Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/042—Gels
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
  • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
  • A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the coloration of hair and hair, in particular compositions based on natural dyestuffs.
• the invention relates to compositions in the form of a gel or a cream comprising an extract which makes it possible to attach the coloration to the hair fiber.
• the invention also relates to a process for obtaining such a composition and its use for permanently coloring hair and / or hair.
• oxidation chemical stains which represent the main class of products currently used.
• These products are composed of colorless precursors of dyes, called oxidation bases which, combined with strongly oxidizing products (hydrogen peroxide) and at a high pH, give rise by a process of oxidative condensation to colored compounds within the hair fiber.
• plant dyes consisting of a mixture of crushed plants applied as a poultice to the hair after dispersion in hot water.
• Three main plants are used for all references currently marketed: henna leaves (Lawsonia inermis: orange), indigo leaves (Indigofera tinctoria or gludolosa: blue) and cassia leaves (Cassia obovata: little dye) .
• “Mixed” stains which are oxidation dyes to which vegetable coloring extracts have been added. These compositions are formulated on the same principle as chemical staining, the addition of vegetable dye extracts being more a marketing argument than a real benefit in terms of hue obtained and safety.
• Temporary coloring they are usually used to temporarily hide the white hair or to add a shade to the natural shade.
• the temporary coloring acts on the outside of the cuticle and adds a color to the surface of the hair. It can not lighten dark hair and only very rarely resists shampooing. They exist in several galenic: rinses, coloring foams, hair mascaras, sprays dyes but also shampoos or colored care that "ensure" a relative longevity to the oxidation coloring.
• Semi-permanent stains are designed to deposit the color on the surface of the hair and have no lightening effect.
• the formula includes an activator that develops the color and helps to expand the cuticle so that the color can settle.
• the semi-permanent color does not penetrate the cortex and lasts only six to eight weeks, fading with the shampoo.
• o Semi-permanent coloring is also deposited without lightening effect.
• the molecules used are smaller and penetrate into the cortex of the hair, which allows them to be deposited on and in the cuticle.
• the semi-permanent color is considered more effective for covering white hair. The color lasts longer and does not fade with the shampoo.
• Permanent oxidation dyes they are made to penetrate the hair permanently and deposit the color directly in the hair cortex. Their formulas contain a developer that dilates the cuticle and allows molecules to enter the cortex. These stains also contain aniline derivatives that combine with hydrogen peroxide to produce larger tinted molecules that remain "trapped" in the cortex. Thanks to their formulation, permanent stains are able to deposit colors, but they can also be used to lighten the hair color, all depending on the dose of hydrogen peroxide included in the formulation.
• the plant coloring is historically recognized especially in Eastern beauty rites.
• the natural color coats the hair and forms a protective sheath around it.
• the coloring molecules bind to the upper layers of the hair fiber and gradually fade.
• Existing ranges of plant stains consist mainly of powdered coloring plants, micronized soy protein, alginate, thermal rock crystals, etc. In particular some historical plants are known and currently used for particular their ability to hang on the hair.
• Henna that allows a durable grip on the hair that does not fade over time. But it has the major disadvantage of offering only warm, coppery tones. Its advantage is certain in different types of formulations but deprives hairdressers and its users of another category of colors, especially cold tones such as dark chestnuts, neutral chestnuts and ashes.
• the natural colors apply in one or two stages with a long exposure time (minimum 1:30) and using a steam helmet which represents a Deaf investment and additional energy expenditure.
• the ranges are limited.
• Its galenic poultice is friable and heavy (about 300 g of poultice to apply constituted with 150 g of coloring powder which must be mixed with water), it is unpleasant to the application and rinsing both for the hairdresser and for the person who is coloring the hair.
• the reproducibility of the color is random, the dark brown and the blond are very difficult to obtain, the colors of degrade in the time and the cover of the white hair is insufficient.
• the object of the invention is to provide a product which overcomes all the disadvantages of the prior art coloring products, in particular a product which has the advantages of both natural and chemical colorations, without presenting the same. disadvantages.
• the subject of the invention is a composition in the form of a gel or a cream comprising at least one solvent and at least one Lawsonia inermis extract, the said extract being present between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. .
• Lawsonia inermis is a naturally occurring plant in the tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, South Asia and Australasia. It contains a particular molecule, dyestuff, lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) of formula:
• It also includes naphthoquinone derivatives, phenolic compounds, terpenoids, sterols, aliphatic derivatives, xanthones, coumarin, fatty acids, and amino acids.
• Lawsonia inermis leaf powder produces red, yellow and orange hues, used in textile and body dyeing (coloring and hair care, ephemeral skin tattoos) for centuries. Its orange color is often very unsightly in some formulations.
• composition according to the invention comprises an extract of Lawsonia inermis, mixed with a solvent, and in a small amount (less than 10%).
• this extract under these conditions allows:
• the composition according to the invention has many other advantages. It is a permanent color that works perfectly without synthetic product, non-toxic and does not alter the hair fiber, without unsightly reflection over time. In addition the invention has a rapid exposure time, a wide range of colors, reproducibility of tints, a pleasant galenic and easy to use, there is no mixing to perform, the composition in gel or cream form is ready to use.
