EP3736366A1 - Tricot jacquard à mailles jetées double face et procédé pour sa réalisation - Google Patents

Tricot jacquard à mailles jetées double face et procédé pour sa réalisation Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3736366A1
EP3736366A1 EP19182498.6A EP19182498A EP3736366A1 EP 3736366 A1 EP3736366 A1 EP 3736366A1 EP 19182498 A EP19182498 A EP 19182498A EP 3736366 A1 EP3736366 A1 EP 3736366A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
outer layer
jacquard
stitches
yarns
knitted spacer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP19182498.6A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Bogdan Sitarz
Anna SITARZ
Maciej Sitarz
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Sitarz Wieslawa
Original Assignee
Sitarz Wieslawa
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Sitarz Wieslawa filed Critical Sitarz Wieslawa
Publication of EP3736366A1 publication Critical patent/EP3736366A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B27/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B27/10—Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B27/24—Thread guide bar assemblies
    • D04B27/32—Thread guide bar assemblies with independently-movable thread guides controlled by Jacquard mechanisms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/021—Lofty fabric with equidistantly spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics

Definitions

  • the present disclosure relates to a jacquard knitted spacer fabric and a method for producing thereof.
  • Known knitted spacer fabrics consist of two separate layers: a first outer layer that constitutes a top layer of the fabric (visible to the user), and a bottom outer layer that constitutes a bottom (base) layer of the fabric.
  • the layers are connected by connecting yarns that constitute an inner layer of the fabric.
  • the inner layer also called a spacer layer, confers transverse elasticity to the fabric.
  • the knitted spacer fabrics of the construction as described above are produced using Raschel warp knitting machines.
  • the Raschel machines comprise primary guide rollers, also called yarn guide bars, which are used to produce a first outer layer, a second outer layer and an inner layer of the knitted spacer fabric.
  • the Raschel machines known in prior art may have, for example, two yarn guide bars per each layer of the fabric. Consequently, the machine may comprise two yarn guide bars of the second outer layer 11 - for producing the bottom layer, two yarn guide bars of the first outer layer 12 - for producing the top layer and two yarn guide bars of the inner layer 13 for producing the inner layer of the knitted spacer fabric.
  • Raschel machines may be further provided with jacquard yarn guide bars, also called jacquard guide bars, presented as components 14 in Fig. 1 - for producing a decorative jacquard in the first (top) outer layer of the knitted spacer fabric.
  • jacquard yarn guide bars also called jacquard guide bars
  • Standard working components of the Raschel machine further include: beater reed rollers 21a, 21b of respectively a front needle bar 230 and of a back needle bar 220; heads with needles 22a, 22a of the front needle bar 230 and of the back needle bar 220; and extraction reed rollers 23a, 23b of the front needle bar 230 and of the back needle bar 220.
  • the front needle bars 230 and the back needle bars 220 are presented in Fig. 1 in xy plane and on the three-dimensional conceptual model, in the xyz coordinate system illustrating the direction of movement of the respective guide bars.
  • the term front needle bar 230 denotes the back component of the beater reed rollers 21b
  • the term back needle bar 220 denotes the front component of the beater reed rollers 21a.
  • the second outer layer of the fabric is produced by means of the yarn guide bars 11, while the first outer layer of the fabric is produced by means of the yarn guide bars 12 on the back needle bar 220.
  • the inner layer of the fabric is produced by means of yarn guide bars 13 of the inner layer operating alternately on the front needle bar 230 and on the back needle bar 220.
  • the jacquard that is produced using the jacquard yarn guide bars 14, is only made on the back needle bar 220, which allows to obtain decorative jacquard only in one, first outer layer of the knitted spacer fabric, that constitutes the top layer that is visible to the user.
  • the entire guide bar array 11, 12, 13, 14 moves relative to the front needle bar 230 and to the back needle bar 220 in the direction schematically indicated in Fig. 1 with the arrow 201 - i.e. in the plane of the drawing (xy).
  • the jacquard yarn guide bars 14 move, in the course of producing the jacquard in the first outer layer, in the plane of the back needle bar 220 (yz) - perpendicularly to the plane of the drawing, as schematically indicated by the arrow 202.
  • the perpendicular movement 202 of the jacquard yarn guide bars 14 takes place only on the back needle bar 220.
  • Fig. 1 shows an xyz coordinate system in a conceptual 3D model illustrating the spatial distribution of the front needle bars 230 and of the back needle bars 220.
