FR3004942A1 - CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING HENNE THEN INDIGO AND OIL AND / OR BUTTER - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair, in several successive stages, firstly implementing i) a composition B comprising at least 10% by weight of henna powder and then ii) rinsing until removal of the composition B, and iii) a composition B 'comprising at least 10% by weight of indigestible plant powder (s) being understood that at least one of the two compositions B or B 'further comprises at least one oil and / or at least one butter, preferably of plant origin. This process has the advantage of coloring the keratin fibers, with very satisfactory coloring results.

Description

The invention relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair, in several successive stages, putting into question the hair coloring process. firstly i) a composition B comprising at least 10% by weight of henna powder, then ii) rinsing until the composition B is eliminated, and then iii) a composition B 'comprising at least 10% by weight of indigenous plant powder (s) it being understood that at least one of the two compositions B or B 'further comprises at least one oil and / or at least one butter, preferably of vegetable origin. Two major modes of staining human keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, are known. The first, called oxidation or permanent staining, consists in using one or more oxidation dye precursors, more particularly one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers. Usually, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, make it possible to access, by a process of oxidative condensation, colored species which remain trapped inside the fiber. Very often, the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained. The second mode of staining, called direct or semi-permanent staining, comprises the application of direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers. Given the nature of the molecules used, these remain rather on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little inside the fiber, compared to the small molecules of precursors of oxidation dyes. The main advantages of this type of coloration is not to require an oxidizing agent which limits the degradation of the fibers and not to use dyes having a certain reactivity, thus limiting the risks of intolerance. The first hair dyes were semi-permanent. One of the best-known natural dyes is that derived from the henna plant. Henna continues to be used to beautify women by coloring hair, nails, or to color leather, silk and wool, etc. It is also used traditionally for important events, celebrations and various beliefs.

The red henna is made up of shrub leaves of the genus Lawsonia from the family Lythraceae which is based on the principle of staining with the active Lawsone: 2-hydroxy1,4-naphthoquinone. The lawsone [83-72-7] (Cl Natural Orange 6; Cl 75420), also known as isojuglone, may be found in Henna shrubs (Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia inermis) ("Dyes, Natural", Kirk- Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, "Henna" Encyclopedia Brittanica). This dye provides a red-orange color with white hair, and a "warm" color that is to say, coppered red with brown hair. The coloring process from henna is complicated to implement. It is first made a kind of "dough", often called "poultice", from mash or powder of henna leaves that is then diluted at the time of use with hot water and said paste is then applied to the keratinous fibers. However, this process from said paste has drawbacks. During the preparation and application of the composition on the keratin fibers, it is not possible to always obtain a satisfactory impregnation because of the poor consistency of the composition obtained from the coarsely ground powder. In addition, it is very difficult to hope to reproduce exactly the colors because the Lawsone content very often varies from one batch to another, and different shreds.

Another well-known natural dye is indigo (see Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "hair preparation", section 5.2.3, 2006 VViley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.KGA, VVeinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.a12 571.pub2). . Indigo continues to be used to beautify women by coloring hair, nails, or to color leather, silk and wool fabrics, etc. Indigo [482-89-3] is a natural dye, especially from the indigo plant of the empirical formula: C16H10N2O2; it has the following structure: --H The Indigo is derived from the indican can be prepared from different plants called indigofera such as indigo tinctoria, Indigo suffraticosa, Isatis tinctoria etc (see Kirk- Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, updated to 17/04/2009, D01: 10.1002 / 0471238961.0425051903150618.a01.pub2). Indigestible plants are usually cut and soaked in hot, heated, fermented and air-oxidized water to release the purple-blue indigo (see Rev. 2011, 111, 2537-2561). 2537-2561). Indigo is the result of fermentation and oxidation of indican (glycosylated precursor). Indigo as a molecule is insoluble in water. The problem is that staining from indigo leaf is difficult because the rise in color in the keratin fibers is very low. This dye gives a blue color to white hair, and a "cold" color of ash-gray to brown-haired type. The dyeing process from the indigo leaves is complicated to implement. It is first made a kind of "dough" (often called poultice) from crushed stone or indigo leaf powder (indigo indigo or indigo dyers) or pastel dyers (or wadi or Isatis tinctoria ) that it must be fermented, that is then diluted at the time of use with hot water and said paste is then applied to the keratinous fibers. However, this process from said paste has drawbacks. During the preparation and application of the composition on the keratin fibers, it is not possible to always obtain a satisfactory impregnation because of the poor consistency of the composition obtained from the coarsely ground powder. In addition, it is very difficult to hope to reproduce exactly the colors because the indigo content varies very often from one batch to another, and different crushed. As much as the color obtained on brown hair has a natural effect, as much the white hair is colored in an orange color with henna or blue with indigo, unsightly and unnatural ("Hair preparations", Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology , John VViley & Sons, Inc.). In addition, the colorations obtained are not homogeneous between the root and the tip or from one fiber to another (The Science of Hair Care, C. Bouillon, J. V Volkinson, Ed. 2d, CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group Boca Raton, London, pp. 236-241 (2005)).

Added to this is the risk of tachage clothing and skin with henna or indigo during the preparation of the "dough" and also during the application thereof on keratinous fibers, the consistency being very irregular. Henna stains from current indigo plant (s) are applied as a poultice for a long time on the hair and then rinsed and dried, usually in the open air, without shampoo terminal to allow the color to oxidize in the air during the following hours or even days. Depending on the composition used, the oxidation time is more or less long but never instantaneous. In addition to the break time that is long with henna or indigo that can vary from several tens of minutes to several hours (one night) depending on the desired intensity, without being able to control the result, the result also varies depending on fibers to be stained and the raw material of indigo or henna used. It is known to use metal salts as a mordant to improve the coloring of henna and indigo (Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2006 VViley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.KGA, VVeinheim 10.1002 / 14356007.a12 571.pub2 and US 2010 / 03,133,362). It is also known to use metal salts to improve the coloration of indigo (Vat Dyes - see Chem Rev. 2011, 111, 2537-2561, pp. 2537-2561). The use of these requires a great deal of know-how, multiplies the steps of the process, does not always respect the integrity of the fiber (cosmetic not respected) and can disrupt subsequent cosmetic treatments.

It is also known to use a heating iron combined with non-natural direct dyeing to color the hair (EP 1 631 241). Nevertheless, the colorations are not always satisfactory from the point of view of color, in particular in terms of selectivity from root to tip and remanence, and fiber cosmetics.

To remedy the problem of low dyeing efficiency of natural dyes, it is also known to "dope" the coloring by adding direct dyes generally used in direct dyeing such as nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine and azomethine direct dyes , Xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane (DE 199 05 707, EP 0 806 199, JP 2010- 0001278). This option has the disadvantage for users of natural products, or supporters of "natural / organic", that the color is partly made from synthetic dyes. Another solution is to couple two colors to obtain brown colors from natural dye. For example, it is known to carry out a two-step coloring, the first step of which is to color the hair with henna, then in a second step to color the hair with indigo. However, generally the colors obtained are not predictable, and can be very unsightly with a color that takes precedence over the other, either too "orange" because of henna, or too "blue-purple" because of the indigo. The colors obtained are not always reproducible by the users. Moreover break times are problematic, and the cosmetics of the fiber is not always respected. Finally, the coloration obtained is not always homogeneous from one fiber to another or from root to tip, with a very marked root effect. There is therefore a real need to develop dyeing processes from natural dyes that make it possible to obtain powerful colorations from henna and indigo-producing plant (s), of natural color without drawing on blue or white. orange, even on keratin fibers very light or even white, while respecting the cosmetics of keratin fibers. In particular, there is a need to provide methods of staining keratinous fibers from natural dyes, easy to use, and fast which in particular allow to obtain less aggressive colorings for the hair and at the same time which resistant to external agents (light, bad weather, shampoo), which are stubborn and homogeneous while remaining powerful and chromatic. This purpose (s) is (are) achieved by the present invention which relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, implementing the following steps: i) initially treating the keratin fibers with an aqueous composition B comprising: a) at least 10% by weight, based on the weight of said composition, of red henna powder; and b) optionally at least one oil, preferably of plant origin and / or at least one butter, preferably of plant origin; then - ii) in a second step the elimination of the composition of the keratinous fibers, preferably by rinsing; iii) optionally the application of a heat treatment to keratinous fibers at a temperature greater than 60 ° C., preferably ranging from 60 ° C. to 220 ° C., preferably with a hair dryer or a heating iron (iv) then the treatment of keratinous fibers with an aqueous composition B 'comprising: a') at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition, of indigestible plant powder (s) and b ') optionally at least one oil, preferably of plant origin and / or at least one butter, preferably of plant origin; then repeat steps ii) and iii); it being understood that at least one of the two compositions B or B 'comprises at least one oil and / or a butter b) or b'). The compositions B and B 'used are particularly derived from the mixture of a composition respectively A and A' respectively compact and / or anhydrous with an aqueous composition C and C 'and more preferably water.

