EP3941435A1 - Neue nicht-therapeutische verwendung eines extrakts von nephelium lappaceum zur verhinderung und/oder verringerung von unangenehmen gerüchen auf der haut und/oder schleimhäuten und/oder hautanhangsgebilden - Google Patents

Neue nicht-therapeutische verwendung eines extrakts von nephelium lappaceum zur verhinderung und/oder verringerung von unangenehmen gerüchen auf der haut und/oder schleimhäuten und/oder hautanhangsgebilden

Info

Publication number
EP3941435A1
EP3941435A1 EP20728117.1A EP20728117A EP3941435A1 EP 3941435 A1 EP3941435 A1 EP 3941435A1 EP 20728117 A EP20728117 A EP 20728117A EP 3941435 A1 EP3941435 A1 EP 3941435A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
extract
lappaceum
advantageously
skin
composition
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP20728117.1A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Louis Danoux
Christine Jeanmaire
Jiaying He
Solène MINE
Zhi RAO
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
BASF SE
BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS
Original Assignee
BASF SE
BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from CN201910218708.7A external-priority patent/CN111714417A/zh
Application filed by BASF SE, BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS filed Critical BASF SE
Publication of EP3941435A1 publication Critical patent/EP3941435A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants

Definitions

  • Odors perceived as unpleasant have multiple origins such as environmental odors coming from the outside, urban or industrial type, from the indoor environment, such as those encountered in bathrooms, kitchens, toilets, laundry rooms, or still it can be unpleasant body odor. These odors can be classified according to the different families of odorous volatile organic compounds (VOCs) responsible for all or part of the perceived odors.
  • VOCs volatile organic compounds
  • the odors originate from volatile odorous compounds of several families including aromatic alcohols, aldehydes, aliphatic and cyclic hydrocarbons, ketones, esters, ethers, furans, lactones, sulfur compounds, terpenes.
  • odorous compounds usually perceived as unpleasant or unpleasant, we can mention among others sulfur compounds such as thiols (odors of onions, garlic), carboxylic acids (odor of sweat, vinegar, cheese), nitrogen compounds and amines (ammonia, nicotine, faecal odors).
  • Volatile compounds in the atmosphere from industrial activities in addition to their harmful consequences on health, are also perceived as unpleasant odors, in particular those from nitrogen compounds.
  • odorous compounds perceived as unpleasant are due to human activity, such as the cooking of food or the use of cleaning products, or even unpleasant body odors, in particular those induced by perspiration or by an imbalance skin or mucosal microbial flora.
  • compositions intended for household or cosmetic use for reducing odors comprise synthetic chemical molecules as odorous active ingredients. They are also found in perfume compositions. Plant extracts can be used, often in the form of essential oils. The purpose of these compositions is to mask unpleasant odors, by providing odorous notes perceived as positive, that is to say pleasant.
  • the N. lappaceum plant also called rambutan, is a tree found in Southeast Asia, Malaysia and Indonesia. It is a tree 10 to 20 meters tall, producing a large amount of fruit. The fruit is known for its organoleptic properties and contains sugars, vitamin C and iron. Decoctions of dried roots or leaves have been used to combat fever.
  • Rambutan extracts are already known in cosmetics for precise cosmetic effects.
  • applications JP2002145730 and CN105534812 respectively describe an extract of rambutan seeds for its antioxidant, whitening and moisturizing effect.
  • Rambutan oil is also known for its use for caring for keratin materials, in particular the hair. Mention will be made, inter alia, of application WO201118278 which discloses the use of rambutan seed oil for its use in a cosmetic composition for hair care.
  • the applicant has described in application WO201820300 the use of an extract of the plant N. lappaceum to increase the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes, as well as the use of an extract of the pericarp of said plant to hydrate. the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the cutaneous appendages in application WO2019025725.
  • a first object thus relates to the non-therapeutic use, advantageously the non-therapeutic cosmetic use, of an extract of N. lappaceum to prevent the appearance and / or reduce unpleasant odors, at the level of the skin and / or the mucous membranes. and / or skin appendages.
