EP3946242A1 - Nanoémulsions huile-dans-eau comprenant un tensioactif non-ionique et un tensioactif ionique - Google Patents
Nanoémulsions huile-dans-eau comprenant un tensioactif non-ionique et un tensioactif ioniqueInfo
- Publication number
- EP3946242A1 EP3946242A1 EP20713040.2A EP20713040A EP3946242A1 EP 3946242 A1 EP3946242 A1 EP 3946242A1 EP 20713040 A EP20713040 A EP 20713040A EP 3946242 A1 EP3946242 A1 EP 3946242A1
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- European Patent Office
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- oil
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/21—Emulsions characterized by droplet sizes below 1 micron
Definitions
- Oil-in-water nanoemulsions comprising a nonionic surfactant and an ionic surfactant
- the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one oil.
- Oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions are well known in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic products such as milks, creams, tonics, serums, water. toilet.
- Nanoemulsions are O / W emulsions characterized by a size of the oily globules, in particular less than 500 nm, the oily globules being stabilized by a crown of amphiphilic lipids which can optionally form a liquid crystal phase of lamellar type, located at the oil / interface interface. aqueous phase.
- the small size of the oily globules is generally obtained through the use of mechanical energy and in particular of a high pressure homogenizer.
- Nanoemulsions are to be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure. In fact, microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions made up of micelles of amphiphilic lipid (s) swollen with oil.
- microemulsions do not require significant mechanical energy to be produced; they form spontaneously by simply bringing the constituents into contact.
- the major drawbacks of microemulsions are linked to their high proportion of surfactants, leading to intolerances and resulting in a sticky feel when applied to the skin.
- their formulation range is generally very narrow and their temperature stability very limited.
- O / W nanoemulsions generally include a small amount of oil, i.e. a content of up to 20% by weight. In addition, they have a relatively fluid texture.
- compositions in the form of O / W nanoemulsions having a texture of the care cream type which are not sticky and which are pleasant to apply.
- the object of the invention is to provide a composition in the form of an O / W nanoemulsion comprising a high oil content while having a gelled appearance.
- Such a composition in the form of a nanoemulsion is pleasant to apply, ie is softer on application while being less greasy and less sticky.
- the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, having oil drops, the mean diameter by volume D (4.3) of which is between 50 nm and 500 nm, comprising:
- nonionic surfactant chosen from:
- polyglycerol monoesters and diesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and one or more fatty carbon chains comprising from 12 to 16 carbon atoms
- At least one anionic surfactant chosen from acylglutamates in which the acyl group comprises from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, and
- composition according to the invention composition according to the invention
- nanoemulsion according to the invention nanoemulsion according to the invention
- a subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.
- the oil drops of the nanoemulsions according to the invention have an average diameter by volume D (4.3) of between 50 nm and 500 nm, preferably between 100 and 300 nm, preferably between 1 10 and 250 nm .
- the particle size measurements are carried out using a laser particle size analyzer (Mastersizer 2000 from the company Malvern). The sample is diluted in the instrument cell, then circulates in the measuring cell. The refractive indices are given for the calculation of the particle size distribution by volume.
- the D (4.3) is one of the results given by measuring the signal.
- the nanoemulsions according to the invention typically exhibit a gelled appearance.
- This gelled appearance is characterized by the rheological properties of the O / W nanoemulsion of the invention.
- the rheological properties of nanoemulsions can be evaluated using an MCR300 rotary rheometer (Anton-Paar) equipped with a Peltier plane to regulate the temperature.
- the apparatus is equipped with an anti-evaporation device and a measuring mobile with a sandblasted cone-plane geometry, of diameter 60 mm / 1 °, and an air gap of 120 ⁇ m.
- An oscillation mode measurement protocol is used, in which the composition sample is first subjected to a rotational strain of 0.1% in the linear domain, at a frequency of 1 Hz. Under these measurement conditions in dynamic regime, the normalized complex modulus
- of the composition according to the invention is between 400 and 20,000 Pa, preferably between 800 and 15,000 Pa, preferably between 1000 and 10,000 Pa.
