EP3946245A1 - Nichttherapeutische kosmetische verwendung von carboxyalkylierter stärke in einer emulsion für sensorische polsterungs- und weichgefühleffekte - Google Patents

Nichttherapeutische kosmetische verwendung von carboxyalkylierter stärke in einer emulsion für sensorische polsterungs- und weichgefühleffekte

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Publication number
EP3946245A1
EP3946245A1 EP20717117.4A EP20717117A EP3946245A1 EP 3946245 A1 EP3946245 A1 EP 3946245A1 EP 20717117 A EP20717117 A EP 20717117A EP 3946245 A1 EP3946245 A1 EP 3946245A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
emulsion
oil
water
starch
starches
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP20717117.4A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Géraldine LOUVET-POMMIER
Camille LACORE
Sophie PIOT
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Roquette Freres SA
Original Assignee
Roquette Freres SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Roquette Freres SA filed Critical Roquette Freres SA
Publication of EP3946245A1 publication Critical patent/EP3946245A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/591—Mixtures of compounds not provided for by any of the codes A61K2800/592 - A61K2800/596

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, comprising a sensory agent with "cushion” and “soft” effects.
  • a current need for formulators of cosmetic products is to have functional ingredients, in particular with sensory functionality, which are natural or of natural origin.
  • the invention makes it possible to provide a cosmetic product with a "cushion effect" with a sensory agent of natural origin.
  • the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a carboxyalkylated granular starch in an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, preferably oil-in-water, as a sensory agent with a cushion effect and soft effect.
  • the invention relates to the use of a carboxyalkylated granular starch in an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, preferably oil-in-water, so that said emulsion has a sensory profile characterized by a cushion effect, and a softness.
  • the cushion effect has a score greater than or equal to 7, preferably greater than or equal to 7.5, the score being measured by an evaluation by a sensory panel with the “EBItouch®” kit.
  • the soft effect has a score greater than or equal to 7, preferably greater than or equal to 7.5, the score being measured by an evaluation by a sensory panel with the “EBItouch®” kit.
  • the starch useful in the invention is a carboxyalkylated granular starch.
  • the starch can be a starch of corn, potato, wheat, rice, peas, oats, lentils, field beans, broad beans, beans, chickpeas, cassava, or combinations thereof.
  • the starch is a potato starch.
  • the Applicant means that the starch is in the form of granules having a structure organized in alternating crystalline, semi-crystalline and amorphous layers. This organization is generally characterized by the observation of birefringence patterns under exposure to polarized light, also called “Maltese cross”. It can also be characterized by an X-ray diffraction measurement.
  • carboxyalkylated the Applicant means a starch which has been chemically modified by at least one carboxyalkylation.
  • carboxyalkylation within the meaning of the present invention is understood to mean in particular without this list being limiting, any chemical modification capable of replacing all or part of the OH hydroxyl groups of the starch by groups of the 0- (CH2) type ) n-COOH, of type 0- (CH2) n-COOX, of type O-CH- COOH- (CH2) m-COOH, or of type 0-CH-C00H- (CH2) m-C00X in which:
  • - n is equal to zero (cyanidation reaction) or greater, preferably between 1 (carboxymethylation reaction) and 4 (carboxybutylation reaction) and most preferably equal to 1 (carboxymethylation) or 2 (carboxyethylation reaction or cyanoethylation reaction )
  • - m is greater than zero and in particular equal to 1 (carboxyalkylation by use of chloromalonic acid for example),
  • - X is a cation, preferably monovalent, chosen in particular from the group comprising sodium, potassium and lithium, in particular sodium and potassium, sodium being generally preferred.
  • the carboxyalkylated granular starch is chosen from carboxymethylated, carboxyethylated, carboxypropylated starches, or a mixture thereof.
  • the carboxyalkylated granular starch useful in the invention may also have been modified by at least two chemical carboxyalkylation modifications, preferably chosen from carboxymethylation, carboxyethylation and carboxypropylation.
  • the carboxyalkylation consists of a carboxymethylation reaction using monochloroacetic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium monochloroacetate.
  • carboxymethylated starch useful in the invention are Glycolys® or Explosol® marketed by Roquette Fromme, Vivastar® or Explotab® from JRS Pharma.
  • the starch useful in the invention is a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked granular starch.
  • the carboxylkylated granular starch can be crosslinked by a crosslinking agent chosen from polyfunctional acids, polyacid anhydrides, or polyfunctional basic organic molecules, as well as their metal salts.
  • the polyfunctional acids having crosslinked the carboxyalkylated starch can be polycarboxylic acids, such as citric acid, or polyphosphoric acids, such as triphosphoric acid;
  • Polyacid anhydrides having crosslinked the carboxyalkylated starch can be mixed polyacid anhydrides such as mixed adipic-acetic anhydride.
  • Polyfunctional basic organic molecules having crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch can be polyphosphates.
  • Their metal salts can be sodium, manganese, calcium, manganese, iron, copper or zinc salts.
  • a preferred variant of crosslinking agent is the sodium salts of polyacids, such as sodium trimetaphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate.
  • crosslinking agents which have crosslinked the carboxyalkylated starch can be the aldehydes polyfunctional, such as glyoxal; halogenated epoxides, such as epichlorohydrin; aliphatic or aromatic diisocyanates, the alkyl chain of which has less than 8 carbon atoms, such as hexamethylene diisocyanate; oxohalides, such as phosphorus oxychloride.
