EP3562462A1 - Cosmetic composition with universal optical correction - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition with universal optical correctionInfo
- Publication number
- EP3562462A1 EP3562462A1 EP17825227.6A EP17825227A EP3562462A1 EP 3562462 A1 EP3562462 A1 EP 3562462A1 EP 17825227 A EP17825227 A EP 17825227A EP 3562462 A1 EP3562462 A1 EP 3562462A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- powders
- composition
- skin
- particles
- cosmetic
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 160
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 48
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 36
- 238000012937 correction Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 35
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 95
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 82
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 71
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 45
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 42
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 100
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 99
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 76
- 229920003229 poly(methyl methacrylate) Polymers 0.000 claims description 58
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 claims description 44
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 claims description 42
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 36
- 239000001023 inorganic pigment Substances 0.000 claims description 30
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 26
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 26
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 25
- PNEYBMLMFCGWSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium oxide Inorganic materials [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Al+3].[Al+3] PNEYBMLMFCGWSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 21
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000004926 polymethyl methacrylate Substances 0.000 claims description 19
- RJDOZRNNYVAULJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L [O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[F-].[F-].[Mg++].[Mg++].[Mg++].[Al+3].[Si+4].[Si+4].[Si+4].[K+] Chemical compound [O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[O--].[F-].[F-].[Mg++].[Mg++].[Mg++].[Al+3].[Si+4].[Si+4].[Si+4].[K+] RJDOZRNNYVAULJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 18
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 claims description 17
- -1 polyethylenes Polymers 0.000 claims description 17
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000011159 matrix material Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 230000001795 light effect Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000002736 metal compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 8
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 8
- 235000012222 talc Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052582 BN Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- PZNSFCLAULLKQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Boron nitride Chemical compound N#B PZNSFCLAULLKQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920000168 Microcrystalline cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052618 mica group Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000019813 microcrystalline cellulose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000008108 microcrystalline cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940016286 microcrystalline cellulose Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000010755 mineral Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L Calcium carbonate Chemical compound [Ca+2].[O-]C([O-])=O VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 4
- CSNNHWWHGAXBCP-UHFFFAOYSA-L Magnesium sulfate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[O-][S+2]([O-])([O-])[O-] CSNNHWWHGAXBCP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- TZCXTZWJZNENPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L barium sulfate Chemical compound [Ba+2].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O TZCXTZWJZNENPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004927 clay Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 240000006497 Dianthus caryophyllus Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000009355 Dianthus caryophyllus Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- BPQQTUXANYXVAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Orthosilicate Chemical compound [O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] BPQQTUXANYXVAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940073609 bismuth oxychloride Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910010272 inorganic material Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011147 inorganic material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011368 organic material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000005995 Aluminium silicate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004743 Polypropylene Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004793 Polystyrene Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- YKTSYUJCYHOUJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N [O--].[Al+3].[Al+3].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] Chemical compound [O--].[Al+3].[Al+3].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] YKTSYUJCYHOUJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000012211 aluminium silicate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910000019 calcium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001506 calcium phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910000389 calcium phosphate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000011010 calcium phosphates Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000378 calcium silicate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052918 calcium silicate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- OYACROKNLOSFPA-UHFFFAOYSA-N calcium;dioxido(oxo)silane Chemical compound [Ca+2].[O-][Si]([O-])=O OYACROKNLOSFPA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GXGAKHNRMVGRPK-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimagnesium;dioxido-bis[[oxido(oxo)silyl]oxy]silane Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-][Si](=O)O[Si]([O-])([O-])O[Si]([O-])=O GXGAKHNRMVGRPK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052588 hydroxylapatite Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium carbonate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[O-]C([O-])=O ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001095 magnesium carbonate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910000021 magnesium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000014380 magnesium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000395 magnesium oxide Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium oxide Inorganic materials [Mg]=O CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000391 magnesium silicate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052943 magnesium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019341 magnesium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940099273 magnesium trisilicate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910000386 magnesium trisilicate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019793 magnesium trisilicate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium;oxygen(2-) Chemical compound [O-2].[Mg+2] AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910044991 metal oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000004706 metal oxides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011325 microbead Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxo(oxoalumanyloxy)alumane Chemical compound O=[Al]O[Al]=O TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D pentacalcium;hydroxide;triphosphate Chemical compound [OH-].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002223 polystyrene Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019422 polyvinyl alcohol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000915 polyvinyl chloride Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000004760 silicates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- QORWJWZARLRLPR-UHFFFAOYSA-H tricalcium bis(phosphate) Chemical compound [Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O QORWJWZARLRLPR-UHFFFAOYSA-H 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000014692 zinc oxide Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006225 natural substrate Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 36
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 22
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron oxide Inorganic materials [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 20
