FR2861883A1 - Contrast card useful for evaluating cosmetics comprises at least two colored zones corresponding to the average color of at least two facial regions of a panel of individuals - Google Patents

Abstract

Contrast card (10) comprises at least two colored zones (Z1-Z5) corresponding to the average color of at least two facial regions of a panel of individuals. Independent claims are also included for: (1) determining at least one colorimetric characteristic of a composition by coating a contrast card as above with a layer of the composition, measuring the color of zones Z1-Z5, and of a zone (Z6) corresponding to the average color of a body region other than the face, through the support (not defined) and the composition, and determining at least one colorimetric characteristic of the composition as a function of the measured color differences between the zones; (2) producing a contrast card for evaluating at least one colorimetric characteristic of a composition by selecting a panel of individuals having the same skin type and, for each individual, either measuring the color of a body region other than the face and at least one facial region or measuring the color of at least two facial regions, and then calculating the average color for each region and printing the average colors onto a contrast card; (3) producing a composition for application on a given skin type by selecting a colorant using a contrast card as above and preparing the composition with this colorant.

Description

The present invention relates to the cosmetic compositions to be applied

  on the skin and more particularly, but not exclusively, foundation-type compositions intended for dark skin, including black and mixed skin.

  By makeup type composition is meant a makeup composition of human skin. It can be a foundation to apply on the face or neck, a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or makeup base for the face or a makeup composition of the body.

  By dark skin is meant skins whose average L * light measured on the forehead, cheekbones and chin, in the CIE 1976 color space, is less than 55. The saturation C * may be for example between 10 and 30 in particular between 12 and 28. The hue angle values h may be, for example, from about 38 to about 54. The values of clarity L * can be inferior or equal to 50, even 45 or 40 for the darkest skins, while being able to remain for most skins superior to 30. Dark skins are met for example among the African populations, African American, hipano-American, Indian and North African.

  It is known to lighten such skins using products containing whitening active ingredients some of which are relatively aggressive such as hydroquinone and require prolonged treatment to produce a result.

  Another possibility is to use a foundation lighter than his complexion.

  Nevertheless, dark skin has a wide variety of skin tones, which makes it difficult to select the right foundation. In addition, the makeup result may not appear as natural as desirable, with a grayish and dull effect in particular.

  The invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition capable of lightening dark skin while giving a natural makeup.

  The invention thus has, according to one of its aspects among others, a composition of the foundation type, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least one coloring agent, the composition being characterized by the fact that it is suitable, when applied to dark skin, to produce a positive variation in clarity AL * of between 0.5 and 4 and a positive saturation variation AC * of between 0.5 and 4.

  Such variations in clarity L * and saturation C * make it possible to lighten the skin without generating a greyish or dull effect.

  In particular embodiments of the invention, the variations in clarity AL * and saturation AC * are between 0.5 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.5. With such values, the result is particularly satisfactory.

  The composition may also advantageously be capable of producing a negative variation of coxellography index Ai3O, less than or equal to -0.4, preferably less than or equal to -0.5, more preferably less than or equal to -1, for a person having a coxellography index L0> greater than or equal to 5 before makeup. This makes it possible to lighten the skin while making the color of the face more homogeneous. for example to hide hyperpigmented areas, without unduly degrading the natural appearance of the skin.

  By stainless steel coxellography index, the product of the standard deviations a, * x ab * x aL * for all the zones observed is designated, as will be specified in the following.

  Examples of lightening compositions have the following colorimetric characteristics: a brightness L * greater than or equal to 34, a position b * on the blue / yellow axis of between 28 and 42 and a saturation C * of between 31 and 52, better a clarity L * between 34 and 41, a value b * between 33 and 42 and a saturation C * between 37 and 46, such a composition can be used to lighten a skin having a complexion defined by a clarity L * less than 42, in particular between 35 and 42 and a saturation of less than 21, in particular between 13 and 20, a clarity L * greater than or equal to 34, a position b * along the blue / yellow axis of between 23 and 39 and a saturation C * between 27 and 47, better a clarity L * between 34 and 48, a position b * between 27 and 35 and a saturation C * between 31 and 41, - a clarity L * higher or equal to 34, a position b * on the ble axis u / yellow between 19 and 33 and a saturation C * between 23 and 40, in particular a clarity L * between 34 and 42, a position b * between 23 and 29 and a saturation C * between 28 and 35, a brightness L * greater than or equal to 39, a position b * on the blue / yellow axis between 23 and 39 and a saturation C * between 38 and 41, better a clarity L * between 39 and 48, a position b * between 28 and 35 and a saturation C * between 33 and 41, - a clarity L * greater than or equal to 51, a position b * on the blue / yellow axis between 14 and 25 and a saturation C * between 18 and 31, better a clarity L * between 51 and 63, a position b between 14 and 25 and a saturation C between 22 and 28, such a composition can be used to lighten skin with clarity included between 35 and 42 and saturation between 13 and 20.

  The invention further relates, independently or in combination with the foregoing, according to another of its aspects, a foundation-type composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coloring agent and reflective particles, said composition having a hue in the range of colors ranging from rosy beige to orange-brown.

  The invention also relates, independently or in combination with the foregoing, according to another of its aspects, a composition of the foundation type comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coloring agent and reflective particles. said composition having a h tint angle of from 50 to 70 and a saturation C * of from 20 to 50.

  The invention also relates, independently or in combination with the foregoing, according to another of its aspects, a composition of the foundation type comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coloring agent and reflective particles. said composition having a reflectance ranging from 10 to 45% in the range 600 to 680 nm.

  The invention further relates, independently or in combination with the foregoing, according to another of its aspects, a foundation product especially for the makeup of the skin, especially dark skin, comprising at least a first and a second composition, each in a container, the first composition comprising, in a first physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coloring agent and the second composition comprising, in a second physiologically acceptable medium, at least reflective particles.

  The subject of the present invention is also, according to another of its aspects, a process for making up a dark skin, comprising applying to the skin a product with two compositions as defined above. This method may comprise the application of a first layer of one of the two compositions, said base composition and then the application on at least a part of the first layer of a second layer of the other composition, said composition of surface.

  The makeup thus obtained is a bilayer makeup. The order of superposition and / or the superposition mode of the two compositions, namely total or partial, may furthermore confer, if necessary, additional aesthetic effects.

  The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, the use of one of the compositions as defined above for lightening dark skin.

  Another aspect of the invention is a method for marketing a composition for lightening dark skin, which comprises the step of indicating, when the composition is marketed, the color of the skin. skins to which the composition is preferentially intended. Such a process may comprise the presentation, by any means, of the colors of skins to which the composition is intended, for example by the use of a colored indicator on a container or a package containing the composition. It can still be referred to the packaging or the container to an ethnic group in which one frequently finds the type of skin color to which the composition is intended.

