FR3075645B1 - PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATINIC FIBERS FROM INDIGOFERE (S), HENNE (S) AND SPECIAL ALKALIN (S) AGENT (S) POWDER (S) - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is (I) a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated in several steps, comprising at least one staining step a) of said fibers implementing a dye cosmetic composition comprising indigestible plant powder (s) i) and henna ii); at least one treatment step b) said fibers implementing a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more agent (s) agent (s) alkaline (s) iii) selected (s) from alkanolamines; it being understood that composition A is preferably used first of all on keratin fibers; and that the composition B is used on the keratinous fibers after application of the composition A and (II) the use of a composition B comprising one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from the alkanolamine (s) iii) to stabilize the day of application the staining of keratinous fibers from indigo and henna and / or to improve the intensity, and / or the rise of the color and the tenacity of the coloring.

Description

PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATINIC FIBERS FROM INDIGOFERE (S), HENNE (S) AND SPECIAL ALKALIN (S) AGENT (S) POWDER (S)

The subject of the invention is (I) a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated in several steps, comprising at least one staining step a) of said fibers implementing a dye cosmetic composition comprising i) powder and / or an indigestible plant extract (s), and ii) henna; at least one treatment step b) said fibers implementing a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more agent (s) agent (s) alkaline (s) iii) selected (s) from alkanolamines; it being understood that composition A is preferably applied first to the keratinous fibers; and that the composition B is applied to the keratinous fibers after application of the composition A and (II) the use of a composition B comprising one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from alkanolamine (s) ) iii) to stabilize the color of the colored fibers from henna and indigo over time (the day of the implementation of the coloring process) and to improve the intensity, the rise of the color and / or the holding of the color.

Indeed, the colorings from indigo and henna are generally evolutive in time in terms of color; they have a yellow / green color characteristic on the day of application (that is to say, the day of the coloring). This color "raw" unattractive and unappreciated users of color, which evolve to the desired color after a few hours (48H to 1 week) and can turn color over time (appearance of purplish red highlights after generally 2 to Three weeks). There is therefore a need to stabilize this coloration to obtain aesthetic coloration on the day of application (brown example without yellow / green reflections) which evolves little in time (without color change).

Two major modes of staining human keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, are known.

The first, called oxidation or permanent staining, consists in implementing one or more oxidation dye precursors, more particularly one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.

Usually, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, make it possible to access, by a process of oxidative condensation, colored species which remain trapped inside the fiber.

Very often, the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indolic compounds.

The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.

The second mode of staining, called direct or semi-permanent staining, comprises the application of direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers. Given the nature of the molecules used, these remain rather on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little inside the fiber, compared to the small molecules of precursors of oxidation dyes. The main advantages of this type of staining is not to require an oxidizing agent which limits the degradation of the fibers and not to use dyes having a certain reactivity, thus limiting the risks of intolerance.

The first hair dyes were semi-permanent. One of the best-known natural dyes is indigo (see Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "hair preparation", point 5.2.3, 2006 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.a 12 571.pub2). Indigo continues to be used to beautify women by coloring hair, nails, or to color leather, silk and wool fabrics, etc. Indigo [482-89-3] is a blue natural dye and its indirect isubere is red. Their crude formulas are: C16H10N2O2; and their chemical structures are as follows:

Depending on the oxidation. Oxidation, isatin may give indogotin or indirubin. (Maugard et al, 2001). The presence of these two isomers explains the presence of a purple color of the indigo more or less marked according to the respective proportion in the hair of the two isomers formed in the hair (in particular purple to purple if the amount of indirubine increases).

Indigo is derived from indican can be prepared from different plants called indigo-like Indigofera tinctoria, suffruticosa indigo, Polygonum tinctorium etc (see Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, updated 17/04 / 2009, DOI: 10.1002 / 0471238961.0425051903150618.a01.pub2). Indigestible plants are usually cut and soaked in hot, heated, fermented and air-oxidized water to release the purple-blue indigo (see Rev. Chem., 2011, 111, 25372561, p. 2537-2561). Indigo is the result of the hydrolysis and oxidation of the indican (glycosylated precursor).

The problem is that staining from indigo leaf is difficult because the kinetics of staining in the keratinous fibers is variable. In addition, the coloring process is unstable. Indigo theoretically provides a blue color to white hair, and a "cold" ash-like color. Nevertheless, the staining process from indigo is difficult to control because of the competitive reaction of formation of indirubin (also involving an oxidation step with formation of isatin yellow intermediate color) bringing yellow reflections to complementary violins with brown hair in time.

