FR3113240A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR SILICONE, AT LEAST ONE ALCANE AND AT LEAST ONE DIRECT COLOR AND/OR AT LEAST ONE PIGMENT - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one particular silicone, at least one alkane and at least one direct tint and/or at least one pigment The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: has. an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and comprising: - a mixture of silicones comprising (i) one or more trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) one or more amino silicone( s) having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, - a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, in which the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and - some water ; b. one or more alkanes comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms in a total amount of at least 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; vs. one or more direct shades and/or one or more pigments. Figure for abstract: None

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR SILICONE, AT LEAST ONE ALCANE AND AT LEAST ONE DIRECT COLOR AND/OR AT LEAST ONE PIGMENT

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which comprises a specific oil-in-water type silicone emulsion, one or more alkanes, and one or several direct shade(s) and/or one or more pigments.

The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibres, in particular tinting keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which consists in applying said composition to said keratin fibres.

Over the years, people have wanted to change the color of their skin, their eyelashes, or their hair. In particular, one of the major concerns of consumers with long hair is uneven color and conditioning from root to tip.

Several techniques have been developed to achieve the desired color.

A first method for dyeing human keratin fibers involves dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds, via an oxidative condensation process.

The shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be modified by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colors.

Although this process of oxidative dyeing for hair generally provides good dyeing properties, in particular in terms of chromaticity and shine, as well as good cosmetic properties, such as lightness, volume and gloss, these properties tend to wear off during the time and new dull gray hair is visible after a few weeks. Consumers usually see their ends dull and dry, which lack color, shine and smoothness, which is not appreciated by consumers, who therefore need to dye their hair more frequently. However, people are hesitant to use oxidative tints often due to hair damage and scalp irritation.

A second process for dyeing human keratin fibers is known as direct dyeing or semi-permanent dyeing, and involves the application of direct and/or natural dyes, which are colored and dye molecules which have an affinity for fibers. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend to stay on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little into the fiber, compared to the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors.

The main advantages of this type of dye are that it does not require any oxidizing agent, which limits fiber degradation, and that it does not use any dye that has a particular reactivity, which translates into a limitation of risks. of intolerance.

More particularly, direct dyeing can involve natural hair tints, such as henna, which provide good coverage of the hair. However, these natural products are quite difficult to control and the shades thus obtained are not completely satisfactory. To avoid unwanted yellow and/or orange tones in their hair, many people may prefer to forgo such coloring agents. The use of these natural dyeing agents also tends to transfer to the hands and/or clothing of users.

Among other tinting agents, synthetic direct dyes and/or pigments such as metal oxides are commonly used. These agents can especially be included in many different types of compositions such as in shampoo, conditioner or leave-in formats. However, depending on the tint concentration in the formulations, these compositions may be applied more or less frequently and may require the use of gloves to avoid staining the hands. In addition, the cosmetic and dyeing properties conferred by these compositions are also not completely satisfactory and need to be improved.

Hence, a real need to develop a cosmetic composition, and in particular a cosmetic tinting composition, which can be part of a consumer's daily regimen, i.e. which is easy to apply without any skin or scalp irritation and/or stains on hands or clothes. This composition should also provide improved tinctorial properties, and in particular progressive and satisfactory coverage of gray hair by an even deposit of color with care, while conferring good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of gloss, shine, smoothness and softness.

The applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising a silicone emulsion of the specific oil-in-water type, one or more alkanes comprising from 6 to 32 carbon atoms in a specific content, and one or more direct tint(s) (s) and / or one or more pigment (s) achieves the objectives outlined above.

Thus, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

To. an oil-in-water emulsion having a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:

- a mixture of silicones comprising (i) one or more dialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) one or more amino silicone(s) s) having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,

- an emulsifier blend comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier blend has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and

- some water ;

b. one or more alkanes comprising from 6 to 32 carbon atoms in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

vs. one or more direct tints and/or one or more pigments.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention provides good progressive coverage of gray hair by even deposit of color with care, and also provides good deposit of the direct tint(s) and/or pigment(s). (s) on the fibers.

In addition, the hair dyed with the composition of the invention has good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of lightness, shine, smoothness and softness of the hair.

The composition of the present invention is also stable over time and easy to apply.

The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which consists in applying the said composition as defined previously to the said keratin fibres, and after an optional exposure time, its optional elimination by rinsing.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In the text below, unless otherwise specified, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Silicone(s) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an oil-in-water (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and comprising:

- a mixture of silicones comprising (i) a dialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25° C. and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa. s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,

- a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifier(s), in which the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16; And

- some water.

In the oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the mixture of silicones, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.

The mixture of silicones comprises one or more dialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl, which are preferably of formula (IX):

R′ ₃ SiO(R′ ₂ SiO) _p SiR′ ₃ (IX),

in which :

- the R', identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl, And

- p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000.

The dialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl (or blocked at the end or position α, ω) according to the invention have a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded ) at 25°C, preferably a viscosity of 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, more preferably a viscosity of 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

The dialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl according to the invention are preferably linear but additionally contain R' ₂ SiO _2/2 units (D units) in formula (IX), R'SiO _3/2 units (T units) and /or SiO _4/2 units (Q units), in which the R', identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the R′, which are identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2- n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and the isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, the nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, the decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, the dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and allyl radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; radicals, alkaryl; such as o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and b-phenylethyl radical. The methyl radical is most preferred.

Preferably, the dialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl are PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones) terminated by trimethylsilyl.

The mixture of silicones comprises one or more amino silicones, which are preferably of formula (X):

XR ₂ Si(OSiAR) _n (OSiR ₂ ) _m OSiR ₂ X (X),

in which :

- the Rs, which are identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl;

- the Xs, which are identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl (OH) or C ₁ to C ₆ alkoxy group; preferably X is R, i.e. a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl;

- A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ -] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is a C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene radical, of preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, the R ² s, which are identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical , preferably a hydrogen atom, R ³ is a C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 0 or 1;

And

- m + n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600.

Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ -] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, R ² are hydrogen atoms, R ³ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 1.

Preferably, the Rs, which are identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n -butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and allyl radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radicals; alkaryl radicals, such as o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals, such as the benzyl radical and the a- and b-phenylethyl radical. The methyl radical is most preferred.

The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25° C., preferably of 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.

The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine value of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably of 3.5 to 8 mg.

The mole percent of amine functionality is preferably in the range of about 0.3 to about 8%.

Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone blend of the invention include a trialkylsilyl terminated amino silicone.

Most preferably, the amino silicones are trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane, most preferably trimethylsilyl-terminated - aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane copolymers. The amino radical A can be partially or totally protonated by adding acids to the amino silicone, the salt forms of the amino radical being obtained. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 2.0 mol per 1 mol of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (X).

The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in an amount of 70 to 90% by weight, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the mixture of silicones, and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an index of amine from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the mixture of silicones.

The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises an emulsifier mixture which includes one or more non-ionic emulsifiers. It could optionally include one or more cationic surfactants.

The emulsifier blend has an HLB value of 10 to 16.

The nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen from nonionic surfactants as described below.

Mention may be made of alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ), these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups optionally ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups optionally ranging from 2 to 30; or as a variant, these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula:

R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t -(G) _v ,

in which :

- R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

- R ₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, optionally ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being in particular between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C ₈ /C ₁₆ 1,4-alkyl(poly)glycosides, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are very particularly preferred.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or otherwise the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

The nonionic emulsifiers can preferably be chosen from ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylenated surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, sorbitol esters and their ethoxylated derivatives, glycol esters of fatty acids, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, amides polyoxyethylene fatty acids.

Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are chosen from:

(i) polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ethers, in particular (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:

R ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _cOH ,

with :

- R ₃ representing a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₄₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C ₈ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and

- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.

The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO);

(ii) polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) phenyl ethers,

(iii) polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) sorbitan fatty acid esters, in particular polyethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably of 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylene sorbitan (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; And

(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers could be chosen from an alkyl ether of polyalkylene glycol and alkyl esters of polyalkylene glycol; preferably polyethylene glycol (PEG).

Some useful emulsifiers are:

- polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene glycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; among these, mention may be made more particularly of trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6.

- polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether;

- polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monooleate.

- polyethylene glycol stearate, and in particular PEG-100 stearate.

Most preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are selected from steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and mixtures thereof; preferably all of these emulsifiers are present in the emulsifier mixture.