  The subject of the invention is also a method in which a colorimetric characteristic of a dark skin is measured, in particular its clarity and / or saturation, and in which a composition adapted to lightening this skin is selected from the measured colorimetric characteristic. , in particular a composition producing variations of clarity and saturation, and possibly of coxellography index, as mentioned above.

  Independently or in combination with the foregoing, the subject of the invention is also a composition of the foundation type comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coloring agent, this composition being characterized by the fact that it is capable of presenting, when it is applied to a contrast card having five zones respectively having for colorimetric coordinates, within 5%: - first zone (Z1): L * = 48.38 a * = 7.99 b * = 3 , 85 second zone (Z2): L * = 46.67 a * = 6.78 b * = 3.25 third zone (Z3): L * = 44, 5 a * = 6, 76 b * = 3.1 fourth zone (Z4): L * = 42.72 a * = 4.12 b * = 2.57 fifth zone (Z5): L * = 44.41 a * = 6.57 b * = 3.93 and a sixth zone (Z6) having for colorimetric coordinates L * = 52,26 a * = 9,11 b * = 5,81, a homogenization power 1 / AEi, foyen between 1/4 and 1, better between 1 / 3 and 1/2, and a covering power 1 / AE2 between 1/25 and 1/7, better between 1/21 and 1/10, the homogenizing and covering views being defined below.

  Compositions having lightening effects adapted to at least one of the complexions may, for example, have: a homogenization power 1 / AE1 of between 1 / 1.6 and 1/2 and a covering power of 1 / AE2 of between 1/12 and 1/15, - a homogenization power 1 / AE1 of between 1 / 1.8 and 1 / 2.2 and a covering power 1 / AE2 of between 1/13 and 1/17, - a homogenization power 1 / AE1 between 1 / 1.6 and 1 / 2.1 and a covering power 1 / AE2 between 1/12 and 1/16, a homogenization power 1 / AE1 between 1 / 2.6 and 1 / 3 and a covering power 1 / AE2 between 1/16 and 1/21, or - a homogenization power 1 / AE1 between 1 / 1.7 and 1 / 2.2 and a covering power 1 / AE2 between 1/9 and 1/13.

  The homogenizing power and the hiding power can be determined while the composition is applied to the board by being deposited with a thickness of 20 m, especially when the composition is liquid at ambient temperature.

  The subject of the invention is also, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a contrast map that can be characterized by the fact that it comprises at least two colored zones respectively corresponding to the average color of at least two regions of the face of a panel of individuals.

  The card may also include another colored area corresponding to the average color of a region of the body located elsewhere than on the face.

  All the colored areas may advantageously be made to have substantially the same color under two different illuminants.

  In a particular embodiment, the card comprises at least three colored zones respectively corresponding to the average color of the forehead, a pocket under the eyes and the region located between the upper lip and the nose of the individuals of the panel. Preferably, the card further comprises two colored areas corresponding to the skin patch color of individuals of the panel.

  The card may further include a white area, see also a black area.

  According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a method for determining at least one colorimetric characteristic of a composition, comprising the following steps: - covering a contrast card as defined above with a layer of a composition, measuring the color of said map areas through the composition, - determining at least one colorimetric characteristic of the composition, in particular the homogenizing power and / or the hiding power, as a function of color differences measured between said areas.

  The composition, especially when it is liquid, can be applied to a transparent support deposited on the card, which makes it possible not to alter it. Such a support may advantageously be adhesive when the composition is powdery.

  According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a method for producing a contrast card making it possible to evaluate at least one colorimetric characteristic of a composition, comprising the following steps: selecting a panel of individuals having the same skin typology: for each individual in the panel, measure the color of at least one region of the body located elsewhere than on the face, measure the color of at least one region of the face, calculate an average color for each region, - reproduce by printing the average colors thus calculated on a contrast map.

  According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a method for producing a contrast card making it possible to evaluate at least one colorimetric characteristic of a composition, comprising the following steps: selecting a panel of individuals having the same skin typology: - for each individual in the panel, ^ measure the color of at least two different regions of the face, calculate an average color for each region, - reproduce by printing the average colors thus calculated on a contrast map.

  For at least one individual of the panel, and preferably for all individuals in the panel, the color of at least three different regions of the face can be measured, including the forehead, the region between the lips and the nose, and the pockets under the eyes. eyes.

  According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a method of manufacturing a composition to be applied to a skin having a given typology, comprising the following steps: selecting at least one coloring agent of the composition using a contrast card as defined above, - manufacture the composition with this coloring agent.

  The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description, non-limiting examples of implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIG. schematically and partially an acquisition device that can be used to perform colorimetric measurements, - Figure 2 schematically shows a face placed in the opening of the sphere of the device of Figure 1, - Figures 3 and 4 represent examples of contrast maps which can be used to determine colorimetric characteristics of compositions for lightening the skin; - Figure 5 schematically shows an example of packaging comprising at least one colored control, and - Figure 6 shows spectra of reflectance of compositions. Measurements of L * and C * (in CIE 1976) Clarity L * and saturation C * can be measured before and after makeup by means of an acquisition device 1 which is shown schematically and partially in Figure 1, having a sphere 2 within which are arranged several sources of white light, not apparent, so that the light gaining its opening 3 is as homogeneous as possible.

  The face of the person whose color is to be measured is placed in this aperture 3 and images are acquired by means of color cameras 4 or digital photography apparatus.

  Prior to the acquisition of the images, the acquisition chain is calibrated by placing reference colorimetric standards in the field of cameras, for example according to the method described in US Pat. No. 6,362,849, the content of which is incorporated herein. request by reference.

  The measurements of the color can be carried out for example on three regions R1, R2 and R3 of the face, namely in the example considered a first region RI located on the front, a second region R2 corresponding to the bags under the eyes and a third R3 region between the nose and the lips.

  The color is measured before makeup on the skin previously cleaned and after makeup, for example 15 minutes after the end of it.

  In the example described, the makeup compositions are liquid foundations applied in the usual manner directly onto the skin, without deposition of a base beforehand, at a rate of approximately 0.5 to 1 mg per cm 2, preferably between 0 , 7 and 0.8 mg / cm 2. Of course, the invention is not limited to compositions in the form of liquids, and also applies to compositions in the form of sticks or free or compact powders. The invention also applies to compositions distributed in the form of a spray.

  Each measurement is performed on an image on which appear the areas whose color is to be determined, the regions R1, R2 or R3 each corresponding for example to more than 100 pixels of the image, for example about 250 pixels. For each pixel, the coordinates L *, a * and b * are determined before and after makeup.

  Calculation of the coxellography index ioX The standard deviation a for each parameter L *, a * and b * can be calculated for all the pixels of the three regions R1, R2 and R3, that is to say by example for about 750 pixels, before and after makeup.

  The coxellographic index ic0 is defined as the product of the three standard deviations aa *, ab * and ai *: iCOX = aa * x ab * x aL * The more the color of the skin is homogeneous, the more the coxellography index ic x is weak.