- compositions according to the invention can also be characterized by their flow threshold, or threshold stress t c , expressed in Pa, which corresponds to the minimum stress to be applied to allow the composition to flow.
- the measurement protocol used is as follows: a logarithmic stress sweep from 0.5 Pa to 500 Pa in 10 minutes (60 points) is carried out, and the value of the strain at 25.0 ° C is recorded.
- the threshold stress corresponds to the slope break point of the strain versus stress curve.
- the threshold stress t c of the composition according to the invention is greater than 90 Pa, preferably between 95 and 1000 Pa, preferably between 100 and 700 Pa.
- the composition according to the invention is substantially free of gelling agent.
- substantially free of gelling agent is understood to mean that the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the gelling composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0 , 3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight.
- the composition according to the invention is completely free of gelling agent.
- gelling agent is meant a compound which, by gelling of the continuous aqueous phase, will increase the viscosity of the nanoemulsion.
- the gelling agent is for example a water-soluble polymer such as a cellulose derivative such as hydroxypropylcellulose, a derivative of algae, a natural gum or a synthetic polymer such as polymers and copolymers of carboxyvinylic acids, for example Carbopols, or else polyurethanes and polyurethanes / polyethers.
- composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from:
- polyglycerol monoesters and diesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and one or more fatty carbon chains having 12 to 16 carbon atoms
- the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from monoesters and diesters of sucrose with a carbonaceous fatty chain having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms (i.e. from C12 to C18).
- the monoesters and diesters of sucrose with a C12 to C18 carbonaceous chain according to the invention result from the esterification of a sucrose and of at least one carboxylic acid comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
- sucrose also called sucrose
- the carboxylic acid containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms can comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl or alkenyl chain.
- the carboxylic acid comprises a linear alkyl or alkenyl chain.
- the carboxylic acid comprises a saturated alkyl or alkenyl chain.
- the C12 to C18 carbon fatty chain sucrose monoesters and diesters are selected from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, and mixtures thereof.
- sucrose laurate is available under the name Surfhope SE Cosme C1216 from the company Mitsubishi.
- a commercial product based on sucrose palmitate is available under the name Surfhope SE Cosme C1616 from the company Mitsubishi.
- a mixture of sucrose stearate and sucrose palmitate can also be used.
- Such a product is in particular marketed by Crodesta under the name Crodesta F1 10.
- Another commercial product based on sucrose palmitate and sucrose stearate (30/70) is available under the name Crodesta F50 from the company Crodesta.
- sucrose cocoate can be used as a mixture with sorbitan stearate, such as the commercial product available under the name SP Arlacel 2121 from the company Croda (sorbitan stearate / sucrose cocoate mixture in weight proportion 82/18).
- the nanoemulsion according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two monoesters or diesters of sucrose with a carbon-based fatty chain having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
- the nanoemulsion according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two monoesters of sucrose with a carbonaceous fatty chain having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of sucrose laurate and sucrose palmitate.
- the nanoemulsion according to the invention preferably comprises a mixture of at least two fatty-chain carbonaceous sucrose diesters having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
- the nanoemulsion according to the invention preferably comprises a mixture of at least one monoester with at least one diester of sucrose with a carbonaceous fatty chain having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. More preferably, the nanoemulsion comprises a mixture of sucrose monostearate and sucrose distearate.
- the nonionic surfactant can also be chosen from polyglycerol monoesters and diesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and one or more carbon-based fatty chains having 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
- Polyglycerol monoesters and diesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and one or more C12 to C16 carbon-based fatty chains result from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid comprising from 12 to 16 carbon atoms and of a polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units.
- the carboxylic acid comprising 12 to 16 carbon atoms preferably has 12 to 14 carbon atoms. It can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, said carboxylic acid is linear. Preferably, said carboxylic acid is saturated. Preferably, said carboxylic acid is lauric acid.
- the polyglycerol monoesters and diesters can comprise linear chains of 3 to 10, preferably 4 to 10 glycerol units.