The colorings resulting from mixtures of indigo and henna are therefore generally progressive in time in terms of color, they have a yellow / green color characteristic on the day of coloring (color "raw" unattractive, little appreciated by color consumers ) which evolve towards the desired colorings after a few hours (48H to 1 weeks) and can turn color over time (appearance of purplish red glints after generally 2 to 3 weeks). There is therefore a need to stabilize this coloration to obtain aesthetic coloration on the day of application (brown example without yellow / green reflections) which evolves little in time (without color change).

To remedy this problem of unattractive coloring on the day of coloring and color evolution, it is known to "dope" the coloring by adding direct dyes to mask the undesirable reflections. The dyes are generally employed in direct dyeing such as nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes (see for example EP 0 806 199). This option has the disadvantage for users of natural products, or supporters of "natural / organic", that the color is partly made from synthetic dyes. However the reflection made on the day of the application does not prevent the bend of color in time (evolution of the yellow reflection always present in the fiber, although masked, towards red).

Moreover, the colorations obtained from indigo are not always homogeneous between the root and the tip or from one fiber to another (The Science of Hair Care, C. Bouillon, J. Wilkinson, 2d Ed. , CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group, Boca Raton, London, pp. 236-241 (2005)).

Finally, the indigo as a molecule is insoluble in water while the henna is soluble to it, causing a mixture of 2 dyes significant inhomogeneities of rise in color between the root and tip (selectivity).

There is therefore a real need to develop coloring processes which make it possible to obtain powerful, aesthetic and natural colorations at the end of the coloration, and which make it possible in particular to obtain rapid colorations, the coloration of which does not present any discoloration. yellow / green reflections which are considered unsightly by the user, having a good rise in color, less aggressive for the hair and at the same time resistant to external agents (light, bad weather, shampoo), which are stubborn and / or homogeneous while remaining powerful and / or chromatic, which does not change over time, especially towards red highlights.

This object is achieved by the present invention which relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, wherein said fibers are treated in several steps, comprising:

at least one staining step a) of said fibers employing a coloring cosmetic composition A comprising i) powder and / or extract of indigestible plant (s), and ii) henna;

at least one treatment step b) said fibers implementing a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more agent (s) alkaline agent (s) iii) chosen from alkanolamines;

it being understood that composition A is preferably applied first to the keratinous fibers; composition B being applied to the keratinous fibers after application of composition A;

the method preferably implementing at least one rinsing step, and / or a washing step between the dyeing step employing composition A and the treatment step implementing the application of composition B .

Thus, according to a first embodiment, the dyeing method according to the invention preferably implements a first treatment step b) with a composition B comprising one or more alkanolamines as alkaline agent, then a dyeing step a ) keratinous fibers via the application of a dye composition A on the fibers comprising indigestible plant powder (s) and henna.

According to a second particularly preferred embodiment, the dyeing method according to the invention preferably implements a first step of dyeing the keratinous fibers via the application of a coloring composition A to the fibers comprising plant powder ( s) indigestible (s) and henna, then in post-treatment a treatment step with a composition B comprising one or more alkanolamines as alkaline agent. the. in post-treatment.

The subject of the invention is also the use of alkaline agent (s) ii) chosen from alkanolamines (and of a composition B comprising the alkaline agents as defined hereinafter). to accelerate the obtaining of a stable and aesthetic color that is to say without yellow reflections the day of the application and not evolving towards the red in the time and / or in terms of power and intensity staining and / or to improve the tenacity of the staining.

The invention also relates to the use of agent (s) alkali (s) ii) selected from alkanolamines (and a composition B comprising the alkaline agents such as (d) immi (s) below) for improving the kinetics of the coloration of keratin materials stained from indigo, especially in terms of power and intensity of the coloration, and / or to improve the tenacity of the coloration.

The method for dyeing keratinous fibers according to the invention has the advantage of coloring said fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, with results of natural colorings without yellow / green reflections, and / or powerful colorations, chromatic, wash-resistant, perspiration, sebum and light and more durable without alteration. In addition, the colorations obtained from the process are homogeneous from the root to the tip of a fiber (low color selectivity).

The compositions used according to the invention are cosmetic compositions

i.e. they are cosmetically acceptable therefore suitable for use for application on keratin fibers, especially for application to human keratinous fibers, such as the hair.

Preferably, the composition A is obtained by mixing just before use the indigenous plant powder (s) i) and the henna ii) with an aqueous composition to obtain a coloring composition A ready to use, preferably under the shape of a poultice. Preferably, compositions A and / or B are aqueous compositions, preferably A and B are aqueous compositions.

i) plant powder (s) indiqofère (s)

The coloring composition A) according to the invention comprises indigestible plant powder (s) and / or a dye extract of indigestible plant (s).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "indigo plant extract" is used to mean an "indigo-plant dye extract".

As indigo plant we can cite many species from the genera:

- Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffruticosa, Indigofera articulata Indigofera arrecta, Indigofera gerardiana, Indigofera argenta, Indigofera indica, Indigofera longiracemosa;

- Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria;

- Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium (Persicaria tinctoria);

Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria;

- Calanthus such as Calanthe veratrifolia; and

- Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia.

