WO2021119770A1 - Composition cosmétique pour une substance kératinique, procédé de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique et utilisation de la composition cosmétique - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour une substance kératinique, procédé de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique et utilisation de la composition cosmétique Download PDF

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WO2021119770A1
WO2021119770A1 PCT/BR2019/050547 BR2019050547W WO2021119770A1 WO 2021119770 A1 WO2021119770 A1 WO 2021119770A1 BR 2019050547 W BR2019050547 W BR 2019050547W WO 2021119770 A1 WO2021119770 A1 WO 2021119770A1
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composition
cosmetic composition
present
weight
range
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PCT/BR2019/050547
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English (en)
Inventor
Wagner PEREIRA
Angeles FONOLLA-MORENO
Lais Moreira LIMA
Pedro Tupinamba BARROSO
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L'oreal
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Priority to BR112022009155A priority Critical patent/BR112022009155A2/pt
Priority to PCT/BR2019/050547 priority patent/WO2021119770A1/fr
Publication of WO2021119770A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021119770A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising (a) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, (b) silica aerogel, and (c) an UV filter system, comprising at least one UV filter selected from octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof, being able to not only moisture a keratin substance, such as the skin of the face, but also to protect the skin against the harmful effects caused by UV radiation.
  • the present invention is also related to a process of manufacturing the cosmetic composition and its use.
  • the skin which is a protective and exchange barrier with the environment, is both strong and fragile, it may lose its suppleness and its capacity to retain water decreases, then causing skin dryness.
  • stratum corneum or corneal layer which is the outermost region of the epidermis, is most particularly involved in moisturizing the skin. Located at the interface with the external environment, its function is specially to delay excessive water loss arising from the deeper layers of the epidermis. The stratum corneum also protects against mechanical attack. It also constitutes the first line of defense against UV radiation.
  • the stratum corneum With a thickness of 10 pm, it is composed of vertically stacked corneocytes surrounded by a matrix of lipid-enriched membranes. Thus, it is a two- compartment system that may be compared to a wall of bricks, composed of anuclear cells (the "bricks") and of intercellular lamellar membranes (the “cement").
  • the stratum corneum performs its barrier function by opposing transcutaneous water loss. It thus efficiently contributes towards the moisturization of the skin via its capacity to take up and retain water, which is mainly located in the intercellular spaces.
  • UV light also contributes to aging by causing free radicals to form in the skin.
  • Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radical, the superoxide anion, nitric oxide and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids and proteins, generating carbon radicals. These in turn react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical that can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in loss of cell permeability, increased intercellular ionic concentration, and decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste products. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly referred to as photo-aging.
  • moisturizer products having a sun protection factor.
  • the inventors developed a cosmetic composition being able to not only moisture a keratin substance, such as the skin of the face, but also to protect the skin against the harmful effects caused by UV radiation.
  • the inventors surprisingly observed an improved effect of the specific mixture of ingredients (a) to (c) of the present cosmetic composition, which results in long lasting dry touch and matte effect on the formula, after its application.
  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising (a) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, (b) silica aerogel, and (c) an UV filter system, comprising at least one UV filter selected from octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the present invention is also related to a process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition and its use.
  • the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic composition for the manufacture of a product to be used as a moisturizer daily product with UV protection.
  • the cosmetic composition for the manufacture of a product to be used as a moisturizer daily product with UV protection.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
  • an UV filter system comprising at least one UV filter selected from octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a an improved effect of the specific mixture of ingredients (a) and (c) that was well demonstrated for the long lasting (> 4 hours) dry touch and Matte effect on the formula.
  • the Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is present in the range of from 1 .0 to 10.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .25 to 5.0 %, most preferably in an amount of from about 1 .5 to 2.5 %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the silica aerogel is present in the range of from 0.05 to 4.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.1 to 2.0 %, most preferably in an amount of from about 0.2 to 0.5 %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one UV filter from the UV filter system is a mixture of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, titanium dioxide.
  • the UV filter system is present in the range of from 5.0 to 20.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 7.5 to 17.5 %, most preferably in an amount of from about 10.0 to 14.0 %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • UV filter system is a mixture of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, titanium dioxide:
  • - octocrylene is present in the range of from 2.0 to 7.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 3.0 to 6.0 %, most preferably in an amount of from about 3.5 to 5.5 %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • - ethylhexyl salicylate is present in the range of from 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 2.5 to 5.0 %, most preferably in an amount of from about 4.0 to 5.0 %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • - titanium dioxide is present in the range of from 0.5 to 4.0 % by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 1 .0 to 3.0 %, most preferably in an amount of from about 1 .5 to 2.5 %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, buffering, masking and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention presents a Sun Protection Factor of at least 15, preferably at least 30.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion and can be used as a moisturizer daily product with UV protection.
  • O/W oil in water
  • the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • Cosmetically acceptable means that the item in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • cosmetically acceptable carrier means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • the “silica aerogel” according to the present invention is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • Silica aerogels are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2). This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • a supercritical fluid such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2).
  • the amount of silica aerogel in the anhydrous sunscreen composition of the present invention is at least about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from about 2% by weight to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 2% by weight to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from about 500 to about 1500 m 2 /g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 1200 m 2 /g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from about 1 to about 30 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 25 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 20 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 15 pm.
  • the specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer- Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 .