- the polyglycerol monoesters and diesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and one or more C12 to C16 carbon-containing fatty chains are chosen from polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl laurate. 5, polyglyceryl-10 laurate and mixtures thereof.
- a commercial product based on polyglyceryl-5 laurate is available under the name SunSoft by the company Taiyo Kagaku
- a commercial product based on polyglyceryl-10 laurate is available under the name Sunsoft Q12 Y by the company Taiyo Kagaku or under the name Dermofeel G 10 L by the company Unipex.
- a commercial product comprising polyglyceryl-4 laurate mixed with sorbitan laurate and dilauryl citrate, is the commercial product available under the name Tegocare LTP by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
- the nonionic surfactant can also be chosen from alkylpolyglucosides.
- alkylpolyglycoside is intended to mean an alkylmonooside (degree of polymerization 1) or alkylpolyglycoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1).
- alkylpolyglycosides can be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides. They generally respond to the following structure:
- radical R is a linear or branched C6-C30 alkyl radical
- G is a saccharide residue and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 3 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.
- the saccharide residue can be chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch. More preferably, the rest saccharide means glucose. It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside can be in isomeric a or b form, in L or D form and the configuration of the saccharide residue can be of furanoside or pyranoside type. It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolysaccharides which may differ from each other by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrier polysaccharide chain.
- alkylpolyglucosides mention may be made, for example, of cetearyl glucoside such as TEGOCARE CG 90 sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / C1 1 -polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 UP® by the company Cognis, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 1 10 by the company Seppic; laurylglucoside, such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by the company Cognis; and cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
- Alkypolyglucoside can be used in admixture with a fatty alcohol.
- the fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixture which may comprise:
- fatty alcohol (s) from 95 to 40% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) relative to the total weight of said mixture.
- the fatty alcohol (s) used can be chosen from those exhibiting
- fatty alcohols mention may in particular be made of lauric, cetyl, myristic, stearyl, isostearyl, palmitic, oleic, behenyl or arachidyl alcohol, alone or as mixtures.
- a fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyoside the alkyl part of which is identical to that of the fatty alcohol retained, is used.
- Cocoalcohol / Coco-glucoside - MONTANOV S Isostearyl alcohol / lsostearylglucoside - MONTANOV WO 18®.
- the total content of nonionic surfactant (s) ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 3% to 8% by weight.
- the nanoemulsion comprises a mixture of at least two monoesters or diesters of sucrose with a carbonaceous fatty chain having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms
- each mono- or diester is present in a content of between 0.5% to 10 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight.
- composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acylglutamates in which the acyl group comprises from 14 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the acyl group comprising 14 to 30 carbon atoms is a fatty chain derived from fatty acid, and preferably has 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
- This fatty chain can be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated.
- said fatty chain is linear.
- said fatty chain is saturated.
- the acylglutamate is present in the form of the mono- or disodium salt.
- the anionic surfactant is chosen from sodium stearoyl glutamate or stearoyl disodium glutamate, such as the products respectively marketed under the name Amisoft HS21 P and Amisoft HS1 1 PF by the company Ajinomoto .
- the anionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.3% to 1% by weight.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil, said oil being present in a content strictly greater than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition can also contain other fatty substances.
- the oil and optionally the other fatty substances form the oily phase of the composition.
- oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg, ie 10 5 Pa).
- the oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
- volatile oil means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or with the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mm of Hg), in particular ranging from 1, 3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1, 3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg ).
- non-volatile oil is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
- oils in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from all cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable and synthetic oils, in particular hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxyl functions.
- silicon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising in its structure carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom.
- oils which can be used in the composition of the invention there may be mentioned for example:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
- Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado (Persea gratissima oil), triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids like those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil), shea butter oil;
- esters and ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1 COOR2 and R10R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 6 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain , branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin's oil, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, d-myristate isopropyl, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxy
- hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched-chain hydrocarbon oils comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, l isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam® oil;
- - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
- silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), volatile or not with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenylsimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysphilicates, and polymersiloxysphilicates; or
- the nanoemulsion according to the invention comprises at least one oil of molecular weight greater than 400 g / mol.