The mixture of emulsifiers could comprise one or more cationic emulsifiers which could be chosen from tetraalkylammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylarylammonium halides, and their salts; quaternary ammonium compounds including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be chosen from cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as chloride.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the emulsifier mixture in a total amount of 5 to 15 wt%, preferably 8 to 15 wt%, most preferably 10 to 12 wt%. , based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, when present, in a total amount of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of silicones in a total amount of 40 to 60% by weight, preferably 45 to 55% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of 35 to 45% by weight, preferably 38 to 42% by weight, based on the weight total of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 8 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion comprises water preferably in an amount of 25 to 50% by weight, preferably 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably 35 to 42% by weight, based to the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion could additionally comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, which could be present in the emulsion in an amount of 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

A process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises:

- a step of mixing one or more dialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl with a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and one or more amino silicones with a viscosity of 1,000 to 15 000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of 15°C to 40°C, preferably at 25°C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid, then

- a step of adding an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more nonionic emulsifier(s), the emulsifier mixture having an HLB value of 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a mixture silicone-emulsifier, then

- a step of homogenizing the silicone-emulsifier mixture followed by

- a step of adding, preferably by step, water, preferably demineralised water, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm.

The process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion could also comprise an additional step of adding a biocide. The biocide could be added to preserve the emulsion against microbial contamination. The biocide could be added in order to preserve the emulsion from microbial contamination and to obtain said emulsion. The amount of biocide depends on the type of biocide and as recommended by the manufacturer.

The preparation of the mixture of emulsifiers could be carried out by mixing one or more non-ionic emulsifiers.

The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e. after addition of the biocide) is preferably 4 to 6.

The oil-in-water emulsion has a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm, preferably 100-300 nm, more preferably 150-250 nm, more preferably 150-225 nm, and most preferably 160 to 200 nm. It corresponds to the mean hydrodynamic particle diameter. The D50 particle size is expressed in volume. The D50 particle size could be measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method.

Particle size measurement

The particle size of the emulsion was measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, Nano-ZS model which is based on the method of Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS). The D50 value of the particle size (mean hydrodynamic particle diameter) is measured, the evaluation algorithm being “cumulant analysis”.

Take 0.5 g of the emulsion sample in a 250 mL beaker, pour 100 mL of deionized water into it and mix them well to obtain the sample test solution. The sample test solution is poured into the cuvette cell and placed in the slot of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the value of the 50% particle diameter in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50 = 170nm, then 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170nm, and 50% smaller than 170nm or approximately 50% by volume of all droplets in said emulsion are 170nm .

Viscosity measurement

The viscosity, in particular of the silicones or of the emulsion, is measured at 25° C., at atmospheric pressure .

For viscosities between 1,000 to 40,000 mPa.s at 25°C: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar rheometer; MCR101 model, single-groove cylinder geometry: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s ^-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.

For viscosities between 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, 25-6 cone (plane-cone geometry: 25 mm diameter/6° cone); the "Zero groove" adjustment being carried out and with a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.

Three measurements are made for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. Products in the MCR Rheometer range operate in accordance with USP (US Pharmacopeia convention) 912 – Rotational Rheometer methods.

Amine number measurement

The amine number is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Make: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. Take 0.6 g of sample in a 500 mL beaker and add a 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture and shake to mix the sample completely; then the sample solution is titrated with a 0.1(N) HCl solution. A determination of the blank value is also carried out with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture. The calculation of the amine index is carried out by the aforementioned potentiometer.

The amine index is calculated according to the formula:

56.11 × (V - V Blank) × N/W mg KOH/g sample,

where V = Volume of HCl required in mL, VBlank = Volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture in mL; N = Normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1 N, W = weight of the sample taken in grams.

HLB value

The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, HLB values refer to values at 25°C.

HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.

A calculation of the HLB value of nonionic surfactants is made according to the equation: HLB = (E + P)/5, where E is the weight percentage of the oxyethylene content and P is the weight percentage of the alcohol content polyhydric, described in the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, n° 4), pp.249 to 256.

It can also be determined experimentally according to the book by F. Puisieux and M. Seiller, entitled “Galenica 5: Dispersed systems – Volume I – Surface agents and emulsions – Chapter IV – Notions of HLB and critical HLB, pp. 153 to 194 paragraph 1.1.2. Determination of HLB experimentally, pp. 164 to 180”.

The calculated HLB is the preferred HLB values that should be considered.

Said calculated HLB could be defined as follows:

"Calculated HLB = 20 × molar mass of hydrophilic part/total molar mass".

For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units condensed on the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “Griffin HLB” as defined above.

For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s).

For ionic surfactants/emulsifiers, the HLB value of an individual surfactant/emulsifier can be calculated by applying Davies' formula as described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent”, Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity): 426 to 438.

According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution allowed by the structural components of the emulsifier: HLB = (number of hydrophilic groups) – n(number of groups per CH ₂ group) + 7.

Approximate HLB values for some cationic emulsifiers are given in Table IV, in "Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics", GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pp17-27.

When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are mixed for use, the HLB _Mix is said to be the required HLB for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation (W _A HLB _A + W _B HLB _B )/(W _A + W _B ) = HLB _Mix , where W _A = the quantity (weight) of the first emulsifier (A) used, and W _B = the amount (weight) of the second emulsifier (B); HLB _A , HLB _B = assigned HLB values for emulsifiers A and B; HLB _Mix = the HLB of the mixture.

Said oil-in-water emulsion is for example described in WO 2017/108824.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the oil-in-water emulsion in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight and better still from 0. 5% to 12% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10%, even more preferentially from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the dialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure in a total quantity ranging from from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight , based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises amino silicone(s) having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure, and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 % to 2% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alkanes

The composition of the invention comprises one or more alkanes comprising from 6 to 32 carbon atoms in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the alkane(s) which are suitable for the invention may comprise from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, most preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms. They may be cyclic, ramified or linear. Preferably they are branched.

Preferably, a mixture of at least two different alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbons n of at least 1, can be used.

Preferably, a mixture of at least two different alkanes comprising from 6 to 32 carbon atoms, different from each other by a number of carbons of 1, can be used.

More preferably, a mixture of at least two different alkanes comprising 10 to 16 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 can be used.

Preferably a mixture of at least three different alkanes comprising from 6 to 32 carbon atoms, more preferably at least four different alkanes, different from each other by a carbon number of 1, can be used.

Examples which may in particular be mentioned include mixtures of C10/C11, C11/C12, C12/C13, C13/C14, C14/C15, C13/C14/C15/C16 alkanes.

A mixture of at least two different alkanes comprising from 6 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and different from each other by a number of carbons of at least 2 could also be used.

Examples which may be mentioned in particular include mixtures of C10/C12, C10/C13, C10/C14, C10/C15, C10/C16, C11/C13, C11/C14, C11/C15, C11/ C16, C12/C14, C12/C15, C12/C16, C13/C15, C13/C16.

The alkane(s) according to the invention may (may) be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 8% to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, or even be devoid of cyclic silicone oil.

Direct tint(s)

The cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises one or more direct tint(s) and/or one or more pigment(s).

A direct tint is understood to be any tint that does not require the presence of a chemical oxidizing agent other than air for coloring. The term "chemical oxidizing agent" is intended to denote an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

The direct tint(s) may be chosen from synthetic direct tints and natural direct tints.

A synthetic direct tint is understood to be any direct tint that does not exist in its natural state, including tints obtained by semi-synthetic means.

Examples of suitable synthetic direct dyes which may be mentioned include azo, methine, carbonyl, azine, xanthene, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (metallo)porphyrin and phthalocyanine direct dyes, alone or in mixtures .

In particular, synthetic azo direct dyes include an -N=N- function in which the two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously part of a cycle. However, it is not excluded that one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N=N- is part of a cycle.

Examples of azo direct tints which may be mentioned include the following tints, described in Color Index International, ^3rd Edition:

- Disperse Red 17

- Basic Red 22

- Basic Red 76

- Basic Yellow 57

- Basic Brown 16

- Basic Brown 17

- Disperse Black 9.

The direct dyes of the methine family are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from >C=C< and -N=C< in which the two atoms are not simultaneously part of a cycle. However, it is pointed out that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequences can be part of a cycle.

More particularly, methine tints are derived from methine, azomethine, hydrazono, mono- and diarylmethane, indoamine (or diphenylamine), indophenol, indoaniline and (hemi)cyanine compounds, such as styryl, streptocyanine, carbocyanine, azacarbocyanine, diazacarbocyanine and tetraazacarbocyanine, such as tetraazapentamethine dyes, and their optical and geometric isomers.

Among the direct azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954; FR 2189006, FR 2285851, FR 2140205, EP 1378544, EP 1674073.

Among the indoamine dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention can be made of the following compounds:

- 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis(-(β-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone;

- 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone;

- 3-N-(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine;

- 3-N-(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine; And

- 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

Among the tetraazapentamethine dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention can be made of the following compounds appearing in the table below:

X ^- representing an anion preferably chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulphate, ethyl sulphate, acetate and perchlorate.

With respect to synthetic direct dyes of the carbonyl family, examples which may be mentioned include dyes selected from quinone, acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin.

Among the quinone direct tints, we can mention the following tints:

- Disperse Red 15

- Solvent Purple 13

- Disperse Purple 1

- Disperse Purple 4

- Disperse Blue 1

- Disperse Purple 8

- Disperse Blue 3

- Disperse Red 11

- Disperse Blue 7

- Basic Blue 22

- Scatters Purple 15

- Basic Blue 99

and also the following compounds:

- 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone;

- 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone;

- 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone;

- 5-β-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone;

- 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone;

- 1,4-bis(β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone.