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 20
- 235000013980 iron oxide Nutrition 0.000 description 17
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 15
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 14
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 14
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 12
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- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 description 12
- 239000012860 organic pigment Substances 0.000 description 12
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 description 12
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 10
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 10
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 9
- 239000000341 volatile oil Substances 0.000 description 9
- VBMVTYDPPZVILR-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(2+);oxygen(2-) Chemical class [O-2].[Fe+2] VBMVTYDPPZVILR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 8
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229940074047 glyceryl cocoate Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 238000000691 measurement method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 6
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 6
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- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 125000005843 halogen group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- UQEAIHBTYFGYIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexamethyldisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C UQEAIHBTYFGYIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- AIPVRBGBHQDAPX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxy(methyl)silane Chemical compound C[SiH2]O AIPVRBGBHQDAPX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 5
- 229920000193 polymethacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 5
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- SGVYKUFIHHTIFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isobutylhexyl Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)C SGVYKUFIHHTIFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 239000004964 aerogel Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium Chemical compound [Al] XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 description 4
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- 238000003892 spreading Methods 0.000 description 4
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- MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N octyltriethoxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](OCC)(OCC)OCC MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 238000009877 rendering Methods 0.000 description 3
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- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 2
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- JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]=O JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethyltrisiloxane Chemical class C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N (2r,3r,4r,5s)-hexane-1,2,3,4,5,6-hexol;(z)-octadec-9-enoic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- UTPYTEWRMXITIN-YDWXAUTNSA-N 1-methyl-3-[(e)-[(3e)-3-(methylcarbamothioylhydrazinylidene)butan-2-ylidene]amino]thiourea Chemical compound CNC(=S)N\N=C(/C)\C(\C)=N\NC(=S)NC UTPYTEWRMXITIN-YDWXAUTNSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ABEXEQSGABRUHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C ABEXEQSGABRUHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940043268 2,2,4,4,6,8,8-heptamethylnonane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000000094 2-phenylethyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(C([H])=C1[H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- PBFGMXZRJIUGKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-decanoyloxybutyl decanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCC(C)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC PBFGMXZRJIUGKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LFESLSYSZQYEIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-octanoyloxybutyl octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCCC(C)OC(=O)CCCCCCC LFESLSYSZQYEIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PCUXMDACXTVDGR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-methylpentyl 2,2-dimethylpropanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCOC(=O)C(C)(C)C PCUXMDACXTVDGR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
- A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, providing a universal optical correction, that is to say advantageously adapted to all skin tones.
- makeup products in particular complexion products (foundation, complexion powders) are generally proposed through a wide range of shades adapted to the different complexions, and in particular to light, medium or dark skin.
- Patent application FR2858215 of L'Oreal discloses the use of a coloring agent (composite pigment) and a fuzzy filler in emulsions to provide color and camouflage the defects of the skin. by allowing the treated surface to maintain a natural appearance. But these compositions have no light effect and are not suitable for all skin tones (universality). To the knowledge of the Applicant, there is no prior art cosmetic compositions comprising at least one aqueous phase and to obtain an overall corrective effect with a natural appearance and a light rendering, while being adapted to all carnations (criterion of universality), that is to say conferring an optical correction which remains natural of the light skins with the dark skins.
- the foundations of dyes available on the market are generally offered with a wide range of colors, each shade being adapted to a particular complexion.
- a foundation suitable for a given complexion is applied to different skin tones, the color difference grows and can become very important on shades of opposite skin (much brighter or darker than the target shade).
- This color difference ⁇ * 00 measured between the bare skin and the same skin on which said composition is applied may be greater than 20, or even greater than 40, for very different complexions of the shade of the foundation.
- the present invention responds precisely to this need by providing a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, comprising an aqueous phase and at least one combination with an optical correction effect adapted to all skin tones.
- skin comprising:
- composition advantageously allows:
- This immediate optical correction is universal, that is to say adapted to all complexions.
- adapted to the complexion means that the initial complexion (bare skin) is only slightly modified from the point of view of color after application of the composition of the invention on the same skin. Indeed, the color difference ⁇ * 00 measured between the bare skin and the same skin on which the composition of the invention is applied is low, in fact especially less than 20 and even less than 10, and so the skin is optically corrected.
- the color difference between the bare skin and the same skin on which the composition according to the invention is applied is significantly reduced even for dark skin, whereas there were color differences ⁇ * 00 which may be greater than 40 with the foundations known from the prior art, and this with nevertheless a real gain in terms of immediate perfection of the skin. It is therefore possible to produce a single cosmetic composition adapted to the world market. In addition, providing a universal cosmetic composition will also greatly simplify the choice of color for the consumer, compared to the current wide ranges of colors.
- a first object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, comprising an aqueous phase and at least one combination with an optical effect adapted to all skin tones, comprising:
- a composition called “universal” or “universal optical correction” means a composition whose optical correction obtained is adapted to all skin tones, that is to say, to obtain an optical correction that remains natural from light skin to dark skin.
- the universality criterion represents the ability of a formula to be suitable for all skin tones.
- composition is said to be universal if no color difference is observed.
- the criterion of universality of a composition according to the invention is measured according to the in vitro measurement protocol developed and described as follows:
- the formula is spread on a "contrast card” type medium with areas of light beige to dark brown (5 distinct colored areas).
- the spreading is carried out by means of an automatic device (REMATIQUE) and a bar type BIRD, set at a gap of 30 ⁇ " ⁇ .
- the film is dried in a controlled manner for 2 hours at 40 ° C.
- a support adapted to the measurements on fragile film is placed on the film.
