EP4076347A1 - Composition cosmétique, procédé de fabrication de la composition cosmétique et utilisation de la composition cosmétique - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique, procédé de fabrication de la composition cosmétique et utilisation de la composition cosmétique

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Publication number
EP4076347A1
EP4076347A1 EP19828194.1A EP19828194A EP4076347A1 EP 4076347 A1 EP4076347 A1 EP 4076347A1 EP 19828194 A EP19828194 A EP 19828194A EP 4076347 A1 EP4076347 A1 EP 4076347A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
phase
composition
cosmetic composition
weight
trademark
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP19828194.1A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Antoniela GARDOLINSKI
Vitor. BORGES
Tassia. HANASHIRO
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Gardolinski Antoniela
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP4076347A1 publication Critical patent/EP4076347A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/45—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/496—Triazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzotriazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/591—Mixtures of compounds not provided for by any of the codes A61K2800/592 - A61K2800/596

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to new cosmetic compositions with high SPF, dry touch sensorial and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin, the uses of said cosmetic compositions and a process of manufacturing the cosmetic compositions.
  • UVA/UVB cosmetic compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
  • the degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA/UVB).
  • sunscreen products are very sensible and crucial to the consumers.
  • cosmetic compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • this combination of properties has been difficult to achieve, particularly because many active sunscreen compounds themselves have an oily or greasy feel and leave a white film on the skin.
  • sunscreen filters are oil-like and/or oil-soluble materials. High levels of sunscreen filters in sunscreen products render the products less appealing for their greasy skin feel, stickiness, long drying time, and leave shiny and white residue on the skin after application.
  • an important problem of cosmetic compositions is that, due to the great amount of sunscreen filters associated with great amount of additional ingredients to ensure the good sensoriality in the O/W emulsion, it tends to be unstable.
  • a stable cosmetic composition is desired, associated with easy application, good spreadability, less shine, dry touch, high SPF values and no white film, combining high protection of the skin.
  • the inventors succeeded to overcome the problems of the state of the art and surprisingly revealed a stable cosmetic composition, even at high concentrations of UV filters, having a light feel and pleasant sensorial as described above, through a specific combination of (i) a phase A comprising an organic UV filter system and a (ii) phase B comprising silica silylate and cellulose.
  • the present invention is directed to new cosmetic compositions comprising (i) a phase A comprising an organic UV filter system and (ii) a phase B comprising silica silylate and cellulose.
  • composition of the present invention is stable over the time, also presents a high level of UV-protection in order to protect the skin from the damages of the sun, easy application, good spreadability, less shine, dry touch and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance when applied on the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
  • phase A an oil phase which comprises an organic UV filter system selected from the group of: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; ethylhexyl triazone; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; octocrylene; homosalate; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl- 10 laurate; bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and mixtures thereof; and
  • organic UV filter system selected from the group of: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; ethylhexyl triazone; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; octocrylene; homosalate; methylene bis-benzotriazo
  • phase B a water phase which comprises silica silylate and cellulose.
  • composition according to the invention presents a dry touch sensorial performance and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin, as well as a strong and robust stability of the composition over the time, even at high concentrations of UV filters.
  • the amount of the phase A in the cosmetic composition of the invention preferably ranges from about 3% to about 60% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 45% by weight, more preferably about 7% to about 30% by weight, most preferably about 10% to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the phase B in the composition of the present invention is ranging from about 0.1% to 70% by weight and preferably from about 0.2% to about 60% by weight, and preferably from about 1 .0% to about 45% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the phase B of the present invention comprises silica silylate in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 8% by weight and preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, and preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the phase B of the present invention comprises cellulose in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to 9.5% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to about 7% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the phase B of the composition of the invention comprises water in an amount of about 60% or less, such as from about 60% to about 5% by weight, or about 50%, 40%, 45%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5% or less, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion and can be used as a daily product for the skin.
  • O/W oil in water
  • the pH of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is generally between 4 and 6.
  • composition of the present invention presents a SPF of 30, 50, 60, 70 or 90.
  • the composition of the present invention presents a high level of UV-protection in order to protect the skin from the damages of the sun, easy application, good spreadability, less shine, dry touch and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin. Also, the composition of the present invention is stable over the time and presents enhanced emulsion stability. In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of a composition for manufacturing a product for preventing sunburn, which can be used as sunscreen daily product.
  • the present invention is also related to a process of manufacturing a cosmetic composition that provides to the consumers the properties described above.
