EP2811976A2 - Utilisation d'un extrait de jus de pomme dans une composition cosmetique pour le confort cutane - Google Patents
Utilisation d'un extrait de jus de pomme dans une composition cosmetique pour le confort cutaneInfo
- Publication number
- EP2811976A2 EP2811976A2 EP13706651.0A EP13706651A EP2811976A2 EP 2811976 A2 EP2811976 A2 EP 2811976A2 EP 13706651 A EP13706651 A EP 13706651A EP 2811976 A2 EP2811976 A2 EP 2811976A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- cryoextract
- apple
- composition
- skin
- malus
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/24—Thermal properties
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a new composition comprising an extract of apple juice, used in cosmetics, more particularly a composition comprising a cryoextract of apple juice, to ensure or restore the comfort of the skin.
- the skin consists of superficial layers, namely the epidermis, and deeper layers, the dermis and hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment.
- the epidermis which is composed of three types of cells, namely keratinocytes (90% of epidermal cells), melanocytes (2 to 3% of epidermal cells) and Langerhans cells, constitutes the outer layer and plays a role. fundamental to ensure the protection and maintenance of good trophicity.
- the dermis serves as a support for the epidermis and consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix essentially based on collagen and elastin.
- Collagen fibers contribute to the texture and tone of the skin and elastin is responsible for its elasticity.
- Other cells such as macrophages and leucocytes, are also present in the dermis layer.
- the hypodermis which is the deepest layer of skin, contains lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a fat layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.
- the skin is a real organ whose main function is the anatomical barrier function isolating the body from its external environment, while constituting a zone of exchange between the body and its environment, and protecting against external aggression.
- Healthy skin is usually smooth, soft and supple, with a clear complexion. It is desirable to preserve the health of the skin and maintain its well-being and comfort.
- plant extracts include fruit tree extracts, for example bark, leaves and fruits, depending on the desired effects, in particular various plants of the family Rosaceae, such as pear and apple.
- the apple tree (Pyrus malus) is one of the most cultivated fruit trees in the world, in China, North America and Europe, in generally temperate regions, producing many varieties of fruit.
- the fruit of the apple tree has been used for many years in cosmetics, for example to prepare masks that can be temporarily applied to the skin, generally for a moisturizing effect of the skin, and also a slightly astringent effect intended to tighten the pores of the skin.
- FR 2,719,473 describes a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising a dry extract of Rosaceae fruit juice such as pear, apple, plum, apricot, etc., rich in malic acid, citric acid and sorbitol having an antiradical effect and an effect promoting cell renewal.
- Patent FR 2 916 972 describes cosmetic compositions based on apple extracts, apple vinegar, glycoproteins, silicon and essential oil with firming properties of the skin.
- Patent EP 1 338 270 describes the use of phenolic fractions of fruit extracts of the family Rosaceae, in particular the apple and more particularly the species Malus sylvestris, whose polyphenolic fraction is rich in dihydrochalcones allowing the preparation of useful compositions in cosmetics and nutraceuticals to limit overweight because of the effect of decreased absorption of sugars by skin tissue resulting mainly from the presence of phloridzin in the extracts.
- the apple also contains pectins that may be useful because of their cholesterol-lowering effect, as well as polyphenols with antioxidant action.
- the application WO 01/24806 describes dry extracts of apple branches likely to provide slimming effects.
- Fruit-based compositions have also been proposed in dermatology for treating various conditions, as described in WO 2004008887.
- cryoextract of apple juice may also have a positive effect on the release of beta-endorphins.
- Endorphins are endogenous opioid peptides, synthesized by the body, in particular by the hypothalamus, acting as a neurohormone providing analgesic and euphoric effects by binding to the same membrane receptors as morphine.
- the secretion of endorphins is therefore likely to provide a decrease in the sensation of stress and an improvement in well-being.
- the subject of the present invention is therefore the use of a cryoextract of apple juice, in a suitable concentration, in a cosmetic composition promoting the improvement of the comfort of the skin by an endorphin-releasing effect at the keratinocyte level.