- the measurements are carried out using a MA98 multi-angle spectrophotometer (XRITE) placed on the support.
- the measurement conditions are as follows: direct geometry: light source at 45 ° to vertical, measurement angle 0 ° to vertical; source D65; observer 10 °.
- ⁇ * 00 is then calculated between the values obtained with and without cosmetic product for the same background color.
- AE * 00 is as defined by the CIE (Standard ISO / CIE 1 1664-6: 2014)
- the composition according to the invention is characterized by a difference in color ⁇ * ⁇ measured between the bare skin and the same skin on which said composition is applied, less than 20, preferably less than 10, irrespective of the complexion of the skin. the skin for which the color difference ⁇ * 00 is measured.
- Aqueous phase measured between the bare skin and the same skin on which said composition is applied, less than 20, preferably less than 10, irrespective of the complexion of the skin. the skin for which the color difference ⁇ * 00 is measured.
- the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
- water-soluble solvent means a compound which is liquid at room temperature and is miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure).
- glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;
- C 2 -C 3 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof,
- the aqueous phase and the combination of optical correction effect of the invention are present within the same composition.
- the aqueous phase may be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 99% relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the 3 compounds of the optical correction effect association are dispersed in the same phase. According to another particular embodiment, the 3 compounds of the optical correction effect association are dispersed in distinct phases.
- the aqueous phase and the combination of optical correction effect of the invention are packaged in two separate sets.
- the association with optical correction effect is brought into contact with the aqueous phase before application to the skin.
- Another subject of the invention therefore relates to a kit for the cosmetic care of skincare and / or make-up of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin, comprising
- fuzzy fillers, the composite pigments and the reflective particles are as defined below.
- the invention also relates to a process for the extemporaneous preparation of a cosmetic composition according to the invention characterized in that it comprises the extemporaneous mixing of a first composition comprising an aqueous phase with at least one fuzziness filler, at least a composite pigment, and at least one reflecting particle packaged in one or more compositions distinct from the first composition.
- the first composition comprising the aqueous phase and the composition (s) comprising fuzzy fillers, composite pigments, and reflective particles may be packaged in single-dose packages (eg capsules) which the consumer may mix in just before application of the composition produced. Fuzzy fillers
- composition according to the invention comprises at least one blur charge.
- blue effect means an effect that camouflages the microreliefs of the skin and thus makes it possible to attenuate, by optical correction effect, the imperfections of relief and / or color, such as wrinkles and fine lines. , pores and tasks.
- fillers are understood to mean colorless or white particles, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
- the fuzziness fillers used according to the invention are preferably non-composite fillers, distinct from the composite pigments described below.
- silica and silicate powders amorphous silica microspheres, silica micro-beads
- PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
- powders of vegetable origin such as rice powders, cotton powders, silk powders
- the cosmetic composition comprises at least one fuzziness filler selected from the group consisting of: cellulose powders, microcrystalline cellulose powders, starch powders, silica powders or silicates, powders of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), boron nitride powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, hydrophobic silica airgel powders, powders of vegetable origin and their mixtures, preferably still cellulose powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders , crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, hydrophobic silica airgel powders and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof.
- PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
- PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
- the combination of cellulose powders and crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders will be used as blooming fillers.
- the combination of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and hydrophobic silica airgel powders will be used as blooming fillers.
- the fuzziness fillers used according to the invention are chosen from: cellulose powders with irregular contours, such as those marketed by Daito Kasei under the name Cellulobeads USF;
- microcrystalline cellulose powders such as those of INCI name "Microcrystalline Cellulose” marketed by Rettenmaier under the name Vivapur CS 4 FM;
- crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin in particular with silsesquioxane resin, such as the INCI name powders Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate "marketed by Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP-100;
- PMMA powders such as the INCI name powder "methylmetacrylate crosspolymer" of the company Sunjin under the name SUNPMMA-X or MAKIBEADS 150 from the company Daito Kasei;
- fuzzy charges Preferably, the following will be used as fuzzy charges:
- cellulose powders with irregular contours such as those marketed by Daito Kasei under the name Cellulobeads USF;
- crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin in particular with silsesquioxane resin, such as the INCI name powders Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate "marketed by Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP-100;
- PMMA powders such as the INCI name powder "methylmetacrylate crosspolymer" from Sunjin under the name SUNPMMA-X or MAKIBEADS
- fuzzy fillers may advantageously be surface-treated with a hydrophilic or lipophilic organic agent to facilitate their incorporation into one or the other phase of the composition.
- organic agents may be chosen from amino acids; waxes; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids; metal alkoxides; polysaccharides, cellulose and its derivatives; polyethylene; (meth) acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; silicone compounds, for example silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes, alkoxysilanes, alkylsilanes, siloxysilicates; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluoro-silicone compounds.
- the fuzziness fillers comprise or consist of spherical, spherical particles with regular or irregular contours, or platelets, having a median volume size D50 of less than or equal to 25 ⁇ m, especially lower. or equal to 15 ⁇ " ⁇ , in particular less than or equal to ⁇ ⁇ .
- median volume size refers to the dimension given by the statistical half-size distribution of the population, known as the D50 measured by the Malvern-Mastersizer Laser Granulometer.
