WO2022020913A1 - Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre, procédé de fabrication de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et utilisation de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre - Google Patents

Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre, procédé de fabrication de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et utilisation de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022020913A1
WO2022020913A1 PCT/BR2020/050297 BR2020050297W WO2022020913A1 WO 2022020913 A1 WO2022020913 A1 WO 2022020913A1 BR 2020050297 W BR2020050297 W BR 2020050297W WO 2022020913 A1 WO2022020913 A1 WO 2022020913A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
anhydrous cosmetic
weight
cosmetic sunscreen
dimethicone
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PCT/BR2020/050297
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English (en)
Inventor
Beatriz TAVARES FERREIRA
Antoniela ZAMBON GARDOLINSKI
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/BR2020/050297 priority Critical patent/WO2022020913A1/fr
Priority to BR112022021303A priority patent/BR112022021303A2/pt
Priority to FR2009465A priority patent/FR3112945B1/fr
Publication of WO2022020913A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022020913A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to new anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions with high SPF, increased stability and sensorial behaviors similar to skincare sensorial allied with photoprotection, the uses of said anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions and a process of manufacturing the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions.
  • UVA/UVB sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
  • the degree of UV protection afforded by a sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA/UVB). Particularly, sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • sunscreen products may be in the form of lotions, milks, creams, gels, gel creams, foams, sprays and sticks.
  • Such products can be anhydrous or in the form of emulsions, generally containing sunscreen actives that are solubilized, emulsified, or dispersed in a vehicle, which is topically applied onto the skin.
  • the sunscreen actives typically through the aid of polymers and other ingredients included in the vehicle, form a thin, protective, and often water-resistant layer on the skin.
  • Silicones are commonly known in the cosmetic industry for providing increased sensorial behaviors, including in anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions.
  • the maximum concentration of silicones in an anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition are limited, due to its properties, thereby rendering the composition instable when high concentrations of silicone are applied.
  • another drawback regarding high contents of silicon on anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions are the fact that the compositions had a high tendency to UV filters crystallization.
  • anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions having higher concentrations of silicones, in order to enhance the skincare sensorial not available in the category of pure sunscreens yet.
  • the challenge of incorporating high concentrations of silicones in the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions is not only limited due to the nature of the silicones and the problem of UV filters crystallization, but there is also the challenge on formulating stable compositions while preserving satisfactory properties of the product, such as high SPF and dry touch to the skin after application combined with matt effect.
  • anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition that enables the high concentration of silicones by combining a specific blend of at least emollients and an UV filter system.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention having high concentration of silicone surprisingly showed an enhanced skincare sensorial, high SPF values, dry touch to the skin after application combined with matt effect and no white film formation.
  • the present invention is directed to new anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising (A) an UV filter system; (B) a blend of at least two emollients and (C) silicones.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention have a better stability, provides a high SPF, increased stability and sensorial behaviors similar to skincare sensorial allied with photoprotection.
  • anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention comprising:
  • (C) a silicone selected from the group of dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and poly dimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the invention presents a dry touch sensorial performance and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin, as well as a strong and robust stability of the composition over the time, even at high concentrations of UV filters.
  • the amount of the UV filter system in the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention is ranging from about 1% to 70% by weight and preferably from about 10% to about 60% by weight, and preferably from about 20% to about 45% by weight, including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of a blend of at least two emollients in the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention is ranging from about 10% by weight to about 40% by weight, even more preferably from about 12% by weight to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of silicone in the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the invention preferably ranges about 10% by weight to about 80% by weight, preferably from about 20% by weight to about 75% by weight, more preferably from about 30% by weight to about 70% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • (C) from 30% to 70% of silicone selected from the group of dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and poly dimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention present a SPF of 10 to 90, particularly 10, 30, 50, 60, 70 or 90.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions are able to support fillers without losing stability.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention present a high level of UV-protection in order to protect the skin from the damages of the sun, easy application, good spreadability, less shine, dry touch and a decreased white film with a more transparent appearance on the skin. Also, the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention is stable over the time and presents enhanced emulsion stability.
  • the present invention is related to the use of an anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions for manufacturing a product for preventing sunburn, which can be used as sunscreen daily product.
  • the present invention is also related to a process of manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition that provides to the consumers the properties described above.
  • a process of manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising:
  • an UV filter system comprising at least an organic filter, wherein the amount of the UV filter system ranges from 1% to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition;
  • step (b) adding the silicone(s) into the fusion obtained in step (a) in the reactor; (c) cooling the mixture.
  • the process of manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition comprises a further step (d):
  • the heating process on step (a) is in a range of 50 to 80°C.
  • the cooling process on step (c) is about 40°C.
  • the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • the amounts of the ingredients are based on the total weight of the composition.
  • anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention and the essential or optional components thereof, are substantially free of added or free water. From a formulation standpoint, this means that the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention contain less than about 5%, preferably less than about 3%, more preferably less than about 2% by weight, even more preferably less than about 1% by weight of free or added water.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention comprise an UV filter system, comprising at least an organic UV filter, selected from the group of: octocrylene; butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol; methoxyphenil triazine; drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate and ethylhexyl triazone; and mixtures thereof.
  • an organic UV filter selected from the group of: octocrylene; butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol; methoxyphenil triazine; drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate and ethylhexyl triazone; and mixtures thereof.
  • anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention may comprise UV filters selected from the group of inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention may comprises at least one inorganic UV filter. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.
  • the inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the inorganic UV filter is in some embodiments insoluble in solvents, such as water, and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.
  • the inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle such that the mean (primary) particle diameter thereof ranges from about 1 nm to about 50 nm, and in some embodiments from about 5 nm to about 40 nm, and in some embodiments from about 10 nm to about 30 nm.
  • the mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter here is an arithmetic mean diameter.
  • the inorganic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of silicon carbide, metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof.
  • the inorganic UV filters are selected from pigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally from about 5 nm to about 50 nm, and in some embodiments from about 10 nm to about 50 nm) formed of metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and/or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se.
  • the inorganic UV filters are selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and, in some embodiments, titanium oxide.
  • the inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated.
  • the inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating.
  • the coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes, such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds. It is in some embodiments desirable for the coating to include at least one organic UV filter.
  • a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H- Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-Tetramethyl-Butyl) Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol), such as marketed as "TINOSORB M" by BASF, may be desirable.
  • the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeated main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
  • silanes also encompasses silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
  • the silicones used for the coating(s) can be and in some embodiments are selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. And in some embodiments still, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
  • the inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfacing agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or their mixtures.
  • the coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical, and/or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes waxes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
  • the coated inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxides coated: with silica, such as the product “Sun veil” from Ikeda, and “Sunsil TIN 50” from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and with iron oxide, such as the product “Sunveil F” from Ikeda; with silica and with alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide, and “Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia; with alumina, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55 (A)” from Ishihara, and "UVT 14/4" from Kemira; with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01" from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W"
  • titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are, and in some embodiments T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "T 805" by Degussa Silices, T1O2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF TiCbSb" by Cardre, and anatase/rutile T1O2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Flydrophobic" by Color Techniques.
  • T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm such as that marketed under the trademark "
  • the following coated T1O2 can be used as the coated inorganic UV filter: Stearic acid (and) Aluminum Flydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-100 TV” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Flydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "S A-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Silica (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-100 WP" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-Y02" and “MT-Y-110 M3S" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 10 nm; Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) PO2, such as the
  • T1O2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is more desirable.
  • Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "HXMT-100ZA” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks "Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B", by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark “UFTR”, by Tomen under the trademark “ITS” and by Tioxide under the trademark "Tioveil AQ”.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the trademark “Z-cote” by Sunsmart; those marketed under the trademark “Nanox” by Elementis; and those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies.
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the trademark "Oxide Zinc CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the trademark “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nano oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "NFD Ultrafine ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with phosphate of perfiuoroalkyl and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in cyclopent
  • the uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ”, and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by Mitsubishi under the trademark "TY-220”.
  • the coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345”, and “Nanogard FE 45 BL”, or by BASF under the trademark “Oxyde de fer transparent”.
  • titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide including a mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silica and of cerium dioxide coated with silica, such as marketed by Ikeda under the trademark “Sunveil A”, and also a mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide coated with alumina, with silica and with silicone, such as the product “M 261” marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, with silica
  • Coated inorganic UV filters are desirable, because the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced.
  • the coating(s) may help uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions, according to the present invention.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions may comprise further organic UV filter. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV- A and/or UV-B region.
  • the organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the organic UV filter may be solid or liquid.
  • solid and liquid mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
  • the organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4- diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzano
  • Anthranilic compounds menthyl anthranilates, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • the dibenzoylmethane compounds Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • Cinnamic compounds Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2- ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
  • Salicylic compounds Homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), such as marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Homosalate homomentyl salicylate
  • ethylhexyl salicylate such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer
  • glycol salicylate butyloctyl salicylate
  • phenyl salicylate dipropyleneglycol salicylate
  • TEA salicylate
  • Camphor compounds in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, such as marketed under the trademark “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.
  • 3-benzylidene camphor such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD” by Chimex
  • 4- methylbenzylidene camphor such as
  • Benzophenone compounds Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2- hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); such as marketed under the trademark "Flelisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, such as marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (D
  • Triazine compounds Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, such as marketed under the trademark “Uvasorb FIEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone, such as marketed under the trademark «UVTNUL T150 » by BASF.
  • Benzotriazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2FI-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975.
  • Benzalmalonate compounds Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, such as marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Floffmann-LaRoche.
  • Benzimidazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, such as marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Imidazoline compounds Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • Bis-benzoazolyl compounds The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
  • Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • ethyl PABA Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA
  • pentyl dimethyl PABA ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
  • PEG-25 PABA such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25” by BASF.
  • Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], such as marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], such as marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos.
  • Drometrizole trisiloxane such as marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or- "Mexoryl XL” by L’Oreal.
  • Benzoxazole compounds 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]- 6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-
  • 1.3.5-triazine such as marketed under the trademark of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.
  • Screening polymers and screening silicones The silicones described in WO 93/04665.
  • Dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene The dimers described in DE-19855649.
  • 4,4- Diarylbutadiene compounds l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
  • the organic UV filter(s) be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4- piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethyl
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention comprises a blend of at least two emollients selected from the group consisting of diisopropyl diisopropyl sebacate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl adipate.
  • the amount of the blend of at least two emollients in the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention is preferably at least about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 10% by weight to about 40% by weight, even more preferably from about 10% by weight to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the invention comprise at least a silicone.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invent comprises at least on silicone selected from dimethicone, dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions may include an silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) bearing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, and mixtures thereof, other examples being given hereinbelow.
  • PDMSs volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions may also include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (8x10-6 m2/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicones for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (8x10-6 m2/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the invention may comprise a non-volatile oil.
  • silicone oils and non-volatile silicone oils for instance non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are on the side and/or at the ends of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof.
  • PDMSs non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl silicones for instance phenyl trimethicones, phen
  • anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as inorganic and inorganic UV filters, coated pigments, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, surfactants, additional fillers, silicones, antioxidants, solvents, fatty compounds, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient which may be chosen especially from such as inorganic and inorganic UV filters, coated pigments, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, vitamins, surfactants, additional fillers, silicones, antioxidants, solvents, fatty compounds, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with silica such as the product, silica and iron oxide, silica and alumina, alumina such as the products, alumina and aluminum stearate, alumina and aluminum laurate, iron oxide and iron stearate, zinc oxide and zinc stearate, silica, alumina and silicone, silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and silicone, alumina and silicone, etc.
  • metal oxides may also be mentioned, especially titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the silica-coated equiponderous mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, as well as the alumina-silica- and silicone-coated mixture of titanium oxide and zinc dioxide, or the alumina-, silica- and glycerin-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide.
  • Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gum, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions may also comprise at least one silicon ingredient, which may be dimethicone and caprylyl methicone, among others.
  • Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
  • Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, polylactic acid, nylon-12, nylon-66, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, silica silylate, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, silica silylate, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.
  • mica, silica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, polylactic acid, nylon-12, nylon-66, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicon
  • Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to water, alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, water, caprylyl glycol, 2-phenoxyethyl caprylate, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, dodecane, butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent is present in a concentration from about 0.1 to 95% by weight, or from about 20 to about 85% by weight, or from about 30 to about 75% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 75% by weight, and more preferably from about 45 to about 75% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Exemplary of fat or oil materials include, but are not limited to, esters, fatty acids, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbons/paraffins, such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid, silicones mineral oil, Isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, T-butyl alcohol, plant/vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters such as stearyl alcohol, myristic acid, palmitic acid, silicones mineral oil, Isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, T-butyl alcohol, plant/vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of modified starches according to the present invention are aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention includes tocopherol.
  • Suitable antioxidant of the present invention includes, but not limited to
  • surfactants of the present invention are stearic acid, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, poloxamer 338 and sodium methyl stearoyl taurate.
  • Exemplary of polymers include, but not limited to, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gam, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and styrene/acrylates copolymer.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from 0.1% to 85%, such as from 60% to 80% or such as from 65 to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • Suitable composition according to the present invention is as Example 1 and 2.
  • Suitable comparative compositions of the state of the art are as examples 3 to 7, as follows:
  • compositions according to Ex. 1 to 7 were prepared and the crystallization of UV filters was evaluated through microscope using polarized light in different temperature conditions considering the timepoints 1 week, 1 month and 2 months.
  • the Examples 3 to 7 showed a heavy crystallization of UV filters, which impacts directly in the SPF (making it lower) and sensorial (big crystals could be perceived by developers when trying the formula as an exfoliating effect).
  • Examples 1 and 2 which corresponds to the compositions according to the present invention, it was observed that no crystals or no evolution in few crystals were showed, and considering the UV filters system used (for SPF 50), a good SPF is expected.
  • composition Examples 1 to 7 were tested regarding stabilization. Stabilization in these cases refers to formula visual structure to the naked eye. On Examples 3 to 7, it was possible to note oil migration. On the contrary, in Examples 1 and 2 the structure remained intact through temperature study for 1 week, 1 month and 2 months’ time of analysis.