  • a process of manufacturing the cosmetic composition comprising:
  • phase A an oil phase which comprises an organic UV filter system selected from the group of: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; ethylhexyl triazone; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; octocrylene; homosalate; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl- 10 laurate; bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and mixtures thereof; and
  • organic UV filter system selected from the group of: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; ethylhexyl triazone; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; octocrylene; homosalate; methylene bis-benzotriazo
  • phase B a water phase which comprises silica silylate and cellulose; wherein the process of manufacturing comprises the following steps:
  • phase A (a) preparing an oily phase (phase A) by mixing the UV filters, wherein the oily phase is heated until complete homogenization;
  • phase B aqueous phase
  • the aqueous phase of step (b) is prepared by mixing water to the oily phase (a) and after a few minutes of agitation with shear leading to a tight emulsion add the silica silylate and cellulose.
  • step (a) of the process of the present invention further comprises the mixing of at least one additional ingredient.
  • the least one additional ingredient of steps (a) and (b) is selected from the group consisting of inorganic and inorganic UV filters, coated pigments, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, surfactants, additional fillers, silicones, antioxidants, solvents, fatty compounds, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • the amounts of the ingredients are based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the phase A of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is related to an oil phase which comprises an organic UV filter system selected from the group of: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; ethylhexyl triazone; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; octocrylene; homosalate; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl- 10 laurate; bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and mixtures thereof
  • composition of the present invention may comprise UV filters selected from the group of inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition may comprises at least one inorganic UV filter. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.
  • the inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the inorganic UV filter is in some embodiments insoluble in solvents, such as water, and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.
  • the inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle such that the mean (primary) particle diameter thereof ranges from about 1 nm to about 50 nm, and in some embodiments from about 5 nm to about 40 nm, and in some embodiments from about 10 nm to about 30 nm.
  • the mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter here is an arithmetic mean diameter.
  • the inorganic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of silicon carbide, metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof.
  • the inorganic UV filters are selected from pigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally from about 5 nm to about 50 nm, and in some embodiments from about 10 nm to about 50 nm) formed of metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and/or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se.
  • the inorganic UV filters are selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and, in some embodiments, titanium oxide.
  • the inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated.
  • the inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating.
  • the coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes, such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds. It is in some embodiments desirable for the coating to include at least one organic UV filter.
  • a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H- Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-Tetramethyl-Butyl) Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol), such as marketed as "TINOSORB M" by BASF, may be desirable.
  • the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeated main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
  • silicones also encompasses silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
  • the silicones used for the coating(s) can be and in some embodiments are selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. And in some embodiments still, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
  • the inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfacing agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or their mixtures.
  • the coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical, and/or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes waxes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
  • the coated inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxides coated: with silica, such as the product “Sun veil” from Ikeda, and “Sunsil TIN 50” from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and with iron oxide, such as the product “Sunveil F” from Ikeda; with silica and with alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide, and “Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia; with alumina, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55 (A)” from Ishihara, and "UVT 14/4" from Kemira; with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01" from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W"
  • titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are, and in some embodiments T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "T 805" by Degussa Silices, T1O2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF TiCbSb" by Cardre, and anatase/rutile T1O2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.
  • T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm such as that marketed under the trademark "T 80
  • the following coated T1O2 can be used as the coated inorganic UV filter: Stearic acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-100 TV” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "S A-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Silica (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-100 WP" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-Y02" and “MT-Y-110 M3S” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 10 nm; Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the
  • T1O2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is more desirable.
  • Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "HXMT-100ZA” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks "Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B", by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark “UFTR”, by Tomen under the trademark “ITS” and by Tioxide under the trademark "Tioveil AQ”.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the trademark “Z-cote” by Sunsmart; those marketed under the trademark “Nanox” by Elementis; and those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies.
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the trademark "Oxide Zinc CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the trademark “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nano oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "NFD Ultrafine ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with phosphate of perfiuoroalkyl and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in cyclopent
  • the uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ”, and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by Mitsubishi under the trademark "TY-220”.
  • the coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345”, and “Nanogard FE 45 BL”, or by BASF under the trademark “Oxyde de fer transparent”.
  • titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide including a mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silica and of cerium dioxide coated with silica, such as marketed by Ikeda under the trademark “Sunveil A”, and also a mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide coated with alumina, with silica and with silicone, such as the product “M 261” marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, with silica
  • Coated inorganic UV filters are desirable, because the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced.
  • the coating(s) may help uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition, according to the present invention.
  • composition may comprise further organic UV filter. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV- A and/or UV-B region.
  • the organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the organic UV filter may be solid or liquid.
  • solid and liquid mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
  • the organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4- diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptid
  • Anthranilic compounds menthyl anthranilates, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • the dibenzoylmethane compounds Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • Cinnamic compounds Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2- ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
  • Salicylic compounds Homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), such as marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Homosalate homomentyl salicylate
  • ethylhexyl salicylate such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer
  • glycol salicylate butyloctyl salicylate
  • phenyl salicylate dipropyleneglycol salicylate
  • TEA salicylate
  • Camphor compounds in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, such as marketed under the trademark “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.
