EP3399080A1 - Gezwirntes garn und gewebe sowie textilprodukte für kleidungsstücke damit - Google Patents

Gezwirntes garn und gewebe sowie textilprodukte für kleidungsstücke damit Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3399080A1
EP3399080A1 EP17169127.2A EP17169127A EP3399080A1 EP 3399080 A1 EP3399080 A1 EP 3399080A1 EP 17169127 A EP17169127 A EP 17169127A EP 3399080 A1 EP3399080 A1 EP 3399080A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
fibers
staple
filament
composite spun
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP17169127.2A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Tomonori Yasuda
Keita Tasaki
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Japan Wool Textile Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Japan Wool Textile Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Japan Wool Textile Co Ltd filed Critical Japan Wool Textile Co Ltd
Priority to EP17169127.2A priority Critical patent/EP3399080A1/de
Publication of EP3399080A1 publication Critical patent/EP3399080A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a twisted union yarn that includes a filament and staple composite spun yarn composed of a multifilament yarn and staple fibers, and another multifilament yarn that is wound around the filament and staple composite spun yarn.
  • the present invention also relates to a fabric and textile products for clothing, both of which use the twisted union yarn.
  • a filament and staple composite spun yarn is composed of filament fibers and staple fibers.
  • Patent Document 1 proposes a method for producing a filament and staple composite spun yarn with a uniformly combined fiber structure. In this method, a multifilament yarn is opened and then twisted with staple fibers.
  • Patent Document 2 proposes a method for producing a core yarn with a core-sheath structure. In this method, monofilament fibers (continuous filament fibers) are used as a core, and spun fibers (staple fibers) are used as a sheath.
  • the monofilament fibers and the spun fibers are twisted together so that the outer circumference of the monofilament fibers is covered with the spun fibers.
  • the present inventors propose a filament and staple composite spun yarn in which a multifilament yarn is present inside and eccentrically located in the periphery of the filament and staple composite spun yarn when viewed in cross section.
  • the present invention proposes a twisted union yarn that includes a filament and staple composite spun yarn and another multifilament yarn that is wound around the filament and staple composite spun yarn, and thus has improved stretchability and washability.
  • the present invention also proposes a fabric and textile products for clothing, both of which use the twisted union yarn.
  • a twisted union yarn of the present invention includes a filament and staple composite spun yarn composed of a first multifilament yarn and staple fibers, and a second multifilament yarn arranged on the outside of the filament and staple composite spun yarn.
  • the staple fibers include animal fibers.
  • the twist direction of the filament and staple composite spun yarn is different from that of the second multifilament yarn.
  • a woven fabric or a knitted fabric of the present invention includes the twisted union yarn.
  • a textile product for clothing of the present invention is obtained by using the woven fabric or the knitted fabric.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn is composed of the first multifilament yarn and the staple fibers, and the second multifilament yarn is arranged on the outside of the filament and staple composite spun yarn.
  • the staple fibers include animal fibers.
  • the twist direction of the filament and staple composite spun yarn is different from that of the second multifilament yarn.
  • a twisted union yarn of the present invention includes a filament and staple composite spun yarn composed of a first multifilament yarn and staple fibers, and a second multifilament yarn arranged on the outside of the filament and staple composite spun yarn.
  • the staple fibers include animal fibers.
  • the twist direction of the filament and staple composite spun yarn is different from that of the second multifilament yarn.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn and the second multifilament yarn are twisted together so that the twist direction of the filament and staple composite spun yarn is different from that of the second multifilament yarn.
  • the first multifilament yarn includes a group of filaments, and the group of filaments are eccentrically located in the periphery of the filament and staple composite spun yarn with most of the filaments being incorporated into the staple fibers and with some of the filaments being exposed, when the filament and staple composite spun yarn is viewed in cross section. Due to the incorporation of the first multifilament yarn into the staple fibers, the first multifilament yarn is embedded to reduce the degree of exposure, so that more properties of the staple fibers can be derived. Thus, the filament and staple composite spun yarn has a fluffy and soft texture while suppressing crispiness.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn is a single yarn and preferably has a twist coefficient K 1 of 70 to 200.