  By comparing the L * and saturation C * clarity before and after the makeup of the R1, R2 and R3 regions, the makeup could be considered satisfactory when the variations AL * of the clarity and AC * of the saturation were between 0 , 5 and 4, more preferably between 0.5 and 2.5.

  For people whose skin is inhomogeneous and has a coxellography index 5, a homogenization effect could be retained when the application of the makeup resulted in a variation of the coxellography index <-0.4.

  Tests Makeup with compositions A, B, C, Y and Z, whose formulations are detailed below, dark skin.

  The color of each composition A, B, C, Y and Z is given in the following table: Composition L * a * b * C * h () A 37.94 18.58 37.34 41, 71 63.55 B 43.53 20.58 31.07 37.27 56.49 C 56.82 14.96 19.53 24.61 52.54 Y 38.46 13.83 32.12 34.97 66.70 Z 38, 01 17.93 25.88 31.48 55.28 To measure the color of a composition, a color measurement was made in the mass of the product, as follows.

  A metal cup was filled a few centimeters from the side with the composition, the thickness of the latter being of the order of one centimeter. Then a glass slide was applied to the composition taking care to avoid air bubbles under the blade. A color measurement was carried out with a MINOLTA brand CM3700d spectrocolorimeter in reflection mode, specular excluded, UV included, and with a small aperture d / 8.

  Spectral reflectance measurement was also performed in the mass.

  Figure 6 shows the reflectance spectra of compositions A, B, C, Y and Z present in the same cups as above.

  It may be noted that for the wavelength region between 600 and 680 nm, the reflectance is between 10 and 45%, more precisely between 12 and 40%, for the five compositions tested. The reflectance is less than 20% in the range of 450 to 500 nm.

  Composition A has been made up of dark skin having a skin tone defined by a brightness L * of between 35 and 42, a saturation C * of between 13 and 20, a position a * on the red / green axis of between 9 and 15, a position b * on the blue / yellow axis between 13 and 17 and a hue angle value h between 39 and 52.

  For a subject having a brightness of 35.5 and a saturation of 15.3, the brightness and saturation after makeup of 37.6 and 16.5 respectively were measured, that is to say variations of clarity AL * of 2.1 and saturation AC * of 1.2. Other tests have shown that the composition A seemed quite suitable for lightening skin whose L * clarity was less than 42 and the saturation C * less than 21.

  Composition B was applied to a subject having a clarity of 44.4 and a saturation of 19.8. AL * and AC * deviations of 0.8 and 0.6 respectively were measured and a satisfactory result was obtained.

  Composition C is more suitable for dark dark skin, especially those having a clarity of between 36 and 42 and a saturation between 13 and 20.

  It has also been possible to obtain a lightening makeup with the compositions Y and Z. Contrast map To facilitate the development of the compositions making it possible to obtain the desired variations in clarity, saturation and coxellography index, measurements can be made on a panel of individuals before and after makeup, for example by means of the acquisition device described with reference to Figure 1 as described above, but a contrast card can also be advantageously used, as will now be described with reference to Figures 3 and 4.

  In these figures, there are shown contrast cards 10 and 10 'each comprising five colored zones Z1, Z2, Z3, Z4 and Z5, for example rectangular, arranged side by side in the center of a sixth zone Z6 occupying in the examples considered a good part of the bottom of the card.

  The cards 10 and 10 'also comprise a white border Z7 extending around the zone Z6 in the manner of a frame and the card 10' differs from the card 10 only in that it also comprises a zone Black Z8 extending around the white Z7 zone. This black zone Z8 can be used to evaluate with the white zone Z7 the coverage of the composition in a manner similar to that allowed by the usual black / white contrast cards.

  The different zones Z1 to Z7, and Z8 optionally, are preferably made by printing selected inks so that these areas appear for an observer of the same color under at least two different illuminants, for example under at least two of the Illuminants D65, D50 and A. In this respect it will be useful to refer to the European patent application EP 1 212 961, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

  The different zones Z1 to Z6 may correspond to the average colors observed on a panel of individuals having a dark skin, for example a skin belonging to a given type of black skin, for different regions of the face and the body. One can for example consider as being of the same type the skins whose clarity is between 45 and 50 (light dark skin), between 39 and 44 (average dark skin), and lower than 39 (dark dark skin).

  The zones Z 1 to Z 5 can for example correspond respectively to the average color measured on the forehead, the bags under the eyes, the space between the nose and the lips, as well as on facial tasks, especially spots present on the skin. cheeks, and zone Z6 to the color measured on the body, for example the underside of the forearm.

  In the example considered, the zones Z1, Z2, Z3 of the card 10 respectively correspond to the color of the regions R1, R2 and R3 represented in FIG.

  A map 10 was made on which the following values could be measured for each zone: Zone Z1 Z2 Z3 Z4 Z5 Z6 L * 48.38 46.67 44.5 42, 72 44.41 52.26 a * 7, 99 6.78 6.76 4.12 6.57 9.11 b * 3.85 3.25 3.1 2.57 3.93 5.81 Measurements were made with a MINOLTA brand spectrophotometer, reference CM3700d, in reflection mode, specular included, UV included, small aperture d / 8.

  Using such a map, it was possible to characterize the various compositions A, B, C, Y and Z in the following manner.

  Liquid foundation The foundation is placed on a transparent film with a thickness of 20 m, allowed to dry for 10 minutes at 37 ° C in an oven, and this film is superimposed on the contrast card. Through the film thus covered with composition, the color difference AE1 zones Z1 / Z6 is measured between, on the one hand, each zone Z1, Z2, Z3, Z4 and Z5 and, on the other hand, the zone Z6, and then the average deviation AE1 average AE1 mean = (AE1 zones Z1 / Z6 + AE1 zones 72 / Z6 + AEI zones Z3 / Z6 + AE1 zones Z4 / Z6 + AE1 zones Z5 / Z6) / 5 with AE1 zone z / z6 = [a * zi a * z6) 2 + (h * z; b * Z6) 2 + (L * z L * z6) 2] 1/2 for i = 1, 2, ..., 5. We define the power of homogenization by the AElmoyenÉ The color difference AE2 between the zone Z6 and the white border Z7 is also measured and the covering power is defined by 1 / AE2.

  The following results were obtained with compositions A, B, C, Y and Z: Composition ABCYZ AE1 average 1.85 2.80 1.97 2.00 1.88 AE2 13.56 1 8, 73 1 1.11 14.98 13.92 In particular, it is possible, with the use of the contrast map, to select the compositions so as to have a high homogenization power without the hiding power being too high; a high homogenization power can hide skin defects. A hiding power that is not too large can allow the skin to maintain a natural appearance.

  Powders In the case of compacted powders, they are decompacted so as to turn them into free powders.

