 7, and preferably between 1 and 5.
Fatty alcohols
[00111] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
[00112] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty alcohol(s) are linear, and saturated or unsaturated, and comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[00113] Preferably, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty alcohols are solid.
[00114] The fatty alcohol(s) that are suitable for the invention can be chosen from the group comprising cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and myricyl alcohol; they are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
[00115] As cetyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 16/98 P/MB and Ecorol® 16/98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 16 by BASF, Vegarol® 1698 by VVF, Alkonat® 1698 P by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 by Kao and Thaiol 1698 by Thai Fatty Alcohols. [00116] As stearyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 18/98 P/MB and Ecorol® 18/98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 18 by BASF, Kalcol® 8098 by Kao, Nacol® 18-98 by Sasol and Vegarol® 1898 by VVF.
[00117] As cetylstearyl alcohols that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the names Ecorol® 68/50 F and Ecorol® 68/50 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® O OR and Lanette® O OR/MB by BASF, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN by Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50/50 by Industria Quimica Del Centro, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 by Emery Oleochemicals, Kalcol® 6850 by Kao, Vegarol® 1618 (50:50) by VVF and Ginol® 1618 50:50 OR by Godrej Industries.
[00118] As behenyl alcohol that is most particularly suitable for the invention, use may for example be made of those sold under the name Lanette 22 by BASF, Vegarol® 2270 by VVF and Nafol® 18-22 by Sasol.
[00119] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of fatty alcohols ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
Lower alcohols
[00120] According to one particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention also comprises at least one C1-C4 alcohol.
[00121] The C1-C4 lower alcohol(s) used in the context of the invention can be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol. Preferably, the alcohol used is ethanol.
[00122] The content of C1-C4 alcohols, when they are present, is between 2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 3% and 7% by weight, better still between 4% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fillers
[00123] The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one organic filler.
[00124] In the present application, the term “organic filler” is understood to mean any organic solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C). [00125] The term “organic” is understood to mean any compound or polymer, the chemical structure of which comprises at least one or more carbon atoms.
[00126] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an N-acylamino acid powder.
[00127] The N-acylamino acid(s) can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[00128] Advantageously, the N-acylamino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder.
[00129] The N-acylamino acid powder may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[00130] The weight ratio between the N-acylamino acid powder and the perlite (amount by weight of N-acylamino acid powder/amount by weight of perlite) is advantageously between 1 and 5, preferably between 1 and 3.
[00131] The weight ratio between the N-acylamino acid powder and the superabsorbent polymer (amount by weight of N-acylamino acid powder/amount by weight of superabsorbent polymer) can be between 0.5 and 20; it is preferably between 1 and 15.
[00132] AMPS hydrophilic polymers
[00133] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®).
[00134] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer comprising at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®), in free form or in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.
[00135] They are preferably completely or virtually completely neutralized, that is to say at least 90% neutralized. [00136] These AMPS® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non- crosslinked.
[00137] The term "crosslinked polymer" is intended to mean a nonlinear polymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.
[00138] When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefmically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
[00139] Mention may be made, for example, as crosslinking agents, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, tri ethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, diallyl urea, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
[00140] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
[00141] According to the invention, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomers preferably correspond to the general formula below:
[Chem 2]
Figure imgf000026_0001
wherein X+ denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical such as methyl, and Ri preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
[00142] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are partially or completely salified in the form of the ammonium salt.
[00143] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are completely salified, preferably in the form of the ammonium salt.
[00144] The AMPS® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:
- either "homopolymers" comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above; or copolymers obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers include hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers may or may not comprise fatty chains.
[00145] According to a first particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
[00146] According to a second particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprise at least one fatty chain.
[00147] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" is understood to mean any hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms.
[00148] The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a weight concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.
[00149] The "homopolymers" according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
(a) the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert- butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
(b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;
(c) the crosslinking monomer(s) are added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b);
(d) a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10°C to 150°C; the polymer precipitates from the tert-butanol- based solution or dispersion.
[00150] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
[00151] The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.
[00152] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:
- (meth)acrylic acid,
- styrenesulfonic acid,
- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,
- vinylphosphonic acid,
- maleic acid,
- itaconic acid,
- crotonic acid,
- water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula below: [Chem 3]
Figure imgf000029_0001
wherein:
- Ri is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7; - Xi is chosen from:
- alkyl oxides of type -OR2 where R2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO3 ) and/or sulfate (SO4) and/or phosphate (-PO4H2) group.