  • cosmetic use is meant a non-therapeutic use, that is to say a non-pharmaceutical or non-dermatological use, that is to say a use intended for all or part of the skin and / or of the mucous membrane and / or or healthy skin appendix.
  • health skin, mucous membranes or cutaneous appendages means skin, mucous membranes or cutaneous appendages which do not require therapeutic treatment, which do not present any infection, scar, disease, inflammation or skin disorder such as as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or wound, injury and / or other dermatosis.
  • skin is understood to mean any part of the body and / or of the face, including the scalp.
  • mucosa is understood to mean the nasal and / or oral and / or vaginal and / or anal mucosa, preferably the oral mucosa.
  • skin appendages means the nails and / or the hair, in particular the beard, and / or the hair, preferably the hair.
  • the extract according to the invention can be administered orally or topically. Preferably, it is applied topically.
  • the extract according to the invention is a topically acceptable extract, the term “topically acceptable” being understood to mean an extract which does not irritate the skin or the hair, which is non-toxic and which does not induce an allergic reaction.
  • topical application means the direct application of the extract or of a composition, advantageously cosmetic, comprising it at the level of the skin and / or of the mucous membranes and / or of the cutaneous appendages, or its vaporization at the level of the skin. surface of the skin and / or of the cutaneous appendages, preferably of the hair, and / or in the oral mucosa.
  • the non-therapeutic, advantageously cosmetic, use of the extract according to the invention comprises its topical application or that of a composition, advantageously cosmetic, comprising it on all or part of the body and / or face chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, Vietnameselleté, neck, arms, torso, back, face, advantageously the face, very advantageously the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes, advantageously the oral mucosa, and / or the cutaneous appendages, advantageously the hair.
  • a composition, advantageously cosmetic comprising it on all or part of the body and / or face chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, Vietnameselleté, neck, arms, torso, back, face, advantageously the face, very advantageously the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes, advantageously the oral mucosa, and / or the cutaneous appendages, advantageously the hair.
  • unpleasant odors means unpleasant odors and / or odors perceived as strong and / or perceived as nauseating, detected and / or detectable, advantageously at the level of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or skin appendages.
  • bad odors can be extrinsic odors such as those induced by pollution by exhaust gases, cooking odors, but they can also be intrinsic odors, that is to say body odors, and in particular those induced by a hormonal imbalance and / or induced by an imbalance of the cutaneous flora and / or mucosal and / or by perspiration.
  • odor is understood to mean any volatile compound detected by the human olfactory mucosa.
  • it is a malodorous volatile compound.
  • volatile compound is understood to mean an emitted chemical molecule of which the odor perception threshold is at least 0.2 pg / m 3 , advantageously at least 0.5 pg / m 3 , again advantageously at least lpg. / m 3 .
  • malodorous volatile compound also means a volatile compound having a nauseating odor and / or qualified as strong and / or unpleasant by a majority of the human population and / or perceived as such, advantageously by trained volunteers and / or experts. qualified as nose experts, and chosen from:
  • Butanal (CH 8 0; case n ° 123-72-8; molar mass 72.105 g / mol)
  • Octen-3-ol (C 8 Hi 6 0; case n ° 3391-86-4; molar mass 128.215 g / mol)
  • Acetone (C 3 H 6 0; case n ° 67-64-l; molar mass 58.080 g / mol)
  • Butyric acid (C 4 H 8 0 2 ; case n ° 107-92-6; molar mass 88.11 g / mol)
  • Pentylcyclopropane (C 8 H I6 ; case n ° 2511-91-3; molar mass 112.216 g / mol)
  • Nonane (C9H20; case n ° III-84-2; molar mass 128.259 g / mol)
  • Trimethyl-3, 3, 5-heptane (C10H22; case n ° 7154-80-5; molar mass 142.286 g / mol)
  • Methyl alcohol (CH 4 0; case n ° 67-56-l; molar mass 32.042 g / mol)
  • Butylcyclohexyl-1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid ester (Ci 8 H 2 0; case n ° 84-64-0; molar mass 304.38 g / mol),
  • Acetaldehyde (C 2 H 0; case n ° 75-07-0; molar mass 44.053 g / mol)
  • Acetone (C 3 H 6 0; case n ° 67-64-l; molar mass 58.080 g / mol)
  • Butylcyclohexyl-1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid ester (Ci 8 H 2 0; case n ° 84-64-0; molar mass 304.38 g / mol),
  • the odorous volatile compound is benzaldehyde (C 7 H 6 0; case n ° 100-52-7; molar mass 106.124 g / mol).
