EP2811976A2 - Use of an apple juice extract in a cosmetic skin-comforting composition - Google Patents

Use of an apple juice extract in a cosmetic skin-comforting composition

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Publication number
EP2811976A2
EP2811976A2 EP13706651.0A EP13706651A EP2811976A2 EP 2811976 A2 EP2811976 A2 EP 2811976A2 EP 13706651 A EP13706651 A EP 13706651A EP 2811976 A2 EP2811976 A2 EP 2811976A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cryoextract
apple
composition
skin
malus
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP13706651.0A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Nadine Leconte
Jacques Leclere
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Societe de Recherche Cosmetique SARL
Original Assignee
Societe de Recherche Cosmetique SARL
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Societe de Recherche Cosmetique SARL filed Critical Societe de Recherche Cosmetique SARL
Publication of EP2811976A2 publication Critical patent/EP2811976A2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/24—Thermal properties

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new composition comprising an extract of apple juice, used in cosmetics, more particularly a composition comprising a cryoextract of apple juice, to ensure or restore the comfort of the skin.
  • the skin consists of superficial layers, namely the epidermis, and deeper layers, the dermis and hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment.
  • the epidermis which is composed of three types of cells, namely keratinocytes (90% of epidermal cells), melanocytes (2 to 3% of epidermal cells) and Langerhans cells, constitutes the outer layer and plays a role. fundamental to ensure the protection and maintenance of good trophicity.
  • the dermis serves as a support for the epidermis and consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix essentially based on collagen and elastin.
  • Collagen fibers contribute to the texture and tone of the skin and elastin is responsible for its elasticity.
  • Other cells such as macrophages and leucocytes, are also present in the dermis layer.
  • the hypodermis which is the deepest layer of skin, contains lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a fat layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.
  • the skin is a real organ whose main function is the anatomical barrier function isolating the body from its external environment, while constituting a zone of exchange between the body and its environment, and protecting against external aggression.
  • Healthy skin is usually smooth, soft and supple, with a clear complexion. It is desirable to preserve the health of the skin and maintain its well-being and comfort.
  • plant extracts include fruit tree extracts, for example bark, leaves and fruits, depending on the desired effects, in particular various plants of the family Rosaceae, such as pear and apple.
  • the apple tree (Pyrus malus) is one of the most cultivated fruit trees in the world, in China, North America and Europe, in generally temperate regions, producing many varieties of fruit.
  • the fruit of the apple tree has been used for many years in cosmetics, for example to prepare masks that can be temporarily applied to the skin, generally for a moisturizing effect of the skin, and also a slightly astringent effect intended to tighten the pores of the skin.
  • FR 2,719,473 describes a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a dry extract of Rosaceae fruit juice such as pear, apple, plum, apricot, etc., rich in malic acid, citric acid and sorbitol having an antiradical effect and an effect promoting cell renewal.
  • Patent FR 2 916 972 describes cosmetic compositions based on apple extracts, apple vinegar, glycoproteins, silicon and essential oil with firming properties of the skin.
  • Patent EP 1 338 270 describes the use of phenolic fractions of fruit extracts of the family Rosaceae, in particular the apple and more particularly the species Malus sylvestris, whose polyphenolic fraction is rich in dihydrochalcones allowing the preparation of useful compositions in cosmetics and nutraceuticals to limit overweight because of the effect of decreased absorption of sugars by skin tissue resulting mainly from the presence of phloridzin in the extracts.
  • the apple also contains pectins that may be useful because of their cholesterol-lowering effect, as well as polyphenols with antioxidant action.
  • the application WO 01/24806 describes dry extracts of apple branches likely to provide slimming effects.
  • Fruit-based compositions have also been proposed in dermatology for treating various conditions, as described in WO 2004008887.
  • cryoextract of apple juice may also have a positive effect on the release of beta-endorphins.
  • Endorphins are endogenous opioid peptides, synthesized by the body, in particular by the hypothalamus, acting as a neurohormone providing analgesic and euphoric effects by binding to the same membrane receptors as morphine.
  • the secretion of endorphins is therefore likely to provide a decrease in the sensation of stress and an improvement in well-being.
  • the subject of the present invention is therefore the use of a cryoextract of apple juice, in a suitable concentration, in a cosmetic composition promoting the improvement of the comfort of the skin by an endorphin-releasing effect at the keratinocyte level.
  • the subject of the invention is also the use of cryoextracts of apple juice for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for restoring and improving the comfort and well-being of the skin.
  • the subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin by applying a composition based on cryoextract of apple juice to the area of the skin in need of such treatment, in particular the face and the neck.
  • the subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a cryoextract of apple juice that can be used in a topical cosmetic composition that promotes the improvement of the comfort of the skin.
  • beta-endorphin release at the keratinocyte level.
  • the apple juice extracts according to the invention may be obtained from apple fruit of the family Rosaceae, preferably species Pyrus malus or Malus sylvestris Mill., Malus domestica, Malus pumila, Malus floribunda, Malus coronaria, etc. , of which a large number of varieties are known.
  • the extracts used in the present invention are obtained from apple juice, preferably by cryomilling.
  • the cryomilling technique used in the present invention makes it possible to preserve the essential components of apple juice and their organoleptic characteristics providing the effects described below.
  • Techniques using frozen fruit are well known and for example CA 1258438 discloses a process for making apple juice for food purposes by freezing apples and thawing them out of the air before squeezing them. , to preserve the flavor of the fruits.
  • the cryoextraction process essentially comprises the following steps:
  • the apple freezing stage is preferably done at the harvesting site to avoid any risk of fruit degradation.
  • the freezing temperature is preferably close to -28 ° C, that is to say generally between -26 and -30 ° C.
  • Cryomilling makes it possible to obtain particles of average size generally less than 5 mm.
  • the above cryomilling step is followed by a second cryogrinding at a lower temperature, for example of the order of -40 to -100 ° C.
  • the product fractions obtained are preferably sieved.
  • the particle size of the sieve may be of the order of 100 to 1,000 ⁇ .
  • the cryoexpression of the crushed and screened fragments is preferably carried out under pressure at a temperature between 5 and -5 ° C., followed by further freezing at -10 to -90 ° C., for example -80 ° C. in a enclosure cooled with liquid nitrogen.
  • the particles are suspended in a volume of water substantially equal to the volume of liquid extracted during pressing, and then a new pressing is carried out at a temperature of between 5 and -5 ° C. vs.
  • the stages of cryoexpression that is to say the successive operations of freezing - suspending - pressing, can be repeated two to six times.
  • the liquid coming from the pressing is filtered with a filter of particle size 100 to 500 ⁇ , and the filtrate is concentrated at a temperature of between 5 and -5 ° C., preferably by reverse osmosis.
  • the concentrate is then frozen at a temperature of the order of -10 to -40 ° C. After recovery of the frozen fruit juice, and cold drying, allowed to return to room temperature and a stabilizer is added to ensure preservation, for example benzyl alcohol and dehydroacetic acid.
  • the cryoextract can be lyophilized and the powder collected milled, which facilitates its subsequent incorporation into cosmetic compositions.
  • the process used in the invention has the advantage of not using extraction solvents, the cryoexpression step being carried out under a stream of water under pressure.
  • the apple extracts used in the compositions according to the present invention are preferably in the form of aqueous or hydroglycolic extracts, cold ground fruit, at a temperature below the freezing temperature of the apple juice.
  • the extract that can be used in the composition of the invention is obtained from the fruits reduced to powder by cryomilling, and whose juice is extracted as indicated above and then stabilized by means of a preservative.
  • suitable such as benzyl alcohol and dehydroacetic acid, to avoid any enzymatic or oxidizing action likely to denature the product.
  • the aqueous cryoextract of apple used in the present invention was obtained from organic apples of sculpture (Pyrus malus) and is in the form of a pale yellow to amber liquid, of characteristic odor, soluble to 10% in water and partially soluble in ethanol, characterized by:
  • AHA citric acid 0.54 - 0.64 g / l - total sugars 21.3 - 22.3 g / l
  • the extract is relatively rich in alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) including citric acid, which represent 3.2% dry matter, and sugars.
  • AHA alpha-hydroxy acids
  • the cryoextract content of apple may be between 0.5 and 25%, and preferably between 2 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, to provide the best cosmetic effects .
  • Cryoextracts can be used advantageously in a form encapsulated in liposomes.
  • the liposomes are constituted by small hollow spheres, generally less than 500 nm in diameter, whose wall is formed of a double layer of lipids such as glucolipids or phospholipids. They can be obtained for example by ultrasonic treatment of a mixture of an aqueous solute and lipids. Lipids (phospholipids or glucolipids) are reorganized in a configuration where the energy of the whole is minimal, so thermodynamically the most stable. Liposomes are used in the cosmetics industry to deliver compounds into cells when the vesicle fuses with the plasma membrane.
  • At least part of the cryoextras is encapsulated in liposome-type vesicles.