Preferably the indigo plant is of the genus Indigofera and more particularly is Indigofera tinctoria, Suffructicosa or argentea, preferably Indigofera tinctoria.

All or part (especially leaves especially for Indigofera tinctoria) of the indigo plant can be used.

The indigestible plant powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US).

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the particle size of the indigestible plant powder is fine. According to the invention, more particularly is meant a particle size of less than or equal to 500 μm. Preferably, the powder consists of fine particles of size included between 50 and 300 μm and more particularly between 10 and 200 μm.

It is understood that said indigestible plant particles (s) preferably have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powders.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the powder and / or the indigestible plant extract (s) is present in composition A (anhydrous) in a content ranging from 10% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A, more particularly ranging from 20 to 90% by weight, preferably ranging from 20 to 80% by weight, when composition A does not comprise water or solvent.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition A is obtained by mixing just before use (that is to say extemporaneously) the powder and / or I extract of indigestible plant (s) i) and henna ii) with water or with an aqueous composition to obtain a ready-to-use coloring composition A, preferably in the form of a poultice.

According to this embodiment, the powder and / or indigestible plant extract (s) is present in composition A preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight composition A, more particularly ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 5 to 30% by weight, when said composition A is aqueous.

According to another particular embodiment composition A when ready for use comprises water.

It is therefore preferably aqueous. By "ready to use" is meant a composition ready to be applied directly to keranitic fibers.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition A of the invention may also contain one or more surfactant (s) preferably anionic (s) or nonionic (s).

The ready-to-use composition A applied to the keratinous fibers according to the process of the invention is preferably obtained from the mixture between powder and / or indole plant extract (s) i) in compact form. or not, henna ii), and an aqueous composition, preferably water.

Preferably the ready-to-use composition A applied to the keratinous fibers according to the process of the invention is in the form of a poultice.

Preferably, the ready-to-use coloring composition A comprises a water content ranging from 10% to 99% by weight, more particularly from 20% to 95% by weight, better still from 40% to 90% by weight relative to weight of the composition A ready to use.

For this purpose i) the powder and / or the indigestible plant extract (s), the henna ii) and optionally the additional compounds as described above, are mixed with an aqueous composition comprising: water, to obtain a poultice of creamy and pleasant consistency corresponding to the composition A ready to use. When the indigestible plant powder (s) is compact, it is crumbled in the aqueous composition, and preferably the compact composition is crumbled in water.

Henna ii)

The coloring composition A) according to the invention comprises henna ii).

According to the present invention, "henna" means a henna plant powder and / or a henna plant coloring extract, preferably a henna plant such as Lawsonia alba or Lawsonia inermis. The powder and / or the henna plant dye extract especially comprises lawsone and / or one of its glucosyl precursors.

Preferably, the henna used according to the present invention is in powder form.

It is understood that "henna powder" (and "indigestible plant powder" is different from an extract). Indeed an extract is a maceration product in generally organic solvents, while the powder according to the invention is a natural product from henna plants or indigesters, reduced by grinding or other mechanical means, into fine particles.

Preferably the henna used in the invention is red henna (Lawsonia inermis _T alba). The lawsone [83-72-7] (Cl Natural Orange 6; Cl 75420) also known as isojuglone, can be found in Henna shrubs (Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia inermis). Preferably the henna is in powder form. The henna powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US). According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the particle size of the henna powder is fine. According to the invention, more particularly is meant a particle size of less than or equal to 500 μm. Preferably, the powder consists of fine particles of size included between 10 and 300 μm and more particularly between 50 and 250 μm. It is understood that said henna particles preferentially have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powders.

Preferably, said henna particles come from henna leaves.

As indicated above, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition A is in the form of a solid, preferably pulverulent, preferably anhydrous composition. According to this embodiment, the henna is preferably present in the composition A in a content ranging from 5 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A, more particularly ranging from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably varying from 15 to 40% by weight, in particular with respect to the weight of the anhydrous composition A,

As indicated above, according to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition A is obtained by mixing just before use (that is to say extemporaneously) the indigestible plant powder (s) i) and henna ii) with water or with an aqueous composition to obtain a ready-to-use dye composition A, preferably in the form of a poultice.

According to this embodiment, the henna is present in composition A preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A, when said composition A is aqueous, more particularly varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 10% by weight.

Preferably, the indigestible plant powder i) and the henna ii) are present in the composition A in a weight ratio i) / ii) ranging from 0.1 to 95, preferably from 0.5 to 50, better still 1 to 10.

iii) the alkaline agents chosen from the alkanolamines of composition B

For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" or "alkalizing agent" are used interchangeably.