• the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a composition, and its use for permanent hair coloring.
• FIG. 1 represents a scanning electron microscope image of a hair fiber damaged by a chemical composition-type oxidation dyeing
• FIG. 3 shows an optical microscope image of a hair fiber colored in plant by a vegetable coloring of the composition object of the invention.
• permanent coloring within the meaning of the invention is meant a durable coloration over time, where after 3 weeks (conventional time between 2 colorations), a demarcation is visible between the previously colored hair and the newly rooted hair. This is called a "root effect”.
• extract of a raw material X within the meaning of the invention means a set of molecules obtained from all or part of said raw material X, but excludes biomass that is to say the raw material raw or powder form.
• the subject of the invention is therefore a composition, in gel or cream form, comprising at least one solvent and at least one Lawsonia inermis extract, said Lawsonia inermis extract being present between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
• the composition is therefore in the form of cream or gel.
• it has a viscosity (measured according to the Brookfield DV-I Prime method) of at least 400 mPa.s measured at 20 ° C.
• the Lawsonia inermis extract present in the composition represents in total between 1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Preferably it represents at least 1.8% and / or at most 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
• the Lawsonia inermis extract contains at least Loawsone.
• the rate of Lawsone present in this extract is between 0.05% and 2%. It may contain other molecules such as naphthoquinone derivatives, phenolics, terpenoids, sterols, aliphatic derivatives, xanthones, coumarin, fatty acids, and amino acids.
• the extract is preferably an extract which has been enriched in amino acids. This addition of amino acids in addition to those possibly present in the extract, may have been made at the time of extraction or after.
• the amino acids of the extract including those initially present as a result of the extraction and those optionally added may represent in particular between 0.01% and 5% of the extract by weight of dry matter of the extract.
• the extraction process is carried out from dry leaves of Lawsonia inermis at 15-55 ° C by solubilization followed by centrifugation, filtration, concentration and drying steps.
• the Lawsonia inermis extract present in the composition according to the invention is an extract obtained from leaves of Lawsonia inermis.
• the extract of Lawsonia inermis is mixed with a solvent in its cream or gel.
• the solvent is preferably between 50 and 95% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
• the solvent present in the composition is a solvent compatible with cosmetic and / or capillary applications. It is very preferably a solvent without synthetic molecule and / or nontoxic, and environmentally friendly.
• the solvent may in particular be water or an aqueous-alcoholic solution, and in particular an aqueous-alcoholic solution comprising at least 50% water by weight or by volume.
• the coloration obtained when the composition is applied to white hair may be a blond color, more or less pronounced depending on the amount of extracted in the composition.
• the lawsonia inermis extract is the only coloring molecule present in the composition according to the invention, it is preferably in gel form.
• the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one other coloring molecule, in addition to that contained in the Lawsonia inermis extract.
• the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one other coloring molecule, in addition to that (s) contained in the Lawsonia inermis extract, it may be in the form of a gel or cream.
• the coloring molecule may be any coloring molecule, but it is preferably a coloring molecule of natural origin.
• This coloring molecule can be used alone in the composition.
• said coloring molecule is contained in an extract of raw material of natural origin and / or in a powder of a biomass of natural raw material.
• the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the extract of Lawsonia inermis, at least one other extract of raw material of natural origin comprising at least one coloring molecule and / or at least one powder of a biomass natural raw material comprising at least one coloring molecule.
• each extract of matter first of natural origin in addition to the Lawsonia inermis extract is preferably present between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.5 and 7%.
• each raw material biomass powder of natural origin comprising at least one coloring molecule is preferably present between 0.5 and 50% by weight. weight of the total weight of the composition, in particular between 1 and 30%.
• the raw material of natural origin of the extracts and / or powders comprising at least one coloring molecule present in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from plants and / or shells and / or insects and / or microorganisms and / or lichens and / or fungi comprising at least one coloring molecule. It may be, for example, dyeing plants, and in particular:
• anthocyanins are pigments dissolved in the cell juice of plants and chemical structures very similar to those of flavonoids, sources of yellow dyes . Most of the red, purple and blue hues of flowers and fruits around the world are due to these pigments.
• indigo plants dark blue coloring matter, differs from all other vegetable dyes: it does not exist directly in the many "indigo plants”.
• the indican and the isatans A and B present in the indigo plants are decomposed by hydrolysis into colorless indoxyl and sugar. By grouping 2 molecules of indoxyl, in the presence of the oxygen of the air is formed indigo,
• plants with tannins that is to say substances of vegetable origin of astringent flavor. They are very widespread in the plant kingdom, some botanical families are particularly rich: conifers, legumes, cashew nuts, fagaceae.