  • compositions according to the present invention are preferably topically administrable.
  • topical administration refers to any method of applying the substance or composition directly to the skin on the area requiring treatment.
  • the topically administrable composition may advantageously contain, in addition to the basic components described above, one or more other substances known to have beneficial effects on the skin, and more particularly tocopherol, vitamin A (retinol), retinoic acid, bisabolol, Bacopa monnieri extract, bactericidal agents, monomethylsilanol, proline, or shea butter.
  • composition extracts or compounds known to facilitate the penetration of the active ingredients of the composition through the epidermis for example saponosides of the hederagenin type.
  • compositions in accordance with the present invention are preferably intended for topical administration, and therefore contain carriers and excipients commonly used in compositions of this type, such as O / W or W / O emulsions, creams and gels. or lotions.
  • the fatty phase may represent between 10 and 60% of the weight of the composition, the aqueous phase between 10 and 80% and the emulsifier between 2 and 20%, the remainder being constituted by the components above and the other components listed below.
  • the composition may also contain various substances and excipients chosen according to their known properties and the intended dosage form.
  • preservatives emulsifiers, viscosifying agents, thickeners, gelling agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, surfactants, perfumes, oils, lipids
  • a specific solvent as well as water and various additives for improving the physical properties of the composition.
  • the emulsifier may be selected from high molecular weight carboxyvinyl polymers, polysorbates, sorbitan esters, and particularly a monostearate such as Span 60® , a tristearate, a monopalmitate, and a sorbitan laurate. It is also possible to use other emulsifying agents such as various stearic or palmitic acid derivatives, and for example PEG 100® stearate, mono- or diglycerides of stearic or palmitic acid, self-emulsifiable propylene glycol stearate.
  • the viscosifying agents used in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from various polymers of acrylic acid, a copolymer of acrylate and acryloyl laurate, a cellulose gum, a silica, carboxyl-vinyl polymers, a silicate of aluminum and magnesium, and can be used for example colloidal silica sold under the trademark Aerosil 200 ® or a crosslinked polyacrylic acid such as Carbopol 940 ®.
  • the gelling agents or thickeners may be chosen for example from polyacrylamides, acrylates such as Pemulen®, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, or natural gums.
  • the chelating agents make it possible to improve the stability of the products over time and can be chosen for example from disodium or tetrasodium EDTA, oxalic acid or galactaric acid.
  • the moisturizing agents used may be chosen, for example, from a polyol, sorbitol, maltitol, xylitol, pentaerythritol, butylene glycol, D-panthotenyl alcohol (Panthenol), glyceryl polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, glycerol or glycerol derivatives or a hydrating clay such as Veegum HV (magnesium aluminum silicate) which also has the effect of stabilizing the emulsion. It is also possible to add emollients such as alkyl malate, isohexadecane, capric or caprylic acid triglycerides, etc.
  • emollients such as alkyl malate, isohexadecane, capric or caprylic acid triglycerides, etc.
  • the usual preservatives of the technique of dermatological or cosmetological compositions can be used in the invention, and for example dehydroacetic acid and its sodium salt, benzoic acid and an alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as p-hydroxy methyl benzoate (Methylparaben), an alcohol such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol or chlorphenesine or imidazolidinyl urea.
  • dehydroacetic acid and its sodium salt benzoic acid and an alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as p-hydroxy methyl benzoate (Methylparaben)
  • an alcohol such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol or chlorphenesine or imidazolidinyl urea.
  • the constituents of the fatty phase can be chosen from jojoba oil, corn oil, liquid petroleum jelly, sweet almond oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, safflower oil, saturated fatty acid glycerides, stearic acid, palmitic acid, octyl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, octyl palmitate, triglyceride acids caprylic and caprylic, 2-octyl-dodecanol, polyethylene glycol, 2-ethyl hexyl adipate, or silicone oils such as methyl phenyl polysiloxane, dimethicone, cyclomethicone and phenyl dimethicone.
  • the composition may also contain a solvent chosen according to the components used and the intended form of administration.
  • the solvent may be for example water, and preferably demineralised water, or a specific solvent such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol-1, 3, butylene glycol-1, 4, a diethylene ether glycol, or an alcohol such as ethanol.
  • Ultraviolet protection agents may also advantageously be incorporated in the compositions, and for example hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens. It is also possible to use anti-ultraviolet screen pigments such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide.
  • the pH of the composition is preferably between 5.3 and 7.5, and may be adjusted, depending on the compositions, by the addition of an acid such as citric acid or a base such as sodium or potassium.
  • composition in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), transdermal patches, mask or ointment, containing usual excipients and carriers compatible and physiologically acceptable.
  • These forms of topical administration are prepared by the known techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • creams it is preferred to use lamellar structure emulsions containing little or no ethoxylated products.
  • the apple extract used in the invention is introduced into the aqueous or alcoholic phase.
  • topical compositions in accordance with the invention in the form of creams, lotions or gels, which can be used in one or several daily applications, the duration of treatment may be generally of the order of one to three months or more, the compositions can be used without inconvenience in a continuous manner.
  • compositions given below illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. Unless otherwise indicated, parts and percentages are by weight.
  • a tonic lotion based on apple cryoextract having the composition indicated below is prepared according to the usual techniques:
  • the apples used to prepare the cryoextrate incorporated in this composition are organic apples from EUR.
  • This lotion is used topically, once or twice a day on the areas of the skin to be treated, for example on the face and neck, for a period of 1 to 3 months depending on the desired effect.
  • Example 2
  • a cream based on cryoextract organic apple of phenomenon having the composition indicated below is prepared according to the usual techniques:
  • aqueous phase A is heated to 70 ° C to form a gel while the fat phase B is heated to about 70 ° C to melt the components, and then the two phases are thoroughly mixed with stirring.
  • Phase C after homogenization, is added to the mixture at a temperature of about 60 ° C. and then phase D at about 50 ° C. The whole is mixed and gradually cooled.
  • This cream can be used per application on the areas of the skin to be treated, once or twice a day, for a period of one to three months.
  • a night cream based on cryoextract organic apple of phenomenon having the composition indicated below is prepared according to the usual techniques:
  • Phases A and B are heated to 80 ° C and mixed thoroughly.
  • Phase C is heated and added to the above mixture at 65 ° C, then phases D to G are added successively at 50 ° C.
  • the perfume is added at about 40 ° C.
  • the pH is adjusted to 6.2 by the addition of 1/10 sodium hydroxide solution.
  • the cytotoxicity of apple cryoextras according to the invention has been studied with respect to human keratinocytes in culture.
  • the method used is that of enzymatic digestion for obtaining primocultures of keratinocytes from a human skin biopsy.
  • the tests are performed on keratinocytes between the 2 nd and 4 th passage to ensure good reproducibility between different experiments.
  • Lot 1 witness not receiving any product.
  • the wells containing the cells are emptied by gentle inversion and the cell mat is rinsed with the culture medium.
  • 200 ⁇ l of a solution of MTT (3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) diluted at the time of use (1/10) is dispensed into all the wells, then the plates are incubated at 37 ° C for 3 hours.
  • the wells are again emptied by gentle inversion and replaced for 1 minutes with 200 ⁇ l of a calcium formaldehyde solution to fix the cell layer.
  • the formation of Formazan blue crystals is observed.
  • the cells are then lysed and the Formazan blue crystals are dissolved by adding 200 ⁇ l of dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO).
  • DMSO dimethylsulfoxide
  • the optical density (OD) of the plates is read, by means of a spectrophotometer at 570 nm, which makes it possible to know the relative quantity of living and metabolically active cells.
  • optical density (OD) after 24 hours of contact are summarized in the table below.
  • Control and cryoextract groups varying from 0.1 to 1.0% were formed as in Example 4.
  • the assay was performed in triplicate after 24 hours of cell contact with each lot.
  • the assay for released beta-endorphin was performed using an ELISA kit from Kamiya Biomedical Company.
  • cryoextract of the invention at concentrations of 0.5% and 1.0%, induces a significant increase in the release of beta-endorphin at the level of human keratinocytes in culture, the increase being 1%. % and 14% respectively.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for use in cosmetics. The composition comprises an effective quantity of a cryoextract of apple juice, in order to maintain or restore the skin's comfort level. The invention is suitable for cosmetic compositions intended to maintain or restore the skin's comfort.

Description

UTILISATION D'UN EXTRAIT DE JUS DE POMME DANS UNE COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE POUR LE CONFORT CUTANE  USE OF APPLE JUICE EXTRACT IN COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN COMFORT
La présente invention concerne une nouvelle composition comprenant un extrait de jus de pomme, utilisable en cosmétique, plus particulièrement une composition comprenant un cryoextrait de jus de pomme, pour assurer ou rétablir le confort de la peau. The present invention relates to a new composition comprising an extract of apple juice, used in cosmetics, more particularly a composition comprising a cryoextract of apple juice, to ensure or restore the comfort of the skin.