With regard to the synthetic direct dyes of the azine family, mention may in particular be made of the azine, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine and (di)thiazine dyes.

Examples of azine tints that may be mentioned include the following compounds:

- Basic Blue 17

- Basic Red 2.

About synthetic direct dyes of the xanthene family, mention can be made in particular of xanthene, thioxanthene and pyronin dyes.

The synthetic nitro(hetero)aryl direct dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.

Among the direct nitrobenzene dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention can be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following compounds:

- 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene;

- 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene;

- 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene;

- 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene;

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)benzene;

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene;

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene;

- 1-amino-3-methyl-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene;

- 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene;

- 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene;

- 1-amino-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;

- 1,2-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene;

- 1-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene;

- 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene;

- 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene;

- 1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene;

- 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene;

- 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;

- 1-methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;

- 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene;

- 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene;

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene;

- 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene;

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene;

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene;

- 1-β-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene;

- 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene;

- 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene;

- 1-hydroxy-6-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-3-nitrobenzene;

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene;

- 1-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

Among the triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention can be made of the following compounds:

- Basic Green 1

- Basic Purple 3

- Basic Purple 14

- Basic Blue 7

- Basic Blue 26.

With regard to synthetic (metallo)porphyrin or phthalocyanine direct dyes, use may be made of cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for example alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon.

Examples of particularly suitable synthetic direct dyes which may be mentioned include nitrobenzene dyes; azo, methine, azomethine, hydrazono or styryl direct dyes; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes, and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane direct dyes; indoamine direct tints, indigoid direct tints, phthalocyanine direct tints and porphyrin direct tints, alone or in mixtures.

These tints can be monochromophoric tints (i.e. tints comprising only one hue) or polychromophoric tints, preferably dichromophoric or trichromophoric tints; the chromophores may be identical or different, and of the same or different chemical family. It should be noted that a polychromophore hue comprises a plurality of groups each derived from a molecule which absorbs in the visible region between 400 and 800 nm. Moreover, this absorbance of the tint does not require any previous oxidation, or a combination with one or more other chemical species.

In the case of polychromophore dyes, the chromophores are linked together by means of at least one linker L, which can be cationic or non-cationic.

The linker L is preferably a linear, branched or cyclic C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl chain which is optionally interrupted and/or terminated by at least i) a heteroatom (such as nitrogen N(R), N ⁺ R, R ', Q ^- , oxygen or sulphur), ii) a C(O), C(S), S(O) or S(O) ₂ group or iii) a combination thereof, optionally interrupted by at least one heterocycle which may or may not be fused to a phenyl ring, and which comprises at least one quaternized nitrogen atom forming part of said ring system, and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur), optionally interrupted by at least one substituted or unsubstituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted by two C ₁ -C ₁₅ alkyl groups which are optionally substituted; the linker does not contain a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group, and R and R', which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group which is optionally substituted, preferably by at least one hydroxyl group, and Q ^- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulphate.

If the heterocycles or aromatic rings are substituted, they are substituted, for example, by one or more C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups optionally substituted by hydroxy, C ₁ -C ₂ alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₄ hydroxyalkoxy , acetylamino or amino substituted by one or two C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, or the two groups optionally forming, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle with 5 or 6-membered, optionally comprising another nitrogen or non-nitrogen heteroatom; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C ₁ -C ₂ alkoxy group; a C ₂ -C ₄ hydroxyalkoxy group; an amino group; an amino group substituted by one or two identical or different C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl groups, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the tint(s) is (are) chosen from among (poly)azo tints such as (di)azo tints; hydrazono tints; (poly)methine dyes such as styryl dyes; anthraquinone or naphthalimide shades. Preferably, these dyes are (poly)cationic.

According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the tints are chosen from the cationic tints known as "basic tints".

Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic tints of the formulas (XIX) and (XIX'), azo tints (XX) and (XX') and diazo tints (XXI) below:

formulas (XIX), (XIX'), (XX), (XX') and (XXI) in which:

- Het ⁺ represents a cationic heteroaryl group, preferably bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ to C ₈ alkyl groups such as methyl;

- Ar ⁺ represents an aryl group, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, in particular tri(C ₁ to C ₈ alkyl)ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

- Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) optionally substituted C ₁ to C ₈ alkyl, ii) optionally substituted C ₁ to C ₈ alkoxy, iii ) (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl)amino, or v) N- optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl)-N-aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl)amino, or alternatively Ar is julolidine;

- Ar' is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group such as phenylene, in particular para-phenylene, or naphthalene, which are optionally substituted, preferably by one or more C ₁ to C ₈ alkyl, hydroxyl or alkoxy groups _C1 to _C8 ;

- Ar'' is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferably by one or more C ₁ to C ₈ alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)C ₁ to C ₈ )amino, C ₁ to C ₈ alkoxy or phenyl;

- R ^a and R ^b , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₈ alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;

or as a variant, the substituent R ^a with a substituent of Het ⁺ and/or R ^b with a substituent of Ar form, together with the atoms which bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl;

in particular, R ^a and R ^b represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group, which is optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;

- Q ^- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as a halide or an alkyl sulphate.

In particular, the tints of the invention are cationically charged endocyclic, azo and hydrazono tints of the formulas (XIX), (XIX') and (XX) as defined above. The shades of formulas (XIX), (XIX') and (XX) described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954 are more particularly preferred.

The tints of the invention are preferably chosen from the following compounds:

where Q ⁻ is as defined previously, and represents in particular a halide such as a chloride, or an alkyl sulphate such as methyl sulphate or mesityl.

Mention may also be made of 1-(4'-aminodiphenylazo)-2-methyl-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene.

Among the polychromophore tints, mention may be made more particularly of the azo and/or azomethine (hydrazone) tints, symmetrical or unsymmetrical di- or trichromophores, comprising on the one hand at least one 5- or 6-membered aromatic heterocycle, optionally fused, which comprises at least one quaternized nitrogen atom forming part of said heterocycle, and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur or oxygen), and, on the other hand, at least one optionally substituted phenyl or naphthyl group optionally bearing at least one OR group in which R represents a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl group, an optionally substituted phenyl ring, or at least one N(R') ₂ group with the R', which may be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group or an optionally substituted phenyl ring; the R' groups optionally forming, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, or else one or both of the R' groups may each form a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle saturated with the aromatic ring carbon atom which is ortho to the nitrogen atom.

Cationic aromatic heterocycles which may be mentioned preferably include 5- or 6-membered rings containing 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms and preferably 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one being quaternized; said heterocycle being further optionally fused to a benzene ring. It should similarly be noted that the heterocycle may optionally comprise another heteroatom other than nitrogen, for example sulfur or oxygen.

If the heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are substituted, they are substituted, for example, by one or more C ₁ to C ₈ alkyl groups optionally substituted by hydroxyl, C ₁ to C ₂ alkoxy, hydroxy C 2 to C ₂ alkoxy C ₄ , acetylamino or amino substituted by one or two C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl groups, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group, or the two groups optionally forming, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle with 5 or 6 membered, optionally comprising another nitrogen or non-nitrogen heteroatom; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C ₁ -C ₂ alkoxy group; a C ₂ -C ₄ hydroxyalkoxy group; an amino group; an amino group substituted by one or two identical or different C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl groups, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.

These polychromophores are linked together via at least one linker L as defined previously.

Bonding between the L-linker and each chromophore usually occurs via a heteroatom substituent on the phenyl or naphthyl ring or via the quaternized nitrogen atom of the cationic heterocycle.

The tint may comprise identical or different chromophores.

As examples of such shades, reference may be made in particular to patent applications EP 1 637 566, EP 1 619 221, EP 1 634 926, EP 1 619 220, EP 1 672 033, EP 1 671 954, EP 1 671 955 , EP 1 679 312, EP 1 671 951, EP 167 952, EP 167 971, WO 06/063 866, WO 06/063 867, WO 06/063 868, WO 06/063 869, EP 1 408 919, EP 1 377,264, EP 1,377,262, EP 1,377,261, EP 1,377,263, EP 1,399,425, EP 1,399,117, EP 1,416,909, EP 1,399,116 and EP 1,671,560.

It is also equally possible to use cationic synthetic direct dyes which are mentioned in the following patent applications: EP 1 006 153, which describes dyes comprising two chromophores of the anthraquinone type linked via a cationic linker; EP 1 433 472, EP 1 433 474, EP 1 433 471 and EP 1 433 473, which describe identical or different dichromophore tints, linked via a cationic or non-cationic linker, and also EP 6 291 333, which describes in particular dyes comprising three chromophores, one of them being an anthraquinone chromophore, to which are attached two azo or diazacarbocyanine type chromophores or an isomer thereof.