- Oils with a molecular weight greater than 400 g / mol can be chosen from oils of animal or vegetable origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
- the oil is selected from isocetyl stearate, avocado oil and jojoba oil.
- the oil is present in the nanoemulsion in a content strictly greater than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the oil content present in the composition is between 45 and 90% by weight, preferably between 50 and 80% by weight, preferably between 55 and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the nanoemulsion can also comprise another fatty substance.
- the other fatty substances are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, cetylic acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid, or waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes .
- These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of consistency or of texture desired.
- composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water, and optionally at least one solvent miscible with water.
- water-miscible solvent is meant according to the present invention an organic solvent soluble in water at 25 ° C., chosen for example from linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol (or glycerin), diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 units of ethylene oxide; and their mixtures.
- the aqueous phase comprises at least one water-miscible solvent chosen from polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
- the aqueous phase comprises at least two, preferably three, water-miscible solvents selected from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
- the composition comprises from 10 to 60% by weight of aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 55% by weight, preferably from 30 to 53% by weight.
- the composition comprises 10 to 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 15 to 50% by weight, preferably 20 to 45% by weight.
- the composition comprises from 1 to 30% by weight of at least one water-miscible solvent relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7 to 15% in weight.
- the nanoemulsion as defined above is preferably obtained by a process consisting in mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase with vigorous stirring, at a temperature ranging from 10 to 80 ° C, then carrying out homogenization at a pressure ranging from preferably 6.10 7 Pa to 1.10 9 Pa (high pressure homogenization).
- compositions according to the invention can be used in any field where this type of composition is useful. They can in particular constitute compositions for topical use and in particular cosmetic or dermatological use.
- a composition for use topical or dermatological contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, scalp, eyes and / or hair.
- the nanoemulsions of the invention can contain water-soluble or liposoluble active agents having cosmetic or dermatological activity.
- the liposoluble active agents are in the oily globules of the emulsion, while the water-soluble active agents are in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.
- Mention may be made, as examples of active ingredients, of vitamins such as vitamin E, and their derivatives and in particular their esters, provitamins such as panthenol, humectants and sun filters.
- the nanoemulsions in accordance with the invention can be in the form of a lotion, serum, cream, milk or toilet water and can contain adjuvants usually used in cosmetics, dermatology and ophthalmics, such as for example preservatives, antioxidants and fragrances.
- the nanoemulsions of the invention can be used, for example, for caring for, treating and making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, face and / or scalp.
- the present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a nanoemulsion according to the invention.
- Example 1 Comparison of the rheological properties of a composition according to the invention comprising approximately 60% by weight of oils with two comparative compositions comprising approximately 20% by weight of oils
- composition according to the invention (C1) and two comparative compositions (CC1 and CC2) described in the table below are prepared according to the following protocol:
- phase A The ingredients of phase A are mixed and heated to 75 ° C;
- phase B The ingredients of phase B are mixed and heated to 75 ° C;
- a pre-emulsion is prepared by slowly introducing (for 5 min) and at room temperature phase B into phase A. This pre-emulsion is then homogenized using three passes through a high pressure homogenizer (GEA-Soavi OBL20) operating at 1000 bar, the temperature being kept below 30 ° C.
- GSA-Soavi OBL20 high pressure homogenizer
- phase C is prepared by dispersing the gelling agent at room temperature using a pale frame, and is added to the nano emulsion obtained above with stirring using a pale frame.
- composition according to the invention C1 comprises 59.9% by weight of oils and no gelling agent, while the comparative compositions CC1 and CC2 comprise 19.9% by weight of oils and a gelling agent.
- compositions CC1 and CC2 do not make it possible to obtain a compact and non-runny gel, as is the case with composition C1 according to the invention.
- the composition according to the invention C1 despite its high oil content (60%), is more slippery on application, softer and ultimately less sticky than the comparative compositions CC1 and CC2 gelled and containing only 20% of oil.
- composition according to the invention C1 makes it possible to obtain a compact and non-runny gel, while it does not include any gelling agent. Moreover, only this composition leads to a new sensory effect.
