EP4251124A1 - Procédé de coloration/décoloration et traitement général des cheveux - Google Patents
Procédé de coloration/décoloration et traitement général des cheveuxInfo
- Publication number
- EP4251124A1 EP4251124A1 EP21794998.1A EP21794998A EP4251124A1 EP 4251124 A1 EP4251124 A1 EP 4251124A1 EP 21794998 A EP21794998 A EP 21794998A EP 4251124 A1 EP4251124 A1 EP 4251124A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- dyeing
- coloured
- bleaching
- dye
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 title description 10
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 title description 3
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 56
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 48
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000000987 azo dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- -1 Bis-Hydroxyethyl Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- XGFPEOLAQHGOOH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-thiophen-2-ylpropanedinitrile Chemical compound N#CC(C#N)C1=CC=CS1 XGFPEOLAQHGOOH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- ZKQDCIXGCQPQNV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium hypochlorite Chemical compound [Ca+2].Cl[O-].Cl[O-] ZKQDCIXGCQPQNV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- UWHCKJMYHZGTIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetraethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCOCCO UWHCKJMYHZGTIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 30
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 20
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 19
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 11
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 9
- XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Melanin Chemical compound O=C1C(=O)C(C2=CNC3=C(C(C(=O)C4=C32)=O)C)=C2C4=CNC2=C1C XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- MZZSDCJQCLYLLL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Secalonsaeure A Natural products COC(=O)C12OC3C(CC1=C(O)CC(C)C2O)C(=CC=C3c4ccc(O)c5C(=O)C6=C(O)CC(C)C(O)C6(Oc45)C(=O)OC)O MZZSDCJQCLYLLL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 6
- ROOXNKNUYICQNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonium persulfate Chemical compound [NH4+].[NH4+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)OOS([O-])(=O)=O ROOXNKNUYICQNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 4
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 4
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 206010019049 Hair texture abnormal Diseases 0.000 description 3
- 229910001870 ammonium persulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000003081 coactivator Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000006482 condensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000003472 neutralizing effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000015556 catabolic process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000006731 degradation reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000008187 granular material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000118 hair dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 2
- LCPVQAHEFVXVKT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2,4-difluorophenoxy)pyridin-3-amine Chemical compound NC1=CC=CN=C1OC1=CC=C(F)C=C1F LCPVQAHEFVXVKT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NZKTVPCPQIEVQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[4-[(4-aminophenyl)diazenyl]-n-(2-hydroxyethyl)anilino]ethanol Chemical compound C1=CC(N)=CC=C1N=NC1=CC=C(N(CCO)CCO)C=C1 NZKTVPCPQIEVQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ORWQBKPSGDRPPA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-[2-[ethyl(methyl)amino]ethyl]-1h-indol-4-ol Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=C2C(CCN(C)CC)=CNC2=C1 ORWQBKPSGDRPPA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 239000004115 Sodium Silicate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012670 alkaline solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019395 ammonium persulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019642 color hue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019646 color tone Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009833 condensation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000005494 condensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000006866 deterioration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000037308 hair color Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006460 hydrolysis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007246 mechanism Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005691 oxidative coupling reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- USHAGKDGDHPEEY-UHFFFAOYSA-L potassium persulfate Chemical compound [K+].[K+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)OOS([O-])(=O)=O USHAGKDGDHPEEY-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 230000036632 reaction speed Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009257 reactivity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000019795 sodium metasilicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- CHQMHPLRPQMAMX-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium persulfate Substances [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)OOS([O-])(=O)=O CHQMHPLRPQMAMX-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- NTHWMYGWWRZVTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium silicate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-][Si]([O-])=O NTHWMYGWWRZVTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052911 sodium silicate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000087 stabilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4986—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with sulfur as the only hetero atom
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09B—ORGANIC DYES OR CLOSELY-RELATED COMPOUNDS FOR PRODUCING DYES, e.g. PIGMENTS; MORDANTS; LAKES
- C09B67/00—Influencing the physical, e.g. the dyeing or printing properties of dyestuffs without chemical reactions, e.g. by treating with solvents grinding or grinding assistants, coating of pigments or dyes; Process features in the making of dyestuff preparations; Dyestuff preparations of a special physical nature, e.g. tablets, films
- C09B67/0071—Process features in the making of dyestuff preparations; Dehydrating agents; Dispersing agents; Dustfree compositions
- C09B67/0083—Solutions of dyes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
- A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
- A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
Definitions
- the present invention is related to the products for dyeing/bleaching hair, and more specifically it concerns a new method for dyeing/bleaching hair and for treating hair in general by using a coloured hydrogen peroxide solution hereinafter referred to as coloured oxidizing solution.