The composition B used in the process according to the invention as a post-treatment comprises one or more alkaline agents iii) chosen from alkanolamines.

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

In particular, the alkanolamine (s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, Ν, Ν-dimethylethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-1. propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane, and their mixtures.

In a particularly preferred manner, the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition B also comprises water.

Advantageously, the composition B comprising iii) one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from alkanolamine (s) is an aqueous composition whose pH is greater than or equal to 7.5 and preferably lower than or equal to 12; in particular at a pH of 8.0 to 11.5.

Preferably, the alkaline agent (s) chosen from the alkanolamine (s) is (are) in the aqueous composition B in a content preferably ranging from 0.001 / o to

10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (s) containing the alkaline agent (s) and even more preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight.

Preferably, the alkaline agent (s) iii) chosen from alkanolamine (s) is (are) in the aqueous composition B, in a concentration of between 0.1 M and 1 M inclusive, such as 0.5 M.

The composition B according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional alkaline agent (s), preferably chosen from carbonates, bicarbonates and amino acids (preferably chosen from arginine, glycinate, and the like). serine and / or proline) and / or mixtures thereof.

Organic solvents:

Compositions A and / or B as defined above may comprise one or more organic solvent (s). As the organic solvent, lower C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol are preferred; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol.

The organic solvents are present in proportions preferably of between 0.1 and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition in question, and still more preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight approximately.

Oils

The compositions A and / or B as defined above may comprise one or more oils, which are identical or different.

By "oil" is meant a "fat" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg); the viscosity at 25 ° C is preferably less than 1200 cps better less than 500 cps (defined for example from the Newtonian plateau determined using a TA Instruments ARG2 rheometer equipped with a mobile geometry cone plane d a diameter of 60 mm and an angle of 2 degrees over a range of shear stress ranging from 0.1 Pa to 100 Pa)

By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% and preferably of 1%, even more preferentially at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

More particularly, the oils are chosen from non-silicone oils and in particular hydrocarbons and C ₆ -C ₁₆ or more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; oils of animal origin; triglyceride oils of vegetable origin; essential oils ; glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols; esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides, fatty acid amides and silicone oils.

Preferably, the oils are not oxyalkylenated or glycerolated ethers.

Preferably, the oils do not comprise an oxyalkylenated C2-C3 unit or a glycerolated unit.

Preferably, the oils are not fatty acids which in salified form give water-soluble soaps.

The oils that can be used as the second ingredient b) in the composition A or B according to the invention can be silicones.

The silicones may be volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched, unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5.10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10 ^'5-1 m ² / s.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in the work of Walter Noll Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly between:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula:

r- D - D '------- D - D' -i ch ₃ '---------------------------- -1 CH ₃

I I with D: ~ Si-Ο- with D ': "If O

CH ₃ C ₈ H ₁₇

Cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures can also be mentioned with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa) -2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 50 mMs at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name SH 200 by TORAY SILICONE company. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:

the SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil;

the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA;

the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² / s;

- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

Compositions A and / or B as defined above may comprise one or more oils, chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid amides and fatty acid esters in the form of oils.

It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or non-conjugated.

More specifically, the latter may represent a C ₁ -C ₁₀ alcohol and C ₆ -C ₃ fatty acid ester such that RC (O) -O-R 'with R representing a C ₆ -C ₃ alkyl group. , linear or branched, linear or branched C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkenyl, comprising one or two unsaturations, and R representing a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl group.

Preferentially, R represents a linear C10-C20 alkyl group and R 'represents a preferably branched C1-C6 alkyl group, such as isopropyl myristate.

According to another advantageous variant, ingredient ii) represents one or more C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid amides and C ₁ -C ₁₀ primary or secondary amine, preferably primary amine, such as those of formula R "-C (O) -N (R _a ) -R""withR" represents a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₃ 0 alkyl group, linear or branched C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkenyl, comprising or two unsaturations, which may be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, or (di) (CiCe) (alkyl) amino, and R '"represents a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl group, R _a representing an atom of hydrogen or an alkyl group as defined for R '". Preferably R "is an alkenyl group C14-C20, Ra represents a hydrogen atom and R"'20 is alkyl in Ci-C _{6 alkyl} optionally substituted with (di) (Ci-C ₄₎ (alkyl) amino such as oleylamidopropyl dimethyl amine.

As regards the C 6 -C 16 alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, and possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane, squalene and their derivatives. mixtures,

Among the hydrocarbons, mention may be made of the refined plant perhydrosqualene sold under the name Fitoderm by Cognis; vegetable squalane 30 sold, for example, under the name Squalive by the company Biosynthis;

The following compounds may also be mentioned:

a mixture of branched C15-C16 alkanes, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOGREEN L15;

a mixture of linear and / or branched C 13 -C 15 alkanes, for example that sold by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOSMART L15.