- the subject of the invention is also the use of cryoextracts of apple juice for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for restoring and improving the comfort and well-being of the skin.
- the subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin by applying a composition based on cryoextract of apple juice to the area of the skin in need of such treatment, in particular the face and the neck.
- the subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a cryoextract of apple juice that can be used in a topical cosmetic composition that promotes the improvement of the comfort of the skin.
- beta-endorphin release at the keratinocyte level.
- the apple juice extracts according to the invention may be obtained from apple fruit of the family Rosaceae, preferably species Pyrus malus or Malus sylvestris Mill., Malus domestica, Malus pumila, Malus floribunda, Malus coronaria, etc. , of which a large number of varieties are known.
- the extracts used in the present invention are obtained from apple juice, preferably by cryomilling.
- the cryomilling technique used in the present invention makes it possible to preserve the essential components of apple juice and their organoleptic characteristics providing the effects described below.
- Techniques using frozen fruit are well known and for example CA 1258438 discloses a process for making apple juice for food purposes by freezing apples and thawing them out of the air before squeezing them. , to preserve the flavor of the fruits.
- the cryoextraction process essentially comprises the following steps:
- the apple freezing stage is preferably done at the harvesting site to avoid any risk of fruit degradation.
- the freezing temperature is preferably close to -28 ° C, that is to say generally between -26 and -30 ° C.
- Cryomilling makes it possible to obtain particles of average size generally less than 5 mm.
- the above cryomilling step is followed by a second cryogrinding at a lower temperature, for example of the order of -40 to -100 ° C.
- the product fractions obtained are preferably sieved.
- the particle size of the sieve may be of the order of 100 to 1,000 ⁇ .
- the cryoexpression of the crushed and screened fragments is preferably carried out under pressure at a temperature between 5 and -5 ° C., followed by further freezing at -10 to -90 ° C., for example -80 ° C. in a enclosure cooled with liquid nitrogen.
- the particles are suspended in a volume of water substantially equal to the volume of liquid extracted during pressing, and then a new pressing is carried out at a temperature of between 5 and -5 ° C. vs.
- the stages of cryoexpression that is to say the successive operations of freezing - suspending - pressing, can be repeated two to six times.
- the liquid coming from the pressing is filtered with a filter of particle size 100 to 500 ⁇ , and the filtrate is concentrated at a temperature of between 5 and -5 ° C., preferably by reverse osmosis.
- the concentrate is then frozen at a temperature of the order of -10 to -40 ° C. After recovery of the frozen fruit juice, and cold drying, allowed to return to room temperature and a stabilizer is added to ensure preservation, for example benzyl alcohol and dehydroacetic acid.
- the cryoextract can be lyophilized and the powder collected milled, which facilitates its subsequent incorporation into cosmetic compositions.
- the process used in the invention has the advantage of not using extraction solvents, the cryoexpression step being carried out under a stream of water under pressure.
- the apple extracts used in the compositions according to the present invention are preferably in the form of aqueous or hydroglycolic extracts, cold ground fruit, at a temperature below the freezing temperature of the apple juice.
- the extract that can be used in the composition of the invention is obtained from the fruits reduced to powder by cryomilling, and whose juice is extracted as indicated above and then stabilized by means of a preservative.
- suitable such as benzyl alcohol and dehydroacetic acid, to avoid any enzymatic or oxidizing action likely to denature the product.
- the aqueous cryoextract of apple used in the present invention was obtained from organic apples of sculpture (Pyrus malus) and is in the form of a pale yellow to amber liquid, of characteristic odor, soluble to 10% in water and partially soluble in ethanol, characterized by:
- AHA citric acid 0.54 - 0.64 g / l - total sugars 21.3 - 22.3 g / l
- the extract is relatively rich in alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) including citric acid, which represent 3.2% dry matter, and sugars.
- AHA alpha-hydroxy acids
- the cryoextract content of apple may be between 0.5 and 25%, and preferably between 2 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, to provide the best cosmetic effects .
