EP4015662A1 - Piece d horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or - Google Patents

Piece d horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4015662A1
EP4015662A1 EP20215708.7A EP20215708A EP4015662A1 EP 4015662 A1 EP4015662 A1 EP 4015662A1 EP 20215708 A EP20215708 A EP 20215708A EP 4015662 A1 EP4015662 A1 EP 4015662A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gold
alloy
weight
palladium
silver
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP20215708.7A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Denis Vincent
Stéphane Lauper
Gregory Kissling
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Omega SA
Original Assignee
Omega SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Omega SA filed Critical Omega SA
Priority to EP20215708.7A priority Critical patent/EP4015662A1/fr
Priority to PCT/EP2021/070732 priority patent/WO2022128178A1/fr
Priority to JP2023536392A priority patent/JP2024500709A/ja
Priority to CN202180082098.8A priority patent/CN116528718A/zh
Priority to US18/252,144 priority patent/US20230407438A1/en
Priority to EP21749798.1A priority patent/EP4263890A1/fr
Publication of EP4015662A1 publication Critical patent/EP4015662A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C22—METALLURGY; FERROUS OR NON-FERROUS ALLOYS; TREATMENT OF ALLOYS OR NON-FERROUS METALS
    • C22C—ALLOYS
    • C22C5/00—Alloys based on noble metals
    • C22C5/02—Alloys based on gold
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/002—Metallic materials
    • A44C27/003—Metallic alloys
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00—Cases
    • G04B37/22—Materials or processes of manufacturing pocket watch or wrist watch cases

Definitions

  • the invention also relates to a timepiece, piece of jewelery or jewelery made from this gold alloy.
  • the object of the present invention is to develop a gold alloy having the same bronze hue as that of the 9 carat gold alloy of the prior art with improved resistance to tarnishing.
  • the gold alloy thus developed is an 18 carat alloy comprising silver, palladium and copper.
  • the gold alloy comprises by weight between 73% and 77% gold, between 5% and 11% silver, between 1% and 7% palladium and between 10% and 18% copper.
  • the invention relates to a gold alloy consisting by weight of 73% to 77% gold, 5% to 11% silver, 1% to 7% palladium, 10% to 18% copper and from 0 to 0.05% of one or more elements chosen from iridium, rhenium and ruthenium.
  • the present invention also relates to the timepiece, piece of jewelery or jewelery made from this alloy.
  • timepieces, jewelery or jewelery parts made with this alloy have improved resistance to tarnishing over time compared to parts made with the aforementioned 9-carat alloy. They also have improved resistance to tarnishing compared to parts made with other 18-karat alloys.
  • the 9 carat alloy according to the prior art and the 18 carat alloy according to the present invention have an eye-like hue.
  • the present invention relates to an 18 carat gold alloy more particularly intended for an application in the field of watchmaking, jewelery or jewellery. It thus also relates to timepieces, jewelery or jewelery made in this alloy.
  • timepieces means both exterior components such as a middle part, a case back, a bezel, a pusher, a bracelet link, a dial, a hand, a dial index, etc., and movement components such as a plate, a bridge or a balance wheel.
  • the timepiece is a caseband 1 as shown in figure 1 .
  • the gold alloy according to the invention comprising by weight between 73% and 77% gold, between 5% and 11% silver, between 1% and 7% palladium and between 10% and 18% copper .
  • This alloy is nickel, cobalt, iron and manganese free.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 73.5% and 77% gold, between 5.5% and 11% silver, between 1.5% and 7% palladium and between 11% and 18% copper.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 73.5% and 76.5% gold, between 5.5% and 10% silver, between 1.5% and 6.5% palladium and between 11% and 16% copper.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises between 74% and 76.5% gold, between 6% and 10% silver, between 2% and 6.5% palladium and between 12% and 16% copper.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 74% and 76% gold, between 6% and 9.5% silver, between 2% and 6% palladium and between 12% and 15.5 % of copper.
  • the gold-based alloy comprises by weight between 0 and 0.05% (limits included) of one or more elements chosen from iridium, rhenium and ruthenium, the 0-0.05% range covering the total percentage of or these elements.
  • the alloy comprises by weight 0.0025% iridium.
  • the various elements of the composition are melted before being cast.
  • the casting ingot is then deformed with a work hardening rate greater than or equal to 75% divided into several passes with intermediate annealing carried out in a range of temperatures between 550°C and 750°C, for a time between 5 minutes and 30 minutes.
  • the samples are annealed at a temperature of 650° C. for 30 minutes.
  • the blanks are dimensioned, for example, by machining.
  • the alloys obtained after deformation and annealing have in the CIELAB colorimetric space (in accordance with CIE n°15, ISO 7724/1, DIN 5033 Part 7, ASTM E-1164 standards) an a* value of between 3 and 9, preferably between 5.5 and 8, and a b* value between 12 and 18, preferably between 14 and 17, the a* and b* values together defining the shade of the alloy. They also have an L value between 80 and 90, the La*b* values together defining the color of the alloy. According to the present invention, the emphasis is placed more specifically on the a* and b* values which define the shade of the alloy.
  • These alloys have a hardness of between 140 and 185 HV1, preferably between 155 and 180 HV1.
  • Table 1 shows the composition by weight of a reference 9 carat gold alloy from the application EP 19193469 and five 18-carat gold alloys according to the invention.
  • the colorimetric values and the hardness (HV1) measured are also presented in Table 1.
  • the colorimetric L*a*b* values were measured with a KONICA MINOLTA CM-2600d spectrophotometer with illuminant D65 and an observation angle of 10 °.
  • the Delta E and Delta C values respectively represent the color variation and the chromatic variation with respect to at the 9K benchmark.
  • a* and b* are very close with, for a*, values between 6.4 and 7.8 for a reference value of 6.7 and with, for b*, values between 14.7 and 16.4 with a value of reference of 15.
  • the reference and the gold alloys according to the invention have the same bronze tint.
  • the tarnishing assessment was performed visually after exposure to ambient air for several days.
  • the 18-carat gold alloys according to the invention maintain their beautiful bronze color without tarnishing, unlike the 9-carat gold alloy according to the prior art, which tarnishes noticeably.
  • the alloys according to the invention have a hardness HV1 in the annealed state of between 158 and 175 allowing them to be easily deformed.
  • the new gold alloy thus has a beautiful bronze tint with less tarnishing over time.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
EP20215708.7A 2020-12-18 2020-12-18 Piece d horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or Withdrawn EP4015662A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20215708.7A EP4015662A1 (fr) 2020-12-18 2020-12-18 Piece d horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or
PCT/EP2021/070732 WO2022128178A1 (fr) 2020-12-18 2021-07-23 Piece d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or
JP2023536392A JP2024500709A (ja) 2020-12-18 2021-07-23 金で作られた計時器、宝石又はジェムストーンジュエリ
CN202180082098.8A CN116528718A (zh) 2020-12-18 2021-07-23 由金制成的钟表、装饰件或珠宝物品
US18/252,144 US20230407438A1 (en) 2020-12-18 2021-07-23 Timepiece, piece of jewellery or gemstone jewellery made of gold
EP21749798.1A EP4263890A1 (fr) 2020-12-18 2021-07-23 Piece d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20215708.7A EP4015662A1 (fr) 2020-12-18 2020-12-18 Piece d horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4015662A1 true EP4015662A1 (fr) 2022-06-22