  • 3-benzylidene camphor such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD” by Chimex
  • 4- methylbenzylidene camphor such as
  • Benzophenone compounds Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2- hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); such as marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, such as marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Dis
  • Triazine compounds Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, such as marketed under the trademark “Uvasorb FIEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone, such as marketed under the trademark «UVTNUL T150 » by BASF.
  • Benzotriazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2FI-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975.
  • Benzalmalonate compounds Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, such as marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Floffmann-LaRoche.
  • Benzimidazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, such as marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Fleliopan AP” by Flaarmann and Reimer.
  • Imidazoline compounds Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • Bis-benzoazolyl compounds The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
  • Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • ethyl PABA Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA
  • pentyl dimethyl PABA ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
  • PEG-25 PABA such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25” by BASF.
  • Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6- (2FI-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], such as marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2FI- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], such as marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos.
  • Drometrizole trisiloxane such as marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or- "Mexoryl XL” by L’Oreal.
  • Benzoxazole compounds 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]- 6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino- 1,3,5-triazine, such as marketed under the trademark of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.
  • the organic UV filter(s) be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4- piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethyl
  • the phase B of the present invention is a water phase which comprises silica silylate and cellulose.
  • the “silica silylate” according to the present invention is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • Silica aerogels are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2). This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • a supercritical fluid such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2).
  • the silica silylate particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from about 500 to about 1500 m 2 /g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 1200 m 2 /g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from about 1 to about 30 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 25 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 20 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 15 pm.
  • the specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer- Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 .
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the size of the silica silylate particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the silica silylate particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped (or tapped) density ranging from about 0.04 g/cm 3 to about 0.10 g/cm 3 ’ or alternatively from about 0.05 g/cm 3 to about 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density may be assessed according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder.
  • the tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm 3 and m in g).
  • the silica silylate particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume Sv ranging from about 5 to about 60 m 2 /cm 3 , or alternatively from about 10 to about 50 m 2 /cm 3 , or alternatively from about 15 to about 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • the silica silylate particles have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from about 5 to about 18 ml/g, or alternatively from about 6 to about 15 ml/g, or alternatively from about 8 to about 12 ml/g.
  • the oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. Wp is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022.
  • Wp corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:
  • An amount 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise.
  • mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed.
  • the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula.
  • the addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps.
  • the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the silica silylate according to the present invention is a hydrophobic silica aerogel.
  • hydrophobic silica means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silica silylate particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable
  • silica silylate may include, but are not limited to, the aerogels sold under the tradenames of VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) and VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), both available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan).
  • the particles of VM-2260 have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the particles of VM-2270 have a mean size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel may include, but is not limited to, the aerogels commercially available from Cabot Corporation (Billerica, Massachusetts) under the tradename of Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • the silica silylate is preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel.
  • the silica silylate is preferably present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 8% by weight and preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, and preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the cellulose used in the present invention is a natural fiber without derivation or chemical modifications, with an average size of 30pm.
  • the cellulose is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 9.5% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.15% to about 7% by weight, and most preferably about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the phase B of the present invention comprises water in an amount of about 60% or less, such as from about 60% to about 5% by weight, or about 50%, 40%, 45%, 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5% or less, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as inorganic and inorganic UV filters, coated pigments, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, surfactants, additional fillers, silicones, antioxidants, solvents, fatty compounds, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • cosmetically acceptable ingredient which may be chosen especially from such as inorganic and inorganic UV filters, coated pigments, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, surfactants, additional fillers, silicones, antioxidants, solvents, fatty compounds, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with silica such as the product, silica and iron oxide, silica and alumina, alumina such as the products, alumina and aluminum stearate, alumina and aluminum laurate, iron oxide and iron stearate, zinc oxide and zinc stearate, silica, alumina and silicone, silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and silicone, alumina and silicone, etc.
  • metal oxides may also be mentioned, especially titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the silica-coated equiponderous mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, as well as the alumina-silica- and silicone-coated mixture of titanium oxide and zinc dioxide, or the alumina-, silica- and glycerin-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide.
  • Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gum, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition may also comprise at least one silicon ingredient, which may be dimethicone and caprylyl methicone, among others.
  • Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
  • Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, polylactic acid, nylon-12, nylon-66, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, silica silylate, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.
  • mica, silica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, polylactic acid, nylon-12, nylon-66, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium si
  • Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, water, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent is present in a concentration from about 15 to 100% by weight, or from about 20 to about 85% by weight, or from about 30 to about 75% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 75% by weight, and more preferably from about 45 to about 75% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Exemplary of fat or oil materials include, but are not limited to, esters, fatty acids, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbons/paraffins, such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid, silicones mineral oil, Isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, T-butyl alcohol, plant/vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid, silicones mineral oil, Isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, T-butyl alcohol, plant/vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of modified starches according to the present invention are aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof.
  • vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
  • Suitable antioxidant of the present invention includes, but not limited to
  • surfactants of the present invention are stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, poloxamer 338 and sodium methyl stearoyl taurate.
  • silicones used in the composition of the present invention but not limited to are dimethicone and caprylyl methicone.
  • Exemplary of polymers include, but not limited to, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gam, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and styrene/acrylates copolymer.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from 60% to 85%, such as from 60% to 80% or such as from 65 to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • Suitable composition according to the present invention is as Example 1 .
  • Suitable comparative compositions of the state of the art are as examples 2 to 3, as follows:
  • compositions according to examples 1 to 3 were prepared according to the following steps: (a) preparing an oily phase (phase A) by mixing the UV filters, wherein the oily phase is heated until complete homogenization; and
  • step (b) adding an aqueous phase (phase B) to the oily phase of step (a) under mixing until complete formation of the emulsion, wherein the aqueous phase of step (b) is prepared by mixing water to the oily phase (a) and after a few minutes of agitation with shear leading to a tight emulsion add the silica silylate and cellulose.
  • the EX.1 presented higher soaping effect and tended to have a decrease of white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin.
  • EX. 1 showed a texture that leaves a decrease of white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin during application and results in a more natural look at the immediate effect.
  • EX. 1 makes the look with a decreased white film and with a more transparent appearance on the skin while the EX. 3 leaves a light white film on the surface of the skin.

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Abstract

La présente invention porte sur de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques présentant un SPF élevé, un capteur tactile sec et un film blanc réduit présentant un aspect plus transparent sur la peau, sur les utilisations de ladite composition cosmétique et sur un procédé de fabrication des compositions cosmétiques. Plus précisément, la présente invention porte sur de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques comprenant une combinaison d'une phase A comprenant un système de filtre UV organique et une phase B comprenant du silica silylate et de la cellulose. La composition de la présente invention est stable au fil du temps, présente également un niveau élevé de protection contre les UV afin de protéger la peau contre les dommages dus au soleil, présente une application facile, une bonne aptitude à l'étalement, moins de brillance, un toucher sec et un film blanc réduit présentant un aspect plus transparent lorsqu'elle est appliquée sur la peau.
EP19828194.1A 2019-12-19 2019-12-19 Composition cosmétique, procédé de fabrication de la composition cosmétique et utilisation de la composition cosmétique Pending EP4076347A1 (fr)

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US2463264A (en) 1942-12-23 1949-03-01 Ciba Ltd Derivatives of cyclic amidines and process of making same
US5240975A (en) 1988-04-11 1993-08-31 Ciba-Geigy Corporation Liquid substituted 2H-benzotriazole mixtures, stabilized compositions
US5237071A (en) 1991-01-22 1993-08-17 Fairmount Chemical Company, Inc. Process for preparing 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl phenols)
US5166355A (en) 1991-02-04 1992-11-24 Fairmount Chemical Co., Inc. Process for preparing substituted 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl-phenols]
FR2680683B1 (fr) 1991-08-29 1993-11-12 Oreal Composition cosmetique filtrante contenant un polymere filtre a structure hydrocarbonee et une silicone filtre.
DE59509233D1 (de) 1994-02-24 2001-06-13 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Kosmetische und dermatologische zubereitungen, enthaltend phenylen-1,4-bisbenzimidiazolesulfonsäuren
GB9515048D0 (en) 1995-07-22 1995-09-20 Ciba Geigy Ag Sunscreen compositions
DE19648798C2 (de) 1996-11-26 1998-11-19 Hoechst Ag Verfahren zur Herstellung von organisch modifizierten Aerogelen durch Oberflächenmodifikation des wäßrigen Gels (ohne vorherigen Lösungsmitteltausch) und anschließender Trocknung
DE19726184A1 (de) 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von Emulsionen, insbesondere O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen, mit einem Gehalt an lichtschutzwirksamen Benzotriazolderivaten
GB9715751D0 (en) 1997-07-26 1997-10-01 Ciba Geigy Ag Formulations
DE19855649A1 (de) 1998-12-03 2000-06-08 Basf Ag Dimere alpha-Alkyl-Styrolderivate als photostabile UV-Filter in kosmetischen und pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen
BR112016021875B1 (pt) * 2014-03-31 2020-09-29 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Composição tópica, uso de grânulos de sílica e método para reduzir a viscosidade de uma composição tópica compreendendo glicerina
FR3041273B1 (fr) * 2015-09-18 2017-10-13 Oreal Aerographe pour la pulverisation d'un produit solaire
WO2019036775A1 (fr) * 2017-08-25 2019-02-28 L'oreal Combinaison de copolymères triblocs non ioniques et de charges dans des compositions d'écran solaire, composition et leurs utilisations

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