[00153] Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, mention may be made in particular of:
- (meth)acrylamide,
- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,
- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,
- maleic anhydride, - vinylamine,
- N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
- vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,
- water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula below: [Chem 4]
Figure imgf000029_0002
wherein:
- R3 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7; - X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR4 where R4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether. [00154] Mention may be made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.
[00155] Among the hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain, mention may be made, for example, of: styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butyl styrene, a-m ethyl styrene and vinyltoluene; vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3; vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR wherein R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; acrylonitrile; - caprolactone; vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride; silicone derivatives, which, after polymerization, result in silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides; hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula below: [Chem 5]
Figure imgf000030_0001
wherein:
R-4 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;
X3 is chosen from: - alkyl oxides of the type -OR5 where R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. [00156] Mention may be made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2- ethylhexyl acrylate.
[00157] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
[00158] Mention may be made, as water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® homopolymers suitable for the invention, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by Clariant.
[00159] As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonate polymers.
[00160] Mention may be made, as water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers in accordance with the invention, for example, of:
- crosslinked aery 1 ami de/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, such as that used in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin/ Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80) by SEPPIC;
- copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) but neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;
- copolymers of AMPS® and of sodium acrylate, for instance the AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by SEPPIC or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Aery late/ Sodium Aery 1 oy 1 dimethy ltaurate C opoly mer) ;
- copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS®/hydroxy ethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl aery late/ sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer).
[00161] As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.
[00162] Among the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups.
[00163] Preferably, when the water-soluble water-dispersible AMPS copolymer comprises at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, the hydrophobic group is a branched or unbranched, and saturated or unsaturated fatty hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 and 50 carbon atoms.
[00164] The copolymer(s) may be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.
[00165] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, and even more preferentially they are crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
[00166] The AMPS® copolymer(s) comprise at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one fatty hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. [00167] The monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula below:
[Chem 6]
Figure imgf000033_0001
wherein Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.
[00168] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 6, Y denotes an oxygen atom.
[00169] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 6, the Ri group represents a methyl.
[00170] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4. [00171] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 6, the group
R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[00172] According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula 6, Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group Ri represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
[00173] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic monomer of formula 6 is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula 6 wherein the Y group denotes O, the R2 group represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4. [00174] Preferably, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
[00175] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 6 wherein x is equal to 0, with Y representing an oxygen atom, the Ri group representing a methyl, and the R2 group representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[00176] In this embodiment, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate. [00177] According to one particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 6 wherein x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group Ri representing a methyl, and the group R2 representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and at least one monomer of formula 6 wherein Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group Ri represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
[00178] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer comprises, as monomers bearing a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
[00179] The AMPS® copolymer(s) also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, preferably corresponding to the following general formula:
[Chem 7]
Figure imgf000034_0001
wherein Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, Ri preferably denotes a hydrogen atom, R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical and R3 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical and R2 and R3 preferably denote a methyl.
[00180] The ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and the esters ((meth)acrylates) thereof, such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidones, N- (Ci-C4)alkylacrylamides, and N,N-di(Ci-C4)alkylacrylamides such as N,N- dimethylacrylamide. [00181] Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
[00182] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is chosen from the copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, preferably completely salified, of N,N- dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, preferably crosslinked, for instance the copolymer sold under the name Sepimax Zen by SEPPIC, and of INCI name Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.
[00183] The AMPS® polymer(s) described above may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[00184] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise any additional hydrophilic polymers.
[00185] In this embodiment, the concentration of superabsorbent polymer is advantageously between 1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [00186] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one additional hydrophilic polymer chosen from the AMPS homopolymers and copolymers as described above.
[00187] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises the combination of an AMPS homopolymer and an AMPS copolymer. [00188] In these embodiments, the concentration of superabsorbent polymer is advantageously between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the concentration of additional hydrophilic polymer(s) is advantageously between 0.1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio between the superabsorbent polymer and the additional hydrophilic polymer(s) (amount by weight of superabsorbent polymer/amount by weight of additional hydrophilic polymer(s)) is between 0.2 and 1.
Oily phase
[00189] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one oily phase. [00190] For the purposes of the invention, the term “oily phase” means a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.
[00191] The term “oil” is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[00192] The oily phase may comprise, in addition to the lipophilic screening agent(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) according to the invention, at least one volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based oil and/or one volatile and/or nonvolatile silicone oil and/or one volatile and/or nonvolatile fluoro oil.
[00193] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-0 group.
[00194] The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is understood to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may in particular contain one or more carboxyl, ester, ether, hydroxyl functions.