- the patent concerns also a new oxidizing solution for dyeing/bleaching hair and for hair treatments in general, and a new mixture in two phases for dyeing/bleaching hair and for hair treatments in general.
- hair dyes are used by more than 60% of the female population and by 5-10% of the male population for different purposes such as for covering grey hair or for changing the natural or artificial colour of the hair.
- the natural colour of hair is determined by melanin, a polymer with high molecular weight, insoluble in water and in many solvents, with very low chemical reactivity. Melanin is present in dark hair in the form of larger or smaller granules and in blond-red hair in the form of micro granules.
- the artificial dye which is most resistant to deterioration and change over time is the permanent dye resulting from oxidation, the so-called oxidative dye due to the type of chemical reaction involved.
- the hair dyeing mechanism is complicated and involves the use of precursors, that is, of uncolored chemical substances which during the oxidative polycondensation process are capable of producing, through oxidation, a polymer pigment that adheres to keratin.
- Various types of hair dyes are known in the market, all of which consist of two separate phases: a first phase containing the dye precursors and a second phase containing the oxidants, that is, a hydrogen peroxide solution.
- couplers that is, molecules which can react (through condensation) with the oxidized precursors to produce the polymer pigment.
- Hair bleaching is a chemical treatment suited to remove from the hair the colouring substances which can be of natural origin, like melanin, or of artificial origin, that is, deriving from previous oxidative dyeing treatments.
- Bleaching agents generally contain peroxide salts: ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and the like.
- peroxide salts ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and the like.
- the maximum concentration of hydrogen peroxide allowed for hair products is equal to 12%.
- Said direct dyes which are included in the same phase containing the precursors, generally belong to the families described below.
- Said dyes do not participate in the oxidative condensation reactions but affect the final colour of the hair.
- Said dyes cannot be added to the phase containing the oxidants as they are not stable and are quickly affected by the oxidizing action, thus reducing the effectiveness of the product.
- the subject of the present invention is a new method for dyeing/bleaching and for treating hair in general by means of a coloured hydrogen peroxide solution, hereinafter referred to as coloured oxidizing solution, that is, a solution containing hydrogen peroxide and at least one dye belonging to at least one class of polymer azo dyes.
- coloured oxidizing solution a solution containing hydrogen peroxide and at least one dye belonging to at least one class of polymer azo dyes.
- the patent concerns also the new oxidizing solution for hair dyeing/bleaching and for hair treatments in general as well as a new mixture in two phases for hair dyeing/bleaching and for hair treatments in general, wherein the first phase comprises said oxidizing solution and the second phase comprises the precursors, and wherein said two phases must be mixed together at the moment of application to the hair.
- the dye differs both from direct dyes and from the precursors currently used in hair dyeing/bleaching products, being a polymer dye which does not react with hydrogen peroxide, and therefore can be included in the oxidizing solution, which in fact contains hydrogen peroxide, and remain stable.
- An example of a polymer dye used and having specific proven effectiveness is the dye classified with the following INCI name: Bis-Hydroxyethyl/PPG-7/PEG-4 Dicyanomethylthiophene Azotoluidine.
- the specified INCI name describes a compound containing the dyeing pigment and substances with stabilizing and preserving properties.
- said coloured oxidizing solution can be used in hair bleaching and/or dyeing treatments.
- the dye therefore, is not included in the phase containing the precursor but rather in the phase containing hydrogen peroxide.
- the present invention ensures more versatility of use since the implementation of the new method makes it possible to change the colour hue through several techniques and products used in combination with them.
- said coloured oxidizing solution can be mixed with other compounds in turn containing the precursor and the couplers normally used in oxidation dyeing processes.
- Said coloured oxidizing solution comprises a concentration of hydrogen peroxide which is variable and in any case within the limit value established by the regulations in force, currently 12%.
- Said coloured oxidizing solution can be used in combination with bleaching compounds in the form of powder, cream, or oil.
- Said coloured oxidizing solution can also be used alone on the hair for post-straightening or post-waving fixing treatments with a neutralizing/toning effect, to fix the hair style and/or to counteract the yellow hues of the hair.
