EP3668603A1 - Permanent colouring composition in gel or cream form - Google Patents

Permanent colouring composition in gel or cream form

Info

Publication number
EP3668603A1
EP3668603A1 EP18765364.7A EP18765364A EP3668603A1 EP 3668603 A1 EP3668603 A1 EP 3668603A1 EP 18765364 A EP18765364 A EP 18765364A EP 3668603 A1 EP3668603 A1 EP 3668603A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
extract
composition according
hair
composition
coloring
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP18765364.7A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Fabienne RAYNIER
Cécile GOUZON
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Laboratoire Isatis
Original Assignee
Laboratoire Isatis
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
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Application filed by Laboratoire Isatis filed Critical Laboratoire Isatis
Publication of EP3668603A1 publication Critical patent/EP3668603A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the coloration of hair and hair, in particular compositions based on natural dyestuffs.
  • the invention relates to compositions in the form of a gel or a cream comprising an extract which makes it possible to attach the coloration to the hair fiber.
  • the invention also relates to a process for obtaining such a composition and its use for permanently coloring hair and / or hair.
  • oxidation chemical stains which represent the main class of products currently used.
  • These products are composed of colorless precursors of dyes, called oxidation bases which, combined with strongly oxidizing products (hydrogen peroxide) and at a high pH, give rise by a process of oxidative condensation to colored compounds within the hair fiber.
  • plant dyes consisting of a mixture of crushed plants applied as a poultice to the hair after dispersion in hot water.
  • Three main plants are used for all references currently marketed: henna leaves (Lawsonia inermis: orange), indigo leaves (Indigofera tinctoria or gludolosa: blue) and cassia leaves (Cassia obovata: little dye) .
  • “Mixed” stains which are oxidation dyes to which vegetable coloring extracts have been added. These compositions are formulated on the same principle as chemical staining, the addition of vegetable dye extracts being more a marketing argument than a real benefit in terms of hue obtained and safety.
  • Temporary coloring they are usually used to temporarily hide the white hair or to add a shade to the natural shade.
  • the temporary coloring acts on the outside of the cuticle and adds a color to the surface of the hair. It can not lighten dark hair and only very rarely resists shampooing. They exist in several galenic: rinses, coloring foams, hair mascaras, sprays dyes but also shampoos or colored care that "ensure" a relative longevity to the oxidation coloring.
  • Semi-permanent stains are designed to deposit the color on the surface of the hair and have no lightening effect.
  • the formula includes an activator that develops the color and helps to expand the cuticle so that the color can settle.
  • the semi-permanent color does not penetrate the cortex and lasts only six to eight weeks, fading with the shampoo.
  • o Semi-permanent coloring is also deposited without lightening effect.
  • the molecules used are smaller and penetrate into the cortex of the hair, which allows them to be deposited on and in the cuticle.
  • the semi-permanent color is considered more effective for covering white hair. The color lasts longer and does not fade with the shampoo.
  • Permanent oxidation dyes they are made to penetrate the hair permanently and deposit the color directly in the hair cortex. Their formulas contain a developer that dilates the cuticle and allows molecules to enter the cortex. These stains also contain aniline derivatives that combine with hydrogen peroxide to produce larger tinted molecules that remain "trapped" in the cortex. Thanks to their formulation, permanent stains are able to deposit colors, but they can also be used to lighten the hair color, all depending on the dose of hydrogen peroxide included in the formulation.
  • the plant coloring is historically recognized especially in Eastern beauty rites.
  • the natural color coats the hair and forms a protective sheath around it.
  • the coloring molecules bind to the upper layers of the hair fiber and gradually fade.
  • Existing ranges of plant stains consist mainly of powdered coloring plants, micronized soy protein, alginate, thermal rock crystals, etc. In particular some historical plants are known and currently used for particular their ability to hang on the hair.
  • Henna that allows a durable grip on the hair that does not fade over time. But it has the major disadvantage of offering only warm, coppery tones. Its advantage is certain in different types of formulations but deprives hairdressers and its users of another category of colors, especially cold tones such as dark chestnuts, neutral chestnuts and ashes.
  • the natural colors apply in one or two stages with a long exposure time (minimum 1:30) and using a steam helmet which represents a Deaf investment and additional energy expenditure.
  • the ranges are limited.
  • Its galenic poultice is friable and heavy (about 300 g of poultice to apply constituted with 150 g of coloring powder which must be mixed with water), it is unpleasant to the application and rinsing both for the hairdresser and for the person who is coloring the hair.
  • the reproducibility of the color is random, the dark brown and the blond are very difficult to obtain, the colors of degrade in the time and the cover of the white hair is insufficient.
  • the object of the invention is to provide a product which overcomes all the disadvantages of the prior art coloring products, in particular a product which has the advantages of both natural and chemical colorations, without presenting the same. disadvantages.
  • the subject of the invention is a composition in the form of a gel or a cream comprising at least one solvent and at least one Lawsonia inermis extract, the said extract being present between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. .
  • Lawsonia inermis is a naturally occurring plant in the tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, South Asia and Australasia. It contains a particular molecule, dyestuff, lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) of formula:
  • It also includes naphthoquinone derivatives, phenolic compounds, terpenoids, sterols, aliphatic derivatives, xanthones, coumarin, fatty acids, and amino acids.
  • Lawsonia inermis leaf powder produces red, yellow and orange hues, used in textile and body dyeing (coloring and hair care, ephemeral skin tattoos) for centuries. Its orange color is often very unsightly in some formulations.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an extract of Lawsonia inermis, mixed with a solvent, and in a small amount (less than 10%).
  • this extract under these conditions allows:
  • the composition according to the invention has many other advantages. It is a permanent color that works perfectly without synthetic product, non-toxic and does not alter the hair fiber, without unsightly reflection over time. In addition the invention has a rapid exposure time, a wide range of colors, reproducibility of tints, a pleasant galenic and easy to use, there is no mixing to perform, the composition in gel or cream form is ready to use.
  • the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a composition, and its use for permanent hair coloring.
  • FIG. 1 represents a scanning electron microscope image of a hair fiber damaged by a chemical composition-type oxidation dyeing
  • FIG. 3 shows an optical microscope image of a hair fiber colored in plant by a vegetable coloring of the composition object of the invention.
  • permanent coloring within the meaning of the invention is meant a durable coloration over time, where after 3 weeks (conventional time between 2 colorations), a demarcation is visible between the previously colored hair and the newly rooted hair. This is called a "root effect”.
  • extract of a raw material X within the meaning of the invention means a set of molecules obtained from all or part of said raw material X, but excludes biomass that is to say the raw material raw or powder form.
  • the subject of the invention is therefore a composition, in gel or cream form, comprising at least one solvent and at least one Lawsonia inermis extract, said Lawsonia inermis extract being present between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is therefore in the form of cream or gel.
  • it has a viscosity (measured according to the Brookfield DV-I Prime method) of at least 400 mPa.s measured at 20 ° C.
  • the Lawsonia inermis extract present in the composition represents in total between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Preferably it represents at least 1.8% and / or at most 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the Lawsonia inermis extract contains at least Loawsone.
  • the rate of Lawsone present in this extract is between 0.05% and 2%. It may contain other molecules such as naphthoquinone derivatives, phenolics, terpenoids, sterols, aliphatic derivatives, xanthones, coumarin, fatty acids, and amino acids.
  • the extract is preferably an extract which has been enriched in amino acids. This addition of amino acids in addition to those possibly present in the extract, may have been made at the time of extraction or after.
  • the amino acids of the extract including those initially present as a result of the extraction and those optionally added may represent in particular between 0.01% and 5% of the extract by weight of dry matter of the extract.
  • the extraction process is carried out from dry leaves of Lawsonia inermis at 15-55 ° C by solubilization followed by centrifugation, filtration, concentration and drying steps.
  • the Lawsonia inermis extract present in the composition according to the invention is an extract obtained from leaves of Lawsonia inermis.
  • the extract of Lawsonia inermis is mixed with a solvent in its cream or gel.
  • the solvent is preferably between 50 and 95% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the solvent present in the composition is a solvent compatible with cosmetic and / or capillary applications. It is very preferably a solvent without synthetic molecule and / or nontoxic, and environmentally friendly.
  • the solvent may in particular be water or an aqueous-alcoholic solution, and in particular an aqueous-alcoholic solution comprising at least 50% water by weight or by volume.
  • the coloration obtained when the composition is applied to white hair may be a blond color, more or less pronounced depending on the amount of extracted in the composition.
  • the lawsonia inermis extract is the only coloring molecule present in the composition according to the invention, it is preferably in gel form.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one other coloring molecule, in addition to that contained in the Lawsonia inermis extract.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one other coloring molecule, in addition to that (s) contained in the Lawsonia inermis extract, it may be in the form of a gel or cream.
  • the coloring molecule may be any coloring molecule, but it is preferably a coloring molecule of natural origin.
  • This coloring molecule can be used alone in the composition.
  • said coloring molecule is contained in an extract of raw material of natural origin and / or in a powder of a biomass of natural raw material.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the extract of Lawsonia inermis, at least one other extract of raw material of natural origin comprising at least one coloring molecule and / or at least one powder of a biomass natural raw material comprising at least one coloring molecule.
  • each extract of matter first of natural origin in addition to the Lawsonia inermis extract is preferably present between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.5 and 7%.
  • each raw material biomass powder of natural origin comprising at least one coloring molecule is preferably present between 0.5 and 50% by weight. weight of the total weight of the composition, in particular between 1 and 30%.