Among the animal oils there may be mentioned perhydrosqualene.

Among triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, mention may be made of liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.

Among the fluorinated oils, mention may be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoromethyl

1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names FLUTEC® PC1 and FLUTEC® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or the bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

Among the essential oils contained in the composition of the invention, or may include those mentioned in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Flavors and Fragrances", Karl-Georg Fahlbusch et al., Published Online: JAN 15, 2003, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a11_141).

Preferably, the oil or oils of the invention are non-silicone. The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

According to a variant of the invention, the oil or oils are chosen from C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkanes, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, liquid fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the oils are chosen from oils of natural origin, more particularly from oils of vegetable origin preferentially chosen from the oils of jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, corn, argan, soy, squash, grape seed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, almond, castor oil, avocado, shea butter oil as well as rapeseed oil, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed and coconut oil; and their mixtures

More particularly, the compositions A and / or B may contain one or more oils of vegetable origin, preferably chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil and coconut oil. argan oil and sunflower oil; more preferably, the oil or oils of the invention are chosen from coconut oils.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions A and / or B can contain one or more oils chosen from C 6 -C 6 hydrocarbons and more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; preferably from:

the hydrocarbons at Ο ₆ -Ο ₁₆ , the latter being linear, branched, optionally cyclic, preferably chosen from hexane, dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof;

linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, hemisqualane, squalane, squalene and their mixtures

- and their mixtures.

The compositions A and / or B used in the process of the invention preferably comprise one or more oils in an amount of between 1 and 80% by weight, more particularly between 2 and 50% by weight, and preferably between 3 and 40% by weight. by weight, and more preferably between 25 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said compositions.

The additives :

Compositions A and / or B used in the process of the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, mineral thickeners or organic, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example ceramides, film-forming agents, preservatives, opacifying agents and inorganic or organic thickeners such as clays.

The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition considered.

Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition or the poultice useful in the coloring process according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged.

Additional dyes:

The compositions A and / or B used in the dyeing process of the invention may also contain one or more additional direct dyes, in particular synthetic or of natural origin, different from the indigestible plant powder (s). (s) i) and henna ii). The synthetic direct dyes are preferably chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which may be mentioned all the aromatic and / or nonaromatic dyes of current use such as neutral, benzene neutral, acidic or cationic direct dyes, dyes Neutral, acid or cationic azo dyes, natural direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinone dyes, azine, triarylmethane, indoamine, methine, styryl, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, phthalocyanine direct dyes, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes.

Preferentially, the natural direct dyes different from indigo i) and henna ii) are chosen from condensed tannins, gallic or ellagic, naphthoquinones (juglone), anthraquinones (emodin, alizarin, carmininic acid, laccaic acid, kermesic acid). , ...), isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, flavonoids-type polyphenols, isoflavonoids, pterocarpanes, neoflavones, orceins.

Preferably, the additional dye (s), different from indigo (i) and henna (ii) are chosen from dyes of natural origin, preferably chosen from catechin. , quercetin, haematein, hematoxylin, brasiline, brasiline, anthraquinones (emodin, alizarin, carmininic acid, laccaic acid, kermesic, ...), isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, polyphenols flavonoids, isoflavonoids, pterocarpans, neoflavones, orceins, gallic acid, tannic acid and natural extracts containing them selected from grape pomace, pine bark, green tea, onion, bean cocoa, logwood, red wood, and gall-nut, and their mixtures.

These natural dyes can be added as defined compounds, extracts, or parts of plants. Said defined compounds of extracts, or part of plants, are preferably in the form of powders, in particular fine, the particles of which have identical sizes to that of the indigestible plant powder (s) as defined above. .

When they are present, the direct, natural or synthetic dye (s) different from the indigenous plant powder (s) and henna ii) used in the process of the invention, particularly represents from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the ready-to-use composition and even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition considered.

Preferably the compositions of the invention do not contain synthetic direct dyes, i.e. which have no natural occurrence.

The composition A used in the process of the invention may also comprise one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers. Among the oxidation bases, mention may be made of para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bispara-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among these couplers, it is possible to mention include meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.

When they are present, the oxidation base (s) present in the composition (s) are in general present each in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the substance (s). coloring compositions.

Preferably, the dyeing method of the invention does not use oxidation dye.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention the pH of the composition A ready to use after mixing with the aqueous composition, preferably with water, containing the ingredients

i) and ii), varies from 2 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 6.5.

The pH of the ready-to-use composition A can be adjusted to the desired value by means of agent (s) acid (s) or alkaline (s) usually used (s) in dyeing keratin fibers or else at the same time. using conventional buffer systems,

Among the acidic agents used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid and tartaric acid. citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids, preferably the acid is an organic acid such as citric acid.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process uses hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s).