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the size of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped (or tapped) density ranging from about 0.04 g/cm 3 to about 0.10 g/cm 3 ’ or alternatively from about 0.05 g/cm 3 to about 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density may be assessed according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder.
  • the tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm 3 and m in g).
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume Sv ranging from about 5 to about 60 m 2 /cm 3 , or alternatively from about 10 to about 50 m 2 /cm 3 , or alternatively from about 15 to about 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • the silica aerogel particles have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from about 5 to about 18 ml/g, or alternatively from about 6 to about 15 ml/g, or alternatively from about 8 to about 12 ml/g.
  • the oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. Wp is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022.
  • Wp corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:
  • An amount 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise.
  • mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed.
  • the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula.
  • the addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps.
  • the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the aerogels used, according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • silylated silica preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • hydrophobic silica means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, is found in U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725, incorporated herein by reference.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.
  • Suitable examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels may include, but are not limited to, the aerogels sold under the tradenames of VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) and VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), both available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan).
  • the particles of VM-2260 have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the particles of VM-2270 have a mean size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel may include, but is not limited to, the aerogels commercially available from Cabot Corporation (Billerica, Massachusetts) under the tradename of Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • the silica aerogel is preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel, more preferably silica silylate.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention includes an UV filter system, comprising at least one UV filter selected from octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the UV filter system is a mixture of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate and titanium dioxide.
  • the composition, according to the present invention may include at least one additional UV filter.
  • the at least one additional UV filters is selected from homosalate, ethylhexyl triazone, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis- benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) stearic acid.
  • the additional UV filter can be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition, according to the present invention may comprise the additional UV filter(s) in an amount of from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and in some embodiments from 1 to 40% by weight, and in some embodiments from 2 to 30% by weight, based on to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may optionally comprise at least one additional UV filter selected from inorganic UV filters. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.
  • the inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the inorganic UV filter is in some embodiments insoluble in solvents, such as water, and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.
  • the inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle such that the mean (primary) particle diameter thereof ranges from 1 nm to 50 nm, and in some embodiments 5 nm to 40 nm, and in some embodiments 10 nm to 30 nm.
  • the mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter here is an arithmetic mean diameter.
  • the inorganic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of silicon carbide, metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof.
  • the inorganic UV filters are selected from pigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, and in some embodiments from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed of metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and/or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se.
  • the inorganic UV filters are selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide and, in some embodiments, titanium oxide.
  • the inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated.
  • the inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating.
  • the coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes, such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds. It is in some embodiments desirable for the coating to include at least one organic UV filter.
  • a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H- Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-Tetramethyl-Butyl) Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) marketed as "TINOSORB M" by BASF, may be desirable.
  • the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeated main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
  • silanes also encompasses silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
  • the silicones used for the coating(s) can be and in some embodiments are selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. And in some embodiments still, the silicones are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
  • the inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfacing agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or their mixtures.
  • the coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical, and/or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
  • the coated inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxides coated: with silica, such as the product “Sun veil” from Ikeda, and “Sunsil TIN 50” from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and with iron oxide, such as the product “Sunveil F” from Ikeda; with silica and with alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide, and “Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia; with alumina, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55 (A)” from Ishihara, and "UVT 14/4" from Kemira; with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01" from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W"
  • titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are, and in some embodiments T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "T 805" by Degussa Silices, T1O2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF TiCbSb" by Cardre, and anatase/rutile T1O2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Flydrophobic" by Color Techniques.
  • T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm such as that marketed under the trademark "
  • the following coated T1O2 can be used as the coated inorganic UV filter: Stearic acid (and) Aluminum Flydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "MT-100 TV” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "S A-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Silica (and) PO2, such as the product "MT-100 WP" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) PO2, such as the product "MT-Y02" and “MT-Y-110 M3S" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 10 nm; Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiC>2, such as the product "SA
  • T1O2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is more desirable.
  • Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) T1O2, such as the product "HXMT-100ZA” from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks "Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B", by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark “UFTR”, by Tomen under the trademark “ITS” and by Tioxide under the trademark "Tioveil AQ”.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark “Z-cote” by Sunsmart; those marketed under the trademark “Nanox” by Elementis; and those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies.