La peau comprend des couches superficielles, à savoir l'épiderme, et des couches plus profondes, le derme et l'hypoderme, et chacune possède des propriétés spécifiques permettant à l'ensemble de réagir et s'adapter aux conditions de son environnement. L'épiderme, qui est composé de trois types de cellules, à savoir des kératinocytes (90% des cellules épidermiques), des mélanocytes (2 à 3% des cellules épidermiques) et des cellules de Langerhans, constitue la couche externe et joue un rôle fondamental pour assurer la protection et le maintien d'une bonne trophicité. Le derme sert de support à l'épiderme et est principalement constitué de fibroblastes et d'une matrice extracellulaire essentiellement à base de collagène et d'élastine. Les fibres de collagène contribuent à la texture et la tonicité de la peau et l'élastine est responsable de son élasticité. D'autres cellules, comme les macrophages et les leucocytes, sont également présentes dans la couche du derme. L'hypoderme, qui est la couche la plus profonde de la peau, contient les adipocytes qui produisent des lipides pour que le tissu sous-cutané fabrique une couche grasse protégeant les muscles, les os et les organes internes contre les chocs.  The skin consists of superficial layers, namely the epidermis, and deeper layers, the dermis and hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment. The epidermis, which is composed of three types of cells, namely keratinocytes (90% of epidermal cells), melanocytes (2 to 3% of epidermal cells) and Langerhans cells, constitutes the outer layer and plays a role. fundamental to ensure the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. The dermis serves as a support for the epidermis and consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix essentially based on collagen and elastin. Collagen fibers contribute to the texture and tone of the skin and elastin is responsible for its elasticity. Other cells, such as macrophages and leucocytes, are also present in the dermis layer. The hypodermis, which is the deepest layer of skin, contains lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a fat layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.
Ainsi la peau constitue un véritable organe dont la fonction principale est la fonction barrière anatomique isolant l'organisme de son environnement extérieur, tout en constituant une zone d'échange entre le corps et son environnement, et le protégeant contre les agressions externes. Une peau en bonne santé est généralement lisse, douce et souple, avec un teint clair. Il est souhaitable de préserver la santé de la peau et de maintenir son bien-être et son confort. A cet effet, un grand nombre d'extraits de plantes ont été proposés comme matières de compositions cosmétiques, y compris des extraits d'arbres fruitiers, par exemple l'écorce, les feuilles et les fruits, en fonction des effets recherchés, notamment de diverses plantes de la famille des Rosaceae, telles que poiriers et pommiers. Thus the skin is a real organ whose main function is the anatomical barrier function isolating the body from its external environment, while constituting a zone of exchange between the body and its environment, and protecting against external aggression. Healthy skin is usually smooth, soft and supple, with a clear complexion. It is desirable to preserve the health of the skin and maintain its well-being and comfort. For this purpose, a large number of plant extracts have been proposed as materials for cosmetic compositions, including fruit tree extracts, for example bark, leaves and fruits, depending on the desired effects, in particular various plants of the family Rosaceae, such as pear and apple.
Le pommier (Pyrus malus) est un des arbres fruitiers les plus cultivés dans le monde, en Chine, en Amérique du Nord et en Europe, dans des régions généralement tempérées, produisant de nombreuses variétés de fruits.  The apple tree (Pyrus malus) is one of the most cultivated fruit trees in the world, in China, North America and Europe, in generally temperate regions, producing many varieties of fruit.
Le fruit du pommier a été utilisé depuis de nombreuses années en cosmétique, par exemple pour préparer des masques que l'on peut appliquer momentanément sur la peau, généralement en vue d'un effet d'hydratation de la peau, et aussi d'un effet légèrement astringent destiné à resserrer les pores de la peau.  The fruit of the apple tree has been used for many years in cosmetics, for example to prepare masks that can be temporarily applied to the skin, generally for a moisturizing effect of the skin, and also a slightly astringent effect intended to tighten the pores of the skin.
Diverses compositions cosmétiques contenant des extraits de pomme ont été proposées en cosmétique, et par exemple des extraits de fruit de Pyrus malus sont utilisés dans des shampooings et dans des crèmes de soins cosmétiques. La pomme contient aussi des pectines qui peuvent être utiles en raison de leur effet hypocholestérolémiant.  Various cosmetic compositions containing apple extracts have been proposed in cosmetics, and for example extracts of Pyrus malus fruit are used in shampoos and in cosmetic creams. The apple also contains pectins that may be useful because of their cholesterol-lowering effect.
Ainsi, le brevet FR 2.719.473 décrit une composition cosmétique comprenant un extrait sec de jus de fruit de Rosaceae tel que poire, pomme, prune, abricot, etc, riche en acide malique, en acide citrique et en sorbitol présentant un effet antiradicalaire et un effet favorisant le renouvellement cellulaire. Le brevet FR 2.916.972 décrit des compositions cosmétiques à base d'extraits de pommes, de vinaigre de pommes, de glycoprotéines, de silicium et d'huile essentielle présentant des propriétés raffermissantes de la peau. Le brevet EP 1 .338.270 décrit l'utilisation de fractions phénoliques d'extraits de fruits de la famille des Rosaceae, notamment la pomme et plus particulièrement l'espèce Malus sylvestris, dont la fraction polyphénolique est riche en dihydrochalcones permettant la préparation de compositions utiles en cosmétique et en nutraceutique pour limiter la surcharge pondérale en raison de l'effet de diminution de l'absorption des sucres par les tissus cutanés résultant principalement de la présence de phloridzine dans les extraits. La pomme contient aussi des pectines qui peuvent être utiles en raison de leur effet hypocholestérolémiant, ainsi que des polyphénols à action anti-oxydante. La demande WO 01 /24806 décrit des extraits secs de branches de pommier susceptibles de procurer des effets amincissants. Des compositions à base de fruits ont aussi été proposées en dermatologie pour traiter diverses affections, comme décrit dans la demande WO 2004008887. Thus, FR 2,719,473 describes a cosmetic composition comprising a dry extract of Rosaceae fruit juice such as pear, apple, plum, apricot, etc., rich in malic acid, citric acid and sorbitol having an antiradical effect and an effect promoting cell renewal. Patent FR 2 916 972 describes cosmetic compositions based on apple extracts, apple vinegar, glycoproteins, silicon and essential oil with firming properties of the skin. Patent EP 1 338 270 describes the use of phenolic fractions of fruit extracts of the family Rosaceae, in particular the apple and more particularly the species Malus sylvestris, whose polyphenolic fraction is rich in dihydrochalcones allowing the preparation of useful compositions in cosmetics and nutraceuticals to limit overweight because of the effect of decreased absorption of sugars by skin tissue resulting mainly from the presence of phloridzin in the extracts. The apple also contains pectins that may be useful because of their cholesterol-lowering effect, as well as polyphenols with antioxidant action. The application WO 01/24806 describes dry extracts of apple branches likely to provide slimming effects. Fruit-based compositions have also been proposed in dermatology for treating various conditions, as described in WO 2004008887.
Par contre, les études réalisées par la demanderesse sur des kératinocytes humains en culture ont montré de manière inattendue qu'un cryoextrait de jus de pomme pouvait aussi présenter un effet positif sur la libération des bêta- endorphines.  On the other hand, the studies carried out by the Applicant on human keratinocytes in culture have unexpectedly shown that cryoextract of apple juice may also have a positive effect on the release of beta-endorphins.
Les endorphines sont des peptides opioïdes endogènes, synthétisés par l'organisme, en particulier par l'hypothalamus, se comportant comme une neurohormone procurant des effets analgésiques et euphorisants en se fixant sur les mêmes récepteurs membranaires que la morphine. La sécrétion d'endorphines est donc susceptible de procurer une diminution de la sensation de stress et une amélioration du bien-être.  Endorphins are endogenous opioid peptides, synthesized by the body, in particular by the hypothalamus, acting as a neurohormone providing analgesic and euphoric effects by binding to the same membrane receptors as morphine. The secretion of endorphins is therefore likely to provide a decrease in the sensation of stress and an improvement in well-being.
La présente invention a donc pour objet l'utilisation d'un cryoextrait de jus de pomme, en une concentration appropriée, dans une composition cosmétique favorisant l'amélioration du confort de la peau par un effet de libération d'endorphines au niveau des kératinocytes.  The subject of the present invention is therefore the use of a cryoextract of apple juice, in a suitable concentration, in a cosmetic composition promoting the improvement of the comfort of the skin by an endorphin-releasing effect at the keratinocyte level.
L'invention a également pour objet l'utilisation de cryoextraits de jus de pomme pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique pour le rétablissement et l'amélioration du confort et du bien-être de la peau.  The subject of the invention is also the use of cryoextracts of apple juice for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for restoring and improving the comfort and well-being of the skin.