  • the carboxyalkylated and / or crosslinked granular starch is present in the emulsion at a percentage ranging from 1% to 20%, preferably from 3% to 18%, most preferably from 5% to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention can be an oil-in-water emulsion obtained by emulsifying a fatty phase in an aqueous phase in the presence of surfactants, or a water-in-oil emulsion obtained by emulsifying a aqueous phase in a fatty phase in the presence of surfactants.
  • the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the fatty phase can contain at least one oil.
  • oil means a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), and which, when it is introduced in an amount of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C. C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble in an amount of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.
  • the fatty phase can represent a mass percentage ranging from 10% to 70%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils which provide an emollient effect on the skin.
  • fatty esters such as cetearyl isononate, isotridecyl isononate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate , hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, succinate 2-diethyl hexyl, diisostearyl malate, tracetin, tricprine, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, triheptanoin, mixture of coconut caprate and caprylate,
  • oils can also be oils of the hydrocarbon type, for example C15-C19 alkanes, or silicone oils such as paraffin oil, squalane oil, petrolatum, dimethylsiloxanes and their mixtures.
  • the non-novatile oil is chosen from coco-caprylate / caprate, triheptanoin, diheptyl succinate / capryloyl glycerin / Sebacic acid copolymer, C15-C19 alkanes, or mixtures thereof
  • the at least one non-volatile oil can be present in the emulsion in a percentage ranging from 10% to 70%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the liquid fatty phase can also comprise volatile oils.
  • volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin, in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oils can for example be chosen from silicone oils or triglycerides of short C2-C6 fatty acids, to reduce the greasy feel.
  • the volatile oils can be present in the emulsion in a percentage ranging from 10% to 70%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the fatty phase of the emulsion according to the invention can also advantageously comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent such as a lipophilic gelling agent, a wax and / or a pasty compound.
  • the at least one agent fatty phase structuring agent may be present in the emulsion in a percentage ranging from 1% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • wax means a fatty substance with a reversible liquid / solid state change, having a melting point greater than 30 ° C and generally less than 90 ° C, which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of emulsion and exhibits in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.
  • the waxes used according to the invention may consist of polar or non-polar waxes or of a mixture of the two.
  • nonpolar is meant a wax containing only carbon, hydrogen and / or phosphorus atoms and in particular a hydrocarbon.
  • Polar waxes can in particular be chosen from animal waxes, vegetable waxes and synthetic or silicone waxes containing polar groups such as esters.
  • These waxes can in particular be used in the form predispersed in an oil, as is the case with the mixture of candelilla wax and jojoba seed oil.
  • the waxes can be present in the emulsion in a percentage ranging from 1% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • pasty compound is understood to mean lipophilic fatty substances which, like waxes, are capable of undergoing a reversible change of liquid / solid state and have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, but which are different from waxes in that they contain, at a temperature of 23 ° C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the pasty compounds can be present in the emulsion in a percentage ranging from 1% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • Aqueous phase The emulsion according to the invention can comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally, one or more organic solvents miscible with water, and / or one or more rheology agents.
  • the aqueous phase can represent a mass percentage ranging from 30 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the percentage by mass in the aqueous phase preferably ranges from 30 to 85%, more preferably from 50 to 85%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the percentage by mass in the aqueous phase preferably ranges from 30 to 70%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the water can represent from 30 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the water is demineralized water.
  • One or more water-miscible organic solvents may be present in the emulsion at a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the rheology agent can in particular be a thickening agent of the aqueous phase, a gelling agent or a suspensive agent, such as for example gums obtained from plants such as arabic gum, konjac gum, guar gum or their derivatives; gums extracted from algae, such as alginates; gums resulting from microbial fermentation such as xanthans, mannans, scleroglucans or their derivatives; cellulose and its derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose; starch and its derivatives such as in particular modified starches, in particular acetylated, carboxymethylated, octenylsuccinates or hydroxypropylated; synthetic polymers such as polyacrylics or carbomers.
  • a gelling agent or a suspensive agent such as for example gums obtained from plants such as arabic gum, konjac gum, guar gum or their derivatives; gums extracted from algae, such as alginates; gums resulting from microbial
  • the rheology agent is a thickening agent for the aqueous phase. More preferably, the rheology agent is the Beauté by Roquette® DS112 product marketed by Roquette Fringham. The at least one rheology agent can be present in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention can also comprise one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifiers.