  • preventing the appearance and / or reducing unpleasant odors” in the area of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or cutaneous appendages is understood to mean precisely reducing the release of at least one volatile compound, advantageously malodorous, chosen from among the above compounds, at the level of the skin and / or the mucous membranes, preferably at the level of the oral mucosa, and / or of the cutaneous appendages, preferably of the hair.
  • the extract according to the invention is in an amount effective for preventing the appearance and / or reducing unpleasant odors at the level of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the cutaneous appendages when the amount of at least one malodorous volatile compound chosen from the above compounds, detected at the level of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the cutaneous appendages, is reduced by at least 10%, preferably by at least 15%, advantageously at least 20% and still advantageously at least 50% in the presence of the extract according to the invention or of a composition comprising it, in comparison with the quantity of the malodorous volatile compound detected without application of the extract according to the invention or of a composition comprising it, on the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the cutaneous appendages.
  • it is at least one malodorous volatile compound chosen from those mentioned above detected in a pollution chamber in the presence of skin and / or mucous membrane and / or skin appendages, which are subjected to exhaust gases, under the conditions as described in application WO2019020455.
  • it is at least one malodorous volatile compound chosen from those mentioned above detected in a pollution pocket in the presence of skin and / or mucous membrane and / or cutaneous appendages, which are subjected to a mixture. cooking odors.
  • this or these malodorous volatile compound (s) are not detected in the pollution chamber in the absence of exhaust gas or in the pollution pocket in the absence of the mixture of cooking odors.
  • the malodorous volatile compound (s) will be detected by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (CPG-MS), after thermal desorption on Tenax ® tubes.
  • CPG-MS mass spectrometry
  • this detection is carried out after application of the extract according to the invention or of a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising it on the hair, more preferably locks of hair, after exposure to the exhaust gases in a pollution chamber or exposure to the mixture of cooking smells.
  • said composition applied will comprise the extract according to the invention, preferably in a final concentration of 0.02% by weight of said extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • it is a seed extract, and even more preferably a seed extract prepared according to Example 1a) under the conditions described in Examples 2 and 3.
  • the extract according to the invention is also considered.
  • the application is carried out on the hair, advantageously locks of hair.
  • the composition applied will comprise an extract of N. lappaceum, advantageously in a final concentration of 0.02% by weight of said extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the extract is a seed extract and even more preferably it is the seed extract prepared according to example la) as described in example 2.
  • this detection of the intensity of the odorous volatile compound (s) is carried out by sensory analysis at the column outlet after separation of the volatile compounds by gas chromatography, said volatile compounds having been desorbed by thermal desorption on Tenax ® tubes, under the conditions described in Example 2.
  • the extract according to the invention is considered to be in an effective amount for preventing the appearance and / or reducing unpleasant odors in the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or skin appendages, when the mean grade value odors perceived on a scale of 1 to 9 is reduced by at least 1, advantageously by at least 2, after application to the skin and / or the cutaneous appendages and / or the mucous membranes, of the extract according to the invention or of a composition comprising it and then exposure to the exhaust gases in a pollution chamber, in comparison with the average grade value perceived under the same conditions in the absence of the extract according to the invention or of a composition comprising it , it being understood that the grade 1 value corresponds to the lowest perceived odor intensity and the value 9 corresponds to the highest.
  • this decrease in the mean grade value is evaluated by a panel of 30 volunteers, after olfactory analysis of locks of hair exposed to exhaust gases in a pollution chamber, under the conditions described in Example 4 .
  • the composition applied to the locks of hair will comprise an extract of N. lappaceum in a final concentration of 0.02% by weight of said extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • it is a seed extract, and more preferably it is the seed extract prepared according to Example 1a).
