FR2872032A1 - Composition, useful as e.g. make-up foundation and anti dark circle product, comprises solid particles of a material, a liquid binder, and at least a dye to confer a color on the composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition (I) for skin make-up, comprises solid particles of a material (having a refraction index of 1.2-1.45), a liquid binder (having a refraction index of 1.2-1.6), and at least a dye to confer a color on (I) such that an angle of hue of (I) is 40-70[deg]C and a saturation C*> is 20-50. Independent claims are also included for: (1) composition for skin make-up comprising particles of cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomer, water and at least a dye; (solid) composition for skin make-up comprising, cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomer particles (at least 20 wt.%) and at least a dye, in a medium; (2) process of make-up of a dark skin comprising the application of (I) on the skin; and (3) method to enlighten a dark skin comprising the application of (I) on the skin.

Description

The present invention relates to a makeup composition of the

  skin, especially dark skin, comprising solid particles and particular coloring matter. The subject of the invention is also a process for making up the dark skin of a human being, comprising applying the composition

on the skin.

  The makeup composition of the skin may be a product of the complexion (especially a foundation), a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or makeup base for the face, a body makeup product. More specifically, the invention relates to a makeup composition of the complexion, foundation.

  In general, this type of composition contains, in addition to a fatty phase such as wax or oil, mineral or organic fillers and coloring agents.

  The coloring agents are used as an opacifier and / or dye and are present in a concentration sufficient to provide the desired color. As regards the fillers, they are conventionally used to modify the rheology, to adjust the texture of the composition, to reduce the gloss and / or as a matting agent to hide the skin defects of the surface to be made up.

  The fillers usually used are particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic and insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. It is generally silica, mica, talc, kaolin and more particularly titanium oxides. These fillers are conventionally used in a proportion of 1 to 80% and especially 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

  However, in the case of compositions of the foundation type intended more particularly for so-called dark and especially black skin, the presence of these white particles may be detrimental to the desired aesthetic effect. Indeed, these white particles may, in certain circumstances, particularly related to their proportion within the composition and / or the color of the skin, generate a greyish colored effect at the level of the makeup skin. For obvious aesthetic reasons, such an effect is particularly undesirable.

  The present invention aims precisely to provide makeup compositions for the skin, especially foundation, free of this side effect and more particularly suitable for the makeup of dark skin and in particular black or mixed.

  In particular, the present invention aims to provide a makeup composition for dark skin which advantageously provides a whitening effect almost or completely free of greyish effect. The result is a more natural makeup effect of the makeup subject. The invention also aims to provide a makeup composition for dark skin providing uniformity of color between the different areas of the face, including forehead, dark circles, cheekbones.

  The inventors have discovered that such a composition is obtained by using specific dyes associated with particular solid particles. More specifically, the subject of the invention is a skin makeup composition comprising solid particles of a material having a refractive index of from 1.2 to 1.45, a liquid binder having a refractive index. ranging from 1.2 to 1.6, and at least one dyestuff capable of giving the composition a color such that said composition has a hue angle varying from 40 to 70 and a saturation C * ranging from 20 to 50 .

  The invention also relates to a skin makeup composition comprising elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles, water and at least one dyestuff capable of imparting to the composition a color such that said composition has a hue angle. ranging from 40 to 70 and saturation C * ranging from 20 to 50.

  The subject of the invention is also a makeup composition for the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles and at least a coloring material capable of conferring on the composition a color such that said composition has a hue angle varying from 40 to 70 and a saturation C * ranging from 20 to 50.

  The invention also relates to a solid composition for making up the skin comprising elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles and at least one dyestuff capable of imparting to the composition a color such that the said composition has a varying hue angle. 40 to 70 and a saturation C * ranging from 20 to 50.

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up the skin, comprising applying to the skin a composition as defined above.

  The invention further relates to a method of lightening a dark skin comprising applying to the skin a composition as described above.

  The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a makeup of dark skin devoid of undesirable color effect and conferring in particular a lightening effect. The composition according to the invention is therefore advantageous for makeup and if necessary brighten the dark skin.

  By dark skin, is meant skins whose average lightness L * measured on the forehead, cheekbones and chin in the CIE 1976 color space, is less than 60 in particular 55. The saturation C * may be for example between 8 and 30, in particular between 10 and 30, or even between 12 and 28. The hue angle values h may be for example between about 38 and about 77, in particular between 46 and 63, for example between 46 and 54. Clarity values L * may be less than or equal to 50, or even 45 or 40 for the darker skins, while being able to remain, for most skins, greater than 30.

  Dark skins are encountered for example among the African, African-American, Hispano-American, Indian and Maghreb populations.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises solid particles of a material having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45 (especially from 1.2 to 1.43). Preferably, the refractive index of these particles ranges from 1.25 to 1.45 (in particular from 1.25 to 1.43), preferably from 1.3 to 1.45 (especially from 1.3 to 1.45). 1.43), preferably from 1.35 to 1.45 (in particular from 1.35 to 1.43), more preferably from 1.38 to 1.45 (in particular from 1.38 to 1.43). and even more preferably ranges from 1.40 to 1.45 (especially ranges from 1.40 to 1.43).

