WO2022112876A1 - Procédé de coloration/décoloration et traitement général des cheveux - Google Patents

Procédé de coloration/décoloration et traitement général des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022112876A1
WO2022112876A1 PCT/IB2021/059391 IB2021059391W WO2022112876A1 WO 2022112876 A1 WO2022112876 A1 WO 2022112876A1 IB 2021059391 W IB2021059391 W IB 2021059391W WO 2022112876 A1 WO2022112876 A1 WO 2022112876A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
dyeing
coloured
bleaching
dye
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2021/059391
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Maria Luisa MARTINI
Gianni PEGORIN
Arturo PEGORIN
Original Assignee
Agf88 Holding Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Agf88 Holding Srl filed Critical Agf88 Holding Srl
Priority to EP21794998.1A priority Critical patent/EP4251124A1/fr
Publication of WO2022112876A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022112876A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4986—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with sulfur as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09B—ORGANIC DYES OR CLOSELY-RELATED COMPOUNDS FOR PRODUCING DYES, e.g. PIGMENTS; MORDANTS; LAKES
    • C09B67/00—Influencing the physical, e.g. the dyeing or printing properties of dyestuffs without chemical reactions, e.g. by treating with solvents grinding or grinding assistants, coating of pigments or dyes; Process features in the making of dyestuff preparations; Dyestuff preparations of a special physical nature, e.g. tablets, films
    • C09B67/0071—Process features in the making of dyestuff preparations; Dehydrating agents; Dispersing agents; Dustfree compositions
    • C09B67/0083—Solutions of dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • the present invention is related to the products for dyeing/bleaching hair, and more specifically it concerns a new method for dyeing/bleaching hair and for treating hair in general by using a coloured hydrogen peroxide solution hereinafter referred to as coloured oxidizing solution.
  • the patent concerns also a new oxidizing solution for dyeing/bleaching hair and for hair treatments in general, and a new mixture in two phases for dyeing/bleaching hair and for hair treatments in general.
  • hair dyes are used by more than 60% of the female population and by 5-10% of the male population for different purposes such as for covering grey hair or for changing the natural or artificial colour of the hair.
  • the natural colour of hair is determined by melanin, a polymer with high molecular weight, insoluble in water and in many solvents, with very low chemical reactivity. Melanin is present in dark hair in the form of larger or smaller granules and in blond-red hair in the form of micro granules.
  • the artificial dye which is most resistant to deterioration and change over time is the permanent dye resulting from oxidation, the so-called oxidative dye due to the type of chemical reaction involved.
  • the hair dyeing mechanism is complicated and involves the use of precursors, that is, of uncolored chemical substances which during the oxidative polycondensation process are capable of producing, through oxidation, a polymer pigment that adheres to keratin.
  • Various types of hair dyes are known in the market, all of which consist of two separate phases: a first phase containing the dye precursors and a second phase containing the oxidants, that is, a hydrogen peroxide solution.
  • couplers that is, molecules which can react (through condensation) with the oxidized precursors to produce the polymer pigment.
  • Hair bleaching is a chemical treatment suited to remove from the hair the colouring substances which can be of natural origin, like melanin, or of artificial origin, that is, deriving from previous oxidative dyeing treatments.
  • Bleaching agents generally contain peroxide salts: ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and the like.
  • peroxide salts ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and the like.
  • the maximum concentration of hydrogen peroxide allowed for hair products is equal to 12%.
  • Said direct dyes which are included in the same phase containing the precursors, generally belong to the families described below.
  • Said dyes do not participate in the oxidative condensation reactions but affect the final colour of the hair.
  • Said dyes cannot be added to the phase containing the oxidants as they are not stable and are quickly affected by the oxidizing action, thus reducing the effectiveness of the product.
  • the subject of the present invention is a new method for dyeing/bleaching and for treating hair in general by means of a coloured hydrogen peroxide solution, hereinafter referred to as coloured oxidizing solution, that is, a solution containing hydrogen peroxide and at least one dye belonging to at least one class of polymer azo dyes.
  • coloured oxidizing solution a solution containing hydrogen peroxide and at least one dye belonging to at least one class of polymer azo dyes.
  • the patent concerns also the new oxidizing solution for hair dyeing/bleaching and for hair treatments in general as well as a new mixture in two phases for hair dyeing/bleaching and for hair treatments in general, wherein the first phase comprises said oxidizing solution and the second phase comprises the precursors, and wherein said two phases must be mixed together at the moment of application to the hair.
  • the dye differs both from direct dyes and from the precursors currently used in hair dyeing/bleaching products, being a polymer dye which does not react with hydrogen peroxide, and therefore can be included in the oxidizing solution, which in fact contains hydrogen peroxide, and remain stable.
  • An example of a polymer dye used and having specific proven effectiveness is the dye classified with the following INCI name: Bis-Hydroxyethyl/PPG-7/PEG-4 Dicyanomethylthiophene Azotoluidine.
  • the specified INCI name describes a compound containing the dyeing pigment and substances with stabilizing and preserving properties.
  • said coloured oxidizing solution can be used in hair bleaching and/or dyeing treatments.
  • the dye therefore, is not included in the phase containing the precursor but rather in the phase containing hydrogen peroxide.
  • the present invention ensures more versatility of use since the implementation of the new method makes it possible to change the colour hue through several techniques and products used in combination with them.
  • said coloured oxidizing solution can be mixed with other compounds in turn containing the precursor and the couplers normally used in oxidation dyeing processes.
  • Said coloured oxidizing solution comprises a concentration of hydrogen peroxide which is variable and in any case within the limit value established by the regulations in force, currently 12%.
  • Said coloured oxidizing solution can be used in combination with bleaching compounds in the form of powder, cream, or oil.
  • Said coloured oxidizing solution can also be used alone on the hair for post-straightening or post-waving fixing treatments with a neutralizing/toning effect, to fix the hair style and/or to counteract the yellow hues of the hair.
  • the object of the test is to assess the neutralizing effectiveness of the dyeing pigment contained in the coloured oxidizing solution on a hair lock.
  • Neutralizing effectiveness generically means the ability to mitigate some undesired hues which emerge during the hair bleaching and/or dyeing operations and tend to produce a colour change towards yellow and reddish tones, which generally takes place in the case of very dark hair.
  • Said test is carried out by varying the concentration of dyeing pigment and hydrogen peroxide in the coloured oxidizing solution.
  • STD oxygen indicates a water-based stabilized oxidizing emulsion containing emulsifiers and waxes of plant origin, with viscosity included between 900 and 1200 cps.
  • Coactivator indicates a water-based stabilized emulsion containing emulsifiers and waxes of plant origin, with viscosity included between 8000 and 120000 cps.
  • Test 1 BLEACHING
  • Each sample has been mixed with a bleaching powder in the ratio 1 :2 (powdersample), applied to a hair lock in a natural colour (tone 6 - dark blond) and left on for 45 minutes.
  • Test 2 DYEING with super liqhtener
  • Each sample has been mixed with an oxidative dye in the ratio 1 :2 (dye: sample), applied to a hair lock in a natural colour (tone 6) and left on for 45 minutes.
  • Test 3 TONER (toning with dye)
  • Each sample has been mixed with a dye in the ratio 1 :2 (dye:sarmple), applied to a bleached hair lock (tone 9-10) and left on for 20 minutes.
  • FIG. 2 shows the results of the bleaching test 1 carried out using sample 2 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
  • the lightening process that is, the bleaching process, is more effective with lower concentrations of dyeing pigment.
  • FIG. 3 shows the results of the dyeing test 2 with super lightener carried out using sample 1 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
  • FIG. 4 shows the results of the dyeing test 2 with super lightener carried out using sample 2 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
  • FIG. 5 shows the results of the toning test 3 with dye carried out using sample 1 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
  • the toner is neutral.
  • FIG. 6 shows the results of the bleaching test 1 carried out using sample 3 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
  • FIG. 7 shows the results of the bleaching test 1 carried out using sample 4 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
  • the lightening process that is, the bleaching process, is more effective with lower concentrations of dyeing pigment.
  • FIG. 8 shows the results of the dyeing test 2 with super lightener carried out using sample 4 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
  • FIG. 9 shows the results of the toning test 3 with dye carried out using sample 3 with the three different concentrations of dyeing pigment A, B, C.
  • the toner is neutral.
  • the mixing ratio for using the powder mixed with the coloured oxidizing solution is 1 :2: 1 :1 .5 for dyes with tones from 3/ to 10/ (on a scale from 1/, corresponding to the darkest tone, that is, black, to 10/, corresponding to the lighest blonde tone), while for super lighteners it is 1 :2.
  • the mixing ratio for using oxidative dyes mixed with the coloured oxidizing solution is 1 :1.5 for dyes from 3/ to 10/, while for super lighteners it is 1 :2.
  • the mixing ratio for using oxidative toners mixed with the coloured oxidizing solution is 1 :2.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de coloration et/ou de décoloration des cheveux, comprenant l'utilisation d'une solution contenant du peroxyde d'hydrogène et au moins un colorant appartenant à au moins une classe de colorants azoïques polymères de manière à former une solution oxydante colorée. Le présent brevet concerne également la solution oxydante colorée et le mélange en deux phases à mélanger au moment de l'application, la première phase étant ladite solution oxydante colorée et la seconde phase comprenant un ou plusieurs précurseurs.
PCT/IB2021/059391 2020-11-24 2021-10-13 Procédé de coloration/décoloration et traitement général des cheveux WO2022112876A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21794998.1A EP4251124A1 (fr) 2020-11-24 2021-10-13 Procédé de coloration/décoloration et traitement général des cheveux