The method for dyeing keratinous fibers according to the invention has the advantage of coloring keratinous fibers, especially human fibers, with results of powerful, chromatic, wash-resistant, perspiration, sebum and light colorings, which are otherwise durable without alteration of said fibers. In addition, the colorations obtained from the composition or the poultice give homogeneous colors from the root to the tip of a fiber (low color selectivity). The treated keratinous fibers have a very pleasant cosmetic, and their integrity is respected.

Furthermore, the time devoted to the coloration from natural product according to a variant of the process of the invention is faster and easier than the preceded two known steps, and this just by subjecting keratin fibers treated with henna and then indigestible plant (s), associated with the presence of an oil or butter and a heat source such as a heating iron, without the need to keep one or more compositions such as poultices on the head for a long time ( for several hours or overnight) or to leave the poultices composition (s), for example, before application for a long time (several hours or several days) between each stage of application of red henna and indigo. This variant of the dyeing process according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain aesthetic colorings rapidly without waiting for a long time for the oxidation of the dye precursors in the open air. a) Powder of red henna and a ') indigo-producing plant powder (s) Composition B used in the process for staining keratinous fibers comprises at least 10% by weight of henna in powder form, preferably in fines particles, relative to the total weight of said composition. The henna used in the invention is red henna (Lawsonia inermis, alba). The henna powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US). According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the particle size of the henna powder is fine. According to the invention, is more particularly meant a particle size of less than or equal to 500 lm. Preferably, the powder consists of fine particles of size inclusively between 50 and 300 μm and more particularly between 10 and 200 μm.

It is understood that said henna particles preferentially have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powders. Preferably, said henna particles come from henna leaves. The composition B according to the invention comprises henna powder in an amount of especially between 10% and 90% by weight, more particularly between 15 and 70%, and even between 20% and 60% by weight, more particularly between 25 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition A, which is preferably anhydrous and compact, comprises henna powder in an amount of especially between 15% and 100% by weight, more particularly between 20 and 80%, and even between 25% and 70% by weight. more particularly between 25 and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Composition B 'used in the process for staining keratinous fibers comprises at least 10% by weight of the indigestible plant powder (s), preferably in fine particles, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indigo plant we can cite many species of the genera: - Indigo will make such as Indigo will make tinctoria, Indigo suffraticosa, Indigo will articulata Indigo will make arrecta, Indigo will make gerardiana, Indigo will make argenta, Indigo will make indica, Indigo will make longiracemosa; - Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria; - Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium (Persicaria tinctoria); Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria; - Calanthus such as Calanthe veratrifolia; and - Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia.

Preferably the indigo plant is of the kind Indigo will do and more particularly is Indigo will make tinctoria. One can use all or part (especially the leaves especially for Indigo will make tinctoria) of the indigo plant. The indigestible plant powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US). According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the particle size of the indigestible plant powder is fine. According to the invention, is more particularly meant a particle size of less than or equal to 500 lm. Preferably, the powder consists of fine particles having a size of between 50 and 300 μm and more particularly between 10 and 200. It is understood that said particles of indigestible plant (s) preferably have a moisture content of between 0 and 10 μm. % by weight, based on the total weight of the powders.

The composition B 'according to the invention comprises indigestible plant powder (s) in an amount of especially between 10% and 90% by weight, more particularly between 15% and 70%, and even between 20% and 60% by weight. weight, more particularly between 25 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition A ', preferably compact and anhydrous, comprises indigestible plant powder (s) in an amount particularly inclusive of between 15% and 100% by weight, more particularly between 20% and 80%, and even between 25% and 100% by weight. 70% by weight, more particularly between 25 and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. b) Optionally oils and / or butters According to a particular embodiment of the invention, at least one of the compositions used in the process of the invention B or B 'comprises one or more oils, which are identical or different. By "oil" is meant a "fat" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg); the viscosity at 25 ° C is preferably less than 1200 cps better less than 500 cps (defined for example from the Newtonian plateau determined using a TA Instruments ARG2 rheometer equipped with a mobile geometry cone plane d a diameter of 60 mm and an angle of 2 degrees over a range of shear stress ranging from 0.1 Pa to 100 Pa) By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature ( 25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1% more preferably 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom. More particularly, the oils are chosen from non-silicone oils and in particular hydrocarbons and C6-C16 or more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; oils of animal origin; triglyceride oils of vegetable origin; essential oils ; glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols; esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides, fatty acid amides and silicone oils. Preferably, the oils are not oxyalkylenated or glycerolated ethers.

Preferably, the oils do not comprise oxyalkylenated unit 02-03 or glycerolated unit. Preferably, the oils are not fatty acids which in salified form give water-soluble soaps. The oils which can be used as the second ingredient b) and b ') in the composition B and B' according to the invention can be silicones. The silicones may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or otherwise with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1 × 10 -5 to 1 m 2 / s. Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 sold by UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR3 ## Si-O Si-II CH 3 C 81-117 with D ': Cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures may also be mentioned with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone, silicones entering this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. The fatty alcohols, fatty acid amides and fatty acid esters which can be used as second ingredient b) or b ') in compositions B or B' according to the invention are in the form of oils.

It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. More specifically, ingredient ii) may represent a C 1 -C 10 alcohol and fatty acid ester of C 6 -C 30 such that RC (O) -O-R 'with R representing a C 6 -C 30 alkyl group, linear or branched chain, linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl, comprising one or two unsaturations, and R representing a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group. Preferentially, R represents a linear C10-C20 alkyl group and R 'represents a preferably branched C1-C6 alkyl group such as isopropyl myristate. According to another advantageous variant, ingredient ii) represents one or more 06-030 fatty acid amides and of 01-010 primary or secondary amine, preferably of primary amine, such as those of formula R "- C (O) -N (Ra) -R- with R "representing a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkyl group, linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl, comprising one or two unsaturations, which may be substituted by one or several hydroxy groups, or (di) (01-06) (alkyl) amino, and R "represents a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl group, Ra represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group as defined for R ". Preferably R "represents an alkenyl group at 014-020, Ra represents a hydrogen atom and R" represents a C1-C6 alkyl group optionally substituted with (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) amino such that oleyl amidopropyl dimethyl amine. As for the alkanes at 06-016, the latter are linear, branched, possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®. Among the animal oils there may be mentioned perhydrosqualene.

Among triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, mention may be made of liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil. Among the fluorinated oils that may be mentioned perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® P03" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or the bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M. Among the essential oils contained in the composition of the invention, or may include those mentioned in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Flavors and Fragrances", Karl-Georg Fahlbusch et al., Published Online: JAN 15, 2003, D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a11_141). According to a preferred embodiment, the ingredients b) and b ') are different from the essential oils.