  Solid particles are understood to mean particles of material being in the solid state (therefore non-liquid) at ambient temperature (25 ° C.).

  The refractive index of a solid particle is determined by mixing said solid particle in a content of from about 1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the mixture with a liquid medium comprising an oil or solvent or a mixture of oils or solvents chosen so that the mixture of particles and liquid medium is transparent, that is to say that this mixture is subjected to radiation in the wavelength range 400-700 nm using a spectrophotometer has a direct transmission is equal to 100%.

  The refractive index of the particle is then equal to the refractive index of the medium making it possible to obtain a direct transmission equal to 100%.

  If the liquid medium contains a single oil or a single solvent, the refractive index of the solid particle is equal to the refractive index of the oil or solvent.

  If the liquid medium contains a mixture of oils or solvents, the refractive index is calculated as a function of the volume proportion of each oil or solvent in the liquid medium weighted by their refractive index. For example, a mixture of ethanol (which has a refractive index of 1.36) and phenyl alcohol (which has a refractive index of 1.529) can be used.

  The determination of the refractive index is made at room temperature (25 C).

  The solid particles made of material having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45 may be elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles, silica particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45, particles of polytetrafluoroethylene. Preferably, these particles are selected from elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles.

  By organopolysiloxane elastomer is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of oranopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

  Preferably, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EPA-295886.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

  Compound (A) is the base reagent for elastomeric organopolysiloxane formation and the crosslinking is by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

  The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

  The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

  The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).

  The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

  The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.

  The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 C.

  In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

  The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylvinylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

  Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

  It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to Ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1.

  Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinicolefinic acid complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support.

  The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and ( B).

  The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

  The term "non-emulsifying" defined in particular organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene).

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may be transported in gel form consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may also be in the form of a powder, in particular in the form of a spherical powder.

  Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents US4970252, US4987169, US 5412004, US5654362, US5760116, in the application JP-A-61-194009.

  Non-emulsifying elastomers which may be used are those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-31", "KSG-32", "KSG-33", "KSG-41", "KSG-42", "KSG-43", "KSG-44" by the company Shin Etsu, "DC 9040", "DC9041", "DC 9509", " DC 9505 "," DC 9506 "by Dow Corning," GRANSIL "by Grant Industries," SFE 839 "by General Electric.

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may also be in the form of an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in patent US5538793. Such elastomers are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 by Shin Etsu.

  Other elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes in the form of powders may be hybridized silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin Etsu for hybridized phenyl functionalized silicone powders, in particular sold under the name "KSP-300" by Shin Etsu.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may have a JIS-A hardness less than or equal to 80 (in particular ranging from 5 to 80), and preferably less than or equal to 65 (in particular ranging from 5 to 65). The hardness JIS-A is measured according to the method JIS K 6301 (1995) established by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee.

  In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane particles (of active material) can have an average size ranging from 0.1 to 500 μm, preferably from 3 to 200 μm and better still from 10 to 20 μm. These particles may be spherical, flat or amorphous, and preferably of spherical shape.

  According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles used may be in the form of an aqueous dispersion, as described in patent application JP-A-101175816 or US Pat. No. 5,528,660. As a result, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by addition reaction and crosslinking, in the presence of a catalyst, in particular of the platinum type, of at least: - (a) an organopolysiloxane (i) having at least two vinyl groups in the α-co position of the silicone chain per molecule; and - (b) an organosiloxane (ii) having at least one hydrogen atom bonded to one silicon atom per molecule.

  The aqueous dispersion may in particular be obtained as follows: (a) a mixture of an organopolysiloxane (i) having at least two vinyl groups in position ao) of the silicone chain per molecule and an organosiloxane (ii) having at least one hydrogen atom bonded to one silicon atom per molecule; (b) adding a catalyst, in particular of the platinum type; (b) adding an aqueous phase containing an emulsifier to form an emulsion; and (c) polymerizing the organopolysiloxane (i) and the organosiloxane (ii) in emulsion in the presence of a catalyst. platinum.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane (i) is chosen from α-dimethylvinylpoly-dimethylsiloxanes.

  The emulsifier may be chosen from nonionic, cationic or anionic surfactants of HLB 8, preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants.

  The proportion of surfactants is preferably from 0.1 to 20 parts by weight per 100 parts by weight of the elastomeric organopolysiloxane composition, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10 parts by weight (see JP-A description). -10/175816).

  After step (c), it is possible to dry the particles obtained, to evaporate all or part of the trapped water.

  As dispersed organopolysiloxane particles in water, those sold under the names BY 29-122 and BY 29-119 by the company Dow-Corning can be used.