[00195] The term “fluoro oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[00196] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[00197] The term “nonvolatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapor pressure of less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[00198] Mention may in particular be made, as nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of:
(i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil Jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;
(ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof;
(iv) synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RCOOR' wherein R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2- ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by Stearinerie Dubois, isopropyl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Jolee 7739 by Oleon; alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12- Ci3 dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; acetates;
(v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyl octanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
(vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
(vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; and mixtures thereof.
[00199] Among the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.
[00200] As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and especially of branched Cx-Cir> alkanes, such as Cx-Cir> isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched Cx-Ci6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[00201] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068 371 and WO 2008/155 059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n- tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application W02008/155059 of Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof.
[00202] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
[00203] The nonvolatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from nonvolatile poly dimethyl siloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which groups are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain and each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates. [00204] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8x 106 m2/s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[00205] Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils having the formula below:
[Chem 8]
Figure imgf000039_0001
where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
[00206] Mention may be made, among the oils of formula 8, of:
3 -butyl -1,1, 1,3, 5, 5, 5 -heptamethy ltri sil oxane,
3 -propyl -1,1, 1,3, 5, 5, 5 -heptamethy ltri sil oxane, and
3 -ethyl -1,1, 1,3, 5, 5, 5 -heptamethy ltri sil oxane, corresponding to the oils of formula 8 for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
[00207] Use may also be made of volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.
[00208] An oily phase according to the invention can additionally comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil. [00209] Another fatty substance which can be present in the oily phase can, for example, be:
- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
- a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, rice bran wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;
- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);
- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives;
- and mixtures thereof.
[00210] Preferentially, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
[00211] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
[00212] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water- miscible organic solvents.
[00213] An aqueous phase which is suitable for the invention can comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
[00214] The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for the invention comprise, in addition to the short-chain alcohols, as defined above, diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3 -butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, di ethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. [00215] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an amount of glycerol of less than 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[00216] According to a specific form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Presentation forms
[00217] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can be provided in particular in the form of a simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) emulsion, such as a cream, a milk or a gel -cream.
[00218] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[00219] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes which can be used are of the paddle or propeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.
[00220] In order to obtain stable emulsions with a low content of polymer (oil/polymer ratio > 25), it is possible to prepare the dispersion in concentrated phase and then to dilute the dispersion with the remainder of the aqueous phase.
[00221] It is also possible, via HPH (between 50 and 800 bar), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes that can be as small as 100 nm.
[00222] The emulsions generally may contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
[00223] Mention may be made, as examples of W/O emulsifying surfactants, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; or silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols, for example the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C® by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl methicone copolyol, sold under the name Dow Coming 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Coming, or cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09® by Goldschmidt. It is also possible to add thereto one or more coemulsifiers which, advantageously, can be chosen from the group constituted of polyol alkyl esters.
[00224] Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.
[00225] Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxy stearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135® by ICI.
[00226] Mention may be made, as glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example, of polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
[00227] Mention may be made, for the O/W emulsions, for example, as nonionic emulsifying surfactants, of polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol such as the esters of polyethylene glycol and of stearic acid having the INCI name PEG- 100 stearate, sold under the name Myrj SIOO-PA-(SG) by Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68® by SEPPIC, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202® by SEPPIC. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in document WO-A-92/06778.
[00228] When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of the latter can comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
[00229] The compositions according to the invention have applications in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for protecting and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or hair and/or for making up the skin and/or lips.
[00230] Another subject of the present invention is constituted of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above in the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular of care products, sun protection products and make-up products.
Examples
[00231] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the composition ingredients are given as % by weight of starting materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[00232] Sensory evaluation
[00233] For each of the following compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.
[00234] The cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products. The sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are packaged in jars. Within one and the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panel member. 10 experts evaluate first the uptake in the hand and the suppleness in the jar. They then place a drop of product (0.05 ml) on the back of the hand and evaluate the tackiness after a few seconds of penetration, the lightness and the softness on application, the greasiness (amount of film forming agent on the fingers) and the fondant nature. [00235] The descriptors are evaluated on a scale graded from 1 to 5: 1 = not, 2 = barely, 3 = moderately, 4 = fairly, 5 = very.
[00236] Stability study
[00237] The stability of the compositions is evaluated macroscopically (Appearance, Color, Odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 month and 2 months at 45°C.
[00238] Example - Compositions 1 to 5 [00239] The following compositions are prepared. [Table 1]
Figure imgf000044_0001
Figure imgf000045_0001
[00240] Preparation method
[00241] The starting materials of phase A (15% of water, glycerol, hydrophilic surfactant(s), hydrophilic polymers) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the main container and homogenized. The phase is kept at a temperature of 50°C.