L'invention a encore pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau par application d'une composition à base de cryoextrait de jus de pomme sur la zone de la peau nécessitant un tel traitement, notamment la face et le cou. L'invention a encore pour objet un procédé de préparation d'un cryoextrait de jus de pomme utilisable dans une composition cosmétique topique favorisant l'amélioration du confort de la peau. The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin by applying a composition based on cryoextract of apple juice to the area of the skin in need of such treatment, in particular the face and the neck. The subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a cryoextract of apple juice that can be used in a topical cosmetic composition that promotes the improvement of the comfort of the skin.
Plus particulièrement, il a été démontré qu'un cryoextrait de jus de pomme selon l'invention  More particularly, it has been demonstrated that a cryoextract of apple juice according to the invention
présente une parfaite innocuité vis-à-vis des kératinocytes humains en culture ;  has a perfect innocuity vis-à-vis the human keratinocytes in culture;
induit un effet significatif sur la libération de bêta-endorphine au niveau des kératinocytes.  induces a significant effect on beta-endorphin release at the keratinocyte level.
Les extraits de jus de pomme suivant l'invention peuvent être obtenus à partir de fruits de pommiers de la famille des Rosaceae, de préférence des espèces Pyrus malus ou Malus sylvestris Mill., Malus domestica, Malus pumila, Malus floribunda, Malus coronaria, etc, dont on connaît un grand nombre de variétés.  The apple juice extracts according to the invention may be obtained from apple fruit of the family Rosaceae, preferably species Pyrus malus or Malus sylvestris Mill., Malus domestica, Malus pumila, Malus floribunda, Malus coronaria, etc. , of which a large number of varieties are known.
Les extraits utilisés dans la présente invention sont obtenus à partir du jus de pomme, de préférence par cryobroyage.  The extracts used in the present invention are obtained from apple juice, preferably by cryomilling.
La technique de cryobroyage utilisée dans la présente invention permet de préserver les composants essentiels du jus de pomme et leurs caractéristiques organoleptiques procurant les effets décrits ci-après. Des techniques utilisant des fruits congelés sont bien connues et par exemple le brevet CA 1258438 décrit un procédé de préparation de jus de pomme à usage alimentaire consistant à congeler les pommes, puis à les décongeler à l'abri de l'air avant de les presser, pour préserver la saveur des fruits.  The cryomilling technique used in the present invention makes it possible to preserve the essential components of apple juice and their organoleptic characteristics providing the effects described below. Techniques using frozen fruit are well known and for example CA 1258438 discloses a process for making apple juice for food purposes by freezing apples and thawing them out of the air before squeezing them. , to preserve the flavor of the fruits.
Par contrre, dans le procédé utilisé dans l'invention, toutes les étapes, à partir de la récolte des fruits, sont réalisées à basse température, au contraire des procédés usuels.  By contrast, in the process used in the invention, all the steps, from the harvest of the fruits, are carried out at low temperature, contrary to the usual processes.
Le procédé de cryoextraction comporte essentiellement les étapes suivantes :  The cryoextraction process essentially comprises the following steps:
- congélation des pommes à une température comprise entre -10 et -40°C - Freezing apples at a temperature between -10 and -40 ° C
- cryobroyage à une température comprise entre -10 et -40°C - tamisage à froid - cryomilling at a temperature between -10 and -40 ° C - cold sieving
- extraction dans une chambre de cryo-expression pour obtenir le jus de fruit concentré à froid, en opérant par pressage à une température de l'ordre de -5 à 5°C.  extraction in a cryo-expression chamber to obtain the cold-concentrated fruit juice, by pressing at a temperature of the order of -5 to 5 ° C.
- séchage à froid entre -40 et -50° C  - cold drying between -40 and -50 ° C
L'étape de congélation des pommes se fait de préférence sur le lieu de la récolte pour éviter tout risque de dégradation des fruits. La température de congélation est de préférence proche de -28 °C, c'est-à-dire généralement comprise entre -26 et -30° C.  The apple freezing stage is preferably done at the harvesting site to avoid any risk of fruit degradation. The freezing temperature is preferably close to -28 ° C, that is to say generally between -26 and -30 ° C.
Le cryobroyage permet d'obtenir des particules de dimension moyenne généralement inférieure à 5 mm. Suivant une variante de mise en œuvre, l'étape de cryobroyage ci-dessus est suivie d'un deuxième cryobroyage à une température plus basse, par exemple de l'ordre de -40 à -100°C. Après cryobroyage on procède de préférence à un tamisage des fractions de produit obtenues. La granulométrie du tamis peut être de l'ordre de 100 à 1.000 μητι.  Cryomilling makes it possible to obtain particles of average size generally less than 5 mm. According to an implementation variant, the above cryomilling step is followed by a second cryogrinding at a lower temperature, for example of the order of -40 to -100 ° C. After cryomilling, the product fractions obtained are preferably sieved. The particle size of the sieve may be of the order of 100 to 1,000 μητι.
La cryo-expression des fragments broyés et tamisés se fait de préférence sous pression à une température comprise entre 5 et -5°C, suivie d'une nouvelle congélation entre -10 et -90° C, par exemple -80° C dans une enceinte refroidie à l'azote liquide.  The cryoexpression of the crushed and screened fragments is preferably carried out under pressure at a temperature between 5 and -5 ° C., followed by further freezing at -10 to -90 ° C., for example -80 ° C. in a enclosure cooled with liquid nitrogen.
Après ce premier pressage suivi d'une congélation, les particules sont mises en suspension dans un volume d'eau sensiblement égal au volume de liquide extrait au pressage, et on procède ensuite à un nouveau pressage à une température comprise entre 5 et -5°C. Les étapes de cryoexpression, c'est-à-dire les opérations successives de congélation - mise en suspension - pressage, peuvent être répétées deux à six fois.  After this first pressing followed by freezing, the particles are suspended in a volume of water substantially equal to the volume of liquid extracted during pressing, and then a new pressing is carried out at a temperature of between 5 and -5 ° C. vs. The stages of cryoexpression, that is to say the successive operations of freezing - suspending - pressing, can be repeated two to six times.
Le liquide provenant du pressage est filtré avec un filtre de granulométrie 100 à 500 μιτι, et le filtrat est concentré à une température comprise entre 5 et -5°C, de préférence par osmose inverse. Le concentrât est ensuite congelé à une température de l'ordre de -10 à -40°C. Après récupération du jus de fruit congelé, et séchage à froid, on laisse revenir à température ambiante et on ajoute un stabilisant pour assurer la conservation, par exemple l'alcool benzylique et l'acide déhydroacétique. The liquid coming from the pressing is filtered with a filter of particle size 100 to 500 μιτι, and the filtrate is concentrated at a temperature of between 5 and -5 ° C., preferably by reverse osmosis. The concentrate is then frozen at a temperature of the order of -10 to -40 ° C. After recovery of the frozen fruit juice, and cold drying, allowed to return to room temperature and a stabilizer is added to ensure preservation, for example benzyl alcohol and dehydroacetic acid.
On peut par exemple recourir au mode opératoire décrit dans le brevet EP 425.391 .  For example, the procedure described in patent EP 425,391 may be used.
Le cryoextrait peut être lyophilisé et la poudre recueillie broyée, ce qui facilite son incorporation ultérieure dans des compositions cosmétiques.  The cryoextract can be lyophilized and the powder collected milled, which facilitates its subsequent incorporation into cosmetic compositions.
Le procédé utilisé dans l'invention présente l'avantage de ne pas recourir à des solvants d'extraction, l'étape de cryoexpression se faisant sous courant d'eau sous pression.  The process used in the invention has the advantage of not using extraction solvents, the cryoexpression step being carried out under a stream of water under pressure.
Les extraits de pomme utilisés dans les compositions suivant la présente invention sont de préférence sous forme d'extraits aqueux ou hydroglycoliques, du fruit broyé à froid, à une température inférieure à la température de congélation du jus de pomme.  The apple extracts used in the compositions according to the present invention are preferably in the form of aqueous or hydroglycolic extracts, cold ground fruit, at a temperature below the freezing temperature of the apple juice.
Suivant une forme avantageuse de réalisation, l'extrait utilisable dans la composition de l'invention est obtenu à partir des fruits réduits en poudre par cryobroyage, et dont le jus est extrait comme indiqué ci-dessus puis est stabilisé au moyen d'un conservateur approprié tel qu'alcool benzylique et acide déhydroacétique, permettant d'éviter toute action enzymatique ou oxydante susceptible de dénaturer le produit.  According to an advantageous embodiment, the extract that can be used in the composition of the invention is obtained from the fruits reduced to powder by cryomilling, and whose juice is extracted as indicated above and then stabilized by means of a preservative. suitable such as benzyl alcohol and dehydroacetic acid, to avoid any enzymatic or oxidizing action likely to denature the product.
