FR2885300A1 - Topical cosmetic and/or dermatological composition useful for skin protection comprises an araucaria seed extract - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition for topical application, for skin protection, comprises an araucaria seed extract. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Heat shock protein-70 inhibitor.

Description

The present invention relates to a new cosmetic composition and / or

  for protecting the epidermis, and more particularly a composition combining extracts of cocoa polyphenols, extracts

  Araucaria seeds, and extracts of maca, having excellent properties used in cosmetics and dermatology for the protection of the skin, especially against the signs of skin aging.

  It is known that polyphenols of plant origin, extracted for example from grapes or cocoa, have interesting properties that can be used in cosmetics. For example, patent EP 1,289,491 teaches that polyphenols extracted from cocoa (Theobroma cacao) have an anti-wrinkle activity useful for care against aging of the skin. The cocoa polyphenols are divided into three groups which all belong to the family of flavonoids: catechins (flavanols, 37% env.) And in particular (-) epicatechin, procyanidines (flavanol oligomers, 58%) and anthocyanins (5%). %).

  Araucaria is a tree of the family Araucariaceae with a very variable trunk and often high, up to 25 to 30 m or more for some species, whose branches bear evergreen leaves in the form of sharp scales. This plant family is very old since there are traces of it at the Triassic boundary, that is to say at a period whose age is several million years.

  The main araucaria species are Araucaria araucaria, sometimes referred to as Araucaria imbricata, which is mainly found in Chile, Araucaria angustifolia (or Araucaria brasiliensis) from Brazil and Argentina, Araucaria heterophylla, Araucaria bidwilli, Araucaria cunninghami, Araucaria cooki, Araucaria luxurians, and Araucaria excelsa. Araucarias are generally exploited in the construction and decoration and preference is thus given to using species implanted in temperate and subtropical B1569fr areas to facilitate cultivation and exploitation. Various useful substances have been extracted from certain species of araucarias, and for example JP 7025719 discloses an antimicrobial containing a resin extracted from the trunk of Araucaria angustifolia, while EP 95133 describes polyprenyl derivatives useful in the synthesis of substances. for therapeutic purposes, obtained by extraction of araucariaceae leaves, in particular Araucaria brasiliana. It is also known that araucaria seeds are sometimes consumed in the diet, particularly in parts of South America, in the same way as pine nuts.

  Maca (Lepidium meyenii Walpers or Lepidium peruvianumm Chacon) is a plant of the family Brassicaceae, which is generally found in high elevation areas of South America, particularly in the highlands of the Andes; Lepidium peruvianum grows exclusively in Peru. Maca is particularly suitable for high altitudes, around 3.600 to 4.800 m, and at low temperatures, and has been observed to grow better at lower temperatures. It has, however, been transplanted to more temperate regions and several species have been grown in Eastern European countries (see K. Valentova et al., "Smallanthus Sonchifolius and Lepidium Meyenii" Biomed Papers 147, p. -130 (2003)).

  However, it seems that cold weather conditions are more favorable for its development. It is now commonly grown on small-scale farms, with the seed being grown in the fall and harvested in early summer.

  This plant has an underground root of size generally between 3 and 5 cm, surmounted by a larger hypocotyl and a rosette-shaped aerial part with 10 to 20 leaves that remain in contact with the soil. A single maca plant can produce about 14 g of seeds. The tuber, consisting of the root and base of the hypocotyl, is consumed in the food of the Andean producing regions as a boiled, fried or more often cooked vegetable. Its nutritional value is close to that of the most common cereals of the usual food compositions.

  Maca has long been considered a food with beneficial effects on health, including a stimulating, invigorating and revitalizing effect. It has also been often presented as capable of increasing the intellectual and physical capacities of individuals, of stimulating memory and concentration, of reducing fatigue, of strengthening the immunological system, of regulating the menstrual cycle, of reducing premenstrual syndrome. , and increase spermatogenesis. These properties attributed to maca explain that it is sometimes called, incorrectly, Peruvian ginseng.

  The chemical analysis of maca has been made in particular by A. Dini et al., "Chemical Composition of Lepidium Meyenii" Food Chem., 49, 347-349 (1994) and by M. Comas et al., "Estudio Bromatologico from Maca o Paca (Lepidium Meyenii) "Alimentaria, Madrid, pp. 85-90 (Oct. 1997).

  The raw maca is generally used in powder form, presented commercially in capsules whose suggested consumption is of the order of 4 g per day, or about 65 mg per kg of body weight for an adult individual.

