WO2022067403A1 - Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre, procédé de fabrication d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre - Google Patents

Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre, procédé de fabrication d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022067403A1
WO2022067403A1 PCT/BR2020/050391 BR2020050391W WO2022067403A1 WO 2022067403 A1 WO2022067403 A1 WO 2022067403A1 BR 2020050391 W BR2020050391 W BR 2020050391W WO 2022067403 A1 WO2022067403 A1 WO 2022067403A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
anhydrous cosmetic
total weight
cosmetic sunscreen
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/BR2020/050391
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Beatriz TAVARES FERREIRA
Pedro Tupinamba BARROSO
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/BR2020/050391 priority Critical patent/WO2022067403A1/fr
Priority to BR112023005402A priority patent/BR112023005402A2/pt
Priority to FR2011700A priority patent/FR3114499A1/fr
Publication of WO2022067403A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022067403A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to an anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition
  • an anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (A) at least one branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbon; (B) silica aerogel; (C) a blend of emollients; and (D) UV filters.
  • the present invention is also related to a process for manufacturing the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition and the use of the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition.
  • the inventors have identified a need for a cosmetic sunscreen composition having higher concentrations of silica aerogel in an anhydrous composition, preferably with a mousse-like texture, in order to enhance the aesthetic appeal.
  • the challenges of incorporating high concentrations of silica aerogel in the cosmetic sunscreen composition is not only limited due to the hydrophobic nature of the silica, but also to formulate stable compositions while preserving satisfactory properties of the product like high spreadability, high UV protection, light sensation, matte effect, mousse-like texture, primer like feeling and wrinkles filling impression when applied on the skin.
  • the at least one branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbon is present in the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition in an amount of about 5.0 to about 20.0% by weight, preferably from about 5.5 to about 15.0% by weight, from about 8.0 to about 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the isoalkanes are preferably selected from Cs to C30 isoalkanes, more preferably isododecane.
  • the silica aerogel is present in the anhydrous sunscreen cosmetic composition in an amount of about 1 .0 to about 15.0% by weight, preferably from about 4.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0 to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the blend of emollients is present in the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition in an amount of about 25.0 to about 55.0% by weight, preferably from about 28.0 to about 48.0% by weight, from about 30.0 to about 50.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the organic UV filters used in the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition are selected from the group of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, or a mixture thereof.
  • anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention may further comprise additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients present in an amount from about 0.1 % to about 50.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the film former is silicon.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 15.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 20.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 25.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 50.
  • the anhydrous cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 60.
  • step (C) adding the at least one branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbon to the mixture obtained from step (B);
  • step (F) homogenizing the mixture obtained from step (E);
  • the at least one branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbon according to the present invention is selected from isoalkanes or a mixture thereof.
  • the silica aerogel (e.g., hydrophobic silica aerogel particles) used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from about 500 to about 1500 m 2 /g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 1200 m 2 /g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from about 1 to about 30 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 25 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 20 pm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 15 pm.
  • the specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1.
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume Sv ranging from about 5 to about 60 m 2 /cm 3 , or alternatively from about 10 to about 50 m 2 /cm 3 , or alternatively from about 15 to about 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • Wp corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:
  • An amount 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isonanoate) is then added dropwise.
  • mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed.
  • the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula.
  • the addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps.
  • the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, is found in U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725, incorporated herein by reference.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.
  • Suitable examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels may include, but are not limited to, the aerogels sold under the tradenames of VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) and VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), both available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan).
  • the particles of VM-2260 have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the particles of VM-2270 have a mean size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the silica aerogel is present in the anhydrous sunscreen cosmetic composition in an amount of about 1 .0 to about 15.0% by weight, preferably from about 4.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0 to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Triazine compounds Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, such as marketed under the trademark “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone, such as marketed under the trademark «UVTNUL T150 >> by BASF.
  • Benzimidazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, such as marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Imidazoline compounds Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • Bis-benzoazolyl compounds The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
  • Methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], such as marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], such as marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos.
  • composition of the present invention may also include additional fatty compounds selected from oils, waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • additional fatty compounds selected from oils, waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non UV-absorbing fatty compounds do not appreciably absorb or scatter ultraviolet radiation. Accordingly, as used herein, the term “additional fatty compounds” does not include UV-filters described above described above.
  • Suitable non UV-absorbing fatty compounds include those suitable for providing emolliency to the skin.
  • Examples of such compounds generally insoluble in water and includes a hydrophobic moiety, such as one meeting one or more of the following three criteria: (a) has a carbon chain of at least six carbons in which none of the six carbons is a carbonyl carbon or has a hydrophilic moiety (defined below) bonded directly to it; (b) has two or more alkyl siloxy groups; or (c) has two or more oxypropylene groups in sequence.
  • the hydrophobic moiety may include linear, cyclic, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated groups.
  • the hydrophobic compound is in certain embodiments not amphiphilic and, as such, in this embodiment does not include hydrophilic moieties, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, or nonionic groups, that are polar, including sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, ammonium, including mono-, di-, and trialkylammonium species, pyridinium, imidazolinium, amidinium, poly(ethyleneiminium), ammonioalkylsulfonate, ammonioalkylcarboxylate, amphoacetate, and poly(ethyleneoxy)sulfonyl moieties.
  • the oil does not include hydroxyl moieties.
  • Suitable examples of compounds of oils include vegetable oils (glyceryl esters of fatty acids, monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides) and fatty esters.
  • Specific non-limiting examples include, without limitation, esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isonanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, caprylic/capric triglycerides, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, silicone oils (such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane), pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, and mineral oil.
  • esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isonanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, caprylic/capric triglycer
  • Suitable oils include volatile and/or non-volatile oils. Such oils can be any acceptable oil including but not limited to hydrocarbon oils.
  • the non UV-absorbing compound has a melting point of less than about 30°C.
  • the compositions are substantially free of waxes, e,g, non UV-absorbing fatty compounds that are solid at room temperature (about 25°C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e., 105 Pa), which undergo a reversible solid/liquid change of state and which have a melting point of greater than 30°C, and in some embodiments, greater than about 55°C. up to about 120°C, or even as high as about 200°C.
  • the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention includes an ester of sebacic acid.
  • a notable sebacic acid ester is a diester of isopropyl alcohol and sebacic acid i.e., diisopropyl sebacate.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/f rag rance, preservative agents, antioxidants, solvents, actives, vitamins, fillers, film formers, polymers, surfactants, fillers, pigments and mixtures thereof.
  • any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient which may be chosen especially from perfume/f rag rance, preservative agents, antioxidants, solvents, actives, vitamins, fillers, film formers, polymers, surfactants, fillers, pigments and mixtures thereof.
  • suitable filler according to the present invention is silica.
  • Non-limiting example of preservative agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of one or more preservative agent is from about 0.1 % by weight to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to alcohols, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, water, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of one or more solvent is from 0.1 % by weight to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol, wherein the amount of vitamin is from 0.1 % by weight to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, triethanolamine, caffeine, capryloyl salicylic acid, caprylyl methicone, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of actives is from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the additional ingredients may range from about 0.1 % to about 80.0%, such as from about 1 .0% to about 50.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the samples were applied in a specific amount on a plate; then, they were submitted to UV light radiation per 2 hours. After, the samples were extracted from the plate, and an HPLC analysis was performed to determine how much of the molecule of interest remains in the samples after irradiation.
  • composition according to Ex. 1 was applied in half face (0.200g), and the remaining half face was left bare (naked skin) (0.200g). Both halves were evaluated during the application, immediately after the application (immediate effect) and after 4 hours.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre comprenant (A) au moins un hydrocarbure aliphatique à chaîne ramifiée ; (B) un aérogel de silice ; (C) un mélange d'émollients ; et (D) des filtres UV. La présente invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et l'utilisation de la composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre.
PCT/BR2020/050391 2020-09-30 2020-09-30 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre, procédé de fabrication d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre WO2022067403A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/BR2020/050391 WO2022067403A1 (fr) 2020-09-30 2020-09-30 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre, procédé de fabrication d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre
BR112023005402A BR112023005402A2 (pt) 2020-09-30 2020-09-30 Composição de filtro solar cosmética anidra, processo para a fabricação de uma composição de filtro solar cosmética anidra e uso de uma composição de filtro solar cosmética anidra
FR2011700A FR3114499A1 (fr) 2020-09-30 2020-11-16 COMPOSITION D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE COSMéTIQUE ANHYDRE, Processus DE FABRICATION D’UNE COMPOSITION D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE COSMéTIQUE ANHYDRE ET UTILISATION D’UNE COMPOSITION D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE COSMéTIQUE ANHYDRE