  • the raw material of natural origin of the extracts and / or powders comprising at least one coloring molecule present in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from plants and / or shells and / or insects and / or microorganisms and / or lichens and / or fungi comprising at least one coloring molecule. It may be, for example, dyeing plants, and in particular:
  • anthocyanins are pigments dissolved in the cell juice of plants and chemical structures very similar to those of flavonoids, sources of yellow dyes . Most of the red, purple and blue hues of flowers and fruits around the world are due to these pigments.
  • indigo plants dark blue coloring matter, differs from all other vegetable dyes: it does not exist directly in the many "indigo plants”.
  • the indican and the isatans A and B present in the indigo plants are decomposed by hydrolysis into colorless indoxyl and sugar. By grouping 2 molecules of indoxyl, in the presence of the oxygen of the air is formed indigo,
  • plants with tannins that is to say substances of vegetable origin of astringent flavor. They are very widespread in the plant kingdom, some botanical families are particularly rich: conifers, legumes, cashew nuts, fagaceae.
  • it may be one of the following natural raw materials: Amla, Bois rouge. Buckthorn, Cachou, Campeche, Chestnut, Coreopsis, Eucalyptus, Garance, Broom, Indigo, Mimosa, Blackberries, Myrobaian, Nerprun, Pastel Dyers, Quebracho Colorado, Reseda, Rosemary, Sappan, Solidage, Sorghum, Tara, Annatto, Walnut. Cinnamon, Turmeric, Henna, Hibiscus, Goldenseal, Katam, Liane of Ternate, Oregon, Manjishta, Multani, Orcanette, Rhapontic.
  • composition according to the invention may contain at least one of the extracts or powders presented in Table 1 below;
  • Table 1 Examples of extracts and powders containing at least one coloring molecule that may be present in the composition according to the invention in addition to the extract of Lawsonia inermis
  • composition according to the invention may contain one or more excipients, that is to say any other component than the dye molecules (or extracts or powders containing them) and that the solvent.
  • excipients are non-toxic products for humans and the environment and may be of natural origin.
  • preservatives such as those of natural origin such as naticide, grapefruit extract, rosemary, vitamin E, propolis, etc. or those of synthetic origin that can be labeled Bio, such as benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, etc.
  • Texturizing agents in particular texturizing agents making it possible to obtain a texture in the form of a cream or gel, such as, for example, guar, acacia, xanthan, arabic gum, etc.
  • Perfume adjusters such as, for example, denaturants and odor adjusters, Perfume agents
  • PH adjusters such as, for example, sodium hydroxide, citric acid, lactic acid, etc.
  • active principles of hair and / or cosmetics in particular active principles capable of improving the final quality of the hair, such as, for example, phytokeratin, spirulina, glycerin, etc.
  • oils especially vegetable oils.
  • essential oils especially for their perfuming and antioxidant properties, such as, for example, essential oils of rosemary, turmeric, grapefruit, clove, etc.
  • surfactants natural or of synthetic origin that can be labeled Bio. dye powders, that is to say mixtures of plant powders, plant extracts, pH adjusters or any other natural material to intensify the final rendering of the coloring.
  • excipients when present, each preferably represent between 0.05 and 10% by weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can be obtained by implementing any suitable method. Preferably, it is obtained by implementing a manufacturing method comprising the following steps:
  • the mixing speed is preferably at least 50 rpm, preferably at least 1000 rpm. It may especially be between 50 and 3000 revolutions / minute, preferably between 1000 and 3000 revolutions / minute.
  • the temperature at which each mixture is carried out is included between 40 ° and 70 ° C.
  • the duration of each mixture is preferably between 5 and 30 minutes.
  • the temperature at which each mixture is carried out is the ambient temperature (in particular between 15 and 30 ° C.).
  • the duration of each mixture is preferably between 30 minutes and 2 hours.
  • composition according to the invention can be preserved preferably for at least 30 words.
  • compositions according to the invention when they are applied to the hair or the hair, make it possible to color them durably, with a beautiful color, without unsightly reflection and a very good behavior over time, while being able to be constituted mainly or only natural ingredients, non-toxic and non-irritating.
  • the invention makes it possible to propose a wide range of colors for the permanent hair coloring with a fast exposure time, of maximum lh30, generally less than or equal to one hour.
  • the invention therefore also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the permanent dyeing of hair or hair.
  • the invention relates to a permanent hair dyeing method, comprising the implementation of the following steps:
  • composition according to the invention to all clean hair, - leave between 10 minutes and 1 hour 30 minutes,
  • the hair must be clean before the application of the coloring composition according to the invention.
  • the hair is preferably washed and rinsed before application of the composition. They can however be dry or wet.
  • the composition may for example be applied by brushing it by spreading it from the front of the hair to the back.
  • a charlotte or a food-like film is then preferentially placed on the hair.
  • the hair may be subjected to heat, especially between 35 and 65 ° C, to accelerate the exposure time and promote the fixing of coloring molecules in particular.
  • heat especially between 35 and 65 ° C, to accelerate the exposure time and promote the fixing of coloring molecules in particular.
  • the hair can optionally be washed after the exposure time before being rinsed.
  • compositions can be obtained as follows:
  • compositions presented in the examples were tested on locks of hair according to the protocol described below, and compared with a coloration of the same locks with a prior art chemical composition type oxidation dyeing product of the following formula:
  • Emulsifiers ethoxylated fatty alcohols
  • Solvents (propylene glycol, benzyl alcohol) 20
  • Viscosity agents (fatty alcohols, 10
  • FIG. 1 For a lock treated according to the prior art and in FIGS. 2 and 3 for a lock treated with the product according to the invention. It is found that for the hair colored with a composition according to the invention, the hair scales are perfectly smooth, unlike the hair treated with a coloration of the prior art whose scales are detached, the hair structure being irreparably damaged. In addition, in Figure 3 it is observed that the composition according to the invention is deposited well on the hair fiber.

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Abstract

The subject of the invention is a composition in gel or cream form comprising at least one solvent and at least one extract of Lawsonia inermis, said extract being present at between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Another subject of the invention is a process for producing such a composition and the use thereof, in particular a process for the permanent colouring of the hair on the head and/or on the body.

Description

COMPOSITION DE COLORATION PERMANENTE SOUS FORME DE GEL OU CREME  PERMANENT COLORING COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF GEL OR CREAM
La présente invention concerne la coloration des cheveux et des poils, en particulier les compositions à base de matières premières colorantes naturelles. En particulier l'invention se rapporte à des compositions sous forme de gel ou de crème comprenant un extrait qui permet l'accroche de la coloration sur la fibre capillaire. L'invention vise également un procédé d'obtention d'une telle composition et son utilisation pour la coloration permanente des cheveux et/ou des poils. The present invention relates to the coloration of hair and hair, in particular compositions based on natural dyestuffs. In particular, the invention relates to compositions in the form of a gel or a cream comprising an extract which makes it possible to attach the coloration to the hair fiber. The invention also relates to a process for obtaining such a composition and its use for permanently coloring hair and / or hair.
La coloration capillaire existe de longue date et est en constante évolution. Actuellement, une personne qui se colore les cheveux, a le choix entre trois gammes de produits :  Hair coloring has been around for a long time and is constantly evolving. Currently, a person who colors his hair, has the choice between three ranges of products:
- des colorations chimiques dites " d'oxydation ", qui représentent la principale classe de produits utilisés actuellement. Ces produits sont composés de précurseurs incolores de colorants, appelés bases d'oxydation qui, associés à des produits fortement oxydants {peroxyde d'hydrogène) et à un pH élevé, donnent naissance par un processus de condensation oxydative à des composés colorés au sein de la fibre capillaire.  - so-called "oxidation" chemical stains, which represent the main class of products currently used. These products are composed of colorless precursors of dyes, called oxidation bases which, combined with strongly oxidizing products (hydrogen peroxide) and at a high pH, give rise by a process of oxidative condensation to colored compounds within the hair fiber.
- des colorations végétales constituées d'un mélange de plantes broyées appliqué en cataplasme sur les cheveux après dispersion dans de l'eau chaude. Trois plantes principales sont utilisées pour l'ensemble des références actuellement commercialisées : les feuilles de henné (Lawsonia inermis : orange), les feuilles d'indigotier (Indigofera tinctoria ou gludolosa : bleu) et les feuilles de cassia (Cassia obovata : peu colorant).  plant dyes consisting of a mixture of crushed plants applied as a poultice to the hair after dispersion in hot water. Three main plants are used for all references currently marketed: henna leaves (Lawsonia inermis: orange), indigo leaves (Indigofera tinctoria or gludolosa: blue) and cassia leaves (Cassia obovata: little dye) .
- Des colorations " mixtes " qui sont des colorations d'oxydation auxquelles ont été ajoutés des extraits colorants végétaux. Ces compositions sont formulées sur le même principe que les colorations chimiques, l'ajout d'extraits colorants végétaux étant plus un argument marketing qu'un réel bénéfice en termes de teinte obtenue et d'innocuité.  "Mixed" stains which are oxidation dyes to which vegetable coloring extracts have been added. These compositions are formulated on the same principle as chemical staining, the addition of vegetable dye extracts being more a marketing argument than a real benefit in terms of hue obtained and safety.
Les produits de colorations chimiques ou mixtes, en fonction de leur composition, sont destinés à différents modes de coloration : The chemical or mixed coloring products, depending on their composition, are intended for different coloring modes:
- Les colorations temporaires : elles sont généralement utilisées pour masquer temporairement les cheveux blancs ou pour ajouter une nuance à la teinte naturelle. La coloration temporaire agît sur l'extérieur de la cuticule et ajoute une couleur en surface du cheveu. Elle ne peut éclaircir des cheveux foncés et ne résiste que très rarement au shampooing. Elles existent en plusieurs galéniques : rinçages, mousses colorantes, mascaras capillaires, sprays colorants mais également shampooings ou soins colorés qui « assurent » une relative longévité à la coloration d'oxydation. - Temporary coloring: they are usually used to temporarily hide the white hair or to add a shade to the natural shade. The temporary coloring acts on the outside of the cuticle and adds a color to the surface of the hair. It can not lighten dark hair and only very rarely resists shampooing. They exist in several galenic: rinses, coloring foams, hair mascaras, sprays dyes but also shampoos or colored care that "ensure" a relative longevity to the oxidation coloring.