- a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight filler (s) blur effect, relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the compositions according to the invention may additionally contain additional conventional charges, it being understood that those skilled in the art will take care not to choose fillers whose nature or the quantity in the composition would impact the blooming effect brought by the charges. blur effect.
- additional charges distinct from the aforementioned blur-effect charges, there may be mentioned talcs, natural and synthetic micas, sericite, borosilicates, and mixtures thereof.
- the fuzziness charges are characterized by a fuzziness index ranging from 40 to 100, preferably from 60 to 100, preferably from 70 to 100, measured for example according to the protocol described herein. -Dessous.
- a fuzziness index ranging from 40 to 100, preferably from 60 to 100, preferably from 70 to 100, measured for example according to the protocol described herein. -Dessous. The skilled person will be able, by his knowledge, to define other methods to define this blur index.
- the blur index measurement was developed according to ATSM D1003.
- the fuzziness index is defined here as the proportion of incident radiation which, after passing through the sample, is scattered relative to the total transmitted radiation.
- the effectiveness of the bloom blooming charges is evaluated in vitro by spectrophotometric measurement in transmission of a thin layer of formula.
- the raw materials to be evaluated are previously incorporated in 2% in a cosmetic formula called 'simplex' containing an aqueous phase.
- the formula is spread on a transparent support.
- the spreading is carried out by means of an automatic device (REMATIQUE) and a bar type BIRD, set at a gap of 30 ⁇ " ⁇ .
- REMATIQUE automatic device
- BIRD bar type BIRD
- Tt total transmission
- Td diffuse transmission
- the measurement range is from 400nm to 700nm. The results are integrated in this range.
- the Haze obtained can be between 0 and 100.
- Two cosmetic formulas called simplex are used as a basis for evaluating each raw material:
- the fuzziness charges according to the invention therefore have in particular a fuzziness index ranging from 40 to 100, preferably from 60 to 100, more preferably from 70 to 100, according to the protocol described above.
- Composite pigments preferably from 40 to 100, preferably from 60 to 100, more preferably from 70 to 100, according to the protocol described above.
- composite pigment within the meaning of the invention is meant in particular a pigment comprising a substrate and inorganic and / or organic pigment (s) which are embedded in said substrate.
- said composite pigment is surface-treated and the coating obtained can be continuous or discontinuous.
- the substrate may be a matrix or a core comprising at least one inorganic material and / or at least one organic material.
- the inorganic material of the substrate of said composite pigment may be selected from the group consisting of: mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass or borosilicate flakes, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, titanium oxide , hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, zinc oxide, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminum oxide, aluminum silicate, alumina, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride , kaolin, mineral clay, synthetic clay, and mixtures thereof.
- the composite pigment substrate is silica, borosilicate, alumina, or mixtures thereof.
- the organic material of the substrate of the composite pigment may be chosen from the group consisting of: polymethylmethacrylates (PMMA), polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polysaccharides, cellulose, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl resins, waxes, and mixtures thereof .
- PMMA polymethylmethacrylates
- polyamides silicones
- silicones polyurethanes
- polyethylenes polyethylenes
- polypropylenes polystyrenes
- polysaccharides cellulose
- cellulose polyvinyl alcohols
- polyvinyl resins polyvinyl resins
- waxes waxes
- the composite pigment substrate is comprised of silicone, polyurethane, polymethylmethacrylates (PMMA), cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
- the composite pigment comprises a substrate based on silica.
- the composite pigment comprises a substrate based on polymethylmethacrylates (PMMA).
- PMMA polymethylmethacrylates
- the inorganic pigments of said composite pigment may be chosen in particular from oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium, oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. and their mixtures.
- the inorganic pigments of said composite pigment are chosen from oxides or titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.
- the organic pigments of said composite pigment may be chosen from carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers, in particular based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the organic pigments of said composite pigment are chosen from D & C type pigments, lacquers and mixtures thereof.
- composite pigments result from the encapsulation and / or the incrustation of inorganic or organic pigments in or on substrates or matrices of different natures in order to bring new optical properties to the pigments: in particular to bring a lot of transparency while providing properties floutantes.
- the color obtained in mass with these composite pigments has the same tonality, luminance and saturation as with conventional mineral pigments, with equal weight by weight of raw material, but the coverage can be decreased by more than 50%, thus conferring a true gain concerning the natural effect of products containing them after application to the skin.
- the composite pigments adapted according to the desired effect: a transparency and / or a more or less important perfective effect according to the matrix of said composite pigment, a different compatibility according to the matrix of said composite pigment to favor its incorporation in aqueous, oily or silicone phase.
- the composite pigments according to the invention are in particular chosen from:
- spherical silica particles in which inorganic pigments, in particular oxides and titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof are embedded such as the JGC SPHERICA HC family;
- silicone particles in which are embedded inorganic pigments, in particular oxides and titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof; Polyurethane particles in which inorganic pigments, in particular oxides and titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof are embedded;
- Particles of poly (meth) acrylates in particular of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) in which inorganic pigments, in particular oxides and titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof are inlaid; advantageously, hemispherical particles of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) coated with inorganic pigments of the family of 3D-Tech sold by the company DAITO;
- alumina particles on which inorganic and / or organic pigments are encrusted, and advantageously surface-treated with silicone compounds of the triethoxycaprylylsilane type for better resistance to water and better adhesion to the skin mention may be made, for example, of the composite pigments of the Covalumine AS family marketed by the company Sensient, and their mixtures.