Tensioactiffs)

According to a particular embodiment, the dyeing process uses one or more surfactants.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the dyeing method of the invention uses one or more surfactant (s) mixed with the ingredients i) and ii), preferably in the composition A as defined above, particularly in the form of poultice.

According to another advantageous embodiment, the dyeing method of the invention uses one or more surfactant (s) in composition B, mixed with the alkaline agent (s) chosen from among the alkanolamines.

Preferably, the surfactant (s) are in composition B as defined above.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the surfactant (s) are in composition A, and / or B as defined above in an amount of between 0.001 and 20%, particularly between 0.01 and 10%, and more particularly between 0.01 and 1% such as 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or B.

Coloring process according to the invention

The dyeing method according to the invention implements two separate compositions A and B implemented in two separate steps a) and a), via their application to keratin fibers.

According to a preferred embodiment of the process according to the invention, the composition A is applied first to the keratinous fibers; and composition B is applied to the keratinous fibers after application of composition A; the method preferably implementing at least one rinsing step, and / or a washing step between the dyeing step implementing composition A and the treatment step implementing the application of composition B.

Preferably, the dyeing method according to the invention implements the following steps:

the first step consists in the preparation of the composition A as defined above, in particular in the form of a poultice as defined above comprising water, from powder and / or extract of indigestible plant (s) and / or a dye extract of indigestible plant (s) i) and henna ii),;

- Then the ready-to-use composition A as defined above is applied to the keratinous fibers and is left on said fibers preferably a minimum time of 30 minutes, preferably a time ranging from 15 minutes to 12 hours, preferably 15 minutes at 75 minutes even better from 15 to 60 minutes.

and then, on said fibers, composition B comprising one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from alkanolamine (s), as defined above, and composition B is left behind. on said fibers preferably between 1 and 30 minutes, preferably between 5 to 20 minutes, preferably between 5 to 15 minutes.

Preferably, between the step of applying composition A ready to use and the step of applying composition B, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water until the poultice disappears, and / or washed, in the presence of a shampoo, preferably according to this third step, the fibers are rinsed with water without shampooing - at the end of this rinsing and / or washing step, if this is done keratinous fibers can then be either dried or left wet, preferably left wet.

Preferably, after the application of composition B, the keratinous fibers are washed and / or rinsed.

According to another embodiment of the process according to the invention, the composition B as defined above is applied first to the keratinous fibers, then the ready-to-use composition A as defined above is applied to the keratinous fibers and is left to be laid on said fibers preferably as defined above. According to this embodiment, the fibers are preferably also rinsed as described above.

Preferably, at the end of the dyeing process according to the invention, the keratinous fibers are washed and / or rinsed.

The ready-to-use composition A preferably comprises water and is in the form of a poultice, it may also comprise one or more oils, and / or one or more organic solvents and cosmetic additives, mixed with the plant powder. (s) indigestible (s) i) and or henna ii).

According to another embodiment of the invention, the henna and the powder and / or indigo plant extract (s) i) are mixed or crumbled with or in an aqueous composition and preferably water at a temperature of temperature of less than or equal to 100 ° C, in particular between 25 ° C and 70 ° C, better still between 25 ° C and 50 ° C

Preferably, the application temperature of composition A varies from room temperature (15 to 25 ° C) to 100 ° C and more particularly from 25 to 50 ° C. Advantageously, after application of the poultice according to the invention, the hair is subjected to heat treatment by heating at a temperature ranging from 30 to 150 ° C, more preferably 30 ° C to 60 ° C. In practice, this operation can be carried out by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared dispenser and other conventional heating devices.

A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a dyeing process which is carried out at room temperature (25 ° C).

The evaluation of the coloration obtained of the keratinous fibers can be carried out visually or with a spectrocolorimeter in the CIE L * a * b * system, for example by means of a Minolta CM 3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10 °, specular component included).

In this system L * a * b *; L * represents the clarity of the color, a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. The lower the value of L *, the darker the color, powerful.

The lower the value of a * and the greener the color, the higher the value of a * plus the color is red.

The lower the value of b * and the more blue the color, the higher the value of b * plus the color is yellow.

The rise of the color corresponds to the variation of coloration between the locks of hair, before and after treatment or coloration are defined by (ΔΕ *) according to the following equation:

Δ E * = * -4 *) ² + (a * -a0 *) ² + (b * -b0 *) ²

In this equation, L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on locks of hair after staining and L _o *. a ₀ * and bo * represent the values measured on unstained locks of hair. The higher the value of ΔΕ *, the better the rise of the color. The stability (AE * stab) of the coloration of the keratin fibers is also evaluated over time, in particular after 3 weeks by measuring the colon coordinates of the keratinous fibers and comparing them with the colon coordinates immediately after implementation of the staining process according to the invention. 'invention. The color difference ΔΕ * between the color at T0 and the color after 3 weeks represents the stability of the hair color and is calculated by the following equation: _________________________________________________

Δ E " _t * = V (Z _3t * -I /) ² + (a _3s * -a" ·) ² + (b "* -b" *) ²

In this equation, L _o *, a ₀ * and b ₀ * represent the colorimetric coordinates measured on strands of hair at TO immediately after the implementation of the method and Las, a _3s * and b * 3s represent the colorimetric coordinates 3 weeks after the implementation of the process. The lower the value of AE * stab, the more staining is stable.