- Les colorations semi-permanentes et demi-permanentes : ces deux modes de coloration fonctionnent de la même façon, mais les compositions diffèrent dans leur formulation.  Semi-permanent and semi-permanent stains: these two modes of staining work in the same way, but the compositions differ in their formulation.
o Les colorations semi-permanentes sont conçues pour déposer la couleur à la surface du cheveu et n'ont pas d'effet éclaircissant. La formule inclut un activateur qui développe la couleur et aide à dilater la cuticule afin que la coloration puisse s'y déposer. La coloration semi-permanente ne pénètre pas dans le cortex et ne dure que six à huit semaines, s'estompant avec le shampooing.  o Semi-permanent stains are designed to deposit the color on the surface of the hair and have no lightening effect. The formula includes an activator that develops the color and helps to expand the cuticle so that the color can settle. The semi-permanent color does not penetrate the cortex and lasts only six to eight weeks, fading with the shampoo.
o La coloration demi-permanente est également déposée sans effet éclaircissant. Les molécules utilisées sont plus petites et pénètrent dans le cortex du cheveu, ce qui leur permet d'être déposées sur et dans la cuticule. La couleur demi-permanente est réputée plus efficace pour couvrir les cheveux blancs. La coloration dure plus longtemps et ne s'estompe pas avec le shampooing.  o Semi-permanent coloring is also deposited without lightening effect. The molecules used are smaller and penetrate into the cortex of the hair, which allows them to be deposited on and in the cuticle. The semi-permanent color is considered more effective for covering white hair. The color lasts longer and does not fade with the shampoo.
Les colorations d'oxydation permanentes : elles sont faites pour pénétrer durablement le cheveu et déposer la couleur directement dans le cortex du cheveu. Leurs formules contiennent un développant qui dilate la cuticule et permet aux molécules d'entrer dans le cortex. Ces colorations contiennent également des dérivés d'aniline qui se combinent avec du peroxyde d'hydrogène pour produire des molécules teintées plus importantes qui restent « emprisonnées » dans le cortex. Grâce à leur formulation, les colorations permanentes sont capables de déposer des couleurs, mais elles peuvent être également utilisées pour éclaircir la teinte des cheveux, tout ceci dépendant de la dose de peroxyde d'hydrogène incluse dans la formulation.  Permanent oxidation dyes: they are made to penetrate the hair permanently and deposit the color directly in the hair cortex. Their formulas contain a developer that dilates the cuticle and allows molecules to enter the cortex. These stains also contain aniline derivatives that combine with hydrogen peroxide to produce larger tinted molecules that remain "trapped" in the cortex. Thanks to their formulation, permanent stains are able to deposit colors, but they can also be used to lighten the hair color, all depending on the dose of hydrogen peroxide included in the formulation.
Toutes ces compositions de colorations chimiques ou mixtes sont efficaces en termes de coloration, avec un temps de pose court {30 minutes) mais présentent de nombreux inconvénients. Notamment ces compositions sont généralement constitués de deux produits, une base colorante et un oxydant qu'il est nécessaire de mélanger au moment de l'application, ce qui n'est pas pratique d'utilisation. En outre elles possèdent des ingrédients non respectueux de l'environnement et potentiellement toxiques {colorants et additifs), et nécessitent l'emploi de produits irritants et/ou allergisants à la fois pour l'utilisateur et pour l'applicateur. De plus, ces produits conduisent à des reflets disgracieux au cours du temps et entraînent la dégradation de la fibre capillaire au fur et à mesure des colorations. Ces produits ne sont donc pas satisfaisants. All these chemical or mixed coloring compositions are effective in terms of coloring, with a short exposure time (30 minutes) but have many disadvantages. In particular, these compositions generally consist of two products, a dye base and an oxidant that must be mixed at the time of application, which is not practical to use. In addition they have non-environmentally friendly and potentially toxic ingredients (dyes and additives), and require the use of irritating and / or allergenic products for both the user and the applicator. In addition, these products lead to unsightly reflections over time and cause the degradation of the hair fiber as and when staining. These products are therefore not satisfactory.
En particulier, pour s'affranchir de l'utilisation de constituants chimiques, de nombreuses personnes se tournent vers des méthodes de coloration capillaires naturelles. Contrairement aux compositions de coloration chimiques, elles ne comprennent pas d'ingrédients toxiques, allergisants ou suspectés d'être cancérigènes tels que les PPD, Toluènes, Diamines, PEG, Aminophénol, Résorcînol... In particular, to overcome the use of chemical constituents, many people are turning to natural hair coloring methods. Unlike chemical staining compositions, they do not include toxic, allergenic or suspected carcinogenic ingredients such as PPDs, Toluenes, Diamines, PEG, Aminophenol, Resorcinol, etc.
La coloration végétale est historiquement reconnue notamment dans les rîtes de beauté orientaux. La coloration naturelle enrobe le cheveu et forme une gaine protectrice autour de celui-ci. Les molécules colorantes se fixent sur les couches supérieures de la fibre capillaire et s'estompent progressivement. Les gammes existantes de colorations végétales sont composées principalement de plantes colorantes en poudre, de protéines de soja micronisées, d'alginate, de cristaux de roche thermale, etc. En particulier quelques plantes historiques sont connues et utilisées actuellement pour notamment leur capacité d'accroché sur le cheveu. On trouve deux classes de colorants : The plant coloring is historically recognized especially in Eastern beauty rites. The natural color coats the hair and forms a protective sheath around it. The coloring molecules bind to the upper layers of the hair fiber and gradually fade. Existing ranges of plant stains consist mainly of powdered coloring plants, micronized soy protein, alginate, thermal rock crystals, etc. In particular some historical plants are known and currently used for particular their ability to hang on the hair. There are two classes of dyes:
Le henné qui permet une accroche durable sur le cheveu qui ne s'estompe pas dans le temps. Mais celui-ci présente l'inconvénient majeur de n'offrir que des tons chauds, cuivrés. Son avantage est certain dans différents types de formulations mais prive les coiffeurs et Ses utilisateurs d'une autre catégorie de couleurs, notamment les tons froids comme les châtains foncés, les châtains neutres et les cendrés.  Henna that allows a durable grip on the hair that does not fade over time. But it has the major disadvantage of offering only warm, coppery tones. Its advantage is certain in different types of formulations but deprives hairdressers and its users of another category of colors, especially cold tones such as dark chestnuts, neutral chestnuts and ashes.
- L'indigo qui permet des teintes foncées, mais qui apporte des reflets disgracieux verts voire violet. Dès son application, si le travail de colorimétrie n'a pas été optimisé, l'indigo prend une place considérable sur le cheveu et apporte un résultat final très moyen et aléatoire.  - Indigo which allows dark colors, but which brings unsightly green or even violet reflections. As soon as it is applied, if the colorimetric work has not been optimized, the indigo takes a considerable place on the hair and brings a very average and random final result.
Ces deux plantes présentent également des problèmes d'approvisionnement et peuvent être couplées à de sels métalliques pour améliorer la couvrance qui cassent Se cheveu.  These two plants also have supply problems and can be coupled with metal salts to improve the coverage that break hair.
Par ailleurs, les colorations naturelles s'appliquent en une ou deux étapes avec un temps de pose long (minimum lh30) et à l'aide d'un casque vapeur qui représente un Sourd investissement et des dépenses énergétiques supplémentaires. Les gammes sont limitées. Sa galénique cataplasme est friable et lourde (environ 300 g de cataplasme à appliquer constitué par 150 g de poudre de coloration qu'il faut mélanger avec de l'eau), elle est désagréable à l'application et au rinçage tant pour le coiffeur que pour la personne qui se fait colorer les cheveux. La reproductibilité de la couleur est aléatoire, le brun foncé et le blond sont très difficile à obtenir, les couleurs de dégradent dans le temps et la couverture des cheveux blancs est insuffisante. In addition, the natural colors apply in one or two stages with a long exposure time (minimum 1:30) and using a steam helmet which represents a Deaf investment and additional energy expenditure. The ranges are limited. Its galenic poultice is friable and heavy (about 300 g of poultice to apply constituted with 150 g of coloring powder which must be mixed with water), it is unpleasant to the application and rinsing both for the hairdresser and for the person who is coloring the hair. The reproducibility of the color is random, the dark brown and the blond are very difficult to obtain, the colors of degrade in the time and the cover of the white hair is insufficient.
L'objectif de l'invention est de proposer un produit qui pallie tous les inconvénients des produits de coloration de l'art antérieur, en particulier un produit qui présente les avantages à la fois des colorations naturelles et des colorations chimiques, sans en présenter les inconvénients. A cet effet, l'invention a pour objet une composition sous forme de gel ou de crème comprenant au moins un solvant et au moins un extrait de Lawsonia inermis, ledit extrait étant présent entre 1 et 10% en poids du poids total de la composition.  The object of the invention is to provide a product which overcomes all the disadvantages of the prior art coloring products, in particular a product which has the advantages of both natural and chemical colorations, without presenting the same. disadvantages. For this purpose, the subject of the invention is a composition in the form of a gel or a cream comprising at least one solvent and at least one Lawsonia inermis extract, the said extract being present between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. .