- the composition of the invention comprises at least one composite pigment chosen from spherical silica particles in which inorganic pigments, in particular oxides and titanium dioxide, iron oxides and their mixtures are inlaid; such as the JGC SPHERICA HC family.
- the composition of the invention comprises at least one composite pigment selected from hemispherical polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles coated with inorganic pigments of the family of 3D-Tech sold by DAITO.
- PMMA hemispherical polymethyl methacrylate
- the composite pigments according to the invention will be present in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These% are expressed by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain inorganic and / or organic pigments distinct from the composite pigments, provided that they do not affect the color effect in transparency provided by the aforementioned composite pigments.
- the content of inorganic and / or organic pigments distinct from the composite pigments may range from 0 to 5%, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the composition is devoid of inorganic and / or organic pigments distinct from the composite pigments.
- the composite pigments are characterized by an opacity less than or equal to 75, preferably less than or equal to 60 or even less than or equal to 50, and even more preferably less than or equal to 20, measured in particular according to the protocol developed and described below.
- the opacity of the sample is a ratio between the Y luminances of the sample measured on a black and white background.
- the raw material to be studied is previously dispersed at 2% in a transparent film-forming base.
- This transparent film-forming base is of conventional composition consisting essentially of a film-forming polymer such as nitrocellulose, at least one plasticizing agent and at least one rheological agent solubilized and / or dispersed in a solvent or a mixture of solvent ( butyl acetate and ethyl acetate).
- the formula is spread on a "contrast card” type medium having at least one black zone and one white zone.
- the spreading is carried out by means of an automatic device (REMATIQUE) and a bar type BIRD, set at a gap of 30 ⁇ " ⁇ .
- REMATIQUE automatic device
- bar type BIRD bar type BIRD
- the film is dried in a controlled manner for 2 hours at 40 ° C.
- a support adapted to measurements on fragile film is placed on the map.
- the measurements are carried out using a MA98 multi-angle spectrophotometer (XRITE) placed on the support.
- XRITE multi-angle spectrophotometer
- the measurement conditions are as follows: direct geometry: light source at 45 ° to vertical, measurement angle 0 ° to vertical; source D65; observer 10 °. 2 measurements are made for each sample: A measurement Y fn on the black zone of the card covered with cosmetic product, another measurement Y fb on the white zone of the card covered with cosmetic product. The ratio of the luminances Y obtained is then calculated:
- the opacity can be between 0 and 100.
- the particularly preferred composite pigments in the present invention having an opacity less than or equal to 75, preferably less than or equal to 60 or even less than or equal to 50, are illustrated in Table 3 below:
- reflecting particles multilayer structures comprising a substrate coated with inorganic and / or organic pigments, and the size, structure and physical and chemical nature of the layers and their surface state, allows to reflect the incident light and create highlight points on the skin after application of said composition containing them.
- the reflective particles may have various forms, in particular in the form of platelets or globular, preferably platelets.
- wafer means particles whose ratio of the largest dimension to the thickness is greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10, the thickness generally being between 0.1 ⁇ and 5 ⁇ " Les Reflective particles may be chosen in particular from the group consisting of:
- the reflective particles have a substrate selected from borosilicate, alumina, natural or synthetic mica, aluminum, silica, bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof.
- the reflective particles having a borosilicate substrate, natural or synthetic mica, or alumina will be used.
- the inorganic and / or organic pigments are as described above.
- the reflective particle consists of multilayer platelet structures comprising a substrate of borosilicate, alumina, natural or synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof, coated with inorganic and / or organic pigments, preferably an alumina substrate. or synthetic mica coated with inorganic and / or organic pigments
- a substrate of borosilicate, alumina, natural or synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof coated with inorganic and / or organic pigments, preferably an alumina substrate. or synthetic mica coated with inorganic and / or organic pigments.
- particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with a metal compound, in particular titanium dioxide CI77891, such as those sold under the name Reflecks Dimension Luminous White by BASF;
- particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with a metal compound in particular titanium dioxide CI77891, such as those sold under the name Timiron Halo White by the company Merck; particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with a metal compound, in particular CI77891 and CI77491, such as those sold under the name Syncrystal Soft Peach by the company Eckart;
- particles comprising a substrate of alumina coated with titanium dioxide under the name Spectraflex Focus white by SUN CHEMICAL will be used, particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with a metal compound, in particular titanium dioxide CI77891, such as than those sold under the name Timiron Halo White by the company Merck; and their mixture.
- a combination of particles comprising a substrate of alumina coated with titanium dioxide under the name Spectraflex Focus white by SUN CHEMICAL, particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide under the name Timiron Halo will be used.
