EP2866900A2 - Soothing topical composition containing paeonia and nymphaea extracts - Google Patents

Soothing topical composition containing paeonia and nymphaea extracts

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Publication number
EP2866900A2
EP2866900A2 EP13731825.9A EP13731825A EP2866900A2 EP 2866900 A2 EP2866900 A2 EP 2866900A2 EP 13731825 A EP13731825 A EP 13731825A EP 2866900 A2 EP2866900 A2 EP 2866900A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
extract
composition
topical
composition according
nymphaea
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP13731825.9A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Nadine Leconte
Philippe Bernard
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Societe de Recherche Cosmetique SARL
Original Assignee
Societe de Recherche Cosmetique SARL
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Societe de Recherche Cosmetique SARL filed Critical Societe de Recherche Cosmetique SARL
Publication of EP2866900A2 publication Critical patent/EP2866900A2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/65—Paeoniaceae (Peony family), e.g. Chinese peony
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/62—Nymphaeaceae (Water-lily family)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/0012—Galenical forms characterised by the site of application
    • A61K9/0014—Skin, i.e. galenical aspects of topical compositions

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a novel cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to ensure the protection of the epidermis, and more particularly to a composition based on a combination of plant extracts of the genus Paeonia and Nymphaea having a soothing biological action on the skin. skin.
  • the skin has several integrated layers, ranging from the superficial layer, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to conditions of its environment.
  • the epidermis composed mainly of keratinocytes, melanocytes and Langerhans cells, constitutes the outer layer of the skin, and plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. That's why many compositions have been developed to protect it and improve its functions.
  • the dermis consists mainly of collagen, elastin and proteoglycans, molecules synthesized by dermal fibroblasts.
  • Collagen fibers provide the mechanical strength and texture of the skin
  • elastin is responsible for elasticity
  • proteoglycans play a major role in the structure and hydration of the skin.
  • Other cells such as macrophages and leucocytes are also present in the dermis layer.
  • the hypodermis which is the deepest layer of skin, contains lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a fat layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.
  • Enkephalins are neurotransmitters released by neurons during intense pain sensations. Their role is to inhibit the spread of pain from the nociceptors, that is to say the nerve endings in the dermis and epidermis, to the brain, responsible for the perception of pain. These are endogenous molecules that can bind to nociceptive neuron receptors and make the sensation of pain less intense, thus exerting an analgesic effect. Enkephalins can also bind to opioid receptors in the brain, which stimulates the release of dopamine by dopamine neurons and increases the sensation of pleasure.
  • the peony, genus Paeonia is a perennial, herbaceous or shrubby plant according to the various known species, belonging to the family of Paeoniaceae, originating from several regions of Europe and the Far East, in particular from China. It is well known as an ornamental plant but it has been used since ancient times as a medicinal plant in Greeks as well as in traditional Chinese medicine, especially to facilitate blood circulation or for the treatment of fevers, fibroids or abscesses.
  • US Patent Application 2005/106276 discloses an oral pharmaceutical composition useful in the treatment of diabetes and hyperlipidemia, comprising several plant extracts, including extracts of peony roots.
  • Topical compositions for the skin comprising an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews are described in patents JP 2004269382 and JP 2006124356.
  • a hydro-glycolic extract of Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews has an antioxidant activity and can be used in cosmetic anti-wrinkle compositions.
  • Patent Application JP 2002121126 describes a lotion with lightening and soothing properties of skin irritations containing a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa.
  • Patent FR 2835430 discloses nanocapsules coated with lecithin limiting discomfort sensations caused by acrylamide polymers used as thickeners in cosmetic compositions; various actives can be incorporated into the nanocapsules, including an extract of Paeonia.
  • the blue lotus (Nymphaea caerulea), which grows on the edges of lakes and rivers, was already used in ancient Egypt for its sweet scent and its sedative medicinal qualities. Its stems, rhizomes and seeds were consumed as a food product.
  • the sacred lotus which belongs to another species, Nelumbo nucifera, different in origin and composition, contains enzymes such as methyl transferase with an anti-aging effect, as indicated in US Patent 6,468,564.
  • Nymphaea especially the lotus, and water lilies contain, in all parts, water lily and nupharine, which are alkaloids, as well as other ill-defined components.
  • the application WO 2006/000708 describes a composition associating a blue lotus extract and a poppy extract or a marshmallow extract, intended to combat the signs of skin aging, in particular expression lines.
  • the patent application KR 20090055958 describes the combination of an extract of Poncirus trifoliate and a blue lotus extract in a cosmetic composition providing an astringent effect and a protective effect against irritation of the skin.
  • the patent KR 100787782 describes the same protective effect of Nymphaea caerulea.
  • compositions of the invention are distinguished in that they comprise an extract of a plant of the species Paeonia suffruticosa in association with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea in an amount effective to provide a soothing topical action of the epidermis, as well as acceptable carriers and excipients in dermatology and cosmetology.
  • the subject of the present invention is therefore a novel cosmetic and / or dermatological composition based on extract of Paeonia suffruticosa in association with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea.
  • Such a composition has excellent properties used in cosmetics and dermatology for the protection of the skin, more particularly to provide a soothing topical action.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for providing a soothing topical action and promoting the well-being of the skin, comprising applying to the areas of the skin concerned a topical composition containing an effective amount of the combination of Paeonia suffruticosa extract and Nymphaea caerulea extract according to the present invention.
  • the subject of the invention is also a dermatological pharmaceutical composition based on an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and an extract of Nymphaea caerulea for the protection of the epidermis and more particularly to provide a soothing topical action.
  • the invention further relates to the use of an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and an extract of Nymphaea caerulea in combination, for the preparation of a non-therapeutic cosmetic topical composition to provide a soothing action of the epidermis.
  • compositions according to the present invention are distinguished in that they comprise an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa in combination with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea in an amount effective to provide protection of the epidermis, more particularly a soothing action, as well as carriers and excipients acceptable in dermatology and cosmetology.
  • topical compositions of the invention based on extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and extract of Nymphaea caerulea can be advantageously used in dermatology and cosmetology for the treatment and prevention of itching sensations and topical pain.
  • the active agent is constituted by the combination of extracts of the plants Nymphaea caerulea Savigny and Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews.
  • the solvent used can advantageously be selected from water, alcohols, ketones, esters, ethers, chlorinated solvents, polyols or mixtures of two or more aforementioned miscible solvents.
  • a particular extract can be made for each plant or plant organ, depending on its properties, in order to optimize the extraction yield of the desired molecules or families of molecules.
  • extract should be understood as "plant cell extract” belonging to the aforementioned group and more specifically as “cell extract of at least one plant” of the aforementioned group.
  • Said plant can be obtained by in vitro culture or in vivo.
  • in vitro culture is meant all of the techniques known to those skilled in the art that artificially allow the production of a plant or part of a plant.
  • In vivo culture means all the cultivation techniques that make it possible to obtain a plant or a part of a plant.
  • the extract may be an organ extract (root, stem, leaf, bark) or even organ cells, at least one plant of the genus Paeonia or Nymphaea, or an undifferentiated cell extract. at least one such plant.
  • Example 1 relates to the liquid extraction, but other physicochemical methods can be employed, and for example extraction with supercritical CO 2 , alone or in mixture with a co-solvent. or the extraction technique based on wave radiation, such as microwaves or ultrasound.
  • any method of extraction or purification known to those skilled in the art can be used in the invention.
  • a first step the fresh, frozen or dry plant material is crushed in a cold aqueous solution, and in a second step, the aqueous solution is filtered which is finally sterilized.
  • This aqueous solution corresponds to the extract, which can then be dried (for example by evaporation, atomization or lyophilization).
  • the extract thus obtained can be evaporated to dryness, the residue being used as it is or after purification.
  • Each extract can then be fractionated so as to enrich it with the desired active ingredient.
  • the extracts used in the present invention can be made from all accessible parts of the plants.
  • seed extracts are preferably used.