  The powder is homogeneously deposited on a flat surface and then an adhesive transparent plastic film is applied to the powder at a pressure of 100 g / cm 2, so that the powder sticks to the adhesive and provides an adhesive surface. saturated with powder. The adhesive side loaded with powder is then placed against a transparent glass plate and the assembly is deposited on the contrast card. The color measurements of the different areas of the contrast card are performed as before, through the transparent film loaded with composition. Stick

  The stick can be melted so as to be deposited in the form of a layer 20 m thick on a transparent film. It is allowed to dry for 10 minutes at 37 ° C. in an oven and then the film is applied to the contrast card, as described above. Spray A thickness of 20 m of composition is deposited and allowed to dry for 10 minutes at 37 ° C. in an oven.

  Formulations Described herein will now be described decomposed examples for making lightening compositions, which comprise at least one coloring agent, preferably associated with reflective particles. The lightening compositions may also include fillers. The physiologically acceptable medium may comprise an aqueous phase or a fatty phase. The composition may also comprise at least one surfactant and / or at least one film-forming polymer.

  Coloring agents Coloring agents that are suitable for the invention can produce, alone or as a mixture, a yellow or orange coloring. In other words, they have a significant reflectance in the range 550 to 675 nm.

  The coloring agent (s) may be present in the composition of the foundation type, in particular the base or surface composition of the foundation product of the invention, at a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight. weight, especially ranging from 2% to 20% by weight and in particular from 5 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

  The coloring agent (s) may be chosen from inorganic or organic pigments, coloring polymers, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, organic lakes, metal powders and mixtures thereof. They may especially be chosen from those cited in C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 3rd Edition Cosmetic and fragrance Assn., Inc., Washington D.C. (1982).

  By way of illustration and not limitation of the inorganic coloring agents, mention may be made more particularly of yellow, red, brown metal oxides, such as, for example, iron oxides.

  As metal powders, mention may be made of copper powder.

  Particularly suitable as organic pigments, the pigments FDC Yellow No. 5 (disodium salt tartrazine).

  By way of illustration of the organic lakes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made more particularly of FDC Yellow Nos. 5 and 6 Al Lac.

  The water-soluble dyes may be chosen for example from the brown dye identified by the caramel designation according to the Color Index; the yellow dyes identified by the numbers of Color Index Nos. 10316, 13015, 18690, 18820, 18965, 19140, 45430, 47005 and 75100 and the so-called lactoflavin; orange dyes identified by the numbers of Color Index Nos. 14270, 15510, 15980, 15985, 16230, 20170, 40215; the red dyes identified by the numbers of Color Index No. 14700, 14720, 14815, 15620, 16035, 16185, 16255, 16290, 17200, 18050, 18130, 18736, 24790, 27290, 45100, 45220, 45380, 45405, 45410, 45425 , 45430, 75470 and mixtures thereof.

  The fat-soluble dyes may be chosen for example from the brown dye identified by Color Index No. 12010; the yellow dyes identified respectively by the numbers of Color Index No. 12700, 21230, 47000, 75125, 75135; the orange dyes identified by Color Index Numbers 11920, 40800, 40820, 40825, 40850, 45396, 75120, 75130 and the capasanthine and the red dye identified by 12150 and mixtures thereof.

  The coloring polymer is a polymer comprising at least one organic dye moiety. The dye group may be grafted, in particular by covalent bonding, onto the polymer chain. The coloring polymer generally contains less than 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the polymer, of coloring matter.

  This coloring polymer may be of any chemical nature, in particular polyester, polyamide, polyurethane, polyacrylic, poly (meth) acrylic, polycarbonate, of natural origin such as cellulosic or chitosan polymers, or a mixture thereof, and in particular a polyester or polyurethane.

  In particular, the coloring polymer may be a copolymer based on at least two different monomers, at least one of which is an organic dye monomer.

  Such coloring polymers are especially described in the patents or patent applications US 5,032,670, US 4,999,418, US 5,106,942, US 5,030,708, US 5,102,980, US 5,043,376, US 5,104,913, US 5,281,659, US 5,194,463, US 4,804,719, WO 92/07913 and EP-A-747036.

  By way of illustration of monomers for known dyestuff polymers, there may be mentioned anthraquinones, methines, bis-methines, azamethines, arylidenes, 3H-dibenzo [7,] i isoquinolines, 2,5-diarylaminoterephthalic acids and their esters, phthaloylphenothiazines, phthaloylphenoxazines, phthaloylacridone, anthrapyrimidines, anthrapyrazoles, phthalocyanines, quinophthalones, indophenols, perinones, nitroarylamines, benzodifuran, 2 H-1-benzopyran-2-one, quinophthalones, perylenes, quinacridones, triphenodioxazines, fluoridines, 4-amino-1,8-naphthalimides, thioxanthrones, benzanthrones, indanthrones, indigo, thioindigo, xanthene, acridine, azine and oxazine.

  Those skilled in the art are of course able, by his general knowledge, to make the choice of monomers to adjust the desired color effect according to the invention.

  The coloring agent (s) and in particular the pigments used in the context of the present invention may be used either in their raw form or in a pretreated form, especially at their surface. This treatment generally aims to increase the stability of the color and facilitate their incorporation into the cosmetic formulations. In particular, coloring agents treated to make them hydrophobic will be more easily dispersible in an oily phase.

  As a representative of these surface treatments, mention may be made in particular of treating the pigment with a hydrophobic and oleofuge agent of perfluoroalkyl phosphate derivative type as described in patent EP 1 086 683.

  Similarly, it may be useful to treat the coloring agents and in particular the pigments with a material which makes them compatible with the oily and in particular silicone phases used in the cosmetic formulations. Pigments of this type are described in particular in US Pat. No. 5,143,722.

  According to a particular embodiment, the coloring agents used according to the invention are of yellow, orange, brown or red color.

  By way of illustration of the coloring agents that are more particularly suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned brown iron and yellow iron oxides, coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate, and alumina-treated titanium oxide, coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, such as in particular, the pigment pastes marketed under the trade-names YELLOW IRON OXIDE COVAFLUOR, PF5 YELLOW 601 (yellow) and PF5 R516L (red) by the company DAITO under the trade names FA50DRF, FA50DYF, FA65DF and FA65DBF by the company KOBO, the disodium salts of Tartrazine and the aluminum lakes of Allura red on alumina marketed by NOVEON under the names FDC YELLOW No. 6, Al Laque and FDC YELLOW No. 5 Al Laque and mixtures thereof.

  Reflective Particles For the purposes of the present invention, the term "reflective particles" denotes particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical and chemical natures, and the surface condition, their allow to reflect the incident light. This reflection may, if necessary, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition of the foundation type according to the invention, when the latter is applied to the support to make up, highlight points visible to the eye naked, that is to say brighter points that contrast with their environment while appearing to shine.

  The reflective particles are also selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

  The reflective particles may be present in the composition according to the invention and the base or surface composition of the product according to the invention, at a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight, even from 3% to 10% by weight.

  These particles may have various forms. These particles may in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical.

  Reflective particles of any shape may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, including a reflective material.

  When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, for example synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides.

