EP4224259A1 - Komponente zur verkleidung einer uhr oder eines schmuck- oder juwelierartikels und verfahren zur herstellung einer solchen verkleidungskomponente - Google Patents

Komponente zur verkleidung einer uhr oder eines schmuck- oder juwelierartikels und verfahren zur herstellung einer solchen verkleidungskomponente Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4224259A1
EP4224259A1 EP22155491.8A EP22155491A EP4224259A1 EP 4224259 A1 EP4224259 A1 EP 4224259A1 EP 22155491 A EP22155491 A EP 22155491A EP 4224259 A1 EP4224259 A1 EP 4224259A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
substrate
base layer
internal face
face
watch
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22155491.8A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jan LINTYMER
Benoit GIRY
Gabriel Rittiner
Pierry Vuille
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Comadur SA
Original Assignee
Comadur SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Comadur SA filed Critical Comadur SA
Priority to EP22155491.8A priority Critical patent/EP4224259A1/de
Priority to US18/154,076 priority patent/US20230251605A1/en
Priority to JP2023009299A priority patent/JP2023114985A/ja
Publication of EP4224259A1 publication Critical patent/EP4224259A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/12—Selection of materials for dials or graduations markings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of watchmaking, jewelery or jewellery, and relates more particularly to a casing component for a watch or an article of jewelery or jewellery, and a method of manufacturing a such trim component.
  • exterior components for watches in particular dials, flanges, bezels, etc., may have decorations made from thin layers deposited on the surface of a substrate.
  • the latter can be relatively complex to produce.
  • respecting the alignment tolerances of the thin layers with respect to each other can be particularly problematic.
  • the present invention aims to improve the precision and the quality of the decorations of a watch exterior component, in particular in the visual aspect of juxtaposed thin layers visible through a transparent substrate.
  • the invention solves the problem of respecting the alignment tolerances of the decorations on a trim component, in particular the alignment of the thin layers with each other and vis-à-vis the structures on which said thin layers are deposited. .
  • the invention relates, for this purpose, to a component for covering a watch or an article of jewelry or jewelry, comprising a substrate made of a transparent material, said substrate comprising an internal face opposite an external face.
  • the trim component comprises a base layer deposited on a first portion of the inner face and at least one secondary layer deposited on the base layer and on a second portion of the inner face, the first and the second portion of the inner face internal having different surface states from each other.
  • the invention may also include one or more of the following characteristics, taken separately or in all technically possible combinations.
  • the first portion of the internal face is polished, and the second portion of the internal face is structured.
  • the base layer and the secondary layer are of different composition from each other.
  • the present invention relates to a watch dial formed by a covering component as described above.
  • the manufacturing method comprises a preliminary step of polishing the internal face of the substrate.
  • the manufacturing method comprises a final etching step in which part of the base layer and part of the secondary layer are removed so as to conform said layers according to a predefined shape, without the substrate is not impacted.
  • the step of local ablation of the base layer is carried out by laser beam.
  • the present invention relates to a trim component 10 of a watch or an article of jewelery or jewelery as shown in the figures 3 and 4 in exemplary embodiments, and as shown, during stages of its manufacture, on the figures 1 and 2 .
  • the dressing component 10 comprises a substrate 11 made of a transparent material, such as sapphire or glass.
  • the substrate 11 comprises an internal face 110 opposite an external face 111 from which a user is intended to see a decoration of the covering component 10, through said substrate 11. More particularly, the external face 111 is intended to be oriented towards an external environment and the internal face 110 is intended to be oriented towards an internal environment, for example facing a watch movement, in the case in which the covering component 10 is a component of a watch.
  • the covering component 10 comprises a base layer 12 deposited on a first portion of the inner face 110 and at least one secondary layer 13 deposited on the base layer 12 and on a second portion of the inner face 110 not covered by said base coat 12. As shown in the figures 3 and 4 , the first and the second portion of the inner face 110 are contiguous to one another.
  • the first and the second portion of the inner face 110 have different surface states from each other.
  • the first portion of the inner face 110 is preferably polished, and the second portion of the inner face 110 preferably has at least one structuring 112.
  • structuring 112 In the present description of the invention, reference is made below to a only structuring 112 to facilitate reading.
  • the notion of “structuring” here defines a surface whose topography has been modified and this may consist of satin-finishing, texturing, engraving, etc.
  • the combination between the base layer 12, secondary layer 13 and the different surface states advantageously form a particularly attractive decoration.
  • the base layer 12 and the secondary layer 13 preferably have different compositions from each other. They can be made of any suitable material, for example metal, such as chromium, gold, titanium, zirconium, etc., or ceramic. These layers can also be formed, one and/or the other, by a stack of thin layers, in a manner known per se by those skilled in the art.
  • This covering component 10 preferably forms a watch dial or flange.
  • this trim component 10 is preferably produced by a manufacturing process whose stages are represented chronologically by the figures 1 to 3 and optionally 1 to 4 in another exemplary implementation.
  • the manufacturing method comprises a first step of depositing the base layer 12 on the entire surface of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, as represented on the figure 1 .
  • Such a deposition can be carried out by physical vapor deposition method, chemical vapor deposition method, or by any other appropriate method.
  • the inner face 110 is polished during a preliminary polishing step, prior to the deposition of the base layer 12.
  • the method then comprises a step of localized ablation of the base layer 12, as represented by the picture 2 , so as to form one or more pockets 14 opening onto the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 and, at the same time, to structure said internal face 110 at the level of the or each of the pockets 14 in order to achieve a structuring 112.
  • the part of the base layer 12 not impacted by the ablation rests against a first portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, the pockets 14 open onto a second portion of the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, and said second portion of the inner face 110 is structured.
  • the or each structuring 112 coincides perfectly with the pocket 14 with which it is generated.
  • the local ablation of the base layer 12, and consequently, the structuring(s) 112 of the second portion of the internal face 110, is preferably carried out by laser beam.
  • the local ablation step can be performed by robotic engraving with a diamond tip, by mechanical or chemical machining, etc.
  • a step of depositing a secondary layer 13 is then carried out on the base layer 12 and in the pockets 14, that is to say, on the second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, so to obtain a covering component 10 as seen on the picture 3 .
  • Compliance with the alignment tolerances of the base layer 12 and of the secondary layer 13 with the first and the second portion of the internal face 110 having different surface states is therefore ensured.
  • the visual appearance of the decoration of the covering component 10 can be particularly attractive insofar as the contrast between the possible difference in colors of the base layer 12 and of the layer secondary 13, is added the contrast between the different surface states of the portions of the inner face 110 on which said layers are respectively deposited.
  • the deposition of the secondary layer 13 can also be carried out by physical vapor deposition method, chemical vapor deposition method, or by any other appropriate method.
  • the method may include a final etching step in which part of the base layer 12 and part of the layer 13 are removed so as to form said layers according to a predefined shape, without the substrate 11 being impacted, as shown in the figure 4 .
  • Such a final etching step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.
  • the manufacturing process may include another step of localized ablation in order to produce one or more pockets passing through the base layer 12 and the secondary layer 13 until they emerge on a portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, and at the same time, to structure said portion of the internal face 110.
  • a third layer can be deposited on the secondary layer 13 and in the said pocket or pockets, in a manner analogous to the step of depositing the secondary layer 13.
  • the method may include as many localized ablation steps, each followed by a step of depositing an additional layer, as necessary, depending on the desired decoration.
EP22155491.8A 2022-02-07 2022-02-07 Komponente zur verkleidung einer uhr oder eines schmuck- oder juwelierartikels und verfahren zur herstellung einer solchen verkleidungskomponente Pending EP4224259A1 (de)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP22155491.8A EP4224259A1 (de) 2022-02-07 2022-02-07 Komponente zur verkleidung einer uhr oder eines schmuck- oder juwelierartikels und verfahren zur herstellung einer solchen verkleidungskomponente
US18/154,076 US20230251605A1 (en) 2022-02-07 2023-01-13 External part component of a watch or of a fashion or jewellery item and method for manufacturing such an external part component
JP2023009299A JP2023114985A (ja) 2022-02-07 2023-01-25 携行型時計、ファッション物品又は宝飾品の外側部品、及びその外側部品の製造方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP22155491.8A EP4224259A1 (de) 2022-02-07 2022-02-07 Komponente zur verkleidung einer uhr oder eines schmuck- oder juwelierartikels und verfahren zur herstellung einer solchen verkleidungskomponente

