FR3144006A1 - ASSOCIATION COMPRISING AN EXTRACT OF SPIRULINA OR INDIGO PIGMENT AND A BLACK IRON OXIDE PIGMENT, AND USES - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination of spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment and black iron oxide pigment to bring radiance to the complexion of the skin and/or mucous membranes. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of spirulina and/or indigo pigment in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a black iron oxide pigment, to reduce an effect of dulling the color of the skin. said cosmetic or dermatological composition due to the presence of black iron oxide pigment, or to render a deeper black color. The present invention further relates to a combination comprising an extract of spirulina and/or indigo pigment and a black iron oxide pigment, in which the ratio between the quantity of spirulina extract or indigo extract and the quantity of black iron oxide is between 1/99 and 99/1, preferably about 100/0, the value of 0 being possibly excluded.

Description

ASSOCIATION COMPRISING AN EXTRACT OF SPIRULINA OR INDIGO PIGMENT AND A BLACK IRON OXIDE PIGMENT, AND USES Technical field of the invention

The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination of spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment and black iron oxide pigment, as well as to a combination comprising a spirulina extract and/or of indigo pigment and a black iron oxide pigment.

The present invention finds application in particular in the field of cosmetics.

Prior art

Cosmetic products intended for skin and lip makeup aim to provide an aesthetic effect, in particular by providing more or less pronounced coloring, or even a camouflage effect with regard to skin defects.

To provide such effects, cosmetic products generally combine mineral or organic fillers and coloring agents.

The fillers make it possible to give body and/or softness to the cosmetic product, and uniformity to the makeup.

Concerning coloring agents, they are more particularly used as opacifier and/or dye and are generally present at a sufficient concentration to provide the desired color.

The most frequently used coloring agents are pigments. These are generally white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the hydrophilic or lipophilic liquid phase, intended to color and/or opacify the cosmetic product, the skin or the mucous membranes.

Black iron oxide pigments are known for their superficial and momentary covering and coloring properties on the skin. They are typically used in makeup products such as foundations, mascara, and eyeliners. However, it can be difficult to add radiance to the skin using these products because they tend to have a grayish effect, which makes the complexion dull after application to the skin, and the color shallow.

There is therefore a real need for cosmetic products overcoming these defects, disadvantages and obstacles of the prior art, in particular making it possible to obtain sustained coloring and/or avoid dulling the complexion after application of iron oxide pigments to the skin. skin or mucous membranes.

The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs and disadvantages of the prior art.

The inventors have also developed a combination comprising an extract of spirulina and/or indigo pigment and a black iron oxide pigment, to meet these needs, and in particular to bring radiance to the skin's complexion and /or mucous membranes.

The inventors have further demonstrated that an extract of spirulina and/or indigo pigment makes it possible, in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a black iron oxide pigment, to reduce a dulling effect on the color of the composition. due to the presence of the black iron oxide pigment, and to render a deeper black coloring, which is particularly advantageous for use in a mascara or eyeliner.

Thus, a first object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination of spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment and black iron oxide pigment to bring radiance to the skin's complexion. the skin and/or mucous membranes.

A second subject of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of spirulina and/or indigo pigment in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a black iron oxide pigment, to increase the depth of the shade black of said cosmetic or dermatological composition due to the presence of black iron oxide pigment.

A third object of the invention relates to an association comprising an extract of spirulina and/or indigo pigment and a black iron oxide pigment, in which the ratio between the quantity of spirulina extract or extract of indigo and the quantity of black iron oxide is between 99/1 and 1/99, preferably approximately 100/0, the value of 0 being possibly excluded.

A fourth object of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising the combination, and at least one cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

Finally, a fifth object of the invention relates to a device in a form chosen from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a patch, a spray, said device comprising the association, or the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

Spirulina is a filamentous blue-green cyanobacteria. Its health benefits have earned it international popularity. It is used in the food industry in the form of powder, flakes, tablets or even capsules. Spirulina is considered a superfood due to its unique nutritional properties in the world, as well as its anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. In addition, it is one of the best sources of vegetable protein available, in addition to being an exceptional source of iron. In the context of the invention, any species of spirulina can be used, such as Spirulina Platensis and/or Spirulina Maxima. The origin of the spirulina used is not particularly limited, and natural products or cultures can be used appropriately.

A “spirulina extract”, within the meaning of the present invention, can be any blue-colored extract making it possible to obtain the effects mentioned above. It may be a total extract obtained by cryogrinding, an extract obtained by grinding and drying, an extract obtained by pressure, an extract obtained by the action of a solvent, an extract obtained from an enzymatic process or by cell lysis. The extract can be insoluble or very partially soluble.