  When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, these may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metal compound. . The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.

  More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.

  The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metal compound.

  Particles of glass coated with a metal layer are described in particular in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

  Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a metal layer, there may also be mentioned particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver, also called white nacres.

  Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.

  The reflective particles, irrespective of their shape, may also be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal compound, in particular a metal oxide chosen, for example, from titanium oxides. , in particular TiO2, iron, in particular Fe2O3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following compounds: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2 , Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2 and mixtures or alloys thereof.

  By way of example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or particles of coated glass of brown iron oxide, of titanium oxide, of tin oxide or a mixture thereof such as those sold under the trade name REFLECKS by ENGELHARD.

  The reflective particles may or may not be goniochromatic and / or interferential or not. For the purposes of the invention, they include nacres and goniochromatic coloring agents.

  By nacres, it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

  The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye. especially of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

  The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

  As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

  It is also conceivable to use as a reflective particles a goniochromatic coloring agent, provided that this agent satisfies the required color-effect requirement according to the invention and does not disturb, moreover, the visual perception of the composition in terms of color effect. This goniochromatic coloring agent may in particular be chosen from interferential multilayer structures.

  Charges As mentioned above, the presence of reflective particles in a sufficient proportion to ensure a charging function makes it possible to significantly reduce the quantity or even to avoid the presence of conventional white particle type charge (s).

  In this case, the foundation compositions according to the invention may contain less than 5% or even 3% by weight of white particles and in particular of titanium oxide, or may be free of titanium oxide.

  Of course, it remains possible to associate with the reflective particles according to the invention one or more other conventional charges provided that they are used in an amount such that they do not affect the aesthetic effect sought by the compositions foundation type claimed, that is to say do not overly give a grayish appearance to the makeup skin when it is coated with a composition according to the invention. The man of the art is able, by his knowledge, to make this adjustment.

  These fillers can be mineral or organic of any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, regardless of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders (Orgasole from Atochem), poly- (3-alanine and polyethylene), tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancele (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap Dow Corning) or polymethyl methacrylate (Wackherr's Covabead), silicone resin microbeads (eg Toshiba's Tospearls), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate and mixtures thereof.

  It may be advantageous to favor the choice of complementary, transparent fillers, such as, for example, fumed silica.

  This or these fillers may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, and better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the base type. dyed, especially base or surface compositions of the foundation product.

  Physiologically acceptable medium Physiologically acceptable medium means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin of human beings. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the skin on which the composition of the foundation type is to be applied, as well as to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged, in particular fluid at ambient temperature and under pressure. atmospheric.

  As specified above, the foundation composition according to the invention, in particular the base and / or surface compositions of the foundation product of the invention, may be formulated in a fluid or solid form of the powder type. , free, compact or cast.

  They may in particular, independently of one another, be in an anhydrous form or in the form of a gel, direct, inverse or multiple emulsion combining at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty phase.

  Aqueous Phase The composition of the foundation type according to the invention, in particular the base composition and / or the surface composition of the foundation product of the invention, may comprise at least one aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase. which can form the continuous phase of the composition of the type of foundation considered.

  The aqueous phase can consist essentially of water.

  It may also comprise a mixture of water and of a water-miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.), such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones. and C2-C4 aldehydes.

  The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible organic solvent) may be present at a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, in particular ranging from 3% to 80% by weight, and in particular ranging from % to 60%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

  Such a medium may further comprise a volatile oil as defined below.

  Fatty phase The composition of the foundation type according to the invention, in particular the base composition and / or the surface composition of the foundation-type product according to the invention, may comprise a fatty phase and especially at least one fatty substance. liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and / or a fatty substance solid at room temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures. The fatty phase may further contain lipophilic organic solvents.

  The foundation composition may for example have a continuous fat phase, which may contain less than 5% water, especially less than 1% water relative to its total weight and in particular be in anhydrous form.

  The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may in particular comprise, as liquid fatty substance, at least one volatile or non-volatile oil or a mixture thereof.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.01 to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa). at 40,000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mm Hg (30 Pa).

  By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

  These volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms.

  The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell. can also be used.

  As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

  The volatile oil may be present in a composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1 to 98% by weight, especially from 1% to 65% by weight, and in particular from 2% to 50% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from non-volatile fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils.

  Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varied from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond oil , palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R 2 is 10, for example oil of purcellin (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

  The non-volatile oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 85% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 70% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition. More generally, the liquid fatty substance may be present at a rate of 0,

  01 to 90% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 85% by weight, relative to the weight of the fatty phase.

  Regarding the solid fat at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, it may be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. This solid fatty substance may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 50%, especially from 0.1 to 40% and in particular from 0.2 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

  Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty fatty compound at room temperature.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" means fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 ° to 55 ° C., preferably 25 ° to 45 ° C., and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 ° C. at 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured with Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz. The skilled person can choose the mobile for measuring the viscosity, among the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.

  Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon compounds and / or silicone. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, use is preferably made of hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups), in majority proportion.

  Among the pasty compounds that may be used in the composition of the foundation type according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolines, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity. from 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C. and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about 20 to 35 ° C. and / or viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. $) Such as tri-isostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; esters of cholesterol such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof. As triglyceride of plant origin, the hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as Rheox's THIXINR, can be used.

  Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) of high molecular weight and in particular those having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20- C, such as stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503a and DC25514e, and mixtures thereof.

  The pasty fatty substance may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 45% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.2% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

  The composition of the foundation type according to the invention, in particular the base composition and / or the surface composition of the foundation product of the invention, may further comprise a wax. The wax may be solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than 30 ° C., up to 200 ° C., a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. It can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. It may be chosen for example from beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, silicone waxes, microcrystalline waxes, and mixtures thereof.

  In particular, the wax may be present in the form of a water-in-water emulsion. The wax may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and especially from 0.2% to 20% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Surfactants The composition of the foundation type according to the invention, in particular the base composition and / or the surface composition of the foundation product of the invention, may further contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  These surfactants may be chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants. Reference can be made to the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, Volume 22, p.333-43, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p.347 -377 of this reference, for anionic and nonionic surfactants.

  The surfactants preferably used in the composition of the foundation type according to the invention are chosen: - from the nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohols, sucrose fatty acid esters, alkyl glucose esters, in particular polyoxyethylenated C1-C6 alkyl glucose fatty esters, and mixtures thereof; - among the anionic surfactants: C16-C30 fatty acids neutralized by the amines, ammonia or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof.

  Surfactants are preferably used to obtain an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion.

  Film-forming Polymer The foundation-type composition according to the invention, in particular the base composition and / or the surface composition of the foundation-type product according to the invention, may comprise, in addition, at least one film-forming polymer.

  In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on the skin.

  A film-forming polymer capable of forming a hydrophobic film, that is to say a polymer whose film has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. of less than 1% by weight, is preferably used.