- the reflective particles according to the invention generally have a D90 less than or equal to 40 ⁇ - ⁇ , preferably less than or equal to 25 ⁇ - ⁇ , more preferably less than or equal to
- the reflective particles will be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the reflective particles used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are characterized by a diffuse brightness measurement ranging from 1200 to 3000, in particular from 1300 to 2500, measured for example according to the protocol developed and described herein. -after. Those skilled in the art will be able to define other measurement methods enabling them to measure the diffuse brightness of the reflective particles that are suitable for the invention.
- the light effect qualifies the way a product shines.
- the brilliance which corresponds to the specular reflection of a surface, is perceived by the observer as a bright spot. At equivalent intensity, this spot may be greater or less; the brightness is then perceived as intense or diffuse.
- the raw materials to be evaluated are previously incorporated in 2% in a simplex cosmetic formula of O / W emulsion type.
- CONSERVATIVE qsp The formula is spread on a "contrast card” type medium with at least one color zone. The spreading is carried out by means of an automatic device (REMATIQUE) and a bar type BIRD, set at a gap of 30 ⁇ " ⁇ .
- REMATIQUE automatic device
- bar type BIRD bar type BIRD
- the film is dried in a controlled manner for 2 hours at 40 ° C.
- the measurements are carried out by means of a non-contact image acquisition and processing device (Samba, BOSSA NOVA TECH) consisting of a light source, a polarizing camera, a curved support and a processing software.
- Samba non-contact image acquisition and processing device
- the system allows to study the angular distribution of the light energy reflected by the sample.
- the curve of the specular light energy is thus plotted as a function of the measurement angle, it has the appearance of a bell curve.
- the area under the curve is calculated, this value makes it possible to evaluate the light effect of a cosmetic product.
- Reflective particle pigments particularly preferred in the present invention are illustrated in Table 4 below:
- All associations with universal optical correction effect comprising at least one fuzzy charge, a composite pigment and a reflective particle, among the lists of compounds described above in the description and in particular those respectively illustrated in Tables 1 to 4 described previously, are part of the present invention.
- combinations comprising at least three or more compounds, in particular four compounds or five compounds, from those listed above, including at least one fuzzy filler, a composite pigment and a reflective particle, may be mentioned.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the universal optical correction effect association consisting of:
- (iii) at least one reflective particle as defined above in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition comprises the universal optical correction effect association consisting of: (i) at least one fuzziness filler selected from cellulose powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, hydrophobic silica airgel powders, preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least one fuzziness filler selected from cellulose powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, hydrophobic silica airgel powders, preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- At least one reflective particle selected from particles comprising a titanium dioxide-coated synthetic mica substrate, particles comprising a titanium dioxide-coated alumina substrate, preferably at a total content of from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition comprises the combination of universal optical correction effect consisting of:
- inorganic pigments embedded in a silica matrix as composite pigments preferably in a total content ranging from
- the cosmetic composition comprises the combination of universal optical correction effect consisting of:
- inorganic pigments embedded in a matrix of PMMA as composite pigments preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
- the cosmetic composition comprises the combination of universal optical correction effect consisting of:
- PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
- inorganic pigments embedded in a silica matrix as composite pigments preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
- particles having a titanium dioxide-coated alumina substrate as reflective particles preferably in a total content of from 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition may furthermore comprise other additional particles chosen from fillers, pigments, and mixtures thereof, distinct from the blurring fillers, the reflective particles and the aforementioned composite pigments, provided that their presence does not impact the desired effect.
- the composition is devoid of additional particles selected from fillers, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
- the cosmetic composition of the invention is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a water-in-silicone emulsion, a silicone-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel.
- the composition is preferably in the form of an emulsion containing an aqueous phase and an oily phase.
- the aqueous phase generally represents from 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
- the composition is preferably intended to be applied to the face and is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, water-in-silicone emulsion, or an aqueous gel.
- the composition is for example in the form of a care cream, a lotion, a serum or a fluid for the face, a foundation, or a base of complexion, a finisher.
- composition of the invention generally comprises, in addition to the aqueous phase, also an oily phase.
- oil phase means an oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other.
- oil means a fat which is insoluble in water, liquid at 25 ° C. and 0.1 MPa, and preferably non-volatile having a vapor pressure, at 25 ° C. ° C and 0.1 MPa, non-zero less than 2.6 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa.
- An oily phase according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or otherwise, and mixtures thereof.
- oils can be volatile or nonvolatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.
- volatile oil is meant according to the invention a volatile oil defined by at least one of the criteria defined below.
- the volatility may be defined within the scope of the invention for example a vapor pressure measurable by an empirical method at 25 ° C, and whose value will be between 0.13 Pa and 40 000 Pa, for example between 1 Pa and 20 000 Pa, between 10 Pa and 8 000 Pa, or even between 15 and 150 Pa.
- the vapor pressure will be measured according to one of the most suitable methods for the compound of interest, which methods appear in the guidelines of Test No. 104 of the OECD (2006 version).
- a volatile oil having a boiling point at atmospheric pressure of less than 250 ° C., preferably less than 230 ° C. and preferably of between 150 ° C. and 220 ° C., may alternatively be chosen.
