WO2024076655A1 - Composition cosmétique pour fond de teint mat - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour fond de teint mat Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024076655A1
WO2024076655A1 PCT/US2023/034501 US2023034501W WO2024076655A1 WO 2024076655 A1 WO2024076655 A1 WO 2024076655A1 US 2023034501 W US2023034501 W US 2023034501W WO 2024076655 A1 WO2024076655 A1 WO 2024076655A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
composition
weight
composition according
oil
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PCT/US2023/034501
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English (en)
Inventor
Sarah Kathryn YURO
Susan Ashley DESTENO
Marian M. GEORGES
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L'oréal
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Publication date
Priority claimed from US17/960,263 external-priority patent/US20240115477A1/en
Priority claimed from FR2300105A external-priority patent/FR3144757A1/fr
Application filed by L'oréal filed Critical L'oréal
Publication of WO2024076655A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024076655A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • a cosmetic composition that can be used as a foundation that can provide the characteristics required - a high degree of shine control, a matte finish, and a large depth and clarity of shade.
  • SPF a relatively high SPF
  • the cosmetic composition may also provide an optical blurring effect to minimize the appearance of pores, as well as shine control and skincare benefits over time to improve dryness, blemishes, and signs of aging.
  • the cosmetic composition for providing a matte foundation may include a mattifying filler, a colorant, a hydrocarbon-based oil, a hydrocarbon-based emulsifier, water, and UV filter system consisting of an organic hydrophobic UV filter, an organic water-soluble UV filter, and an inorganic UV filter.
  • the mattifying filler may consist of a silica aerogel and optionally a modified starch, amorphous silica, a clay, and/or a silicone elastomer.
  • the organic hydrophobic UV filter may consist of octyl salicylate, and the cosmetic composition may be LOREAL-14276 free of other organic hydrophobic ultraviolet filters.
  • the organic water-soluble ultraviolet filter may consist of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA), and the cosmetic composition may be free of other organic water-soluble ultraviolet filters.
  • the inorganic UV filter may consist of UV-grade titanium dioxide, and the cosmetic composition may be free of other inorganic ultraviolet filters.
  • the composition may be a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the inorganic ultraviolet filter may be present in an amount less than 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the inorganic ultraviolet filter may be present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition.
  • the mattifying filler may be present in an amount less than 10% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition may include a polyol. In some embodiments, the composition may include a non-volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the composition may include a vitamin. In some embodiments, the amount of the hydrocarbon-based oil plus the amount of the non-volatile silicone oil may be less than 30% by weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be free of volatile silicone oils. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in an amount less than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of less than 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may consist of one or more pigments, each pigment is preferably coated. In some embodiments, the one or more pigments comprises pigment-grade titanium dioxide.
  • the composition may include a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickening agent, a pH adjusting or buffering agent, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, and/or an amino acid or amino acid derivative.
  • the composition may include the mattifying filler, colorant, hydrocarbon-based oil, hydrocarbon-based emulsifier, water, and UV filter system, may optionally include a polyol, a non-volatile silicone oil, a vitamin, a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickening agent, a pH adjusting or buffering agent, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, and/or an amino acid or amino acid derivative, may be optionally free of a volatile silicone oil, and may be substantially free of all other materials.
  • a method may be provided for applying cosmetics to a face.
  • the method may include applying the cosmetic composition as disclosed herein to the face during a first period of time, and then removing the cosmetic composition from the face during a second period of time after the first period of time.
  • the method may include applying a second LOREAL-14276 composition over the cosmetic composition after the first period of time and before the second period of time.
  • a range from 1-5 includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as subranges such as and 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
  • the term “matte” as used herein refers to a non-shiny, non-glossy finish.
  • the term matte may be used to describe the finish provided by a composition to a substrate, such as rendering oily or combination skin matte, as well as to describe the finish of a composition on a substrate, such a matte film of lipstick on lips.
  • the degree of matteness of a composition can be measured using a gonioreflectometer to measure the reflection, R, of a composition, wherein R is the ratio of the specular reflection to the diffuse reflection.
  • R is less than 1.6.
  • the degree of matteness of a composition on a substrate is also measured using a gloss meter to measure the gloss of a film in terms of % reflectance, where lower reflectance has a higher degree of matteness.
  • reflectance may be 5% or less.
  • substantially free refers to a particular material that may be present at less than 1 wt% based on the total weight of the composition, and without materially affecting the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed invention.
  • the composition may contain less than 0.5 wt.%, less than 0.1 wt.%, less than 0.05 wt.%, or less than 0.01 wt.% of the specified material or be completely free of the specified material.
  • a cosmetic composition that can create a matte foundation may be provided. Mattifying Filler
  • the cosmetic composition may include a mattifying filler.