  The film-forming polymer may in particular be at least one polymer chosen from the group comprising: water-soluble film-forming polymers, aqueous dispersions of particles of water-dispersible film-forming polymers, also called latices; in this case, the foundation composition must comprise an aqueous phase, liposoluble film-forming polymers, lipodispersible film-forming polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions of polymeric particles, where appropriate. stabilized at their surface by at least one stabilizing agent, in one or more silicone and / or hydrocarbon oils; these non-aqueous dispersions are still called NAD.

  The foundation composition may comprise a mixture of these polymers in parallel.

  The film-forming polymer may be present in a composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight. weight.

  Among the film-forming polymers that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.

  By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

  The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

  The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

  As monomer carrying an acid group, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid may be used. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

  The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

  Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

  Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

  Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

  Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are the alkyl (meth) acrylates.

  According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

  Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-tert-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

  The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

  Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

  Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

  It is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with a silicone chain).

  Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

  The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, poly-urethanespolyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

  The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

  In a first exemplary embodiment of the foundation composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

  As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90, NEOCRYL A-1070, NEOCRYL A-1090 ", NEOCRYL BT-62, NEOCRYL A-10790, NEOCRYL A-523 by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432 by the company DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO, or even the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names NEOREZ R-981, NEOREZ R-974 by the company AVECIANEORESINS, the AVALURE UR-405, AVALURE UR-410, AVALURE UR-425, AVALURE UR-450 20, SANCURE 875, SANCURE 861, SANCURE 878, SANCURE 2060 by the company GOODRICH, IMPRANIL 85 by the company BAYER, AQUAMERE H-1511 by the company HYDROMER.

  As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is also possible to use the polymer dispersions resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called hybrid polymers.

  In a second embodiment of the composition of the foundation type according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition in solubilized form. Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulphates, and mixtures thereof.

  According to another alternative embodiment of the composition of the foundation type according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be present in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described above. For the purposes of the invention, the term "liquid fatty phase" means a fatty phase that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), composed of one or more fatty substances. liquids at room temperature, also called oils, generally compatible with each other.

  Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils may be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

  In a third embodiment of the foundation composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be present in the form of surface-stabilized particles dispersed in the liquid fatty phase.

  The dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles can be manufactured as described in EP-A-749747.

  The polymer particles are surface stabilized by a stabilizer which may be a block polymer, a graft polymer, and / or a random polymer, alone or in admixture.

  Dispersions of film-forming polymer in the liquid fatty phase, in the presence of stabilizing agents, are described in particular in documents EP-A-749746, EP-A-923928 and EP-A-930060, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. in this application.

  The size of the polymer particles in dispersion either in the aqueous phase or in the liquid fatty phase may range from 5 nm to 600 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 300 nm.

  In a fourth embodiment of the foundation composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be solubilized in the liquid fatty phase, it is said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer.

  As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group).

  These copolymers may be crosslinked by means of crosslinking agents whose purpose may be either of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

  Examples of such copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate of vinyl vinyl / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2 vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl allyl propionate / stearate vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyl oxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate cross-linked with 0 2% divinyl benzene.

  Liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, may also be mentioned as liposoluble film-forming polymers, the alkyl radicals having more or less 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

  Such liposoluble homopolymers may be chosen from vinyl polystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, polyvinylate, poly ( meth) acrylate, these poly (meth) acrylates being crosslinkable with dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol.

  The liposoluble copolymers and homopolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

  Liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyalkylenes, and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical. such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 alkene and better still of C3 to C2 (by way of example of a copolymer of VP that can be used in the invention includes the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene , VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a film-forming agent may be chosen from all the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular be chosen from plasticizers and coalescing agents.

  The composition or the foundation-type product of the invention is generally in the form of a foundation, in particular to be applied to the face or neck, of a concealer, of a complexion concealer. , a tinted cream or makeup base for the face or a makeup composition for the body.

  The foundation composition of the invention, in particular the base composition and / or the surface composition of the foundation product of the invention, may be in a solid form, for example powdery, compacted or casting or stick form or in the form of a fluid for example pasty or liquid. It can also be in the form of a soft paste, an ointment, a solid or fluid ointment cream type. For example, it may be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a gel that is in particular anhydrous, solid or flexible and even in biphasic form. According to this variant, it is more particularly in the form of an oily and particularly anhydrous continuous phase foundation; in this case, it may contain an aqueous phase at a rate of less than 5%.

  In the case of the product according to the invention, the two corresponding compositions may be in identical or different forms and, in particular, in accordance with the foregoing.

  The foundation composition according to the invention, in particular the base composition and / or the surface composition of the foundation product according to the invention, can be manufactured by the known methods generally used in the field of the invention. cosmetic.

  Examples of formulations of lightening compositions are given below.

The proportions are mass.