- the object of the test is to assess the neutralizing effectiveness of the dyeing pigment contained in the coloured oxidizing solution on a hair lock.
- Neutralizing effectiveness generically means the ability to mitigate some undesired hues which emerge during the hair bleaching and/or dyeing operations and tend to produce a colour change towards yellow and reddish tones, which generally takes place in the case of very dark hair.
- Said test is carried out by varying the concentration of dyeing pigment and hydrogen peroxide in the coloured oxidizing solution.
- STD oxygen indicates a water-based stabilized oxidizing emulsion containing emulsifiers and waxes of plant origin, with viscosity included between 900 and 1200 cps.
- Coactivator indicates a water-based stabilized emulsion containing emulsifiers and waxes of plant origin, with viscosity included between 8000 and 120000 cps.
- Test 1 BLEACHING
- Each sample has been mixed with a bleaching powder in the ratio 1 :2 (powdersample), applied to a hair lock in a natural colour (tone 6 - dark blond) and left on for 45 minutes.
- Test 2 DYEING with super liqhtener
- Each sample has been mixed with an oxidative dye in the ratio 1 :2 (dye: sample), applied to a hair lock in a natural colour (tone 6) and left on for 45 minutes.
- Test 3 TONER (toning with dye)
- Each sample has been mixed with a dye in the ratio 1 :2 (dye:sarmple), applied to a bleached hair lock (tone 9-10) and left on for 20 minutes.
- FIG. 2 shows the results of the bleaching test 1 carried out using sample 2 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
- the lightening process that is, the bleaching process, is more effective with lower concentrations of dyeing pigment.
- FIG. 3 shows the results of the dyeing test 2 with super lightener carried out using sample 1 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
- FIG. 4 shows the results of the dyeing test 2 with super lightener carried out using sample 2 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
- FIG. 5 shows the results of the toning test 3 with dye carried out using sample 1 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
- the toner is neutral.
- FIG. 6 shows the results of the bleaching test 1 carried out using sample 3 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
- FIG. 7 shows the results of the bleaching test 1 carried out using sample 4 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
- the lightening process that is, the bleaching process, is more effective with lower concentrations of dyeing pigment.
- FIG. 8 shows the results of the dyeing test 2 with super lightener carried out using sample 4 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
- FIG. 9 shows the results of the toning test 3 with dye carried out using sample 3 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
- the toner is neutral.
- the mixing ratio for using the powder mixed with the coloured oxidizing solution is 1 :2: 1 :1 .5 for dyes with tones from 3/ to 10/ (on a scale from 1/, corresponding to the darkest tone, that is, black, to 10/, corresponding to the lighest blonde tone), while for super lighteners it is 1 :2.
- the mixing ratio for using oxidative dyes mixed with the coloured oxidizing solution is 1 :1.5 for dyes from 3/ to 10/, while for super lighteners it is 1 :2.
- the mixing ratio for using oxidative toners mixed with the coloured oxidizing solution is 1 :2.
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
IT202000028265 | 2020-11-24 | ||
PCT/IB2021/059391 WO2022112876A1 (fr) | 2020-11-24 | 2021-10-13 | Procédé de coloration/décoloration et traitement général des cheveux |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP4251124A1 true EP4251124A1 (fr) | 2023-10-04 |
Family
ID=74592474
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP21794998.1A Pending EP4251124A1 (fr) | 2020-11-24 | 2021-10-13 | Procédé de coloration/décoloration et traitement général des cheveux |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP4251124A1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2022112876A1 (fr) |
Family Cites Families (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US6664311B2 (en) * | 2001-10-26 | 2003-12-16 | Milliken & Company | Toner compounds and compositions for black offset inks |
BRPI0612073B1 (pt) * | 2005-06-15 | 2016-08-02 | Ciba Sc Holding Ag | método de tingimento de fibras contendo corantes azooligoméricos catiônicos |
US7976585B2 (en) * | 2007-05-11 | 2011-07-12 | BASF SE Ludwigshafen | Polymeric dyes |
WO2012119811A2 (fr) * | 2011-03-10 | 2012-09-13 | Unilever Plc | Composition |
-
2021
- 2021-10-13 EP EP21794998.1A patent/EP4251124A1/fr active Pending
- 2021-10-13 WO PCT/IB2021/059391 patent/WO2022112876A1/fr unknown
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
WO2022112876A1 (fr) | 2022-06-02 |
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