  • the extract according to the invention can be all or part of the N. lappaceum plant chosen from roots, leaves, seeds, fruit, branches, pericarp, pulp and stem.
  • it is an extract of fruit and / or leaves and / or seeds and / or pericarp and / or pulp. More preferably, it is a seed extract.
  • seed extract is understood to mean any extract of all or part of the N. lappaceum plant comprising the seeds, advantageously consisting of the seeds only.
  • the seed extract does not include the pericarp or the pulp.
  • the seed extract is therefore not a fruit extract.
  • pericarp is understood here to mean the shell of the fruit.
  • the extract can be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, chosen from maceration, hot decoction, by grinding including grinding with ultrasound, using a mixer, or else l
  • the extract can be obtained by extraction in water under subcritical or supercritical conditions (carbon dioxide). Preferably, the extraction is carried out by maceration.
  • the extraction can be carried out from dry or fresh material, advantageously dry, in an amount of 0.1% to 30% by weight, advantageously from 1% to 20%, very advantageously from 5% to 20%, again advantageously from 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the material and the extraction solvent.
  • the extraction can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4 ° C to 300 ° C.
  • the extraction is carried out at a temperature of 4 ° C to 25 ° C, more preferably from 4 ° C to 20 ° C, again advantageously at room temperature, that is to say - say at 20 ° C.
  • the extraction is carried out at a temperature of 60 ° C to 90 ° C, preferably from 70 ° C to 85 ° C, more preferably at a temperature of 80 ° C.
  • the extraction is carried out in water under subcritical conditions, at a temperature ranging from 100 ° C to 300 ° C, advantageously from 120 ° C to 250 ° C, again advantageously at 120 ° C.
  • the extraction can be carried out at a single given temperature or at successive increasing temperatures.
  • the extraction is carried out at a single temperature of 120 ° C.
  • it is carried out according to a gradient of three increasing temperatures between 100 ° C and 200 ° C, such as 120 ° C, 140 ° C then 160 ° C or 110 ° C, 130 ° C then 150 ° C , or alternatively 120 ° C, 145 ° C then 170 ° C.
  • subcritical conditions extraction is understood to mean extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature above 100 ° C. and pressure below 221 bars, such that the water remains in the liquid state but has a viscosity. and a surface tension lower than that of water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant.
  • the extraction pressure is between 150 bars and 250 bars, preferably between 200 and 221 bars, advantageously in a pressurized extraction autoclave.
  • the extract is obtained by extraction under supercritical conditions (C0 2 ).
  • the extract is obtained by extraction under supercritical conditions (C0 2 ) in the presence of a co-solvent.
  • the co-solvent is ethanol.
  • the extraction may be carried out in the presence of a solvent of C 6 -Ci 6 dialkyl carbonate type, as described in application WO2019020946 filed by the applicant.
  • the extraction comprises incubating the extract according to the invention with a solvent comprising at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent of at least one C 6 -Ci 6 dialkyl carbonate , and the separation of the extract and / or of the extracted compounds contained in the extract according to the invention.
  • said extraction comprises a step of immersing the extract according to the invention in a solvent comprising at least 50% by weight of at least one C 6 -Ci 6 dialkyl carbonate; a step of extracting the mixture obtained; and a step of separating the extract and / or the extracted compounds contained in the extract, comprising a step of centrifugation, filtration, evaporation, concentration, fractionation or purification or a combination of these steps.
  • the solvent comprising at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent of at least one C 6 -Ci 6 dialkyl carbonate and the extract according to the invention are used with a weight ratio included between 1: 1 and 100: 1, between 2: 1 and 100: 1 or between 5: 1 and 20: 1, for example at a ratio of 10: 1.
  • the C 6 -Ci 6 dialkyl carbonate is a C 7 -C 10 , preferably C 8, dialkyl carbonate.
  • it is dioctyl carbonate or diethylhexyl carbonate, preferably dioctyl carbonate.