- the volatile oil may be further defined as an oil having a flash point ranging from 35 ° C to 100 ° C, preferably from 40 ° C to 80 ° C.
- non-volatile oil means an oil which does not meet the volatility criteria defined above.
- hydrocarbon oil is meant according to the invention an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
- silicon oil is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
- fluorinated oil is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
- volatile hydrocarbon oils mention may be made branched alkanes, C 8 -Ci6, branched esters, C 8 -C 6 and mixtures thereof.
- Silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include linear or cyclic silicone volatile oils and mixtures thereof.
- Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be mentioned include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, Cio-C 40 synthetic ethers, C 10 -C 4 synthetic esters, and C 12 fatty alcohols. -C 2 6, higher fatty acids C 12 -C 2 2, and mixtures thereof.
- Non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include phenyl silicone oils, non-phenyl silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
- the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one C 2 to C 4 alkyl or alkoxy group, during and / or at the end of the chain.
- PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
- silicone phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
- volatile oils which are used in the composition of the invention are preferably volatile silicones or saturated branched chain hydrocarbons.
- the volatile oil may especially be chosen from silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) whose viscosity ranges from 0.5 to 6 cSt and cyclomethicones.
- the volatile oil may be isohexyl neopentanoate or a hydrocarbon such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) or the mixture undecane-tridecane.
- the oils may be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as UV filters, antioxidants, surfactants, gelling agents, preservatives, film-forming polymers, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, for example emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, brighteners, and mixtures thereof.
- cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material a composition as defined above.
- the cosmetic process of the invention is intended to mask in transparency the imperfections of relief and / or color of the skin, while providing a light effect and adapting to all skin tones.
- the present invention also relates to the combination of at least one fuzziness filler, at least one composite pigment, and at least one reflective particle, as defined above, for a universal optical correction whatever the carnation.
- Example 1 Oil-in-water emulsion with global corrective effect
- fuzzy fillers crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate silicone resin marketed by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP100 and cellulose powder CELLULOBEADS USF ,
- composite pigments spherical silica particles in which are encapsulated inorganic pigments, in particular oxides and titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof; such as the SPHERICA HC RW 30 and SPHERICA HC YW30 and SPHERICA HC BW30 and SPHERICA HC WHITE 30 from JGC,
- the particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide CI77891 under the name Timiron Halo White by the company Merck; and particles comprising a titanium dioxide-coated alumina substrate under the name Spectraflex Focus white from SUN CHEMICAL.
- the aqueous phase (water and glycols) is homogenized with stirring (350 rpm);
- the gelling agents are added in the stirring phase (2h, 1500 rpm)
- the aqueous silicone elastomer dispersion (1000 rpm, 15 minutes) is added and neutralized with the sodium hydroxide.
- the previously homogenized oils are added at 40 ° C. (1000 rpm for 15 minutes) the acrylate copolymers (rheological agent) are added 1000 rpm 10 min
- This oil-in-water emulsion has a ⁇ * 00 of less than 10 according to the invention, between 1 (for the lightest skin) and 9 (for the darkest skin) measured according to the aforementioned protocol.
- Example 2 Water-in-oil emulsion with global corrective effect
- MAKIBEADS 150 methylmetacrylate crosspolymer from Daito Kasei and VM-2270 Aerogel hydrophobic silica airgel powder from Dow Corning;
- PMMA polymethyl methacrylate coated with inorganic pigments marketed under the name 3D TECH PW OTS IOR-30 and 3D TECH PW
- the particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide CI77891 under the name Timiron Halo White by Merck; and particles comprising a titanium dioxide-coated alumina substrate under the name Spectraflex Focus white from SUN CHEMICAL.
- a water-in-oil emulsion comprising said combination is prepared according to the following protocol:
- the oily phase comprising the lipophilic oils and gelling agents is passed under Ultra Turrax,
- the combination with an optical correction effect is added at 500 rpm for 10 minutes, the aqueous phase is solubilized under irradiation, the hydrophilic gelling agent premixed in glycerol is added,
- the aqueous phase is gradually added to the oily phase under irradiation and the stirring is gradually increased to 1100 rpm. allowed to stir 15 min at 1100 rpm,
- This water-in-oil emulsion has a ⁇ * 00 of less than 20, or even less than 10, according to the invention, since it is between 2 (for the lightest skins) and 9 (for the heavier skins). dark) measured according to the above protocol.
- Example 3 Aqueous gel with global corrective effect The following combination is used to obtain a universal optical correction effect:
- PMMA powders such as the INCI name powder "methylmetacrylate crosspolymer" of the company Sunjin under the name SUNPMMA-X,
- the particle comprising a substrate of alumina coated with titanium dioxide under the name Spectraflex Focus white of SUN
- aqueous gel comprising said combination is prepared according to the following protocol:
- the aqueous phase is heated to 80 ° C
- the gelling agent is introduced under Raynerie,
- the composite pigments are introduced with stirring,
- the aqueous phase is cooled to 60 ° C.
- the oily phase is heated to 60 ° C. and then introduced into the aqueous phase with vigorous stirring (1000 rpm)
- PMMA POWDERS SUCH AS INCI NAME POWDER
- This aqueous gel has a ⁇ * 00 of less than 20 according to the invention, between 1 (for the lightest skin) and 19 (for the darkest skin) measured according to the aforementioned protocol.
