EP3167104B1 - Tissu et article d'habillement comprenant des zones de compression et méthode d'obtention d'un tel tissu - Google Patents

Tissu et article d'habillement comprenant des zones de compression et méthode d'obtention d'un tel tissu Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3167104B1
EP3167104B1 EP15736551.1A EP15736551A EP3167104B1 EP 3167104 B1 EP3167104 B1 EP 3167104B1 EP 15736551 A EP15736551 A EP 15736551A EP 3167104 B1 EP3167104 B1 EP 3167104B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
weave
pocket
threads
weaves
Prior art date
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Active
Application number
EP15736551.1A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
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EP3167104A1 (fr
Inventor
Sébastien Perrin
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Perrin & Fils
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Perrin & Fils
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Publication of EP3167104A1 publication Critical patent/EP3167104A1/fr
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Publication of EP3167104B1 publication Critical patent/EP3167104B1/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D03D11/02—Fabrics formed with pockets, tubes, loops, folds, tucks or flaps
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of weaving and relates to a pocket fabric comprising zones of different elasticity, to an article of clothing comprising the pocket fabric and to a method of manufacturing such a pocket fabric.
  • Weaving is a well-known technique for making fabrics, which consists in interlacing at least two sets of threads, a first series forming a warp and a second forming a weft, the crossing mode being defined by a code called armor.
  • the graphic representation of the armor comprises a matrix in which the vertical columns represent the warp threads and the horizontal rows designate the weft threads or picks.
  • the plain weave is obtained by passing each weft thread alternately above and below each warp thread ( figure 1 ).
  • the armor ratio R (representing the number of warp and weft threads needed for its reproduction, that is, the number of threads and picks after which the armor repeats itself) is equal to 2 (2 warp yarns for 2 weft yarns), with a stitch (representing the gradation of binding of yarns with picks as weaving) which is equal to 1.
  • the serge weave is obtained by the interweaving of a warp yarn two or more picks, each pick being shifted by one yarn with respect to the previous one.
  • the armor ratio R is at least 3, it always has a shot of 1. You can weave the serge armor on two, three or four blades. For a serge 3/1, or of 3 lie 1 ( figure 2 ), the warp thread passes alternately under 3 weft yarns and then on 1 weft yarn. For a 2/2 serge weave, the warp thread passes alternately under 2 weft threads and then 2 weft threads. For a 1/3 serge weave, the warp thread passes alternately under 1 weft yarn and then on 3 weft yarns.
  • Satin weave has only one binding point on each warp and on each armor ratio.
  • derived armor such as the "gauze” armor ( figure 4 ) or “honeycomb” armor ( figure 5 ), which are obtained by adding additional warp and / or weft additions to basic weave, by addition, intercalation, transposition, superposition, juxtaposition, radiation. It is also possible to obtain armor composed by juxtaposition of two or more different armor.
  • a fabric is woven in two dimensions, on a linear loom, by interleaving in one plane the son of the warp and those of the weft, to form a single piece of flat fabric.
  • tubular fabrics which are knitted fabrics and are made on circular knitting machines to obtain a piece of fabric in three dimensions, in this case a tube.
  • the document FR 2 890 083 A1 discloses a tubular ribbon comprising successive zones that are elastic or inelastic, the different elasticities of the different ribbon tracings being obtained by choosing different weft densities by varying the speed of the ribbon call roller of each zone or the variation of the titles Frames of each zone.
  • the weft and warp threads are not intrinsically elastic.
  • pockets fabrics which are flat fabric pieces and include pockets connected to the rest of the piece of fabric by weaving. These are fabrics that are not made on circular looms, but on linear looms of the Jacquard type. These tissues are obtained by periodically dividing the warp yarns into two distinct chains, superimposed on one another, woven concomitantly to form pockets, and then the yarns of the two chains are intermittently reunited again. a single single chain that is woven thus forming the connecting fabric between the pockets.
  • the fabric is cut according to a pattern to form everything. or part of an article of clothing, parts which are then assembled by stitching or by thermo-welding.
  • elastic garment articles using elastic fabrics made using elastic weft and / or warp threads or compression garments that comprise different pieces of fabric. of different elasticity assembled by sewing or thermo-welding, or by the addition of compression bands stuck or sewn on a support fabric.
  • These articles are particularly useful in the medical or sports field, because compression effects can improve the blood circulation of the wearer of the garment or allow during a practice of an activity, for example sports, which includes the repetition of particular movements, a reduction of fatigue and a better physical and physiological recovery while ensuring the maintenance of muscle mass and joints.
  • the present invention aims to provide a pocket fabric, an article of clothing and a method of manufacturing such a fabric and such an article of clothing, which do not have the disadvantages of the state of the art.
  • the present invention aims at providing a solution which is an alternative to the current fabrics and articles of clothing and to their existing manufacturing methods.
  • the present invention aims to provide a solution that is easy to implement and makes it possible to modulate the effect of transverse and longitudinal compression according to particular areas of the body that are solicited during a given physical activity.
  • the present invention relates to a pocket fabric comprising elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns and comprising one or more pockets comprising at least two superimposed fabric layers whose warp yarns are derived from the warp yarns division.