In the context of the present invention, it is therefore sought to obtain immediately after the dyeing process a value of b * as low as possible and / or a value of a * as high as possible. We seek to obtain these results while having an effective color rise (high color rise value) and staining most stable over time.

EXAMPLES OF COLORING

The following compositions have been prepared:

The percentages are given by weight relative to 100 g of composition.

1. Coloring step

The following coloring composition is prepared by mixing the natural dyestuff powder with water at 50 ° C. at the time of use in order to produce the following poultice.

Composition A i) Indigo leaf powder (Indigofera tinctoria) (marketed by Nomade Palize under the reference Black Henna of Persia - Henno) 18 iil LAWSONIA INERMIS SHEET POWDER (marketed by 7

Intermarket Trading Exporter under the reference Henne) __

Water __________________________________________________________________ ⁷ -§ _____

The ingredients described in (i) and (ii) are solubilized or dispersed in the relative amounts described in the table above in water at 50 ° C in a bowl. The whole is homogenized with a spoon or spatula.

The poultice obtained is applied to locks of natural hair 90% of white hair (BN) at a rate of 10 grams of composition for 1g of hair.-The locks are left to lay 60min at 33 ° C in cellophane.

After the break time, the locks are rinsed and washed with Ultra Gentle Chamomile Shampoo and dried.

2. Neutralizing post-treatment step

The following compositions B1 and B2 are prepared post-treatment so as to be at the same pH.

Comparative composition B1 Invention composition B2 NaOH / glycine buffer 0.025 mole - Mono-ethanolamine ____________________ 0.025 mole HCl Qsp pH11 Qsp pH11 WATER Qsp 100g Qsp 100g

The compositions B1 and B2 are each applied to one of the locks previously prepared at a rate of 4 g of composition per gram of hair and left to rest for 20 min at 40 ° C. under cellophane.

After the break time, the locks are rinsed and washed with Ultra Gentle Chamomile Shampoo and dried.

The color of the locks is then evaluated by colorimetry in the CIE system L a b.

Colorimetric results (dyed wicks)

The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b system, using a Minolta CM 3600 spectrocolorimeter (D65 illuminant, 10 ° angle, specular component included).

In this system L * a * b *, L * represents the intensity of the color, a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis.

The rise of the color corresponds to the variation of coloration between the locks of hair, before and immediately after implementation of the process are defined by (ΔΕ *) according to the following equation: _____________________________________________

ΔΕ * = J (L * -L _o *) ² + (a * -a0 *) ² + (b * -b0 *) ²

In this equation, L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on locks of hair after staining and L _o *, a ₀ * and b ₀ * represent the values measured on unstained locks of hair. The higher the value of ΔΕ *, the better the rise of the color. Colorimetric measurements were carried out immediately after the implementation of the process (T0), then after 3 weeks (T 3s).

The delta color difference E between the color at T0 and the color after 3 weeks represents the stability of the hair color and is calculated by the following equation:

ΔΕ "= yl (L" · -L, *) ¹ + (a "'- a0 *) ² + (b3 / -b ₀ *) ²

In this equation, L _o *, a ₀ * and b ₀ * represent the colorimetric coordinates measured on strands of hair at T0 immediately after the implementation of the method and L _3s *, a _3s * and b * _3s represent the coordinates colorimetric 3 weeks after the implementation of the process.

Delta a (Da *) represents the variation between aO and a3s; delta b (Db *) represents the variation between bO and b3s.

Color to T0 Color T = 3sema ines Evolution of Color in da * Evolution of Color in Db * Evolution of Color in DW Dyed hair without post treatment green gold Brown golden -1.33 2.26 4.5 Dyed hair with post comparative treatment B1 green gold Brown Green 1.4 1.85 4.2

Dyed hair golden brown Brown 0.4 -0.81 2.2 with post golden treatment B2 invention

It has been observed that on the day of application, the hair treated with the composition of the invention B2 is less yellow / green and more aesthetic with the post-treatment of the invention than the hair not treated with an alkaline post-treatment or else with comparative alkaline treatment B1.

After 3 weeks, we note that the locks treated according to the process of the invention (composition B2), have retained the initial color (T0). This is confirmed colorimetrically by less variation of colorimetric values of color difference (DE *). or of green / blue (Db *) or red / yellow (Da *) reflection between the process of the invention and the comparative methods without post-treatment or post-treatment of the comparative composition B1.