  • the extracts of Paeonia suffruticosa and Nymphaea caerulea included in the compositions according to the present invention have shown, in the in vitro tests, described in greater detail below, a marked inhibitory power of the enzymes APN (aminopeptidase N) and NEP (neutral endopeptidase). .
  • APN aminopeptidase N
  • NEP neutral endopeptidase
  • the extracts used in the compositions of the invention are generally of the order of 0.05 to 15.0%, preferably between 0.2 and 5%, for the extract of Nymphaea caerulea and of the order of 0. 0.5 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 3%, for the Paeonia suffruticosa extract, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the extracts may be mixed to be incorporated in the composition and the amount of mixture used is generally between 0.05 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the ratio by weight of the extract of Paeonia suffruticosa to the Nymphaea caerulea extract is advantageously between 1: 1 and 1: 3, and preferably equal to 1: 2 or 1: 2.5.
  • the concentration of each of the components in the composition may be selected depending on the intended use and the mode of administration. For prolonged protective treatment, lower doses, in the form of cream or gel dosed at approximately 1 to 5% (total of the two components), are preferably used. while a spot treatment may require higher doses, for example a serum dosed between 6 and 12%, where, preferably, the doses of extracts of Nymphaea caerulea and Paeonia suffruticosa are higher.
  • these topical compositions can be used advantageously in dermatology and cosmetology for the treatment or prevention of itching sensations and topical pain.
  • These compositions can be used daily, one to several times a day, without limitation of treatment time.
  • compositions of the present invention are very well tolerated, they exhibit no phototoxicity and their application to the skin for prolonged periods of time does not imply any systemic effect.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and an extract of Nymphaea caerulea, secondary active agents which advantageously complement their activity, and which are compatible, that is to say not liable to react on each other or to mask or limit their respective effects.
  • the complementary active ingredients are chosen for their action, for example for sun protection, anti-wrinkle effect, antiradical and antioxidant activity, anti-irritant activity, cellular nutrition, cellular respiration, hydration and cellular regeneration, anti-seborrhoeic treatments, as well as other active ingredients having an effect on the cutaneous tonicity.
  • the secondary active agents may be chosen, for example, from a mimosa seed extract and a marigold seed extract favorably acting on the stimulation of neoformed collagens, Centella asiatica, a poppy extract, a marshmallow extract, cocoa polyphenols (preferably cocoa cells), hibiscus extract (Hibiscus abelmoschus), dill extract (Peucedaneum graveolens), monomethylsilanol, proline, or shea butter.
  • a mimosa seed extract and a marigold seed extract favorably acting on the stimulation of neoformed collagens, Centella asiatica, a poppy extract, a marshmallow extract, cocoa polyphenols (preferably cocoa cells), hibiscus extract (Hibiscus abelmoschus), dill extract (Peucedaneum graveolens), monomethylsilanol, proline, or shea butter.
  • compositions in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application. That is to say in the form of lotion, gel, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), biphasic emulsion oil-in-water or water-in-oil, triphasic emulsion, body oil, shampoo, hair lotion, mask, ointment, ointment, protective sticks for lips, nanocapsules, liposomes or transdermal patches, containing compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable excipients and carriers. They are preferably used in the form of cream, serum and gel.
  • Topical administration are prepared by the usual techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • creams it is preferred to use lamellar structure emulsions containing little or no ethoxylated products.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also take the form of a lotion or solution in which the extracts are in encapsulated form.
  • the microspheres according to the invention may for example consist of fatty substance, agar and water.
  • the extracts can be incorporated into liposomes, glycosphers, chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, nano-particles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules vectors and also be adsorbed onto powdery organic polymers, talcs , bentonites and other mineral supports.
  • emulsions have good stability and can be stored for the time necessary for use at temperatures between 0 and 50 ° C without sedimentation of the constituents or phase separation.
  • aqueous extract preferably with a hydroalcoholic extract.
  • the topical compositions according to the invention may comprise excipients suitable for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable excipients.
  • excipients suitable for external topical administration include in particular thickeners such as natural gums and synthetic polymers; gelling agents such as cellulose esters and carbopol; emollients and surfactants such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate, cetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), ethyl parahydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben) and Phenonip® associating phenoxyethanol and parahydroxybenzoates; dyes; antibacterial agents, perfumes; etc.
  • compositions of the invention are moisturizing agents such as propylene glycol, glycerine, butylene glycol, the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA sodium), and also antioxidant vitamins such as as vitamin E, for example tocopherol acetate or tocotrienol, vitamin C, natural polyphenols. It is also possible to add ultraviolet protection agents to the composition, and for example hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4.
  • moisturizing agents such as propylene glycol, glycerine, butylene glycol, the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA sodium), and also antioxidant vitamins such as as vitamin E, for example tocopherol acetate or tocotrienol, vitamin C, natural polyphenols.
  • antioxidant vitamins such as as vitamin E, for example tocopherol acetate or tocotrienol, vitamin C, natural polyphenols.
  • UV protection agents for
  • methoxy-benzophenone (Eusolex® 4360), or a cinnamic acid ester such as octyl methoxycinnamate (Eusolex® 2292), ethyl-2-hexyl methoxyninnamate (Parsol MCX®), or a cyano-, -diphenylacrylate such as octocrylene (Eusolex® OCR), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300®), and dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 8020), and t- Butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789®). It is also possible to use anti-ultraviolet screen pigments, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or aluminum oxide.
  • anti-ultraviolet screen pigments such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide,
  • the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use of extracts includes all body and skin care products including sun, protective and tanning products, anti-aging, anti-seborrhoeic, tonic products ensuring the improvement of the appearance of the skin, including anti-acne treatment and redness of the skin.
  • This example presents some experimental results of extraction on various selected plants.
  • a - Paeonia suffruticosa extract A - Paeonia suffruticosa extract:
  • the average yield is of the order of 15% B - Nymphaea caerulea extract:
  • the aim of this study is to determine the inhibitory powers of plant extracts against metalloproteinases aminopeptidases N (APN) and neprilysin (NEP).
  • APN metalloproteinases aminopeptidases N
  • NEP neprilysin
  • human soluble recombinant enzymes were used and their enzymatic activities evaluated using model Ala-B-naphthylamide substrates for APN and Suc-AAF-AMC for CIP.
  • NEP and APN are proteases, their enzymatic activity can be measured using appropriate substrates.
  • the most sensitive and most commonly used NEP assay is based on the Suc-Ala-Ala-Phe-AMC fluorogenic substrate (Spillantini et al., 1986, Yandle et al., 1992). NEP cleaves this substrate between Ala and Phe, and it is the addition of an excess of aminopeptidase N which releases the Phe residue and produces the AMC in fluorescent form. The fluorescence thus measured is proportional to the amount of enzyme present.
  • the APN activity is measured using the chromogenic or fluorigenic substrates L-Leucine / Alanine-para-nitroanilide or L-Leucine / Alanine-B-naphthylamide. In both cases, the APN cleaves between the amino acid Leucine or Alanine releasing either the chromophore para-nitroanilide or the fluorophore B-naphthylamide (Chen et al., 1999).
  • test conditions are as follows:
  • test conditions are as follows:
  • the active ingredient resulting from a 50/50 Paeonia / Nymphaea mixture thus produced has an inhibitory activity of the NEP and APN enzymes isolated with an IC50 of 36 mg / ml and 129 mg / ml, respectively.
  • a cosmetic cream is prepared having the composition indicated below.
  • Vegetable oils rosehip oil muscat / macadamia oil 4,5
  • This cream is used once or twice a day by application to the areas of the skin to be treated.
  • a serum is prepared having the weight composition indicated below.
  • This serum can be used once or twice a day on the areas of the skin to be treated, possibly in addition to treatment with a cream.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a composition usable in cosmetics. The composition is characterized in that it includes an effective amount of Paeonia suffruticosa extract combined with a Nymphaea caerulea extract. The invention can be used in cosmetic compositions for treating the sensations of topical itching and pain.