[00242] The starting materials of phase B (UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s)) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the auxiliary container and heated at 75°C until the phase is totally homogenized.
[00243] Phase B is introduced into phase A. An emulsion is thus obtained at high shear. [00244] Phase C (q.s. water) is added and the mixture is cooled to 30°C. [00245] Phase D (fillers) is introduced into phase A+B+C with stirring. [00246] Phase E (alcohol) is added at the end of production. [00247] Results obtained
[00248] The sensory analysis results are as follows: [Table 2]
Figure imgf000046_0001
[00249] In conclusion, the compositions according to the invention (compositions 4 and 5), which comprise UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized with regards, firstly, to the consistency, in particular an uptake in the hand and a suppleness suitable for formulation in a jar, and secondly to the sensoriality, in particular they are not greasy and not tacky, while at the same time being light and soft and having a fondant nature.
[00250] Conversely, the sensoriality of the comparative compositions not comprising perlite (composition 1) or not comprising superabsorbent polymer (composition 2) is not satisfactory, both with regard to the greasiness and the tackiness and with regard to the lightness, the softness and the fondant nature, and the comparative composition not comprising fatty alcohols (composition 3) has a consistency (uptake in the hand, suppleness) which does not facilitate formulation in ajar. [00251] Example 2 - Compositions 6 to 9
[00252] The following compositions are prepared. [Table 3]
Figure imgf000047_0001
Figure imgf000048_0001
[00253] Preparation method
[00254] The starting materials of phase A (10% of water, 17% of glycerol, hydrophilic active agent(s), hydrophilic preserving agent(s)) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the main container and homogenized. The phase is kept at a temperature of 75°C.
[00255] The starting materials of phase B (lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s), oil(s), hydrophobic active agent(s) and hydrophobic preserving agent(s))) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the auxiliary container and heated at 75°C until the phase is totally homogenized.
[00256] Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65°C under a rotor/stator.
[00257] Phase C (q.s. water) is added at 60°C.
[00258] The hydrophilic screening agent is added at 40°C.
[00259] The following are then successively added: phase E at 40°C, phase F at 40°C, then phases G and H at 30°C-35°C.
[00260] Results obtained
[00261] The sensory analysis results are as follows:
[Table 4]
Figure imgf000048_0002
Figure imgf000049_0001
[00262] Compositions 6 to 9 according to the invention, which comprise UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized with regards, firstly, to the consistency, in particular an uptake in the hand and a suppleness suitable for formulation in ajar, and secondly to the sensoriality, in particular they are not greasy and not tacky, while at the same time being light and soft and having a fondant nature.
[00263] The composition stability results are as follows: [Table 5]
Figure imgf000049_0002
[00264] The compositions according to the invention (compositions 6 to 9), which comprise UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are stable. This stability is improved when the amount of superabsorbent polymer is increased or when the superabsorbent polymer is combined with an AMPS polymer.
[00265] Example 3 - Compositions 10 to 12
[00266] The following compositions are prepared. [Table 6]
Figure imgf000050_0001
Figure imgf000051_0001
[00267] Preparation method
[00268] The starting materials of phase A (10% of water, 17% of glycerol, hydrophilic active agent(s), hydrophilic preserving agent(s)) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the main container and homogenized. The phase is kept at a temperature of 75°C.
[00269] The starting materials of phase B (lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s), oil(s), hydrophobic active agent(s) and hydrophobic preserving agent(s))) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the auxiliary container and heated at 75°C until the phase is totally homogenized.
[00270] Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65°C under a rotor/stator.
[00271] Phase C (q.s. water) is added at 60°C.
[00272] The hydrophilic screening agent is added at 40°C.
[00273] The following are then successively added: phase E at 40°C, phase F at 40°C, then phases G and H at 30°C-35°C.
[00274] Results obtained
[00275] The sensory analysis results are as follows: [Table 7]
Figure imgf000052_0001
[00276] The compositions 10 to 12 according to the invention, which comprise UV- screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer optionally combined with an AMPS polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, exhibit a pleasant sensoriality suitable for daily use. Their consistency is suitable for formulation in ajar.
[00277] Example 4 - Compositions 13 and 14
[00278] The following compositions are prepared.
[Table 7]
Figure imgf000052_0002
Figure imgf000053_0001
[00279] Preparation method
[00280] The starting materials of phase A (10% of water, 17% of glycerol, hydrophilic active agents, hydrophilic preserving agents) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the main container and homogenized. The phase is kept at a temperature of 75°C.
