EP4001484B1 - Élément tricoté double face comprenant des fils fonctionnels en charge, tige de chaussure et une chaussure avec ledit élément tricoté - Google Patents

Élément tricoté double face comprenant des fils fonctionnels en charge, tige de chaussure et une chaussure avec ledit élément tricoté Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4001484B1
EP4001484B1 EP21208263.0A EP21208263A EP4001484B1 EP 4001484 B1 EP4001484 B1 EP 4001484B1 EP 21208263 A EP21208263 A EP 21208263A EP 4001484 B1 EP4001484 B1 EP 4001484B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
layer
knitted element
stitches
tuck
Prior art date
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Application number
EP21208263.0A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP4001484A1 (fr
Inventor
Florin Filipescu
Florian POEGL
Matthias LINZ
Florian GODENBERG
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Adidas AG
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Adidas AG
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Publication of EP4001484A1 publication Critical patent/EP4001484A1/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/123—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with laid-in unlooped yarn, e.g. fleece fabrics
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
    • A43B1/02—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
    • A43B1/04—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/025—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by stitching
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/026—Laminated layers
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2101/00—Inorganic fibres
    • D10B2101/20—Metallic fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041—Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/023—Fabric with at least two, predominantly unlinked, knitted or woven plies interlaced with each other at spaced locations or linked to a common internal co-extensive yarn system
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D10B2501/043—Footwear

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a double knitted element, in particular a sports article, and to a method of manufacturing such a double knitted element.
  • stiffness is usually achieved by plating a melting yarn together with a base yarn (e.g. polyester) or just mixing melting yarns with the base yarn into the same yarn feeder.
  • a base yarn e.g. polyester
  • TPU thermoplastic polyurethane
  • hybrid yarns which represent a mixture of polyester and melting yarn.
  • stretch, recovery or compression properties are usually achieved by in-laying covered elastic yarns, by plating or mixing spandex yarns together with the base yarn (e.g. natural fiber, artificial, synthetic) directly into the feeder or by knitting covered elastic yarns.
  • Tucked-in yarns are usually used on a single layer knit base, for example in fleece fabrics. In these fabrics, the yarns that are too thick for regular knitting and are thus inserted into the fabric by tucking. Furthermore, an elastic yarn may be used as inlay or even in a tuck-float structure for sock knitting, but this use is only known for a single jersey or a single knit layer.
  • the present invention deals with various problems to be solved.
  • the melting yarn follows the same knitting sequence as the base yarn. Further, the amount of melting yarn is difficult to control as it depends on the knitting structure. In addition, if the melting yarn is only needed on one side of the fabric, then the knitting sequence needs to be modified accordingly, which results in a different visual appearance or property of the fabric.
  • the melting yarn is mixed together with the base yarn it is impossible to control which of the two yarns will show up on the surface of the fabric.
  • Plating the melting yarn can improve this shortcoming, but it is usually difficult or time consuming to set it up on the knitting machine. In particular, plating is usually difficult to adjust on the knitting machine.
  • the in-laid yarn is just a long float inside the double layer knit.
  • the problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a knit fabric and a respective manufacturing method to achieve enhanced functional properties in the knit fabric.
  • US 2017/ 0 029 989 A1 relates to textile constructions formed with fusible filaments.
  • the document is directed to a textile construct wherein thermoplastic yarns or fibers are melted to form a fused film on one side or layer of the construct while another side or layer is maintained in a discrete knitted structure.
  • the fused film may provide a membrane side or layer that has desired attributes, such as one or more of waterproofness, water resistance, wind resistance, and breathability.
  • DE 10 2016 005593 relates to a forming fabric having a first cover layer and a second cover layer.
  • a filling layer is arranged between the first and the second cover layer), which is carried by one without pulling inserted filler thread.