Description

COMPOSITION TOPIQUE APAISANTE A BASE D'EXTRAITS  SOOTHING TOPICAL COMPOSITION BASED ON EXTRACTS
DE PAEONIA ET DE NYMPHAEA  FROM PAEONIA AND NYMPHAEA
La présente invention concerne une nouvelle composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique destinée à assurer la protection de l'épiderme, et plus particulièrement une composition à base d'une association d'extraits de plantes du genre Paeonia et Nymphaea présentant une action biologique apaisante sur la peau. The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to ensure the protection of the epidermis, and more particularly to a composition based on a combination of plant extracts of the genus Paeonia and Nymphaea having a soothing biological action on the skin. skin.
La peau comprend plusieurs couches intégrées, allant de la couche superficielle, l'épiderme, jusqu'aux couches plus profondes, le derme et l'hypoderme, et chacune possède des propriétés spécifiques permettant à l'ensemble de réagir et de s'adapter aux conditions de son environnement.  The skin has several integrated layers, ranging from the superficial layer, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to conditions of its environment.
L'épiderme, principalement composé de kératinocytes, de mélanocytes et des cellules de Langerhans, constitue la couche externe de la peau, et joue un rôle fondamental pour assurer la protection et le maintien d'une bonne trophicité. C'est pourquoi de nombreuses compositions ont été mises au point afin de le protéger et d'améliorer ses fonctions.  The epidermis, composed mainly of keratinocytes, melanocytes and Langerhans cells, constitutes the outer layer of the skin, and plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. That's why many compositions have been developed to protect it and improve its functions.
Le derme se compose principalement de collagène, d'élastine et de protéoglycanes, molécules synthétisées par les fibroblastes dermiques. Les fibres de collagène assurent la résistance mécanique et la texture de la peau, l'élastine est responsable de l'élasticité, et les protéoglycanes jouent un rôle majeur de structure et d'hydratation de la peau. D'autres cellules comme les macrophages et les leucocytes sont également présentes dans la couche du derme. L'hypoderme, qui est la couche la plus profonde de la peau, contient les adipocytes qui produisent des lipides pour que le tissu sous-cutané fabrique une couche grasse protégeant les muscles, les os et les organes internes contre les chocs.  The dermis consists mainly of collagen, elastin and proteoglycans, molecules synthesized by dermal fibroblasts. Collagen fibers provide the mechanical strength and texture of the skin, elastin is responsible for elasticity, and proteoglycans play a major role in the structure and hydration of the skin. Other cells such as macrophages and leucocytes are also present in the dermis layer. The hypodermis, which is the deepest layer of skin, contains lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a fat layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.
La peau, et chacune de ses couches constitutives, peut subir des agressions et des dégradations provoquées par des causes internes ou externes, qui peuvent se traduire par exemple par des sensations de démangeaison et de douleurs topiques. Les enképhalines sont des neurotransmetteurs libérés par des neurones lors de sensations de douleurs intenses. Elles ont pour rôle d'inhiber la propagation de la douleur depuis les nocicepteurs, c'est-à-dire les terminaisons nerveuses présentes dans le derme et l'épiderme, jusqu'au cerveau, responsable de la perception de la douleur. Ce sont des molécules endogènes qui peuvent se fixer sur les récepteurs des neurones nociceptifs et rendre moins intense la sensation de douleur, exerçant ainsi un effet analgésique. Les enképhalines peuvent aussi se fixer sur les récepteurs opioïdes dans le cerveau, ce qui stimule la libération de dopamine par les neurones à dopamine et a pour effet d'augmenter la sensation de plaisir. The skin, and each of its constituent layers, can undergo aggression and degradation caused by internal or external causes, which can be expressed for example by itching sensations and topical pain. Enkephalins are neurotransmitters released by neurons during intense pain sensations. Their role is to inhibit the spread of pain from the nociceptors, that is to say the nerve endings in the dermis and epidermis, to the brain, responsible for the perception of pain. These are endogenous molecules that can bind to nociceptive neuron receptors and make the sensation of pain less intense, thus exerting an analgesic effect. Enkephalins can also bind to opioid receptors in the brain, which stimulates the release of dopamine by dopamine neurons and increases the sensation of pleasure.
Cependant, ces effets sont éphémères car les enképhalines sont très rapidement dégradées par des enzymes (hNEP, hAP-N) qui appartiennent au groupe des enképhalinases, très présentes dans la peau. En inhibant ces enképhalinases, on peut donc prolonger la durée de vie des enképhalines et par conséquent augmenter le sensation de bien-être et d'apaisement de la douleur.  However, these effects are ephemeral because enkephalins are very quickly degraded by enzymes (hNEP, hAP-N) which belong to the group of enkephalinases, very present in the skin. By inhibiting these enkephalinases, it is therefore possible to prolong the life of the enkephalins and consequently to increase the feeling of well-being and easing of the pain.
Les études réalisées par la demanderesse ont montré que des extraits de certaines plantes ont des activités biologiques et biochimiques en rapport avec les propriétés apaisantes via l'inhibition des enképhalinases, et que, plus particulièrement, l'association de plantes des genres botaniques Paeonia et Nymphaea procure des activités apaisantes via l'inhibition des enképhalinases.  The studies carried out by the Applicant have shown that extracts of certain plants have biological and biochemical activities related to the soothing properties via the inhibition of enkephalinases, and that, more particularly, the association of plants of the botanical genera Paeonia and Nymphaea. provides soothing activities via inhibition of enkephalinases.
La pivoine, genre Paeonia, est une plante vivace, herbacée ou arbustive selon les diverses espèces connues, appartenant à la famille des Paeoniaceae, originaire de plusieurs régions d'Europe et d'Extrême-Orient, en particulier de Chine. Elle est bien connue comme plante ornementale mais elle a été utilisée dès l'antiquité comme plante médicinale chez les Grecs comme en médecine traditionnelle chinoise, notamment pour faciliter la circulation sanguine ou pour le traitement de fièvres, de fibromes ou d'abcès.  The peony, genus Paeonia, is a perennial, herbaceous or shrubby plant according to the various known species, belonging to the family of Paeoniaceae, originating from several regions of Europe and the Far East, in particular from China. It is well known as an ornamental plant but it has been used since ancient times as a medicinal plant in Greeks as well as in traditional Chinese medicine, especially to facilitate blood circulation or for the treatment of fevers, fibroids or abscesses.
La demande de brevet US 2005/106276 décrit une composition pharmaceutique utile par voie orale dans le traitement du diabète et de l'hyperlipidémie, comprenant plusieurs extraits de plantes, dont des extraits de racines de pivoine. Des compositions topiques pour la peau comprenant un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews sont décrites dans les brevets JP 2004269382 et JP 2006124356. Selon le brevet KR 2008098925, un extrait hydro-glycolique de Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews possède une activité anti-oxydante et peut être utilisé dans des compositions cosmétiques antirides. La demande de brevet JP 2002121126 décrit une lotion présentant des propriétés d'éclaircissement et d'apaisement des irritations de la peau contenant un extrait de racines de Paeonia suffruticosa. Le brevet FR 2835430 décrit des nanocapsules enrobées de lécithine limitant les sensations d'inconfort provoquées par les polymères d'acrylamide utilisés comme épaississants dans des compositions cosmétiques ; divers actifs peuvent être incorporés dans les nanocapsules, notamment un extrait de Paeonia. US Patent Application 2005/106276 discloses an oral pharmaceutical composition useful in the treatment of diabetes and hyperlipidemia, comprising several plant extracts, including extracts of peony roots. Topical compositions for the skin comprising an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews are described in patents JP 2004269382 and JP 2006124356. According to patent KR 2008098925, a hydro-glycolic extract of Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews has an antioxidant activity and can be used in cosmetic anti-wrinkle compositions. Patent Application JP 2002121126 describes a lotion with lightening and soothing properties of skin irritations containing a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa. Patent FR 2835430 discloses nanocapsules coated with lecithin limiting discomfort sensations caused by acrylamide polymers used as thickeners in cosmetic compositions; various actives can be incorporated into the nanocapsules, including an extract of Paeonia.