Le cryoextrait aqueux de pomme utilisé dans la présente invention a été obtenu à partir de pommes biologiques de Provence (Pyrus malus) et se présente sous la forme d'un liquide de couleur jaune pâle à ambré, d'odeur caractéristique, soluble à 10% dans l'eau et partiellement soluble dans l'éthanol, se caractérisant par :  The aqueous cryoextract of apple used in the present invention was obtained from organic apples of Provence (Pyrus malus) and is in the form of a pale yellow to amber liquid, of characteristic odor, soluble to 10% in water and partially soluble in ethanol, characterized by:
PH 3,0 - 5,0  PH 3.0 - 5.0
indice de réfraction à 22 °C 1 ,330 - 1 ,380 densité à 20 °C 0,950 - 1 ,050 matières sèches > 1 ,0 %  refractive index at 22 ° C 1, 330 - 1, 380 density at 20 ° C 0.950 - 1, 050 solids> 1, 0%
AHA (acide citrique) 0,54 - 0,64 g/l - sucres totaux 21 ,3 - 22,3 g/l AHA (citric acid) 0.54 - 0.64 g / l - total sugars 21.3 - 22.3 g / l
L'extrait est relativement riche en acides alpha-hydroxylés (AHA) notamment en acide citrique, qui représentent 3,2 % en matières sèches, et en sucres.  The extract is relatively rich in alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) including citric acid, which represent 3.2% dry matter, and sugars.
Dans la composition selon l'invention, la teneur en cryoextrait de pomme peut être comprise entre 0,5 et 25%, et de préférence entre 2 et 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, pour procurer les meilleurs effets cosmétiques.  In the composition according to the invention, the cryoextract content of apple may be between 0.5 and 25%, and preferably between 2 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, to provide the best cosmetic effects .
Les cryoextraits peuvent être utilisés avantageusement sous une forme encapsulée dans des liposomes.  Cryoextracts can be used advantageously in a form encapsulated in liposomes.
Suivant une technique connue dans la fabrication des compositions cosmétiques, les liposomes sont constitués par des petites sphères creuses, de diamètre généralement inférieur à 500 nm, dont la paroi est formée d'une double couche de lipides tels que des glucolipides ou des phospholipides. Ils peuvent être obtenus par exemple par traitement aux ultrasons d'un mélange d'un soluté aqueux et de lipides. Les lipides (phospholipides ou glucolipides) se réorganisent dans une configuration où l'énergie de l'ensemble est minimale, donc thermo- dynamiquement la plus stable. Les liposomes sont utilisés dans l'industrie cosmétique pour délivrer des composés à l'intérieur des cellules lorsque le vésicule fusionne avec la membrane plasmique.  According to a known technique in the manufacture of cosmetic compositions, the liposomes are constituted by small hollow spheres, generally less than 500 nm in diameter, whose wall is formed of a double layer of lipids such as glucolipids or phospholipids. They can be obtained for example by ultrasonic treatment of a mixture of an aqueous solute and lipids. Lipids (phospholipids or glucolipids) are reorganized in a configuration where the energy of the whole is minimal, so thermodynamically the most stable. Liposomes are used in the cosmetics industry to deliver compounds into cells when the vesicle fuses with the plasma membrane.
Suivant une forme de réalisation de l'invention, une partie au moins des cryoextraits est encapsulée dans des vésicules du type liposome.  According to one embodiment of the invention, at least part of the cryoextras is encapsulated in liposome-type vesicles.
Les compositions conformes à la présente invention sont de préférence administrables par voie topique. Suivant la terminologie classique, l'administration par voie topique désigne toute méthode consistant à appliquer la substance ou la composition directement sur la peau, sur la zone nécessitant le traitement.  The compositions according to the present invention are preferably topically administrable. In conventional terminology, topical administration refers to any method of applying the substance or composition directly to the skin on the area requiring treatment.
Conformément à la présente invention, la composition administrable par voie topique peut avantageusement contenir, outre les composants de base décrits ci-dessus, une ou plusieurs autres substances connues pour exercer des effets complémentaires bénéfiques pour la peau, et plus particulièrement le tocophérol, la vitamine A (rétinol), l'acide rétinoïque, le bisabolol, un extrait de Bacopa monnieri, des agents bactéricides, du monométhylsilanol, de la proline, ou encore du beurre de Karité. According to the present invention, the topically administrable composition may advantageously contain, in addition to the basic components described above, one or more other substances known to have beneficial effects on the skin, and more particularly tocopherol, vitamin A (retinol), retinoic acid, bisabolol, Bacopa monnieri extract, bactericidal agents, monomethylsilanol, proline, or shea butter.
On peut aussi ajouter à la composition des extraits ou composés connus pour faciliter la pénétration des principes actifs de la composition à travers l'épiderme, par exemple des saponosides du type hédéragénine.  It is also possible to add to the composition extracts or compounds known to facilitate the penetration of the active ingredients of the composition through the epidermis, for example saponosides of the hederagenin type.
Les compositions cosmétiques conformes à la présente invention, sont destinées de préférence à une administration topique, et contiennent donc des supports et excipients couramment utilisés dans des compositions de ce type telles que des émulsions H/E ou E/H, des crèmes, des gels ou des lotions. Dans le cas des émulsions, la phase grasse peut représenter entre 10 et 60% environ du poids de la composition, la phase aqueuse entre 10 et 80% environ et l'agent émulsionnant entre 2 et 20%, le reste étant constitué par les composants de base indiqués ci- dessus et les autres composants mentionnés ci-après.  The cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention are preferably intended for topical administration, and therefore contain carriers and excipients commonly used in compositions of this type, such as O / W or W / O emulsions, creams and gels. or lotions. In the case of emulsions, the fatty phase may represent between 10 and 60% of the weight of the composition, the aqueous phase between 10 and 80% and the emulsifier between 2 and 20%, the remainder being constituted by the components above and the other components listed below.
La composition peut encore contenir diverses substances et excipients choisis en fonction de leurs propriétés connues et de la forme galénique envisagée. Ainsi, on peut incorporer dans la composition des conservateurs, des agents émul- sionnants, des agents viscosants, des épaississants, des gélifiants, des agents de chélation, des antioxydants, des agents hydratants, des tensioactifs, des parfums, des huiles, des lipides, un solvant spécifique ainsi que de l'eau et divers additifs destinés à améliorer les propriétés physiques de la composition.  The composition may also contain various substances and excipients chosen according to their known properties and the intended dosage form. Thus, preservatives, emulsifiers, viscosifying agents, thickeners, gelling agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, surfactants, perfumes, oils, lipids, can be incorporated in the composition. , a specific solvent as well as water and various additives for improving the physical properties of the composition.
On peut choisir l'agent émulsionnant parmi des polymères carboxyvinyliques à haut poids moléculaire, des polysorbates, des esters de sorbitan et en particulier un monostéarate tel que le Span 60®, un tristéarate, un monopalmitate, et un laurate de sorbitan. On peut encore utiliser d'autres agents émulsionnants tels que divers dérivés d'acide stéarique ou palmitique, et par exemple le stéarate de PEG 100®, des mono- ou diglycérides d'acide stéarique ou palmitique, un stéarate de propylène glycol auto-émulsionnable, ou encore le polyglycéryl-2-sesquioléate, l'éther cétylique de polyoxyéthylène, un polyglucoside de siloxane, ou une silicone émulsionnable. Les agents viscosants utilisés dans les compositions de l'invention peuvent être choisis parmi divers polymères d'acide acrylique, un copolymère d'acrylate et de laurate d'acryloyle, une gomme cellulose, une silice, des polymères carboxy- vinyliques, un silicate d'aluminium et de magnésium, et on peut utiliser par exemple la silice colloïdale vendue sous la marque Aerosil 200® ou un acide polyacrylique réticulé tel que le Carbopol 940®. The emulsifier may be selected from high molecular weight carboxyvinyl polymers, polysorbates, sorbitan esters, and particularly a monostearate such as Span 60® , a tristearate, a monopalmitate, and a sorbitan laurate. It is also possible to use other emulsifying agents such as various stearic or palmitic acid derivatives, and for example PEG 100® stearate, mono- or diglycerides of stearic or palmitic acid, self-emulsifiable propylene glycol stearate. or polyglyceryl-2-sesquioleate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, a siloxane polyglucoside, or an emulsifiable silicone. The viscosifying agents used in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from various polymers of acrylic acid, a copolymer of acrylate and acryloyl laurate, a cellulose gum, a silica, carboxyl-vinyl polymers, a silicate of aluminum and magnesium, and can be used for example colloidal silica sold under the trademark Aerosil 200 ® or a crosslinked polyacrylic acid such as Carbopol 940 ®.
Les gélifiants ou épaississants peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les polyacrylamides, des acrylates comme le Pemulen®, les dérivés de cellulose comme l'hydroxypropyl cellulose, ou les gommes naturelles.  The gelling agents or thickeners may be chosen for example from polyacrylamides, acrylates such as Pemulen®, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, or natural gums.