Preferably, the oil or oils of the invention are non-silicone. The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

According to a preferred variant of the invention, the one or more oils are chosen from 06-016 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol, liquid fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the oils are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly and alkanes from 06-016, polydecenes.

In this variant preferably, the oil or oils are chosen from mineral oils such as petroleum jelly. According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the oils are chosen from oils of natural origin, more particularly oils of vegetable origin preferentially chosen from jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive and nut oils. coconut, brazil nuts, marula, maize, argan, soya, squash, grape seed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, almond, castor, avocado, shea butter oil as well as rapeseed oil, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed and coconut oil.

More particularly, the oils of vegetable origin are chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, coconut oil, argan oil and sunflower oil; preferably, the oil or oils, ingredient b) of the invention are chosen from coconut oils.

The composition B and / or B 'used in the process of the invention preferably comprises one or more oils in an amount of between 1 and 80% by weight, more particularly between 2 and 50% by weight, and preferably between 3 and 50% by weight. and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The composition A and / or A 'preferably comprises one or more oils in an amount that is particularly inclusive of between 1 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 5 and 60% by weight, preferably between between 10 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition B and / or B 'used in the process of the invention comprises a butter or several butters, identical or different. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fatty substance") is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 25 ° C. a liquid fraction and a fraction. solid, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 25 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. Preferably, the one or more butters have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C. Preferably, the one or more butters have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.

Preferably, the butters or pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in analysis. thermal (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments . As regards the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance preheated to 80 ° C. and taken from below Magnetic stirring using an equally heated spatula is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.

The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. The cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol, first being brought to a temperature of 20 ° C and then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C to 80 ° C. ° C, at the heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 80 ° C to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the butter sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted.

The liquid fraction by weight of the butter at 25 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The butter is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The butter is said to be in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of the butter is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the ISO 11357 standard. -3: 1999. The melting enthalpy of the butter is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state.

It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it has at 25 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50 to 100 (%), more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C is 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the butter, measured at 32 ° C., is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

Regarding the measurement of the hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: The composition according to the invention or the butter is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal past and control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a rate of heat of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes. The compression force measurement is performed with Swantech TA / TX2i texturometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2 mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical 12 mm diameter steel mobile for inferior raw materials; The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and enters the composition according to the invention or the butter at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally - a third step called withdrawal or the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and note the energy withdrawal of the probe (negative force). The value of the hardness measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm 2 in contact with the butter or the composition according to the invention. The value of hardness obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particular butter or butters are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 15/06/2000, D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2 Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters). Shea butter, Shea butter Nilotica (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, butter may be mentioned more particularly. of Illipé, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), butter Murumuru (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), Coffee butter (Coffea arabica) , apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea) , sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma c acao) and sunflower butter. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight content of the butter or butters according to the invention, in the form of triglyceride fatty acids, expressed relative to the total fatty acids of the triglycerides, is less than 23%. Preferably, the butter or butters according to the invention are chosen from Murumuru butter, Ucuuba butter, Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Shea butter, Cupuaçu butter and even more preferably from butter. Murumuru and Ucuuba butter. In a preferred variant of the invention, the weight content of fatty acids 016 of the triglycerides expressed relative to the total fatty acid triglycerides varies from 0 to 22%, better from 0 to 15%, more preferably from 2 to 12%.

The composition B and / or B 'used in the process of the invention preferably comprises one or more butters in an amount of especially between 1 and 80% by weight, more particularly between 2 and 50% by weight, and preferably between 3 and 50% by weight. and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition A and / or A 'preferably comprises one or more oils in an amount of especially from 1 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 5 and 60% by weight, preferably between 10 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition B and / or B 'used in the process according to the invention comprises a mixture of one or more oils, which are identical or different, as defined above, and of one or more butters, identical or different, as defined above. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition B and / or B 'used in the process of the invention comprises one or more oils and one or more butters, the amount of which is [oil (s) + butter (s). is included inclusively between 1 and 80% by weight, more particularly between 2 and 50% by weight, preferably between 3 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B or B '. According to another particular embodiment of the invention the composition A and / or A ', preferably compact and anhydrous, comprises one or more oils and one or more butters whose amount [oil (s) + butter (s)] is particularly inclusive between 1 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 5 and 60% by weight, preferably between 10 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing method uses a composition B and / or B 'and / or A and / or A' which further comprises one or more fatty substances c) or c ') respectively different from the one or more oils and different from the butters b) and b ') as defined above. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, composition B and / or B 'and / or A and / or A' comprises, as third component c) or c ') respectively, one or more waxes, preferably of origin vegetable. The waxes can be solid fatty alcohols or solid fatty esters at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, as third component, one or more solid fatty alcohols, preferably of plant origin. The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear saturated alcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol). As regards the fatty esters of fatty acids and / or solid fatty alcohols, mention may be made preferably of linear and saturated fatty acid esters and of linear and saturated fatty alcohols such as cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, cetyl stearate.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition B and / or B 'comprises, as third component c) or c'), one or more waxes, different from the fatty alcohols and fatty esters mentioned above, preferably from vegetable origin. These waxes (non-silicone) are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ; other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition B and / or B 'and / or A and / or A' comprises one or more waxes, resins or silicone gums.

In the class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the waxes sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-020) siloxanes. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.