Advantageously, the spirulina extract also has anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, which are particularly advantageous for cosmetic use.

Indigo is a purplish-blue coloring material whose oldest use is for dyeing clothing. This material is traditionally extracted from the leaves and/or stems of various dye plants, including indigo, dyer's woad in Europe, dyer's knotweed in China, Strobilanthes cusia in Southeast Asia, gara Philenoptera cyanescens in Africa. Various manufacturing processes were also developed, making it possible to obtain synthetic indigos such as indanthrone blue (BASF). In the context of the invention, an indigo, preferably natural, can be used. Preferably, the indigo used is a natural pigment from fresh knotweed leaves.

Black iron oxide pigments are natural or synthetic pigments, with high coloring power, traditionally used to obtain a bluish black or a deeper black. In cosmetics, the pigment used is iron tetraoxide (INCI name: CI 77499), present in foundations, mascaras, and eyeliners. They allow you to darken other colors and enlarge color palettes by creating gradients, notably more or less dark, black, saturated or gray.

By “skin”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant light skin, type I (Celtic type), II (Germanic type), III (European type) or IV (Mediterranean type).

By “bringing radiance to the complexion”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant the fact of making the skin more luminous and/or obtaining a less dull and/or more radiant complexion. Advantageously, the radiance index of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of spirulina and/or indigo is greater than a cosmetic composition not comprising such an extract. This effect can be measured by any known method, for example by means of a multi-angle goniospectrophotometer.

By “reducing an effect of dulling of the color”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant the fact of making a cosmetic or dermatological composition more luminous, less dull, less grayish, less olive, more “glowy” (more radiant or radiant) compared to the same composition not comprising spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment. Here again, this effect can be measured by any known method, for example by means of a multi-angle goniospectrophotometer.

By “making a deeper black color”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant the fact of obtaining a more intense black color, with no or little reflection, compared to the same composition not comprising an extract of spirulina and/or indigo pigment. This effect is advantageous particularly in the field of mascaras and eyeliners. This effect can be measured by any known method, for example using a goniospectrophotometer.

Advantageously, in the combination of the invention, the ratio between the quantity of spirulina extract and/or indigo extract and the quantity of black iron oxide can be 1/99, or 5/ 95, or 10/90, or 20/80, or 30/70, or 40/60, or 50/50, or 60/40, or 70/30, or 80/20, or 90/10, or 95/5, or 99/1, or 100/0, the value of 0 being excluded.

Advantageously, in the composition of the invention, the percentage by weight of the spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment can be between 0.0001 and 11.250%, by weight, and the percentage by weight of iron oxide black is between 0.0001 and 15.000%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, when the composition of the invention is a composition that unifies the skin tone, for example a foundation, the percentage by weight of the spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment can be between 0.0001 and 2, 5%, by weight, and the percentage by weight of black iron oxide is between 0.0001 and 2.5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In this case, the percentage by weight of the spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment may be between 0.0001 and 2.5%, or between 0.01 and 2.5%, or between 0. .1 and 2.5%, or between 1.0 and 2.0%. The percentage by weight of black iron oxide may be between 0.0001 and 2.5%, or between 0.01 and 2.5%, or between 0.1 and 2.5%, or between 1.0 and 2.0%.

Advantageously, when the composition of the invention is a mascara or an eyeliner, the percentage by weight of the spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment can be between 0.0001 and 11.250%, by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition, for example approximately 0.15%, or approximately 0.75%, or approximately 1.5%, or approximately 3.75%, or approximately 7.5%, or approximately 11.25%. The percentage by weight of the black iron oxide can be between 0.0001 and 15.000% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example approximately 3.75%, or approximately 7.5%, or approximately 11 .25%, or approximately 13.5%, or approximately 14.25%, or approximately 14.85%.

By “cosmetic or dermatological composition” is meant, in the present invention, any composition for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, or for skin application, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis. , hair and capillary systems, scalp and external mucous membranes. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition makes it possible, exclusively or mainly, to protect them, perfume them, maintain them in good condition, modify their aesthetic appearance or correct superficial defects. In particular, a cosmetic composition may comprise at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle. Advantageously, the composition can be chosen from a composition that unifies the skin tone, for example a foundation, a tinted cream, a BB cream, a foundation powder, a blush, a concealer, a complexion highlighter or a concealer; it can also be an eyelash and/or eyebrow coloring composition and a composition highlighting the edge of the eyelids.