  • the at least one surfactant can be present in a percentage ranging from 1% to 15%, preferably from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifier can in particular be chosen from optionally polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, esters or polyesters of fatty acids and of sucrose, esters of fatty acids and of polyethylene glycol, polyether modified polysiloxanes, ethers of fatty alcohols and of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides and hydrogenated lecithin, without this list being exhaustive.
  • the oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifying agent is chosen from alkylpolyglycosides.
  • the oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifier is cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic.
  • the oil-in-water emulsifier may be present in a percentage ranging from 1% to 15%, preferably from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifier can be chosen from unethoxylated fatty esters of polyols, and in particular from unethoxylated fatty esters of glycerol, of polyglycerols, of sorbitol, of sorbitan, of anhydrohexitols such as in particular isosorbide, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, maltitol, sucrose, glucose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrups, dextrins and hydrolyzed starches.
  • the water-in-oil emulsifier may be present in a percentage ranging from 1% to 15%, preferably from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the W / O emulsifier can be chosen from unethoxylated fatty esters of polyols obtained from fatty acid or by trans-esterification from oil or mixtures of oils.
  • the fatty acids used comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. These acids can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, possess one or more side hydroxyl functions.
  • Oils can be saturated or unsaturated, from liquid to solid at room temperature, and optionally possess hydroxyl functions, preferably with an iodine number of between 1 and 145, and in particular from 5 to 105.
  • the O / W emulsifier can be advantageously chosen from emulsifier systems composed of a cyclodextrin and of a water-in-oil emulsifier of natural origin, such as the emulsifier system marketed by Roquette Fromme under the name Beauté by Roquette® DS146.
  • the emulsion according to the invention can also comprise at least one coloring material chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, the fillers having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the emulsion and / or of coloring the lips, such as pigments, nacres, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert mineral support) and mixtures thereof.
  • These coloring materials can optionally be surface treated with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, mixed C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicones copolymers, lecithins, wax.
  • the pigments can be inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic. Examples of pigments are in particular oxides of iron, titanium or zinc, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearl, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, without this list being limiting.
  • At least one coloring material is chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments, nacres, lakes and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one coloring material may be present in the emulsion in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the pigments and nacres may be present in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the water-soluble dyes can be present in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention can also contain at least one filler.
  • fillers are talc, mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, starch, starch modified by octenylsuccinic anhydride, polyamides, silicone resins, elastomer powders of silicone and acrylic polymer powders, in particular poly (methyl methacrylate) or styrene acrylate copolymer powders (Sunsphere Powders from Dow).
  • the at least one filler may be present in the emulsion at a percentage by weight ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention can further comprise at least one humectant, preferably chosen from isosorbide, sorbitol, xylitol, glycerin, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol , propanediol.
  • the humectant is isosorbide.
  • the at least one humectant can then be present in the emulsion at a percentage by weight ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the emulsion according to the invention may contain adjuvants usually used in cosmetics.
  • adjuvants there may be mentioned, for example, preservatives, perfumes or perfuming compositions or essential oils.
  • the emulsion can comprise at least one preservative and at least one perfume or a perfuming composition or an essential oil.
  • the percentages of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered.
  • the preservative is phanoxyethanol / chlorphenesin / glycerin sold under the name Microcare PHC® from Thor.
  • the at least one preservative is present in the emulsion in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the at least one perfume or one perfuming composition or an essential oil is present in the emulsion in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion. Evaluation of the sensory profile with the "EBItouch®" kit
  • the sensory profile is evaluated by a panel of trained persons and with the "EBItouch®” kit sold by the School of Industrial Biology, located at the address 49 avenue des Genottes, CS90009, 95895 Cergy-Pontoise, France.
  • the panel is made up of 18 people aged 20 to 23.
  • the "EBItouch®” kit includes reference products, called “terminal”, for each sensory evaluation criterion, called “descriptor”. For each of these descriptors, the kit includes a terminal “0”, which corresponds to the minimum sensation of the descriptor, and a terminal “10” which corresponds to the maximum sensation of the descriptor.
  • Each panelist applies the products to be evaluated (at least two) on the anterior face of his forearm, by spreading approximately 0.02 grams of each product on a disc of diameter approximately equal to 5 cm. All the descriptors are evaluated at the same time, during the following six stages: appearance of the product, setting of the product, application of the product, immediately after application of the product, one minute after application, two minutes after application.
  • the evaluations of the panelists are processed statistically in order to establish, for each descriptor, an average, which is the “score” of the descriptor, and a standard deviation, and the value of the parameter “p”.