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4224259A1 true EP4224259A1 (de) 2023-08-09

Family

ID=80222230

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP22155491.8A Pending EP4224259A1 (de) 2022-02-07 2022-02-07 Komponente zur verkleidung einer uhr oder eines schmuck- oder juwelierartikels und verfahren zur herstellung einer solchen verkleidungskomponente

Country Status (1)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4224259A1 (de)

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1450332A1 (de) * 2002-06-13 2004-08-25 Seiko Epson Corporation Blattartige dichtung und bondverfahren dafür, ziffernblatt, verfahren zur herstellung des ziffernblatts und uhr
CN2794879Y (zh) * 2003-12-16 2006-07-12 精工爱普生株式会社 装饰部件、片状密封体、钟表及被装饰部件
EP3709102A1 (de) * 2019-03-14 2020-09-16 Omega SA Komponente eines uhrwerks oder schmuckstücks auf keramikbasis und mit einer dekorstruktur

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1450332A1 (de) * 2002-06-13 2004-08-25 Seiko Epson Corporation Blattartige dichtung und bondverfahren dafür, ziffernblatt, verfahren zur herstellung des ziffernblatts und uhr
CN2794879Y (zh) * 2003-12-16 2006-07-12 精工爱普生株式会社 装饰部件、片状密封体、钟表及被装饰部件
EP3709102A1 (de) * 2019-03-14 2020-09-16 Omega SA Komponente eines uhrwerks oder schmuckstücks auf keramikbasis und mit einer dekorstruktur

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