  • the mattifying filler may consist of a silica aerogel, and optionally a modified starch, amorphous silica, a clay, and/or a silicone elastomer.
  • the mattifying filler present may be present in the composition at no more than 15%, 12%, 10%, 9%, 8%, or 7% by weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of mattifying filler present in the composition is preferably no more than 7% by weight of the composition.
  • LOREAL-14276 Silica Aerogel The amount of silica aerogel present in the compositions will typically be at least 0.5%, or at least 0.6% , or at least 0.7% by weight of the composition. It will typically be at most 0.7%, or at most 0.8%, or at most 0.9% by weight of the composition.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO 2 .
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ m, preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ m, better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • the specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol.
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the size of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a specific surface area per unit of volume S V ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have an oil- absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 mL/g, preferably from 6 to 15 mL/g and better still from 8 to 12 mL/g.
  • the oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NFT 30-022.
  • It LOREAL-14276 corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point.
  • the silica aerogels may be hydrophobic silica aerogels, and may preferably be silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • silylated silica refers to any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • the silica aerogel may be hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silica aerogels include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 ⁇ m and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g; aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and AerogelTLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • the aerogel may be an aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 ⁇ m and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g. It has an oil absorption capability of 1090 mL/100 g based on isononyl isononanoate.
  • Modified Starch The amount of modified starch present in the compositions, if included, will typically be at least 0.5%, or at least 0.75% , or at least 1% by weight of the composition. It will typically be at most 1%, or at most 1.5%, or at most 2% by weight of the composition.
  • Modified starch is starch which has been modified by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking, or enzymatic conversion .
  • the modified starch may be a hydrophobically modified starch.
  • modified starch include octenyl succinate aluminum starch, octenyl succinate sodium starch, octenyl succinate calcium starch, diamidon phosphate, hydroxyethyl phosphate starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, and sodium starch glycolate.
  • the modified starch may be an octenylsuccinate of starch, in particular of aluminum, the starch being corn, wheat or rice. Mention may in particular be made LOREAL-14276 of the product offered by AKZO NOBEL under the name DRY FLO PLUS. We can also mention rice starch such as the product D.S.A.7 offered by the company Agrana Starch. Amorphous Silica.
  • the amount of modified starch present in the compositions, if included, will typically be at least 1%, or at least 2% , or at least 3% by weight of the composition. It will typically be at most 5%, or at most 7%, or at most 10% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention may be spherical amorphous silica.
  • spherical amorphous silica it is meant particulate silica which is substantially spherical.
  • the spherical amorphous silica may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • the spherical silica is a “native” silica, that is to say without hydrophobic surface treatment, and can have a chemical purity of at least 90%, such as at least 95% or at least 98% relative to silica.
  • the average size of these spherical amorphous silica particles is less than 15.0 microns and is more particularly in a range of 3 to 10 microns.
  • the spherical amorphous silica particles useful according to the invention are colorless or white solid particles of any shape, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of amorphous silica include porous silica microspheres sold as SilicaBeads SB-700 by Myoshi Company (average size 4.6 microns and oil absorption capacity Wp: 133 mL/100 g); Sunsphere® H51 (average size 5.1 microns and oil absorption capacity Wp: 133 mL/100 g), Sunsphere® H33 (average size 2.9 microns and oil absorption capacity Wp: 370 mL/ 100g) by Asahi Glass Company. Clay. The amount of clay present in the compositions, if included, will typically be relatively low, and will typically be at most 0.01% or at most 0.1% by weight of the composition.
  • Such clays may be either modified clays or natural clays, and are preferably non-swelling clays.
  • the clay may be, e.g., kaolin.
  • Silicone Elastomer The amount of silicone elastomer present in the compositions, if included, will typically be at least 0.5%, or at least 0.75% , or at least 1% by weight of the composition. It will typically be at most 1%, or at most 1.5%, or at most 2% by weight of the composition.
  • the silicone elastomer should be a mattifying silicone polymer.
  • the silicone elastomer may be a non-emulsifying silicon elastomer.
  • non-emulsifying refers to organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain hydrophilic chains, in particular LOREAL-14276 polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units.
  • the composition may include a silicone elastomer that is free of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.
  • Non-limiting of non-emulsifying elastomers are described in U.S. Pat. No.
  • the silicone elastomers may be in the form of a gel or a powder.
  • the silicone elastomer may be conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil.
  • silicone elastomers useful in this invention are dimethicone crosspolymer gels (blends of dimethicone crosspolymers in solvents) having viscosity values from about 150 and to about 700 mm 2 /s, from about 200 to about 650 mm 2 /s and from about 300 to about 600 mm 2 /s, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomeric gels include DC EL-8040 ID (INCI name: Isododecane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer) and DC EL-9140 DM (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) DimethiconeCrosspolymer), supplied by Dow Corning.