  • a single chain the at least two layers of fabric being interconnected by one or more woven joining zones in which the warp yarns are derived from the reunification of the fabric layers into a single single chain, one and / or the at least two fabric layers comprising a plurality of different elasticity armors, the armor defining zones of different elasticity in said woven pocket fabric.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for obtaining a fabric according to the invention, the method comprising the steps of taking elastic warp threads and elastic weft threads, dividing the warp threads at least once in minus two secondary chains, weaving the threads of the at least two secondary chains in a first weave of a given elasticity, then, without interrupting weaving, weaving the threads of the at least two secondary chains in a second weave, or a plurality of other weaves, having one or different elasticities of said first weave to form zones of different elasticity at defined locations of the pocket fabric, and then joining, at least once, the son of the at least two secondary chains into a single chain to forming at least one woven junction zone and forming at least one pocket.
  • the present invention also relates to an article of clothing made of woven fabric, or comprising the woven fabric, according to the invention.
  • the article of clothing is a clothing for the practice of a sport.
  • the fabric according to the present invention is a pocket fabric, woven in one piece, obtained by weaving elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns.
  • the term "elastic” should be understood as covering materials that are extensible in the direction of the bias and allowing a return to their original shape.
  • the elastic yarns forming the fabric are made of elastic fibers, such as, for example, elastane fibers, or else made of a non-elastic, natural or synthetic fiber, covered with a material, or with a composition, which makes it possible to confer elasticity properties, or comprising non-elastic fibers assembled or twisted with elastic fibers or non-elastic fibers covered with an elastic material, to form a yarn having elastic properties.
  • elastic fibers such as, for example, elastane fibers, or else made of a non-elastic, natural or synthetic fiber, covered with a material, or with a composition, which makes it possible to confer elasticity properties, or comprising non-elastic fibers assembled or twisted with elastic fibers or non-elastic fibers covered with an elastic material, to form a yarn having elastic properties.
  • the pocket fabric according to the invention comprises one or more pockets, each pocket comprising at least two layers of fabric whose warp yarns come from the yarns of the same single main chain and which has been divided into at least two secondary chains, the secondary chains being woven concomitantly.
  • the pockets, thus woven, are closed by joining the layers of fabric to one another or another, by weaving, joining the son of the secondary chains into a single chain.
  • the pocket fabric according to the invention may comprise a multitude of pockets next to each other.
  • the pockets may, independently of one another, comprise two, three, or a multitude of layers of tissue, which makes it possible to obtain a fabric of which one or more portions comprise pockets superimposed on one another, or pockets overlapping.
  • the main chain son are divided into a plurality of secondary chains, which are woven concomitantly, then joined to each other, by weaving, joining the son of a secondary chain to another secondary chain and / or by bringing all the threads of the secondary chains into a single chain.
  • one and / or the at least two layers comprise one or a multitude of zones different elasticity, obtained by the use of different armor with different elasticities, and this, using elastic son, the same or different for the frame and the chain of these different armor.
  • the zones of different elasticity can be arranged symmetrically or asymmetrically, unilaterally or bilaterally, from one layer of fabric to one or the other. It is thus possible to modulate the elasticity of a pocket fabric in different areas.
  • the zones of different elasticity, and therefore the armors having different elasticities are arranged in a predetermined pattern according to the article of clothing that will be made of such a fabric, and in particular according to the zones of predetermined localized compression.
  • a first pocket-forming fabric layer may comprise one type of armor or succession of armors of different elasticities, the second layer, or the other layers of fabric, including the same type of armor or succession of armor. different elasticities, or else another type of armor or succession of armor of different elasticities having one or different elasticities of that (s) of the first layer of fabric.
  • the tests were carried out on a woven fabric using yarns known under the trade name lycra® (registered trademark) of 44 decitex (or Dtex), ie 44 ⁇ 10 -7 kg / m, whose chain has a density of 74 threads per centimeter and a weft of 66 threads per centimeter.
  • the tests consist on the one hand to measure the force necessary to obtain 40% of elongation of the warp or the weft, and on the other hand to measure the maximum elongation (% of maximum deformation) obtained for two cycles of stretching the warp or weft with a force of 15 newtons.
  • the elasticity of a fabric is certainly the use or not of elastic son warp and / or weft, but it also appears that the type of armor used influences the final elasticity of the fabric.
  • the fabric according to the invention may comprise a succession of canvas armor and serge armor, or a succession of canvas armor, serge armor and honeycomb armor.
  • the areas of different elasticity succeed one another, and are arranged adjacent to each other, the passage from one to the other is done continuously, directly on the loom or using a joining weave to produce a junction tissue zone, which has the advantage of allowing a gradual transition from one elasticity to another.
  • the armor junction armor comprises a combination of different elasticity armors to be joined.
  • the area of tissue joining two tissue portions comprises a combination of 0% ( figure 6 a) ), 25%, 50%, 75% then 100% armor "A" figure 6 i) ).
  • the layers forming the pocket (s) are joined by weaving, preferably by means of a knitting armor, which may be one of the weaves of one or more layers of fabric of the pocket or pockets, or a particular knitting armor.