  • the oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion has the texture of a whipped cream.
  • the term “sensory agent with cushioning and soft effect” is understood to mean a functional ingredient capable of imparting to an emulsion, of the oil-in-water or water type. -in- oil, a sensory profile exhibiting a “cushion effect” descriptor and a “soft” descriptor, preferably having scores greater than or equal to 7 according to the evaluation by a sensory panel with the “EBItouch®” kit.
  • Example 1 preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion of the "whipped cream” type
  • An oil-in-water emulsion of the “whipped cream” type is prepared according to the composition of Table 1, following the protocol below.
  • the sensory agent with a cushioning and soft effect is Glycolys® from Roquette Fromme. It is a carboxymethylated starch.
  • phase A1 The ingredients of phase A1 are mixed and heated to 80 ° C. with gentle stirring with a deflocculating paddle at 250-500 rpm.
  • Phase A2 is dispersed in phase A1 with stirring with a deflocculating paddle at 500-1000 rpm, maintaining a temperature of 80 ° C. and stirring for 40 minutes.
  • phase B is prepared by mixing the ingredients and heating to 80 ° C.
  • phase B is emulsified in phase A1 + A2 with stirring with a deflocculating paddle at 2000-3000 rpm for 10 minutes. Then allowed to cool naturally to 20-25 ° C with stirring at 500-1000 rpm. Phase C is added with stirring 500-1000 rpm at 20-25 ° C, then maintained for 5-10 minutes. Optionally, one finishes by adding phase D and E with stirring at 500-1000 rpm.
  • an oil-in-water emulsion is prepared according to the composition of Table 1 without the Glycolys® from Roquette.
  • a cream is obtained, with which the cream according to the invention is compared.
  • Example 2 evaluation of the sensory profile by a panel
  • the first three descriptors evaluated are visual characteristics of the product.
  • the product is examined in the jar, under a lamp equipped with a 5500 K temperature bulb.
  • the “opaque” descriptor of a product is defined by whether or not the product allows light to pass through.
  • the “whiteness” descriptor is defined by the reference color palette of the "EBItouch®” kit. The product is compared to the color palette by a panel of reviewers.
  • gloss is defined by the fact that the product reflects light or not.
  • the following descriptors are evaluated when the product is used.
  • the examination of 50 to 100 pL of the studied product is made between the thumb and the index finger, under the lamp.
  • the "fluid" descriptor is evaluated when pressure is exerted on the product, between the thumb and forefinger. If it has no hold, flows from the fingers and moves away from the pressure zone, it is fluid, conversely it is non-fluid.
  • the "cushion effect” descriptor is evaluated by exerting two light pressures of the product between the thumb and forefinger. When we feel a rebound or cushioning or cushion under the fingers, then we speak of the cushion effect. The amplitude of the rebound or damping is evaluated by a score out of 10: 0 corresponds to the "fluid terminal" reference of the EBItouch® kit, 10 corresponds to the "repairing hand cream for damaged hands, with allantoin" from "Mixa”.
  • the "string” descriptor is evaluated by placing the product between the thumb and forefinger and slowly spreading the 2 fingers apart, a continuous thread forms between the 2 fingers. The thread breaks for an important separation of the fingers.
  • the "slippery" descriptor is evaluated by placing the product between the thumb and forefinger and performing a rubbing motion (such as "finger snapping"), there is no resistance.
  • the product facilitates the movement of the 2 fingers.
  • the "soft" descriptor is evaluated during the application, from the 2 nd to the 5 th rotation. When we have a feeling sagging or thickness, we speak of softness.
  • the amplitude of the softness is evaluated by a score out of 10: 0 corresponds to the “Fluid” limit of the EBItouch® kit, 10 corresponds to the “Non-opaque” limit of the EBItouch® kit.
  • the "whitening" descriptor is evaluated during application, from the 2 nd to the 5 th rotation: the product whitens the skin.
  • the "powdered” descriptor is evaluated between the 2nd and the 5th rotation.
  • the fingers glide well on the skin.
  • the product is perceived as a powdery substance on the skin.
  • the amplitude of the powder is evaluated with a score out of 10: 0 corresponds to the "Slippery” limit of the EBItouch® kit, 10 corresponds to "The POREfessionnal: Pearl Primer" foundation from “Benefit”
  • the examination is done under the lamp, on the skin, 1 minute after spreading 50 to 100mI of the product.
  • the descriptor "soft" smooth in English is evaluated by performing a glide on the skin, a dry and slippery touch is felt.
  • the "fat" descriptor is evaluated by pinching the skin between the thumb and forefinger: the thickness of the product between the fingers is evaluated.
  • the criteria for improved sensory properties in the emulsion according to the invention are: the cushion effect, the softness, the powdery, the soft.
  • Table 2 shows the sensory profiles evaluated for an oil-in-water emulsion without starch according to the invention, and for an oil-in-water emulsion. water with a starch according to the invention (Glycolys®), as prepared in Example 1.
  • the sensory panel made it possible to demonstrate that the crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch Glycolys® makes it possible to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion exhibiting a cushion effect, a softness, a powdery and a soft touch.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP20717117.4A 2019-03-29 2020-03-30 Nichttherapeutische kosmetische verwendung von carboxyalkylierter stärke in einer emulsion für sensorische polsterungs- und weichgefühleffekte Pending EP3946245A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1903357A FR3094221B1 (fr) 2019-03-29 2019-03-29 Utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique d’amidon carboxalkylé dans une émulsion pour des effets sensoriels coussin et moelleux
PCT/EP2020/058930 WO2020201203A1 (fr) 2019-03-29 2020-03-30 Utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique d'amidon carboxyalkylé dans une émulsion pour des effets sensoriels coussin et moelleux