  • DC EL-8040 ID Isododecane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer
  • DC EL-9140 DM INCI name: Dimethicone (and) DimethiconeCrosspolymer
  • UV filter system may include a UV filter system,
  • UV filter system consists of an organic hydrophobic UV filter, an organic water-soluble UV filter, and an inorganic UV filter.
  • Such UV filters are active in the UVA and/or/ UVB wavelengths.
  • Organic hydrophobic UV filter may consist of octyl salicylate (also referred to as ethylhexyl salicylate).
  • the cosmetic composition may be free of other organic hydrophobic ultraviolet filters.
  • the organic hydrophobic UV filter will typically be present in an amount of no more than 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the organic hydrophobic UV filter will typically be present in an amount of 3-5% by weight of the composition.
  • Organic water-soluble UV filter is typically be present in an amount of no more than 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the organic water-soluble UV filter may consist of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA).
  • the cosmetic composition may be free of other organic water-soluble ultraviolet filters.
  • the organic water-soluble UV filter will typically be present in an amount of no more than 4% by weight of the composition.
  • the organic hydrophobic UV filter will typically be present in an amount of 2-4% by weight of the composition.
  • a ratio of the amount of organic hydrophobic UV filter to the amount of water-soluble UV filter will typically be 1.25:1 to 1.75:1.
  • the inorganic UV filter may consist of UV-grade titanium dioxide, and the cosmetic composition may be free of other inorganic ultraviolet filters.
  • UV-grade titanium dioxide generally has a relatively small particle size – typically having mean particle sizes of 250 nm or smaller, including 200 nm or smaller, and/or 150 nm or smaller. In some cases, the average particle size is around 130 nm.
  • the inorganic UV filter will typically be present in an amount less than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter may be present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter may be present in an amount less than the amount of either the organic hydrophobic UV filter or the organic water-soluble UV filter. In some embodiments, the inorganic ultraviolet filter may be present in an amount less than 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the inorganic ultraviolet filter may be present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition.
  • Colorant The cosmetic composition may include a colorant. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of less than 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of less than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition.
  • the colorant(s) may be selected from organic and/or inorganic colorants, in particular such as pigments or nacres conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water- soluble coloring agents, materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof. Pigments.
  • the colorant may include, or consist of, one or more pigments. Each pigment is preferably coated.
  • the one or more pigments comprises pigment-grade titanium dioxide.
  • Pigment-grade titanium dioxide generally has a larger particle size than LOREAL-14276 UV grade titanium dioxide – typically having mean particle sizes of 400 nm or larger, including 500 nm or larger, and/or 600 nm or larger.
  • the term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic, or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended for coloring and/or opacifying the resulting film.
  • the pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 30% by weight, such as from 1% to 30% by weight, or from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • inorganic pigments that can be used, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
  • the pigment may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type.
  • Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts and has a contrast ratio of around 30.
  • the colorant may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may, for example, be of the type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide.
  • An example of a pigment having this structure is sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • the coating may include alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, or pigment-grade titanium dioxide, and a hydrocarbon-based emulsifier as disclosed herein. In some embodiments, the coating may be present in a total amount of less than 1% by weight of the composition.
  • iron oxides When iron oxides are present, such iron oxides (i.e., excluding coatings) are present in a total amount of no more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxides (excluding coatings) are present in a total amount of no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxides (excluding coatings) are present in a total amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxides (excluding coatings) are present in a total amount of 1-1.5% by weight of the composition. LOREAL-14276 When pigment-grade titanium dioxide is present, such pigment-grade titanium dioxide (i.e., excluding coatings) may be present in a total amount of no more than 25% by weight of the composition.
  • such pigment-grade titanium dioxide may be present in a total amount of no more than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such pigment-grade titanium dioxide (excluding coatings) may be present in a total amount of 10-20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such pigment-grade titanium dioxide (excluding coatings) may be present in a total amount of 15- 20% by weight of the composition.
  • Nacres. The colorant may also include one or more nacres. The term “nacres” should be understood to mean iridescent or noniridescent colored particles of any shape, which are in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else are synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
  • the nacres may be selected from pearlescent pigments.
  • Such pigments may include natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite).
  • pearlescent pigments invention include white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof. This may also involve mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • pearlescent pigments are present, they are typically present in a total amount of no more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, pearlescent pigments are present in a total amount of no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, pearlescent pigments are present in a total amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition.
  • nacres available on the market mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres sold by the company Eckart and the synthetic-mica-based Sunshine nacres sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or glint.
  • golden nacres sold in particular by the LOREAL-14276 hcompany Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (
  • the colorant may also include water-soluble or liposoluble dyes.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soya oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
  • Material with a special optical effect is, for example, The colorant may also include at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different than a simple, conventional hue effect, i.e., a unified and stabilized effect of the kind produced by conventional colorants, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments.