Les agents de chélation permettent d'améliorer la stabilité des produits dans le temps et peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi l'EDTA disodique ou tétrasodique, l'acide oxalique ou l'acide galactarique.  The chelating agents make it possible to improve the stability of the products over time and can be chosen for example from disodium or tetrasodium EDTA, oxalic acid or galactaric acid.
Les agents hydratants utilisés peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi un polyol, le sorbitol, le maltitol, le xylitol, le pentaérythritol, le butylène glycol, l'alcool D-panthotényl (Panthenol), les polyacrylates et polyméthacrylates de glycéryle, le glycérol ou des dérivés de glycérol ou une argile hydratante comme le Veegum HV (silicate de magnésium / aluminium) qui a aussi pour effet de stabiliser l'émulsion. On peut aussi ajouter des émollients tels qu'un malate d'alkyle, l'isohexadécane, des triglycérides d'acide caprique ou caprylique, etc.  The moisturizing agents used may be chosen, for example, from a polyol, sorbitol, maltitol, xylitol, pentaerythritol, butylene glycol, D-panthotenyl alcohol (Panthenol), glyceryl polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, glycerol or glycerol derivatives or a hydrating clay such as Veegum HV (magnesium aluminum silicate) which also has the effect of stabilizing the emulsion. It is also possible to add emollients such as alkyl malate, isohexadecane, capric or caprylic acid triglycerides, etc.
Les conservateurs usuels de la technique des compositions dermatologiques ou cosmétologiques peuvent être utilisés dans l'invention, et par exemple l'acide déhydroacétique et son sel de sodium, l'acide benzoïque et un p-hydroxybenzoate d'alkyle tel que le p-hydroxy-benzoate de méthyle (Méthylparaben), un alcool tel que le phénoxy-éthanol, l'alcool benzylique ou encore la chlorphénésine ou l'imidazolidinyl urée.  The usual preservatives of the technique of dermatological or cosmetological compositions can be used in the invention, and for example dehydroacetic acid and its sodium salt, benzoic acid and an alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as p-hydroxy methyl benzoate (Methylparaben), an alcohol such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol or chlorphenesine or imidazolidinyl urea.
Les constituants de la phase grasse, c'est-à-dire les huiles et lipides, peuvent être choisis parmi l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de maïs, l'huile de vaseline, l'huile d'amandes douces, l'huile de coco hydrogénée, l'huile de carthame, des glycérides d'acides gras saturés, l'acide stéarique, l'acide palmitique, le stéarate d'octyle, le palmitate de glycéryle, le palmitate d'octyle, un triglycéride d'acides caprique et caprylique, le 2-octyl-dodécanol, le polyéthylène glycol, l'adipate d'éthyl-2 hexyle, ou encore des huiles de silicones telles que le méthyl phényl polysiloxane, la diméthicone, la cyclométhicone et la phényl diméthicone. The constituents of the fatty phase, that is to say the oils and lipids, can be chosen from jojoba oil, corn oil, liquid petroleum jelly, sweet almond oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, safflower oil, saturated fatty acid glycerides, stearic acid, palmitic acid, octyl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, octyl palmitate, triglyceride acids caprylic and caprylic, 2-octyl-dodecanol, polyethylene glycol, 2-ethyl hexyl adipate, or silicone oils such as methyl phenyl polysiloxane, dimethicone, cyclomethicone and phenyl dimethicone.
La composition peut aussi contenir un solvant choisi en fonction des composants utilisés et de la forme d'administration envisagée. Le solvant peut être par exemple de l'eau, et de préférence de l'eau déminéralisée, ou un solvant spécifique tel que le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol-1 ,3, le butylène glycol- 1 ,4, un éther de diéthylène glycol, ou un alcool tel que l'éthanol.  The composition may also contain a solvent chosen according to the components used and the intended form of administration. The solvent may be for example water, and preferably demineralised water, or a specific solvent such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol-1, 3, butylene glycol-1, 4, a diethylene ether glycol, or an alcohol such as ethanol.
Des agents de protection contre les rayons ultraviolets peuvent aussi être avantageusement incorporés dans les compositions, et par exemple des filtres solaires UV-A et UV-B hydrophiles ou lipophiles. On peut aussi utiliser des pigments formant écran anti-ultraviolet, comme par exemple le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc et l'oxyde de zirconium.  Ultraviolet protection agents may also advantageously be incorporated in the compositions, and for example hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens. It is also possible to use anti-ultraviolet screen pigments such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide.
Le pH de la composition est de préférence compris entre 5,3 et 7,5, et peut être ajusté, selon les compositions, par addition d'un acide tel que l'acide citrique ou d'une base telle que l'hydroxyde de sodium ou de potassium.  The pH of the composition is preferably between 5.3 and 7.5, and may be adjusted, depending on the compositions, by the addition of an acid such as citric acid or a base such as sodium or potassium.
La composition conforme à la présente invention peut être présentée sous les formes classiquement utilisées pour une application topique, c'est-à-dire sous forme de gel, lotion, émulsion (en particulier crème ou lait), patchs transdermiques, masque ou pommade, contenant des excipients et supports usuels compatibles et physiologiquement acceptables. Ces formes d'administration par voie topique sont préparées par les techniques connues, et par exemple, dans le cas d'une crème, par dispersion d'une phase grasse dans une phase aqueuse pour obtenir une émulsion huile dans eau, ou inversement pour préparer une émulsion eau dans huile. Dans le cas de crèmes, on préfère utiliser des émulsions à structure lamellaire contenant peu de produits éthoxylés ou n'en contenant pas du tout. L'extrait de pomme utilisé dans l'invention est introduit dans la phase aqueuse ou alcoolique.  The composition in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), transdermal patches, mask or ointment, containing usual excipients and carriers compatible and physiologically acceptable. These forms of topical administration are prepared by the known techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion. In the case of creams, it is preferred to use lamellar structure emulsions containing little or no ethoxylated products. The apple extract used in the invention is introduced into the aqueous or alcoholic phase.
A titre d'exemple, on peut préparer des compositions topiques conformes à l'invention sous forme de crèmes, de lotions ou de gels, utilisables en une ou plusieurs applications quotidiennes, la durée du traitement pouvant être généralement de l'ordre de un à trois mois ou davantage, les compositions pouvant être utilisées sans inconvénient de manière continuelle. By way of example, it is possible to prepare topical compositions in accordance with the invention in the form of creams, lotions or gels, which can be used in one or several daily applications, the duration of treatment may be generally of the order of one to three months or more, the compositions can be used without inconvenience in a continuous manner.
Les exemples de compositions donnés ci-après illustrent l'invention sans en limiter la portée. Sauf indication contraire, les parties et pourcentages sont indiqués en poids.  The examples of compositions given below illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. Unless otherwise indicated, parts and percentages are by weight.
Exemple 1 Example 1
Une lotion tonique à base de cryoextrait de pomme ayant la composition indiquée ci-après est préparée suivant les techniques usuelles :  A tonic lotion based on apple cryoextract having the composition indicated below is prepared according to the usual techniques:
Cryoextrait de pomme 15,00 Cryoextract of apple 15,00
Eau de tilleul 5,00Basswood water 5.00
Eau de camomille romaine 5,00Roman chamomile water 5.00
Eau de laitue 5,00Lettuce water 5.00
Panthenol 5,00Panthenol 5.00
Butylène glycol-1 ,3 5,00Butylene glycol-1, 3 5.00
Aspartate de lysine 0,50Lysine aspartate 0,50
Acide pyrrolidone carboxylique 0,20Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 0.20
Parfum hydrosoluble 0,20Water soluble fragrance 0.20
Acide galactarique 0, 10Galactaric acid 0, 10
Dehydroacétate de sodium 0, 10Sodium dehydroacetate 0, 10
Eau déminéralisée q.s.p. 100,00Demineralized water q.s. 100.00
Ces ingrédients sont mélangés à température ambiante et la solution est ensuite filtrée pour obtenir une lotion tonique. Les pommes utilisées pour préparer le cryoextrait incorporé dans cette composition sont des pommes biologiques de Provence. These ingredients are mixed at room temperature and the solution is then filtered to obtain a toning lotion. The apples used to prepare the cryoextrate incorporated in this composition are organic apples from Provence.