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark "Oxide Zinc CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the trademark “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nano oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "NFD Ultrafine ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with phosphate of perfiuoroalkyl and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in cyclopent
  • the uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ”, and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by Mitsubishi under the trademark "TY-220”.
  • the coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345", and “Nanogard FE 45 BL”, or by BASF under the trademark "Oxyde de fer transparent”.
  • Coated inorganic UV filters are desirable, because the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced.
  • the coating(s) may help uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition, according to the present invention.
  • composition may optionally comprise at least one additional UV filter selected from organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV- A and/or UV-B region.
  • the organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the organic UV filter may be solid or liquid.
  • solid and liquid mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
  • the organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4- diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptid
  • Anthranilic compounds Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Dibenzoylmethane compounds Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • Cinnamic compounds Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
  • Salicylic compounds Homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), marketed under the trademark “Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Camphor compounds in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the trademark “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.
  • Benzophenone compounds Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark “Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40” by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); marketed under the trademark "Flelisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone
  • b,b-Diphenylacrylate compounds Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark “Uvinul N539” by BASF; and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35” by BASF.
  • Triazine compounds Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the trademark “Uvasorb FIEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the trademark «UVTNUL T150 » by BASF.
  • Benzotriazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2FI-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975.
  • Benzalmalonate compounds Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Floffmann-LaRoche.
  • Benzimidazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Fleliopan AP” by Flaarmann and Reimer.
  • Imidazoline compounds Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • Bis-benzoazolyl compounds The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
  • Para- aminobenzoic acid compounds PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25” by BASF.
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • ethyl PABA Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA
  • pentyl dimethyl PABA ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
  • glyceryl PABA glyceryl PABA
  • PEG-25 PABA marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25” by BASF.
  • Methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2FI-benzotriazol-2-yl)- 4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos.
  • the organic UV filter(s) be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4- piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethyl
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, actives, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gum, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
  • An example of antioxidant is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.
  • Suitable fillers of the invention could be as examples of oil-absorbing fillers: mica, silica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.
  • mica, silica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza
  • Suitable solvents include, but are not limited alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
  • Exemplary of polymers include, but not limited to, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, xanthan gam, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and styrene/acrylates copolymer.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from 0.1 % to 20%, such as from 0.1% to 10% or such as from 0.1 to 8% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • Example 2 was applied in half of the face, leaving the other half bare, in order to compare the sensory attributes of the present invention, when compared to regular skin.
  • the product has a soft texture from the beginning to the end of the application and, at the end, leaves a powdery, velvety, slightly waxy film.
  • After the evaluation of the immediate effect (after 2 minutes), it was observed a visual matte effect, more homogeneous skin with slight disguise of enlarged pores and blackheads.
  • the final evaluation after the return (4 hours of the application) observed good durability of the matte effect, dry touch and softness of the skin, with a slight velvety feel.
  • inventive composition does not result in the formation of white film on the face, during and after its application.
  • the inventive composition has a very easy and pleasant application, brings softness to the skin without leaving it with a sticky touch, results in a more homogeneous look, with less evident pores and blackheads, and a more homogeneous skin.
  • a glass bottle and a plastic tube were filled with the composition according to Example 3. Both samples were analyzed one day after the fabrication (TO). The glass bottle and the plastic tube were placed in different ovens with different temperatures: 25°C, 4°C and 45°C. The samples were left in the ovens for a period of 1 month and then they are analyzed at 25°C. In an additional stage, the samples were placed again in the oven for 2 months and then they are analyzed at 25°C.
  • Example 1 In order to evaluate the beneficiales to the consumer of the present invention (Example 1 ), a test was performed, in which interviews were conducted with volunteers with oily skin and combination skin.
  • the product was given to the volunteers to test at home for a period of 15 days. After the trial period, the volunteers answered a form with questions about the formula performance.
  • the objectives of this study were to (a) verify the performance of the product in relation to the control of oiliness, matte effect and moisturizing, and to (b) verify the self-perception of the subjects of the research through a questionnaire including the following parameters: oiliness, shine and moisturizing, uniformity, anti imperfections, anti-stains.
  • the subjects of the studies were female, ages 19 to 65 years (average of 43 years), usual consumers of products of the same category and presenting mixed and oily skin on the face and dry skin on the forearm.
  • the subjects remained at rest in a room with temperature and relative humidity controlled for at least 30 minutes before the initial instrumental measurements and during the measurements.
  • the study was carried out during 28+-2 days, with 60 subjects for perceived performance and 29 subjects to instrumental performance.
  • the area of application of the product presented less oiliness than in the control area at times T6h, T 10h and T 12h, in relation to the time Timm.
  • the area of application of the product presented lower brightness than the control area at time T 12h, compared to the time Timm. There was no difference in the brightness increase in the comparison between the application area of the product and the control area at times T6h and T 10h, in relation to the time Timm.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprising the specific mixture of ingredients (a) to (c), a cosmetic composition of the state of the art was prepared, without ingredient (b) (silica aerogel).
  • compositions that do not comprise the specific mixture of ingredients (a) to (c) of the present invention, particularly without ingredient (b) in the formulation, demonstrate an inferior result compared to the inventive cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by any conventional method for manufacturing a composition in the form of an emulsion.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by a process comprising the steps of:

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Abstract

La présente invention est relative à une composition cosmétique comprenant (a) de la cire de Copernicia cerifera (carnauba), (b) de l'aérogel de silice, et (c) un système de filtre UV, comprenant au moins un filtre UV choisi parmi l'octocrylène, le salicylate d'éthylhexyle, le dioxyde de titane et leur mélanges, étant apte non seulement à humidifier une substance kératinique, telle que la peau du visage, mais également à protéger la peau contre les effets nocifs provoqués par un rayonnement UV. La présente invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication de la composition cosmétique et son utilisation.
PCT/BR2019/050547 2019-12-19 2019-12-19 Composition cosmétique pour une substance kératinique, procédé de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique et utilisation de la composition cosmétique WO2021119770A1 (fr)

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BR112022009155A BR112022009155A2 (pt) 2019-12-19 2019-12-19 Composição cosmética para uma substância queratínica, processo de fabricação de composições cosméticas e uso da composição cosmética
PCT/BR2019/050547 WO2021119770A1 (fr) 2019-12-19 2019-12-19 Composition cosmétique pour une substance kératinique, procédé de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique et utilisation de la composition cosmétique

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2024076655A1 (fr) * 2022-10-05 2024-04-11 L'oréal Composition cosmétique pour fond de teint mat

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US20160303031A1 (en) * 2013-12-03 2016-10-20 L'oreal Solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising uv-screening agents
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2024076655A1 (fr) * 2022-10-05 2024-04-11 L'oréal Composition cosmétique pour fond de teint mat

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