  Composition A - polymethylcetyldimethylmethylsiloxane oxyethylenated (ABIL EM 90 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.80% - polyglyceryl iso-stearate (4 moles) (ISOLAN GI 34 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.60% - hexyl laurate 0.60% oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 70 Viscosity: 500 CST) (KF-6017 from the company Shin Etsu Silicones) 4.48% - isoeicosane (PERMETHYL 102 A from PERMETHYL) 2% - polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 CST) (FLUID 200 5 CS of Dow Corning) 2% - iso-stearyl neopentanoate 0.50% - cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 8% cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 11.36% - iso-dodecane 13% D, L-alpha-tocopherol (VITAMIN E) 0.08% hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (BENTONE 38V from the company ELEMENTIS) 1.60% - yellow iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate dispersed at 50% by weight in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethicone copolyol (CI: 77492) (FA50DYF from KOBO) 1.86 - oxy of brown iron coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate dispersed at 50% by weight in cyclomethicone / dimethylpolysiloxane copolyol (Cl: 77491) (FA50DRF from KOBO) 0.72% black iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate in dispersion with 65% by weight in cyclomethicone / dimethyl polysiloxane copolyol (CI: 77499) (FA65DBF from KOBO) 0.34% - alumina treated titanium oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate in a 65% by weight dispersion in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethiconecopolyol (CI 77891) (FA65DF from KOBO) 7.39% - hollow microspheres of polymethyl methacrylate (particle size: 10 to 12 microns), (COVABEAD LH 85 from WACKHERR) 4% - butylene glycol-1,3 10% - chloride of sodium 0.70% - preservatives 0.90% - brown iron mica-oxide (60/40) (CI: 77019 + 77491) (COLORONA PASSION ORANGE of the company MERCK) 2% - di-sodium salt of tartrazine ( Cl: 19140) (FD & C YELLOW 5 from LCW) 2% - water quantity sufficient for (qs) 100% Composition B This is a foundation particularly suitable for light dark skin, its formulation is the following: oxyethylenated polymethylcetyldimethylmethylsiloxane (ABIL EM 90 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.80 % - polyglyceryl iso-stearate (4 moles) (ISOLAN GI 34 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.60% - 0.66% hexyl laurate - oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 70 Viscosity: 500 CST) (KF-6017 from the company SHIN ETSU SILICONES) 4.48% - isoicosane (PERMETHYL 102A from PERMETHYL) 2% - polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 CST) (FLUID 200 5 CS from the company Dow Corning) iso-stearyl neopentanoate cyclohexadimethylsiloxane cyclopentadimethylsiloxane - iso-dodecane D, L-alpha-tocopherol (VITAMIN E) - hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (BENTONE 38V from ELEMENTIS) 1.60% - yellow iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate and n dispersion at% by weight in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethicone copolyol (Cl: 77492) (FA50DYF from KOBO) 6.90% - bismuth mica-oxychloride-brown iron oxide (47/28/25) (CHROMA LITE BROWN the company ENGELHARD) 6,81% - Allura red aluminum lacquer on alumina (40/60) (FD & C Red 40 Al lake of the company NOVEON) 0,60% - hollow microspheres of polymethyl methacrylate (particle size: 10 to 12 microns), (COVABEAD LH 85 from the company WACKHERR) 4% - butyleneglycol-I, 3 10% sodium chloride 0.70% preservatives 0.90% - water qs 100% Composition C This composition is particularly suitable for black skin its formulation is the following: - polymethylcetyldimethylmethylsiloxane oxyethylene (ABIL EM 90 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.80% - polyglyceryl iso-stearate (4 moles) 0.60% (ISOLAN GI 34 from GOLDSCHMIDT) hexyl laurate 0.60% - oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 70 Viscosity: 500 CST) (KF-6017 from the company SHIN ETSU SILICONES) 4.48% isoicosane (PERMETHYL 102A) 2% - polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 CST) (FLUID 200 5 CS from the company Dow Corning) 2% - iso-stearyl neopentanoate 0.50% cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 8% cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 11.36% iso-dodecane 13% D, L-alpha-tocopherol (VITAMIN E) hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (BENTONE 38V from ELEMENTIS) iron oxide yellow coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate dispersed at 50% by weight in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethicone copolyol (CI: 77492) (FA50DYF from the company KOBO) 1.86% - brown iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate in a 50% dispersion weight in cyclomethicone / dimethyl polysiloxane copolyol (CI: 77491) (FA50DRF from KOBO) 0.72% black iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate in a 65% by weight dispersion in cyclomethicone / dimethyl polysiloxane copolyol (CI: 77499) (F A65DBF from KOBO) 0.34% - alumina treated alumina oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate dispersed at 65 wt.% In decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / imethiconecopolyol (CI 77891) (FA65DF from KOBO) 7.39% - microspheres hollow polymethyl methacrylate (particle size: 10 to 12 microns), (COVABEAD LH 85 from WACKHERR) 4% - 1,3-butylene glycol-10% - sodium chloride 0.70% - preservatives 0.90% - silica brown iron oxide (XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER from MERCK) 4% - water qs 100% Composition D This is a foundation composition that is particularly suitable for black skin, and its formulation is as follows: oxyethylenated polymethylcetyldimethylmethylsiloxane (ABIL EM 90 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.80 glycerol iso-stearate of polyglycerol (4 moles) (ISOLAN GI 34 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.60% hexyl laurate 0.60% oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 70 Viscosity: 500 CST ) 0.08% 1.60% (KF-6017 from the company SHIN ETSU SILICONES) 4.48% - isoicosane (PERMETHYL 102A) 2% - polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 CST) (FLUID 200 5 CS from the company Dow Corning) 2 - iso-stearyl neopentanoate 0.50% cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 8% - cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 11.36% iso-dodecane 13% - D, L-alpha-tocopherol (VITAMIN E) 0.08% - hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (BENTONE 38V from the company ELEMENTIS) 1 60% - yellow iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate in a 50% by weight dispersion in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethicone copolyol (Cl: 77492) (FA50DYF from the company Kobo) 5.25% - brown iron oxide coated with sodium phosphate perfluoroalkyl dispersed at 50% by weight in cyclomethicone / dimethyl polysiloxane copolyol (Cl: 77491) (FA50DRF from KOBO) 0.72% black iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate in dispersion at 65% by weight in cyclomethicone / dimethyl polysiloxane copolyol (CI: 77491) (FA65DBF from KOBO) 0.34% - alumina-treated titanium oxide coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate dispersed at 65% by weight in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethiconecopolyol (Cl 77891) (FA65DF from KOBO) 4% - microspheres hollow polymethyl methacrylate (particle size: 10 to 12 microns), (COVABLEAD LH 85 from WACKHERR) 4% - 1,3-butylene glycol-10% - sodium chloride 0.70% - silica-brown iron oxide (XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER from MERCK) 4% - preservatives 0.90% - water qs 100% Composition E This is a black skin stick, its formulation is as follows: - polyethylene wax (MW: 500) ( BARECO Polywax 500) 4% - homopolymer of ethylene (Melting point: 79.5 C) (PERFORMALENE 400 of NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGY) 8% cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 5% cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 20% iso-dodecane 19% - phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane (viscosity : 20 CST MW: 372) (DOW CORNING DC556) 19% - hollow microspheres of polymethylmethacrylate (particle size: 10 to 12 microns) (COVABLAD LH85 from WACKHERR) 10% - brown iron mica-oxide (94/6) (Cl: 77019 + 77491) (COSMETICA ORANGE from ENGELHARD) 12 - oxide of yellow iron coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate in dispersion at 50% by weight in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethicone copolyol (CI: 77492) (FA50DYF from the company Kobo) 3% Composition F This is a fluid foundation for black skin . Its formulation is as follows: cetyl polyethylene glycol / PPG 10/1 dimethicone (ABIL EM 90) 0.80% - 4-polyglyceryl isosterate (ISOLAN GI34 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0, 60% - hexyl laurate 0 , 60% PEG-10 dimethicone (KF6017) 4.48% - isoicosane (PERMETHYL 102A) 2% - dimethicone (DC 200 FLUID) 2% - isostearyl neopentanoate 0.50% - cyclohexasiloxane 8% - cyclopentasiloxane 11.36% isododecane 13% - D, L-alpha-tocopherol (VITAMIN E) 0.08% - hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (BENTONE 38V from the company ELEMENTIS) 1.6% - iron oxides and cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone and C, to C15 fluoroalcohol phosphates (KOBO FA5ODYF) 4.73% - iron oxides and cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone and C9-C fluoroalcohol phosphates, (KOBO FA50DRF) 2.595% - iron oxides and cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone and C9 to C5 fluoroalcohol phosphates (KOBO FA65DBF) 1.22% - titanium dioxide and cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone and C9 to C5 fluoroalcohol phosphates and alumina (KOBO FA65DF) 1.765% polymethylmethacrylate (COVABEAD LH 85) 4% butylene glycol 10% - sodium chloride 0.70 - preservatives 0.90% - mica and iron oxides (COLORONA PASSION ORANGE from MERCK) 2% lake yellow 6 (pigments: FDC YELLOW 6 Al SUN CHEMICAL LAKE) (CI15985) 2% - water qs 100% Composition Y It is a foundation especially for dark skin, its formulation is as follows: - polymethylcétyldiméthylméthylsiloxane oxyethylenated (ABIL EM 90 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.80% - iso-stearate of polyglycerol (4 moles) (ISOLAN GI 34 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.60% - 0.66% hexyl laurate - oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 70 Viscosity: 500 CST) (KF-6017 from the company Shin Etsu Silicones 4.48% - isoeicosane PERMETHYL 102 A PERMETHYL 2% - polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 CS T) (FLUID 200 5 CST from Dow Corning) 2% iso stearyl neopentanoate 0.5% cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 8% cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 1 1.3% iso-dodecane 13% D, L-alpha-tocopherol (VITAMIN E) 0.08% - hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (BENTONE 38V from the company ELEMENTIS) 1.60% - yellow iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate in dispersion at 50% by weight in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethicone copolyol (CI: 77492) (FA50DYF from KOBO) 10.93% - brown iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate in dispersion at 50% by weight in cyclomethicone / dimethyl polysiloxane copolyol (CI: 77491) (FA50DRF from KOBO 2.15% hollow microspheres of polymethyl methacrylate (particle size: 10 to 12 microns), (COVABEAD LH 85 from the company WACKHERR) 4% - mica-ferric blue sold under the name MICRONA MATTE BLUE by the company MERCK 1.23 % - Butylene Glycol-1.3 10% - ch sodium chloride 0.70% preservatives 0.90% - water qs 100% Composition Z This is a foundation for dark skin.