  • the term “stabilized” signifies absence of an effect of variability of color with the angle of observation or else in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be selected from particles having a metallic glint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular of interference type.
  • these various materials LOREAL-14276 may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect.
  • the metallic-glint particles that can be used in the present disclosure are in particular selected from: (i) particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative; (ii) particles comprising a single-substance or multi-substance, organic or inorganic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one metal-glint layer comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and (iii) mixtures of such particles.
  • metal derivatives denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides, and sulfides.
  • Non-limiting examples of metals that may be present in such particles include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof, such as Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example, bronzes and brasses).
  • metals such as Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example, bronzes and brasses).
  • aluminum particles such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline and METALURE® by the company Eckart.
  • the particles in question may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine.
  • the goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal coloring agents.
  • symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in compositions prepared in accordance with the present disclosure are, for example, the following structures: Al/SiO2/Al/SiO2/Al, pigments having this structure being sold by the company Dupont de Nemours; Cr/MgF2/Al/MgF2/Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex; MoS2/SiO2/Al/SiO2/MoS2; Fe2O3/SiO2/Al/SiO2/Fe2O3 and Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS2/SiO2/mica- oxide/SiO2/MoS2; Fe2O3/SiO2/mica-oxide/SiO2/Fe2O3; TiO2/SiO2/TiO2 and TiO2/
  • these pigments may be the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer by the company Merck and the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Carribean Blue sold by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various layers, various effects are obtained.
  • the color changes from green-golden to red-gray for SiO2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.
  • pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure mention may be made of those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter.
  • liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles examples include those sold by the company Chenix, and also the product sold under the name HELICONE® HC by the company Wacker.
  • Hydrocarbon-based oil The cosmetic composition may include a hydrocarbon-based oil. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total amount no more than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total amount no more than 12% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total amount between 5% and 15% by weight. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in a total amount between 7% and 12% by weight.
  • oil means any fatty substance which is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • hydrocarbon-based oil or “hydrocarbon oil” refers to oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may be linear or branched.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil is a hydrocarbon.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils include oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), and isohexadecane.
  • LOREAL-14276 In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be apolar (therefore, formed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms). In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may contain from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may include hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides made up of fatty acid esters of glycerol, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths that vary from C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, alternatively, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, oil poppy oil, pumpkin oil, courgette oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may include linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane and liquid paraffins and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may include synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 , in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 +R 2 ⁇ 10, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- ethylhexyl, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates,
  • R 1
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may include fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing LOREAL-14276 from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-butyl octanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may include a C12-C22 fatty acid chain, such as those selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, etc., and mixtures thereof. Preferably these fatty acids chains are hydrogenated.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil relates to an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or a keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil(s) are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg).
  • the term “non-volatile” oil relates to oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fiber, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 10 ⁇ 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the composition may include no more than 10% by weight of C8-C16 alkanes and no more than 5% by weight of synthetic esters. Hydrocarbon-based emulsifier.
  • the composition may include one or more hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers.
  • the composition may include two or more hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the composition may include three or more hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the composition may include four or more hydrocarbon- based emulsifiers.
  • the hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers are typically present in a total amount no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers may be present in a total amount no more than 2.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers may be present in a total amount no more than 2% by weight of the composition.
  • the hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers are typically present in a total amount no less than 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers may be present in an amount of 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based emulsifiers may be present in an amount of 1% to 2% by weight of the composition.
  • the hydrocarbon-based emulsifier may include oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 20 to 1000 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially of C 8 -C 24 and preferably C 12 -C 18 alcohol), such as oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol ether containing 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name LOREAL-14276 Steareth-20) such as Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema, oxyethylenated cetearyl alcohol ether containing 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name Ceteareth-30) and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name C12-15 Pareth-7) sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals.
  • oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers which may comprise from 20
  • oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers are present, such are typically present in a total amount no more than 0.01%, 0.1%, or 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • the hydrocarbon-based emulsifier may include an amino acid surfactant.
  • Non-limiting examples of amino acid surfactants are salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof, and specifically, dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate,
  • the hydrocarbon-based emulsifier may include a polyol alkyl ester.
  • polyol alkyl esters include glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example the polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold under the name Lameform TGI by the company Cognis, LOREAL-14276 polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition may include water. Water will typically be present in an amount no more than 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount no more than 25% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount no more than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount no less than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of 15%- 25% by weight of the composition. Other Components.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more other components, including a polyol, a non-volatile silicone oil, a vitamin, a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickening agent, a pH adjusting or buffering agent, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, and/or an amino acid or amino acid derivative.