  • the twist coefficient K 1 is more preferably 75 to 190, and particularly preferably 80 to 180.
  • the twist coefficient K 1 is expressed by the following formula (1).
  • the twist coefficient K 1 of the single yarn to be spun by a ring spinning frame is within the above range, the filament and staple composite spun yarn has more preferred properties, i.e., a fluffy and soft texture like a general wool yarn while suppressing crispiness. This yarn is useful as a single yarn for a knitting yarn or a jersey yarn.
  • the twisted union yarn is a single yarn and preferably has a twist coefficient K 2 of 70 to 200.
  • the twist coefficient K 2 is more preferably 75 to 190, and particularly preferably 80 to 180.
  • the twist coefficient (first twist coefficient) K 1 of the filament and staple composite spun yarn is equal to the twist coefficient (second twist coefficient) K 2 of the twisted union yarn.
  • the twists can be balanced and stable, since the first twist direction and the second twist direction are different from each other.
  • the proportions of the first and second multifilament yarns and the staple fibers in the twisted union yarn may be defined in the following manner.
  • the total amount of the first and second multifilament yarns is preferably 5% by weight or more and less than 50% by weight, and the amount of the staple fibers is preferably more than 50% by weight and 95% by weight or less. If the twisted union yarn is rich in staple fibers, it can easily use the advantages of animal fibers such as warmth.
  • the staple fibers may include animal fibers or a blended yarn composed of any combination of animal fibers and polyester fibers, animal fibers and nylon fibers, animal fibers and cellulose acetate fibers, animal fibers and cupra fibers, or animal fibers and silk fibers.
  • the presence of the animal fibers can make good use of its advantages such as warmth.
  • Examples of the animal fibers include wool, cashmere, mohair, and camel's hair. The wool is particularly useful.
  • the wool mixed with cashmere or mohair is lightweight and lustrous, providing a high-grade material.
  • the fiber length of the staple fibers is preferably 20 to 200 mm, and more preferably 30 to 180 mm.
  • the first and second multifilament yarns are made of at least one selected from the group consisting of polyester fibers, nylon fibers, cellulose acetate fibers, cupra fibers, and silk fibers.
  • the combination of these multifilament yarns with animal fibers can add value to the twisted union yarn.
  • the fineness of the twisted union yarn is preferably 58.8 to 417 decitex per single yarn (i.e., 24 to 170 metric number per single yarn, which is expressed as 1/24 to 1/170), and more preferably 64.5 to 333.3 decitex per single yarn (i.e., 30 to 155 metric number per single yarn, which is expressed as 1/30 to 1/155).
  • the preferred fineness is 117.6 to 833 decitex (i.e., 12 to 85 metric number per plied yarn, which is expressed as 2/24 to 2/170).
  • the washability means that the twisted union yarn is able to withstand domestic washing.
  • the size of the twisted union yarn is measured after it has been washed in water 20 times by a method according to JIS L 0217 (105 method). The measurements show that changes in the size of the twisted union yarn are 2.0% or less in both the vertical and horizontal directions. The reason for this may be that the multifilament yarns are helically wound around the staple fibers and restrict the movement of the staple fibers in the twisted union yarn. Therefore, even if the staple fibers (such as wool) are likely to shrink when washed by rubbing in water, the twisted union yarn can exhibit its washability.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic conceptual diagram of a twisted union yarn of an embodiment of the present invention.
  • a twisted union yarn 24 includes a filament and staple composite spun yarn 20 and a second multifilament yarn 23 that are twisted together. In this case, both yarns may be drawn and twisted by a twisting machine such as a double twister.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20 is composed of staple fibers 21 and a first multifilament yarn 22.
  • the staple fibers 21 include animal fibers.
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic external view of the twisted union yarn 24. As illustrated in FIG. 2 , the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20 and the second multifilament yarn 23 are twisted around each other to form the twisted union yarn 24. The actual twisted union yarn is close to that of FIG. 2 .
  • FIG. 3A is a cross-sectional view of an example of the filament and staple composite spun yarn used in the present invention.
  • FIG. 3B is a side view of the filament and staple composite spun yarn.