  • WO 2015/011148 A1 relates to a shoe having an upper which is made of a three-dimensional knitted fabric, which at least partially comprises two knitted knitted-fabric layers connected to each other, wherein at least one of the two knitted-fabric layers of the upper is at least partially knitted by means of a rubber-elastic thread.
  • WO 2020/081133 A1 relates to a knitted component including a first knit layer of a first yarn and a second knit layer of a second yarn.
  • the second knit layer and the first knit layer are at least partially coextensive with each other and form a pocket between the first and second knit layers.
  • a third yarn is at least partially positioned within the pocket and between the first and second knit layer.
  • the third yarn is secured to the first knit layer at a first location within the pocket and to the second knit layer at a second location within the pocket.
  • the pocket forms a raised structure when the knitted component is subjected to a stimulus.
  • WO 2019/197319 A1 relates to a weft-knitted spacer fabric consisting of an upper surface layer, intermediate spacer yarns, and a lower surface layer.
  • the upper surface and the lower surface layer are connected by the tuck of the spacer yarns in the upper surface and the lower surface layer to form a three-dimensional structure in an integrated manner.
  • the different selected tuck needle changes the connecting distance and the number of connections of the tuck, and the thickness of the spacer fabric and the arrangement density of the spacer yarns are changed by the action of the upper and lower surface layers of elastic yarns.
  • the above problem is solved by a double layer knitted element, in particular for a sports article.
  • the double layer knitted element comprises a first layer comprising a first yarn, a second layer comprising a second yarn and a third yarn arranged at least in part between the first and second layer, wherein the third yarn is attached to one of the first and second layer by a plurality of tuck stitches, wherein there is at least one miss stitch between two successive tuck stitches of the third yarn.
  • the third yarn is locked to the fabric because of the tucks.
  • inlay strands are free floating inside the double layer fabric and could be removed from the knitted fabric if pulled.
  • the third yarn is independent of the main knitting structure and does not influence it, but further enhances the properties of the knit.
  • the tuck stitches that are visible on the surface of one of the knitted layers are minimalistic so they do not significantly affect the surface finish of that knitted layer.
  • additional protection of the third yarn is provided. This means that yarns that would fail testing (abrasion, color migration etc.) could be still tucked in and provide extra function to a double layer knitted element.
  • the third yarn of the double knitted element comprises a functional yarn.
  • the use of a functional yarn as the third yarn allows to create functional properties in the knit independent of the knitting sequence.
  • the first yarn of the first layer and the second yarn of the second layer may be a same type of yarn but it can also be two different types of yarns.
  • the functional yarn is a melting yarn, thermoplastic polyurethane, TPU, yarn, or a hybrid yarn representing a mixture of polyester and melting yarn.
  • the double layer knitted element can be provided with different properties, depending on the functionality of the yarn.
  • stretch, recovery or compression properties of the double layer knitted element can be influenced by using an elastic yarn as a functional yarn.
  • stiffness can be achieved by using melting yarn, TPU yarn or hybrid yarn as a functional yarn.
  • melting or TPU functional yarns can be used to stiffen the heel and toe cap areas of an upper, wherein elastic functional yarns can be used to create stretch or recovery in the instep area or in the collar of a fabric.
  • using elastomeric material generates reinforced areas after an application of heat.
  • the third yarn is attached to only one of the first and second layer by tuck stitches in the respective layer.
  • the third yarn When the third yarn is attached to only one of the first or second layer by using tuck stitches, the third yarn is not visible at the respective other layer. Thus, the appearance of the top of the one layer is kept as it is, wherein desired functional properties are provided by the third yarn.
  • the tuck stitches that are visible on the surface of one of the knitted layers are minimalistic, so they do not significantly affect the surface finish of that knitted layer.
  • the third yarn is more or less independent of the main knitting structure and does not influence it. Rather, the tuck stitches that are visible on the surface of one of the knitted layers are minimalistic, so they do not significantly affect the surface finish of that knitted layer, at the same time the surface finish of the other knitted layer is completely unaffected.