Cette lotion est utilisée en application topique, une à deux fois par jour sur les zones de la peau à traiter, par exemple sur le visage et le cou, pendant une période de 1 à 3 mois selon l'effet recherché. Exemple 2 This lotion is used topically, once or twice a day on the areas of the skin to be treated, for example on the face and neck, for a period of 1 to 3 months depending on the desired effect. Example 2
Une crème à base de cryoextrait de pomme biologique de Provence ayant la composition indiquée ci-après est préparée suivant les techniques usuelles :  A cream based on cryoextract organic apple of Provence having the composition indicated below is prepared according to the usual techniques:
Phase A  Phase A
Eau déminéralisée q.s.p. 100,00 Demineralized water q.s. 100.00
Gomme de cellulose et cellulose microcristalline 1 ,50Cellulose gum and microcrystalline cellulose 1, 50
Gel d'Aloes lyophilisé 0, 10Freeze-dried Aloe gel 0, 10
Butylène glycol- 1 ,3 4,00Butylene glycol- 1, 3 4.00
Glycérine 4,50Glycerin 4.50
Sclerotium gum et gomme xanthane 0,30Sclerotium gum and xanthan gum 0.30
Acide galactarique 0, 10Galactaric acid 0, 10
Hyaluronate de sodium 0, 10 Phase B Sodium Hyaluronate 0, 10 Phase B
Glycéryl stéarate + alcool béhénylique +  Glyceryl stearate + Behenyl alcohol +
Lécithine + Stérols de soja + Tocophérol 4,00 Lecithin + Soy Sterols + Tocopherol 4.00
Glycéryl stéarate citrate 1 ,00 Acacia decurrens / Jojoba / Cire de tournesol Glyceryl stearate citrate 1.00 Acacia decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower wax
Polyglyceryl-3 esters 0,60 Polyglyceryl-3 esters 0.60
Triglycérides caprique / caprylique 4,50Capric / caprylic triglycerides 4.50
Coco caprylate 1 ,50Coco caprylate 1, 50
Tocophérol 0, 10Tocopherol 0, 10
Phase C Phase C
Dehydroacétate de sodium 0, 15 Sodium dehydroacetate 0, 15
Alcool benzylique 0,30Benzyl alcohol 0.30
Eau déminéralisée 5,00Demineralized water 5.00
Phase D Phase D
Cryoextrait aqueux de pomme 10,00 Aqueous cryoextract of apple 10.00
Eau de mélisse 5,00Lemon balm water 5.00
Phase E Phase E
Parfum 0,30 La phase aqueuse A est chauffée à 70° C pour former un gel tandis que la phase grasse B est chauffée à environ 70 °C pour faire fondre les composants, puis les deux phases sont mélangées soigneusement sous agitation. La phase C, après homogénéisation, est ajoutée au mélange à la température d'environ 60° C, puis la phase D à 50 °C environ. L'ensemble est mélangé et refroidi progressivement. Perfume 0.30 The aqueous phase A is heated to 70 ° C to form a gel while the fat phase B is heated to about 70 ° C to melt the components, and then the two phases are thoroughly mixed with stirring. Phase C, after homogenization, is added to the mixture at a temperature of about 60 ° C. and then phase D at about 50 ° C. The whole is mixed and gradually cooled.
Cette crème peut être utilisée par application sur les zones de la peau à traiter, une à deux fois par jour, pendant une période de un à trois mois.  This cream can be used per application on the areas of the skin to be treated, once or twice a day, for a period of one to three months.
Exemple 3 Example 3
Une crème de nuit à base de cryoextrait de pomme biologique de Provence ayant la composition indiquée ci-après est préparée suivant les techniques usuelles :  A night cream based on cryoextract organic apple of Provence having the composition indicated below is prepared according to the usual techniques:
Phase A  Phase A
Eau déminéralisée q.s.p. 100,00 Demineralized water q.s. 100.00
Chlorphénésine 0,25Chlorphenesin 0.25
EDTA disodique 0, 10Disodium EDTA 0, 10
Butylène glycol- 1 ,3 4,00Butylene glycol- 1, 3 4.00
Glycérine 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Gomme Xanthane 0,30Xanthane Gum 0.30
Veegum HV 0,20Veegum HV 0,20
Phase B Phase B
Tocophérol 0,70 Tocopherol 0.70
PEG 100 stéarate et Glycéryl stéarate 4,00 Alcool béhénylique 2,50 Triglycérides caprique / caprylique 2,00 Propyl heptyl caprylate (and) Tocophérol 1 ,50PEG 100 Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate 4.00 Behenyl Alcohol 2.50 Capric / Caprylic Triglycerides 2.00 Propyl Heptyl Caprylate (and) Tocopherol 1, 50
Phase C Phase C
Starch octenyl succinate 1 ,50 Starch octenyl succinate 1, 50
Phase D Phase D
Hyaluronate de sodium 1 ,00 Eau déminéralisée 10,00 Phase E Sodium hyaluronate 1, 00 Demineralized water 10,00 Phase E
Bisabolol 0,05 Phase F  Bisabolol 0.05 Phase F
Dehydroacétate de sodium 0, 15 Alcool benzylique 0,20 Eau déminéralisée 5,00 Phase G  Sodium dehydroacetate 0, 15 Benzyl alcohol 0.20 Demineralized water 5.00 Phase G
Cryoextrait aqueux de pomme 10,00 Extrait de Bacopa monnieri 1 ,00 Phase H  Aqueous cryoextract of apple 10.00 Bacopa monnieri extract 1, 00 Phase H
Parfum 0,20 Les phases A et B sont chauffées à 80 °C puis mélangées soigneusement. La phase C est chauffée et ajoutée au mélange précédent à 65 ° C, puis les phases D à G sont ajoutées successivement à 50° C. La parfum est ajouté à 40° C environ.  Fragrance 0.20 Phases A and B are heated to 80 ° C and mixed thoroughly. Phase C is heated and added to the above mixture at 65 ° C, then phases D to G are added successively at 50 ° C. The perfume is added at about 40 ° C.
Le pH est ajusté à 6,2 par addition de lessive de soude au 1 /10.  The pH is adjusted to 6.2 by the addition of 1/10 sodium hydroxide solution.
Exemple 4 Example 4
Evaluation de la cytotoxicité  Evaluation of cytotoxicity
La cytotoxicité des cryoextraits de pomme suivant l'invention a été étudiée vis-à-vis de kératinocytes humains en culture.  The cytotoxicity of apple cryoextras according to the invention has been studied with respect to human keratinocytes in culture.
la méthode utilisée est celle de la digestion enzymatique permettant d'obtenir des primocultures de kératinocytes à partir d'une biopsie de peau humaine. Les essais sont effectués sur des kératinocytes entre le 2eme et le 4eme passage afin d'assurer une bonne reproductibilité entre les différents essais. the method used is that of enzymatic digestion for obtaining primocultures of keratinocytes from a human skin biopsy. The tests are performed on keratinocytes between the 2 nd and 4 th passage to ensure good reproducibility between different experiments.
Quatre lots ont été constitués :  Four lots were constituted:
Lot n ° 1 : témoin ne recevant aucun produit.  Lot 1: witness not receiving any product.
Lot n° 2 : traité avec le cryoextrait aqueux à 0, 1 %  Lot 2: treated with 0.1% aqueous cryoextract
Lot n° 3 : traité avec le cryoextrait aqueux à 0,5 %  Lot 3: treated with 0.5% aqueous cryoextract
Lot n° 4 : traité avec le cryoextrait aqueux à 1 ,0 % Chaque lot a été maintenu au contact des kératinocytes humains en culture pendant 24 heures. Lot 4: treated with 1.0% aqueous cryoextract Each batch was kept in contact with human keratinocytes in culture for 24 hours.
La viabilité cellulaire a été déterminée par le test de réduction au bleu de Formazan (test MTT) après 24 heures d'incubation des cellules de kératinocytes.  Cell viability was determined by the Formazan blue reduction test (MTT test) after 24 hours of incubation of keratinocyte cells.
Après incubation des cellules avec le produit à l'étude aux différentes concentrations indiquées ci-dessus, les puits contenant les cellules sont vidés par retournement doux et le tapis cellulaire est rincé avec le milieu de culture. On distribue dans tous les puits 200 μΐ d'une solution de MTT (bromure de 3-(4,5- diméthylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphényltétrazolium) diluée au moment de l'emploi (1 /10), puis les plaques sont incubées à 37° C pendant 3 heures.  After incubating the cells with the product under study at the various concentrations indicated above, the wells containing the cells are emptied by gentle inversion and the cell mat is rinsed with the culture medium. 200 μl of a solution of MTT (3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) diluted at the time of use (1/10) is dispensed into all the wells, then the plates are incubated at 37 ° C for 3 hours.
Les puits sont à nouveau vidés par retournement doux et remplacés pendant 1 minutes par 200 μΐ d'une solution de formo-calcium pour fixer le tapis cellulaire. On observe alors la formation de cristaux de bleu de Formazan. Les cellules sont ensuite lysées et les cristaux de bleu de Formazan sont dissous par addition de 200 μΐ de diméthylsulfoxyde (DMSO). Après homogénéisation de la coloration par agitation, la densité optique (DO) des plaques est lue, au moyen d'un spectro- photomètre à 570 nm, ce qui permet de connaître la quantité relative de cellules vivantes et actives métaboliquement.  The wells are again emptied by gentle inversion and replaced for 1 minutes with 200 μl of a calcium formaldehyde solution to fix the cell layer. The formation of Formazan blue crystals is observed. The cells are then lysed and the Formazan blue crystals are dissolved by adding 200 μl of dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO). After homogenization of the coloration by stirring, the optical density (OD) of the plates is read, by means of a spectrophotometer at 570 nm, which makes it possible to know the relative quantity of living and metabolically active cells.