Lawsonia inermis est une plante qui pousse à l'état naturel dans les régions tropicales et subtropicales d'Afrique, d'Asie du Sud et d'Australasie. Elle contient une molécule particulière, colorante, la lawsone (2-hydroxy-l,4-naphthoquinone) de formule : Lawsonia inermis is a naturally occurring plant in the tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, South Asia and Australasia. It contains a particular molecule, dyestuff, lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) of formula:
Elle comprend également des dérivés naphtoquinoniques, des composés phénoliques, des terpénoïdes, des stérols, des dérivés aliphatiques, des xanthones, une coumarine, des acides gras, et des acides aminés. It also includes naphthoquinone derivatives, phenolic compounds, terpenoids, sterols, aliphatic derivatives, xanthones, coumarin, fatty acids, and amino acids.
La poudre de feuilles de Lawsonia inermis produit des teintes rouges, jaunes et orangées, utilisées en teinture textile et corporelle (coloration et entretien des cheveux, tatouages éphémères de la peau) depuis des siècles. Sa coloration orangée est souvent très disgracieuse dans certaines formulations.  Lawsonia inermis leaf powder produces red, yellow and orange hues, used in textile and body dyeing (coloring and hair care, ephemeral skin tattoos) for centuries. Its orange color is often very unsightly in some formulations.
La composition selon l'invention comprend un extrait de Lawsonia inermis, mélangé à un solvant, et en faible quantité (moins de 10%). Avantageusement la présence de cet extrait dans ces conditions, permet :  The composition according to the invention comprises an extract of Lawsonia inermis, mixed with a solvent, and in a small amount (less than 10%). Advantageously, the presence of this extract under these conditions allows:
- si il est utilisé seul dans la composition de colorer les cheveux ou les poils en blond, et s'il est utilisé en association avec une ou plusieurs autres molécules colorantes, il permet d'améliorer l'accroche des autres molécules colorantes qui viennent se fixer sur lui. En effet il apporte avantageusement le mordançage nécessaire pour accueillir tous types de colorants et ne colore pas les fibres capillaires avec la couleur orangée de Lawsonia inermis quand il est utilisé à son état naturel. if it is used alone in the composition to color the hair or hair in blond, and if it is used in combination with one or more other coloring molecules, it makes it possible to improve the adhesion of the other coloring molecules which are attached to it. Indeed, it advantageously provides the etching necessary to accommodate all types of dyes and does not color the hair fibers with the orange color of Lawsonia inermis when it is used in its natural state.
La composition selon l'invention présentent de nombreux autres avantages. Il s'agit d'une coloration permanente qui fonctionne parfaitement sans produit de synthèse, non toxique et n'altérant pas la fibre capillaire, sans reflet disgracieux au cours du temps. En outre l'invention présente un temps de pose rapide, une large gamme de couleurs, une reproductibilité des teintes, une galénique agréable et facile à utiliser, il n'y a pas de mélange à effectuer, la composition sous forme gel ou crème est prête à l'emploi.  The composition according to the invention has many other advantages. It is a permanent color that works perfectly without synthetic product, non-toxic and does not alter the hair fiber, without unsightly reflection over time. In addition the invention has a rapid exposure time, a wide range of colors, reproducibility of tints, a pleasant galenic and easy to use, there is no mixing to perform, the composition in gel or cream form is ready to use.
L'invention vise également un procédé de fabrication d'une telle composition, et son utilisation pour la coloration permanente des cheveux.  The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a composition, and its use for permanent hair coloring.
L'invention est à présent décrite en détails en regard des figures annexées sur lesquelles : la Figure 1 représente une image au microscope électronique à balayage d'une fibre capillaire endommagée par une coloration d'oxydation de composition type chimique, La Figure 2 représente une image au microscope électronique à balayage d'une fibre capillaire colorée en végétal par une coloration végétale de la composition objet de l'invention,  The invention is now described in detail with reference to the appended figures in which: FIG. 1 represents a scanning electron microscope image of a hair fiber damaged by a chemical composition-type oxidation dyeing, FIG. scanning electron microscope image of a hair fiber colored in plant by a vegetable coloring of the composition object of the invention,
- La Figure 3 représente une image au microscope optique d'une fibre capillaire colorée en végétal par une coloration végétale de la composition objet de l'invention.  - Figure 3 shows an optical microscope image of a hair fiber colored in plant by a vegetable coloring of the composition object of the invention.
Par « coloration permanente » au sens de l'invention on entend une coloration durable dans le temps, où après 3 semaines (temps classique entre 2 colorations), une démarcation est visible entre les cheveux précédemment colorés et les cheveux ayant nouvellement poussés en racines. C'est ce qu'on appelle un « effet racines ». Par « extrait » d'une matière première X au sens de l'invention, on entend un ensemble de molécules obtenues à partir de tout ou partie de ladite matière première X, mais exclut la biomasse c'est-à-dire la matière première brute ou sous forme de poudre. DESCRIPTION DÉTAILLÉE DE L'INVENTION By "permanent coloring" within the meaning of the invention is meant a durable coloration over time, where after 3 weeks (conventional time between 2 colorations), a demarcation is visible between the previously colored hair and the newly rooted hair. This is called a "root effect". By "extract" of a raw material X within the meaning of the invention means a set of molecules obtained from all or part of said raw material X, but excludes biomass that is to say the raw material raw or powder form. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
L'invention a donc pour objet une composition, sous forme de gel ou de crème, comprenant au moins un solvant et au moins un extrait de Lawsonia inermis, ledit extrait de Lawsonia inermis étant présent entre 1 et 10% en poids du poids total de la composition.  The subject of the invention is therefore a composition, in gel or cream form, comprising at least one solvent and at least one Lawsonia inermis extract, said Lawsonia inermis extract being present between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
La composition se présente donc sous forme de crème ou gel. Préférentiellement, elle présente une viscosité (mesurée selon la méthode Brookfield DV-I Prime) d'au moins 400 mPa.s mesurée à 20°C. The composition is therefore in the form of cream or gel. Preferably, it has a viscosity (measured according to the Brookfield DV-I Prime method) of at least 400 mPa.s measured at 20 ° C.
Elle comprend au moins : It includes at least:
un extrait de Lawsonia inermis,  an extract of Lawsonia inermis,
un solvant.  a solvent.
L'extrait de Lawsonia inermis présent dans la composition représente au total entre 1 et 10% en poids du poids total de la composition. Préférentiellement il représente au moins 1,8% et/ou au maximum 5% en poids du poids total de la composition. The Lawsonia inermis extract present in the composition represents in total between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Preferably it represents at least 1.8% and / or at most 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
L'extrait de Lawsonia inermis comprend au moins de la Loawsone. Le taux de Lawsone présent dans cet extrait est compris entre 0,05% et 2%. Il peut contenir d'autres molécules comme des dérivés naphtoquinoniques, des composés phénoliques, des terpénoïdes, des stérols, des dérivés aliphatiques, des xanthones, une coumarine, des acides gras, et des acides aminés. L'extrait est de façon préférée un extrait qui a été enrichi en acides aminés. Cet ajout d'acides aminés en plus de ceux éventuellement présents dans l'extrait, peut avoir été réalisé au moment de l'extraction ou après. Les acides aminés de l'extrait incluant ceux présents initialement du fait de l'extraction et ceux éventuellement ajoutés, peuvent représenter notamment entre 0,01% et 5% de l'extrait en poids de matière sèche de l'extrait.  The Lawsonia inermis extract contains at least Loawsone. The rate of Lawsone present in this extract is between 0.05% and 2%. It may contain other molecules such as naphthoquinone derivatives, phenolics, terpenoids, sterols, aliphatic derivatives, xanthones, coumarin, fatty acids, and amino acids. The extract is preferably an extract which has been enriched in amino acids. This addition of amino acids in addition to those possibly present in the extract, may have been made at the time of extraction or after. The amino acids of the extract including those initially present as a result of the extraction and those optionally added may represent in particular between 0.01% and 5% of the extract by weight of dry matter of the extract.
Le procédé d'extraction s'effectue à partir de feuilles sèches de Lawsonia inermis, entre 15 et 55°C, par solubilisation, puis comprend des étapes de centrifugation, filtration, concentration et séchage. Selon un mode de réalisation particulièrement adapté, l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis présent dans la composition selon l'invention est un extrait obtenu à partir de feuilles de Lawsonia inermis. The extraction process is carried out from dry leaves of Lawsonia inermis at 15-55 ° C by solubilization followed by centrifugation, filtration, concentration and drying steps. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the Lawsonia inermis extract present in the composition according to the invention is an extract obtained from leaves of Lawsonia inermis.
L'extrait de Lawsonia inermis est mélangé avec un solvant dans Sa crème ou Se gel. Le solvant représente préférentiel le ment entre 50 et 95% en poids du poids total de ia composition. Le solvant présent dans la composition est un solvant compatible avec des applications cosmétiques et/ou capillaires. Il s'agit très préférentiellement d'un solvant sans molécule de synthèse et/ou non toxique, et respectueux de l'environnement. Le solvant peut en particulier être de l'eau ou une solution hydro-alcoolique, et notamment une solution hydro-alcoolique comprenant au moins 50% d'eau en poids ou en volume.  The extract of Lawsonia inermis is mixed with a solvent in its cream or gel. The solvent is preferably between 50 and 95% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The solvent present in the composition is a solvent compatible with cosmetic and / or capillary applications. It is very preferably a solvent without synthetic molecule and / or nontoxic, and environmentally friendly. The solvent may in particular be water or an aqueous-alcoholic solution, and in particular an aqueous-alcoholic solution comprising at least 50% water by weight or by volume.