  • a melting yarn is provided between the first and second layer and attached only to one layer, it is possible to activate the melting yarn only on the inner side of one of the two layers. For example, if the melting yarn is connected (tucked) to the back side layer, after thermal activation, the melting yarn will be absorbed mostly by the back side layer, but the external side of the front layer may not show any traces of the melting yarn. Thus, further post processes can be applied to the top side of the fabric, without using / reactivating the melted yarn.
  • the third yarn may be attached to one of the first and the second layer by successive tuck stitches.
  • a ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of miss stitches may be variable within a course or a row.
  • the amount of support in a respective area of the double layer knitted element can be engineered by the tuck-miss ratio. More tucks close to one another will add more yarn in the respective area. Changing the tuck-miss ratio of the third yarn in different areas can provide different stretch or stiffness properties. In contrast to that, an inlay strand would have the same property along its width.
  • the ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of miss stitches can be at least one of 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3.
  • One miss stitch means one needle is skipped in the needle bed and the third yarn is floated over that one needle between two tuck stitches.
  • a tuck-miss ratio of 1:2 for example means that two needles are skipped and the third yarn is floated over that two needles between two tuck stitches.
  • the support of a double layer knitted element can be engineered by the tuck-miss ratio. More tucks close one to another provides a higher amount of the third yarn. Thus, a tuck-miss ratio of 1:1 provides a higher support than 1:2, wherein 1:2 provides a higher support than 1:3 and so on.
  • a distance between two successive tuck stitches may be less than 2.54 cm.
  • 2.54 cm of a needle bed of a knitting machine corresponds to 14 needles on a gauge 14 machine or 7 needles on a gauge 7 machine, wherein the gauge of a knitting machine corresponds to the number of needles in 2.54 cm (one inch).
  • the gauge of a knitting machine corresponds to the number of needles in 2.54 cm (one inch).
  • floats are usually kept shorter than 2.54 cm. If the floats are longer, there is the risk that the needles are not catching the yarn.
  • the first yarn of the first layer may be attached to the second layer, and/or the second yarn of the second layer may be attached to the first layer by tuck or loop stitches.
  • the third yarn may be knitted at least twice in between two knitting rows. In other words, there are at least two courses of the third yarn knitted in between two knitting rows.
  • an increased support may be provided by keeping the same tuck-miss ratio but knitting the third yarn multiple times in between two knitting rows.
  • knitting the third yarn several times between two knitting rows can be used to increase the stiffness in a particular area of a fabric (for example in the heel of an upper).
  • the third yarn may be partially knitted in between two knitting rows.
  • Partially knitting allows that the third yarn is provided in a different amount in different areas of the double layer knitting element.
  • the third yarn is partially knitted multiple times in between two knitting rows.
  • different support may be provided in different areas, depending on the amount of the third yarn.
  • the provided support of a certain area or zone can be engineered by keeping the same tuck-miss ratio but partially knitting the third yarn one or multiple times in a certain area.
  • partially knitting the third yarn is technically easier compared to an inlay strand. The reason is that the third yarn is connected by tuck to the fabric and it will not jump out when the knitting direction is changed.
  • the thickness of the third yarn may vary within the knitted element.
  • the support of the double layer knitted element can also be influenced.
  • the third yarn may be provided in repetitive structures, jacquard structures or in spacer-based structures.
  • structures like repetitive structures, jacquard structures or spacer-based structures may be engineered by using a functional yarn, wherein the appearance of at least one layer of the structures remains the same.
  • the element may be manufactured by intarsia, interlock, plating, inverted plating, and/or inlay techniques.
  • a further aspect of the present invention is directed to an upper for a shoe, in particular a sports shoe, comprising a double layer knitted element as described herein.
  • a further aspect of the present invention is directed to a shoe, in particular a sports shoe, comprising an upper as described herein, i.e. with a knitted element according to the invention, and a sole attached to the upper.
  • an upper or a shoe which comprise the previously described beneficial properties of the double layer knitted element.