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Abstract
Description
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Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1663472A FR3061004B1 (en) | 2016-12-28 | 2016-12-28 | UNIVERSAL COSMETIC COMPOSITION |
PCT/EP2017/084312 WO2018122150A1 (en) | 2016-12-28 | 2017-12-22 | Cosmetic composition with universal optical correction |
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EP3562462A1 true EP3562462A1 (en) | 2019-11-06 |
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EP17825227.6A Pending EP3562462A1 (en) | 2016-12-28 | 2017-12-22 | Cosmetic composition with universal optical correction |
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US (2) | US20200121567A1 (en) |
EP (1) | EP3562462A1 (en) |
JP (2) | JP7237001B2 (en) |
KR (2) | KR20230169453A (en) |
CN (1) | CN110139637A (en) |
FR (1) | FR3061004B1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2018122150A1 (en) |
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FR3072027B1 (en) * | 2017-10-05 | 2020-03-13 | Chanel Parfums Beaute | COMPOSITION OF MATTE LOOKING LIPSTICK |
JP6985909B2 (en) * | 2017-12-04 | 2021-12-22 | 花王株式会社 | Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic |
EP3972552B1 (en) | 2019-05-21 | 2022-11-02 | Unilever IP Holdings B.V. | Cosmetic compositions for soft-focus |
CN113413355B (en) * | 2021-07-08 | 2022-05-27 | 马应龙大健康有限公司 | Eye cream with instant brightening and wrinkle reducing effects and preparation method thereof |
FR3130606A1 (en) * | 2021-12-21 | 2023-06-23 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a particulate cellulosic compound, particles of hydrophobic silica airgel, and a wax of plant origin |
FR3130608B1 (en) * | 2021-12-21 | 2023-11-24 | Oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a particulate cellulose compound, hydrophobic silica airgel particles, a semi-crystalline polymer and a wax of plant origin |
FR3130605B1 (en) * | 2021-12-21 | 2023-11-24 | Oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a particulate cellulose compound, hydrophobic silica airgel particles, and a semi-crystalline polymer |
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EP0701810B1 (en) * | 1994-09-14 | 2004-11-17 | Shiseido Company Limited | Skin-colour adjusting method, and coloured titanium oxide coated mica used therefor |
FR2795000B1 (en) * | 1999-06-18 | 2001-08-03 | Oreal | SOLID COMPOSITION WITH AQUEOUS CONTINUOUS PHASE COMPRISING A HYDROPHILIC GELLANT AND A PARTICULAR FILLER, USES |
JP4145496B2 (en) | 2000-08-31 | 2008-09-03 | 三好化成株式会社 | New composite powder and cosmetics containing the same |
US6511672B2 (en) | 2001-01-17 | 2003-01-28 | Color Access, Inc. | Compositions containing optical diffusing pigments |
FR2858215B1 (en) | 2003-08-01 | 2006-03-31 | Oreal | COLORLESS COSMETIC COMPOSITION WITH FLOW EFFECT |
AU2005205898B8 (en) * | 2004-01-23 | 2008-05-29 | Unilever Plc | Taurate formulated pigmented cosmetic composition exhibiting radiance with soft focus |
FR2890557B1 (en) * | 2005-09-14 | 2012-07-13 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND PARTICLES CONTAINING AT LEAST ONE COLORED INORGANIC PIGMENT IN A MATRIX, AND USE IN SKIN CARE. |
US7476395B2 (en) * | 2006-04-11 | 2009-01-13 | Conopco, Inc. | Cosmetic composition with soft focus properties |
US20150174048A1 (en) | 2012-06-21 | 2015-06-25 | L'oreal | Pore hiding cosmetic composition comprising a plate type filler, a silicon elastomer and an oil absorbing filler |
-
2016
- 2016-12-28 FR FR1663472A patent/FR3061004B1/en active Active
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2017
- 2017-12-22 WO PCT/EP2017/084312 patent/WO2018122150A1/en unknown
- 2017-12-22 KR KR1020237041642A patent/KR20230169453A/en active Application Filing
- 2017-12-22 EP EP17825227.6A patent/EP3562462A1/en active Pending
- 2017-12-22 JP JP2019535794A patent/JP7237001B2/en active Active
- 2017-12-22 US US16/474,273 patent/US20200121567A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2017-12-22 CN CN201780080431.5A patent/CN110139637A/en active Pending
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JP7273213B2 (en) | 2023-05-12 |
KR20230169453A (en) | 2023-12-15 |
JP7237001B2 (en) | 2023-03-10 |
JP2020503337A (en) | 2020-01-30 |
JP2022071125A (en) | 2022-05-13 |
CN110139637A (en) | 2019-08-16 |
US20240130936A1 (en) | 2024-04-25 |
FR3061004A1 (en) | 2018-06-29 |
KR20190111930A (en) | 2019-10-02 |
KR102610684B1 (en) | 2023-12-06 |
WO2018122150A1 (en) | 2018-07-05 |
FR3061004B1 (en) | 2019-08-16 |
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