  Solid particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45 may also be chosen from silica particles having said refractive index. As silica, it is possible to use those sold under the names "SUNSPHERE H-51" by the company ASAHI GLASS, "SILICA SHELLS" by the company KOBO.

  The solid particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45 may also be chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane particles such as those described in application EP-A293795 and sold in particular under the name "TOSPEARL 120 A", "TOSPEARL 145 A "," TOSPEARL 2000 B "by the company GE TOSHIBA SILICONES.

  The solid particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45, and in particular the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles, can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably ranging from % to 50% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 45% by weight, and even more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight.

  According to one embodiment of the invention, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may be present in a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 20% to 80% by weight. weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 50% by weight, or even ranging from 20% to 45% by weight, or ranging from 20% to 40% by weight.

  By physiologically acceptable medium is meant a non-toxic and compatible medium to be applied to the skin of human beings.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a liquid binder having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.6.

  The liquid binder present in the composition according to the invention is a liquid having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.6, preferably from 1.2 to 1.5, preferably from 1.25 to 1.25. at 1.45, and more preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1.45.

  The liquid binder may be selected from water, water-miscible organic solvents, oils, and mixtures thereof; and preferably selected from water and water-miscible organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.

  The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

  The composition may comprise water in a content ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 15% to 25% by weight. by weight, and more preferably ranging from 20% to 25% by weight.

  The organic solvents which are miscible with water at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) may be, for example, monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; ; and their mixtures.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise a water-miscible organic solvent, in particular a polyol, in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to at 15% by weight.

  The oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof. The oil may be chosen in particular from volatile oils.

  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing a silicon atom or a hydrogen atom. fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

  By "volatile oil" is meant any non-aqueous medium immiscible with water capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, and in particular the oils having a vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging from 10-3 to 300 mmHg (0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa).

  The hydrocarbon oils may be, for example, paraffin or volatile oil, mink, turtle, soybean oil, squalane, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grape seed, sesame, maize, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (spokeam), arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor oil, avocado, jojoba, olive or sprouts of cereals; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerin; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol or oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol.

  The silicone oils may be, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones or optionally substituted with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. ; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones.

  Advantageously, one or more volatile oils can be used at room temperature. They may be hydrocarbon or silicone and optionally comprise alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain.

  Volatile oils which may be used in the invention include linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane and heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, as well as C8-C16 isoparaffins such as ISOPARs, PERMETYLs and especially isododecane.

  The liquid binder of the composition may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight. weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 15% to 35% by weight.

  The makeup composition according to the invention can also be characterized by its h tint angle and its C * saturation.

  In this case, the makeup composition according to the invention advantageously has a h tint angle varying from 40 to 70, in particular from 40 to 60, and a saturation C * of from 20 to 50. These parameters are characterized directly on the composition. according to the protocol presented hereinafter in the examples. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains at least one dyestuff to give it a hue included in the color range extending from pinkish beige to reddish brown passing in particular by the yellow oran-ge.

  Advantageously, the make-up composition according to the invention can also be characterized by its reflectance spectrum. Thus, for the range 600 to 680 nm, the reflectance varies from 10 to 45%, and more specifically from 12 to 40%.

  Moreover, this reflectance may be less than 20% in the range 450 nm to 500 nm. The spectral reflectance measurement is carried out in particular in the mass of the product using a spectrophotometer MINOLTAO type CM3700d in reflection mode, specular included and with a small aperture d / 8.

  (When the composition is in the form of loose powder, it is compacted or pressed to measure in an agglomerated product).

  All of these characteristics can advantageously be obtained, in the context of the present invention, thanks to a combination of specific coloring agents and reflective particles. Also, the coloring matter present in the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one coloring agent and at least one reflecting particle.

  Thus, according to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one coloring agent and at least one reflecting particle. Coloring agents suitable for the invention can produce, alone or in mixture, a yellow or orange or red coloring. In other words, they have a significant reflectance in the range 550 to 800 nm.

  The coloring agent (s) may be present in the makeup composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, especially ranging from 2% to 20% by weight and in particular from 5 to 18% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

  The coloring agent (s) may be chosen from inorganic or organic pigments, coloring polymers, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, organic lakes, metal powders and mixtures thereof. They may be selected from among those cited in C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 3rd Edition Cosmetic and fragrance Assn., Inc., Washington D.C.

(1982).

  By way of illustration and not limitation of the inorganic coloring agents, mention may be made more particularly of yellow, red, brown metal oxides, such as, for example, iron oxides.

  As metal powders, mention may be made of copper powder.

  Particularly suitable as organic pigments, the pigments FDC Yellow No. 5 (disodium salt tartrazine).

  By way of illustration of the organic lakes that are suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly FDC Yellow No. 5 and No. 6 AI Lacquer.