  • a method of manufacturing a double layer knitted element in accordance with one of the previous aspects comprises the steps of providing a first layer comprising a first yarn, providing a second layer comprising a second yarn and arranging a third yarn at least in part between the first and second layer, wherein the third yarn is attached to only one of the first and second layer by a plurality of tuck stitches, wherein there is at least one miss stitch between two successive tuck stitches of the third yarn.
  • the present invention can also be used otherwise, e.g. the invention can be used for a shoe upper, clothing or accessories where various functional properties like stiffness, elasticity, stretch, recovery or compression without influencing the appearance are required.
  • a third tucked-in yarn enables that a double knitted element comprises desired functional properties while it still has an uninfluenced outward appearance.
  • the various functional properties comprise stiffness, elasticity, stretch, recovery or compression, for example. The techniques used in order to achieve such properties or functions will be described in the following.
  • the described techniques include suitable knitting techniques comprising different combinations of the number of tuck and miss stitches of the third yarn, as well as the selection of fibers and yarns.
  • Figs. 1A-C show knitting schemes of a double layer knitted structure, wherein the dots represent the needle positions of a knitting machine in a knitting row.
  • the knitting scheme of Figs. 1A-C comprises two lines of needles provided within a row.
  • Fig. 1A illustrates a first layer 100 (e.g. the front layer) comprising a first yarn 110, a second layer 200 (e.g. the back layer) comprising a second yarn 210, and a third yarn 310 arranged at least in part between the first layer 100 and the second 200 layer, wherein the third yarn 310 is attached to the second 200 layer by a plurality of tuck stitches 311.
  • the third yarn 310 may be attached to the first layer 100 by a plurality of tuck stitches.
  • the ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of miss stitches, which corresponds to the tuck-miss ratio is 1:1.
  • the main double layer knit structure is independent of the tucked-in yarn.
  • the tucked-in yarn is an addition to the existing structure and is sandwiched in between the two layers.
  • Fig. 1A illustrates that the third yarn 310 is only attached to the second layer 200 by immediately successive tuck stitches 311, wherein the third yarn 310 is not attached to the first layer 100.
  • stiffness when using melt or TPU yarns as the third yarn 310, stiffness can be applied to only one of the two layers.
  • stiffness is achieved within the fabric without affecting its external appearance.
  • the first 110 and second 210 yarns may be different.
  • first 110 and second 210 yarns may be equal.
  • the first layer 100 is connected to the second layer 200 by tuck stitches.
  • Fig. 1B illustrates a section of a front layer 100 of an exemplary double knitted element comprising a first yarn 110
  • Fig. 1C illustrates a section of a back layer 200 comprising a second yarn 210.
  • a melting yarn 310 is connected (tucked) to the back layer 200.
  • the melting yarn 310 is absorbed mostly by the back layer 200 (a bit also by the inner side of the front layer 100) after thermal activation.
  • the external side of the front layer 100 does not present melting yarn 310, as shown in Fig. 1B .
  • further post processes can be applied to the front side of the fabric, without using or reactivating the melted yarn 310 underneath the front layer 100.
  • the first yarn 110 of the front layer 100 may be attached to the back layer 200 by tuck or loop stitches.
  • the third yarn is locked to the fabric because of the tucks.
  • inlay strands would be free floating inside the double layer fabric and could be removed from the knitted fabric if pulled.
  • the third yarn comprises a functional yarn.
  • the functional yarn is at least one of a melting yarn, thermoplastic polyurethane, TPU, yarn, hybrid yarn.
  • applications of knitting a conductive yarn could be heating certain parts of the upper or for transferring electricity to led lights in the upper or tooling, wherein wool yarns can heat up the upper and cotton yarns can absorb moisture.
  • Fig. 2 shows an exemplary embodiment wherein the third yarn 310a can be tucked in the first layer 100, i.e. on the front stitches from row 110, in a first knitting step and the third yarn 310b can be tucked in the second layer 200, i.e. on the back stitches from the previous row 210, not shown here, in a second knitting step by immediately successive tuck stitches.