  • the movement of the jacquard yarn guide bars 14 in the course of producing the jacquard takes place only on the back needle bar 220 - in the yz plane, as schematically indicated by arrow 202, while the movement of the entire guide bar array 11, 12, 13, 14 in the course of producing the first, second and inner layers of the knitted spacer fabric, respectively, takes place in the xy plane on the front needle bar 230 and on the back needle bar 220, as schematically indicated by the arrow 201.
  • jacquard is meant to denote decorative graphics (a pattern) obtained using stitches woven directly into the outer layer of the knitted spacer fabric.
  • the jacquard guide bars 14 are supplied with yarns in a colour that matches the colour of the yarns supplied to the guide bars 11, 12, 13 that produce the knitted spacer fabric.
  • a jacquard pattern is designed first and then input to a computer programme that controls the operation of the Raschel machine, including the operation of the jacquard yarn guide bars 14.
  • Fig. 2A presents schematically a typical prior art knitted spacer fabric with the jacquard viewed from the side of the top layer with the jacquard
  • Fig. 2B presents the fabric viewed from the inner layer thereof.
  • the knitted spacer fabric has a first outer layer 30 with interwoven jacquard 31 constituting a decorative pattern, made with yarns of a colour that matches the colour of the yarns forming the first outer layer 30 (the black marking in Figs. 2A, 2B is only intended to show the location of the jacquard yarns in the structure of the knitted spacer fabric).
  • the knitted spacer fabric also has a second outer layer 32 and an inner spacer layer 33. This knitted spacer fabric is produced by a known method, wherein the jacquard yarn guide bars 14 make jacquard by operating only on the back needle bar 220.
  • Patent documents disclose various methods for producing knitted spacer fabrics.
  • a PCT application WO2018227396 discloses a jacquard warp knitting Raschel machine that enables multi-colour knitting.
  • the Raschel machine consists of a casing with two needle bars facing each other and is provided with a support needle bar and a spool rack.
  • the machine also has a first and second heads spaced apart so that they form a gap.
  • the yarns division plate, guide rollers, tension column and jacquard beam of the machine are mounted below the first head of the machine.
  • the jacquard head is designed to knit on the first and second needles, while the first and second head of said machine supply the yarns to the front and back needles.
  • a jacquard knitted spacer fabric comprising: a first outer layer 41 having first outer layer stitches 411, a second outer layer 42 having second outer layer stitches 421 and an inner layer 43 having inner layer stitch connectors 43b that connect the first outer layer stitches 411 with the second outer layer stitches 432.
  • the first outer layer 41 has an interwoven first outer layer jacquard 41a with first outer layer jacquard stitches 411a.
  • the second outer layer 42 has an interwoven second outer layer jacquard 42a with second outer layer jacquard stitches 421a
  • the inner layer 43 comprises jacquard stitch connectors 43a that connect the first outer layer jacquard stitches 411a with the second outer layer jacquard stitches 421a.
  • the first outer layer 41 has a weave selected from the group consisting of: left and right, left and right plated, chain and a broadcloth-type weave.
  • the first outer layer 41 comprises artificial yarns.
  • the first outer layer 41 is made entirely of artificial yarns.
  • the first outer layer 41 comprises yarns having a thickness between 10 and 300 den.
  • the second outer layer 42 has a weave selected from the group consisting of left and right, left and right plated, chain and a broadcloth-type weave.
  • the second outer layer 42 comprises artificial yarns.
  • the second outer layer 42 is made entirely of artificial yarns.
  • the second outer layer 42 comprises yarns of a thickness between 10 and 300 den.
  • the inner layer 43 comprises yarns of a thickness between 10 and 300 den.
  • the jacquard yarns have a thickness between 10 and 300 den.
  • Another aspect of the present disclosure is a method for producing a jacquard knitted spacer fabric by means of a Raschel machine, the method comprising the steps of: forming a first outer layer 41 with first outer layer stitches 411, by means of yarn guide bars 112 of the first outer layer operating on a back needle bar 420, forming a second outer layer 42 with second outer layer stitches 421, by means of yarn guide bars 111 of the second outer layer operating on a front needle bar 430, forming an inner layer 43 with inner layer stitch connectors 43b that connect the first outer layer stitches 411 with the second outer layer stitches 421, by means of yarn guide bars 113 of the inner layer operating alternately on the front needle bar 430 and on the back needle bar 420, forming a first outer layer jacquard pattern 41a with first outer layer jacquard stitches 411a from a jacquard yarns, in the first outer layer 41, by using jacquard yarn guide bars 114 operating on the back needle bar 420.