Le lotus bleu (Nymphaea caerulea), qui pousse sur les bords des lacs et des fleuves, était déjà utilisé en Egypte antique pour son parfum suave et ses qualités médicinales sédatives. Sa tige, ses rhizomes et ses graines étaient consommés comme produit alimentaire. Le lotus sacré, qui appartient à une autre espèce, Nelumbo nucifera, différente par son origine et sa composition, contient des enzymes telles que la méthyl transférase présentant un effet anti-âge, comme indiqué dans le brevet US 6.468.564.  The blue lotus (Nymphaea caerulea), which grows on the edges of lakes and rivers, was already used in ancient Egypt for its sweet scent and its sedative medicinal qualities. Its stems, rhizomes and seeds were consumed as a food product. The sacred lotus, which belongs to another species, Nelumbo nucifera, different in origin and composition, contains enzymes such as methyl transferase with an anti-aging effect, as indicated in US Patent 6,468,564.
Les Nymphaea, et en particulier le lotus, ainsi que les nénuphars contiennent, dans toutes leurs parties, de la nymphéine et de la nupharine, qui sont des alcaloïdes, ainsi que d'autres composants mal définis.  Nymphaea, especially the lotus, and water lilies contain, in all parts, water lily and nupharine, which are alkaloids, as well as other ill-defined components.
La demande WO 2006/000708 décrit une composition associant un extrait de lotus bleu et un extrait de coquelicot ou un extrait de guimauve, destinée à lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutané, en particulier les rides d'expression. La demande de brevet KR 20090055958 décrit l'association d'un extrait de Poncirus trifoliate et d'un extrait de lotus bleu dans une composition cosmétique procurant un effet astringent et un effet protecteur contre l'irritation de la peau. Le brevet KR 100787782 décrit le même effet protecteur de Nymphaea caerulea.  The application WO 2006/000708 describes a composition associating a blue lotus extract and a poppy extract or a marshmallow extract, intended to combat the signs of skin aging, in particular expression lines. The patent application KR 20090055958 describes the combination of an extract of Poncirus trifoliate and a blue lotus extract in a cosmetic composition providing an astringent effect and a protective effect against irritation of the skin. The patent KR 100787782 describes the same protective effect of Nymphaea caerulea.
Bien que de nombreuses compositions dermatologiques et cosmétiques aient été proposées, il existe toujours un besoin de pouvoir disposer de nouvelles compositions topiques alternatives permettant de protéger la peau et de favoriser son bien-être, et notamment des compositions topiques à base d'extraits végétaux appropriés provenant plus particulièrement de plantes connues pour leurs propriétés favorables à une telle activité. Although many dermatological and cosmetic compositions have been proposed, there is still a need for new information alternative topical compositions for protecting the skin and promoting its well-being, and in particular topical compositions based on appropriate plant extracts derived more particularly from plants known for their properties favorable to such activity.
Les études effectuées par la demanderesse ont montré qu'il est possible de protéger la peau, de favoriser la sensation de bien-être et de procurer une action biologique topique apaisante, en utilisant des compositions topiques à base d'extraits d'une plante de l'espèce Paeonia suffruticosa en association avec un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea. En effet, les études ont montré qu'un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa en association avec un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea possède une action efficace comme inhibiteur des enképhalinases.  The studies carried out by the applicant have shown that it is possible to protect the skin, to promote the feeling of well-being and to provide a soothing topical biological action, by using topical compositions based on extracts of a plant from the species Paeonia suffruticosa in association with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea. Indeed, studies have shown that an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa in combination with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea has an effective action as an inhibitor of enkephalinases.
Les compositions de l'invention se distinguent en ce qu'elles comprennent un extrait d'une plante de l'espèce Paeonia suffruticosa en association avec un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea en une quantité efficace pour procurer une action topique apaisante de l'épiderme, ainsi que des supports et excipients acceptables en dermatologie et en cosmétologie.  The compositions of the invention are distinguished in that they comprise an extract of a plant of the species Paeonia suffruticosa in association with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea in an amount effective to provide a soothing topical action of the epidermis, as well as acceptable carriers and excipients in dermatology and cosmetology.
La présente invention a donc pour objet une nouvelle composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique à base d'extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa en association avec un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea.  The subject of the present invention is therefore a novel cosmetic and / or dermatological composition based on extract of Paeonia suffruticosa in association with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea.
Une telle composition présente d'excellentes propriétés utilisables en cosmétique et en dermatologie pour la protection de la peau, plus particulièrement pour procurer une action topique apaisante.  Such a composition has excellent properties used in cosmetics and dermatology for the protection of the skin, more particularly to provide a soothing topical action.
La présente invention a encore pour objet un procédé cosmétique non thérapeutique pour procurer une action topique apaisante et favoriser le bien-être de la peau, consistant à appliquer sur les zones de la peau concernées une composition topique contenant une quantité efficace de l'association d'extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa et d'extrait de Nymphaea caerulea selon la présente invention.  The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for providing a soothing topical action and promoting the well-being of the skin, comprising applying to the areas of the skin concerned a topical composition containing an effective amount of the combination of Paeonia suffruticosa extract and Nymphaea caerulea extract according to the present invention.
L'invention a également pour objet une composition pharmaceutique dermatologique à base d'un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa et d'un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea pour la protection de l'épiderme et plus particulièrement pour procurer une action topique apaisante. The subject of the invention is also a dermatological pharmaceutical composition based on an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and an extract of Nymphaea caerulea for the protection of the epidermis and more particularly to provide a soothing topical action.
L'invention a encore pour objet l'utilisation d'un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa et d'un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea en association, pour la préparation d'une composition topique cosmétique non thérapeutique pour procurer une action apaisante de l'épiderme.  The invention further relates to the use of an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and an extract of Nymphaea caerulea in combination, for the preparation of a non-therapeutic cosmetic topical composition to provide a soothing action of the epidermis.
Les compositions suivant la présente invention se distinguent en ce qu'elles comprennent un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa en association avec un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea en une quantité efficace pour procurer une protection de l'épiderme, plus particulièrement une action apaisante, ainsi que des supports et excipients acceptables en dermatologie et en cosmétologie.  The compositions according to the present invention are distinguished in that they comprise an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa in combination with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea in an amount effective to provide protection of the epidermis, more particularly a soothing action, as well as carriers and excipients acceptable in dermatology and cosmetology.
Ainsi, les compositions topiques de l'invention à base d'extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa et d'extrait de Nymphaea caerulea peuvent être utilisées avantageusement en dermatologie et en cosmétologie pour le traitement et la prévention des sensations de démangeaison et de douleurs topiques.  Thus, the topical compositions of the invention based on extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and extract of Nymphaea caerulea can be advantageously used in dermatology and cosmetology for the treatment and prevention of itching sensations and topical pain.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, aboutissant à des extraits dont les activités sont optimisées qualitativement et quantitativement en ce qui concerne les propriétés revendiquées, l'agent actif est constitué par l'association d'extraits des plantes Nymphaea caerulea Savigny et Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews.  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, resulting in extracts whose activities are optimized qualitatively and quantitatively with regard to the properties claimed, the active agent is constituted by the combination of extracts of the plants Nymphaea caerulea Savigny and Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews.
Les essais effectués par la demanderesse ont montré que l'on peut utiliser toutes les parties de chacune des plantes, aussi bien les racines que les parties aériennes, notamment les écorces, les tiges, les feuilles, les fleurs, les fruits et les graines. Les espèces Nymphaea caerulea Savigny et Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews sont facilement disponibles et la conservation des plantes ne soulève généralement pas de difficulté technique.  The tests carried out by the applicant have shown that it is possible to use all the parts of each of the plants, both the roots and the aerial parts, in particular the bark, the stems, the leaves, the flowers, the fruits and the seeds. The species Nymphaea caerulea Savigny and Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews are readily available and the conservation of plants does not generally raise any technical difficulty.