More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a hydroxyl end-of-the-chain polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R25iO2 / 2, R35iO1 / 2, R5iO3 Wherein R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. Preferably, the fatty substance (s) do not comprise an oxyalkylenated unit (02-03) or a glycerolated unit. The composition B and / or B 'and / or A and / or A' used in the dyeing process according to the invention preferably comprises a fat content c) or c ') different from (s) oil (s) and butter (s) b) or b ') as defined above, ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, better still from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight relative to to the total weight of said composition. d) the surfactants According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition B and / or B 'and the composition A and / or A' comprise one or more surfactants d) or d ') respectively. These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants. The amphoteric surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said derivatives of amines containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may be mentioned the following compounds of structures (B1) and (B2): Ra-C (O) -N (Z) -CH2- (CH2) m -N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2-C (O) -O-, W, X (B1) Formula (B1) in which: - Ra represents a C10 alkyl or alkenyl group; 030 derived from an acid Ra-C (O) -OH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - R, represents a carboxymethyl group; W represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (01-04) sulphates, 04) - or alkyl (01-04) aryl sulphonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; m is equal to 0.1 or 2; Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group or else W and X- are absent; Ra-C (O) -N (Z) -CH2- (CH2) e-N (B) -B '(B2) Formula (B2) wherein: - B represents the group -CH2-CH2-O-X'; - B 'represents the group - (CH2), - Y', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH 2 -O (O) -OH, -CH 2 -O (O) -O-Z', -CH 2 -CH 2 -O (O) -OH, -CH 2 -CH 2 -O (0) ) -OZ ', or a hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -O (O) -OH, -O (O) -OZ', -OH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -OH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra 'represents an alkyl group in 0-10-030 or alkenyl in 010-030 of an acid Ra'-O (O) -OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, a group alkyl, especially at 017 and its iso form, an unsaturated group; M is equal to 0.1 or 2; Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group. Compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate de disodium, lauroamphodiacétate 25 disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid hydroxyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOLO 02M Concentrate or under the trade name MIRANOL ULTRA C 32 and the product marketed by CHIMEX under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA. use compounds of formula (B'2); Ra "-N (H) -OH (Y") - (OH 2) r, -O (O) -NH- (OH 2) n -N (Rd) -Re (B'2) Formula (B'2) in which: Y "represents the group -O (O) -OH, -O (O) -O-Z", -OH-CH (OH) -SO 3 H or the group -O H 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 -Z "; 40 - Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra "represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra" -C (O) -OH, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; n and n ', independently of one another, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (B'2), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB. Among the amphoteric surfactants, mention may also be made of betaine surfactants which are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) as well as their possible salts of organic or mineral acids or bases, their solvates such as hydrates: (I) Formula (I) in which: R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 6 to 100 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, and capable of being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, divalent groups, or combinations thereof chosen from -O-, -O (O) -, -N (R) where R denotes a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, and R 1 may also be interrupted by a arylene group or terminated by an aryl group; - R2 and R3, identical or different, in particular R2 and R3 are identical, denote a group (01-06) alkyl, preferably R2 and R3 represents a methyl group; - R4 denotes a divalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably linear, comprising from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms optionally substituted in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups; Z denotes a heteroatom or a divalent group chosen from -O-, -N (R) - with R as defined above, n denotes a number equal to 1 or 2; m denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1; - G- denotes an anionic radical chosen from carboxylates, sulphates, sulphonates, phosphates and phosphonates (* -C (O) -O-, * -S (O) 2-0-, * -O-S (O) 2 -0-, * -P (0) 2-0-, * -P (O) -O-, -P (01-1) -O-, ** = P (O) -O- and ** = P-0-, with "* -" designating the point of attachment of the anionic radical to the rest of the molecule via Z or R4 when n is 1, and R2 I + R3 G- "** =" representing the two dots attachment of the anionic radical via Z or R4 when n is 2); it being understood that: when n is 2, the radicals R 1 R 2 R 3 N + -R '- (Z), - are identical or different, preferably identical; and the surfactant of formula (I) being electrically neutral, it may comprise anionic and / or cationic counterions to arrive at the electroneutrality of the molecule. By "unsaturated" hydrocarbon chain is meant a hydrocarbon chain which comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds, said bonds possibly being conjugated or not; By "alkyl radical" is meant a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably C 1-8; By "alkenyl radical" is meant a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably 02-08; unsaturated compound comprising one or more double bonds, conjugated or otherwise "Alkoxy radical" is understood to mean an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in Cl-016, preferentially in Cl-08; By radical "aryl" is meant a mono- or polycyclic carbon group, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl; By radical "atylene" is meant an aromatic radical divalent mono- or polycyclic, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic, preferably phenylene, and more preferably 1.3 or 1,4-phenylene; By "optionally substituted" assigned to the radical in question is meant that said radical may be substituted with one or more radicals chosen from the radicals i) hydroxy, ii) alkoxy at Cl-04, iii) acylamino, iv) amino optionally substituted by a or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom carrying them, a 5- to 7-membered heterocyl, optionally comprising another heteroatom which may or may not be different from nitrogen; ; By "organic or mineral acid salt" is meant more particularly the salts selected from a salt derived i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) acids alkylsulfonic: Alk-S (O) 20H such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; y) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S (O) 20H such as benzene sulfonic acid and toluene sulfonic acid; (vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid, x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-O-S (O) OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid CH3C (O) OH; xiv) triflic acid CF3SO3H and xv) tetrafluoroboric acid HBFα; By "organic or inorganic base salt" is meant more particularly the salts selected from a salt derived from basifying agents as defined "Additional alkalizing agents:" hereinafter. By "anionic counterion" is meant an anion or an anionic group derived from organic or inorganic acid salt counterbalancing the cationic charge of the dye; more particularly the anionic counterion is selected from i) halides such as chloride, bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including C1-C6 alkylsulphonates: Alk-S (O) 20- such as methylsulphonate or mesylate and ethylsulphonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S (O) 20- such as benzenesulphonate and toluenesulphonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; (vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulphates: Alk-O-S (O) O- such as methysulphate and ethylsulphate; x) arylsulfates: Ar-O-S (O) O- such as benzenesulphate and toluenesulphate; xi) alkoxysulfates: Alk-O-S (O) 20- such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxysulfates: Ar-OS (O) 20-, xiii) the phosphates O = P (O-1) 2-O-, O = P (O) 2-OH, O = P (O-) 3, 1-104P (0) (0 -)], - P (0) (0-) 2 with w being an integer; (xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate, xvii) disulfate (O =) 2S (O-) 2 or SO42- and monosulfate 1-1SO4-; the anionic counterion, derived from organic or inorganic acid salt, ensures the electroneutrality of the molecule so it is understood that when the anion comprises several anionic charges then the same anion can be used for the electroneutrality of several cationic groups in the same molecule or else can be used for the electroneutrality of several molecules; for example a betainic surfactant which contains two positive charges may contain either two "monocharged" anionic ions or contains an anionic "bicharged" counterion such that (0 =) 2S (O) 2 or 0 = P (O-) 2 -01-1. In particular, the cationic counterion or ions are chosen from alkali metals such as Na, K, or alkaline earth metals such as Mg, Ca, or organic cations such as ammonium, mono / di / tri (C1-C6) alkylammonium, and / or the anionic counterion or ions are selected from halides such as chloride or alkylsulfonates such as mesylates. More preferably, the optional cationic counterion or ions are chosen from alkali metals such as Na, K, or alkaline earth metals such as Mg, Ca, and / or the anionic counterion or ions are chosen from halides such as chloride or alkylsulfonates such as mesylates. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the betainic surfactant or surfactants are chosen from the surfactants of formula (I) in which n is equal to 1 and G- denotes an anionic radical chosen from * -C (O) -O - and * -S (0) 2-0-, According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the betainic surfactant or surfactants are chosen from surfactants of formula (I) in which R4 denotes a linear divalent alkylene radical in Cl -05, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group such as -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2-, or -CH2-CH2-. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the betaine surfactant or surfactants are chosen from surfactants of formula (I) in which m is 1 and Z represents an oxygen atom or a group -N (R) - with R as defined above. More preferably, when m is 1, then Z represents an oxygen atom. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the betainic surfactant or surfactants are chosen from the surfactants of formula (I) in which m is 0. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the betainic surfactant (s) are chosen from surfactants of formula (I) in which R 1 denotes a group chosen from i) alkyl at 06-030; ii) alkenyl at 06-030, - (C6-C30) alkyl-amido- (C1-C4) alkyl or - (C6-C30) alkenyl-amido- (C1-C4) alkyl, with amido representing a group -C ( 0) -N (R) - and R being as defined above. In particular, R denotes a hydrogen atom.

More particularly, R 1 denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, preferably linear, at 06-030. Among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, C8-C20 alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20alkyl) amido (C2-C8alkyl) betaines, such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, are preferably used, and their mixtures.

More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbétaine. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -C (O) OH, -C (O) O-, -503H, -S (O) 20-, -OS (O) 20H, -OS (O) 20- , -P (O) OH2, -P (O) 20-, -P (O) O2-, -P (OH) 2, = P (O) OH, -P (OH) O, = P (O) 0-, = POH, = PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium. As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. , alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, monoester salts alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of Ⓒ monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from Ⓒ polyglycoside-citrates, Ⓒ alkyl polyglycosidestartrates and olefin polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates. alkyl at 06-024. When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, it is preferred to use (C 6 -C 24) alkyl sulphates, alkyl (C 6 -C 24) ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal or ammonium salts. , aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. In particular, it is preferred to use (C 12 -C 20) alkyl sulphates, C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, aminoalcohol , and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. More preferably, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, ingredient d) or d) represents one or more cationic surfactants.

The cationic surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Among the tertiary fatty amines mention may be made of oleamidopropyl dimethylamine. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example, of: - those corresponding to the following general formula (II): - + R8 / Rio XR ( In which: R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, being understood; at least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and - X-, represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulphates, 04) - or (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate.