• it may be one of the following natural raw materials: Amla, Bois rouge. Buckthorn, Cachou, Campeche, Chestnut, Coreopsis, Eucalyptus, Garance, Broom, Indigo, Mimosa, Blackberries, Myrobaian, Nerprun, Pastel Dyers, Quebracho Colorado, Reseda, Rosemary, Sappan, Solidage, Sorghum, Tara, Annatto, Walnut. Cinnamon, Turmeric, Henna, Hibiscus, Goldenseal, Katam, Liane of Ternate, Oregon, Manjishta, Multani, Orcanette, Rhapontic.
• composition according to the invention may contain at least one of the extracts or powders presented in Table 1 below;
• Table 1 Examples of extracts and powders containing at least one coloring molecule that may be present in the composition according to the invention in addition to the extract of Lawsonia inermis
• composition according to the invention may contain one or more excipients, that is to say any other component than the dye molecules (or extracts or powders containing them) and that the solvent.
• excipients are non-toxic products for humans and the environment and may be of natural origin.
• preservatives such as those of natural origin such as naticide, grapefruit extract, rosemary, vitamin E, propolis, etc. or those of synthetic origin that can be labeled Bio, such as benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, etc.
• Texturizing agents in particular texturizing agents making it possible to obtain a texture in the form of a cream or gel, such as, for example, guar, acacia, xanthan, arabic gum, etc.
• Perfume adjusters such as, for example, denaturants and odor adjusters, Perfume agents
• PH adjusters such as, for example, sodium hydroxide, citric acid, lactic acid, etc.
• active principles of hair and / or cosmetics in particular active principles capable of improving the final quality of the hair, such as, for example, phytokeratin, spirulina, glycerin, etc.
• oils especially vegetable oils.
• essential oils especially for their perfuming and antioxidant properties, such as, for example, essential oils of rosemary, turmeric, grapefruit, clove, etc.
• surfactants natural or of synthetic origin that can be labeled Bio. dye powders, that is to say mixtures of plant powders, plant extracts, pH adjusters or any other natural material to intensify the final rendering of the coloring.
• excipients when present, each preferably represent between 0.05 and 10% by weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention can be obtained by implementing any suitable method. Preferably, it is obtained by implementing a manufacturing method comprising the following steps:
• the mixing speed is preferably at least 50 rpm, preferably at least 1000 rpm. It may especially be between 50 and 3000 revolutions / minute, preferably between 1000 and 3000 revolutions / minute.
• the temperature at which each mixture is carried out is included between 40 ° and 70 ° C.
• the duration of each mixture is preferably between 5 and 30 minutes.
• the temperature at which each mixture is carried out is the ambient temperature (in particular between 15 and 30 ° C.).
• the duration of each mixture is preferably between 30 minutes and 2 hours.
• composition according to the invention can be preserved preferably for at least 30 words.
• compositions according to the invention when they are applied to the hair or the hair, make it possible to color them durably, with a beautiful color, without unsightly reflection and a very good behavior over time, while being able to be constituted mainly or only natural ingredients, non-toxic and non-irritating.
• the invention makes it possible to propose a wide range of colors for the permanent hair coloring with a fast exposure time, of maximum lh30, generally less than or equal to one hour.
• the invention therefore also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the permanent dyeing of hair or hair.
• the invention relates to a permanent hair dyeing method, comprising the implementation of the following steps:
• composition according to the invention to all clean hair, - leave between 10 minutes and 1 hour 30 minutes,
• the hair must be clean before the application of the coloring composition according to the invention.
• the hair is preferably washed and rinsed before application of the composition. They can however be dry or wet.
• the composition may for example be applied by brushing it by spreading it from the front of the hair to the back.
• a charlotte or a food-like film is then preferentially placed on the hair.
• the hair may be subjected to heat, especially between 35 and 65 ° C, to accelerate the exposure time and promote the fixing of coloring molecules in particular.
• heat especially between 35 and 65 ° C, to accelerate the exposure time and promote the fixing of coloring molecules in particular.
• the hair can optionally be washed after the exposure time before being rinsed.
• compositions can be obtained as follows:
• compositions presented in the examples were tested on locks of hair according to the protocol described below, and compared with a coloration of the same locks with a prior art chemical composition type oxidation dyeing product of the following formula:
• Emulsifiers ethoxylated fatty alcohols
• Solvents (propylene glycol, benzyl alcohol) 20
• Viscosity agents (fatty alcohols, 10
• FIG. 1 For a lock treated according to the prior art and in FIGS. 2 and 3 for a lock treated with the product according to the invention. It is found that for the hair colored with a composition according to the invention, the hair scales are perfectly smooth, unlike the hair treated with a coloration of the prior art whose scales are detached, the hair structure being irreparably damaged. In addition, in Figure 3 it is observed that the composition according to the invention is deposited well on the hair fiber.

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• 2017
  • 2017-08-17 FR FR1770861A patent/FR3070128B1/fr active Active
• 2018
  • 2018-08-17 US US16/639,035 patent/US20200222306A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2018-08-17 WO PCT/EP2018/072312 patent/WO2019034770A1/fr unknown
  • 2018-08-17 EP EP18765364.7A patent/EP3668603A1/de active Pending
  • 2018-08-17 CA CA3072662A patent/CA3072662A1/fr not_active Abandoned

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