  • the fabric layers forming the pockets and / or the seaming areas between the pockets comprise a base weave in which is or are embedded one or more other armors of different elasticity.
  • the incorporation of these armor is preferably in a defined location.
  • Base armor and armor of different elasticities are basic armor, derived armor, or compound armor.
  • the method of manufacturing the fabric according to the invention comprises weaving elastic threads of a single chain, which after a first weave in a first weave, is periodically divided into at least two secondary chains, to form one or more pockets.
  • the weaving of the at least two chains is concomitant and is carried out according to a first weave having a given elasticity, and then without interrupting weaving, according to a second weave, or a plurality of other weaves, having one or different elasticities of said first weave .
  • the weave of different elasticity armor can be done on one and / or the other or more of the at least two chains symmetrically, asymmetrically, unilaterally or bilaterally, from one layer of fabric to another or to other.
  • the transition from one armor of different elasticity to another can be done on one and / or the other or more of the at least two chains, using a junction armor to produce a zone of junction fabric, which has the advantage of allowing a gradual transition from one elasticity to another.
  • the armor junction armor comprises a combination of different elasticity armors to be joined.
  • the method of manufacturing the fabric according to the invention comprises the reunification, at least once, preferably periodically, of the warp threads in a single chain, so as to form one or more woven joining zones and thus form at least one pocket, preferably several pockets.
  • the one or more woven joining zones comprise a joining armor which comprises a combination of the armors to be joined
  • the method of manufacturing the fabric according to the invention has the advantage of allowing complete freedom in the placement of the zones of different elasticity upstream of the process of making the fabric or article of clothing, as well as a perfect integration into the fabric of zones of different elasticity.
  • the article of clothing according to the present invention comprises, or is made of, woven fabric according to the present invention.
  • the article of clothing has the advantage of including zones of compression, advantageously located in the article of clothing to allow improving the blood circulation and / or a reduction of fatigue and a better physical and physiological recovery while by ensuring the maintenance of muscle mass and joints, during the practice of physical activity, while having improved comfort due to the lack of seams between different areas of different elasticities.
  • the article of clothing is elastic in the sense of the warp and the weft. It is elastic in the transverse and longitudinal direction of the body which carries it or element of the body considered, limb or torso for example. It further comprises areas of different elasticity, transverse and / or longitudinal, depending on the areas of the body or body part carrying the article.
  • body elements it is necessary to understand the head, the torso, a lower and / or upper limb, thigh, leg, feet, arms, forearms and hands.
  • the article of clothing comprises a main portion having a given elasticity made or comprising a woven fabric comprising elastic warp yarns and weft elastic yarns according to one or more basic, derived or compound weaves, and compression zones comprising a woven fabric comprising elastic warp yarns and elastic weft yarns in one or more basic, derived or compound weaves having different elasticities than those of the main part.
  • the article of clothing comprises one or more openings to allow the passage of the body intended to wear it or one or more body elements.
  • these openings comprise means for closing the article of clothing around the body or body elements obtained by weaving the elastic warp and weft threads according to a armor having an elasticity different from the plurality of armor of which the article of clothing is made. This is, for example for shorts, a belt woven in an armor having a different elasticity of the plurality of armor component clothing article allowing the shorts to grip the size of the person wearing the shorts.
  • the edges of the article of clothing are made of or comprise a weave weave known as a finishing weave of the edges, advantageously having a different elasticity of the weaves used for the main part of the article of clothing, and even more advantageously, having an elasticity identical to that of the closing means of the article of clothing around the body or body elements.
  • the main part of the article of clothing includes the plain weave and the serge weave, while the belt and the edges of the legs in the case of shorts, or the neckline and the Sleeve edges in the case of a teeshirt, include honeycomb weave.
  • the fabric according to the invention has the additional advantage of having the junction armor of the pockets which acts as edge finishing.
  • this junction armor can be a linen or serge armor.
  • the article of clothing is a garment, preferably a garment of the bottom and / or the upper body, for example a lingerie article, a long or short-sleeved t-shirt, a tank top, shorts, a leotard, a swimsuit, a tights, a combination of skiing, skating, bobsleigh, but it can also be gloves, a hat, a mask, a hood, socks.
  • a clothing for the practice of a sport such as swimming, surfing, cycling, walking, running.
  • the article of clothing is a t-shirt or a combination comprising zones of different elasticity at the level of the pectorals and / or the spine.
  • the article of clothing is shorts comprising zones of different elasticity in the thighs and / or the genitals and / or the crotch.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
EP15736551.1A 2014-07-11 2015-06-16 Tissu et article d'habillement comprenant des zones de compression et méthode d'obtention d'un tel tissu Active EP3167104B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1456732A FR3023564B1 (fr) 2014-07-11 2014-07-11 Tissu et article d'habillement comprenant des zones de compression et methode d'obtention d'un tel tissu.
PCT/FR2015/051593 WO2016005670A1 (fr) 2014-07-11 2015-06-16 Tissu et article d'habillement comprenant des zones de compression et méthode d'obtention d'un tel tissu