The expression "natural tints" means any tint or any tint precursor which is present in the natural state and which is produced either by extraction (and possibly purification) from a vegetable or animal matrix, optionally in the presence of natural compounds such as ash or ammonia, or by chemical synthesis.

Natural tints that can be mentioned include lawsone, henna, curcumin, chlorophyllin, alizarin, kermesic acid, purpurin, purpurogallin, indigo, Tyr purple, sorghum, carminic acid, catechin, epicatechin, juglon, bixin, betanin, quercetin, chromene tints and chroman tints, including hematein and brazilein, and laccaic acids.

Preferably, the natural tints used in the invention are chosen from curcumin, chlorophyllin, chromene tints, chroman tints and laccaic acids.

According to the invention, the terms “chromene tint” and “chroman tint” mean tints which include in their structure at least one bicycle of formula (XXII) below:

XXII

endocyclic binding representing a carbon-carbon single bond or carbon-carbon double bond, as illustrated by formula XXII-1 designating the chromene family and formula XXII-2 designating the chroman family below:

XXII-1 XXII-2

More particularly, the colors having in their structure a bicycle of formula (XXII) are chosen from the colors corresponding to the following formulas:

- formula (XXIII), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula XXII-2,

(XIII)

in which :

i) represents a carbon-carbon single bond or a carbon-carbon double bond, the sequence of these bonds designating two carbon-carbon single bonds and two carbon-carbon double bonds, said bonds being conjugated,

ii) X represents a group:

iii) R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ , which may be the same or different, represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, an optionally substituted alkyl group , an optionally substituted alkoxy group or an optionally substituted acyloxy group,

and also their tautomeric and/or mesomeric forms, their stereoisomers, their addition salts with an acid or a cosmetically acceptable base, and their hydrates, and

- formula (XXIV), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula XXII-1,

(XXIV)

in which :

- R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₆ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₀ , which may be identical or different, represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group,

- R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , R ₁₇ and R ₁₈ , which may be identical or different, represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkoxy group,

and also their tautomeric and/or mesomeric forms, their stereoisomers, their addition salts with an acid or a cosmetically acceptable base, and their hydrates.

Regarding the shades of formula (XXIII) as defined above, they can be in two tautomeric forms denoted (XXIIIa) and (XXIIIb):

The alkyl groups mentioned in the preceding definitions of the substituents are groups based on linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon, generally C ₁ to C ₂₀ , in particular C ₁ to C ₁₀ and preferably C ₁ to C ₆ , such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, and hexyl.

The alkoxy groups are alkyl-oxy groups with alkyl groups as previously defined and preferably the alkoxy groups are C ₁ to C ₁₀ , such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy.

The alkyl or alkoxy groups, when they are substituted, can be substituted by at least one substituent carried by at least one carbon atom, chosen from:

- a halogen atom;

- a hydroxyl group;

- a C ₁ to C ₂ alkoxy group;

- a C ₁ to C ₁₀ alkoxycarbonyl group;

- a C ₂ to C ₄ (poly)hydroxyalkoxy group;

- an amino group;

- a 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group;

- an optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl group, preferably imidazolium, optionally substituted by an alkyl group (C ₁ to C ₄ ), preferably methyl;

- an amino group, substituted by one or two identical or different C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl groups, optionally bearing at least:

* a hydroxyl group;

* an amino group optionally substituted by one or two optionally substituted C ₁ to C ₃ alkyl groups, it being understood that it is possible for said alkyl groups to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5 to 7-membered saturated or unsaturated and optionally substituted, optionally comprising at least one other nitrogen or non-nitrogen heteroatom,

* a quaternary ammonium group -N ⁺ R'R''R''', M ^- for which R', R'' and R''', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl; and M ^- represents the counterion of the corresponding organic or mineral acid or of the corresponding halide;

* or an optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl group, preferably imidazolium, optionally substituted by an alkyl group (C ₁ to C ₄ ), preferably methyl;

- an acylamino group (-NR-COR') in which the R group is a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the R' group is a C ₁ to C ₂ ;

- a carbamoyl group ((R) ₂ N-CO-) in which the R groups, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group ;

- an alkylsulfonylamino group (R'SO ₂ -NR-) in which the R group represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the R' group represents an alkyl group C ₁ to C ₄ , or a phenyl group;

- an aminosulfonyl group ((R) ₂ N-SO ₂ -) in which the R groups, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group optionally bearing at least one group hydroxyl;

- a carboxylic group in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or a substituted or unsubstituted ammonium);

- a cyano group;

- a nitro group;

- a carboxyl or glycosylcarbonyl group;

- a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;

- a glycosyloxy group; And

- a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

The term "glycosyl group" means a group originating from a mono- or polysaccharide.

Preferably, the alkyl or alkoxy groups of formula (XXIII) are unsubstituted.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the tints of formula (XXIII) comprise an R ⁶ group which represents a hydroxyl group.

In a preferred variant, X represents an O=C group.

Another particular embodiment of the invention relates to the tints of formula (XXIII), for which the group R ¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group.

More particularly, the shades of formula (XXIII) are chosen from hematein and brazilein.

Braziline is a conjugated form of a chroman compound with formula XXII-2. The tautomeric structures (XXIIIa) and (XXIIIb) shown above can be found in the diagram below.

Braziline and hematin or the pairings hematoxylin/hematin and brazilin/brazilein can be obtained synthetically or by extraction from plants known to be rich in these hues.

The tints of formula (XXIII) can be used in the form of extracts. Use may be made of the following plant extracts (genera and species): Haematoxylon campechianum , Haematoxylon brasiletto , Caesalpinia echinata , Caesalpinia sappan , Caesalpinia spinosa and Caesalpinia brasiliensis .

Extracts are obtained by extracting various plant parts, such as, for example, the root, wood, bark or leaves.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the natural colors of formula (XXIII) are obtained from logwood, Pernambuco wood, sappan wood and Brazil wood.

The salts of the shades of formulas (XXIII) and (XXIV) of the invention may be salts of cosmetically acceptable acids or bases.

Acids can be inorganic or organic. Preferably, the acid is hydrochloric acid, which leads to chlorides.

The bases can be inorganic or organic. In particular, the bases are alkaline hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide, resulting in sodium salts.

Preferably, the shade(s) of formulas (XXIII) and (XXIV) included in the composition according to the invention is (are) derived from plant extracts. You can also use mixtures of plant extracts.

The natural extracts of the tints according to the invention can be in the form of powders or liquids. Preferably, the extracts are in powder form.

In another variant of the invention, the natural colors are chosen from laccaic acids.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “laccaic acid” means a compound having in its structure a unit of the type:

Preferably, the laccaic acids of the invention are of formula (XXV) below:

(XXV)

with R ₁ denoting a phenyl group substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, and preferably by a hydroxyl group which is advantageously in the ortho position with respect to the bond attaching it to the fused rings.

In particular, the phenyl group R ₁ comprises, in addition to a hydroxyl group, at least one -CH ₂ R ₂ group, R ₂ denoting an acetamidomethyl (CH ₃ CONHCH ₂ -), hydroxymethyl (HOCH ₂ -) or 2-aminoacetic acid group. (HO ₂ C(NH ₂ )CH-).

Preferably, the laccaic acids of the invention are chosen from laccaic acids A, B, C and D, or their mixtures, and more particularly chosen from A, B and C, or their mixtures.

A laccaic acid according to the invention which can in particular be used is the shade CI Natural Red 25, CI 75450, CAS - 60687-93-6, which is often referred to as laccaic acid. It is a naturally occurring tint originating from the secretions of an insect, Coccus laccae (Lacifer Lacca Kerr), commonly found on the twigs of certain native trees in Southeast Asia. .

CI Natural Red 25 generally contains two major constituents in its composition: laccaic acid A and laccaic acid B. It may also contain a small amount of laccaic acid C.

It goes without saying that one can also make use of purified forms of laccaic acids of formula (XXV).

Even more preferentially, the direct natural shades are chosen from hematin and brazilein.

Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from direct acid (or anionic) dyes.

When present, the total amount of the direct tint(s) usually ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0. 01% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 4% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 3%, better still from 0.4 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention .

pigment(s)

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "pigment" means white or colored particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition and which give a color to the composition.

The pigments which can be used are chosen in particular from the organic and/or inorganic pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology by Kirk-Othmer and in Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry by Ullmann.

They can be natural, of natural origin, or unnatural.

These pigments can be in powder or pigment paste form. They may or may not be coated.

The pigments can be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter, and mixtures thereof.

The pigment can be an inorganic pigment. The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments which are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of ochres such as red ocher (clay (in particular kaolinite) and iron hydroxide (for example hematite)), brown ocher (clay (in particular kaolinite ) and limonite), yellow ocher (clay (especially kaolinite) and goethite); titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated; zirconium oxide or cerium oxide; zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide; manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue; metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder.