  The water-soluble dyes may be chosen for example from the brown dye identified by the caramel designation according to the Color Index; the yellow dyes identified by the numbers of Color Index Nos. 10316, 13015, 18690, 18820, 18965, 19140, 45430, 47005 and 75100 and the so-called lactoflavin; orange dyes identified by the numbers of Color Index Nos. 14270, 15510, 15980, 15985, 16230, 20170, 40215; the red dyes identified by the numbers of Color Index No. 14700, 14720, 14815, 15620, 16035, 16185, 16255, 16290, 17200, 18050, 18130, 18736, 24790, 27290, 45100, 45220, 45380, 45405, 45410, 45425 , 45430, 75470 and mixtures thereof.

  The fat-soluble dyes may be chosen for example from the brown dye identified by Color Index No. 12010; the yellow dyes identified respectively by the numbers of Color Index No. 12700, 21230, 47000, 75125, 75135; the orange dyes identified by Color Index Numbers 11920, 40800, 40820, 40825, 40850, 45396, 75120, 75130 and the capasanthine and the red dye identified by 12150 and mixtures thereof.

  The coloring polymer is a polymer comprising at least one organic dye moiety. The dye group may be grafted, in particular by covalent bonding, onto the polymer chain. The coloring polymer generally contains less than 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the polymer, of dyestuff.

  This coloring polymer may be of any chemical nature, in particular polyester, polyamide, polyurethane, polyacrylic, poly (meth) acrylic, polycarbonate, of natural origin such as cellulosic or chitosan polymers, or a mixture thereof, and in particular a polyester or polyurethane.

  In particular, the coloring polymer may be a copolymer based on at least two different monomers, at least one of which is an organic dye monomer.

  Such coloring polymers are in particular described in patents or patent applications US Pat. No. 5,032,670, US Pat. No. 4,999,418, US Pat. No. 5,106,942, US Pat. No. 5,030,708, US Pat. No. 5,109,980, US Pat. No. 5,043,376 and US Pat. No. 5,104,913. US 5,281,659, US 5,194,463, US 4,804,719, WO 92/07913 and EP-A-747036.

  By way of illustration of monomers for known dyestuff polymers, there may be mentioned anthraquinones, methines, bis-methines, azamethines, arylidenes, 3H-dibenzo [7,] i isoquinolines, 2,5-diarylaminoterephthalic acids and their esters, phthaloylphenothiazines, phthaloylphenoxazines, phthaloylacridone, anthrapyrimidines, anthrapyrazoles, phthalocyanines, quinophthalones, indophenols, perinones, nitroarylamines, benzodifuran, 2 H-1-benzopyran-2-one, quinophthalones, perylenes, quinacridones, triphenodioxazines, fluoridines, 4-amino-1,8-naphthalimides, thioxanthrones, benzanthrones, indanthrones, indigo, thioindigo, xanthene, acridine, azine and oxazine.

  Those skilled in the art are of course able, by his general knowledge, to make the choice of monomers to adjust the desired color effect according to the invention.

  The coloring agent (s) and in particular the pigments used in the context of the present invention may be used either in their raw form or in a pretreated form, especially at their surface. This treatment generally aims to increase the stability of the color and facilitate their incorporation into the cosmetic formulations. In particular, coloring agents treated to make them hydrophobic will be more easily dispersible in an oily phase.

  As a representative of these surface treatments, mention may be made in particular of treating the pigment with a hydrophobic and oleofuge agent of perfluoroalkyl phosphate derivative type as described in patent EP 1 086 683.

  Likewise, it may be useful to treat the coloring agents and in particular the pigments with a material which makes them compatible with the oily and in particular silicone phases used in the cosmetic formulations. Pigments of this type are described in particular in US Pat. No. 5,143,722.

  According to a particular embodiment, the coloring agents used according to the invention are of yellow, orange, brown or red color.

  As an illustration of the coloring agents more particularly suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned brown iron and yellow iron oxides, coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and alumina-treated titanium oxide, coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, or titanium oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, such as in particular the pigment pastes marketed under the trade names YELLOW IRON OXIDE COVAFLUOR, PF5 YELLOW 601 (yellow) and PF5 RED R516L (red), PF5 BLACK BL100 by the company DAITO, under the trade names FA50DRF, FA50DYF, FA65DF and FA65DBF by KOBO, ultramarine blue coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate under the trade name PF5 ULTRAMARINE No. 801 by the company DAITO, disodium salts of Tartrazine and aluminum lakes Allura red on alumina marketed by NOVEON under the names FDC YELLOW No. 6, Al Laque and FDC YELLOW N 5 Al Laque and their mixtures.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "reflective particles" denotes particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers constituting it and their physical and chemical nature, and the surface state, enable them to reflect the incident light. This reflection may, if necessary, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition of the foundation type according to the invention, when the latter is applied to the support to make up, highlight points visible to the eye naked, that is to say brighter points that contrast with their environment while appearing to shine.