Lorsque l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis est la seule molécule colorante présente dans la composition selon l'invention, la coloration obtenue lorsque la composition est appliquée sur des cheveux blancs peut être une couleur blonde, plus ou moins prononcée en fonction de la quantité d'extrait dans la composition. Lorsque l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis est la seule molécule colorante présente dans la composition selon l'invention celle-ci est préférentiellement sous forme de gel.  When the extract of Lawsonia inermis is the only coloring molecule present in the composition according to the invention, the coloration obtained when the composition is applied to white hair may be a blond color, more or less pronounced depending on the amount of extracted in the composition. When the lawsonia inermis extract is the only coloring molecule present in the composition according to the invention, it is preferably in gel form.
Pour pouvoir obtenir d'autres couleurs, la composition selon l'invention comprend préférentiellement au moins une autre molécule colorante, en plus de celle(s) contenue(s) dans l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis. Lorsque la composition selon l'invention comprend préférentiellement au moins une autre molécule colorante, en plus de celle(s) contenue(s) dans l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis, celle-ci peut-être sous forme de gel ou de crème.  In order to obtain other colors, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one other coloring molecule, in addition to that contained in the Lawsonia inermis extract. When the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one other coloring molecule, in addition to that (s) contained in the Lawsonia inermis extract, it may be in the form of a gel or cream.
La molécule colorante peut être toute molécule colorante, mais il s'agit préférentiellement d'une molécule colorante d'origine naturelle. The coloring molecule may be any coloring molecule, but it is preferably a coloring molecule of natural origin.
Cette molécule colorante peut être utilisée seule dans la composition. Préférentiellement, ladite molécule colorante est contenue dans un extrait de matière première d'origine naturelle et/ou dans une poudre d'une biomasse de matière première naturelle. Ainsi, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre, en plus de l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis, au moins un autre extrait de matière première d'origine naturelle comprenant au moins une molécule colorante et/ou au moins une poudre d'une biomasse de matière première naturelle comprenant au moins une molécule colorante.  This coloring molecule can be used alone in the composition. Preferably, said coloring molecule is contained in an extract of raw material of natural origin and / or in a powder of a biomass of natural raw material. Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the extract of Lawsonia inermis, at least one other extract of raw material of natural origin comprising at least one coloring molecule and / or at least one powder of a biomass natural raw material comprising at least one coloring molecule.
Lorsque la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins un extrait de matière première d'origine naturelle comprenant au moins une molécule colorante, chaque extrait de matière première d'origine naturelle en plus de l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis est préférentiellement présent entre 0,1 et 10% en poids du poids total de la composition, en particulier entre 0,5 et 7%. When the composition according to the invention comprises at least one extract of raw material of natural origin comprising at least one coloring molecule, each extract of matter first of natural origin in addition to the Lawsonia inermis extract is preferably present between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.5 and 7%.
Lorsque la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins une poudre de biomasse de matière première d'origine naturelle, chaque poudre de biomasse de matière première d'origine naturelle comprenant au moins une molécule colorante est préférentiellement présente entre 0,5 et 50% en poids du poids total de la composition, en particulier entre 1 et 30%.  When the composition according to the invention comprises at least one biomass powder of raw material of natural origin, each raw material biomass powder of natural origin comprising at least one coloring molecule is preferably present between 0.5 and 50% by weight. weight of the total weight of the composition, in particular between 1 and 30%.
La matière première d'origine naturelle des extraits et/ou des poudres comprenant au moins une molécule colorante présente dans les compositions selon l'invention sont préférentiellement choisies parmi les végétaux et/ou les coquillages et/ou les insectes et/ou les microorganismes et/ou les lichens et/ou les champignons comprenant au moins une molécule colorante. Il peut s'agir par exemple de plantes tinctoriales, et notamment :  The raw material of natural origin of the extracts and / or powders comprising at least one coloring molecule present in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from plants and / or shells and / or insects and / or microorganisms and / or lichens and / or fungi comprising at least one coloring molecule. It may be, for example, dyeing plants, and in particular:
des plantes contenant des quinones {présents dans la garance, le carthame, l'orcanette...) qui forment des teintes rouges, violettes et roux  plants containing quinones {present in madder, safflower, orcanette ...) that form red, purple and red hues
des rubiacés à anthraquinones qui offrent des rouges  rubiates with anthraquinones that offer reds
des plantes contenant des flavonoïdes qui forment des pigments tinctoriaux jaunes des plantes contenant des flavonoïdes qui ne teignent pas en jaune : les anthocyanes sont des pigments dissous dans te suc cellulaire des plantes et de structures chimiques très voisines de celles des flavonoïdes, sources de teintures jaunes. La plupart des teintes rouges, violettes et bleues des fleurs et fruits du monde entier sont dues à ces pigments.  plants containing flavonoids that form yellow dye pigments of plants containing flavonoids that do not dye yellow: anthocyanins are pigments dissolved in the cell juice of plants and chemical structures very similar to those of flavonoids, sources of yellow dyes . Most of the red, purple and blue hues of flowers and fruits around the world are due to these pigments.
des plantes à indigo : matière colorante bleu foncé, diffère de toutes les autres teintures végétales : il n'existe pas directement dans les nombreuses "plantes à indigo". L'indican et les isatans A et B présents dans les plantes à indigo sont décomposés par hydrolyse en indoxyle incolore et en sucre. Par regroupement de 2 molécules d 'indoxyle, en présence de l'oxygène de l'air se forme l'indigo,  indigo plants: dark blue coloring matter, differs from all other vegetable dyes: it does not exist directly in the many "indigo plants". The indican and the isatans A and B present in the indigo plants are decomposed by hydrolysis into colorless indoxyl and sugar. By grouping 2 molecules of indoxyl, in the presence of the oxygen of the air is formed indigo,
des plantes à tanins : c'est-à-dire des substances d'origine végétale de saveur astringente. Ils sont très répandus dans le règne végétal certaines familles botaniques en sont particulièrement riches : conifères, légumineuses, anacardaciées, fagacées. plants with tannins: that is to say substances of vegetable origin of astringent flavor. They are very widespread in the plant kingdom, some botanical families are particularly rich: conifers, legumes, cashew nuts, fagaceae.
Il peut notamment s'agir d'une des matières premières d'origine naturelle suivantes : Amla, Bois rouge. Bourdaine, Cachou, Campêche, Châtaigner, Coréopsis, Eucalyptus, Garance, Genêt, indigo, Mimosa, Mûrier des teinturiers, Myrobaian, Nerprun, Pastel des teinturiers, Quebracho Colorado, Réséda, Romarin, Sappan, Solidage, Sorgho, Tara, Annatto, Brou de noix. Cannelle, Curcuma, Henné, Hibiscus, Hydraste, Katam, Liane de Ternate, Oregon, Manjishta, Multani, Orcanette, Rhapontic. In particular, it may be one of the following natural raw materials: Amla, Bois rouge. Buckthorn, Cachou, Campeche, Chestnut, Coreopsis, Eucalyptus, Garance, Broom, Indigo, Mimosa, Blackberries, Myrobaian, Nerprun, Pastel Dyers, Quebracho Colorado, Reseda, Rosemary, Sappan, Solidage, Sorghum, Tara, Annatto, Walnut. Cinnamon, Turmeric, Henna, Hibiscus, Goldenseal, Katam, Liane of Ternate, Oregon, Manjishta, Multani, Orcanette, Rhapontic.