The aliphatic groups of R8 to R11 may further comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups of R8 to R11 are for example selected from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C22alkyl) amidoalkyl (C2-C6) ), (C12-C22) alkyl, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X- is an anionic counterion selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkylsulphates, (C1-C4) alkyl- or (C1-C4) alkylsulphonates. Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or secondly distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, or, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of the following formula (III): ## STR2 # III) Formula (III) in which: R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow; R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group; Or an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R 14 is a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group; R 15 is a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group; organic or inorganic anionic ion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, O 4) or alkyl (C 1 -C 4) aryl sulphonates, R 12 and R 13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups having from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a Such a product is for example sold under the name REVVOQUATO VV 75 by the company REVVO; the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV) below: R 17 R 19 + + R 16 N (CH 2) 3 NR X - X 21 R 18 R 20 Formula (IV) in which: R 16 denotes an alkyl group comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R 17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a - (CH 2) 3 -N + (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 18a), X group; R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and - X-, which may be identical or different, represent an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or alkyl ( C1-C4) aryl sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75); the quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of the following formula (V): X (CsI-12s) R 25 O-CrHr 2 (OH) r, 17N ++ CtHt 2 (OH) t, O ± Embedded image in which: R 22 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups, R 23 is chosen from: R 2 C - R 7 hydrocarbon groups -022, linear or branched, saturated or (IV) O R24 (V) unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from: 0 - the group - R29 hydrocarbon groups C-06, linear or branched saturated or unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups 07-021; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers of from 2 to 6, r1 and t1 which are identical or different, equal to 0 or 1 with r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t - y is an integer from 1 to 10, - x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X- represents an anionic counterion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated 011-021 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or linear 011-021 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anionic counterion X- is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (C1-C4) alkyl sulphate; (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anionic counterion X- is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (V) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from: o - the group R2C - the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups at 014-022, - the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from - R24, O - the group R2 - - the hydrogen atom, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

Examples of compounds of formula (V) include, for example, diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulphate. methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUARTO by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUATO by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REVVOQUATO VVE 18 by the company REVVO-VVITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride. , dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof. By "nonionic surfactant" is meant a surfactant which does not carry anionic or cationic charge. Examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (C1-C20) phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups that can range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups that can range from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide and propylene, optionally oxyethylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine derivatives and N-acyl-methylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides. The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated. As examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated 08-030 alcohols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated amides 08-030; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, 08-030 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; 08-030 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol; vegetable oils oxyethylenated, saturated or not; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures. Oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones. Surfactants having a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50, preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated 08-030 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide; 08-030 esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide. By way of example of mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the mono-or poly-glycerolated 08-040 alcohols are preferably used. In particular, the mono- or poly-glycerolated mono- or poly-0-040 alcohols correspond to the following formula (VI): ## STR2 ## wherein: R 29 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, at 08-040, preferably at 08-030; and - m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of compounds of formula (A8) suitable within the scope of the invention, mention may be made of 4-lauryl alcohol. glycerol moles (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol to 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol to 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol to 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol to 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol to 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol of formula (VI) can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist in the form of a mixed. Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the alcohol in 0/010 to one mole of glycerol, the alcohol in 010/012 to 1 mole of glycerol and the alcohol in 0 to 1.5 mole of glycerol. Of the saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, 08-030 acid esters of polyoxyethylene sorbitol, those having a number of moles of ethylene oxide of less than or equal to 20 are particularly preferred. Particularly comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon and more particularly from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acids are in particular chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid and stearic acid, and preferably from lauric acid and stearic acid and even more particularly lauric acid.

08-024 fatty acid monoesters and oxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably used. The number of moles of ethylene oxide is preferably less than 10 and more particularly from 3 to 8 moles of ethylene oxide and in particular is equal to 4. The preferred sorbitan esters are mono-laurate. sorbitan oxyethylenated with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (40E) or polysorbate 21, sorbitan monostearate oxyethylenated with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (40E) or polysorbate 61, the oxyethylenated sorbitan mono-oleate at 5 moles of ethylene oxide (50E) or polysorbate 81. Polysorbate 21 is particularly preferred and is sold especially under the name TWEEN 21 by the company UNIQEMA. According to the invention, the composition may advantageously comprise mixtures of oxyethylenated sorbitan esters and in particular polysorbate 21 with polysorbate 20 (oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate at 20 OE). Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from cationic and anionic nonionic surfactants, particularly chosen from nonionic and anionic surfactants.

More particularly, the surfactant (s) present in the composition B and / or B 'are chosen from nonionic surfactants. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant or surfactants are mono- or polyoxyalkylenated, especially mono or polyoxyethylenated, mono or polyoxypropylenated, or a combination thereof, more particularly mono or polyoxyethylenated.

More preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. According to one variant of the invention, composition B and / or B 'and / or A and / or A' and / or C and / or C 'uses one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants, in particular surfactants. nonionic mono- or polyoxyalkylenated, more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, 08-030 acid esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitol as defined above; anionic surfactants, in particular of the alkyl sulphate type as defined above, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth lauryl ether sulphate.

Composition B and / or B 'preferably contains from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight of surfactant (s) relative to the total weight of said composition . The composition A and / or A 'of the invention preferably contains from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight of surfactant (s). relative to the total weight of said composition. The water.

The composition B and / or B 'of the invention as defined above comprises water. This water constitutes part or all of an aqueous phase. By "aqueous phase" is meant a phase which essentially comprises water, and further comprises other miscible or water-soluble ingredients, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Mention may be made, as liquid or solid, which may be in the aqueous phase: the organic solvents as defined hereinafter, polar or polar protic, the acid or base salts, mineral or organic, or the soluble cosmetic active ingredients in the aqueous phase; the water. Composition B and / or B 'of the invention preferably contains water in an amount ranging from 5 to 90%, better still from 20 to 80%, particularly from 40 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The compositions or compositions used in the process of the invention is cosmetic, i.e. it is cosmetically acceptable therefore suitable for use for application to keratinous fibers, including human fibers such as hair. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition B and / or B 'used in the process of the invention contains one or more "mordants" ie metal salts conventionally used in "etching" (see for example Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Textile Dyeing", Herbert Leube et al., D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a26_351, and in particular point 4.8.2, p.72, ibid, "Metalcomplex dyes", Klaus Gryschtol et al., D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a16_299) According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition B and / or B 'used in the process of the invention does not contain "mordants". According to the invention, the composition B and / or B 'used in the process of the invention may be derived from the mixture of a composition A and / or A'. mixed with water or an aqueous composition of p reference to form a poultice. Composition A and A ': The compositions A and A' may be compacted or in uncompacted powder, they may be anhydrous or non-anhydrous. Composition A and / or A 'may comprise water or a mixture of water and also one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.

The composition A and / or A 'of the invention preferably comprises less than 3% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 2% by weight, or even is free of water. Preferably, compositions A and A 'are anhydrous i.e. they do not include water other than water bound to raw materials entering into non-aqueous components thereof. The compositions A or A 'may be in the form of a powder. They can also be in the form of a paste. Composition A and / or A 'according to the invention is preferably in compact form. As is apparent from the foregoing, the compact composition according to the invention is "solid". "solid" means the state of the composition at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), ie a composition of high consistency which retains its shape during storage. In contrast to so-called fluid compositions, it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined below. - "Compact composition" means that the composition consists of a mixture of products whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction or pressing during manufacture. In particular, by performing a measurement with a texturometer TA.XT.plus Texture Analyzer sold by the company Stable Micro Systems, the compact powder according to the invention can advantageously have a pressure resistance of between 0.2 and 2.5 kg , especially between 0.8 and 1.5 kg, brought to the surface of the mobile used (in this case 7.07 mm 2). The measurement of this resistance is achieved by moving a SMS P / 3 flat-bottomed cylindrical mobile in contact with the powder, over a distance of 1.5 mm and at a speed of 0.5 mm / second. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition A and / or A 'is in compact form and of various shapes depending on the desired compaction, and in particular in the form of rollers, in the form of pucks, in the form of soaps, in the form of pyramids, in the form of cartons, or in the form of platelets. More preferably, when the composition comprises b) or b ') one or more oils and / or butters and / or fats, it is in compact form. The cosmetic composition A and / or A 'of the invention may also be in other non-compact galenic forms, such as a lotion, a mousse, a cream, a gel or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers.