  • the first multifilament yarn 22 includes a group of filaments and is twisted together with the staple fibers 21.
  • the group of filaments of the first multifilament yarn 22 are present inside and eccentrically located in the periphery of the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20.
  • the first multifilament yarn 22 is twisted in the same direction as the twist direction of the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20.
  • the group of filaments of the first multifilament yarn 22 are incorporated into the staple fibers 21 and displaced from the center of the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20, as illustrated in FIG. 3A .
  • the first multifilament yarn 22, which is incorporated into the staple fibers 21, is helically twisted in the same direction as the twist direction of the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20, as illustrated in FIG. 3B . Due to the incorporation of the first multifilament yarn 22 into the staple fibers 21, the first multifilament yarn 22 is embedded to reduce the degree of exposure, so that more properties of the staple fibers 21 can be derived.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20 has a fluffy and soft texture while suppressing crispiness.
  • first and second multifilament yarns 22, 23 twine around the staple fibers 21, i.e., the staple fibers 21 are bound with the first and second multifilament yarns 22, 23. This prevents the staple fibers 21 from fuzzing. Consequently, the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20 has resistance to fuzzing and pilling as well as washability.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20 is substantially circular in cross section, as illustrated in FIG. 3A , and is substantially linear in side view, as illustrated in FIG. 3B .
  • the first multifilament yarn 22 is embedded to reduce the degree of exposure, so that more properties of the staple fibers 21 can be derived.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20 has a fluffy and soft texture while suppressing crispiness.
  • the winding pitch of each of the first and second multifilament yarns is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 mm, more preferably 0.6 to 4.0 mm, and particularly preferably 0.7 to 3.0 mm. If the winding pitch is within the above range, the first and second multifilament yarns are wound around the staple fibers to bind them together, thereby improving the washability. Moreover, since the first and second multifilament yarns are helically wound around the staple fibers, the multifilament yarns extend like a coil when they are pulled in the longitudinal direction, and thus can impart good extensibility to the filament and staple composite spun yarn. In particular, when the staple fibers are wool, the fiber length is 55 to 100 mm. Therefore, the winding pitch within the above range can increase the number of times the multifilament yarns are wound around each single fiber, which contributes to the integration of the staple fibers and the multifilament yarns.
  • FIG. 4 is a perspective view illustrating the main portion of a ring spinning frame for producing the filament and staple composite spun yarn in an example of the present invention.
  • reference numeral 3 represents a positively rotatable front-bottom main shaft.
  • Front-bottom rollers 4 are provided on the front-bottom main shaft 3 for each spindle.
  • Front-top rollers 5 are placed on the front-bottom rollers 4, respectively.
  • Each of the front-top rollers 5 is covered with a rubber cot.
  • the front-top rollers 5 are fitted on a common arbor 6 under a load so that they can roll independently.
  • a staple fiber bundle 15 is fed from a roving bobbin 1, passes through a guide bar and a trumpet feeder 7, and is supplied to a back roller 8.
  • the staple fiber bundle 15 is fed from the back roller 8 and drafted in a draft apron 9. Subsequently, the staple fiber bundle 15 is nipped between the front-bottom roller 4 and the front-top roller 5, and spun into a strand.
  • a multifilament yarn 16 is fed from a pirn 2, passes through thread guides and a yarn guide 14 in a state free of tension, and is supplied to the upstream side of the front-top roller 5.
  • the multifilament yarn 16 is laid on the staple fiber bundle 15 on the nip line of the front-bottom roller 4 and the front-top roller 5, and then these strands are truly twisted.
  • the true twist may be inserted into the yarn by passing it through a snail wire 10 and an anti-node ring 11, and winding it on a spindle 13 via a traveler 12.
  • the resulting filament and staple composite spun yarn 20 is wound on the spindle 13.
  • FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram for explaining a state in which the staple fiber bundle 15 and the multifilament yarn 16 are twisted together when viewed from the above of the front-top roller 5.
  • the staple fiber bundle 15 and the multifilament yarn 16 are joined together on the nip line 17 of the front-bottom roller 4 and the front-top roller 5, and then twisted after these strands have passed through the nip line 17, so that the filament and staple composite spun yarn 20 is obtained.