  • Polyol In some embodiments, the composition may include a polyol. In some embodiments, the polyol may be a hydrocarbon-based polyol. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount no more than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount no more than 12% by weight of the composition.
  • the polyol may be present in a total amount no more than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount less than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount between 5% and 9% by weight. In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of polyols present in a total amount greater than 1% by weight of the composition, and a plurality of polyols present in a total amount less than 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • the term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the polyol may be present in liquid form at room temperature.
  • the polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on each alkyl chain at least two —OH functions, in particular at least three —OH functions and more particularly at least four —OH functions.
  • the polyol may contain from 2 to 32 carbon atoms preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms and more preferably 2 to 16 carbon atoms, advantageously 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more advantageously 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may be a polyethylene glycol.
  • the polyol may be a polyhydric alcohol, preferably of C2-C8 and more preferably C3-C6.
  • Non-limiting examples of such include glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and diglycerol, ethylhexylglycerine, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di-C6
  • the composition may include a non-volatile silicone oil.
  • the term "silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.
  • the composition may include a plurality of non-volatile silicone oil.
  • the composition may include only two on-volatile silicone oils.
  • the non-volatile silicone oil may be present in a total amount no more than 20% by weight of the composition.
  • a first non-volatile silicone oil may be present in a total amount no less than 10% by weight of the composition (such as, e.g., PDMS), and a second non-volatile silicone oil (such as, e.g., an alkyl-dimethicone copolymer) may be present in a total amount no more than 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the hydrocarbon-based oil plus the amount of the non-volatile silicone oil may be less than 30% by weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may be free of volatile silicone oils.
  • the non-volatile silicone oils may be non-phenyl silicone oils.
  • non-phenyl silicone oil denotes a silicone oil not bearing any phenyl substituents.
  • Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils which may be mentioned include LOREAL-14276 polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinylmethyl methicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and/or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • the alkyl dimethicone may be an alkyl-dimethicone copolymer, such as Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone (which is more particularly an alkoxyl derivative of Lauryl Methicone containing on the average 18 moles of ethylene oxide and 18 moles of propylene oxide, sold under the name “Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by Dow Corning; cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (which is more particularly a copolymer of Cetyl Dimethicone and an alkoxyl derivative of dimethicone containing on the average 10 moles of ethylene oxide and 1 mole of propylene oxide) such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90 by Evonik Goldschmidt as well as the mixture of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, of polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by Evonik
  • the composition may include a vitamin. In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of vitamins. Such vitamins include materials having vitamin activity. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount no more than 2.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount no less than 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount no less than 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of 2%-2.5% by weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of such vitamins include Vitamin K, Vitamin B8, Vitamin B12, Thiamine riboflavin, Nicotinamide (also referred to as Niacinamide), Pantothenic acid, Pyridoxine and derivatives, biotin (vitamin B7), folic acid, cyanocobalamin, and Ascorbic acid. Vitamins include vitamin derivatives.
  • vitamin C ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and derivatives thereof, especially the phosphate derivatives thereof such as the potassium salt of di-alpha- tocopheryl diascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Roche under the reference Stay-C 50), and esters thereof such as ascorbyl acetate, palmitate and propionate; retinol (vitamin A) and derivatives thereof, especially esters thereof such as retinyl acetate, palmitate and propionate; as well as pantothenic acid (vitamin B) and derivatives thereof such as pantolactone, and D-panthenol.
  • phosphate derivatives thereof such as the potassium salt of di-alpha- tocopheryl diascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl
  • the composition may include a preservative.
  • the composition may include a plurality of preservatives.
  • the preservative may be present in an amount no more than 1.5% by weight of the composition.
  • preservatives include phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin. In some embodiments, the composition only includes a single silicone resin.
  • the term “resin” refers to a compound of which the structure is three-dimensional. As such, in terms of this invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
  • the silicone resin may be present in a total amount of no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone resin may be present in a total amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone resin may be present in a total amount of 1.5%-2.5% by weight of the composition.
  • the classification of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicon resins) is known under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described according to the various siloxane monomeric units comprised therein, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.
  • the “letter M” represents the Monofunctional unit having the formula R1R2R3SiO 1/2 , the silicon atom being bound to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
  • the letter “D” denotes a Difunctional unit R1R2SiO 2/2 wherein the silicon atom is bound to two oxygen atoms.
  • the letter “T” represents a Trifunctional unit having the formula R1SiO 3/2 .
  • Such resins are described for example in “Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol.15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p.265-270, and U.S. Pat. Nos.2,676,182, 3,627,851, 3,772,247, 5,248,739 or U.S. Pat.
  • Ri namely R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.