It can also be packaged in pump bottle without propellant or under pressure in an aerosol bottle in the presence of a propellant and form a foam. Preferably the composition i) is in the form of a "poultice".

As mentioned above, the composition B and / or B 'is derived from the mixture between the composition A and / or A', preferably compact and / or anhydrous, and an aqueous composition C and / or C 'and preferably of water (only water) to lead to a mixture preferably in the form of a poultice. Composition B can therefore be used comprising: a) at least 10% by weight of henna powder as defined above; b) optionally at least one oil and / or a butter as defined previously; c) optionally at least one different fatty substance (s) of the oil or butters b), d) optionally at least one surfactant and e) optionally other additional natural dyes as defined below; and composition B 'comprising: a') at least 10% by weight of the indigo plant (s) powder (s); b ') optionally at least one oil and / or a butter as defined previously; c ') optionally at least one different fatty substance (s) of the oil or butters b), d) optionally at least one surfactant and e ") optionally other additional natural dyes as defined below.

To do this, the compositions A and A 'as defined above are preferably in compact and / or anhydrous form comprising the ingredients a) to e) and a') to e ') respectively as defined above and are mixed with a aqueous composition, and preferably mixed with water to obtain respectively a composition B and B 'preferably in the form of a poultice of a creamy and pleasant consistency. When the compositions A and A 'are compact, they are crumbled respectively in an aqueous composition C and C' and preferably the compositions A and A 'are compact and are crumbled in water. The ratios in compositions A and A 'according to the invention and in aqueous compositions C and C' respectively, preferably water, preferably range from 1 part by weight of composition A or A 'to 1 part by weight of aqueous composition C or C and preferably water (1/1) to 1 part by weight of composition A or A 'for 3 parts by weight of aqueous composition C or C' and preferably water (1/3). According to another particular embodiment of the invention, compositions B and / or B 'comprise only ingredients of natural origin.

During the preparation of the composition B or B ', one or more clays, which may be identical or different, may be added as defined below. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition B or B 'is at a neutral pH close to 7 (preferably ranging from 6 to 8, better still from 6.5 to 7.5).

The compositions A, A ', B, B', and C or C 'may comprise one or more organic solvents. As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example lower alkanols in Cl-04, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol. The organic solvents are present in proportions preferably of between 0.1 and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition in question, and still more preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight approximately. The compositions A, A ', C, and / or C' may comprise one or more surfactants such as those that may be present in the composition B or B '. Adjuvants: The compositions A, A ', B, B', C and / or C 'of the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, non-ionic polymers. ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or mixtures thereof, inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents other than the butters or oils of the invention such as, for example, ceramides, film-forming agents, preservatives, opacifying agents and inorganic or organic thickeners such as clays. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions B, B ', C and C' are not in emulsion form. Preferably in this embodiment none of the compositions A, A ', B, B', C and C ' contains no surfactants. According to another advantageous variant, the compositions B, B ', C and / or C' are in emulsion form. Preferably compositions B, B ', C and / or C' then contain surfactants.

The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition considered.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition B or B 'useful in the coloring process according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged. d) Additional dyes: The compositions A, A ', B, B', C and / or C 'of the invention comprising the ingredients a) to d) and a') to d ') as defined previously can contain in additionally, e) or e ') one or more additional direct dyes different from the henna powder or indigo-producing plant (s) a) or a'). These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which may be mentioned all the aromatic and / or nonaromatic dyes of current use such as neutral, benzene neutral, acidic or cationic direct dyes, direct dyes neutral azo, acidic or cationic, natural direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinone dyes, direct dyes azine, triarylmethane, indoamine, methines, styrils, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes. Preferably, the compositions A, A ', B, B', C and / or C 'of the invention may comprise one or more natural dyes different from henna and from indeterminate plant (s) a) as defined above. e) or e ') respectively. Among the natural direct dyes that may be mentioned are juglone, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. These natural dyes can be added as defined compounds, extracts, or parts of plants. Said defined compounds of extracts, or part of plants are preferably in the form of powders, especially fine whose particles have sizes identical to that of the henna powder and / or indigestible plant (s) a) as defined above.

The direct dye or dyes, natural or not different from the henna powder and / or indigestible plant (s) a), of the composition according to the invention represents, in particular, from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition and even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question. Preferably the composition B or B 'of the invention does not contain synthetic direct dyes, i.e. which have no natural occurrence. Compositions A, A ', B and / or B', comprising ingredients a) to e) and a ') to e') as defined above, as well as composition C and / or C 'according to the invention may further comprise as oxidation dye (s) one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers. Among the oxidation bases that may be mentioned are para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.

Preferentially, the compositions A, A ', B, B', C and / or C 'of the invention do not contain para-phenylenediamine (s). Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.

The oxidation base (s) present in the composition (s) are in general present each in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition (s). Preferably the compositions A, A ', B, B', C and / or C 'do not contain oxidation dyes. pH of the compositions B, B ', C and / or C' According to one particular mode of the invention, the pH of the aqueous compositions B and B 'as well as the pH of the aqueous compositions C and C' are neutral ie of pH around 7 (preferably from 6 to 8, more preferably from 6.5 to 7.5). According to another particular embodiment of the invention compositions B and B 'used in the process of the invention and / or compositions C and C' are acidic and preferably pH has a pH ranging from 3 to 6, 5. The pH of the compositions B, B ', C and / or C can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems present in compositions A, A 'or in compositions C, C' mixed with composition A, A 'to give composition B, B' respectively. Among the acidifying agents of the compositions used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids, preferably the acid is an organic acid such as citric acid. The alkaline agents are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or hydrogenocarbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of the following formula: Embedded image in which VV is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; Ra, Rb, R, and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.

Process for preparing composition A and A 'Compositions A and A' can be obtained in the following manner: Ingredients a) to e), or a ') to e') as defined are mixed by hand or with a conventional mixer and / or an extruder and / or are subjected to a conventional mechanical stress pressure. Coloring process using the composition of the invention According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, implementing the following steps: i) initially treating the keratinous fibers with an aqueous composition B comprising: c) at least 10% by weight, based on the weight of said composition, of red henna powder; and d) at least one oil, preferably of plant origin and / or at least one butter, preferably of plant origin; then - ii) in a second step the elimination of the composition of the keratinous fibers, preferably by rinsing; - iii) optionally the application of a heat treatment to keratinous fibers, at a temperature above 60 ° C, preferably from 60 ° C to 220 ° C, preferably with a hair dryer; and then treating the keratinous fibers with an aqueous composition B 'comprising: a') at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition, of indigestible plant powder (s) and b ') optionally at least an oil, preferably of plant origin and / or at least one butter, preferably of plant origin; then repeat steps ii) and iii).

According to a first particular embodiment of the invention i) of the process compositions B and B 'respectively contain as ingredient b) and b') one or more oils as defined above. According to another particular embodiment of the process of the invention ii) the composition B contains as ingredient b) one or more oils as defined above and the composition B 'contains neither oil nor butter. According to yet another particular variant of the process of the invention iii) composition B contains as ingredient b) one or more oils as defined above and composition B 'contains as ingredient b') one or more butters as defined above. According to another particular embodiment of the process of the invention iv) compositions B and B 'respectively contain as ingredient b) and b') one or more butters as defined above. According to another preferred variant of the process of the invention v) the composition B contains as ingredient b) one or more butters as defined above and the composition B 'contains neither oil nor butter. According to another particular variant of the process of the invention vi) the composition B contains as ingredient b) one or more butters as defined above and the composition B 'contains as ingredient b') one or more oils as defined above. According to another advantageous variant of the process of the invention, composition B does not contain ingredient b) and composition B 'contains as ingredient b') one or more butters as defined above and / or one or more oils such as previously defined.