Les valeurs de la densité optique (DO) après 24 heures de contact sont regroupées dans le tableau ci-dessous.  The values of optical density (OD) after 24 hours of contact are summarized in the table below.
Ces résultats montrent que les cryoextraits de pomme utilisés dans l'invention ne présentent aucune cytotoxicité vis-à-vis des kératinocytes humains en culture aux concentrations étudiées. Exemple 5 These results show that the apple cryoextracts used in the invention exhibit no cytotoxicity with respect to human keratinocytes in culture at the concentrations studied. Example 5
L'étude de l'effet des cryoextraits utilisés dans l'invention sur la libération de la bêta-endorphine a été effectuée comme indiqué ci-après.  The study of the effect of cryoextracts used in the invention on the release of beta-endorphin was carried out as indicated below.
L'évaluation de l'effet des cryoextraits a été faite sur les mêmes kératinocytes humains en culture que ceux de l'Exemple 4.  The evaluation of the effect of the cryoextraits was made on the same human keratinocytes in culture as those of Example 4.
Les lots témoin et cryoextrait à concentration variant de 0, 1 à 1 ,0 % ont été constitués comme dans l'Exemple 4.  Control and cryoextract groups varying from 0.1 to 1.0% were formed as in Example 4.
L'essai a été réalisé en triplicate après 24 heures de contact des cellules avec chaque lot. Le dosage de la bêta-endorphine libérée a été effectué au moyen d'un kit de dosage ELISA de Kamiya Biomédical Company.  The assay was performed in triplicate after 24 hours of cell contact with each lot. The assay for released beta-endorphin was performed using an ELISA kit from Kamiya Biomedical Company.
Les résultats sont regroupés dans le tableau ci-dessous.  The results are summarized in the table below.
Ces résultats montrent que le cryoextrait de l'invention, aux concentrations de 0,5 % et 1 ,0 %, induit une augmentation significative de la libération de bêta- endorphine au niveau des kératinocytes humains en culture, l'augmentation étant de 1 1 % et 14 % respectivement. These results show that the cryoextract of the invention, at concentrations of 0.5% and 1.0%, induces a significant increase in the release of beta-endorphin at the level of human keratinocytes in culture, the increase being 1%. % and 14% respectively.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 . Utilisation d'un cryoextrait de jus de pomme, en une concentration appropriée, dans une composition cosmétique favorisant l'amélioration du confort de la peau 1. Use of a cryoextract of apple juice, in an appropriate concentration, in a cosmetic composition promoting the improvement of the comfort of the skin
2. Utilisation selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que le cryoextrait est obtenu à partir de fruits de pommiers des espèces Pyrus malus ou Malus sylvestris MiU., Malus domestica, Malus pumila, Malus floribunda, ou Malus coronaria.  2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the cryoextract is obtained from apple fruit of the species Pyrus malus or Malus sylvestris MiU., Malus domestica, Malus pumila, Malus floribunda, or Malus coronaria.
3. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un cryoextrait ayant les caractéristiques suivantes :  3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cryoextract having the following characteristics:
- pH 3,0 - 5,0  - pH 3.0 - 5.0
- indice de réfraction à 22 °C 1 ,330 - 1 ,380  refractive index at 22 ° C 1, 330 - 1, 380
- densité à 20°C 0,950 - 1 ,050  - density at 20 ° C 0.950 - 1.050
- matières sèches > 1 ,0 %  - dry matter> 1, 0%
4. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le cryoextrait comprend des AHA et des sucres à raison de :  4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cryoextract comprises AHAs and sugars at the rate of:
- AHA (acide citrique) 0,54 - 0,64 g/l  - AHA (citric acid) 0.54 - 0.64 g / l
- sucres totaux 21 ,3 - 22,3 g/l  - total sugars 21.3 - 22.3 g / l
5. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en cryoextrait de pomme est comprise entre 0,5 et 25% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.  5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cryoextract content of apple is between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Utilisation selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en cryoextrait de pomme est comprise entre 2 et 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.  6. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the cryoextract content of apple is between 2 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Utilisation selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que le cryoextrait de pomme est obtenu à partir de fruits congelés dès la récolte.  7. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the apple cryoextract is obtained from frozen fruit at harvest.
8. Utilisation selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que le cryoextrait de pomme est un extrait aqueux ou hydroglycolique. 8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the apple cryoextract is an aqueous or hydroglycolic extract.
9. Procédé de préparation d'un cryoextrait de jus de pomme à usage cosmétique comprenant les étapes suivantes : 9. Process for the preparation of a cryoextract of apple juice for cosmetic use, comprising the following steps:
- congélation des pommes à une température comprise entre -10 et -40°C - Freezing apples at a temperature between -10 and -40 ° C
- cryobroyage à une température comprise entre -10 et -40°C - cryomilling at a temperature between -10 and -40 ° C
- tamisage à froid  - cold sieving
- extraction dans une chambre de cryo-expression pour obtenir le jus de fruit concentré à froid, en opérant par pressage à une température de l'ordre de -5 à 5°C.  extraction in a cryo-expression chamber to obtain the cold-concentrated fruit juice, by pressing at a temperature of the order of -5 to 5 ° C.
- séchage à froid entre -40 et -50° C  - cold drying between -40 and -50 ° C
10. Procédé selon la revendication 9, carctérisé en ce que les particules, après pressage et congélation, sont mises en suspension dans un volume d'eau sensiblement égal au volume de liquide extrait au pressage, puis on procède à un nouveau pressage à une température comprise entre 5 et -5°C.  10. The method of claim 9, carctérisé in that the particles, after pressing and freezing, are suspended in a volume of water substantially equal to the volume of liquid extracted on pressing, and then is carried out a new pressing at a temperature between 5 and -5 ° C.
1 1 . Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 9 et 10, caractérisé en ce que le cryoextrait est lyophilisé.  1 1. Process according to either of Claims 9 and 10, characterized in that the cryoextract is freeze-dried.
12. Procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau, pour le bien-être de la peau, par application d'une composition à base de cryoextrait de pomme sur la zone de la peau nécessitant un tel traitement.  12. Cosmetic skin treatment method, for the well-being of the skin, by application of a cryoextract apple composition to the area of the skin requiring such treatment.
EP13706651.0A 2012-02-09 2013-02-07 Use of an apple juice extract in a cosmetic skin-comforting composition Withdrawn EP2811976A2 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1251222A FR2986707B1 (en) 2012-02-09 2012-02-09 COMPOSITION COMPRISING APPLE JUICE EXTRACT FOR SKIN COMFORT.
PCT/FR2013/050260 WO2013117865A2 (en) 2012-02-09 2013-02-07 Use of an apple juice extract in a cosmetic skin-comforting composition

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Family Cites Families (10)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA1258438A (en) * 1985-07-09 1989-08-15 David W.S. Riddell Process for producing apple juice and apple wine
FR2653664B1 (en) 1989-10-27 1992-02-07 Jean Daniel COMPOSITIONS BASED ON SUC AND PLANT PROTOPLASTS, PROCESS FOR OBTAINING SAME AND USES THEREOF, PARTICULARLY IN THE FIELD OF PHYTOTHERAPY.
FR2719473B1 (en) * 1994-05-04 1996-06-21 Rocher Yves Biolog Vegetale Method for accelerating cell renewal of the skin and cosmetic compositions for its implementation.
FR2799121B1 (en) 1999-10-01 2004-02-13 Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique EXTRACTS FROM APPLE BRANCHES USEFUL IN DERMOCOSMETOLOGY AND THEIR PREPARATION PROCESS
RU2161950C1 (en) * 2000-06-14 2001-01-20 Успенская Светлана Игоревна Lotion for hand care
CN1433714A (en) * 2002-01-22 2003-08-06 王忠民 Process for preparing natural apple juice
FR2836336B1 (en) 2002-02-26 2004-08-27 Diana Ingredients USE IN A COSMETIC TREATMENT OF A PHENOLIC FRACTION RICH IN DIHYDROCHALCONES
AU2002950308A0 (en) * 2002-07-23 2002-09-12 Phoenix Eagle Company Pty Ltd Topically applied composition
FR2916972B1 (en) * 2007-06-07 2010-01-29 Occitane L COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION BASED ON APPLE AND USE THEREOF.
KR101054118B1 (en) * 2009-02-23 2011-08-03 한국식품연구원 Method of manufacturing apple juice and apple juice composition

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Title
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See also references of WO2013117865A2 *

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WO2013117865A3 (en) 2014-04-10
WO2013117865A2 (en) 2013-08-15
FR2986707A1 (en) 2013-08-16

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