  • Q denotes a Tetrafunctional unit SiO 4/2 wherein the silicon atom is bound to four oxygen atoms in turn bound to the remainder of the polymer.
  • silicone resins having different properties may be obtained from these various units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of the Ri radical or radicals, the polymer chain length, the degree of branching and the pendant chain size.
  • the silicone resin may be of the MQ type, of the T type, or of the MQT type.
  • MQ Resins In terms of silicone resins of the MQ type, mention can be made of alkylsiloxysilicates having formula [(R1) 3 SiO 1/2 ] x (SiO 4/2 ) y (MQ units) wherein x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the R1 group is a radical such as defined hereinabove, and preferably is an alkyl group that has from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably, a methyl group.
  • One MQ resin may be a trimethylsiloxysilicate.
  • solid silicone resins of the MQ type of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type mention can be made of those sold under the reference SR1000 by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by Wacker, under the name “KF-7312J” by Shin-Etsu, “DC 749”, “DC 593” by Dow Corning.
  • phenylalkylesiloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in U.S. Pat. No.5,817,302.
  • T Resins As examples of silicone resins of the T type, mention can be made of polysilsesquioxanes having formula (RSiO3/2)x (T units) wherein x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes can furthermore include Si-OH terminal groups. Mention can also be made of polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes wherein none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described for example in the document U.S. Pat. No.5,246,694.
  • polymethylsilsesquioxane resins can be used wherein R is a methyl group, such as for example those sold by Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CH3SiO3/2 repetitive units (T units), that may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO2/2 units (D units) and having a mean molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g/mol, or by Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L consisting of T units having the formula CH 3 SiO 3/2 and having Si-OH (silanol) terminal groups, under the reference KR-242A comprising 98% T units and 2% D dimethyl units and having Si-OH terminal units or under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% T units and 12% D dimethyl units and having Si-OH terminal groups.
  • Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CH3SiO3/2 repetitive units (T units), that may also comprise up to 1% by
  • MQT Resins As a resin comprising MQT patterns, those mentioned in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,110,890 are known. A preferred form of resins of the MQT type are the MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application US 8,124,710, of which the content is incorporated here by reference.
  • the siloxane resins can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a method comprising the reaction of: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80% in moles of units (R1 3 SiO 1/2 ) a and (SiO4/2) d , R1 being an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl LOREAL-14276 group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, with the a/d ration being between 0.5 and 1.5; and of B) a propyl T resin comprising at least 80% in moles of units (R3SiO 3/2 ) c , R3 being an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, c is greater than zero, with the condition that at least 40% in moles of the R3 groups are propyl groups, where the A/B mass ratio is comprised between 95:5 and 15:85,
  • the A/B mass ration is between 95:5 and 15:85.
  • the A/B ratio is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have shown to allow for comfortable deposits.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises, as a silicone resin, at least one resin of the MQ type such as described hereinabove.
  • the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, more preferably a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
  • Thickening Agent In some embodiments, the composition may include a thickening agent. In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of thickening agents. In some embodiments, the thickening agent is present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition is substantially free of a thickening agent.
  • the composition is free of a thickening agent.
  • the thickening agent may be selected from organic and inorganic thickeners.
  • organic thickeners include: (i) associative thickeners; (ii) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers; (iii) crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (C1- C6)alkyl acrylate; (iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one of ethylenically unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers; and (v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide.
  • the expression “associative thickener” means an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit. pH adjusting or buffering agent.
  • the composition may include a pH adjusting and/or buffering agent.
  • LOREAL-14276 pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodium metasilicate, silicate compounds, citric acid, ascorbic acid, and carbonate compounds, and sodium hydroxide.
  • Non-limiting examples of buffering agents include an acetate buffer (for example, acetic acid+sodium acetate), a phosphate buffer (for example, sodium dihydrogen phosphate+di-sodium hydrogen phosphate), a citrate buffer (for example, citric acid+sodium citrate), a borate buffer (for example, boric acid+sodium borate), a tartrate buffer (for example, tartaric acid+sodium tartrate dihydrate), Tris buffer (for example, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane), or a Hepes buffer (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1- piperazineethanesulfonic acid).
  • acetate buffer for example, acetic acid+sodium acetate
  • a phosphate buffer for example, sodium dihydrogen phosphate+di-sodium hydrogen phosphate
  • a citrate buffer for example, citric acid+sodium citrate
  • a borate buffer for example, boric acid+sodium
  • the thickening agent is present in an amount less than 3% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition is substantially free of both a pH adjuster and buffering agent.
  • the pH adjuster and buffering agent may be present in a total amount of 0.001-0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • Electrolyte In some embodiments, the composition may include an electrolyte. In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of electrolytes. In some embodiments, the composition may only include a single electrolyte. The electrolyte may be present in a total amount no more than 2%, no more than 1.5%, or no more than 1% by weight of the composition.