  • the extraction step is carried out with or without agitation, with or without sonication, optionally under radiation (infrared, microwave), under pressure or under atmospheric conditions.
  • the extraction step can be assisted by microwaves and / or by ultrasound.
  • the extraction is carried out under atmospheric conditions.
  • the extraction is carried out for a period of 30 minutes to 24 hours, preferably 30 minutes to 12 hours, more preferably for a period of 1 hour to 5 hours, and again advantageously for a period of 1 hour to 2 hours. Very advantageously, the extraction is carried out over a period of 2 hours.
  • the extract according to the invention can alternatively be obtained by extraction in a solvent or mixture of solvents, preferably a practical polar solvent, and advantageously in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol mixture, water / glycol or water / polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols such as xylitol and / or propanediol, etc.) from 99/1 to 1/99 (p / p), advantageously in water as the sole solvent.
  • a solvent or mixture of solvents preferably a practical polar solvent, and advantageously in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol mixture, water / glycol or water / polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols such as xylitol and / or propanediol
  • the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction.
  • the term “extract obtained by aqueous extraction” means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight. , more particularly at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, even more advantageously not containing glycol and in particular not containing glycol. alcohol, more particularly containing only water.
  • the extract is obtained by extraction with a so-called green solvent, such as coconut water, advantageously under the conditions as described in application WO2018122514.
  • the extract is an extract of N. lappaceum seed oil.
  • the extract is obtained in a particular way by extraction under supercritical conditions (C0 2 ) or by extraction in a solvent of C 6 -Ci 6 dialkyl carbonate type or alternatively by extraction with heptane.
  • the extraction is carried out in the presence of a nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from lauryl glucoside marketed under the name Plantacare ® 1200UP by BASF or else caprylyl / capryl glucoside ( Plantacare ® 810 UP), preferably caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare ® 810 UP).
  • the concentration by weight of the nonionic surfactant is between 0.5% and 5%, advantageously between 0.5 and 1%, again advantageously it is 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.
  • the seed extract is obtained by maceration of an amount of 20% by weight of crushed seeds of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the solvent and of the seeds in water as solvent. , in water as the sole solvent, at a temperature of 20 ° C for a period of 2 hours.
  • the crude extract is centrifuged, decanted and then filtered (0.45 ⁇ m), under the conditions described in example la).
  • the extract is obtained by maceration of an amount of 20% by weight of crushed seeds of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the solvent and of the seeds, in water as the sole solvent, at a temperature of 20 ° C for a period of 2 hours.
  • the crude extract is centrifuged, decanted and then filtered.
  • the extract is then atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final amount of maltodextrin of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract, under the conditions described in Example 1b).
  • the extract is obtained by maceration of a quantity of 10% by weight of N. seeds lappaceum relative to the total weight of seeds and the solvent, in a mixture of ethanol: water (80: 20; v / v) as a solvent, at a temperature of 80 ° C for a period of 1 hour.
  • the crude extract is centrifuged, decanted and then filtered.
  • the extract is atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final amount of maltodextrin of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract under the conditions as described in example 1c).
  • the extract is obtained by maceration in water as a single solvent of an amount of 10% by weight of the dried pericarp N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of pericarp and water, for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 80 ° C.
  • the extract obtained is decanted, centrifuged and the supernatant is then filtered (Example 1d).
  • the extract is obtained by maceration in water as a single solvent of an amount of 10% by weight of pulp N. lappaceum, for a period of one hour at temperatures of 80 ° C.
  • the crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered (Example le).
  • the extract according to the invention is used alone or in a composition.
  • a cosmetic ingredient When it is used alone in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, it is preferably dissolved in an aqueous solution containing glycerin, advantageously present at a concentration of 60% to 90%, again advantageously from 70% to 85%, very advantageously at a concentration of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.
  • the extract is dissolved and / or diluted in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, such as pentylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol and / or caprylyl glycol, or one of their mixtures, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, again preferably containing a glycol chosen from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and their mixtures.
  • a particularly polar solvent such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, such as pentylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol and / or caprylyl glycol, or one of their mixtures, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, again preferably containing a glycol chosen from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and their mixtures.