Après collecte, les parties de plantes concernées sont, directement ou après séchage, soumises à un procédé d'extraction, le solvant mis en œuvre pouvant avantageusement être choisi parmi l'eau, les alcools, les cétones, les esters, les éthers, les solvants chlorés, les polyols ou les mélanges d'au moins deux solvants précités miscibles. Un extrait particulier peut être réalisé pour chaque plante ou organe de plante, en fonction de ses propriétés, afin d'optimiser le rendement d'extraction des molécules ou familles de molécules recherchées. After collection, the plant parts concerned are, directly or after drying, subjected to an extraction process, the solvent used can advantageously be selected from water, alcohols, ketones, esters, ethers, chlorinated solvents, polyols or mixtures of two or more aforementioned miscible solvents. A particular extract can be made for each plant or plant organ, depending on its properties, in order to optimize the extraction yield of the desired molecules or families of molecules.
Dans la présente demande, le terme "extrait" doit s'entendre comme "extrait de cellules des plantes" appartenant au groupe précité et plus précisément comme "extrait de cellules d'au moins un végétal" du groupe précité. Ledit végétal peut être obtenu par culture in vitro ou in vivo. Par culture in vitro, on entend l'ensemble des techniques connues de l'homme du métier qui permettent de manière artificielle l'obtention d'un végétal ou d'une partie d'un végétal. Par culture in vivo, on entend l'ensemble des techniques de cultures qui permettent d'obtenir un végétal ou une partie d'un végétal. Ainsi, l'extrait peut être un extrait d'organe (racine, tige, feuille, écorce), voire de cellules d'organe, d'au moins une plante du genre Paeonia ou Nymphaea, ou encore un extrait de cellules indifférenciées d'au moins une telle plante.  In the present application, the term "extract" should be understood as "plant cell extract" belonging to the aforementioned group and more specifically as "cell extract of at least one plant" of the aforementioned group. Said plant can be obtained by in vitro culture or in vivo. By in vitro culture is meant all of the techniques known to those skilled in the art that artificially allow the production of a plant or part of a plant. In vivo culture means all the cultivation techniques that make it possible to obtain a plant or a part of a plant. Thus, the extract may be an organ extract (root, stem, leaf, bark) or even organ cells, at least one plant of the genus Paeonia or Nymphaea, or an undifferentiated cell extract. at least one such plant.
Plusieurs procédés pouvant être mis en œuvre pour la préparation des extraits de plantes de l'invention sont décrits ci-après à titre d'exemples non limitatifs.  Several methods that can be implemented for the preparation of the plant extracts of the invention are described below by way of non-limiting examples.
La technique décrite dans l'Exemple 1 ci-après concerne l'extraction liquide, mais d'autres procédés physico-chimiques peuvent être employés, et par exemple l'extraction par le C02 supercritique, seul ou en mélange avec un co-solvant ou la technique d'extraction basée sur le rayonnement ondulatoire, tel que les microondes ou les ultrasons. The technique described in Example 1 below relates to the liquid extraction, but other physicochemical methods can be employed, and for example extraction with supercritical CO 2 , alone or in mixture with a co-solvent. or the extraction technique based on wave radiation, such as microwaves or ultrasound.
Toute méthode d'extraction ou de purification connue de l'homme du métier peut être utilisée dans l'invention. Dans une première étape, on broie le matériel végétal frais, congelé ou sec dans une solution aqueuse à froid, et dans une seconde étape, on filtre la solution aqueuse qui est finalement stérilisée. Cette solution aqueuse correspond à l'extrait,qui peut ensuite être séché (par exemple par évaporation, atomisation ou lyophilisation). Dans une variante de ce procédé, on peut utiliser dans la première étape une solution méthanolique, éthanolique ou hydro-alcoolique. L'extrait ainsi obtenu peut être évaporé à sec, le résidu étant utilisé tel quel ou après purification. Chaque extrait peut alors être fractionné de façon à l'enrichir en principe actif recherché. Any method of extraction or purification known to those skilled in the art can be used in the invention. In a first step, the fresh, frozen or dry plant material is crushed in a cold aqueous solution, and in a second step, the aqueous solution is filtered which is finally sterilized. This aqueous solution corresponds to the extract, which can then be dried (for example by evaporation, atomization or lyophilization). In a variant of this process, it is possible to use in the first step a methanolic, ethanolic or aqueous-alcoholic solution. The extract thus obtained can be evaporated to dryness, the residue being used as it is or after purification. Each extract can then be fractionated so as to enrich it with the desired active ingredient.
Les parties de plantes utilisées dans les exemples ci-après sont données à titre purement indicatif, les extraits utilisés dans la présente invention pouvant être réalisés à partir de toutes les parties accessibles des plantes. Dans le cas de Nymphaea, on utilise de préférence des extraits de graines.  The plant parts used in the examples below are given for information only, the extracts used in the present invention can be made from all accessible parts of the plants. In the case of Nymphaea, seed extracts are preferably used.
Les extraits de Paeonia suffruticosa et de Nymphaea caerulea inclus dans les compositions suivant la présente invention ont montré dans les tests in vitro, décrits plus en détail ci-après, un net pouvoir inhibiteur des enzymes APN (aminopeptidase N) et NEP (endopeptidase neutre). Les résultats des tests in vitro confirment que l'association des deux extraits procure un excellent effet inhibiteur s'exerçant de manière comparable à celui d'inhibiteurs de référence tels que la Bestatine et le PL804, et supérieurs à celui de chaque composant isolément, traduisant un effet de synergie sur les propriétés apaisantes de l'association. Ces résultats in vitro sont confirmés par les tests d'utilisation, qui ont mis en évidence un excellent effet topique apaisant sans effet secondaire néfaste et avec une excellente tolérance cutanée.  The extracts of Paeonia suffruticosa and Nymphaea caerulea included in the compositions according to the present invention have shown, in the in vitro tests, described in greater detail below, a marked inhibitory power of the enzymes APN (aminopeptidase N) and NEP (neutral endopeptidase). . The results of the in vitro tests confirm that the combination of the two extracts provides an excellent inhibitory effect acting in a manner comparable to that of reference inhibitors such as Bestatin and PL804, and superior to that of each component in isolation, translating a synergistic effect on the soothing properties of the association. These in vitro results are confirmed by use tests, which have demonstrated an excellent soothing topical effect without harmful side effects and excellent skin tolerance.
Les extraits utilisés dans les compositions de l'invention sont généralement de l'ordre de 0,05 à 15,0%, de préférence entre 0,2 et 5%, pour l'extrait de Nymphaea caerulea et de l'ordre de 0,05 à 5%, de préférence de 0, 1 à 3%, pour l'extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les extraits peuvent être mélangés pour être incorporés dans la composition et la quantité de mélange utilisée est généralement comprise entre 0,05 et 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Le rapport en poids de l'extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa à l'extrait de Nymphaea caerulea est avantageusement compris entre 1 : 1 et 1 :3, et de préférence égal à 1 :2 ou 1 :2,5.  The extracts used in the compositions of the invention are generally of the order of 0.05 to 15.0%, preferably between 0.2 and 5%, for the extract of Nymphaea caerulea and of the order of 0. 0.5 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 3%, for the Paeonia suffruticosa extract, relative to the total weight of the composition. The extracts may be mixed to be incorporated in the composition and the amount of mixture used is generally between 0.05 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ratio by weight of the extract of Paeonia suffruticosa to the Nymphaea caerulea extract is advantageously between 1: 1 and 1: 3, and preferably equal to 1: 2 or 1: 2.5.
La concentration en chacun des composants dans la composition peut être choisie en fonction de l'utilisation envisagée et du mode d'administration. Pour un traitement protecteur prolongé, on utilise de préférence des doses plus faibles, sous forme de crème ou de gel dosé à environ 1 à 5% (total des deux composants), tandis qu'un traitement ponctuel peut nécessiter des doses plus élevées, par exemple un sérum dosé entre 6 et 12%, où, de préférence, les doses d'extraits de Nymphaea caerulea et de Paeonia suffruticosa sont plus élevées. The concentration of each of the components in the composition may be selected depending on the intended use and the mode of administration. For prolonged protective treatment, lower doses, in the form of cream or gel dosed at approximately 1 to 5% (total of the two components), are preferably used. while a spot treatment may require higher doses, for example a serum dosed between 6 and 12%, where, preferably, the doses of extracts of Nymphaea caerulea and Paeonia suffruticosa are higher.