  The reflective particles are also selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

  The reflective particles may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight, or even 3% to 10% by weight.

  These particles may have various forms. These particles may in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical.

  Reflective particles regardless of their shape, may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a reflective material.

  When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, for example synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides.

  When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, these may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metal compound. . The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.

  More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.

  The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metal compound.

  Particles of glass coated with a metal layer are described in particular in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

  Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a metal layer, there may also be mentioned particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver, also called white nacres.

  Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.

  The reflective particles, irrespective of their shape, may also be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal compound, in particular a metal oxide chosen, for example, from titanium oxides. , in particular TiO2, iron in particular Fe2O3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following compounds: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2 , Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2 and mixtures or alloys thereof.

  By way of example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or particles of coated glass of brown iron oxide, of titanium oxide, of tin oxide or a mixture thereof such as those sold under the trade name REFLECKS by ENGELHARD.

  The reflective particles may or may not be goniochromatic and / or interferential or non-interferential. For the purposes of the invention, they include nacres and goniochromatic coloring agents.

  By nacres, it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

  The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye. especially of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

  The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

  As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chroma-lite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

  It is also conceivable to use as a reflective particles a goniochromatic coloring agent, provided that this agent satisfies the required coloring effect according to the invention and does not disturb the perception of color. visual composition in terms of color effect. This goniochromatic coloring agent may in particular be chosen from interferential multilayer structures.

  The presence of particles having a refractive index as described above makes it possible to significantly reduce the quantity or even to avoid the presence of filler (s) of white type with high opacifying power such as titanium dioxide or talc.

  In this case, the makeup compositions in accordance with the invention may contain less than 5% or even 3% by weight of opacifying white particles and especially of titanium dioxide, of talc, or may be free of titanium dioxide, talc .

  Of course, it remains possible to associate with the reflective particles according to the invention one or more other conventional charges provided that they are used in an amount such that they do not affect the aesthetic effect sought by the compositions foundation type claimed, that is to say do not overly give a grayish appearance to the makeup skin when it is coated with a composition according to the invention. The man of the art is able, by his knowledge, to make this adjustment.

  Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise additional charges different from solid particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45 or elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles previously described.

  By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

  The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, sericite, silica particles having a refractive index greater than 1.45, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders, poly-p-alanine powders and polyethylene powders. lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer powders, polymethacrylate particles methyl, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer powders and lauryl methacrylate sold under the name POLYTRAP 6603 adsorber by RP Scherer, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example stearate zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; and their mixtures.

  The additional fillers are preferably chosen from mica, boron nitride, silica particles having a refractive index of greater than 1.45, polyamide (nylon) powders, polyethylene powders and dimethacrylate copolymer powders. ethylene glycol and lauryl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate particles, and mixtures thereof.

  The additional fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from from 0.5 to 20% by weight.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of additional powders that are distinct from solid particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45, in particular particles of organopolysiloxane elastomer (thus coloring material + fillers). ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight.

  Preferably, the particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45 and the other additional particles distinct from the solid particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45, in particular particles of organopolysiloxane elastomer , (thus coloring material + fillers) are present in the composition according to the invention in contents such that the weight ratio particles of refractive index 1.21.45 (or crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles) the additional particles is 0.4 / 1 to 2.5 / 1, preferably from 0.4 / 1 to 2/1, preferably from 0.4 / 1 to 1.5 / 1, more preferably from 0, 4/1 to 1.3 / 1, and even more preferably is from 0.6 / 1 to 1.3 / 1.

  The composition may contain other usual cosmetic ingredients that may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, fibers (in particular those described in applications EP-A-1201221, WO 02/47619), surfactants , waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active ingredients.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

  The makeup composition according to the invention may be in various galenical forms such as, for example, a free powder, a compact powder, a cream, a solid composition (for example of the hot-cast type), an anhydrous gel, an aqueous gel, a stick. The makeup composition is especially a non-rinsed composition.

  In particular, the composition according to the invention may be a powdery composition. The term "powdery composition" is intended to mean a composition comprising a powdery phase and having a texture that may be in the form of a free powder, of a solid composition (compact powder or pressed powder), or in the form of a pasty composition. The powdery composition is not a liquid composition (in the sense of a composition which flows under its own weight at ambient temperature (25 C)). Advantageously, the powdery composition according to the invention is a solid composition.

  By solid composition is meant a composition which does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) after one hour.

  The invention is further illustrated by the examples described below.

  Measurement of color: To measure the color of a composition, a measurement of the color in the mass of the product is carried out with a spectrophotometer of mark MINOLTA 40 of type CM-2002 with average opening and in specular reflection mode included .

  When the composition is in the form of loose powder, it is compacted or pressed in order to measure in an agglomerated product.