  • Figs. 3A and 3B illustrate knitting schemes, having different ratios between the number of tuck stitches and the number of miss stitches of the third yarn 310.
  • FIG. 3A there are two miss stitches 312 between two successive tuck stitches 311 of the third yarn 310, wherein the ratio between the number of tuck stitches 311 and the number of miss stitches 312 is 1:2.
  • Fig. 3B shows a knitting scheme, with three miss stitches 312 between two successive tuck stitches 311 of the third yarn 310, wherein the ratio between the number of tuck stitches 311 and the number of miss stitches 312 is 1:3.
  • the support (with respect to stiffness or stretch properties) of a double layer knitted element can be engineered by the tuck-miss ratio. More tucks close one to another provide a higher amount of the third yarn 310. Thus, a tuck-miss ratio of 1:1 provides a higher support than 1:2, wherein 1:2 provides a higher support compared to 1:3 and so on.
  • a distance between two successive tuck stitches may be less than 2.54 cm (one inch).
  • 2.54 cm of the needle bed of a knitting machine corresponds to 14 needles on a gauge 14 machine or 7 needles on a gauge 7 machine, wherein the gauge of a knitting machine corresponds to the number of needles in 2.54 cm which corresponds to 1 inch.
  • floats are usually kept shorter than 2.54 cm. If the floats are longer, there is the risk that the needles are not catching the yarn.
  • Figs. 3A and 3B provide examples, wherein the first layer 100 is attached to the second layer 200 by loop stitches.
  • the third yarn 310 is only attached to the second layer 200 by immediately successive tuck stitches 311 to the second layer 200, i.e. there are no tuck stitches of the third yarn 310 in the first layer 100.
  • the third yarn is attached to at least one of the first and the second layer by tuck stitches.
  • the third yarn 310 may be tucked to the first layer 100 and the second layer 200.
  • the third yarn may be tucked to only the first layer by immediately successive tuck stitches.
  • Fig. 4 illustrates another embodiment, wherein the third yarn 310 is knitted at least twice in between two knitting rows.
  • the third yarn 310 is knitted in between two knitting rows.
  • the third yarn 310 is knitted in a first knitting sequence 301 (for example tuck-miss going to right) and in a second knitting sequence 302 (miss-tuck going to the left), which increases the support of the third yarn 310 on the double layer knitted element.
  • Knitting the third yarn 310 several times in between two knitting rows can be used for example to increase the stiffness of a fabric.
  • the amount of support can also be engineered by using finer or thicker yarns (150 den to 900 den). For a melt yarn even 2,000 den and for sock knit even more is possible. In particular, higher denier means thicker yarns.
  • Fig. 4 provides an example, wherein the first layer 100 is attached to the second layer 200 by loop stitches.
  • the third yarn 310 is only attached to the second layer 200 by immediately successive tuck stitches 311 to the second layer 200 and not to the first layer.
  • the third yarn 310 may be tucked only to the first layer 100, or tucked to the first layer 100 and the second layer 200 by using tuck stitches.
  • the third yarn is independent of and can be combined with all double knit structures. That means that the structure can stay the same, but with function (stretch / stiffness / conductive yarn) being applied in various places of the upper.
  • the third yarn can be inserted in repetitive structures as shown in Figs. 1 - 4 or in jacquard structures, as shown in Fig. 5 .
  • the tucked-in third yarn may be combined with knitting techniques such as partial knitting, intarsia (zone knitting), plating, inverted plating, devore, inlay etc.
  • Figs. 6A-C Some additional knitting structures using a functional third yarn 310 are shown in Figs. 6A-C.
  • Fig. 6C illustrates an interlock structure with a third yarn.
  • the third yarn can also be inserted in spacer-based structures, as shown in Fig. 7 .