Ainsi, ces compositions topiques peuvent être utilisées avantageusement en dermatologie et en cosmétologie pour le traitement ou la prévention des sensations de démangeaison et de douleurs topiques. Ces compositions peuvent être utilisées quotidiennement, une à plusieurs fois par jour, sans limitation de durée de traitement.  Thus, these topical compositions can be used advantageously in dermatology and cosmetology for the treatment or prevention of itching sensations and topical pain. These compositions can be used daily, one to several times a day, without limitation of treatment time.
Les compositions cosmétiques de la présente invention sont très bien tolérées, elles ne présentent aucune phototoxicité et leur application sur la peau, pour des périodes de temps prolongées, n'implique aucun effet systémique.  The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are very well tolerated, they exhibit no phototoxicity and their application to the skin for prolonged periods of time does not imply any systemic effect.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent contenir, outre un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa et un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea, des actifs secondaires complétant avantageusement leur activité, et compatibles, c'est-à-dire non susceptibles de réagir les uns sur les autres ou de masquer ou limiter leurs effets respectifs. Les principes actifs complémentaires sont choisis pour leur action, par exemple pour la protection solaire, l'effet anti-rides, l'activité antiradicalaire et antioxydante, l'activité anti-irritante, la nutrition cellulaire, la respiration cellulaire, l'hydratation et la régénération cellulaire, les traitements anti-sébor- rhéïques, ainsi que d'autres principes actifs ayant une action sur la tonicité cutanée.  The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and an extract of Nymphaea caerulea, secondary active agents which advantageously complement their activity, and which are compatible, that is to say not liable to react on each other or to mask or limit their respective effects. The complementary active ingredients are chosen for their action, for example for sun protection, anti-wrinkle effect, antiradical and antioxidant activity, anti-irritant activity, cellular nutrition, cellular respiration, hydration and cellular regeneration, anti-seborrhoeic treatments, as well as other active ingredients having an effect on the cutaneous tonicity.
Plus particulièrement, les actifs secondaires peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi un extrait de graines de mimosa et un extrait de graines de souci agissant favorablement sur la stimulation des collagènes néoformés, de la Centella asiatica, un extrait de coquelicot, un extrait de guimauve, des polyphénols de cacao (de préférence de cellules de cacao), un extrait d'hibiscus (Hibiscus abelmoschus), un extrait d'aneth (Peucedaneum graveolens), du monométhyl- silanol, de la proline, ou encore du beurre de Karité.  More particularly, the secondary active agents may be chosen, for example, from a mimosa seed extract and a marigold seed extract favorably acting on the stimulation of neoformed collagens, Centella asiatica, a poppy extract, a marshmallow extract, cocoa polyphenols (preferably cocoa cells), hibiscus extract (Hibiscus abelmoschus), dill extract (Peucedaneum graveolens), monomethylsilanol, proline, or shea butter.
Les compositions conformes à la présente invention peuvent être présentées sous les formes galéniques classiquement utilisées pour une application topique, c'est-à-dire sous forme de lotion, gel, émulsion (en particulier crème ou lait), émulsion biphasique huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile, émulsion triphasique, huile corporelle, shampooing, lotion capillaire, masque, onguent, pommade, bâtons protecteur pour les lèvres, nanocapsules, liposomes ou encore des patches transdermiques, contenant des excipients et supports usuels compatibles et pharma- ceutiquement acceptables. Elles sont utilisées de préférence sous forme de crème, sérum et gel. The compositions in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application. that is to say in the form of lotion, gel, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), biphasic emulsion oil-in-water or water-in-oil, triphasic emulsion, body oil, shampoo, hair lotion, mask, ointment, ointment, protective sticks for lips, nanocapsules, liposomes or transdermal patches, containing compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable excipients and carriers. They are preferably used in the form of cream, serum and gel.
Ces formes d'administration par voie topique sont préparées par les techniques usuelles, et par exemple, dans le cas d'une crème, par dispersion d'une phase grasse dans une phase aqueuse pour obtenir une émulsion huile dans eau, ou inversement pour préparer une émulsion eau dans huile. Dans le cas de crèmes, on préfère utiliser des émulsions à structure lamellaire contenant peu de produits éthoxylés ou n'en contenant pas du tout.  These forms of topical administration are prepared by the usual techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion. In the case of creams, it is preferred to use lamellar structure emulsions containing little or no ethoxylated products.
Les compositions cosmétiques suivant l'invention peuvent aussi prendre la forme de lotion ou solution dans laquelle les extraits sont sous forme encapsulée. Les microsphères suivant l'invention peuvent par exemple être constituées de corps gras, d'agar et d'eau. Les extraits peuvent être incorporés dans des vecteurs de type liposomes, glycosphères, dans des chylomicrons, des macro-, micro-, nano-particules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules et aussi être adsorbés sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux.  The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also take the form of a lotion or solution in which the extracts are in encapsulated form. The microspheres according to the invention may for example consist of fatty substance, agar and water. The extracts can be incorporated into liposomes, glycosphers, chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, nano-particles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules vectors and also be adsorbed onto powdery organic polymers, talcs , bentonites and other mineral supports.
Ces émulsions présentent une bonne stabilité et peuvent être conservées pendant le temps nécessaire pour l'utilisation à des températures comprises entre 0 et 50 °C sans qu'il y ait sédimentation des constituants ou séparation des phases.  These emulsions have good stability and can be stored for the time necessary for use at temperatures between 0 and 50 ° C without sedimentation of the constituents or phase separation.
Dans le cas des nanocapsules, des glycosphères et des liposomes, il peut être avantageux d'utiliser un extrait aqueux de préférence à un extrait hydroalcoolique.  In the case of nanocapsules, glycosphères and liposomes, it may be advantageous to use an aqueous extract, preferably with a hydroalcoholic extract.
Les compositions topiques selon l'invention peuvent comprendre des excipients appropriés pour une administration topique externe, en particulier des excipients acceptables sur le plan dermatologique et cosmétologique. Ces excipients appropriés pour la formulation sont bien connus de l'homme du métier et comprennent en particulier des épaississants tels que les gommes naturelles et les polymères de synthèse ; des gélifiants tels que des esters de cellulose et le carbopol ; des émollients et des tensioactifs tels que l'octanoate de cétéaryle, le myristate d'isopropyle, l'isononanoate de cétéaryle, la diméthicone, la cyclométhi- cone, le 3-diisostéarate de polyglycéryle, l'alcool cétylique, le palmitate cétylique ; des conservateurs tels que le phénoxyéthanol, le parahydroxybenzoate de méthyle (méthylparaben), le parahydroxybenzoate d'éthyle (éthylparaben) et le Phenonip® associant du phénoxyéthanol et des parahydroxybenzoates ; des colorants ; des agents antibactériens, des parfums ; etc. The topical compositions according to the invention may comprise excipients suitable for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable excipients. These Suitable excipients for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art and include in particular thickeners such as natural gums and synthetic polymers; gelling agents such as cellulose esters and carbopol; emollients and surfactants such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate, cetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), ethyl parahydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben) and Phenonip® associating phenoxyethanol and parahydroxybenzoates; dyes; antibacterial agents, perfumes; etc.