Mention may also be made of alkali alkaline earth metal carbonates (such as calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate), silicon dioxide, quartz and any other compound used as an inert filler in cosmetic compositions, provided that these compounds contribute to the color or whiteness of the composition under the conditions in which they are used.

The pigment can be an organic pigment. The term "organic pigment" means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.

The organic pigment can in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal-complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone.

It is also possible to use any mineral or organic compound which is insoluble in the composition and standard in the cosmetics field, provided that these compounds contribute to the color or the whiteness of the composition under the conditions in which they are used, for example guanine, which, according to the refractive index of the composition, is a pigment.

In particular, the white or colored organic pigments can be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825 , 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under CI references 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments codified in the Color Index under CI references 61565 , 61570, 74260, orange pigments codified in the Color Index under CI references 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments codified in the Color Index under CI references 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525 , 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives FR 2 679 771.

Examples which may be mentioned include organic pigment pastes, such as the products sold by the Hoechst company under the names:

- Cosmenyl Yellow IOG pigment: Yellow 3 (CI 11710);

- Cosmenyl Yellow G pigment: Yellow 1 (CI 11680);

- Cosmenyl Orange GR pigment: Orange 43 (CI 71105);

- Cosmenyl Red R pigment: Red 4 (CI 12085);

- pigment Carmine Cosmenyl FB: Red 5 (CI 12490);

- Cosmenyl Violet RL pigment: Violet 23 (CI 51319);

- Cosmenyl Blue A2R pigment: Blue 15.1 (CI 74160);

- Cosmenyl Green GG pigment: Green 7 (CI 74260);

- Cosmenyl Black R pigment: Black 7 (CI 77266).

The pigments in accordance with the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising a mineral core, at least one binder, to attach the organic pigments at the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.

The organic pigment can also be a lake. The term "lacquer" means colors adsorbed on insoluble particles, the resulting assembly remaining insoluble during use.

The mineral substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or aluminum and aluminum calcium borosilicate.

Among the tints, mention can be made of carminic acid. Mention may also be made of colors known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570) ), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 47005), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

An example of a lacquer which may be mentioned is the product known as: D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. The term "special effect pigments" means pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain hue, vibrancy, and level of luminance) that is non-uniform and changes with viewing conditions ( light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They thus contrast with the colored pigments, which allow an opaque, semi-transparent or transparent, classic uniform color.

Several types of pigments with special effects exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter.

Examples of special effect pigments which may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, and also pearlescent pigments based bismuth oxychloride. Pearl pigments that may be mentioned include Cellini pearls sold by Engelhard (mica-TiO ₂ lake), Prestige sold by Eckart (mica-TiO ₂ ), Prestige Bronze sold by Eckart (mica-Fe ₂ O ₃ ) , and Colorona sold by Merck (mica-TiO ₂ -Fe ₂ O ₃ ).

Mention may also be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); red shimmer mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres of yellow reflection sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl red with a golden sheen sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a golden sheen sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen sold in particular by Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the gold-green pink-orange nacres sold in particular by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and their mixtures.

Still as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are sold in particular under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.

Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of poly(ethylene terephthalate) flakes, in particular those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes).

It is also possible to envisage multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates, such as alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or aluminum and aluminum calcium borosilicate.

Pigments with special effects can also be chosen from reflective particles, ie. in particular among the particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface finish, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when it is applied to the support to be constituted, highlights which are visible to the naked eye, i.e. i.e. brighter points that contrast with their surroundings by seeming to sparkle.

The reflective particles can be chosen so as not to significantly modify the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, golden and/or coppery color or reflection.

These particles can have various shapes and can in particular be in the form of platelets or globules, in particular in spherical form.

Whatever their shape, the reflective particles can have a multilayer structure or not, and, in the case of a multilayer structure, can have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular of titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.

When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they can comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or a material metallic. The substrate can consist of one or more organic and/or mineral materials.

More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list being non-limiting.

The reflective material may include a layer of metal or metallic material.

Reflective particles are described in particular in the documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Again as an example of reflective particles including a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel/chromec/molybdenum alloy are sold under the names Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by this same company.

Use can also be made of particles comprising a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.

Examples that may be mentioned include aluminum powder, bronze powder or copper powder coated with SiO2 sold under the name Visionaire by Eckart.

Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect which are not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) or holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether substances that fluoresce during the day or produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, by example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.

Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductor nanoparticles which are capable of emitting, under excitation of light, radiation with a wavelength between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are known in the literature. In particular, they can be synthesized according to the processes described, for example, in documents US 6,225,198 US 5,990,479, in the publications cited therein and also in the following publications: Dabboussi B.O. )ZnS core-shell quantum dots: synthesis and characterization of a size series of highly luminescent nanocrystallites”, Journal of Physical Chemistry B, vol. 101, 1997, pages 9463 to 475, and Peng, Xiaogang et al., “Epitaxial growth of highly luminescent CdSe/CdS core/shell nanocrystals with photostability and electronic accessibility”, Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 119, No. 30, pages 7019 to 7029.

The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colors, and also particular optical effects, such as metallic effects or interference effects.

The size of the pigment used in the tint composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm.

The pigments can be dispersed in the product by means of a dispersant.

The dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersant can be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities with a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can attach themselves physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group which is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, 12-hydroxystearic acid esters in particular and C ₈ to C ₂₀ fatty acid esters of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as mass poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21,000 by Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel, or otherwise poly(hydroxystearic acid) such than the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.

As other dispersants which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention can be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for example Solsperse 17000 sold by Avecia, and mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene such than those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.

The pigments used in the tint composition according to the invention can be surface-treated with an organic agent.

Thus, the pigments which have been surface-treated beforehand, which are useful in the context of the invention, are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53 to 64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents can be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxide; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example poly(methyl methacrylates); polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, eg silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.

The surface-treated pigments which are useful in the tint composition according to the invention may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or may have undergone several surface treatments.

The surface treated pigments which are useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques which are well known to those skilled in the art, or can be commercially available as such.

Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.

The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.

The surface treatment can thus be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or the fillers. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266.

An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.

The agent for the surface treatment can represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the pigment surface treated.

Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:

- a PEG-silicone treatment, for example the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW;

- treatment with methicone, for example the SI surface treatment sold by LCW;

- a treatment with dimethicone, for example the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;

- treatment with dimethicone/trimethyl siloxysilicate, for example the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;

- treatment with magnesium myristate, for example the MM surface treatment sold by LCW;

- a treatment with aluminum dimyristate, such as the MI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;

- a treatment with perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether, for example the FHC surface treatment sold by LCW;

- a treatment with isostearyl sebacate, for example the HS surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;

- a treatment with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, for example the PF surface treatment sold by Daito;

- a treatment with acrylate/dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate, for example the FSA surface treatment sold by Daito;

- a treatment with polymethylhydrosiloxane/perfluoroalkyl phosphate, for example the FS01 surface treatment sold by Daito;

- a treatment with acrylate/dimethicone copolymer, for example the ASC surface treatment sold by Daito;

- treatment with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, for example the ITT surface treatment sold by Daito;

- an acrylate copolymer treatment, for example the APD surface treatment sold by Daito;

- treatment with perfluoroalkyl phosphate/isopropyl titanium triisostearate, for example the PF + ITT surface treatment sold by Daito.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersant is present with organic or mineral pigments in a particular form of submicron size in the tint composition.

The term "submicron" is intended to refer to pigments having a particle size which has been micronized by a micronization process and having an average particle size of less than one micrometer (µm), in particular between 0.1 and 0, 9 μm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 μm.

According to one embodiment, the dispersant and the pigment or pigments are present in an amount (dispersant:pigment) between 0.5:1 and 2:1, in particular between 0.75:1 and 1.5:1 or better still between 0.8:1 and 1.2:1.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant is suitable for dispersing pigments and is compatible with a condensation-curable formulation.

The term "compatible" is intended to mean, for example, that said dispersant is miscible in the oily phase of the composition or dispersion containing the pigment(s), and which does not retard or reduce curing. The dispersant is preferably cationic.

The dispersant(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as polyether silicone and dispersants of the aminosilicone type. Suitable dispersants include:

- aminosilicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those sold under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879 by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP- 988-1, sold by Genesee Polymers,

- silicone acrylates such as Tego ^® RC 902, Tego ^® RC 922, Tego ^® RC 1041, and Tego ^® RC 1043, sold by Evonik,

- polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxyl groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, epoxy silicones such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP- 607, GP-682, and GP-695 by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ^® RC 1401, Tego ^® RC 1403, Tego ^® RC 1412 by Evonik.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant(s) is (are) of the aminosilicone type and are positively charged.

Preferably, the pigments of the invention are chosen from mineral or inorganic pigments.