A titre d'exemple, la composition selon l'invention peut contenir au moins un des extraits ou poudres présentés dans le Tableau 1 ci-dessous ; By way of example, the composition according to the invention may contain at least one of the extracts or powders presented in Table 1 below;
INCI Nom commun INCI Common Name
Emblica officinalis extract Amla extract Emblica officinalis extract Amla extract
Haematoxylum brasiletto extract Bois rouge extrait Haematoxylum brasiletto extract Red wood extract
Frangula alnus bark extract Bourdaine extrait Frangula alnus bark extract Bourdaine extract
Acacia catechu wood extract Cachou extrait  Acacia catechu wood extract Cachou extract
Haematoxylum campechianum wood extract Campêche extrait Haematoxylum campechianum wood extract Campeche extract
Castanea sativa (chestnut) bark extract Châtaignier extraitCastanea sativa (chestnut) bark extract Chestnut extract
Coreopsis tinctoria flower/leaf/stem extract Coréopsis extraitCoreopsis tinctoria flower / leaf / stem extract Corseopsis extract
Eucalyptus vegetable extract Eucalyptus extraitEucalyptus vegetable extract Eucalyptus extract
Sc inopsis balansae lorentzii wood extract - sodium Sc inopsis balansae lorentzii wood extract - sodium
Extracto marron bisulphite  Brown bisulphite extract
Rubia tinctorum root extract Garance standart extrait Rubia tinctorum root extract Garance standart extract
Genista tinctoria flower/leaf/stem extract Genêt extrait Genista tinctoria flower / leaf / stem extract Genet extract
Indigofera tinctoria leaf extract Extrait d'indigo  Indigofera tinctoria leaf extract Indigo extract
Indigowoad leaf extract Indigo feuilles extraitIndigowoad leaf extract Indigo leaf extract
Acacia mearnsii extract Mimosa extrait Acacia mearnsii extract Mimosa extract
Mûrier des teinturiers Mulberry dyers
Morus Tinctoria or Maclura Tinctoria extract extrait Morus Tinctoria gold Maclura Tinctoria extract extract
Terminalia chebula extract Myrobalan extraitTerminalia chebula extract Myrobalan extract
Rhamnus infectoria Nerprun extrait Rhamnus infectoria Nerprun extract
Pigment de Pastel des Pastel pigment of
Isatis tinctoria extract Isatis tinctoria extract
teinturiers  dyers
Schinopsis balansae wood extract Quebracho extrait Schinopsis balansae extract wood extract Quebracho
Schinopsis lorentzii Engl. Québracho extraitSchinopsis lorentzii Engl. Quebracho extract
Reseda luteola Flower/leaf/stem extract Réséda extrait Reseda luteola Flower / leaf extract / stem extract extract
Romarin extrait Rosemary extract
Rosmarinus officinalis extract Rosmarinus officinalis extract
Caesalpinia sappan L. Extract Sappan extrait  Caesalpinia sappan L. Extract Sappan extract
Solidago canadensis flower/leaf/stem extract Solidage extrait Solidago canadensis flower / leaf extract / stem extract extract
Sorghum bicolor leaf / stem extract Sorgho extrait Sorghum bicolor leaf / stem extract Sorghum extract
Caesalpinia paraguariensis extract Tara extrait  Caesalpinia paraguariensis extract Tara extract
Amla fruit powder/ Emblica officinalis fruit powder Amla poudre Amla fruit powder / Emblica officinalis fruit powder Amla powder
Bixa orellana L. Annato poudre Walnut stain powder Brou de noix Bixa orellana L. Annato powder Walnut stain powder Walnut husk
Haematoxylum campechianum Campêche bois  Haematoxylum campechianum Wood campeche
Cinnamomum zeylanicum powder Cannelle  Cinnamomum zeylanicum powder Cinnamon
Curcuma longa root powder Curcuma  Curcuma longa root powder Curcuma
Rubia tinctorum root powder Garance racines poudre  Rubia tinctorum root powder Garance roots powder
Lawsonia inermis Poudre de henné  Lawsonia inermis Henna powder
Cassia obovata Henné neutre  Cassia obovata Neutral Henna
Hibiscus rosa fleur  Hibiscus rosa flower
Hibiscus sabdariffa flower powder  Hibiscus sabdariffa flower powder
poudre  powder
Hydrastis Canadensis Goldenseal root powder  Hydrastis Canadensis Goldenseal root powder
tndigofera tinctoria teaf powder Indigo feuilles poudre  tndigofera tinctoria teaf powder Indigo leaves powder
Buxus dioica leaf powder Katam  Buxus dioica leaf powder Katam
Clitoria ternatea Liane de Ternate  Clitoria ternatea Liana of Ternate
Oregon Grape Root  Oregon Grape Root
Berberis acquifolium  Berberis acquifolium
powder  powder
Rubia cordifolia root powder (Garance indienne) Manjishta Poudre  Rubia cordifolia root powder (Indian Garance) Manjishta Powder
Solum fullonum Multani Mithi  Solum fullonum Multani Mithi
Alkanna tinctoria root powder Orcanette poudre  Alkanna tinctoria root powder Orcanette powder
Rhapontic root powder Rhapontic  Rhapontic root powder Rhapontic
Tableau 1 : exemples d'extraits et poudres contenant au moins une molécule colorante pouvant être présents dans la composition selon l'Invention en plus de l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis  Table 1: Examples of extracts and powders containing at least one coloring molecule that may be present in the composition according to the invention in addition to the extract of Lawsonia inermis
En plus des molécules colorantes et du solvant, la composition selon l'invention peut contenir un ou plusieurs excipient(s), c'est-à-dire toute autre composant que les molécules colorantes (ou les extraits ou poudres les contenant) et que le solvant. Préférentiellement ces excipients sont des produits non toxiques pour l'homme et l'environnement et peuvent être d'origine naturelle. In addition to the dye molecules and the solvent, the composition according to the invention may contain one or more excipients, that is to say any other component than the dye molecules (or extracts or powders containing them) and that the solvent. Preferably these excipients are non-toxic products for humans and the environment and may be of natural origin.
Ces autres composants sont préférentiellement choisis parmi :  These other components are preferably chosen from:
les conservateurs, tels que par exemple ceux d'origine naturelle comme le naticide, l'extrait de pamplemousse, le romarin, la vitamine E, la propolis, etc. ou bien ceux d'origine synthétique pouvant être labellisés Bio, comme l'alcool benzylique, l'acide déhydroacétique, etc.  preservatives, such as those of natural origin such as naticide, grapefruit extract, rosemary, vitamin E, propolis, etc. or those of synthetic origin that can be labeled Bio, such as benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, etc.
Les agents texturants, en particulier des agents texturants permettant d'obtenir une texture sous forme de crème ou gel, comme par exemple les gommes guar, d'acacia, de xanthane, arabique, etc.  Texturizing agents, in particular texturizing agents making it possible to obtain a texture in the form of a cream or gel, such as, for example, guar, acacia, xanthan, arabic gum, etc.
Les ajusteurs de parfums, tels que par exemple les produits dénaturants et ajusteurs d'odeur, Les agents de parfums Perfume adjusters, such as, for example, denaturants and odor adjusters, Perfume agents
Les ajusteurs de pH, tels que par exemple la soude, l'acide citrique, l'acide lactique, etc.  PH adjusters, such as, for example, sodium hydroxide, citric acid, lactic acid, etc.
les principes actifs capillaires et/ou cosmétiques, en particulier des principes actifs capables d'améliorer la qualité finale du cheveu, tels que par exemple la phytokératine, la spiruiine, la glycérine, etc.  the active principles of hair and / or cosmetics, in particular active principles capable of improving the final quality of the hair, such as, for example, phytokeratin, spirulina, glycerin, etc.
des huiles, notamment les huiles végétales.  oils, especially vegetable oils.
des huiles essentielles, notamment pour leurs propriétés parfumantes et antioxydantes, telles que par exemple les huiles essentielles de romarin, de curcuma, de pamplemousse, clou de girofle, etc.  essential oils, especially for their perfuming and antioxidant properties, such as, for example, essential oils of rosemary, turmeric, grapefruit, clove, etc.
des tensioactifs, naturels ou bien d'origine synthétique pouvant être labellisés Bio. des poudres tinctoriales, c'est-à-dire des mélanges de poudres de plantes, d'extraits de plantes, d'ajusteurs de pH ou tout autre matière naturelle permettant d'intensifier le rendu final de la coloration.  surfactants, natural or of synthetic origin that can be labeled Bio. dye powders, that is to say mixtures of plant powders, plant extracts, pH adjusters or any other natural material to intensify the final rendering of the coloring.
Ces excipients, lorsqu'ils sont présents, représentent chacun préférentiellement entre 0,05 et 10% en poids de la composition. These excipients, when present, each preferably represent between 0.05 and 10% by weight of the composition.
La composition selon l'invention peut être obtenue par la mise en oeuvre de tout procédé adapté. Préférentiellement, elle est obtenue par la mise en œuvre d'un procédé de fabrication comprenant les étapes suivantes :  The composition according to the invention can be obtained by implementing any suitable method. Preferably, it is obtained by implementing a manufacturing method comprising the following steps:
- Mélanger l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis avec le solvant sous agitation à une température comprise entre 15 et 80X pendant 5 minutes à deux heures,  - Mix the Lawsonia inermis extract with the solvent with stirring at a temperature between 15 and 80X for 5 minutes to two hours,
- Ajouter éventuellement une ou plusieurs autre(s) molécule(s) colorante(s) et/ou un ou plusieurs extrait(s) de matière première d'origine naturelle et/ou une ou plusieurs poudre(s) de biomasse de matière première d'origine naturelle contenant une ou plusieurs autre(s) molécule(s) colorante(s), et mélanger sous agitation à une température comprise entre 15 et 80X pendant 5 minutes à deux heures,  - optionally add one or more other dye molecule (s) and / or one or more extract (s) of raw material of natural origin and / or one or more raw material biomass powder (s) of natural origin containing one or more other coloring molecule (s), and mixing with stirring at a temperature between 15 and 80X for 5 minutes to two hours,
- Ajouter le ou les éventuel(s) excipient(s) et mélanger sous agitation à une température comprise entre 15 et 80°C pendant 5 minutes à deux heures.  - Add the optional excipient (s) and mix with stirring at a temperature between 15 and 80 ° C for 5 minutes to two hours.
La vitesse de mélange est préférentiellement d'au moins 50 tours/minute, préférentiellement au moins 1000 tours/minute. Elle peut notamment être comprise entre 50 et 3000 tours/minute, préférentiellement entre 1000 et 3000 tours/minutes.  The mixing speed is preferably at least 50 rpm, preferably at least 1000 rpm. It may especially be between 50 and 3000 revolutions / minute, preferably between 1000 and 3000 revolutions / minute.
Selon une variante, la température à laquelle est effectuée chaque mélange est comprise entre 40° et 70" C. Dans ce cas, la durée de chaque mélange est préférentiellement comprise entre 5 et 30 minutes. According to one variant, the temperature at which each mixture is carried out is included between 40 ° and 70 ° C. In this case, the duration of each mixture is preferably between 5 and 30 minutes.
Selon une autre variante, la température à laquelle est effectuée chaque mélange est la température ambiante (en particulier entre 15 et 30°C). Dans ce cas, la durée de chaque mélange est préférentiellement comprise entre 30 minutes et 2 heures.  According to another variant, the temperature at which each mixture is carried out is the ambient temperature (in particular between 15 and 30 ° C.). In this case, the duration of each mixture is preferably between 30 minutes and 2 hours.
La composition selon l'invention peut se conserver préférentiellement pendant au moins 30 mots.  The composition according to the invention can be preserved preferably for at least 30 words.