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PCT/BR2020/050391 WO2022067403A1 (fr) 2020-09-30 2020-09-30 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre, procédé de fabrication d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique anhydre

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Citations (16)

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US5166355A (en) 1991-02-04 1992-11-24 Fairmount Chemical Co., Inc. Process for preparing substituted 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl-phenols]
WO1993004665A1 (fr) 1991-08-29 1993-03-18 L'oreal Composition cosmetique filtrante contenant un polymere filtre liposoluble a structure hydrocarbonee et une silicone filtre
US5237071A (en) 1991-01-22 1993-08-17 Fairmount Chemical Company, Inc. Process for preparing 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl phenols)
US5240975A (en) 1988-04-11 1993-08-31 Ciba-Geigy Corporation Liquid substituted 2H-benzotriazole mixtures, stabilized compositions
EP0669323A1 (fr) 1994-02-24 1995-08-30 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Utilisation de benzazolen comme absorbeurs d'UV nouveaux benzazoles et procédé pour les préparation
GB2303549A (en) 1995-07-22 1997-02-26 Ciba Geigy Ag Micronising organic UV absorbers with alkyl polyglucosides
DE19726184A1 (de) 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von Emulsionen, insbesondere O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen, mit einem Gehalt an lichtschutzwirksamen Benzotriazolderivaten
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US20150352035A1 (en) * 2014-06-04 2015-12-10 L'oreal High uv protection alcohol-free anhydrous clear system
US20180311141A1 (en) * 2015-09-10 2018-11-01 L'oreal Anhydrous screening composition comprising a silicone fatty phase

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BR112021012423A2 (pt) * 2019-03-29 2022-04-12 Oreal Composição de filtro solar anidro, processo de fabricação de composições de filtro solar anidro e uso da composição de filtro solar anidro

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US2463264A (en) 1942-12-23 1949-03-01 Ciba Ltd Derivatives of cyclic amidines and process of making same
US5240975A (en) 1988-04-11 1993-08-31 Ciba-Geigy Corporation Liquid substituted 2H-benzotriazole mixtures, stabilized compositions
US5237071A (en) 1991-01-22 1993-08-17 Fairmount Chemical Company, Inc. Process for preparing 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl phenols)
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WO1993004665A1 (fr) 1991-08-29 1993-03-18 L'oreal Composition cosmetique filtrante contenant un polymere filtre liposoluble a structure hydrocarbonee et une silicone filtre
EP0669323A1 (fr) 1994-02-24 1995-08-30 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Utilisation de benzazolen comme absorbeurs d'UV nouveaux benzazoles et procédé pour les préparation
GB2303549A (en) 1995-07-22 1997-02-26 Ciba Geigy Ag Micronising organic UV absorbers with alkyl polyglucosides
US7470725B2 (en) 1996-11-26 2008-12-30 Cabot Corporation Organically modified aerogels, processes for their preparation by surface modification of the aqueous gel, without prior solvent exchange, and subsequent drying, and their use
DE19726184A1 (de) 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von Emulsionen, insbesondere O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen, mit einem Gehalt an lichtschutzwirksamen Benzotriazolderivaten
EP0893119A1 (fr) 1997-07-26 1999-01-27 Ciba SC Holding AG Formulation protectrice contre UV
DE19855649A1 (de) 1998-12-03 2000-06-08 Basf Ag Dimere alpha-Alkyl-Styrolderivate als photostabile UV-Filter in kosmetischen und pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen
US20100111884A1 (en) * 2007-01-04 2010-05-06 Ciba Corporation Uv absorber formulations
US20140370062A1 (en) * 2011-11-07 2014-12-18 L'oreal Composition with a continuous oil phase containing at least one lipophilic organic uv-screening agent and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles
US20150272841A1 (en) * 2014-03-28 2015-10-01 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Method of making an anhydrous, pigmented composition
US20150352035A1 (en) * 2014-06-04 2015-12-10 L'oreal High uv protection alcohol-free anhydrous clear system
US20180311141A1 (en) * 2015-09-10 2018-11-01 L'oreal Anhydrous screening composition comprising a silicone fatty phase

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BRINKER, C.J.SCHERER, G.W.: "Sol-Gel Science", 1990, ACADEMIC PRESS
JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN CHEMICAL SOCIETY, vol. 60, February 1938 (1938-02-01), pages 309
VAN DE HULST, H.C.: "Light Scattering by Small Particles", 1957, WILEY

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