  • the method comprises further comprises the steps of forming a second outer layer jacquard pattern 42a with second outer layer jacquard stitches 421a from jacquard yarns, in the second outer layer 42, by means of jacquard yarn guide bars 114 operating on the front needle bar 430.
  • Forming the inner layer 43 further comprises forming jacquard stitch connectors 43a that connect the first outer layer jacquard stitches 411a with the second outer layer jacquard stitches 421a, when the jacquard yarn guide bars 114 pass between the front needle bar 430 and the back needle bar 420.
  • the jacquard knitted spacer fabric according to the present disclosure is preferably a wale knitted fabric.
  • Fig. 3A shows schematically the jacquard knitted spacer fabric according to the present disclosure with invisible yarns of the inner layer (for better drawing clarity) and Fig. 3B shows said fabric with visible yarns of the inner layer (in Fig. 3A the course of the jacquard yarns is better visible).
  • the jacquard knitted spacer fabric comprises two outer layers: a second outer layer 42 with second outer layer stitches 421, constituting the bottom layer of the fabric.
  • the fabric also comprises a first outer layer 41 with first outer layer stitches 411 constituting the top layer of the fabric.
  • the fabric further comprises an inner layer 43 with inner layer stitch connectors 43b.
  • the inner layer 43 is made of connecting yarns (also referred to as crosslinkers) shaped into the inner layer stitch connectors 43b that connect both outer layers of the knitted spacer fabric.
  • the outer layers 41, 42 may have various weaves, for example: left and right, left and right plated, chain, broadcloth, or other weaves, wherein the second outer layer of 42 may have a weave identical or different to the weave of the first outer layer of 41, depending on its final appearance and intended use.
  • the connecting yarns of the inner layer 43 may, however, have a various course of the inner layer stitch connectors 43b.
  • the connecting yarns may extend in the knitted spacer fabric to form a symmetrical weave of parallel inner layer stitch connectors 43b of connecting yarns as shown by way of example in Fig. 3B , or an asymmetrical herringbone weave of the diagonally arranged inner layer stitch connectors 43b of connecting yarns or other weaves.
  • the weave of the inner layer 43 and of the outer layers 41, 42 of the jacquard knitted spacer fabric according to the disclosure may vary depending on the target appearance and intended use thereof.
  • the knitted spacer fabric according to the present disclosure further has a second outer layer jacquard 42a with second outer layer jacquard stitches 421a and a first outer layer jacquard 41a with first outer layer jacquard stitches 411a, made in the second outer layer 42 and in the first outer layer 41, respectively, wherein the jacquards 41a, 42a are made of the same yarns - as schematically shown in Fig. 3
  • the yarns forming the first outer layer jacquard stitches 411a also extend in the inner layer 43 as jacquard stitch connectors 43a. These yarns are further shaped into the second outer layer jacquard stitches 421a.
  • the jacquard knitted spacer fabric according to the present disclosure provides the effect in the form of complementary jacquards 41a, 42a, that is to say decorative jacquard patterns in which the first outer layer jacquard stitches 411a and the second outer layer jacquard stitches 421a extend respectively in the first outer layer 41 and in the second outer layer 42 as shown in Fig. 3
  • the knitted spacer fabric according to the present disclosure is advantageous i.a. in that, the yarns forming the first outer layer jacquard stitches 411a are selectively transferred to the second outer layer, where they form the second outer layer jacquard stitches 421a.
  • the jacquard yarns forming the second outer layer jacquard stitches 421a are invisible to an observer viewing the fabric from the first outer layer 41 thereof, which allows to create more complex and diverse first outer layer jacquard patterns 41a. Furthermore, use of jacquard yarns having a colour, thickness, texture or electrical conductivity characteristics different from other yarns of such fabric allows for obtaining jacquard patterns with different characteristics, including, for example, the electrical conductivity characteristic.
  • the above effect of the obtained complementarity of the jacquard patterns 41a and 42a is aesthetically advantageous, as the user can see the first outer layer jacquard pattern 41a (visible from the first side of the fabric) and the corresponding second outer layer jacquard pattern 42a (visible from the second side of the fabric).
  • both the second outer layer 42 and the first outer layer 41 can play the role of the top layer, depending on the target appearance, needs and individual preferences of the user, since each of these layers is decorated with jacquard pattern.
  • the fabric according to the disclosure allows for the manufacture of two-sided products, i.e. products decorated with jacquard on both sides.