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT102020000028265 2020-11-24
IT202000028265 2020-11-24

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2022112876A1 true WO2022112876A1 (fr) 2022-06-02

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ID=74592474

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IB2021/059391 WO2022112876A1 (fr) 2020-11-24 2021-10-13 Procédé de coloration/décoloration et traitement général des cheveux

Country Status (2)

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EP (1) EP4251124A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2022112876A1 (fr)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030110977A1 (en) * 2001-10-26 2003-06-19 Rajnish Batlaw Novel toner compounds and compositions for black offset inks
US20090293208A1 (en) * 2005-06-15 2009-12-03 Victor Paul Eliu Cationic oligomeric azo dyes
US20100192312A1 (en) * 2007-05-11 2010-08-05 Ciba Corporation Polymeric dyes
WO2012119811A2 (fr) * 2011-03-10 2012-09-13 Unilever Plc Composition

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030110977A1 (en) * 2001-10-26 2003-06-19 Rajnish Batlaw Novel toner compounds and compositions for black offset inks
US20090293208A1 (en) * 2005-06-15 2009-12-03 Victor Paul Eliu Cationic oligomeric azo dyes
US20100192312A1 (en) * 2007-05-11 2010-08-05 Ciba Corporation Polymeric dyes
WO2012119811A2 (fr) * 2011-03-10 2012-09-13 Unilever Plc Composition

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP4251124A1 (fr) 2023-10-04

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