Examples of mineral or inorganic pigments which may be mentioned in particular include:

- white pigments such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide;

- colored pigments such as red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, Prussian blue, overseas blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, inorganic blue pigments, carbon black, lower titanium oxides, manganese violet, cobalt violet, and metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder;

- pearlescent pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, mica/titanium, pearl essence, powder prepared by coating synthetic mica with titanium dioxide, powder prepared by coating silica flakes with titanium dioxide, which is available under the brand name Metashine from Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd, powder prepared by coating alumina flakes with tin oxide and titanium dioxide, powder prepared by coating aluminum flakes with titanium dioxide of titanium, powder prepared by coating flakes of copper with silica, sold by the company Eckert Inc. USA, powder prepared by coating flakes of bronze with silica, and powder prepared by coating flakes of aluminum with silica.

When present, the total amount of pigment(s) usually ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 4%; even more preferentially from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

When present, the total amount of the inorganic pigment(s) usually ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 4%; even more preferentially from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition is such that the direct tints are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 4% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 3%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

and/or the pigment(s) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still 0.2 to 4%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Surfactant(s)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more surfactants in addition to the surfactants contained in the oil-in-water emulsion (a) described above.

Said surfactant(s) is (are) preferably chosen from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

Cationic surfactant(s)

The surfactants in addition to the surfactants contained in the oil-in-water emulsion (a) can preferably be cationic surfactants.

The expression "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant which is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant can bear one or more permanent positive charges or can contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the invention.

The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C ₈ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based chain, and preferably one C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ alkyl chain.

As an example of fatty amines, mention may be made of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be specifically mentioned include:

- quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (XVII)

(XVII)

in which,

R ₈ to R ₁₁ , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, knowing that at least one of the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; And

X ^- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, as chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (in C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulphates, alkyl (in C ₁ to C ₄ )- or alkyl (in C ₁ to C ₄ ) arylsulphonates.

The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms in particular such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ to C ₆ ), C ₁ to C _{30 alkylamide,} alkyl (C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ ) amido (C ₂ to C ₆ ) alkyl, (C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ ) alkyl acetate and hydroxy C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl; X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) sulfates, and alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) arylsulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XVII), those which are preferred are, on the one hand, the tetraalkylammonium salts, for example the dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 16 to 22 atoms of carbon, in particular the behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyldimethylceterarylammonium salt, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under the name Ceraphyl ^® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds.

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example, those of formula (XVIII)

(XVIII)

in which, R ₁₂ represents an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group or a alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₁₄ represents a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group, R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group; X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups each preferably comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon.

R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₄ preferably denotes a methyl group, and R ₁₅ preferably denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name ^Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (XIX)

(XX)

in which, R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a group (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ , R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and X ⁻ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from Finetex (Quaternium 75),

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (XX)

(XX)

in which,

R ₂₂ is chosen from C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

- the group

- R ₂₇ groups, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₁ to C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

- the group

- R ₂₉ groups, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₁ to C ₆ hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₇ to C ₂₁ hydrocarbons;

r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ^- is an organic or mineral, simple or complex anion;

provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, such that when x is 0, then R ₂₃ denotes R ₂₇ , and when z is 0, then R ₂₅ denotes R ₂₉ .

The R ₂₂ alkyl groups can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R ₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₇ , it can be long and can contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or can be short and can contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂₅ is a group based on the hydrocarbon R ₂₉ , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁ to C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from alkyl groups and alkenyl C ₁₁ to C ₂₁ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ⁻ is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, use can be made of methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium containing an ester function.

The anion X ⁻ is even more particularly a chloride or methyl sulfate.

Use may more particularly be made in the composition according to the invention of ammonium salts of formula (XX) in which:

R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group;

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

- the group

- methyl, ethyl or groups based on C ₁₄ to C ₂₂ hydrocarbons;

- a hydrogen atom;

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

- the group

- a hydrogen atom;

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from C 13 to C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (XX) such as diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ fatty acids or with mixtures of C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, para-toluenesulfonate methyl glycol, chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart ^® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat ^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ^® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of monoester, diester and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

Use can also be made of ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which are described in US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180.

Behenoylhydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride, supplied by Kao under the name Quatarmin BTC 131, can be used.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, which can be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl ammonium salts.

Anionic surfactant(s)

The surfactants in addition to the surfactants contained in the oil-in-water emulsion (a) can be anionic surfactants.

The expression “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. In the present application, a species is qualified as "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized in the form of negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and comprising no cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants can be sulphate, sulphonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. It goes without saying that a mixture of these surfactants can be used.

The carboxylic anionic surfactants which can be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C ₆ to C ₃₀ aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds optionally being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

It is also possible to use C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as polyglycoside-C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl citrates, polyglycoside-C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl tartrates and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

Among the carboxylic surfactants above, mention may be made more particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds sold by the Kao company under the name Akypo.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (XXI):

R(OC ₂ H ₄ )OC ₂ COOA (XXI)

formula (XXI), in which:

- R represents a linear or branched C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl aryl radical (C ₈ to C ₉ ), an R ₂ CONНCН ₂ CН ₂ radical - with R ₂ denoting an alkyl or alkenyl radical in C ₉ to C ₂₁ linear or branched, preferably, R is a C ₈ to C ₂₀ and preferably C ₈ to C ₁₈ alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes a phenyl,

- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes Н, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a residue of monoethanolamine or triethanolamine.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (XXI), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different R groups.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids which are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:

- R denotes a C ₁₂ to C ₁₄ alkyl radical, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl,

- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

- n ranges from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, use may be made of compounds of formula (XXI) in which R denotes a C ₁₂ alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

Preferably, the anionic carboxylic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- acylglutamates, in particular C ₆ to C ₂₄ or even C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ , such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

- acylsarcosinates, in particular C ₆ to C ₂₄ or even C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ , such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

- acyllactylates, in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₈ or even C ₁₄ to C ₂₄ , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ acylglycinates;

- (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ) alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular (C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl ether carboxylates;

- polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ) alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulphonate anionic surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulphonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ -).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylarylsulphonates, α-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl-sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamidesulphosuccinates, alkylsulphoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds optionally being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- acylisethionates (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ) and preferably acylisethionates (C ₁₂ to C ₁₈ );

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulphate anionic surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulphate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds optionally being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the sulphate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- alkyl sulphates, in particular C ₆ to C ₂₄ or even C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ ,

- alkyl ether sulphates, in particular C ₆ to C ₂₄ or even C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ , preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular salts of amino alcohol, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts which may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ alkyl sulphates;

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ alkyl ether sulphates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- acylisethionates (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ) and preferably acylisethionates (C ₁₂ to C ₁₈ );

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates;

- alkyl ether carboxylates (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ), preferably alkyl ether carboxylates (C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ );

- polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ to C ₂₄ ) alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide;

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ acylglutamates;

- C ₆ to C ₂₄ and in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ acylglycinates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radicals of these various compounds preferably comprise from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, the aryl radical denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

In addition, the polyoxyalkylenated anionic surfactants preferably comprise from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants of the invention are sulphates, more specifically are chosen from (C ₆ to C ₃₀ )alkyl sulphates, (C ₆ to C ₃₀ )alkyl ether sulphates, (C ₆ to C 30 alkyl) ₃₀ ) amidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates, their salts such as alkaline salts, such as sodium, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the anionic surfactants of the invention are chosen from (C ₆ to C ₃₀ )alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ to C ₃₀ )alkyl ether sulfates, in particular (C ₆ to C ₃₀ )alkyl ether sulphates such as lauryl ether sulphate, their salts, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate.

Nonionic surfactant(s)

The surfactants in addition to the surfactants contained in the oil-in-water emulsion (a) can be nonionic surfactants.

Preferably, said nonionic surfactants may be different from the surfactants contained in the oil-in-water emulsion (a).

Among the nonionic surfactants which could be present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of alcohols, α-diols and (C ₁ to C ₂₀ )alkyl phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/ or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups optionally ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups optionally ranging from 2 to 30; or as a variant these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably comprising from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ alkyl) amine oxides or oxides N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ acyl)aminopropylmorpholine.

Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula (XXII):

R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t -(G) _v (XXII)

formula (XXII), in which:

- R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4, and

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of formula (XXII) described above in which:

- R ₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably t is equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,

- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, optionally ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. The C ₈ /C ₁₆ 1,4-alkyl (poly)glycosides, and in particular the decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are more particularly preferred. Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names ^PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or ^PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or otherwise the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

Preferably, use is made of 1,4-C ₈ /C ₁₆ alkyl(poly)glycosides, in particular in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference ^Plantacare® 818 UP.

With regard to mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average from 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly from 1 to 10 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 5.

The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulas:

RO[CH ₂ CH(CH ₂ OH)O] _m Н,

RO[CH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ O] _m H or

RO[CН(CН ₂ OН)CН ₂ O] _m Н ;

formulas in which:

- R represents a radical based on saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; R may optionally include heteroatoms, for example oxygen and nitrogen; And

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1.5 to 6.

In particular, R may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups. R preferably denotes mono- or polyhydroxylated C ₁₀ to C ₂₀ alkyl and/or alkenyl radicals.