  • an important feature of the knitted spacer fabric according to the present disclosure is that it provides improved exposure of the jacquard pattern of the first outer layer due to the possibility of using a colour of the jacquard yarns or a type of jacquard yarns that is different than those of the other yarns of the first outer layer and of the second outer layer, such as jacquard yarns with metal threads.
  • jacquard yarns with metal threads allows producing electroconductive paths of complex architecture on the surface of the fabric.
  • An additional advantage of the jacquard knitted spacer fabric according to the present disclosure is the possibility to produce the first outer layer jacquard 41a and the second outer layer jacquard 42a in a single processing step, wherein the decorative jacquard is simultaneously produced on both sides of the fabric.
  • Fig. 4 schematically shows a method for producing the jacquard knitted spacer fabric according to the present disclosure.
  • the knitted spacer fabric can be produced by means of a modified Raschel machine, which is based on a known Raschel machine and is provided with at least two yarn guide bars 111 of the second outer layer yarns operating only on the front needle bar 430, at least two yarn guide bars 112 of the first outer layer operating only on the back needle bar 420, at least one (preferably: two) yarn guide bars 113 of the inner layer yarns operating alternately on the front needle bar 430 and on the back needle bar 420, and jacquard guide bars 114.
  • a modified Raschel machine which is based on a known Raschel machine and is provided with at least two yarn guide bars 111 of the second outer layer yarns operating only on the front needle bar 430, at least two yarn guide bars 112 of the first outer layer operating only on the back needle bar 420, at least one (preferably: two) yarn guide bars 113 of the inner layer yarns operating alternately on
  • the jacquard yarn guide bars 114 move in a perpendicular direction 402 (i.e. perpendicular to the plane of the drawing xy) when operating on the back needle bar 420 - that is to say, in the same manner as in the known solutions, as schematically indicated by the arrow 402 in Fig. 4 and by the arrow 202 in Fig. 1 .
  • the guide bars 114 of the jacquard yarns move in a perpendicular direction 403 (i.e. perpendicular to the plane of the drawing xy) while operating on the front needle bar 430, which distinguishes the present disclosure from the prior art solutions, as schematically indicated by the arrow 403 in Fig. 4
  • the guide bars 114 of the jacquard yarns are fed with yarns of a colour (or type) different than the yarns for the first outer layer 41 or the second outer layer 42, in order to create a coloured jacquard 41a and 42a interwoven into both the first outer layer 41 and the second outer layer 42.
  • the jacquard yarn guide bars 114 are piezoelectric components.
  • the yarns fed to the jacquard guide bars 114 may also have a different thickness than the yarns fed to the guide bars 111, 112 of the first or second outer layer.
  • the movement of the jacquard guide bars 114 from the back to the front needle bar and vice versa forms jacquard stitch connectors 43a in the inner layer 43 thereof.
  • Fig. 5A shows a photo of an exemplary jacquard knitted spacer fabric made using the method according to the present disclosure viewed from the side of the first outer layer, while Fig. 5B shows said fabric viewed from the side of the second outer layer.
  • the fabric has a first outer layer made of polyester yarns having a thickness of 100 den, a second outer layer made of polyester yarns having a thickness of 100 den and an inner layer (not shown in Figs. 5A and 5B ) made of yarns having a thickness of 30 den. Moreover, the fabric has first outer layer jacquards ( Fig. 5A ) and second outer layer jacquards ( Fig. 5B ) made of polyester yarns having a thickness of 100 den. Between the first outer layer and the second outer layer, the fabric has an inner layer (not shown in Figs. 5A and 5B ) comprising stitch connectors of the inner layer made of yarns with a thickness of 100 den, as well as jacquard stitch connectors connecting the jacquard stitches of the first outer layer with the jacquard stitches of the second outer layer.
  • the method for producing a jacquard knitted spacer fabric according to the present disclosure is advantageous in that it offers a possibility to produce a fabric with a jacquard pattern in its first outer layer and a corresponding jacquard pattern in its second outer layer - in a single technological operation of knitting.
  • An additional advantage of the presented method is that it does not require modification of the design of the guide bar system of the Raschel machine, including elements 11, 111, 12, 112, 13, 113, 14, 114.
  • the jacquard knitted spacer fabric is made entirely of artificial yarns, such as polyester or polyamide, wherein each layer of the knitted spacer fabric and the jacquard can be made of a different type of yarns.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
EP19182498.6A 2019-05-10 2019-06-26 Tricot jacquard à mailles jetées double face et procédé pour sa réalisation Withdrawn EP3736366A1 (fr)