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EP3946245A1 true EP3946245A1 (de) 2022-02-09

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US (1) US20220151906A1 (de)
EP (1) EP3946245A1 (de)
JP (1) JP2022526782A (de)
KR (1) KR20210146328A (de)
CN (1) CN113645950A (de)
FR (1) FR3094221B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2020201203A1 (de)

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WO2023208618A1 (en) * 2022-04-29 2023-11-02 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Aerated cosmetic composition
WO2024165240A1 (fr) 2023-02-09 2024-08-15 Roquette Freres Compositions cosmetiques ou dermatologiques a effet coussin presentant un peluchage modere a faible
FR3145683A1 (fr) * 2023-02-09 2024-08-16 Roquette Freres Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques à effet coussin présentant un peluchage modéré à faible

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FR2844448B1 (fr) * 2002-09-17 2006-06-23 Lcw Les Colorants Wackherr Methode de preparation extemporanee de compositions cosmetiques ayant la texture d'une creme, et compositions pour la mise en oeuvre de cette methode
US20060025318A1 (en) * 2004-04-22 2006-02-02 Mireille Maubru Composition for washing and conditioning keratin materials, comprising a carboxyalkyl starch, and process for the use thereof
FR2892305A1 (fr) * 2005-10-20 2007-04-27 Oreal Composition de lavage et de conditionnement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un carboxyalkylamidon, utilisation et procede
EP2042154A1 (de) * 2007-09-28 2009-04-01 Koninklijke Coöperatie Cosun U.A. Kosmetischer Schaum
JP2010254627A (ja) * 2009-04-27 2010-11-11 Kowa Co 水中油型乳化組成物
JP6045844B2 (ja) * 2012-08-03 2016-12-14 花王株式会社 水中油型乳化組成物
FR3045334B1 (fr) * 2015-12-17 2020-01-03 L'oreal Composition de type gel/gel a base de pigments enrobes hydrophobes et d'un acide gras liquide
KR20180024463A (ko) * 2016-08-30 2018-03-08 (주)아모레퍼시픽 안정성이 우수한 수중유형 에멀젼 및 이를 포함하는 화장료 조성물
FR3079417B1 (fr) * 2018-03-30 2020-02-28 L'oreal Gel aqueux moussant comprenant un amidon modifie et un polysaccharide non amylace
DE102018209853A1 (de) * 2018-06-19 2019-12-19 Beiersdorf Ag Wasserfreie topisch applizierbare Zubereitung

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CN113645950A (zh) 2021-11-12
US20220151906A1 (en) 2022-05-19
FR3094221B1 (fr) 2022-05-13
WO2020201203A1 (fr) 2020-10-08
KR20210146328A (ko) 2021-12-03
JP2022526782A (ja) 2022-05-26

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