It is possible to use, for example, polyglycerolated hydroxylauryl ether (3.5 mol) sold under the name ^Chimexane® NF from Chimex.

The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols which are suitable for carrying out the invention are chosen more particularly from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably correspond(s) to the (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) of formula (III) described above.

(Poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO). Among these, particular mention may be made of 2 EO lauryl alcohol, 3 EO lauryl alcohol, 3 EO decyl alcohol, 5 EO decyl alcohol and 20 EO oleyl alcohol. Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols can also be used.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from (C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, and more particularly (C ₈ to C ₁₈ alkyl) (poly)glycosides, C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid esters sorbitan ethoxylates, polyethoxylated C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

Amphoteric surfactant(s)

The surfactants in addition to the surfactants contained in the oil-in-water emulsion (a) can be amphoteric surfactants.

The amphoteric surfactant(s) which may be used in the present invention may be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a straight or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made in particular of (C ₈ to C ₂₀ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂ to C ₈ alkyl) betaines and (C ₈ to C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂ -C ₈ alkyl)sulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives which may be used, mention may also be made of the products of the respective formulas (XXIII) and (XXIV) below:

R _a -CON(Z)СН ₂ -(СН ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _с )(СН ₂ СOO ^- ) (XXIII)

in which :

- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an R _a -COOH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

- R _b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

- m is equal to 0, 1 or 2, and

- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

R _a' -CON(Z)CH ₂ -(CH ₂ ) _m' -N(В)(В') (XXIV)

in which :

- В represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX' with X' representing -CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

- В' represents -(CН ₂ ) _Z -Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y' representing -COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H or -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ Z',

- m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

- Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2- methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

- R _{a '} represents a C ₁₀ to C ₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably present in linseed oil or hydrolyzed coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C ₁₇ alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

Compounds corresponding to formula (XXIV) are preferred.

Among the compounds corresponding to the formula (XXIV) in which X' represents a hydrogen atom, mention may be made of the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, under the names sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

Other compounds corresponding to the formula (XXIV) are disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Examples which may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ^® С2M Concentrate, the sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.

It is also possible to use the compounds of formula (XXV):

Ra''Н-СН(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n -С(O)-N Н-(СH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _е ) (XXV)

in which :

- Ra'' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-C(O)OH preferably present in linseed oil or hydrolyzed coconut oil;

- Y'' represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(О)OZ'', -СH ₂ -СН(OН)-SO ₃ H or the group -СH ₂ -СН(OН)-SO ₃ - Z'', with Z'' representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- R _d and R _e represent, independently of one another, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; And

- n and n' designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (XXV), mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, such as that sold by the company Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C ₈ to C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl amido (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ to C ₂₀ alkyl ) amphoacetates and alkyl (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) amphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

When they are present in the cosmetic composition of the invention, the total quantity of surfactants in addition to the surfactants contained in the oil-in-water emulsion (a), advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of surfactants (i.e. corresponding to the total amount of surfactants present in the oil-in-water emulsion (a) + the total amount of optional surfactants in addition to the surfactants contained in the oil emulsion in water (a)) present in the cosmetic composition of the invention advantageously ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15 % by weight, most preferably from 0.5 to 12 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymers

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more cationic polymer(s).

The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized to cationic groups, which are preferably non-siliceous.

The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from any of those already known per se for styling the hair, namely, in particular, those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.

The preferred cationic polymers which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent which is directly connected to it.

The cationic polymers preferably have a weight average molecular mass of more than 10 ⁵ , preferably more than 10 ⁶ and more preferably between 10 ⁶ and 10 ⁸ .

Among the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the invention, mention can be made more particularly of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type.

The polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type which can be used in the composition according to the present invention are in particular those described in French patents 2,505,348 and 2,542,997.

Among these polymers, mention may in particular be made of:

1. homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formulas (XXVI), (XXVII), (XXVIII) and (XXIX) below:

formulas in which,

- R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group,

- the R ₅ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group,

- the A's, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- R ₆ , R ₇ and R ₈ , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and

- X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide, and better still a chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower alkyls (in C ₁ to C ₄ ), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

(2) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also oxidation products and/or or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

(3) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine. These polyaminoamides can be cross-linked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide. These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

(4) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363.

Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the polymers of adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(5) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to secondary amine group of the polyamino amide between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or as a variant under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of an adipic acid/epoxypropyl-diethylenetriamine copolymer. .

(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (XXX) or (XXXI):

(XXX)

(XXXI)

in which, k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R ₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of one another, denote an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, an amido alkyl group (C ₁ to C ₄ ) lower, or R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and its counterparts of low weight-average molecular weights, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name Merquat 550.

(7) The particular quaternary ammonium polymer containing repeating units corresponding to the formula (XXXII):

(XXXII)

in which,

- R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ represent a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl group substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a COOR ₁₇ D or CONHR ₁₇ D group where R ₁₇ is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group,

- A ₁ and B ₁ represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted into the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A ₁ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₅ can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring.

In addition, if A ₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B ₁ can also denote a group (CH ₂ ) _n -CO-D-OC-(CH ₂ ) _p -, in which:

n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,

in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a radical based on a linear or branched hydrocarbon or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:

-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -,

-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O] _y -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-,

in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization,

b) a secondary bis-diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative,

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a radical based on linear or branched hydrocarbon, or otherwise the divalent radical -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ - CH ₂ -,

d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers have a number average molecular mass generally between 1000 and 100,000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 94,02 6 020.

Use can more particularly be made of polymers which are formed of repeating units corresponding to the formula (XXXIII):

(XXXIII)

in which, R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing approximately 1 to 4 carbon atoms, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 , and X ^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A compound of formula (XXXIII) which is particularly preferred is that for which R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ represent a methyl radical and r = 3, s = 6 and X = Cl, called hexadimethrine chloride in the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

(8) Quaternary polyammonium polymers formed in particular from units of formula (XXXIV):

(XXXIV)

in which,

- R ₂₂ , R ₂₃ , R ₂₄ and R ₂₅ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _pOH ,

where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R ₂₂ , R ₂₃ , R ₂₄ and R ₂₅ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- t and u, which can be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

- v is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

- X ^- denotes an anion such as a halide, and

- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -.

Such compounds are in particular described in patent application EP-A-122 324.

Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the products Mirapol ^® A 15, Mirapol ^® AD1, Mirapol ^® AZ1 and Mirapol ^® 175, sold by the company Miranol.

(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and/or vinylimidazole, for example the products sold under the names ^Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 and Luviquat Excellence by the company BASF.

(10) Cationic polysaccharides, preferably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and gums of cationic galactomannan.

Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in French patent 1,492,597. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which have been reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

A cationic cellulose copolymer that may especially be mentioned is Polyquaternium-4, which is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl cellulose and diallyldimethylammonium chloride.

Mention may also be made of associative celluloses such as quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty chains, such as the product Quatrisoft LM 200 ^® , sold by the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and the products Crodacel QM ^® (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL ^® (C ₁₂ alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS ^® (C ₁₈ alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride ) sold by Croda.

Mention may also be made of other hydroxyethylcellulose derivatives with a fatty chain such as the commercial products Softcat Polymer SL ^® such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company Amerchol / Dow chemical of name INCI Polyquaternium-67.

Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US Patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt such as 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride are used, for example.

(11) Cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and derivatives of chitin.

Cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in particular, chemically modified polypeptides carrying quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain, or grafted onto them. Their molecular mass can vary, for example, from 1,500 to 10,000 and in particular from 2,000 to 5,000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention may be made in particular of:

- collagen hydrolysates bearing triethylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Quat-Pro E by the company Maybrook and designated in the CTFA dictionary by Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate,

- collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride and trimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, which are sold under the name Quat-Pro S by the company Maybrook and are designated in the CTFA dictionary by Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen,

- animal protein hydrolysates bearing trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Crotein BTA by the company Croda and designated in the CTFA dictionary by Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein,

- protein hydrolysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on the chain of the polypeptide, said ammonium groups comprising at least one alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, among others, of:

- Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups include a C ₁₂ alkyl group,

- Croquat M, in which the quaternary ammonium groups comprise C ₁₀ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups,

- Croquat S, in which the quaternary ammonium groups include a C ₁₈ alkyl group,

- Crotein Q, in which the quaternary ammonium groups comprise at least one alkyl group comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These various products are sold by the Croda company.

Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to the formula (XXXV):

(XXXV)

wherein, X ^- is an anion of an organic or mineral acid, A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R ₂₆ denotes a lipophilic group comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, R ₂₇ represents a alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of the products sold by the company Inolex, under the name Lexein QX 3000, designated in the CTFA dictionary as Cocotrimonium Collagen Hydrolysate.

Mention may also be made of quaternized vegetable proteins such as wheat, maize or soy proteins, for example quaternized wheat proteins. Mention may be made of those sold by Croda under the names Hydrotriticum WQ or QM, designated in the CTFA dictionary by Cocodimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, Hydrotriticum QL, designated in the CTFA dictionary by Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, or otherwise Hydrotriticum QS, designated in the CTFA Dictionary by Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.