Example 1:

  A complexion makeup product having the following composition was prepared: 5 - An aqueous dispersion of cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane particles containing 63% by weight of cross-linked polymer (BY 29-119 from Dow Corning) 59 g, ie 37.1 g MA-Glycerin 5 g - Butylene glycol 5 g - Preservatives 1 g - Nylon powder (Orgasol 2002 extra NATOF ATOFINA D) 10 g Powder copolymer ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and lauryl methacrylate sold under the name POLYTRAP 6603 adsorbed by the company RP Scherer 5 g - 0.9 Dtex polyamide fibers of length 0.3 mm from Paul Bonte 5 g - Yellow iron oxides coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate (PF 5 YELLOW 601 from DAITO) 3.18 g - Mica- brown iron bismuth oxychloride (CHROMA-LITE BROWN 4509 from ENGELHARD) 6.27 g - Allura red aluminum lacquer on alumina (FDC RED 40 AL LAKE 6808 from NOVEON) 0.55 g After mixing ingredients, the product is packaged in a cup by pressing. The product is taken on the surface with a sponge and then applied to a black skin. Transparent skin makeup has been obtained which unifies the complexion and imparts a lightening effect. The makeup also has good softness and is comfortable for the user.

  The composition has a tint angle of 54 and a saturation C * of 31.29.

Example 2

  A foundation was prepared having the following composition: - Particles of crosslinked elastomeric polydimethylsiloxane in aqueous dispersion at 63% of crosslinked polymer 40 (BY 29-119 Dow Corning) 55 g or 34.65 g MA Nylon powder (Orgasol 2002 extra D NAT COS ATOFINA) 29 g - Glycerin 5 g - Preservative 1 g - Yellow iron oxides coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 2.59 g (PF 5 YELLOW 601 from DAITO) - Brown iron oxide coated with phosphate perfluoroalkyl 1.42 g (PF 5 RED R 516 L from DAITO) - black iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 0.67 g (PF 5 BLACK BL 100 from DAITO) - Titanium oxide coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate 0.96 g (PF 5 TIO2 to 100 from DAITO) - Yellow 6 lake (CI15985) (FD & C Yellow 6 Al lake C 70-2.18 g 5270 from Sun Chemical) Mica-iron oxide brown (Colorona Passion Orange) from Merck) 2.18 g After mixing the ingredients, the composition is packaged in a cup by pressing to obtain a compact product. The product after application to the black skin gives a lightening makeup that unifies the complexion and does not exhibit a wheezing effect.

  The composition has a hue angle of 51 and a saturation C * of 33.92.

Example 3

  A foundation was prepared having the following composition: Elastomeric cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane particles in aqueous dispersion at 63% cross-linked polymer (BY 29-119 from Dow Corning) 59 g or 37.1 g MA Glycerin 5g Propylene glycol 5g Pigments ( black iron oxide) 5g Nylon powder (Orgasol 2002 extra NATOF ATOFINA D) 10g Preservative 1g Copolymer powder ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and 5 g lauryl methacrylate sold under the name POLYTRAP 6603 adsorb by the company SR Scherer - Fibers polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm long of the company Paul Bonte 5g - Yellow iron oxides coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 1.4 g (PF 5 YELLOW 601 from DAITO) - Brown iron oxide coated with phosphate perfluoroalkyl 2.3 g (PF 5 RED R 516 L from DAITO) - black iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 0.5 g (PF 5 BLACK BL 100 from DAITO) 30 35 40 - Particles of crosslinked elastomeric polydimethylsiloxane available 63% aqueous dispersion of cross-linked polymer (BY 29-119 from Dow Corning) 55 g, ie 34.65 g MA 30 35 - Nylon powder (Orgasol 2002 extra NATOF ATOFINA D) 29 g Glycerin 5 g - Preservative 1 g - Yellow iron oxides coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 1.78 g (PF 5 YELLOW 601 from DAITO) - Brown iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 0.4 g (PF 5 RED R 516 L from DAITO) - Black iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 0.19 g (PF 5 BLACK BL 100 from DAITO) - Titanium oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 2.21 g (PF 5 TIO 2 A 100 from DAITO) silica-oxide brown iron (Xirona Indian Summer from Merck) 3.56 g yellow bismuth-iron oxide mica-oxychloride 1.86 g (Chromite-Yellow from Engelhard) - Yellow 6 lake (CI15985) (FD & C Yellow 6 AI lake C 702.2 g 5270 from Sun Chemical) - Mica brown iron oxide (Colorona Passion Orange from Merck) 2.2 g - Ultramarine blue coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 1.4 g (PF 5 Ultramarine Blue n 801 from Daito) After mixing the ingredients, the composition is packaged in a shovel by pressing to obtain a compact product. The product after application on black skin gives a makeup with a lightening effect without exhilarating effect.

  The composition has a hue angle of 47 and a saturation C * of 28.96. EXAMPLE 4 A foundation was prepared having the following composition: After mixing the ingredients, the composition is packaged in a shovel by pressing to obtain a compact product. The product after application on the black skin gives a makeup with a non-brightening lightening effect.