[00281] The starting materials of phase B (lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactants, hydrophobic polymers, oils, hydrophobic active agents and hydrophobic preserving agents) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the auxiliary container and heated at 75°C until the phase is totally homogenized.
[00282] Phase B is introduced into phase A at 65°C under a rotor/stator.
[00283] Phase C (q.s. water) is added at 60°C.
[00284] The hydrophilic screening agent is added 40°C.
[00285] The following are then successively added: phase E at 40°C, phase F at 40°C, then phases G and H at 30°C-35°C.
[00286] Results obtained
[00287] The sensory analysis results are as follows:
[Table 8]
Figure imgf000054_0001
[00288] The compositions 13 and 14 according to the invention, which comprise UV- screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer optionally combined with an AMPS polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, exhibit a pleasant sensoriality suitable for daily use. Their consistency is suitable for formulation in ajar.
[00289] Example - Compositions 15 to 18 [00290] The following compositions are prepared. [Table 9]
Figure imgf000055_0001
Figure imgf000056_0001
[00291] Preparation method
[00292] The starting materials of phase A (15% of water, glycerol, hydrophilic surfactant(s), hydrophilic polymers) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the main container and homogenized. The phase is kept at a temperature of 50°C.
[00293] The starting materials of phase B (UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols, hydrophobic surfactant(s), hydrophobic polymer(s)) are carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision = 0.01 g), added to the auxiliary container and heated at 75°C until the phase is totally homogenized.
[00294] Phase B is introduced into phase A. An emulsion is thus obtained at high shear. [00295] Phase C (q.s. water) is added and the mixture is cooled to 30°C. [00296] Phase D (fillers) is introduced into phase A+B+C with stirring. [00297] Phase E (alcohol) is added at the end of production.
[00298] Results obtained
[00299] The sensory analysis results are as follows: [Table 10]
Figure imgf000057_0001
[00300] In conclusion, the composition according to the invention (composition 18), which comprises UV-screening agents, a superabsorbent polymer, one or more fatty alcohols and perlite, are optimized with regards, firstly, to the consistency, in particular an uptake in the hand and a suppleness suitable for formulation in a jar, and secondly to the sensoriality, in particular they are not greasy and not tacky, while at the same time being light and soft and having a fondant nature.
[00301] Conversely, the sensoriality of the comparative composition comprising silica instead of perlite (composition 17) is not satisfactory, in particular with regard to the greasiness and the tackiness, and the comparative compositions comprising silica silylate instead of perlite (compositions 15 and 16) are instable, which render impossible the evaluation of their consistency and their sensoriality.

Claims

Claims
[Claim 1] A composition, preferably cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
- at least one organic UV-screening agent;
- at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer;
- perlite; and
- at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
[Claim 2] The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the organic UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV-screening agents, liposoluble organic UV- screening agents, insoluble organic UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 3] The composition as claimed in either one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the organic UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, preferably chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 4] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the organic UV-screening agent(s) is ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 5] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in particulate form.
[Claim 6] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the superabsorbent polymer(s) are present in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.15% to 2% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 7] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the perlite is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 8] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetylstearyl alcohol.
[Claim 9] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the fatty alcohol(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 10] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9, also comprising at least one C1-C4 alcohol.
[Claim 11 ] The composition as claimed in claim 10, wherein the C1-C4 alcohols are chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol; it is preferably ethanol.
[Claim 12] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 11, also comprising at least one organic filler.
[Claim 13] The composition as claimed in claim 12, comprising an N-acylamino acid powder.
[Claim 14] The composition as claimed in claim 13, wherein the N-acylamino acids comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group, and the amino acid is chosen from lysine, glutamic acid and alanine.
[Claim 15] The composition as claimed in either one of claims 13 and 14, wherein the N- acylamino acid powder is a lauroyl lysine powder.
[Claim 16] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising at least one hydrophilic polymer comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer.
[Claim 17] The composition as claimed in claim 16, wherein the AMPS hydrophilic polymer is a crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer comprising at least the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, in free form or in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base or an organic base.
[Claim 18] The composition as claimed in either one of claims 16 and 17, wherein the AMPS polymer(s) are chosen from:
- “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents; and - copolymers obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.
[Claim 19] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 18, in the form of an oil- in-water emulsion.
[Claim 20] A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19.
PCT/EP2022/054341 2021-02-25 2022-02-22 Composition comprising an organic uv-screening agent, a superabsorbant polymer, perlite and a fatty alcohol WO2022180010A2 (en)

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