(12) Polyamines such as Polyquart R H sold by Cognis, referred to as polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

(13) Polymers comprising in their structure:

(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

_{CH2CHNH2 (} A)

(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

_CH2CHNHCOH (B)

In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide.

This hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.

The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, can range from 1,000 to 3,000,000 g/mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 g/mol and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g /mol.

The cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from 0.5 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 1.0 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 2.0 to 10 meq/g.

The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are in particular sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for example, and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 and Lupamin 9010.

The cationic polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention are preferably chosen from families (1) and (10) mentioned above, and mixtures thereof.

When they are present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total amount of cationic polymer(s) advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Additives

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.

As additives that can be used in accordance with the invention, mention can be made of non-silicone fatty substances, silicones other than silicones, emulsion polymers, amphoteric, anionic, or nonionic, anti-dandruff agents, anti- seborrhea, agents for preventing hair loss and/or promoting hair regrowth, fatty substances, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners , antioxidants, hydroxy acids, flavors and preservatives.

It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select this (these) optional additional compound(s) so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or are not materially, adversely affected by the contemplated addition(s).

The above additives can generally be present in an amount, for each of them, between 0.001% and 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular dyeing keratin fibers, which consists in applying a composition as described above to said keratin fibers, and after an optional exposure time, its removal by rinsing. .

The exposure time of the composition on the keratin fibers can range from 2 seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

The composition can be applied to wet or dry keratin fibers.

After rinsing, the fibers can be dried or left to dry.

Preferably, the method for treating keratin fibers is for conditioning keratin fibers.

In the present invention, the expression “keratin fibres” designates human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.

EXAMPLES

In the examples which follow and unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are given as percentages by mass of ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition.

Shade extraction measurement process

Extraction of acid dyes from hair strands using Milli-Q water at 80°C with constant agitation and quantification of the extract by reverse phase gradient high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) equipped with a detector at photodiode array (PDA for “Photo Diode Array”).

The locks of hair were cut into pieces and about 400 mg of these hair samples were weighed precisely and transferred to a 100 mL beaker. To this, add 20 mL of water and stir the sample on a magnetic stirrer at 80°C for 30 min at 200 rpm. The extract from the beaker was transferred to a 100 mL volumetric flask and the hair samples were left in the beaker. The extraction was repeated 3 more cycles using 20 mL of Milli-Q water for each cycle. The final volume was adjusted to 100 mL with water. The above solutions were centrifuged at 14,000 rpm for 5 minutes followed by transfer of 1 mL each of the clear supernatants to a 1.5 mL HPLC vial for HPLC analysis.

During the fourth extract, we made sure that there was no visible tint color in the hair sample and in the extract. If the color persisted, one more extraction cycle was performed and the dilution volume increased accordingly. After the final extract was collected, 50 mL of water was added to the hair sample. The hair sample was then kept overnight. This extract was also injected separately and it was ensured that no peak was observed at the retention time of the sample.

A single injection of the diluent into the chromatographic system was performed and it was ensured that the diluents did not interfere with the retention time of the peak of interest. The sample was injected into the HPLC system.

To. Composition

The following composition A according to the present invention, and the following comparative compositions B1 and B2 were prepared from the ingredients indicated, in percentage of active material (AM), in tables 6 and 7 below.

AT
(invention) Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 Stearate Emulsion 4% emulsion (i.e. 0.4% AM amodimethicone + 1.6% AM dimethicone) Isoparaffin (C ₁₃ to C ₁₆ ) 15 Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate 0.5 Blue 1 0.1 Red 33 0.15 PEG-10 dimethicone 4 Black 2 0.1 Yellow 5 0.15 sodium chloride 2 Conservatives 0.5 disteardimonium hectorite 0.35 Water Qs 100

B1
(comparative) B2
(comparative) Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 Stearate Emulsion 4% emulsion (i.e. 0.4% AM amodimethicone + 1.6% AM dimethicone) 4% emulsion (i.e. 0.4% AM amodimethicone + 1.6% AM dimethicone) Isododecane 0.6 - Acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer 0.4 - Isononyl isononanoate - 15 Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate - 1 Blue 1 0.06 0.06 Red 33 0.01 0.01 PEG-10 dimethicone 4 4 Conservative 0.5 0.5 disteardimonium hectorite 0.35 0.35 Propylene glycol 2 2 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1 1 Iron oxides (CI77499) 1 1 Ext. purple 2 0.04 0.04 Orange 4 0.08 0.08 Charcoal powder 0.025 0.025 Dimethicone (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 2 CST) 19 - Magnesium sulfate 1 1 Water Qs 100 Qs 100

The following conditioning base composition C was prepared from the ingredients indicated, in percentage of active material (AM), in Table 8 below.

VS
(Conditioning Basis) Cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 1 Myristyl alcohol 0.4 Cetrimonium chloride 2.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.25 Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimonium chloride 2.57 Cetyl alcohol 4 Behentrimonium chloride 0.6 Cetyl esters 0.8 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate 0.75 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1 Conservatives 0.5 Water Qs 100

b. Protocol

Compositions A and C were premixed in a 1:1 ratio before application. Then, the resulting composition was applied to 90% gray Indian natural hair locks of 1 g. The amount applied per gram of lock is 0.4 g (ie 0.2 g of composition A + 0.2 g of composition C). After an exposure time of 3 min, the locks were washed with a shampoo, they were rinsed with water and then dried. This study was carried out in triplicate (3 locks). The total color deposit was then measured by HPLC, according to the protocol previously described “Process for measuring color extraction”.

A similar protocol was applied for compositions B1 and C, and compositions B2 and C, respectively.

vs. Results

The results thus obtained are given in Table 9 below. The results are expressed in µg/g of hair.

Upper part of the wick Middle portion of the wick Lower part of the wick Composition A
(invention) 613 646 580 Composition B1 (comparative) 350 292 223 Composition B2 (comparative) 268 272 182

It can be observed that the locks treated with the composition according to the invention (composition A) allow a good uniform deposit of color over the total length of the lock.

On the contrary, the difference in shade deposit between the upper and lower portions of the lock is greater for the locks treated with comparative compositions.

In addition, the total color deposit is lower for locks treated with the comparative compositions than with a composition according to the invention.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
To. an oil-in-water emulsion having a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
- a mixture of silicones comprising (i) one or more dialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) one or more amino silicone(s) s) having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
- an emulsifier blend comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier blend has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and
- some water ;
b. one or more alkanes comprising from 6 to 32 carbon atoms in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
vs. one or more direct tints and/or one or more pigments. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the dialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl are of formula (IX):
R′ ₃ SiO(R′ ₂ SiO) _p SiR′ ₃ (IX),
in which :
- the R', which are identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and
- p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000;
and preferably are PDMSs (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones) terminated by trimethylsilyl. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone (ii) is of formula (X): XR ₂ Si(OSiAR) _n (OSiR ₂ ) _m OSiR ₂ X (X),
in which :
- the Rs, which are identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- the Xs, which are identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl (OH) or C ₁ to C ₆ alkoxy group; preferably X is R,
- A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ -] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is a C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene radical, of preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, the R ² s, which are identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical , preferably a hydrogen atom, R ³ is a C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 0 or 1;
And
- m+n is an integer from 50 to approximately 1000, preferably from 50 to 600;
preferably A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ -] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or - CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, R ² is hydrogen, R ³ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 1. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mixture of silicones preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in an amount of 70 to 90% by weight, preferably 75 to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the mixture of silicones, and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25° C. and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the silicone mixture. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mixture of emulsifiers comprises one or more emulsifiers chosen from:
(i) polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ethers, in particular (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula: R ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _c OH with:
- R ₃ representing a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₄₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C ₈ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and
- c being an integer from 1 to 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 150;
and more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO);
(ii) polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ )alkylphenyl ethers;
(iii) polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) sorbitan fatty acid esters, in particular polyethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably of 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylene sorbitan (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; And
(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C ₈ to C ₃₂ ) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil-in-water emulsion comprises:
- the mixture of emulsifiers in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion; and or
- nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion; and or
- cationic emulsifiers in a total amount of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion; and or
- the mixture of silicones in a total amount of 40 to 60% by weight, preferably 45 to 55% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion; and or
- the dialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl in a total amount of 35 to 45% by weight, preferably 38 to 42% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion; and or
- the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 8 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion; and or
- water in an amount of 25 to 50% by weight, preferably 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably 35 to 42% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion has a D50 particle size of 100-300 nm, preferably 150-250 nm, more preferably 150-225 nm , and most preferably from 160 to 200 nm, expressed by volume. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil-in-water emulsion is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight , better still from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkane(s) comprises (comprise) from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, most preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms. Process for treating keratin fibres, in particular dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibers a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, and after an optional exposure time, its elimination by rinsing.