  • the extract obtained is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, in particular containing between 0.1 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient.
  • the extract obtained is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol, preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.
  • the aqueous solution in which the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention is solubilized comprises xanthan gum, in particular between 0.01 and 5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. , more particularly between 0.1 and 1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.
  • the solution in which the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention is solubilized comprises hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and xanthan gum.
  • the liquid extract obtained according to the invention is atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a concentration of 70% by weight to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the maltodextrin and of the extract, advantageously from 75% to 85%, and again advantageously at a concentration of 80% by weight of maltodextrin relative to the total weight of the maltodextrin and of the extract.
  • the extract is in the form of a powder.
  • Another subject relates to the use of an extract of N. lappaceum in a composition, advantageously a cosmetic composition, for preventing the appearance and / or reducing unpleasant odors, advantageously in the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or or skin appendages.
  • the extract of N. lappaceum in a composition, advantageously a cosmetic composition, for preventing the appearance and / or reducing unpleasant odors, advantageously in the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or or skin appendages.
  • the extract of N. lappaceum advantageously a cosmetic composition, for preventing the appearance and / or reducing unpleasant odors, advantageously in the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or or skin appendages.
  • lappaceum is used in a composition in the form of a solution, aqueous or oily, rinsing or not, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a milk, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a liquid soap, a dermatological bar, an ointment, a mousse, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, a hair care lotion, a deodorant, a toothpaste, a chewing gum, a solution for mouthwash, a shampoo, one after -shampoo, a hair mask, a sprayable solution, preferably for hair.
  • the cosmetic composition can be applied topically or administered orally.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
  • the extract according to the invention is present in the cosmetic composition, at a concentration of 1x10 4 % to 10%, preferentially 1x10 3 % to 5%, and even more preferably 1x10 2 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the extract of N. lappaceum is used in a cosmetic composition for the hair, advantageously in the form of conditioner, hair care lotion, mask for the hair, again advantageously. in the form of shampoo.
  • the excipient (s) used in the cosmetic composition are chosen from surfactants and / or emulsifiers, preservatives, buffering agents, chelating agents, denaturants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents , thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, mattifying agents, shining agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic excipients suitable for use in the present invention.
  • the excipient (s) are chosen from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, stabilizers based on sucrose, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters , titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methyl parabene, l 'ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin
  • the cosmetic composition can also comprise other ingredients having the same properties and inducing a synergistic effect or not with the extract according to the invention, or ingredient agents with complementary effects.
  • the extract can be combined with any other plant extract having similar properties for preventing the appearance and / or reducing unpleasant odors and / or any plant extract having the capacity to mask said odors, such as an extract mint, Mentha piperita, advantageously an extract of mint leaves, an extract of anise, an extract of Calendula officinalis, an extract of Commiphora myrrha, an extract of Camellia sinensis, Anthemis nobilis, Chamomilla recutita or Hordeum vulgar.
  • the extract can also be combined with plant extracts active as an anti-pollution agent, such as an extract of Argania spinosa marketed under the name Arganyl TM by the applicant, and / or agents for regulating the skin microbiota.
  • Another subject still relates to the use of the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention in the form of an active ingredient, in particular cosmetic, for preventing the appearance and / or reducing unpleasant odors, as defined herein. invention.
  • the extract according to the invention is used in a composition, advantageously a composition for domestic use, advantageously also deodorant.
  • a composition for domestic use advantageously also deodorant.
  • These compositions may be used in liquid and / or gel and / or spray form, advantageously as a spray, and may contain one or more other ingredients having the same properties and inducing a synergistic effect or not with the extract according to the invention. , and / or ingredients with complementary effects.
  • the extract according to the invention can be combined with any other plant extract having similar properties for preventing the appearance and / or reducing unpleasant odors and / or any plant extract having the ability to mask said odors, optionally in the form of an essential oil extract, such as an extract of mint, Mentha piperita, advantageously an extract of mint leaves, an extract of anise, an extract of Calendula officinalis, an extract of Commiphora myrrha, an extract of Camellia sinensis, Anthemis nobilis, Chamomilla recutita or Hordeum vulgare.