In a particularly preferred manner the dyeing process is carried out according to option ii) above. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process is carried out in at least four successive stages, in the first step the composition B as defined above is preferably prepared in the form of a "poultice" from composition A, preferably compact and / or anhydrous, and an aqueous composition C, preferably water; during the second step said composition B as defined above is applied to the keratinous fibers, and is left on said fibers preferably a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably a time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours, better going from 1 to 12 hours; in the third step, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water until the composition of said fibers B disappears, preferably without shampooing; optionally, the keratinous fibers are then dried with a hair dryer or with a heating iron; then - during the fourth step, the composition B 'as defined above is preferably prepared in the form of a "poultice" from composition A', preferably compact and / or anhydrous, and an aqueous composition C ' preferably water; during the fifth step said composition B 'as defined above is applied to the keratinous fibers, and is left on said fibers preferably a minimum time of 30 minutes, preferably a time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours, better ranging from 1 hour to 12 hours; in the sixth step, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water until the composition of said fibers B 'disappears, preferably without shampooing; optionally, the keratinous fibers are then dried with a hair dryer or with a heating iron; it being understood that: composition A comprises: a) at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of said red henna powder composition as defined above; b) optionally at least one oil and / or a butter as defined previously; c) optionally at least one different fatty substance or oils or butters b); and d) optionally at least one surfactant; e) optionally at least one natural dye different from a) and a ') as defined above and composition A' comprises: a ') at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition, of plant powder ( s) indigestible (s), as defined above; b ') optionally at least one oil, as defined previously; c ') optionally at least one different fatty substance or oils or butters b); and d) optionally at least one surfactant as defined above; e ') optionally at least one natural dye different from a) and a') as defined above; it being understood that at least one of the two compositions B or B 'comprises at least one oil and / or a butter b) or b'). According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process is carried out in at least four successive stages, in the first step the composition B is preferably prepared in the form of a "poultice" as defined above from of the composition A as defined above; in the second step, the composition B is applied to the keratinous fibers, and is left on the said fibers preferably for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably a time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours, better still from 1 hour to 12 hours; hours; during the third step, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water until the composition B of the keratinous fibers disappears; - The keratinous fibers are then dried preferably in the hair dryer; then - in the fourth step the composition B 'is preferably prepared in the form of "poultice" as defined above from the composition A' as defined above; in the fifth step, the composition B 'is applied to the keratinous fibers, and is left on the said fibers preferably for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably a time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours, better still from 1 hour at 12 o'clock ; during the sixth step, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water until the composition B 'of the keratinous fibers disappears; and the keratinous fibers are then dried, preferably with a hair dryer. To prepare the compositions B and B ', preferably in the form of a poultice, in the first step, the aqueous compositions C and C' are mixed with the compositions A and A 'respectively as defined above. Preferably the mixing is with water used at a temperature ranging from 40 ° C to 98 ° C. According to another embodiment of the invention, the compositions A and A 'are mixed or crumbled with or in aqueous compositions C and C' and preferably water at a temperature below 40 ° C., in particular included between 10 ° C and 40 ° C. Preferably the ratio by weight of composition A and / or A 'of the invention / amount by weight of aqueous composition C and / or C' and preferably water is 1/1 to 1/3, preference is 1/2. Whatever the mode of application, the application temperature of composition B or B 'on keratinous fibers varies from room temperature (15 to 25 ° C.) to 80 ° C. and more particularly from 15 to 45 ° C. . Thus, it is advantageous, after application of composition B and / or composition B 'according to the invention, to subject the hair to heat treatment by heating at a temperature ranging from 30 to 60 ° C. In practice, this operation can be carried out by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared dispenser and other conventional heaters. More particularly, the process of the invention is carried out according to the following two methods: Process 1: A composition B is preferably applied on a head, preferably in the form of a poultice containing at least 10% Henne powder (1 part) as defined previously and water at a temperature between 40 and 98 ° C (2-3 parts), for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably between 30 minutes and 24 hours, better between 1 hour and 12 hours, before rinsing, preferably without shampooing, then the hair is dried and then applied after a period of between 1 hour and 1 week and preferably between 12 hours and 48 hours such that after a period of 24 hours a composition B 'containing at least 10% by weight of indigestible plant powder (s) (1part) and water at a temperature between 40 and 98 ° C (2-3 parts), for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably between 30 minutes and 24 hours, better between 1 hour and 12 hours before rinse, preferably without shampooing, then dry the hair. Method 2: A composition B is preferably applied in the form of a poultice containing at least 10% Henné powder (1 part) as defined previously and water at a temperature of between 10 ° C. and 40 ° C. ( 2-3 parts), for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably between 30 minutes and 24 hours, better between 1 hour and 12 hours, before rinsing, preferably without shampooing, then the hair is dried and then applied after a duration of between 1 hour and one week, preferably after a period of 24 hours, a composition B ', preferably in the form of a poultice containing indigo (1 part) and water at a temperature of between 10 ° C. and 40 ° C (2-3 parts), for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably between 30 minutes and 24 hours, better between 1 hour and 12 hours before rinsing, preferably without shampooing, and then the hair is dried. Preferably after drying the hair then a heating iron is used between 100 and 230 ° C and preferably between 130 and 180 ° C along the hair.

A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a dyeing process which is carried out at room temperature (25 ° C). According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, all the ingredients used in the dyeing process are of natural origin, and preferably of plant origin.

I) EXAMPLES OF COLORING The percentages are given by weight relative to 100 g of composition. Composition 1: Ingredient Trade name Quantity Natural henna powder (Lawsonia inermis) Natural henna powder 75 g% Refined coconut oil Refined coconut oil GV 25 g% 24/26 Composition 2 Ingredient Trade name Quantity Indigo powder (Indigofera tinctoria) 1% by weight of the composition 1 with 3 parts by weight of hot water (approximately 60 ° C) in a bowl. The poultice obtained on 90% white hair is applied with a break time of 30 minutes.

The hair is rinsed thoroughly until there is no visible poultice left in the eye. Dry hair with dry hair. 1 part by weight of the composition 2 is mixed with 3 parts by weight of hot water (approximately 60 ° C.) in a bowl.

The poultice obtained is applied to the hair previously colored with composition 1 with a pause time of 30 minutes. The hair is rinsed thoroughly until there is no more poultice observable to the eye. Dry hair with dry hair.