Elle peut être conditionnée dans tout conditionnement permettant le stockage et la conservation des crèmes ou gels, en particulier tout conditionnement opaque (protégeant les colorants de la lumière du jour), stable (sans effet de migration du produit vers le conditionnement et inversement), tels qu'un conditionnement triplex PE/Aluminium/PET. Avantageusement les compositions selon l'invention, lorsqu'elles sont appliquées sur les cheveux ou les poils, permettent de les colorer durablement, avec une belle couleur, sans reflet disgracieux et une très bonne tenue dans le temps, tout en pouvant être constituée principalement ou uniquement de composants d'origine naturelle, non toxiques et non irritants.  It can be packaged in any packaging allowing the storage and preservation of creams or gels, in particular any opaque packaging (protecting the dyes from the light of day), stable (without effect of migration of the product towards the packaging and vice versa), such as only triplex PE / Aluminum / PET packaging. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention, when they are applied to the hair or the hair, make it possible to color them durably, with a beautiful color, without unsightly reflection and a very good behavior over time, while being able to be constituted mainly or only natural ingredients, non-toxic and non-irritating.
L'invention permet de proposer une large gamme de coloris pour la coloration permanente des cheveux avec un temps de pose rapide, d'lh30 maximum, généralement inférieur ou égal à une heure.  The invention makes it possible to propose a wide range of colors for the permanent hair coloring with a fast exposure time, of maximum lh30, generally less than or equal to one hour.
L'invention a par conséquent également pour objet l'utilisation de la composition selon l'invention pour la coloration permanente des cheveux ou des poils. The invention therefore also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the permanent dyeing of hair or hair.
En particulier, l'invention vise un procédé de coloration permanente des cheveux, comprenant la mise en œuvre des étapes suivantes :  In particular, the invention relates to a permanent hair dyeing method, comprising the implementation of the following steps:
appliquer la composition selon l'invention sur l'ensemble des cheveux propres, - laisser poser entre 10 minutes et 1 heure 30 minutes,  apply the composition according to the invention to all clean hair, - leave between 10 minutes and 1 hour 30 minutes,
rincer les cheveux, préférentiellement à l'eau claire.  rinse the hair, preferably with clear water.
Les cheveux doivent être propres avant l'application de la composition de coloration selon l'invention. Ainsi, les cheveux sont préférentiellement lavés et rincés avant l'application de la composition. Ils peuvent toutefois être secs ou humides.  The hair must be clean before the application of the coloring composition according to the invention. Thus, the hair is preferably washed and rinsed before application of the composition. They can however be dry or wet.
La composition peut être par exemple appliquée au pinceau en l'étalant par raie du devant de la chevelure à l'arrière. Une charlotte ou un film type alimentaire est ensuite préférentiellement posé sur la chevelure. Pendant au moins une partie du temps de pose de la composition, les cheveux peuvent être soumis à la chaleur, notamment entre 35 et 65°C, pour permettre d'accélérer le temps de pose et favoriser la fixation des molécules colorantes notamment. Par exemple, il est possible d'utiliser un bonnet chauffant. The composition may for example be applied by brushing it by spreading it from the front of the hair to the back. A charlotte or a food-like film is then preferentially placed on the hair. During at least a portion of the exposure time of the composition, the hair may be subjected to heat, especially between 35 and 65 ° C, to accelerate the exposure time and promote the fixing of coloring molecules in particular. For example, it is possible to use a heating cap.
Enfin, les cheveux peuvent éventuellement être lavés après le temps de pose avant d'être rincés. Finally, the hair can optionally be washed after the exposure time before being rinsed.
L'invention est à présent illustrée par des exemples et par des résultats d'essais sur la qualité des cheveux après une coloration selon l'invention en comparaison avec une coloration permanente de l'art antérieur. EXEMPLES  The invention is now illustrated by examples and by results of tests on the quality of hair after coloration according to the invention in comparison with a permanent color of the prior art. EXAMPLES
Le Tableau 2 ci-dessous donne la constitution de plusieurs exemples de compositions selon l'invention.  Table 2 below gives the constitution of several examples of compositions according to the invention.
Ces compositions peuvent être obtenues comme suit : These compositions can be obtained as follows:
première solubilisation :  first solubilization:
o peser l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis et placer en cuve 1, o ajouter une eau de grade cosmétique, o weigh the extract of Lawsonia inermis and place in vat 1, o add a cosmetic grade water,
o mélanger sous agitation à au moins 1000 tours/minute à 40° C pendant 30 minutes,  o mix with stirring at least 1000 rpm at 40 ° C for 30 minutes,
o ajouter un ajusteur de pH dans cuve 1,  o add a pH adjuster in tank 1,
o mélanger sous agitation à au moins 1000 tours/minute chauffer i 40°C pendant 30 minutes et conserver en l'état dans la cuve 1,  mix with stirring at at least 1000 rpm and heat at 40 ° C. for 30 minutes and keep as it is in the tank 1,
ajout des autres composants (étape à renouveler pour chaque composants ou à faire en une seule fois pour plusieurs composants) :  adding the other components (step to be renewed for each component or to do at one time for several components):
o peser le composant à ajouter,  o weigh the component to add,
o ajouter dans cuve 1,  o add in tank 1,
o mélanger sous agitation à au moins 1000 tours/minute, chauffer à 40X pendant 30 minutes et conserver en l'état dans la cuve 1.  o mix with stirring at least 1000 rpm, heat to 40X for 30 minutes and keep in the state in the tank 1.
ESSAIS TESTS
Les compositions présentées dans les exemples ont été testées sur des mèches de cheveux selon le protocole décrit en suivant, et comparées avec une coloration des mêmes mèches avec un produit de coloration d'oxydation de composition type chimique de l'art antérieur de formule suivante :  The compositions presented in the examples were tested on locks of hair according to the protocol described below, and compared with a coloration of the same locks with a prior art chemical composition type oxidation dyeing product of the following formula:
Ingrédient Pourcentage en poids  Ingredient Percentage by weight
Tensioactifs (ammonium laureth sulfate, 60  Surfactants (ammonium laureth sulfate, 60
laureth-12)  laureth-12)
Emulsifiants (alcools gras ethoxylés) 30  Emulsifiers (ethoxylated fatty alcohols) 30
Savons (ammonium hydroxide / 30  Soaps (ammonium hydroxide / 30
ethanolamine oleates)  ethanolamine oleates)
Solvants (propylène glycol, benzyl alcool) 20  Solvents (propylene glycol, benzyl alcohol) 20
Ethanol et/ou isopropanol 16  Ethanol and / or isopropanol 16
Colorants capillaires 12  Hair dyes 12
Agents alcalins 10  Alkaline agents 10
Agents de viscosité (alcools gras, 10  Viscosity agents (fatty alcohols, 10
carbomère)  carbomer)
Tensioactifs cationiques (dicetyldimonium 5  Cationic surfactants (dicetyldimonium 5
chloride, PEG-2, oleamine)  chloride, PEG-2, oleamine)
Polymères cationiques (polyquaternium-34) 5  Cationic Polymers (Polyquaternium-34) 5
Conditionneurs capillaires et nacrant 5  Capillary and pearlescent conditioners 5
Agents réducteurs (sodium metabisulfite) 3  Reducing agents (sodium metabisulfite) 3
Parfum 2  Perfume 2
Séquestrant (EDTA) 2  Sequestrant (EDTA) 2
Eau Qsp 100 Le protocole opératoire est décrit en suivant. Water Qs 100 The operating protocol is described following.
Laver une mèche de cheveux de masse comprise entre 0,200g et 0,500g, avec un shampoing pH neutre,  Wash a strand of hair between 0.200g and 0.500g with a neutral pH shampoo.
- Appliquer entre 1,5g et 3g de composition selon l'invention sur la mèche, de manière à ce que la mèche de cheveux soit recouverte en quantité généreuse et suffisante, - Apply between 1.5g and 3g of composition according to the invention on the wick, so that the lock of hair is covered in a generous amount and sufficient,
Placer sous film, Place under film,
Laisser sous chaleur IhOO, rincer et sécher, puis observer le résultat de couleurs et comparer avec l'échantillon témoin,  Leave under heat IhOO, rinse and dry, then observe the color result and compare with the control sample,
Laisser refroidir à température ambiante,  Cool to room temperature,
- Observer au microscope électronique à balayage et au microscope optique après 48 heures.  - Observe under a scanning electron microscope and optical microscope after 48 hours.
Les résultats sont présentés sur la Figure 1 pour une mèche traitée selon l'art antérieur et en Figures 2 et 3 pour une mèche traitée avec le produit selon l'invention. On constate que pour les cheveux colorés avec une composition selon l'invention, les écailles de cheveux sont parfaitement lisses, contrairement aux cheveux traités avec une coloration de l'art antérieur dont les écailles sont décollées, la structure du cheveu étant irrémédiablement altérée. De plus, sur la figure 3 on observe que la composition selon l'invention se dépose bien sur la fibre capillaire. The results are shown in FIG. 1 for a lock treated according to the prior art and in FIGS. 2 and 3 for a lock treated with the product according to the invention. It is found that for the hair colored with a composition according to the invention, the hair scales are perfectly smooth, unlike the hair treated with a coloration of the prior art whose scales are detached, the hair structure being irreparably damaged. In addition, in Figure 3 it is observed that the composition according to the invention is deposited well on the hair fiber.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition pour la coloration permanente des cheveux ou des poils sous forme de gel ou de crème comprenant au moins un solvant et au moins un extrait de Lawsonia inermis comprenant de la Lawsone, ledit extrait étant présent entre 1 et 10% en poids du poids total de la composition. A composition for permanently coloring hair or hair in the form of a gel or cream comprising at least one solvent and at least one Lawsonia inermis extract comprising Lawsone, said extract being present between 1 and 10% by weight of the weight total of the composition.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le solvant est choisi parmi l'eau et une solution hydroalcoolique.  2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the solvent is selected from water and a hydroalcoholic solution.
3. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce que le solvant représente entre 50 et 95% en poids du poids total de la composition.  3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solvent is between 50 and 95% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis est présent à raison d'au moins 1,8% et/ou au plus à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.  4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Lawsonia inermis extract is present in a proportion of at least 1.8% and / or at most 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis est un extrait dans lequel des acides aminés ont été ajoutés.  5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Lawsonia inermis extract is an extract in which amino acids have been added.
6. Composition selon la précédente revendication, caractérisée en ce que les acides aminés représentent entre 0,01% et 5% de l'extrait en poids de matière sèche de l'extrait.  6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amino acids represent between 0.01% and 5% of the extract by weight of dry matter of the extract.
7. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis est un extrait obtenu à partir de feuilles de Lawsonia inermis.  7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Lawsonia inermis extract is an extract obtained from leaves of Lawsonia inermis.
8. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce qu'elle ne comprend pas d'autre molécule colorante en plus de l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis et en ce qu'elle se présente sous forme de gel.  8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises no other dye molecule in addition to the lawsonia inermis extract and in that it is in gel form.
9. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce que le taux de Lawsone présent dans l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis est compris entre 0,05% et 2%.  9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Lawsone rate present in the Lawsonia inermis extract is between 0.05% and 2%.
10. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend également au moins une autre molécule colorante.  10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one other coloring molecule.
11. Composition selon la précédente revendication, caractérisée que ladite au moins une autre molécule colorante est d'origine naturelle.  11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said at least one other coloring molecule is of natural origin.
12. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend en plus de l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis, au moins un autre extrait de matière première d'origine naturelle comprenant au moins une molécule colorante et/ou au moins une poudre d'une biomasse de matière première naturelle comprenant au moins une molécule colorante. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises in addition to the lawsonia inermis extract, at least one other naturally occurring raw material extract comprising at least one coloring molecule and / or at least one less a powder of a biomass of natural raw material comprising at least one coloring molecule.
13. Composition selon la précédente revendication, caractérisée en ce que chaque autre extrait de matière première d'origine naturelle est présent entre 0,1 et 10% en poids du poids total de la composition.  13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that each other extract of raw material of natural origin is present between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition selon l'une des revendications 12 ou 13, caractérisée en ce que chaque poudre de biomasse de matière première d'origine naturelle est présente entre 0,5 et 50% en poids du poids total de la composition.  14. Composition according to one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that each raw material biomass powder of natural origin is present between 0.5 and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition selon l'une des revendications 12 à 14, caractérisée en ce la matière première d'origine naturelle est choisie parmi les végétaux et/ou les coquillages et/ou les insectes et/ou les microorganismes.  15. Composition according to one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that the raw material of natural origin is selected from plants and / or shells and / or insects and / or microorganisms.
16. Composition selon l'une des revendications 12 à 15, caractérisée en ce la matière première d'origine naturelle est choisie parmi les matières premières d'origine naturelle suivantes : Amla, Bois rouge, Bourdaine, Cachou, Campêche, Châtaigner, Coréopsis, Eucalyptus, Garance, Genêt, indigo, Mimosa, M ûrier des teinturiers, Myrobalan, Nerprun, Pastel des teinturiers, Quebracho Colorado, Réséda, Romarin, Sappan, Solidage, Sorgho, Tara, Annatto, Brou de noix, Cannelle, Curcuma, Henné, Hibiscus, Hydraste, Katam, Liane de Ternate, Oregon, Manjishta, M ultani, Orcanette, Rhapontic.  16. Composition according to one of claims 12 to 15, characterized in that the raw material of natural origin is selected from the following raw materials of natural origin: Amla, Redwood, Buckthorn, Cachou, Campêche, Chestnut, Coreopsis, Eucalyptus, Garance, Broom, Indigo, Mimosa, Dyer's Cream, Myrobalan, Nerprun, Pastel Dyers, Quebracho Colorado, Reseda, Rosemary, Sappan, Solidage, Sorghum, Tara, Annatto, Nutnut, Cinnamon, Turmeric, Henna, Hibiscus, Goldenseal, Katam, Liana of Ternate, Oregon, Manjishta, M ultani, Orcanette, Rhapontic.
17. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend au moins un autre composant choisi parmi les conservateurs, les agents texturants, les ajusteurs de pH, les huiles essentielles, les huiles, les tensioactifs, des poudres tinctoriales, les principes actifs capillaires et/ou cosmétiques, et les agents de parfum.  17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one other component selected from preservatives, texturizing agents, pH adjusters, essential oils, oils, surfactants, dye powders , the active principles of hair and / or cosmetics, and perfume agents.
18. Composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce qu'elle présente une viscosité d'au moins 400 mPa.s.  18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a viscosity of at least 400 mPa.s.
19. Procédé de fabrication d'une composition selon l'une des précédentes revendications, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes :  19. A method of manufacturing a composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
Mélanger l'extrait de Lawsonia inermis avec le solvant sous agitation à une température comprise entre 15 et 80°C pendant 5 minutes à deux heures,  Mix the lawsonia inermis extract with the solvent with stirring at a temperature between 15 and 80 ° C for 5 minutes to two hours,
Ajouter éventuellement une ou plusieurs autre(s) molécule(s) colorante(s) et/ou un ou plusieurs extrait(s) de matière première d'origine naturelle et/ou une ou plusieurs poudre(s) de biomasse de matière première d'origine naturelle contenant une ou plusieurs autre(s) molécule(s) colorante(s), et mélanger sous agitation à une température comprise entre 15 et 80°C pendant 5 minutes à deux heures, Optionally add one or more other dye molecule (s) and / or one or more raw material extract (s) of natural origin and / or one or more raw material biomass powder (s). natural origin containing one or several other molecule (s) coloring (s), and stir stirring at a temperature between 15 and 80 ° C for 5 minutes to two hours,
Ajouter le ou les éventuel(s) excipient(s) et éventuellement une poudre tinctoriale et mélanger sous agitation à une température comprise entre 15 et 80°C pendant 5 minutes à deux heures.  Add the optional excipient (s) and optionally a dye powder and mix with stirring at a temperature between 15 and 80 ° C for 5 minutes to two hours.
20. Utilisation de la composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 18, pour la coloration permanente des cheveux ou des poils.  20. Use of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 18, for the permanent coloring of hair or hair.
21. Procédé de coloration permanente des cheveux, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend la mise en œuvre des étapes suivantes :  21. A permanent hair dyeing process, characterized in that it comprises the implementation of the following steps:
- Appliquer la composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 18 sur l'ensemble des cheveux propres,  - Apply the composition according to one of claims 1 to 18 on the set of clean hair,
Laisser poser entre 10 minutes et 1 heure 30 minutes,  Let stand between 10 minutes and 1 hour 30 minutes,
rincer les cheveux.  rinse the hair.
22. Procédé de coloration permanente des cheveux selon la précédente revendication, caractérisé par au moins une des caractéristiques suivantes :  22. A permanent hair dyeing method according to the preceding claim, characterized by at least one of the following features:
Les cheveux sont préalablement lavés et rincés avant l'application de la composition de coloration,  The hair is washed beforehand and rinsed before the application of the coloring composition,
Pendant au moins une partie du temps de pose de la composition sur les cheveux, les cheveux sont soumis à la chaleur,  During at least a part of the exposure time of the composition on the hair, the hair is subjected to heat,
- Les cheveux sont lavés après le temps de pose avant d'être rincés.  - The hair is washed after the exposure time before being rinsed.
EP18765364.7A 2017-08-17 2018-08-17 Permanent colouring composition in gel or cream form Pending EP3668603A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1770861A FR3070128B1 (en) 2017-08-17 2017-08-17 PERMANENT COLOR COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A GEL OR CREAM
PCT/EP2018/072312 WO2019034770A1 (en) 2017-08-17 2018-08-17 Permanent colouring composition in gel or cream form

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EP3668603A1 true EP3668603A1 (en) 2020-06-24

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EP18765364.7A Pending EP3668603A1 (en) 2017-08-17 2018-08-17 Permanent colouring composition in gel or cream form

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US (1) US20200222306A1 (en)
EP (1) EP3668603A1 (en)
CA (1) CA3072662A1 (en)
FR (1) FR3070128B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2019034770A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3117370B1 (en) * 2020-12-16 2024-04-12 Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique COLORING COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AN EXTRACT OF THE AERIAL PARTS DESORGHUM BICOLOR (L.) MOENCH
DE102021208915A1 (en) * 2021-08-13 2023-02-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Caustic-free hair dye with vegetable dyes

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2510404A1 (en) * 1981-08-03 1983-02-04 Fabre Sa Pierre EXTENDED COSMETIC PREPARATION WITH COLORING POWER, ESPECIALLY FOR CAPILLARY USE
FR2543434B1 (en) * 1983-04-01 1986-03-14 Muller International Sarl Alba COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR DYEING THE PILED SYSTEM.
DE19838809C2 (en) * 1998-08-26 2002-12-19 Kloss Gerhard Dry extract from the henna plant, process for its production and its use
CN103040673B (en) * 2012-11-21 2014-06-18 漳州市格莱雅化妆品有限公司 Daffodil-essence plant nanometer dyeing and hairdressing gel
FR3033698B1 (en) * 2015-03-17 2019-12-13 Patricia Barroero HAIR COLORING PROCESS USING NATURAL PIGMENTS

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FR3070128B1 (en) 2021-05-14
WO2019034770A1 (en) 2019-02-21
CA3072662A1 (en) 2019-02-21
US20200222306A1 (en) 2020-07-16
FR3070128A1 (en) 2019-02-22

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