  • an essential oil extract such as an extract of mint, Mentha piperita, advantageously an extract of mint leaves, an extract of anise, an extract of Calendula officinalis, an extract of Commiphora myrrha, an extract of Camellia sinensis, Anthemis nobilis, Chamomilla recutita or Hordeum vulgare.
  • a final subject of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic care process, advantageously cosmetic, comprising the topical or oral administration, preferably the topical application, of the extract according to the invention or of a composition, advantageously cosmetic, comprising it, to prevent the appearance and / or reduce unpleasant odors, at the level of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the cutaneous appendages.
  • the cosmetic care process comprises the topical application to all or part of the body chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, neckline. , the neck, the arms, the torso, the back, the face, the scalp, and / or the mucous membranes and / or the cutaneous appendages, advantageously the hair.
  • the care process will comprise the oral administration of a composition comprising the extract of N. lappaceum, advantageously in liquid or gel or chewing gum form to prevent the appearance and / or reduce unpleasant odors. at the level of the mucous membranes, advantageously of the oral mucosa.
  • the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius and the pressure is atmospheric pressure.
  • Example 1 Methods of preparing the extract according to the invention
  • the extracts prepared below are extracts of the Nephelium lappaceum plant from Vietnam.
  • Example la An amount of 20% by weight of ground seeds of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the solvent and the seeds was obtained by maceration in water as a solvent, at a temperature of 20 ° C for a period of time. 2 hour period. The crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and then filtered.
  • Example lb An amount of 20% by weight of ground seeds of N. lappaceum based on the total weight of the solvent and the seeds was obtained by maceration in water as a solvent, at a temperature of 20 ° C for a period of time. 2 hour period.
  • the crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and then filtered.
  • the extract was atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final amount of maltodextrin of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract.
  • Example le An amount of 10% by weight of ground seeds of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the solvent and of the seeds was obtained by maceration in an ethanol: water mixture (80:20; v / v) as solvent, at a temperature of 80 ° C for a period of 1 hour.
  • the crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and then filtered.
  • the extract was atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final amount of maltodextrin of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract.
  • Example 1d An amount of 10% by weight of dried pericarp of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of pericarp and water as the sole solvent was extracted by maceration for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 80 ° C. . The extract obtained was decanted, centrifuged and the supernatant was then filtered.
  • Example le The extraction was carried out by maceration in water as the sole solvent from an amount of 10% by weight of fruit pulp of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the pulp and of the water , at a temperature of 80 ° C for a period of 1 hour. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.
  • Example 1f An amount of 10% by weight of dried leaves of N. lappaceum based on the total weight of leaves and water as the sole solvent was extracted by maceration for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 20 ° C. The extract obtained was decanted, centrifuged and the supernatant was then filtered.
  • Example lg A quantity of 10% of dried seeds was obtained by extraction with CO 2 under supercritical conditions, in the presence of ethanol as co-solvent (10%).
  • Protocol 1 locks of hair of Asian origin calibrated (2 g / 12 cm) were impregnated with an aqueous solution comprising a final concentration by weight of 0.02% of seed extract according to example 1a) relative to total weight of the composition or with the same aqueous solution containing only distilled water (Control), at a rate of 2 ml per 2 g of locks of hair.
  • wicks were then placed in a so-called hermetic urban pollution chamber as described in application WO2019020455, then subjected to exhaust gases from a gasoline engine for a period of 20 minutes, in continuous circulation. When the engine was stopped, the wicks were left in contact with this polluted atmosphere for an additional 4 hours.
  • PTFE polytetrafluoroethylene
  • Nalophane TM polyethylene terephthalate
  • the bags were filled with neutral air and a fraction of the container was desorbed on a thermal desorption tube (Tenax ® ) for analysis by gas chromatography.