D'autres ingrédients utilisables dans les compositions de l'invention sont les agents hydratants tels que le propylène glycol, la glycérine, le butylène glycol, le sel de sodium de l'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique (sodium PCA), et également les vitamines antioxydantes telles que la vitamine E, par exemple l'acétate de tocophérol ou le tocotriénol, la vitamine C, les polyphénols naturels. On peut également ajouter à la composition des agents de protection contre les rayons ultraviolets, et par exemple des filtres solaires UV-A et UV-B hydrophiles ou lipophiles, choisis parmi la benzophénone ou un dérivé de benzophénone tel que la 2-hydroxy-4-méthoxy-benzophénone (Eusolex® 4360), ou un ester d'acide cinnamique tel que le méthoxycinnamate d'octyle (Eusolex® 2292), le méthoxy- cinnamate d'éthyl-2-hexyle (Parsol MCX®), ou encore un cyano- , -diphényl- acrylate tel que l'octocrylène (Eusolex® OCR), le 4-méthylbenzylidène camphre (Eusolex 6300®), et des dérivés du dibenzoylméthane tels que le 4-isopropyl dibenzoylméthane (Eusolex 8020), et le t-butyl-méthoxy dibenzoylméthane (Parsol 1789®). On peut aussi utiliser des pigments formant écran anti-ultraviolet, comme par exemple le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc, l'oxyde de zirconium ou encore l'oxyde d'aluminium.  Other ingredients that can be used in the compositions of the invention are moisturizing agents such as propylene glycol, glycerine, butylene glycol, the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA sodium), and also antioxidant vitamins such as as vitamin E, for example tocopherol acetate or tocotrienol, vitamin C, natural polyphenols. It is also possible to add ultraviolet protection agents to the composition, and for example hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4. methoxy-benzophenone (Eusolex® 4360), or a cinnamic acid ester such as octyl methoxycinnamate (Eusolex® 2292), ethyl-2-hexyl methoxyninnamate (Parsol MCX®), or a cyano-, -diphenylacrylate such as octocrylene (Eusolex® OCR), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300®), and dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 8020), and t- Butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789®). It is also possible to use anti-ultraviolet screen pigments, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or aluminum oxide.
L'utilisation cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique d'extraits comprend tous les soins du corps et de la peau y compris les produits solaires, protecteurs et bronzants, les produits anti-âge, anti-séborrhéiques, toniques, les produits assurant l'amélioration de l'aspect de la peau y compris le traitement anti- acnéique et des rougeurs cutanées. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use of extracts includes all body and skin care products including sun, protective and tanning products, anti-aging, anti-seborrhoeic, tonic products ensuring the improvement of the appearance of the skin, including anti-acne treatment and redness of the skin.
Les exemples suivants illustrent l'invention plus en détail sans en limiter la portée. Dans tous les exemples de compositions qui suivent, les parties sont exprimées en poids, sauf indication contraire.  The following examples illustrate the invention in more detail without limiting its scope. In all of the following examples of compositions, parts are by weight unless otherwise indicated.
Exemple 1 Example 1
Cet exemple présente quelques résultats expérimentaux d'extraction sur différentes plantes sélectionnées.  This example presents some experimental results of extraction on various selected plants.
A - Extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa : A - Paeonia suffruticosa extract:
- 100 g d'organe séché de chaque plante sont broyés finement, puis placés dans un réacteur muni d'un agitateur avec 1 litre de solvant (eau, éthanol ou éthanol/eau 50/50 v/v)  100 g of dried organ of each plant are finely ground and then placed in a reactor equipped with a stirrer with 1 liter of solvent (water, ethanol or ethanol / water 50/50 v / v)
- macération, extraction de 8 heures à température ambiante.  - maceration, extraction for 8 hours at room temperature.
- filtration  - filtration
- évaporation du solvant  - evaporation of the solvent
- pesée et calcul de rendement. Le rendement moyen est de l'ordre de 15% B - Extrait de Nymphaea caerulea :  - weighing and yield calculation. The average yield is of the order of 15% B - Nymphaea caerulea extract:
- 100 g d'organe séché de chaque plante sont broyés finement, puis placés dans un réacteur muni d'un agitateur avec 1 litre de solvant (éthanol/eau 90/10 v/v)  100 g of dried organ of each plant are finely ground and then placed in a reactor equipped with a stirrer with 1 liter of solvent (ethanol / water 90/10 v / v)
- macération, extraction pendant 24 heures à température ambiante  - maceration, extraction for 24 hours at room temperature
- filtration  - filtration
- évaporation du solvant  - evaporation of the solvent
- pesée et calcul de rendement. Le rendement moyen est de l'ordre de 8%. Exemple 2 - weighing and yield calculation. The average yield is of the order of 8%. Example 2
Activité inhibitrice sur NEP et APN isolées de l'association d'un extrait de Paeonia avec un extrait de Nymphaea Inhibitory activity on NEP and APN isolated from the combination of a Paeonia extract with a Nymphaea extract
Le but de cette étude est de déterminer les pouvoirs inhibiteurs d'extraits de plantes envers les métalloprotéases aminopeptidases N (APN) et Néprilysine (NEP). Pour ce faire, les enzymes recombinantes solubles humaines ont été utilisées et leurs activités enzymatiques évaluées à l'aide des substrats modèles Ala-B-naphtylamide pour APN et Suc-AAF-AMC pour NEP. The aim of this study is to determine the inhibitory powers of plant extracts against metalloproteinases aminopeptidases N (APN) and neprilysin (NEP). To do this, human soluble recombinant enzymes were used and their enzymatic activities evaluated using model Ala-B-naphthylamide substrates for APN and Suc-AAF-AMC for CIP.
La NEP et l'APN étant des protéases, on peut mesurer leur activité enzymatique à l'aide de substrats appropriés. Le dosage de NEP le plus sensible et le plus communément utilisé repose sur le substrat fluorogénique Suc-Ala-Ala-Phe- AMC (Spillantini et al., 1986 ; Yandle et al., 1992). La NEP clive ce substrat entre Ala et Phe, et c'est l'ajout d'un excès d'aminopeptidase N qui libère le reste Phe et produit l'AMC sous forme fluorescente. La fluorescence ainsi mesurée est proportionnelle à la quantité d'enzyme présente. L'activité APN est mesurée à l'aide des substrats chromogéniques ou fluorigéniques L-Leucine/Alanine-para- nitroanilide ou L-Leucine/Alanine-B-naphtylamide. Dans les deux cas, l'APN clive entre l'acide aminé Leucine ou Alanine libérant soit le chromophore para- nitroanilide, soit le fluorophore B-naphtylamide (Chen et al. , 1999).  Since NEP and APN are proteases, their enzymatic activity can be measured using appropriate substrates. The most sensitive and most commonly used NEP assay is based on the Suc-Ala-Ala-Phe-AMC fluorogenic substrate (Spillantini et al., 1986, Yandle et al., 1992). NEP cleaves this substrate between Ala and Phe, and it is the addition of an excess of aminopeptidase N which releases the Phe residue and produces the AMC in fluorescent form. The fluorescence thus measured is proportional to the amount of enzyme present. The APN activity is measured using the chromogenic or fluorigenic substrates L-Leucine / Alanine-para-nitroanilide or L-Leucine / Alanine-B-naphthylamide. In both cases, the APN cleaves between the amino acid Leucine or Alanine releasing either the chromophore para-nitroanilide or the fluorophore B-naphthylamide (Chen et al., 1999).
A - Résultats sur APN A - Results on APN
Les conditions de tests sont les suivantes:  The test conditions are as follows:
- Tampon 50 mM Tris pH 7.4  - Buffer 50 mM Tris pH 7.4
- Substrat 50μΜ Lala β naphtylamide  - Substrate 50μΜ Lala β naphthylamide
- [Rh-APN] = 100ng/mL  - [Rh-APN] = 100ng / mL
- Pré-incubation 10min, Incubation 30 min à 37° C  - Preincubation 10min, Incubation 30 min at 37 ° C
- La référence positive est la bestatine.  - The positive reference is the bestatin.
Les résultats sur le mélange 50/50 Paeonia/Nymphaea codé S1 EG8070 sont représentés sur les graphes A et B de la Figure 1 montrant l'inhibition de l'APN par la Bestatine. B - Résultats sur NEP The results on the 50/50 Paeonia / Nymphaea mixture coded S1 EG8070 are shown in graphs A and B of Figure 1 showing the inhibition of NPA by Bestatin. B - Results on CIP
Les conditions de tests sont les suivantes:  The test conditions are as follows:
- Tampon: 50 mM Tris pH 7.4  - Buffer: 50 mM Tris pH 7.4
- Substrat: 20μΜ Suc Ala Ala Phe AMC  - Substrate: 20μΜ Suc Ala Ala Phe AMC
- [Rh-NEP] = 50ng/mL  - [Rh-NEP] = 50ng / mL
- Pré-incubation 10min, Incubation 60min à 37° C  - Preincubation 10min, Incubation 60min at 37 ° C
- La référence positive utilisée est le PL804.  - The positive reference used is PL804.