Family

ID=73855933

Family Applications (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP20215708.7A Withdrawn EP4015662A1 (fr) 2020-12-18 2020-12-18 Piece d horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or
EP21749798.1A Pending EP4263890A1 (fr) 2020-12-18 2021-07-23 Piece d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or

Family Applications After (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP21749798.1A Pending EP4263890A1 (fr) 2020-12-18 2021-07-23 Piece d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en or

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20230407438A1 (ja)
EP (2) EP4015662A1 (ja)
JP (1) JP2024500709A (ja)
CN (1) CN116528718A (ja)
WO (1) WO2022128178A1 (ja)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150071814A1 (en) * 2013-09-10 2015-03-12 Apple Inc. Crystalline gold alloys with improved hardness
US20190368005A1 (en) * 2018-06-01 2019-12-05 Omega Sa Timepiece or piece of jewellery or gemstone jewellery made of gold
CH715061A2 (fr) * 2018-06-01 2019-12-13 Omega Sa Pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en alliage d'or.
CH715203A1 (fr) * 2018-07-26 2020-01-31 Px Services Sa Alliage à base d'or présentant un changement de couleur et son utilisation dans le domaine de la joaillerie et de l'horlogerie.

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107604195A (zh) * 2011-11-08 2018-01-19 斯沃奇集团研究和开发有限公司 金制钟表或首饰

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150071814A1 (en) * 2013-09-10 2015-03-12 Apple Inc. Crystalline gold alloys with improved hardness
US20190368005A1 (en) * 2018-06-01 2019-12-05 Omega Sa Timepiece or piece of jewellery or gemstone jewellery made of gold
CH715061A2 (fr) * 2018-06-01 2019-12-13 Omega Sa Pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en alliage d'or.
CH715203A1 (fr) * 2018-07-26 2020-01-31 Px Services Sa Alliage à base d'or présentant un changement de couleur et son utilisation dans le domaine de la joaillerie et de l'horlogerie.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2022128178A1 (fr) 2022-06-23
JP2024500709A (ja) 2024-01-10
CN116528718A (zh) 2023-08-01
EP4263890A1 (fr) 2023-10-25
US20230407438A1 (en) 2023-12-21

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