  • the staple fiber bundle is supplied to a drafting zone, and the multifilament yarn is supplied to the upstream side of the front-top roller in a state free of tension.
  • the multifilament yarn is laid on the drafted staple fiber bundle on the nip line, and then these strands are truly twisted, thereby producing the filament and staple composite spun yarn.
  • the state free of tension means that it allows the multifilament yarn to simply passes through the yarn guide without using, e.g., a washer tensor while minimizing friction.
  • the tension is preferably 0 to 15 g, more preferably 0 to 10 g, and particularly preferably 0 to 6.5 g.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn thus obtained and the second multifilament yarn are twisted around each other by a twisting machine such as a double twister to form a twisted union yarn.
  • the fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric or a knitted fabric that includes the twisted union yarn.
  • the twisted union yarn is preferably 10 to 100% by weight with respect to 100% by weight of the entire fabric.
  • the staple fibers used for the twisted union yarn are animal fibers (e.g., wool)
  • only about 5% by weight of the twisted union yarn is enough to give the fabric a soft texture and warmth, and thus can make it well suited for comfortable clothing.
  • the fabric of the present invention can be widely used as general woven fabrics or knitted fabrics. Examples of the woven fabrics include plain weave fabric, twill weave fabric, and satin weave fabric. Examples of the knitted fabrics include warp knitted fabric, weft knitted fabric, and double knitted fabric.
  • the weight per unit area of the woven fabric or knitted fabric is preferably 100 to 300 g/m 2 . Dyeing may be performed in the usual manner at any stage of cotton, yarn, or fabric (including woven fabric and knitted fabric).
  • Textile products for clothing of the present invention are obtained by sewing the above fabric.
  • Examples of the textile products for clothing include suits, uniforms, school uniforms, workwear, sportswear, shirts, innerwear, and socks. These clothing products are suitable for three seasons from autumn through winter to spring.
  • the strength and elongation of the yarn was measured in accordance with JIS L 1095 9.5.1.
  • the strength of the woven fabric was measured in accordance with JIS L 1096 A.
  • the pilling resistance was measured in accordance with JIS L 1076 A.
  • the texture was measured by a KES texture measurement test available from KATO TECH CO., LTD.
  • a filament and staple composite spun yarn of this example was a single yarn for woven fabric.
  • a filament and staple composite spun yarn was produced in the manner illustrated in FIGS. 4 to 5 .
  • PET polyethylene terephthalate
  • the PET multifilament yarn was laid on the drafted wool fiber bundle on the nip line, and then these strands were truly twisted, thereby producing a filament and staple composite spun yarn.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn had 60 metric number per single yarn (expressed as 1/60), i.e., a fineness of 166.7 decitex, and a twist coefficient K 1 of 90 (Z-twist).
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn thus obtained and a PET multifilament yarn (total fineness: 84 decitex, the number of filaments: 24) were twisted around each other with a twist coefficient K 2 of 90 (S-twist) by a twisting machine (double twister).
  • the resulting twisted union yarn had a strength of 575 g and a breaking elongation of 41.9%.
  • Table 1 shows the physical properties of this woven fabric.
  • a filament and staple composite spun yarn was produced in the same manner as Example 1, except for the changes shown in Table 1.
  • Two filament and staple composite spun yarns thus obtained were twisted together by a twisting machine (double twister) to form a plied yarn having a twist coefficient K 2 of 90.
  • the plied yarn had a strength of 495 g and a breaking elongation of 39.6%.
  • a 2/2 twill weave fabric was produced. Table 1 shows the physical properties of this woven fabric.
  • the woven fabric of Example 1 had washability, excellent pilling resistance, and good stretchability (extensibility).
  • Example 2 a filament and staple composite spun yarn produced in the same manner as Example 1 and a PET multifilament yarn (total fineness: 33 decitex, the number of filaments: 12) were twisted around each other with a twist coefficient K 2 of 90 (S-twist) by a twisting machine (double twister).
  • the resulting twisted union yarn had a strength of 346 g and a breaking elongation of 35.3%.