  • a spacer layer 400 and the third yarn 310 are alternately knitted in between two knitting rows of the first layer 100 and the second 200 layer.
  • Fig. 8 illustrates an embodiment of the invention, wherein the ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of miss stitches is variable within a course or a row.
  • the amount of support in different portions (510, 520) within the same row of the knitting element can be engineered by the tuck-miss ratio.
  • the example of Fig. 8 presents a first portion (510) with a tuck-miss ratio of 1:3 and a second portion (520) with a tuck-miss ratio of 1:1. More tucks close to one another one will add more yarn in that specific portion.
  • a variation of the tuck-miss ratio of the third yarn in different areas can provide different stretch or stiffness properties in the respective areas.
  • an inlay strand has the same property along its width.
  • the ratio between the number of tuck stitches and the number of miss stitches can be at least one of 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3.
  • Fig. 9 illustrates an embodiment, wherein the third yarn 310 is partially knitted in a certain portion of a knitting row.
  • the third yarn 310 is provided once in a first portion 530, wherein the third yarn is provided multiple (e.g. three) times in another portion 540.
  • Partially knitting of the third yarn as shown in Fig. 9 can provide different support by keeping the same tuck-miss ratio but knitting different amounts of the third yarn 310 in a certain portion of the knitting row or area of the double layer element.
  • partially knitting the third yarn is technically easier compared to an inlay strand. The reason is that the third yarn is connected by tuck to the fabric and it will not jump out when the knitting direction is changed.
  • Figs. 10A-B illustrate a configuration with attachment of the third yarn to both the first and second knitted layers, outside the scope of the current invention, with an efficient placement of a third yarn 310 in a double-knitted element by using Intarsia knitting.
  • special zones can be engineered on the knitted element to have special properties through intarsia.
  • the third yarn 310 is knitted, in a double-Jersey knit, multiple times in immediately successive courses in a portion of the knitted element between the front 100 and back layers 200.
  • the third yarn 310 is attached to the first 100 and the second 200 layer by alternating tuck-miss stitches.
  • a third yarn 310 with an elastomer material may be used to generate reinforced areas after the application of heat.
  • other polymer based yarns can also be used that provide a reinforcing effect on application of heat, pressure or other treatments.
  • Fig. 10B shows a section of a double-knitted element by using Intarsia knitting, in a double-Jersey knit, wherein the third yarn 310 is attached to the first 100 and the second 200 layer by alternating tuck-miss stitches. By using tuck-stiches of the third yarn 310 to both layers, the third yarn 310 is visible in both layers (e.g. first layer 100 of Fig. 10B ).
  • an upper for a shoe in particular a sports shoe, may be provided, which comprises a double layer knitted element according to the present invention.
  • a shoe in particular a sports shoe, may comprise an upper, which comprises a double layer knitted element of the present invention and a sole, which is attached to the upper.
  • Fig. 11 shows a flow diagram illustrating a method of manufacturing a double layer knitted element according to the present invention and as described in more detail above.
  • a first layer comprising a first yarn is provided.
  • a second layer comprising a second yarn is provided.
  • a third yarn is at least in part arranged between the first and second layer, wherein the third yarn is attached to only one of the first and second layer by a plurality of tuck stitches, wherein there is at least one miss stitch between two successive tuck stitches of the third yarn.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Claims (14)

  1. Elément tricoté à double couche, en particulier pour un article de sport, comprenant :
    a. une première couche (100) comprenant un premier fil (110) ; et
    b. une seconde couche (200) comprenant un second fil (210) ; et
    c. un troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) agencé au moins en partie entre la première et la seconde couche (100, 200), le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) étant relié à l'une de la première et de la seconde couche (100, 200) par une pluralité de mailles retenues (311), au moins une maille sautée (312) étant présente entre deux mailles retenues successives (311) du troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b),
    d. dans lequel le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) comprend un fil fonctionnel, et
    e. dans lequel le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) est relié à une seule de la première et de la seconde couche (100, 200) par des mailles retenues (311) de la couche respective,
    caractérisé en ce que le troisième fil fonctionnel (310, 310a, 310b) est un fil fusible, un fil de polyuréthanne thermoplastique ou un fil hybride représentant un mélange de polyester et de fil fusible.