  • the at least one electrolyte present in the composition can be chosen from, for example, alkali metal salts, for instance sodium chloride, potassium chloride or potassium sulfate. Flavonoid.
  • the composition may include a flavonoid. The flavonoid may be present in a total amount less than 0.1%, less than 0.01%, less than 0.001%, or less than 0.0001% by weight of the composition.
  • the flavonoid may be a flavanone (derivative of 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one) such flavanones include: Butin, Eriodictyol, Hesperetin, Hesperidin, Homoeriodictyol, Isosakuranetin, Naringenin, Naringin, Pinocembrin, Poncirin, Sakuranetin, Sakuranin, and Sterubin.
  • the flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derivative of 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2- phenylchromen-4-one); such flavanols include: Taxifolin, Aromadedrin, Chrysandroside A, Chrysandroside B, Xeractinol, Astilbin, and Fustin.
  • the flavonoid may be a flavone (derivative of 2-phenylchromen-4-one); such flavones include: Apigenin, Luteolin, Tangeritin, Chrysin, Baicalein, Scutellarein, Wogonin, Synthetic Flavones: Diosmin, and Flavoxate.
  • the flavonoid may be a flavonol (derivative of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one); such flavonols include: LOREAL-14276 3-Hydroxyflavone, Azaleatin, Fisetin, Galangin, Gossypetin, Kaempferide, Kaempferol, Isorhamnetin, Morin, Myricetin, Natsudaidain, Pachypodol, Quercetin, Rhamnazin, Rhamnetin, Azalein, Hyperoside, Isoquercitin, Kaempferitrin, Myricitrin, Quercitrin, Robinin, Rutin, Spiraeoside, Xanthorhamnin, Amurensin, Icariin, and Troxerutin.
  • flavonols include: LOREAL-14276 3-Hydroxyflavone, Azaleatin, Fisetin, Galangin, Gossy
  • the composition may include a synthetic peptide.
  • the synthetic peptide may be present in a total amount less than 0.1%, less than 0.01%, less than 0.001%, or less than 0.0001% by weight of the composition.
  • such synthetic peptides include iamin, the biopeptide CL, or various palmitoyl peptides, such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1 or palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
  • Amino Acid or Amino Acid Derivative may include an amino acid or amino acid derivative.
  • the composition may include an amino acid or amino acid derivative.
  • the amino acid or amino acid derivative may be present in a total amount less than 0.5%, or less than 0.1% by weight of the composition.
  • one amino acid that may be used is adenosine.
  • adenosine derivatives that may in particular be mentioned are non-phosphated adenosine derivatives such as: 2′-deoxyadenosine; 2′,3′-isopropoylidene adenosine; toyocamycin; 1-methyladenosine; N- 6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide; 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside; or 6-chloropurine riboside.
  • adenosine derivatives comprise agonists of adenosine receptors including phenylisopropyl-adenosine (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N-6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6- phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy- ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5′-N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (CGS-21680), N- ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5′ (N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129,944) and
  • adenosine derivatives include compounds that increase the intracellular concentration of adenosine, such as erythro-9-(2-hydroxy-3-nonyl) adenine (“EHNA”) or iodotubercidine. Still more adenosine derivatives include salts and alkyl esters.
  • EHNA erythro-9-(2-hydroxy-3-nonyl) adenine
  • iodotubercidine iodotubercidine.
  • Still more adenosine derivatives include salts and alkyl esters.
  • the composition may include the mattifying filler, colorant, hydrocarbon-based oil, hydrocarbon-based emulsifier, water, and UV filter system, may optionally include a polyol, a non-volatile silicone oil, a vitamin, a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickening agent, a pH adjusting or buffering agent, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, and/or an amino acid or amino acid derivative, may be free of a volatile silicone oil, and may be substantially free of all other materials.
  • LOREAL-14276 Antioxidant may include an antioxidant.
  • the composition may include a plurality of antioxidants.
  • the composition may include only a single antioxidant.
  • the antioxidant may be present in a total amount less than 0.5%, or less than 0.2% by weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of antioxidants include polyphenols, tannic acid, epigallocatechins and the natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, pentaerythrityl tetra- di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, rosemary extracts, lens esculenta (lentil) seed extract, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its compounds, pycnogenol, ergothineine, N- acetylcysteine, idebenone, plant extracts such as PRONALEN BIOPROTECTTM extracts from Provital, co-enzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, and gluthatione.
  • the composition may include certain active materials. In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of active materials. In some embodiments, the composition may include only a single active material. The active material may be present in a total amount less than 0.5%, or less than 0.25% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the active material may include a derivative of hyaluronic acid, such as sodium hyaluronate. In some embodiments, the derivative of hyaluronic acid may be present in a total amount less than 0.2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the derivative of hyaluronic acid may be present in a total amount no more than 0.1% by weight of the composition.