  • Protocol 2 the above protocol was reproduced and the volatile compounds desorbed on Tenax ® tubes were separated by gas chromatography then analyzed at the column outlet by two nose experts using a rethreading module (Analysis sensory). For each volatile compound analyzed, the experts described its intensity and odor (Table 3). Results:
  • Example 3 Detection of volatile odorous compounds by gas chromatography (CPG-Toff SM) and sensory analysis: reduction of bad cooking odors in the presence of the extract according to the invention.
  • Protocol strands of European hair were calibrated (2.7g / 25cm3 ⁇ 4. Washed with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS sodium lauryl sulfate) at 15%, rinsed and gently dried at room temperature (that is to say at a temperature temperature of 20 ° C).
  • SLS sodium lauryl sulfate sodium lauryl sulfate
  • aqueous solution comprising a final concentration by weight of 0.02% of the extract of N. lappaceum according to example la) relative to the total weight of the medium was applied to the locks of hair using a micropipette.
  • a mixture was prepared using defined amounts of the following compounds 2, 3-butanedione (cas No. 431-03-8), thiophene (cas No. 110-02- 1), butyric acid (N ° cas 107-92-6), methional (N ° cas 3268-49-3), 2-acetylpyrasine (22047- 25-2), characteristics of bad cooking odors.
  • Example 4 Analysis of olfactory perception (panelists or trained volunteers)
  • Example 5 the average grade perceived by the panel of 30 volunteers decreased under the condition for which the locks of hair were impregnated with the composition comprising the extract according to the invention.
  • the extract of N. lappaceum therefore has the capacity to reduce unpleasant odors in the hair after exposure to exhaust gases.
  • Example 5 Example of a cosmetic ingredient comprising the extract of N. lappaceum.
  • Example 6a3 ⁇ 4 Cosmetic formulations for the body
  • composition below is prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular with regard to the various phases to be mixed together.
  • the amounts indicated are in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Example 6b3 ⁇ 4 Cosmetic formulations for the hair

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EP20728117.1A 2019-03-21 2020-03-19 Neue nicht-therapeutische verwendung eines extrakts von nephelium lappaceum zur verhinderung und/oder verringerung von unangenehmen gerüchen auf der haut und/oder schleimhäuten und/oder hautanhangsgebilden Pending EP3941435A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201910218708.7A CN111714417A (zh) 2019-03-21 2019-03-21 红毛丹提取物的非治疗性用途
FR1903184A FR3093925A1 (fr) 2019-03-21 2019-03-27 Nouvelle utilisation non thérapeutique d’un extrait de Nephelium lappaceum pour prévenir l’apparition et/ou diminuer les odeurs désagréables au niveau de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou des annexes cutanées.
PCT/FR2020/050599 WO2020188224A1 (fr) 2019-03-21 2020-03-19 Nouvelle utilisation non thérapeutique d'un extrait de nephelium lappaceum pour prévenir l'apparition et/ou diminuer les odeurs désagréables au niveau de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou des annexes cutanées

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JP2002145730A (ja) 2000-11-10 2002-05-22 Katakura Chikkarin Co Ltd 化粧料
DE102009028538A1 (de) 2009-08-14 2011-02-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Zusammensetzungen zur Haarpflege enthaltend Rambutanöl
CN104274384A (zh) * 2014-09-05 2015-01-14 拉芳家化股份有限公司 一种含有生物抑菌剂的香体沐浴露
CN105534812A (zh) 2016-01-19 2016-05-04 中山百鸥医药科技有限公司 一种精华液及其制备方法
WO2018020299A1 (en) 2016-07-29 2018-02-01 Chan Kam Fu Lossless compression and decompression methods
FR3061416B1 (fr) 2016-12-29 2021-06-18 Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas Utilisation de l'eau de coco comme solvant d'extraction
CN207694811U (zh) 2017-07-28 2018-08-07 巴斯夫欧洲公司 城市污染环境模拟装置
FR3069450B1 (fr) 2017-07-28 2020-08-14 Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas Utilisation de carbonate de dialkyle comme solvant d'extraction
FR3069779A1 (fr) 2017-08-02 2019-02-08 Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas Utilisation d'un extrait de pericarpe de nephelium lappaceum pour hydrater la peau et/ou les muqueuses

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