By “cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle” is meant at least one vehicle suitable for use in contact with human skin cells, in particular cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit/risk ratio. As such, the vehicle can be any vehicle suitable for obtaining a composition in anhydrous form, or in water-in-oil emulsion form, or in emulsion form, oil in water or even an aqueous gel.

The cosmetic composition used in the invention can be obtained by any appropriate process known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It could be, for example, a simple mixture. It may also be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a rotor-stator type turbine or a turbine. pale deflocculator type.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain additional cosmetic ingredients conventionally used for the formulation of particular galenics generally adjusted with regard to the keratin material targeted. This or these additional cosmetic ingredients may in particular be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, film-forming polymers, nonionic, anionic, cationic surfactants, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, sunscreens, bactericides, odor absorbers, additional coloring materials such as pigments, pearls, water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, salts, and their mixtures. The quantities of additional cosmetic ingredients are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.01 to 15% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention can be found in any form used in cosmetics, for example a cream, an ointment, a balm, a butter, a milk, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, an aqueous gel, and an anhydrous product in gel or stick form.

Other advantages may still appear to those skilled in the art on reading the examples below, illustrated by the appended figures, given for illustrative purposes.

Brief description of the figures

represents the measurement of the radiance factor at 0° incidence angle as a function of the reflection angle, of a formulation comprising spirulina or indigo extract mixed with an iron oxide pigment in 50/50 proportions (KADFA25 and KADFA29 respectively) in comparison with an equivalent formula devoid of spirulina extract (KADFA28), and with a “Le radieux” foundation formula (Yves Rocher Plant Biology Laboratories) and Super Mat foundation.

represents the measurement of the average radiance factor, as a function of the reflection angles (in °), for different formulas as described in Example 2, of shade 200 beige corresponding to the type II phototype.

represents the measurement of the average radiance factor, as a function of the reflection angles (in °), for different formulas as described in Example 3, of brown shade 900 corresponding to the type IV phototype.

represents the measurement of the average radiance factor, as a function of the reflection angles (in °), for different formulas as described in Example 4, of matte black color.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Increase in radiance (radiance) provided by a composition comprising a combination of a spirulina or indigo extract and black iron oxide pigment in a beige foundation for a phototype II

An extract of spirulina (Sensient, NATPURE a foundation formula from the brand “Le Radieux” (Yves Rocher Plant Biology Laboratories), which is a W/O emulsion, shade 200 beige corresponding to type II phototype).

The brightness (Delta L) of these formulas (noted KADFA25 for the formula containing spirulina and KADFA29 for the formula containing indigo on the ) is compared by measurements with a multi-angle goniospectrophotometer (Seelab GX), to that of an equivalent formula but containing only black iron oxide (noted KADFA28 on the ), in a quantity equal to double the quantity of black iron oxide contained in the KADFA25 formula, as well as that of the “Le Radieux” foundation and the “Super Mat” foundation (Teinte 200 beige corresponding to a type II phototype, Yves Rocher Plant Biology Laboratories).

The results, shown in , show that formulas containing spirulina or indigo extract mixed with an iron oxide pigment in 50/50 proportions have a radiance factor (giving radiance to the formula) higher than that of other formulas.

Example 2: Increase in radiance (radiance) provided by a composition comprising a combination of a blue pigment extract and black iron oxide pigment in a beige foundation for a phototype II

Associations are made in proportions and in formulas as mentioned in Table I below. The radiance index (“glow”) is compared in each formula with that measured for the foundation (FDT) “Le Radieux”, which is, as indicated in Example 1, a W/O emulsion, shade 200 corresponding beige to the type II phototype.

Reference KADFA25 KADFA28 KADFA29 KADFA31 KADFA32 KADFA33 KADFA34 KADFC03 KADFC04 FDT Le Radieux Tint 200 beige (phototype II) 200 beige (phototype II) 200 beige (phototype II) 200 beige (phototype II) 200 beige (phototype II) 200 beige (phototype II) 200 beige (phototype II) 200 beige (phototype II) 200 beige (phototype II) 200 beige (phototype II) Pigment ratio 50/50 spirulina / black iron oxide 100% OX IRON BLACK 50/50 INDIGO / OX IRON BLACK 100% spirulina 50/50 INDIGO / SPIRULINA 75/25 spirulina / black iron oxide 25/75 spirulina / black iron oxide 10/90 spirulina / black iron oxide 5/95 spirulina / black iron oxide 100% black iron oxide Glow Index superior to the FDT Le Radieux bench Slightly superior to the FDT Le Radieux bench superior to the FDT Le Radieux bench superior to the FDT Le Radieux bench superior to the FDT Le Radieux bench superior to the FDT Le Radieux bench superior to the FDT Le Radieux bench superior to the FDT Le Radieux bench superior to the FDT Le Radieux bench N / A Type/galenic Stick/anhydrous foundation Stick/anhydrous foundation Stick/anhydrous foundation Stick/anhydrous foundation Stick/anhydrous foundation Stick/anhydrous foundation Stick/anhydrous foundation W/O emulsion foundation W/O emulsion foundation W/O emulsion foundation