  oxyethylenated polymethylcetyldimethylmethylsiloxane (ABIL EM 90 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.80% - polyglycerol iso-stearate (4 moles) (ISOLAN GI 34 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.60% - hexyl laurate 0.60% - polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated (DP: 70 Viscosity: 500 CST) (KF-6017 from SHIN ETSU SILICONES) 4.70% - isoeicosane PERMETHYL 102 A from PERMETHYL 2% - polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 CST) (FLUID 200 5 CST from the company Dow Corning) 2% Isostearyl isopearanate 0.50% Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 8.4% - Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 11.90% Iso-dodecane 13.60% - D, L-alpha-tocopherol (VITAMIN E) 0.08% Hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (BENTONE 38V from the company ELEMENTIS) 1.67% - yellow iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate in dispersion at% by weight in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethicone copolyol (CI: 77492) (FA50DYF) from the company KOBO) 4.73% - iron oxide br a mixture of perfluoroalkyl phosphate dispersed in% by weight in cyclomethicone / dimethyl polysiloxane copolyol (Cl: 77491) (FA50DRF from Kobo) 2.60% black iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate in dispersion at 65% by weight in cyclomethicone / dimethyl polysiloxane copolyol (CI: 77499) (FA65DBF from KOBO) 1.20% - alumina treated titanium oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate in a 65% by weight dispersion in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane / dimethicone copolyol (CI 77891) ( FA65DF from KOBO) 1.20% Colored indicator It is advantageous to have a package containing the composition, for example a cardboard case containing a container filled with the composition or the container itself, with a colored indicator for allow the consumer to determine at the point of sale if the composition is adapted to his complexion.

  hollow microspheres of polymethyl methacrylate (particle size: 10 to 12 microns), (COVABEAD LH 85 from WACKHERR) 4% butylene glycol-1, 3 10% - sodium chloride 0.70% preservatives 0.90% - water qs 100% The colored indicator 20 may for example comprise one or more colored areas 21, 22 and 23 mimicking one or more medium skin colors for which the composition is particularly suitable, for example dark dark, medium dark or dark dark skin.

  At least one of the zones 21, 22 and 23 may, for example, have a brightness of between 30 and 55, a saturation C * of between 10 and 30, in particular between 12 and 28, and a hue angle value h inclusive of between 38 and 54.

  One can also provide at the point of sale a system comprising a sensor, this system being arranged on the one hand to measure at least the clarity of the skin, and preferably also its saturation, and on the other hand to provide a relative advice. at the choice of the composition for lightening the skin. The system may in particular be arranged to recommend at least one composition making it possible to obtain variations of clarity AL and of saturation AC, taking into account the clarity L * and saturation C * of the skin to be made up, such that 0, AL * 4, preferably 0.5 AL * <2.5 and 0.5 AC * 4, preferably 0.5 AC * 2.5.

  Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase having one must be understood to be synonymous with at least one, unless the opposite is specified.

  The expression between must be understood included limits, unless the opposite is specified.

Claims (12)

  1. Contrast map comprising at least two colored zones (Z1, Z2, Z3, Z4, Z5) respectively corresponding to the average color of at least two regions (R1, R2, R3) of the face of a panel of individuals .   2. Card according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises another colored zone (Z6) corresponding to the average color of a region of the body located elsewhere than on the face.   3. Card according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colored areas (Z1, Z2, Z3, Z4, Z5, Z6) are made to have substantially the same color under two distinct illuminants.   4. Card according to any one of claims 1 and 3, characterized in that it comprises at least three colored areas (Zl, Z2, Z3) respectively corresponding to the average color of the front (RI), a pocket under the eyes (R2) and the region between the upper lip and the nose (R3) of the individuals of the panel.   5. Card according to claim 4, characterized in that it further comprises two color zones (Z4, Z5) corresponding to the skin patch color of the individuals of the panel.   6. Card according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it further comprises a white zone (Z7).   7. Card according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises a black zone (Z8).   8. A method for determining at least one colorimetric characteristic of a composition, comprising the following steps: - covering a contrast card (10; 10 ') as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7 with a layer of d a composition, - measuring the color of said zones (Z1, Z2, ..., Z6) of the card through the support and the composition, - determining at least one colorimetric characteristic of the composition (1 / AE,; 1 / AE2) as a function of color deviations measured between said zones.   9. The method of claim 8, characterized in that the composition is applied to a transparent support deposited on the card.   10. A method for producing a contrast card (10; 10 ') for evaluating at least one colorimetric characteristic of a composition, comprising the following steps: - selecting a panel of individuals having the same skin typology: -for each individual of the panel, to measure the color of at least one region of the body located elsewhere than on the face, to measure the color of at least one region (R1, R2, R3) of the face, or to measure the color of the 'at least two regions of the face, - calculate an average color for each region, - reproduce by printing the average colors thus calculated on a contrast map.   11. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that for at least one individual of the panel the color of at least three different regions (R1, R2, R3) of the face is measured, in particular the forehead, the region between the lips. and the nose and puffiness under the eyes.   12. A process for producing a composition for application to a skin having a given typology, comprising the following steps: selecting at least one coloring agent of the composition by using a contrast card as defined in any one of the claims. 1-7, - manufacture the composition with this coloring agent.