Les résultats sur le mélange 50/50 Paeonia/Nymphaea codé S1 EG8070 sont représentés sur les graphes A et B de la Figure 2 montrant l'inhibition de la NEP par le PL804.  The results on the 50/50 Paeonia / Nymphaea S1 EG8070-encoded mixture are shown in graphs A and B of Figure 2 showing the inhibition of NEP by PL804.
C - Synthèse des résultats sur APN et NEP  C - Synthesis of results on APN and NEP
L'actif résultant d'un mélange 50/50 Paeonia/Nymphaea ainsi réalisé présente une activité inhibitrice des enzymes NEP et APN isolées avec respectivement une IC50 de 36 Mg/ml et de 129 Mg/ml. Ces résultats, par comparaison avec ceux de la Bestatine et de PL804, sont révélateurs d'un effet apaisant potentiel d'une douleur topique.  The active ingredient resulting from a 50/50 Paeonia / Nymphaea mixture thus produced has an inhibitory activity of the NEP and APN enzymes isolated with an IC50 of 36 mg / ml and 129 mg / ml, respectively. These results, in comparison with those of Bestatine and PL804, are indicative of a potential soothing effect of topical pain.
Exemple 3 Example 3
Par les techniques usuelles, on prépare une crème cosmétique ayant la composition indiquée ci-après.  By the usual techniques, a cosmetic cream is prepared having the composition indicated below.
Extrait de graine de lotus (Nymphaea caerulea) 1 ,0 Lotus seed extract (Nymphaea caerulea) 1, 0
Extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa 0,5Paeonia suffruticosa extract 0,5
Glycérine 3,0Glycerin 3.0
EDTA tétrasodique 0,1Tetrasodium EDTA 0,1
Conservateur 1 ,0Conservative 1, 0
Polymère acrylate 2,0Acrylate polymer 2.0
Arachydyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside/behenyl alcohol 3,5Arachydyl alcohol / arachidyl glucoside / behenyl alcohol 3,5
Huiles végétales : huile de rosier muscat / huile de macadamia 4,5Vegetable oils: rosehip oil muscat / macadamia oil 4,5
Dicaprylyl carbonate 6,0Dicaprylyl carbonate 6.0
Glycol palmitate 2,0 Parfum 1 ,0Glycol palmitate 2.0 Perfume 1, 0
Tocophérol 0,7Tocopherol 0.7
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100,0Demineralized water qs 100.0
Cette crème est utilisée une à deux fois par jour par application sur les zones de la peau à traiter. This cream is used once or twice a day by application to the areas of the skin to be treated.
Exemple 4 Example 4
Par les techniques usuelles, on prépare un sérum ayant la composition pondérale indiquée ci-après.  By the usual techniques, a serum is prepared having the weight composition indicated below.
Extrait de graine de lotus (Nymphaea caerulea) 5,0 Lotus seed extract (Nymphaea caerulea) 5.0
Extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa 2,0Paeonia suffruticosa extract 2.0
Glycérine 4,0Glycerin 4.0
EDTA tétrasodique 0, 1Tetrasodium EDTA 0, 1
Sodium polyacrylate 1 ,2Sodium polyacrylate 1, 2
Conservateur 1 ,2Conservative 1, 2
Phenyltrimethicone 3,0Phenyltrimethicone 3.0
Dicaprylyl carbonate 5,0Dicaprylyl carbonate 5.0
Glycol palmitate 2,0Glycol palmitate 2.0
Tocophérol 0,7Tocopherol 0.7
Parfum 0,5Perfume 0.5
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100,0Demineralized water qs 100.0
Ce sérum peut être utilisé une à deux fois par jour sur les zones de la peau à traiter, éventuellement en complément du traitement par une crème. This serum can be used once or twice a day on the areas of the skin to be treated, possibly in addition to treatment with a cream.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 . Composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique pour application topique à action apaisante de l'épiderme, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend une quantité efficace d'un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa en association avec un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea. 1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for topical application with soothing action of the epidermis, characterized in that it comprises an effective amount of an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa in association with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea Savigny.  2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises an extract of Nymphaea caerulea Savigny.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews.  3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews.
4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les extraits sont obtenus à partir des racines et des parties aériennes des plantes.  4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extracts are obtained from the roots and aerial parts of the plants.
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend entre 0,05 et 20% en poids de mélange d'extraits par rapport au poids total de la composition.  5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises between 0.05 and 20% by weight of mixture of extracts relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend de 0,05 à 15,0%, de préférence entre 0,2 et 5%, pour l'extrait de Nymphaea caerulea et de l'ordre de 0,05 à 5%, de préférence de 0, 1 à 3%, pour l'extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa, par rapport au poids total de la composition.  6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.05 to 15.0%, preferably between 0.2 and 5%, for the extract of Nymphaea caerulea and the from 0.05 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 3%, for the Paeonia suffruticosa extract, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend en outre un ou plusieurs actifs secondaires choisis parmi un extrait de graines de mimosa, un extrait de graines de souci, un extrait de Centella asiatica, un extrait de coquelicot, un extrait de guimauve, des polyphénols de cacao, un extrait d'hibiscus (Hibiscus abelmoschus), un extrait d'aneth (Peucedaneum graveolens), du monométhylsilanol, de la proline et du beurre de Karité.  7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises one or more secondary active agents selected from a mimosa seed extract, a marigold extract extract, an extract of Centella asiatica, poppy extract, marshmallow extract, cocoa polyphenols, hibiscus extract (Hibiscus abelmoschus), dill extract (Peucedaneum graveolens), monomethylsilanol, proline and shea butter.
8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est formulée sous forme de lotion, gel, émulsion (en particulier crème ou lait), émulsion biphasique huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile, émulsion triphasique, huile corporelle, shampooing, lotion capillaire, masque, onguent, pommade, bâtons protecteur pour les lèvres, nanocapsules, liposomes ou encore des patches transdermiques, pour application topique. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is formulated in the form of lotion, gel, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), two-phase emulsion oil-in-water or water-in-oil, triphasic emulsion, body oil, shampoo, hair lotion, mask, ointment, ointment, protective sticks for the lips, nanocapsules, liposomes or patches transdermal, for topical application.
9. Procédé cosmétique non thérapeutique pour procurer une action topique apaisante et favoriser le bien-être de la peau, consistant à appliquer sur les zones de la peau concernées une composition contenant une quantité efficace de la composition topique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8.  9. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for providing a soothing topical action and promoting the well-being of the skin, comprising applying to the areas of the skin concerned a composition containing an effective amount of the topical composition according to any one of claims 1 at 8.
10. Composition dermatologique comprenant un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa en association avec un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea pour le traitement et la prévention des sensations de démangeaison et de douleurs topiques.  10. Dermatological composition comprising an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa in combination with an extract of Nymphaea caerulea for the treatment and prevention of itching sensations and topical pain.
1 1 . Utilisation d'un extrait de Paeonia suffruticosa et d'un extrait de Nymphaea caerulea pour la préparation d'une composition topique pour procurer une action apaisante de l'épiderme.  1 1. Use of Paeonia suffruticosa extract and Nymphaea caerulea extract for the preparation of a topical composition to provide a soothing action of the epidermis.
EP13731825.9A 2012-06-27 2013-06-27 Soothing topical composition containing paeonia and nymphaea extracts Withdrawn EP2866900A2 (en)

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FR1256091A FR2992561B1 (en) 2012-06-27 2012-06-27 SOOTHING TOPICAL COMPOSITION BASED ON PAEONIA AND NYMPHAEA EXTRACTS
PCT/EP2013/063543 WO2014001465A2 (en) 2012-06-27 2013-06-27 Soothing topical composition containing paeonia and nymphaea extracts

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AU2002221512A1 (en) 2001-11-29 2003-06-10 Jiangsu Kanion Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd A pharmaceutical composition made from chinese traditional medecine and method of producing thereof
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