  2. L'élément tricoté à double couche de la revendication 1, dans lequel le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) est relié à l'une de la première et de la seconde couche (100, 200) par des mailles retenues (311) successives.
  3. L'élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel un rapport entre le nombre de mailles retenues (311) et le nombre de mailles sautées (312) varie au sein d'une rangée de mailles.
  4. L'élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le rapport entre le nombre de mailles retenues (311) et le nombre de mailles sautées (312) est au moins l'un de 1:1, 1:2, ou 1:3.
  5. L'élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel une distance entre deux mailles retenues (311) successives est inférieure à 2,54 cm.
  6. L'élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le premier fil (110) de la première couche (100) est relié à la seconde couche (200), et/ou le second fil (210) de la seconde couche (200) est relié à la première couche (100) par des mailles retenues ou bouclettes.
  7. L'élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) est tricoté au moins deux fois entre deux rangées de tricotage.
  8. L'élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) est partiellement tricoté dans une certaine partie (510, 520, 530, 540) de la rangée de tricotage.
  9. L'élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel l'épaisseur du troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) varie le long de l'élément tricoté.
  10. L'élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) à mailles retenues est produit en structures répétitives, en structures Jacquard ou en structure à intercalaires (400).
  11. L'élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel l'élément est fabriqué par des techniques intarsia, interlock, de vanisage, de vanisage inversé, et/ou d'inlay.
  12. Tige de chaussure, en particulier de chaussure de sport, comprenant un élément tricoté à double couche de l'une des revendications précédentes.
  13. Chaussure, en particulier chaussure de sport, comprenant :
    a. une tige selon la revendication 12 ; et
    b. une semelle fixée à la tige.
  14. Procédé de fabrication d'un élément tricoté à double couche selon l'une des revendications 1 à 11, le procédé comprenant les étapes :
    a. d'obtention (1110) d'une première couche (100) comprenant un premier fil (110) ; et
    b. d'obtention (1120) d'une seconde couche (200) comprenant un second fil (210) ; et
    c. d'agencement (1130) d'un troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) au moins en partie entre la première et la seconde couche (100, 200), le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) étant relié à l'une de la première et de la seconde couche (100, 200) par une pluralité de mailles retenues (311), au moins une maille sautée (312) étant présente entre deux mailles retenues successives (311) du troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b),
    d. dans lequel le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) comprend un fil fonctionnel, et
    e. dans lequel le troisième fil (310, 310a, 310b) est relié à une seule de la première et de la seconde couche (100, 200) par des mailles retenues (311) de la couche respective,
    caractérisé en ce que le troisième fil fonctionnel (310, 310a, 310b) est un fil fusible, un fil de polyuréthanne thermoplastique ou un fil hybride représentant un mélange de polyester et de fil fusible.
EP21208263.0A 2020-11-17 2021-11-15 Élément tricoté double face comprenant des fils fonctionnels en charge, tige de chaussure et une chaussure avec ledit élément tricoté Active EP4001484B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

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DE102020214449.4A DE102020214449B4 (de) 2020-11-17 2020-11-17 Doppelt gestricktes Oberteil umfassend funktionelle Einsteckgarne

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EP4001484B1 true EP4001484B1 (fr) 2024-05-08

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EP (1) EP4001484B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2022080295A (fr)
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DE (1) DE102020214449B4 (fr)

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EP4001484A1 (fr) 2022-05-25
JP2022080295A (ja) 2022-05-27
DE102020214449B4 (de) 2023-11-09
DE102020214449A1 (de) 2022-05-19
US20220151341A1 (en) 2022-05-19

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