An intense brown coloration is obtained. 10

Claims (19)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, implementing the following steps: i) initially treating the keratinous fibers with an aqueous composition B comprising: a) at least 10% by weight, based on the weight of said composition, of red henna powder; and b) optionally at least one oil, preferably of plant origin and / or at least one butter, preferably of plant origin; then - ii) in a second step the elimination of the composition of the keratinous fibers, preferably by rinsing; - iii) optionally the application of a heat treatment to keratinous fibers, at a temperature above 60 ° C, preferably from 60 ° C to 220 ° C, preferably with a hair dryer or a heating iron; and then treating the keratinous fibers with an aqueous composition B 'comprising: a') at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition, of indigestible plant powder (s) and b ') optionally at at least one oil, preferably of plant origin and / or at least one butter, preferably of plant origin; then repeat steps ii) and iii); it being understood that at least one of the two compositions B or B 'comprises at least one oil and / or a butter b) or b'). 2. Method according to the preceding claim wherein the ingredient a) and / or a ') powder consists of fine particles less than or equal to 500 lm; Preferably the powder consists of fine particles of size inclusively between 50 and 300 μm and more particularly between 10 and 200 μm. 3. Process according to claims 1 or 2 wherein the ingredient a ') represents the species of the genera selected from: 35 - Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffraticosa, Indigofera articulata Indigofera arrecta, Indigo will make gerardiana, Indigo will make money, Indigo will do indica, or Indigo will do longiracemosa; - Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria; - Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium or Persica ria tinctoria; 40 - Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria; - Calanthus such as Calanthe veratrifolia; and- Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia and more particularly Indigo will make tinctoria. 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the ingredient a) and / or a ') is in an amount of between 10% and 90% by weight, more particularly between 15 and 70% and even between 20 and 60%. % by weight, more particularly between 25 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B or B '. 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein ingredient b) and / or b ') represents one or more oils preferably selected from non-silicone oils and in particular hydrocarbons and C6-C16 or more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; oils of animal origin; triglyceride oils of vegetable origin; essential oils ; glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols; fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides, and silicone oils. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which ingredient b) and / or b ') is chosen from oils of plant origin such as jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive and walnut oils. coconut, brazil nuts, marula, maize, argan, soya, squash, grape seed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, almond, castor oil, avocado, shea butter oil as well as rapeseed oil, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed and coconut oil, preferentially the or the oils, ingredient b) and / or b ') are selected from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, coconut oil, argan oil and 'sunflower oil ; more preferably, the oil or oils, ingredient b) and / or b ') are chosen from coconut oils. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which ingredient b) and / or b ') represents one or more butters, preferably chosen from butters of natural origin, and particularly of plant origin, such as those chosen from Shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Butter butter Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), Coffee butter (Coffea arabica), Apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Mac butter adamia (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), butter cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter; preferentially the butter or butters according to the invention are chosen from Murumuru butter, Ucuuba butter, Shorea butter, Ilipé butter, Shea butter, Cupuaçu butter and even more preferably from butter. Murumuru and Ucuuba butter. 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein ingredient b) and / or b ') represents a mixture of oil (s) and butter (s) as defined in any one of claims 1 and 5 to 7. . 9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition B and / or B 'comprises at least one ingredient b) and / or b') in an amount between 1 and 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the product. composition, more particularly between 5 and 60% by weight, preferably between 10 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B or B '. The process of any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition B and / or B 'of the invention contains water in an amount of from 5 to 90%, more preferably from 20 to 80%, particularly from 40 to 75%. % by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims which is carried out in at least four successive stages, - in the first step the composition B as defined in any one of the preceding claims is preferably prepared in the form of "poultice" from composition A, preferably compact and / or anhydrous, and an aqueous composition C, preferably water; during the second step said composition B as defined above is applied to the keratinous fibers, and is left on said fibers preferably a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably a time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours, better going from 1 to 12 hours; in the third step, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water until the composition of said fibers B disappears, preferably without shampooing; optionally, the keratinous fibers are then dried with a hair dryer or with a heating iron; then - in the fourth step, the composition B 'as defined in any one of the preceding claims is preferably prepared in the form of a "poultice" from composition A', preferably compact and / or anhydrous, and an aqueous composition C ', preferably water - during the fifth step said composition B' as defined above is applied to the keratin fibers, and is left on said fibers preferably a minimum time of 30 minutes, preferentially a time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours, better from 1 hour to 12 hours; in the sixth step, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water until the composition of said fibers B 'disappears, preferably without shampooing; optionally, the keratinous fibers are then dried with a hair dryer or with a heating iron; it being understood that composition A comprises: a) at least 10% by weight, based on the weight of said red henna powder composition as defined in claim 1 or 2; b) optionally at least one oil and / or a butter as defined in any one of claims 5 to 8; c) optionally at least one different fatty substance or oils or butters b); and d) optionally at least one surfactant; e) optionally at least one natural dye different from a) and a ') and the composition A' comprises: a ') at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition, of indigestible plant powder (s) ( s) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4; b ') optionally at least one oil, as defined in any one of claims 5 to 8; c ') optionally at least one different fatty substance or oils or butters b); and d) optionally at least one surfactant; e ') optionally at least one natural dye different from a) and a'); it being understood that at least one of the two compositions B or B 'comprises at least one oil and / or a butter b) or b'). 12. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the ratio of composition A and / or A 'and the aqueous composition C and / or C' ranges from 1 part by weight of composition A and / or A 'to 1 part by weight of composition. aqueous C and / or C ', preferably water, (1/1) to 1 part by weight of composition A and / or A' for 3 parts by weight of aqueous composition, preferably water, (1/3) more preferably 1 part by weight of composition A and / or A 'for 2 parts of aqueous composition C and / or C' and preferably of water (1/2). Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition B and / or B 'and / or A and / or A' and / or C and / or C 'of the invention contains d) and / or d) one or more anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants and preferably one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants, in particular mono- or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, more particularly chosen from acid esters in the form of 030, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol and anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl sulphates, in particular alkali or alkaline earth metal lauryl ether sulphate. 14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compositions A, B, C, A ', B' and / or C 'additionally contain one or more ingredients chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers. zwitterionic or their mixtures, mineral or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents , conditioning agents other than b) or b ') such as ceramides, film-forming agents, preservatives, opacifying agents and mineral or organic thickeners such as clays. 15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which: (i) The compositions B and B 'respectively contain as ingredient (b) and (b') one or more oils as defined in any one of claims 1, 5, 6, and 9 to 14 ii) The composition B contains as ingredient b) one or more oils as defined in any one of claims 1, 5, 6, and 9 to 14 and the composition B 'contains neither oil nor butter; iii) either the composition B contains as ingredient b) one or more oils as defined in any one of claims 1, 5, 6, and 9 to 14 and the composition B 'contains as ingredient b') one or more butters such as defined in any one of claims 1, 7, 9 to 14; iv) The compositions B and B 'respectively contain as ingredient b) and b') one or more butters as defined in any one of claims 1, 7, 9 to 14; v) Either composition B contains as ingredient b) one or more butters and composition B 'contains neither oil nor butter; vi) Either composition B contains as ingredient b) one or more butters as defined in any one of claims 1, 7, 9 to 14 and composition B 'contains as ingredient b') one or more oils as defined in a any of claims 1, 5, 6, and 9 to 14; vii) either composition B does not contain ingredient b) and composition B 'contains as ingredient b') one or more butters and / or one or more oils as defined in any one of claims 1, 5 to 14; preferably option ii) is chosen. 16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which all the ingredients used in said process are of natural origin, and preferably of plant origin. 17. A process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein composition B and / or B 'is at a pH of from 6 to 8, more preferably from 6.5 to 7.5. 18. A method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the aqueous compositions C and C 'are mixed with the compositions A and A' respectively as defined in any one of claims 11 to 16, with water used at a temperature ranging from 40 ° C to 98 ° C to yield compositions B and B 'preferably as a poultice. 19. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which a composition B is preferably applied in the form of a poultice containing at least 10% henna powder (1 part) as defined in any one of the preceding claims and water at a temperature between 40 and 98 ° C (2-3 parts), for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably between 30 minutes and 24 hours, better between 1 hour and 12 hours, before rinsing, preferably without shampooing , then the hair is dried and then applied after a period of between 1 hour and 1 week and preferably between 12 hours and 48 hours, preferably at a duration of 24 hours a B 'poultice containing at least 10% by weight of powder of indigestible plant (s) (1part) as defined in any one of the preceding claims and water at a temperature between 40 and 98 ° C (2-3 parts), for a minimum of 30 minutes, of preference in 30 minutes and 24 hours, better between 1 hour and 12 hours before rinsing, preferably without shampooing, then hair is dried.