  • a plain knitted fabric was produced by a circular knitting machine. Table 2 shows the physical properties of this knitted fabric.
  • a filament and staple composite spun yarn was produced in the same manner as Example 1, except for the changes shown in Table 2.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn had a strength of 211 g and a breaking elongation of 32.9%.
  • a plain knitted fabric was produced by a circular knitting machine. Table 2 shows the physical properties of this knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of Example 1 had high breaking strength, washability, and excellent pilling resistance.
  • the filament and staple composite spun yarn of the present invention can be used for pleating while maintaining the properties of staple fibers such as the ability to make clothes comfortable to wear. Moreover, the filament and staple composite spun yarn has excellent washability (including domestic washing), strength, durability, and dimensional stability. Further, the filament and staple composite spun yarn is suitable for, e.g., school uniforms, uniforms, suits, workwear, sportswear, shirts, and underwear.
EP17169127.2A 2017-05-02 2017-05-02 Gezwirntes garn und gewebe sowie textilprodukte für kleidungsstücke damit Withdrawn EP3399080A1 (de)

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EP17169127.2A EP3399080A1 (de) 2017-05-02 2017-05-02 Gezwirntes garn und gewebe sowie textilprodukte für kleidungsstücke damit

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113564780A (zh) * 2021-08-02 2021-10-29 金利来(中国)有限公司 一种羊毛混纺面料的制造方法
US11639564B1 (en) * 2022-07-15 2023-05-02 Wetsox, LLC Twisted yarns and methods of manufacture thereof
WO2024015563A1 (en) * 2022-07-15 2024-01-18 Wetsox, LLC Twisted yarns and methods of manufacture thereof

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1312405A (zh) * 2000-03-08 2001-09-12 山东德棉集团有限公司 一种多层复合纱及其纺制方法
JP2003073944A (ja) 2001-09-03 2003-03-12 Nisshinbo Ind Inc 複合糸
JP2006225827A (ja) 2005-02-16 2006-08-31 Toshibumi Morihashi コアヤーンおよび織編物
KR100689604B1 (ko) * 2006-06-27 2007-03-02 한국니트산업연구원 저신도 원사의 신도향상을 위한 복합사 및 그 제조방법
JP2012102445A (ja) 2010-11-15 2012-05-31 Toyobo Co Ltd 長短複合紡績糸織物及び製品
JP2014105395A (ja) * 2012-11-26 2014-06-09 Japan Wool Textile Co Ltd 長短複合紡績糸及びその製造方法並びにこれを用いた布帛と衣料用繊維製品
JP2014196572A (ja) * 2013-03-29 2014-10-16 日本毛織株式会社 衣料用編地

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1312405A (zh) * 2000-03-08 2001-09-12 山东德棉集团有限公司 一种多层复合纱及其纺制方法
JP2003073944A (ja) 2001-09-03 2003-03-12 Nisshinbo Ind Inc 複合糸
JP2006225827A (ja) 2005-02-16 2006-08-31 Toshibumi Morihashi コアヤーンおよび織編物
KR100689604B1 (ko) * 2006-06-27 2007-03-02 한국니트산업연구원 저신도 원사의 신도향상을 위한 복합사 및 그 제조방법
JP2012102445A (ja) 2010-11-15 2012-05-31 Toyobo Co Ltd 長短複合紡績糸織物及び製品
JP2014105395A (ja) * 2012-11-26 2014-06-09 Japan Wool Textile Co Ltd 長短複合紡績糸及びその製造方法並びにこれを用いた布帛と衣料用繊維製品
JP2014196572A (ja) * 2013-03-29 2014-10-16 日本毛織株式会社 衣料用編地

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113564780A (zh) * 2021-08-02 2021-10-29 金利来(中国)有限公司 一种羊毛混纺面料的制造方法
US11639564B1 (en) * 2022-07-15 2023-05-02 Wetsox, LLC Twisted yarns and methods of manufacture thereof
WO2024015563A1 (en) * 2022-07-15 2024-01-18 Wetsox, LLC Twisted yarns and methods of manufacture thereof

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