  The composition has a hue angle of 56 and a saturation C * of 33.81.

Example 5

  A foundation was prepared having the following composition: elastomeric crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane particles in aqueous dispersion at 63% cross-linked polymer (BY 29-119 from Dow Corning) 59 g, ie 37.1 g MA Glycerine 5 g-Butylene glycol 5 g - Pigments (black iron oxide) 5g Nylon powder (Orgasol 2002 extra ATOFINA D NAT COS) 10g Preservative 1g - Copolymer powder ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and 5g lauryl methacrylate sold under the name POLYTRAP 6603 adsorbed by the company RP Scherer - Polyamide fibers 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm long 5g Paul Bonte - Yellow iron oxides coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 1.78 g (PF 5 YELLOW 601 from DAITO) Coated brown iron oxide 0.4 g of perfluoroalkyl phosphate (PF 5 RED R 516 L from DAITO) - Black iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate 0.14 g (PF 5 BLACK BL 100 from DAITO) - Titanium oxide coated with phosphate perfluoroalkyl 2.26 g (PF 5 TI O2 A 100 from DAITO) - silica-brown iron oxide (Xirona Indian Summer from Merck) 3.06 g - bismuth mica-oxychloride-yellow iron oxide 2.36 g (Chroma-lite Yellow from Engelhard) After mixing the ingredients, the composition is packaged in a shovel by pressing to obtain a compact product. The product after application on the black skin gives a makeup with a non-exhilarating lightening effect.

  The composition has a hue angle equal to 56 and a saturation C * equal to 34.54.

Claims (58)