- Example 2 Effect of the particle size of the emulsion on the rheological properties
- composition C1 according to the invention described in Example 1 was compared with composition C2 according to the invention, with a comparative composition CC3.
- compositions C2 and CC3 were prepared with the same ingredients as C1 and were pre-emulsified according to the protocol described in Example 1. These pre- emulsions are then homogenized using different equipment making it possible to vary the size of the drops of the emulsion:
- C2 homogenization using a Symex type recirculating rotor-stator turbine (CML25) for 10 minutes, turbine speed of 9,500 rpm at a temperature of 80 ° C, then the emulsion is cooled to 20 ° C.
- CML25 Symex type recirculating rotor-stator turbine
- CC3 homogenization using an Olsa-Maxilab type turbine for 15 minutes, turbine speed 4500 rpm, at a temperature of 80 ° C, then the emulsion is cooled to 20 ° C.
- compositions C1 and C2 according to the invention the particle size of which is less than 500 nm, have a gelled appearance.
- the compositions according to the invention, the particle size of which is less than 500 nm are judged to be less greasy and less sticky than the comparative composition with a larger particle size.
- Example 3 Impact of the oil content on the texture of emulsions
- compositions C3 (invention) and CC4 (comparative) comprising a respective oil content of 50% and 40%, were prepared according to the preparation protocol for composition C2 described in Example 2, with the ingredients described in table below: [Table 4]
- composition CC4 an oil content of 40% (composition CC4) is insufficient to lead to a gelled emulsion, even if the average size of the oil drops is less than 500 nm.
- composition C3 is evaluated as less tacky during application and more slippery and film-forming after application, despite a higher oil content.
- Example 4 Compositions according to the invention comprising sugar esters
- compositions C4 to C6 according to the invention are also prepared as follows:
- Composition C4 according to the invention has the formulation detailed in Table 6 below.
- phase A is prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase A, and the ingredients of phase B, at 80 ° C, with stirring with a recirculating rotor-stator turbine of the Symex type (CML25) for 10 minutes, with a turbine speed of 9500 rpm and at a temperature of 80 ° C.
- the emulsion is then cooled to 20 ° C.
- composition C4 a gelled opalescent emulsion is obtained with an average drop diameter D (4.3) of 0.246 ⁇ m.
- Composition C5 according to the invention has the formulation detailed in Table 7 below. It is prepared according to the following protocol: in a recirculating rotor-stator turbine of the Symex type (CML25) phase A is introduced which is brought to 75 ° C then phase B is added at 75 ° C which is then added. emulsifies for 20 minutes with a turbine speed of 9500 rpm. The mixture is then cooled to 25 ° C.
- CML25 Symex type
- composition C5 a gelled opalescent emulsion is obtained with an average drop diameter D (4.3) of 0.153 mm.
- Composition C6 according to the invention has the formulation detailed in Table 8 below.
- phase A is prepared according to the following protocol: the ingredients of phase A and the ingredients of phase B are mixed with a recirculating rotor-stator turbine of the Symex type (CML25) for 10 minutes, with a turbine speed of 9000 rev / min and at a temperature of 80 ° C. The emulsion is then cooled to 20 ° C.
- CML25 recirculating rotor-stator turbine of the Symex type
- Example 5 Compositions according to the invention formulated for different applications
- compositions C7 to C9 according to the invention show the formulations detailed in Tables 8 to 10 below. These compositions correspond respectively to an anti-aging composition, to a photoprotective composition and to a moisturizing composition.
- compositions were prepared according to the preparation protocol for composition C2 described in Example 2 (for composition C8), or else according to Example 4 (for compositions C7 and C9).