The measurements presented in Table I, and represented in , show that a combination of natural blue pigment, whether spirulina or indigo, with black iron oxide, makes it possible to increase the radiance of a beige foundation for phototype II.

Example 3: Increase in radiance (radiance) provided by a composition comprising a combination of a spirulina extract and black iron oxide pigment in a brown foundation for phototype IV

Associations are made in proportions and in formulas as mentioned in Table II below. The radiance index (“glow”) is compared in each formula with that measured for the foundation (FDT) “Zéro Défaut” (Laboratoires de Biologie Végétale Yves Rocher), which is a W/O emulsion, shade 900 brown corresponding to the type IV phototype.

Reference KADFC01 KADFC02 FDT Zero Defect Tint 900 brown (phototype IV) 900 brown (phototype IV) 900 brown (phototype IV) Pigment ratio 50/50 SPIRULINA / OX BLACK IRON 75/25 SPIRULINA / OX BLACK IRON 100% black iron oxide Glow Index superior to the FDT Zero Defect bench superior to the FDT Zero Defect bench N / A Type/galenic W/O emulsion foundation W/O emulsion foundation W/O emulsion foundation

The measurements presented in Table 2, and represented in , show that a combination of spirulina with black iron oxide can increase the radiance of a brown foundation for phototype IV.

Example 4: Increase in depth provided by a composition comprising a combination of spirulina extract and black iron oxide pigment in an eyeliner

Associations are made in proportions and in formulas as mentioned in Table III below. The radiance index (“glow”) is compared in each formula with that measured for the product “Eye liner matte” (Laboratoires de Biologie Végétale Yves Rocher), which is an aqueous gel.

Reference KADFB05 KADFB06 Matte eyeliner Tint Matte Black) Matte Black) Matte Black) Pigment ratio 50/50 BLACK IRON OXIDE/ SPIRULINA 100% SPIRULINA 100% black iron oxide Glow Index superior to the bench Eye Liner Mat superior to the bench Eye Liner Mat N / A Type/galenic Aqueous gel Aqueous gel Aqueous gel

The measurements presented in Table 3, and represented in , show that a combination of spirulina pigment with black iron oxide can increase the depth of a black tint. This shows the interest of the invention for use in eyeliner and mascara products.

.

Claims (10)

Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination of spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment and black iron oxide pigment to bring radiance to the complexion of the skin and/or mucous membranes. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of spirulina and/or indigo pigment in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a black iron oxide pigment, to increase the depth of the black tint of said cosmetic or dermatological composition due to the presence black iron oxide pigment. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said black iron oxide is iron tetraoxide, said spirulina extract comes from at least one species chosen from Spirulina Platensis and Spirulina Maxima, and said indigo pigment is a pigment natural from fresh leaves of knotweed. Association comprising a spirulina extract and/or indigo pigment and a black iron oxide pigment, in which the ratio between the quantity of spirulina extract or indigo extract and the quantity of black iron oxide is between 99/1 and 1/99, preferably approximately 100/0, the value of 0 being possibly excluded. Association according to claim 4, in which said black iron oxide is iron tetraoxide, and said indigo pigment is a natural pigment derived from fresh leaves of dyer's knotweed. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an association according to claim 4 or 5 and at least one cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable vehicle. Composition according to claim 6, in which the percentage by weight of the spirulina extract or indigo pigment is between 0.0001 and 11.250% by weight, and the percentage by weight of black iron oxide is between 0. 0001 and 15.000% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that it is a composition chosen from a composition unifying the skin tone, an eyelash and/or eyebrow coloring composition and a composition highlighting the edge of the eyelids. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that it is in a form chosen from a cream, an ointment, a balm, a butter, a milk, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion , an aqueous gel, and an anhydrous product in gel or stick form. Device in a form chosen from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a patch, a spray, said device comprising an association as defined in claim 4 or 5, or a composition as defined according to any one of claims 6 to 9.