  A skin makeup composition comprising solid particles of a material having a refractive index of from 1.2 to 1.45, a liquid binder having a refractive index of from 1.2 to 1.6, and at least one dyestuff capable of giving the composition a color such that said composition has a hue angle varying from 40 to 70 and a saturation C * ranging from 20 to 50.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the refractive index of said solid particles ranges from 1.25 to 1.45, preferably from 1.3 to 1.45, preferably from 1 to 1.45. , 35 to 1.45, more preferably from 1.38 to 1.45, and even more preferably from 1.40 to 1.45.   3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said solid particles are selected from the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles, the polytetrafluoroethylene particles.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said solid particles are selected from the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles.   5. A skin makeup composition comprising elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles, water and at least one dyestuff capable of imparting to the composition a color such that said composition has a hue angle varying from 40 to 70 and a saturation C * ranging from 20 to 50.   6. A composition for making up the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles and at least one dyestuff capable of imparting to the composition a color such that the said composition has a hue angle ranging from 40 to 70 and a saturation C * ranging from 20 to 50.   7. A solid composition for making up the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles and at least one dyestuff capable of imparting to the composition a color such that said composition has an angle of hue varying from 40 to 70 and saturation C * ranging from 20 to 50.   8. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 7, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane crosslinked elastomer is selected from those obtained: - by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganosiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenic unsaturation groups; - by condensation reaction crosslinking dehydrogenation between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon; by the crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminus and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane; by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 8, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B ) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.   10. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 9, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.   11. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 10, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is a non-emulsifying elastomer.   12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said solid particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45 are present in a content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably ranging from % to 50% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 45% by weight, and even more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight.   13. Composition according to any one of claims 5 and 7 to 11, characterized in that the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles are present in a content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably ranging from 15% to 50% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 45% by weight, and still more preferably ranging from 20% to 40% by weight. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 6 and 8 to 11, characterized in that the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles are present in a content ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 50% by weight, or even ranging from 20% to 45% by weight, or from 20% to 40% by weight .   15. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 14, characterized in that it comprises a liquid binder having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.6.   16. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the liquid binder has a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.5, preferably 45, and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1.45.   17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and 15, 16, characterized in that the liquid binder is selected from water, water-miscible organic solvents, oils, and mixtures thereof.   18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and 15 to 17, characterized in that the liquid binder is selected from water and water-miscible organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.   19. Composition according to Claim 17 or 18, characterized in that the water-miscible organic solvents are chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms; glycol ethers having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms; and their mixtures.   20. A composition according to any one of claims 17 to 19, characterized in that the water-miscible organic solvents are chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and their mixtures.   21. Composition according to any one of claims 17 to 20, characterized in that the water-miscible organic solvent is present in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. and preferably from 3% to 15% by weight.   22. Composition according to claim 17, characterized in that the oils are chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.   23. Composition according to Claim 17 or 22, characterized in that the oils are chosen from volatile oils.   24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid binder is present in a content ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 15% to 35% by weight.   25. Composition according to any one of claims 5 and 17 to 21, characterized in that the water is present in a content ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 15% to 25% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 20% to 25% by weight.   26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a hue angle between 40 and 60.   27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dyestuff comprises at least one coloring agent and reflective particles.   28. Composition according to Claim 27, characterized in that the coloring agent is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   29. Composition according to Claim 27 or 28, characterized in that the coloring agent is present in a content ranging from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 18% by weight. % in weight.   30. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 29, characterized in that the coloring agent is unique and produces a yellow or orange or red colored effect.   31. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 30, characterized in that it contains several coloring agents and their mixture producing a yellow or orange or red colored effect.   32. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 31, characterized in that it comprises from 0.5 to 60% by weight of reflective particles relative to the total weight of the composition.   33. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 32, characterized in that it comprises from 1 to 30% by weight of reflective particles relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight. weight, and preferably from 3% to 10% by weight.   34. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 33, characterized in that the reflective particles have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.   35. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 34, wherein the coloring agent is chosen from the group comprising: inorganic or organic pigments, coloring polymers, water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, organic lakes, powders metals and their mixtures.   36. The composition of claim 35, wherein the inorganic pigments are selected from the group consisting of: yellow, red and brown metal oxides.   37. The composition of claim 35 or 36, wherein the mineral pigments are selected from iron oxides.   38. The composition of claim 35, wherein the water-soluble dye is selected from the group consisting of: the brown dye identified by the caramel designation according to the Color Index; the yellow dyes identified by the numbers of Color Index Nos. 10316, 13015, 18690, 18820, 18965, 19140, 45430, 47005 and 75100 and the so-called lactoflavin; orange dyes identified by the numbers of Color Index Nos. 14270, 15510, 15980, 15985, 16230, 20170, 40215; the red dyes identified by the numbers of Color Index No. 14700, 14720, 14815, 15620, 16035, 16185, 16255, 16290, 17200, 18050, 18130, 18736, 24790, 27290, 45100, 45220, 45380, 45405, 45410, 45425 , 45430, 75470 and their mixtures.   39. The composition of claim 35, wherein the fat-soluble dye is selected from the group consisting of: the brown dye identified as Color Index No. 12010; the yellow dyes identified respectively by the numbers of Color Index No. 12700, 21230, 47000, 75125, 75135; orange dyes identified as Color Index Nos. 11920, 40800, 40820, 40825, 40850, 45396, 75120, 75130 and the capasanthine and the red dye identified by No. 12150 and mixtures thereof.   40. The composition of claim 27, wherein the coloring agent comprises a surface treatment.   41. The composition of claim 27, wherein the reflective particles comprise particles comprising a substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal or metal compound.   42. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the substrate is selected from the group comprising: monomaterial, multi-material substrates, organic substrates, inorganic substrates, natural substrates, synthetic substrates.   43. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the inorganic substrate is chosen from the group comprising: glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, natural substrates, synthetic substrates.   44. Composition according to claim 41, in which the metal compound is chosen from the group comprising: titanium oxides, iron oxides, especially Fe 2 O 3, tin oxides, chromium oxides, barium sulphate, MgF 2 compounds, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb205, Ta2O5 and MoS2 and mixtures or alloys thereof.   45. The composition of claim 27, wherein the reflective particles comprise at least one mother-of-pearl.   46. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the mother-of-pearl is chosen from the group comprising: gold-colored mother-of-pearl, bronze mother-of-pearl, orange mother-of-pearl, brown-colored mother-of-pearl, pearl-reflective mother-of-pearl, and red-reflective mother-of-pearl. , nacres with a yellow glint, nacres of a red hue with a gold glow, pink nacres, black nacres with a gold glow, blue nacres, oranges, rosé or gilded pearls and their mixtures.   47. The composition of claim 27, wherein the reflective particles comprise at least one goniochromatic coloring agent.   48. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional charge different from solid particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45 or particles of organopolysiloxane crosslinked elastomer.   49. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional filler is chosen from mica, boron nitride, silica particles having a refractive index greater than 1.45, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders. , ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer and lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate particles, and mixtures thereof.   50. Composition according to Claim 48 or 49, characterized in that the additional filler is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight.   51. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a total content of additional powders that are distinct from the solid particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45, ranging from 20%. at 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight .   52. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45, in particular the crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles, and the other additional particles distinct from the particles. solids having a refractive index ranging from 1.2 to 1.45 are present in contents such that the weight ratio particles of refractive index 1.2-1.45 (or crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles) / additional particles goes from 0.4 / 1 to 2.5 / 1, preferably from 0.4 / 1 to 2/1, preferably from 0.4 / 1 to 1.5 / 1, more preferably from 0.4 / 1 to at 1.3 / 1, and even more preferably is from 0.6 / 1 to 1.3 / 1.   53. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic ingredient chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, fibers, neutralizers, surfactants, waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active ingredients.   54. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a free powder, a compact powder, a pressed powder, a pasty composition.   55. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is a solid composition.   56. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a foundation, a concealer product, a makeup product of the body.   57. A process for making a dark skin comprising applying to the skin a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.   58. A method for lightening dark skin comprising applying to the skin a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 56.