- Cryoextracts can be used advantageously in a form encapsulated in liposomes.
- the liposomes are constituted by small hollow spheres, generally less than 500 nm in diameter, whose wall is formed of a double layer of lipids such as glucolipids or phospholipids. They can be obtained for example by ultrasonic treatment of a mixture of an aqueous solute and lipids. Lipids (phospholipids or glucolipids) are reorganized in a configuration where the energy of the whole is minimal, so thermodynamically the most stable. Liposomes are used in the cosmetics industry to deliver compounds into cells when the vesicle fuses with the plasma membrane.
- At least part of the cryoextras is encapsulated in liposome-type vesicles.
- compositions according to the present invention are preferably topically administrable.
- topical administration refers to any method of applying the substance or composition directly to the skin on the area requiring treatment.
- the topically administrable composition may advantageously contain, in addition to the basic components described above, one or more other substances known to have beneficial effects on the skin, and more particularly tocopherol, vitamin A (retinol), retinoic acid, bisabolol, Bacopa monnieri extract, bactericidal agents, monomethylsilanol, proline, or shea butter.
- composition extracts or compounds known to facilitate the penetration of the active ingredients of the composition through the epidermis for example saponosides of the hederagenin type.
- compositions in accordance with the present invention are preferably intended for topical administration, and therefore contain carriers and excipients commonly used in compositions of this type, such as O / W or W / O emulsions, creams and gels. or lotions.
- the fatty phase may represent between 10 and 60% of the weight of the composition, the aqueous phase between 10 and 80% and the emulsifier between 2 and 20%, the remainder being constituted by the components above and the other components listed below.
- the composition may also contain various substances and excipients chosen according to their known properties and the intended dosage form.
- preservatives emulsifiers, viscosifying agents, thickeners, gelling agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, surfactants, perfumes, oils, lipids
- a specific solvent as well as water and various additives for improving the physical properties of the composition.
- the emulsifier may be selected from high molecular weight carboxyvinyl polymers, polysorbates, sorbitan esters, and particularly a monostearate such as Span 60® , a tristearate, a monopalmitate, and a sorbitan laurate. It is also possible to use other emulsifying agents such as various stearic or palmitic acid derivatives, and for example PEG 100® stearate, mono- or diglycerides of stearic or palmitic acid, self-emulsifiable propylene glycol stearate.
- the viscosifying agents used in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from various polymers of acrylic acid, a copolymer of acrylate and acryloyl laurate, a cellulose gum, a silica, carboxyl-vinyl polymers, a silicate of aluminum and magnesium, and can be used for example colloidal silica sold under the trademark Aerosil 200 ® or a crosslinked polyacrylic acid such as Carbopol 940 ®.
- the gelling agents or thickeners may be chosen for example from polyacrylamides, acrylates such as Pemulen®, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, or natural gums.
- the chelating agents make it possible to improve the stability of the products over time and can be chosen for example from disodium or tetrasodium EDTA, oxalic acid or galactaric acid.
- the moisturizing agents used may be chosen, for example, from a polyol, sorbitol, maltitol, xylitol, pentaerythritol, butylene glycol, D-panthotenyl alcohol (Panthenol), glyceryl polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, glycerol or glycerol derivatives or a hydrating clay such as Veegum HV (magnesium aluminum silicate) which also has the effect of stabilizing the emulsion. It is also possible to add emollients such as alkyl malate, isohexadecane, capric or caprylic acid triglycerides, etc.
- emollients such as alkyl malate, isohexadecane, capric or caprylic acid triglycerides, etc.
- the usual preservatives of the technique of dermatological or cosmetological compositions can be used in the invention, and for example dehydroacetic acid and its sodium salt, benzoic acid and an alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as p-hydroxy methyl benzoate (Methylparaben), an alcohol such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol or chlorphenesine or imidazolidinyl urea.
- dehydroacetic acid and its sodium salt benzoic acid and an alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as p-hydroxy methyl benzoate (Methylparaben)
- an alcohol such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol or chlorphenesine or imidazolidinyl urea.