  • compositions of Examples 1 and 2 demonstrated that such association of ingredients provided a high SPF, better stability, sensorial behaviors similarly to skincare sensorial, and a final composition without UV filter crystallization, when compared to the Comparative Examples 3 to 7.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une nouvelle composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre qui fournit un facteur de protection solaire (FPS) élevé, une stabilité améliorée et des comportements sensoriels similaires à la perception sensorielle de la peau ainsi qu'une photoprotection, les utilisations de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et un procédé de fabrication de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre. Plus précisément, la nouvelle composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre comprend (A) un système de filtre UV ; (B) un mélange d'au moins deux émollients et (C) des silicones. La composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre de la présente invention est stable au fil du temps, fournit également un haut niveau de protection contre les UV afin de protéger la peau contre les dommages dus au soleil, une application facile, une aptitude à l'étalement satisfaisante, une brillance moindre, un toucher sec et un film blanc réduit ayant un aspect plus transparent lorsqu'elle est appliquée sur la peau.
PCT/BR2020/050297 2020-07-31 2020-07-31 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre, procédé de fabrication de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et utilisation de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre WO2022020913A1 (fr)

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PCT/BR2020/050297 WO2022020913A1 (fr) 2020-07-31 2020-07-31 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre, procédé de fabrication de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et utilisation de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre
BR112022021303A BR112022021303A2 (pt) 2020-07-31 2020-07-31 Composições cosméticas, processo de fabricação de uma composição cosmética e uso
FR2009465A FR3112945B1 (fr) 2020-07-31 2020-09-18 Composition d’ecran solaire cosmetique anhydre, processus de fabrication de la composition d’ecran solaire cosmetique anhydre et utilisation de la composition d’ecran solaire cosmetique anhydre

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WO1993004665A1 (fr) 1991-08-29 1993-03-18 L'oreal Composition cosmetique filtrante contenant un polymere filtre liposoluble a structure hydrocarbonee et une silicone filtre
US5237071A (en) 1991-01-22 1993-08-17 Fairmount Chemical Company, Inc. Process for preparing 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl phenols)
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EP2561853A1 (fr) * 2011-08-24 2013-02-27 PM-International AG Spray de protection solaire à niveau de protection solaire SPF 20 à SPF 30
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WO2020154779A1 (fr) * 2019-01-31 2020-08-06 L'oreal Compositions d'écran solaire, procédé de fabrication de la composition d'écran solaire, utilisation des compositions d'écran solaire et utilisation de cire de carnauba émulsifiée

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US5240975A (en) 1988-04-11 1993-08-31 Ciba-Geigy Corporation Liquid substituted 2H-benzotriazole mixtures, stabilized compositions
US5237071A (en) 1991-01-22 1993-08-17 Fairmount Chemical Company, Inc. Process for preparing 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl phenols)
US5166355A (en) 1991-02-04 1992-11-24 Fairmount Chemical Co., Inc. Process for preparing substituted 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl-phenols]
WO1993004665A1 (fr) 1991-08-29 1993-03-18 L'oreal Composition cosmetique filtrante contenant un polymere filtre liposoluble a structure hydrocarbonee et une silicone filtre
EP0669323A1 (fr) 1994-02-24 1995-08-30 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Utilisation de benzazolen comme absorbeurs d'UV nouveaux benzazoles et procédé pour les préparation
GB2303549A (en) 1995-07-22 1997-02-26 Ciba Geigy Ag Micronising organic UV absorbers with alkyl polyglucosides
DE19726184A1 (de) 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von Emulsionen, insbesondere O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen, mit einem Gehalt an lichtschutzwirksamen Benzotriazolderivaten
EP0893119A1 (fr) 1997-07-26 1999-01-27 Ciba SC Holding AG Formulation protectrice contre UV
DE19855649A1 (de) 1998-12-03 2000-06-08 Basf Ag Dimere alpha-Alkyl-Styrolderivate als photostabile UV-Filter in kosmetischen und pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen
WO2011061864A1 (fr) * 2009-11-20 2011-05-26 L'oreal Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique peu collante contenant un principe actif lipophile
EP2561853A1 (fr) * 2011-08-24 2013-02-27 PM-International AG Spray de protection solaire à niveau de protection solaire SPF 20 à SPF 30
US10105292B2 (en) * 2011-11-07 2018-10-23 L'oreal Composition with a continuous oil phase containing at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles
EP3357485A1 (fr) * 2015-09-30 2018-08-08 Shiseido Company Ltd. Cosmétique d'écran solaire
WO2017180567A1 (fr) * 2016-04-15 2017-10-19 Nusil Technology Llc Émulsion de silicone exempte d'agent tensioactif

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