Thus, the method of the invention makes it possible to obtain an esthetic coloration as of the day of the application and to stabilize the coloration containing henna and indigo as of the day of the application of the coloring. Without post-treatment, an esthetic coloration is obtained only several days after the application. With an alkaline post-treatment different from that of the invention, no aesthetic coloration is obtained at T0 or after 3 weeks.

The method of the invention thus makes it possible to accelerate the revelation of the coloration from henna and indigo in order to obtain the final coloring result as of the day of application and to avoid unsightly intermediate glints.

Claims (20)

1. A process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated in several steps, comprising: at least one staining step a) of said fibers employing a coloring cosmetic composition A comprising i) indigestible plant powder (s) and / or an indigo plant (s) dye extract, and ii) henna; at least one treatment step b) said fibers implementing a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more agent (s) alkaline agent (s) iii) chosen from alkanolamines; it being understood that composition A is preferably applied first to the keratinous fibers; and composition B is applied to the keratinous fibers after application of composition A; it being understood that the method preferably implementing at least one rinsing step, and / or a washing step between the dyeing step implementing composition A and the treatment step implementing the application of the composition B, preferably a rinsing step. 2. Method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the indigestible plant (s) is (are) chosen from among the species of the genera: - Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffruticosa, Indigofera articulata Indigofera arrecta, Indigofera gerardiana, Indigofera argenta, Indigofera indica, or Indigofera longiracemosa; - Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria; - Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctohum or Persicaria tinctoria; Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria; - Calanthus such as Calanthe veratrifolia; and - Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia. 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the indigestible plant (s) is (are) of the genus Indigofera and more particularly is Indigofera tinctoria. 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition A comprises a content of powder and / or extract of indigestible plant (s) varying from 10 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A, more particularly ranging from 20 to 90% by weight, preferably ranging from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition A, when said composition A is anhydrous. 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the henna c) is red henna. 6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition A used in the dyeing process comprises a henna content ranging from 5 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A, more particularly varying from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition A, when the composition A is anhydrous. 7. Coloring process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that composition A comprises water, preferably a content ranging preferably from 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 95% by weight. more preferably from 40 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. 8. Method according to the preceding claimwherein the composition A comprises a content of powder and / or extract of indeterminate plant (s) ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A, more particularly varying from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 5 to 30% by weight, when the composition A is aqueous. 9. Method according to any one of claims 7 and 8 characterized in that the composition A used in the dyeing process comprises a henna content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A, when the composition A is aqueous, more particularly ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 10% by weight. 10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ingredients i) and ii) are present in the composition A in a weight ratio i) / ii) ranging from 0.1 to 95, preferably 0.5 at 50, better from 1 to 10. 11. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and 5 to 10, wherein the composition A has a pH ranging from 2 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 6.5. 12. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring cation A comprises at least one or more additional dye (s), different from the indigo i) and henna ii), chosen ( s) among synthetic direct dyes and dyes of natural origin, preferably chosen from dyes of natural origin, preferably chosen from catechin, quercetin, haematein, hematoxylin, brasiline, brasiline, anthraquinones (such as emodin, alizarin, carmininic acid, laccaic acid, kermesic), isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, flavonoids-type polyphenols, isoflavonoids, pterocarpanes, neoflavones, orceins, gallic acid, tannic acid and natural extracts containing them selected from grape pomace, pine bark, green tea, onion, cocoa bean, logwood, red wood and walnut. Gallen e, and mixtures thereof. 13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkanolamine (s) (s) iii) is (are) chosen from mono-, di- and triethanolamines, preferably from mono-, di- and trialkanolamines, and mixtures thereof. 14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkanolamine (s) iii) is (are) chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N, N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane, or mixtures thereof. 15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the alkanolamine (s) iii) is monoethanolamine. 16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkanolamine (s) iii) is present in composition B in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the weight of composition B, more particularly of 0.005%. at 8% by weight, relative to the weight of composition B. 17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition B comprises water and in that the pH of composition B is greater than or equal to 7.5 and preferably less than or equal to 12, 0, especially at a pH of 8.0 to 11.5; 18. A dyeing method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition A is applied first to the keratinous fibers; and the composition B is applied to the keratinous fibers after application of the composition A. 19. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it implements at least one rinsing step, and / or a washing step between the dyeing step using the composition A and the treatment step using the composition B, preferably a rinsing step. 5 20. Use of a composition B comprising one or more alkaline agent (s) chosen from alkanolamine (s), as defined in any one of the preceding claims for stabilizing the color of the colored fibers from henna and powder and / or indigestible plant extract in time (the day of application) and improve the intensity, the rise of color and / or the holding of color.