- the constituents of the fatty phase can be chosen from jojoba oil, corn oil, liquid petroleum jelly, sweet almond oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, safflower oil, saturated fatty acid glycerides, stearic acid, palmitic acid, octyl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, octyl palmitate, triglyceride acids caprylic and caprylic, 2-octyl-dodecanol, polyethylene glycol, 2-ethyl hexyl adipate, or silicone oils such as methyl phenyl polysiloxane, dimethicone, cyclomethicone and phenyl dimethicone.
- the composition may also contain a solvent chosen according to the components used and the intended form of administration.
- the solvent may be for example water, and preferably demineralised water, or a specific solvent such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol-1, 3, butylene glycol-1, 4, a diethylene ether glycol, or an alcohol such as ethanol.
- Ultraviolet protection agents may also advantageously be incorporated in the compositions, and for example hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens. It is also possible to use anti-ultraviolet screen pigments such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide.
- the pH of the composition is preferably between 5.3 and 7.5, and may be adjusted, depending on the compositions, by the addition of an acid such as citric acid or a base such as sodium or potassium.
- composition in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), transdermal patches, mask or ointment, containing usual excipients and carriers compatible and physiologically acceptable.
- These forms of topical administration are prepared by the known techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion.
- creams it is preferred to use lamellar structure emulsions containing little or no ethoxylated products.
- the apple extract used in the invention is introduced into the aqueous or alcoholic phase.
- topical compositions in accordance with the invention in the form of creams, lotions or gels, which can be used in one or several daily applications, the duration of treatment may be generally of the order of one to three months or more, the compositions can be used without inconvenience in a continuous manner.
- compositions given below illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. Unless otherwise indicated, parts and percentages are by weight.
- a tonic lotion based on apple cryoextract having the composition indicated below is prepared according to the usual techniques:
- the apples used to prepare the cryoextrate incorporated in this composition are organic apples from EUR.
- This lotion is used topically, once or twice a day on the areas of the skin to be treated, for example on the face and neck, for a period of 1 to 3 months depending on the desired effect.
- Example 2
- a cream based on cryoextract organic apple of phenomenon having the composition indicated below is prepared according to the usual techniques:
- aqueous phase A is heated to 70 ° C to form a gel while the fat phase B is heated to about 70 ° C to melt the components, and then the two phases are thoroughly mixed with stirring.
- Phase C after homogenization, is added to the mixture at a temperature of about 60 ° C. and then phase D at about 50 ° C. The whole is mixed and gradually cooled.
- This cream can be used per application on the areas of the skin to be treated, once or twice a day, for a period of one to three months.
- a night cream based on cryoextract organic apple of phenomenon having the composition indicated below is prepared according to the usual techniques:
- Phases A and B are heated to 80 ° C and mixed thoroughly.
- Phase C is heated and added to the above mixture at 65 ° C, then phases D to G are added successively at 50 ° C.
- the perfume is added at about 40 ° C.
- the pH is adjusted to 6.2 by the addition of 1/10 sodium hydroxide solution.
- the cytotoxicity of apple cryoextras according to the invention has been studied with respect to human keratinocytes in culture.
- the method used is that of enzymatic digestion for obtaining primocultures of keratinocytes from a human skin biopsy.
- the tests are performed on keratinocytes between the 2 nd and 4 th passage to ensure good reproducibility between different experiments.
- Lot 1 witness not receiving any product.
- the wells containing the cells are emptied by gentle inversion and the cell mat is rinsed with the culture medium.
- 200 ⁇ l of a solution of MTT (3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) diluted at the time of use (1/10) is dispensed into all the wells, then the plates are incubated at 37 ° C for 3 hours.
- the wells are again emptied by gentle inversion and replaced for 1 minutes with 200 ⁇ l of a calcium formaldehyde solution to fix the cell layer.
- the formation of Formazan blue crystals is observed.
- the cells are then lysed and the Formazan blue crystals are dissolved by adding 200 ⁇ l of dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO).