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EP19461536 2019-05-10

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113564798A (zh) * 2021-06-22 2021-10-29 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种带花梳三明治贾卡花边提花工艺网布及其制作方法

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2618266A1 (de) * 1976-04-27 1977-11-17 Walter Schmidt Verfahren zur herstellung gemusterter plueschwaren auf zweibarrigen raschelmaschinen
EP1380678A1 (fr) * 2002-07-10 2004-01-14 TEXTILES ET PLASTIQUES CHOMARAT (Société anonyme) Tricot double face et complexe incorporant un tel tricot
US20180327938A1 (en) * 2017-05-11 2018-11-15 Sincetech (Fujian) Technology Co., Ltd. Weaving method of double-jacquard mesh cloth
WO2018227396A1 (fr) 2017-06-13 2018-12-20 福建华峰新材料有限公司 Nouveau métier jacquard à mailles jetées pour tissu multicolore tridimensionnel

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2618266A1 (de) * 1976-04-27 1977-11-17 Walter Schmidt Verfahren zur herstellung gemusterter plueschwaren auf zweibarrigen raschelmaschinen
EP1380678A1 (fr) * 2002-07-10 2004-01-14 TEXTILES ET PLASTIQUES CHOMARAT (Société anonyme) Tricot double face et complexe incorporant un tel tricot
US20180327938A1 (en) * 2017-05-11 2018-11-15 Sincetech (Fujian) Technology Co., Ltd. Weaving method of double-jacquard mesh cloth
WO2018227396A1 (fr) 2017-06-13 2018-12-20 福建华峰新材料有限公司 Nouveau métier jacquard à mailles jetées pour tissu multicolore tridimensionnel

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113564798A (zh) * 2021-06-22 2021-10-29 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种带花梳三明治贾卡花边提花工艺网布及其制作方法
CN113564798B (zh) * 2021-06-22 2024-05-10 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种带花梳三明治贾卡花边提花工艺网布及其制作方法

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