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1903269A FR3094219B1 (fr) | 2019-03-28 | 2019-03-28 | Nanoémulsions huile-dans-eau comprenant un tensioactif non-ionique et un tensioactif ionique |
PCT/EP2020/058764 WO2020193766A1 (fr) | 2019-03-28 | 2020-03-27 | Nanoémulsions huile-dans-eau comprenant un tensioactif non-ionique et un tensioactif ionique |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP3946242A1 true EP3946242A1 (fr) | 2022-02-09 |
Family
ID=67185466
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP20713040.2A Pending EP3946242A1 (fr) | 2019-03-28 | 2020-03-27 | Nanoémulsions huile-dans-eau comprenant un tensioactif non-ionique et un tensioactif ionique |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP3946242A1 (fr) |
JP (1) | JP7389136B2 (fr) |
CN (1) | CN113631142A (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3094219B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2020193766A1 (fr) |
Family Cites Families (14)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2796990B2 (ja) | 1989-05-10 | 1998-09-10 | 株式会社資生堂 | 肌用化粧料 |
JP3752767B2 (ja) * | 1996-03-08 | 2006-03-08 | 三菱化学株式会社 | 高含油水中油型乳化組成物及びその製造方法 |
FR2787027B1 (fr) * | 1998-12-14 | 2001-01-12 | Oreal | Nanoemulsion a base d'esters gras de sucre ou d'ethers gras de sucre et ses utilisations dans les domaines cosmetique, dermatologique et/ou ophtalmologique |
FR2787326B1 (fr) * | 1998-12-17 | 2001-01-26 | Oreal | Nanoemulsion a base d'esters gras de glycerol, et ses utilisations dans les domaines cosmetique, dermatologique et/ou ophtalmologique |
FR2873022B1 (fr) * | 2004-07-16 | 2006-09-01 | Oreal | Emulsion h/e riche en huile, et son utilisation dans le domaine cosmetique. |
FR2881955B1 (fr) | 2005-02-11 | 2007-05-11 | Oreal | Nanoemulsion cosmetique contenant un compose d'uree hydroxyle |
JP5639569B2 (ja) | 2010-12-13 | 2014-12-10 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 水中油型乳化日焼け止め化粧料 |
US9827186B2 (en) * | 2013-03-07 | 2017-11-28 | Innovacos Corp. | Waxes having oil-in-water self-emulsifying and water gel-forming properties, compositions, uses and methods relating to same |
KR102298806B1 (ko) * | 2015-03-31 | 2021-09-07 | (주)아모레퍼시픽 | 식물 유래 계면활성제를 포함하는 화장료 조성물 |
KR20170063385A (ko) * | 2015-11-30 | 2017-06-08 | 후지필름 가부시키가이샤 | 겔상 수중유형 유화 조성물, 피부 외용제 및 수중유형 유화 조성물의 제조 방법 |
JP6867405B2 (ja) * | 2016-04-21 | 2021-04-28 | ユニリーバー・ナームローゼ・ベンノートシヤープ | 脂肪酸及びアミノ酸塩のn−アシル誘導体を含む新規なナノエマルジョン |
US20200323747A1 (en) * | 2016-04-21 | 2020-10-15 | Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever | Novel nanoemulsions comprising n-acyl amino acid salt and process for making |
CN110290775B (zh) * | 2017-02-08 | 2022-03-22 | 联合利华知识产权控股有限公司 | 包含在水相中的甘油的新型纳米乳液 |
FR3070011B1 (fr) * | 2017-08-11 | 2021-10-15 | Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher | Emulsion moussante a haute teneur en huile et ses utilisations, notamment pour l'hygiene corporelle |
-
2019
- 2019-03-28 FR FR1903269A patent/FR3094219B1/fr active Active
-
2020
- 2020-03-27 JP JP2021557514A patent/JP7389136B2/ja active Active
- 2020-03-27 EP EP20713040.2A patent/EP3946242A1/fr active Pending
- 2020-03-27 CN CN202080025419.6A patent/CN113631142A/zh active Pending
- 2020-03-27 WO PCT/EP2020/058764 patent/WO2020193766A1/fr unknown
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JP7389136B2 (ja) | 2023-11-29 |
WO2020193766A1 (fr) | 2020-10-01 |
JP2022526168A (ja) | 2022-05-23 |
FR3094219A1 (fr) | 2020-10-02 |
FR3094219B1 (fr) | 2021-04-09 |
CN113631142A (zh) | 2021-11-09 |
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