- DMSO dimethylsulfoxide
- the optical density (OD) of the plates is read, by means of a spectrophotometer at 570 nm, which makes it possible to know the relative quantity of living and metabolically active cells.
- optical density (OD) after 24 hours of contact are summarized in the table below.
- Control and cryoextract groups varying from 0.1 to 1.0% were formed as in Example 4.
- the assay was performed in triplicate after 24 hours of cell contact with each lot.
- the assay for released beta-endorphin was performed using an ELISA kit from Kamiya Biomedical Company.
- cryoextract of the invention at concentrations of 0.5% and 1.0%, induces a significant increase in the release of beta-endorphin at the level of human keratinocytes in culture, the increase being 1%. % and 14% respectively.
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1251222A FR2986707B1 (fr) | 2012-02-09 | 2012-02-09 | Composition comprenant un extrait de jus de pomme pour le confort cutane. |
PCT/FR2013/050260 WO2013117865A2 (fr) | 2012-02-09 | 2013-02-07 | Utilisation d'un extrait de jus de pomme dans une composition cosmetique pour le confort cutane |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP2811976A2 true EP2811976A2 (fr) | 2014-12-17 |
Family
ID=47754840
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP13706651.0A Withdrawn EP2811976A2 (fr) | 2012-02-09 | 2013-02-07 | Utilisation d'un extrait de jus de pomme dans une composition cosmetique pour le confort cutane |
Country Status (3)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP2811976A2 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR2986707B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2013117865A2 (fr) |
Family Cites Families (10)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CA1258438A (fr) * | 1985-07-09 | 1989-08-15 | David W.S. Riddell | Procede de production de jus et de vin de pommes |
FR2653664B1 (fr) | 1989-10-27 | 1992-02-07 | Jean Daniel | Compositions a base de suc et de protoplastes de vegetaux, leur procede d'obtention et leurs utilisations, notamment dans le domaine de la phytotherapie. |
FR2719473B1 (fr) * | 1994-05-04 | 1996-06-21 | Rocher Yves Biolog Vegetale | Procédé pour accélérer le renouvellement cellulaire de la peau et compositions cosmétiques pour sa mise en Óoeuvre. |
FR2799121B1 (fr) | 1999-10-01 | 2004-02-13 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | Extraits de branches de pommiers utiles en dermocosmetologie et leur procede de preparation |
RU2161950C1 (ru) * | 2000-06-14 | 2001-01-20 | Успенская Светлана Игоревна | Лосьон для ухода за кожей рук |
CN1433714A (zh) * | 2002-01-22 | 2003-08-06 | 王忠民 | 一种苹果原汁的制取方法 |
FR2836336B1 (fr) | 2002-02-26 | 2004-08-27 | Diana Ingredients | Utilisation dans un traitement cosmetique d'une fraction phenolique riche en dihydrochalcones |
AU2002950308A0 (en) * | 2002-07-23 | 2002-09-12 | Phoenix Eagle Company Pty Ltd | Topically applied composition |
FR2916972B1 (fr) * | 2007-06-07 | 2010-01-29 | Occitane L | Composition cosmetique ou dermatologique a base de pomme et son utilisation. |
KR101054118B1 (ko) * | 2009-02-23 | 2011-08-03 | 한국식품연구원 | 사과주스의 제조방법 및 사과주스 조성물 |
-
2012
- 2012-02-09 FR FR1251222A patent/FR2986707B1/fr active Active
-
2013
- 2013-02-07 WO PCT/FR2013/050260 patent/WO2013117865A2/fr active Application Filing
- 2013-02-07 EP EP13706651.0A patent/EP2811976A2/fr not_active Withdrawn
Non-Patent Citations (2)
Title |
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None * |
See also references of WO2013117865A2 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
FR2986707B1 (fr) | 2015-09-25 |
WO2013117865A3 (fr) | 2014-04-10 |
FR2986707A1 (fr) | 2013-08-16 |
WO2013117865A2 (fr) | 2013-08-15 |
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