  • the derivative of hyaluronic acid may be present in a total amount of 0.05-0.15% by weight of the composition.
  • the active material may include a chelating agent.
  • the composition may include a plurality of chelating agents.
  • the composition may include only a single chelating agent.
  • the chelating agent may be present in a total amount less than 0.2% by weight of the composition.
  • the chelating agent may be present in a total amount of 0.05-0.15% by weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of a chelating agent include aminocarboxylic acids (i.e.
  • acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group
  • phytic acid diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as LOREAL-14276 Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine-N,N′- diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N′-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2- hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N′-bis(ortho- hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N′-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N′- diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (DTA), methylglycine diace
  • the active material may be an active ester or derivative thereof.
  • the active ester or derivative may be present in a total amount less than 0.1%, less than 0.01%, less than 0.001%, or less than 0.0001% by weight of the composition.
  • Active esters are well known in peptide synthesis and refer to certain esters that are easily reacted with an amine of an amino acid under conditions commonly used in peptide synthesis.
  • One common active ester is N-Hydroxysuccinimide, and a commonly used form of that active ester is the N- hydroxysuccinimidyl (NHS) ester.
  • the composition may include the mattifying filler, colorant, hydrocarbon-based oil, hydrocarbon-based emulsifier, water, and UV filter system, may optionally include a polyol, a non-volatile silicone oil, a vitamin, a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickening agent, a pH adjusting or buffering agent, and an electrolyte, may be free of a volatile silicone oil, and may be substantially free of all other materials.
  • the composition may include the mattifying filler, colorant, hydrocarbon-based oil, hydrocarbon-based emulsifier, water, and UV filter system, may optionally include a polyol, a non-volatile silicone oil, a vitamin, a preservative, a silicone resin, a thickening agent, a pH adjusting or buffering agent, an electrolyte, a flavonoid, a synthetic peptide, an antioxidant, an active material, and/or an amino acid or amino acid derivative, may be free of a volatile silicone oil, and may be substantially free of all other materials.
  • Example An inventive example such as that shown in Table 1, below, can be created by first mixing the oils, oil-soluble ingredients, and the inorganic UV filter in a container, then mixing the water and water-soluble ingredients in a separate container, then while homogenizing, combining the two phases, and then adding the mattifying fillers and colorants.
  • Table 1 Material % by Weight (Active Basis) Silica Aerogel 0.5-1% LOREAL-14276
  • the above formulas can provide all day matte finish and shine control, as well an optical blurring effect to minimize the appearance of pores and skin texture. Over time, the above formulas also improve dryness, skin tone and texture, pore appearance, appearance of blemishes, and visible signs of aging.
  • a method may be provided for applying cosmetics to a face.
  • the method may include applying the cosmetic composition as disclosed herein to the face during a first period of time, and then removing the cosmetic composition from the face during a second period of time after the first period of time.
  • the method may include applying a second composition over the cosmetic composition after the first period of time and before the second period of time.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique permettant d'obtenir un fond de teint mat, qui comprend une charge matifiante, un colorant, une huile à base d'hydrocarbures, un émulsifiant à base d'hydrocarbures, de l'eau et un système de filtre UV composé d'un filtre UV organique hydrophobe, d'un filtre UV organique hydrosoluble et d'un filtre UV inorganique. La charge matifiante peut être constituée d'un aérogel de silice et éventuellement d'un amidon modifié, de silice amorphe, d'une argile et/ou d'un élastomère de silicone. Le filtre UV hydrophobe organique peut être constitué de salicylate d'octyle, et la composition cosmétique peut être exempte d'autres filtres ultraviolets hydrophobes organiques. Le filtre ultraviolet organique hydrosoluble peut être constitué d'acide 2-phénylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonique (PBSA), et la composition cosmétique peut être exempte d'autres filtres ultraviolets organiques hydrosolubles. Le filtre UV inorganique peut être constitué de dioxyde de titane de qualité UV, et la composition cosmétique peut être exempte d'autres filtres ultraviolets inorganiques.
PCT/US2023/034501 2022-10-05 2023-10-05 Composition cosmétique pour fond de teint mat WO2024076655A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US17/960,263 2022-10-05
US17/960,263 US20240115477A1 (en) 2022-10-05 2022-10-05 Cosmetic composition for a matte foundation
FR2300105A FR3144757A1 (fr) 2023-01-05 2023-01-05 Composition cosmétique pour un fond de teint mat
FR2300105 2023-01-05

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EP3185843B1 (fr) * 2014-08-28 2021-08-11 L'Oréal Composition gel/gel comprenant un filtre uv
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