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3167104A1 EP3167104A1 (fr) 2017-05-17
EP3167104B1 true EP3167104B1 (fr) 2019-04-17

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Family Applications (1)

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EP15736551.1A Active EP3167104B1 (fr) 2014-07-11 2015-06-16 Tissu et article d'habillement comprenant des zones de compression et méthode d'obtention d'un tel tissu

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US11313055B2 (zh)
EP (1) EP3167104B1 (zh)
CN (1) CN106795664B (zh)
FR (1) FR3023564B1 (zh)
WO (1) WO2016005670A1 (zh)

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RU2674897C1 (ru) * 2018-05-24 2018-12-13 Федеральное государственное автономное образовательное учреждение высшего образования "Национальный исследовательский Томский политехнический университет" Устройство для тренировки верхних конечностей
JP6501334B1 (ja) * 2018-09-06 2019-04-17 内野株式会社 多重ガーゼ織物
US11788214B2 (en) * 2021-03-30 2023-10-17 American Cord & Webbing Co., Inc. Webbing construction

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3023564A1 (fr) 2016-01-15
WO2016005670A1 (fr) 2016-01-14
CN106795664A (zh) 2017-05-31
FR3023564B1 (fr) 2017-03-24
US20170204542A1 (en) 2017-07-20
CN106795664B (zh) 2018-06-26
EP3167104A1 (fr) 2017-05-17
US11313055B2 (en) 2022-04-26

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