  Maca powder is practically insoluble in water, which explains why it has been used very little in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Pharmaceutical compositions containing polysaccharides and amino acids derived from Lepidium meyenii are described in patent application WO 00.51548. A water-soluble peptide extract of maca, obtained from crushed tubers, which can be used in cosmetic compositions for combating aging of the skin, is described in patent FR 2 856 298.

  The skin is a real organ comprising several integrated layers, ranging from the superficial layer, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment.

  The epidermis, composed mainly of keratinocytes (90% of epidermal cells), melanocytes (2 to 3% of epidermal cells) and Langerhans cells, has a variable thickness depending on the different parts of the body. Since it constitutes the outer layer of the skin, the epidermis plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. This is why many compositions have been developed to protect and improve its functions, including strengthening its elasticity and firmness.

  The dermis, thicker, solid, rich in nerves, blood vessels and sweat glands, consists mainly of collagen, elastin and proteoglycans.

  These three types of molecules are synthesized by dermal fibroblasts. Collagen fibers, which account for 70% of the dry weight of the dermis, provide the mechanical strength and texture of the skin, elastin is responsible for elasticity, and proteoglycans play a major role in the structure and hydration of the skin. the skin. Other cells such as macrophages and leucocytes are also present in the dermis layer.

  The hypodermis, which is the deepest layer of skin, contains lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a fat layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.

  The aging of the skin can be intrinsic, or extrinsic, that is to say caused by the environment, including climatic aggressions, which can notably contribute to accelerate the degradation of collagen of the dermis, and in particular exposure to the sun, temperature variations and free radicals. The first signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, are usually caused by stress and biological and physiological changes, accelerated by the external environment. The appearance of pigment marks, the decrease in the thickness of the skin and its collapse are also changes observed during aging. In fact, the ability of the skin to replace damaged collagen decreases over time, and spaces and irregularities appear in the collagen network. At the skin level, aging causes in particular a decrease in protein synthesis (collagen, elastin), a decrease in the synthesis of proteoglycans among others, as well as an increase in MMP3 type metalloproteinases.

  To combat the aging of the skin, it has been proposed various treatments based on compositions such as creams and lotions containing alpha-hydroxy acids or retinoids, applied regularly to reduce progressively the number of wrinkles and fine lines. Collagen implants have also been proposed to conceal expression lines around the eyes or mouth, dermabrasion and chemical peels to remove the top layer of damaged skin, cosmetic surgery, such as blepharoplasty ( eyelid surgery) or a facelift to rejuvenate sagging skin, or restructure using a carbon dioxide laser to remove fine lines.

  Although many dermatological and cosmetic compositions have been proposed, there is still a need to be able to have new alternative topical compositions that make it possible to effectively combat the effects of skin aging, and in particular topical compositions based on appropriate plant extracts coming from more particularly of plants, capable of providing a moisturizing activity of the skin, of reducing wrinkles, of diminishing pigment spots, of improving skin regeneration and of inducing an increase in the thickness of the epidermis, without having any effect toxic.

  The studies carried out by the Applicant have shown that it is possible to protect the epidermis and to act effectively against the signs related to skin aging, by using topical compositions combining polyphenols extracted from cocoa, extracts of maca and extracts. araucaria. Studies have shown that skin anti-aging effects of cocoa polyphenols are potentiated by the addition of plant extracts from maca and araucaria.

  The subject of the present invention is therefore a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition combining polyphenols extracted from cocoa, extracts of maca, and extracts of araucaria seeds.

  The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of polyphenols extracted from cocoa, extracts of maca, and extracts of araucaria seeds for the preparation of a topical composition intended to combat the signs of skin aging.

  The present invention further relates to a cosmetic method for combating the effects of skin aging, comprising applying to the areas of the skin concerned a topical composition containing an effective amount of the combination according to the present invention.

  The invention also relates to the use of a combination of polyphenols extracted from cocoa, extracts of maca, and extracts of araucaria seeds for the preparation of a dermatological drug for the protection of the cob -derme against the signs of skin aging.

  The compositions according to the present invention are distinguished in that they comprise a combination of polyphenols extracted from cocoa, extracts of maca, and extracts of araucaria seeds in an amount effective to provide the epidermis against signs of aging, as well as acceptable carriers and excipients in dermatology and cosmetology.

  Thus, the topical compositions of the invention can be advantageously used in dermatology and cosmetology for the treatment or prevention of signs of skin aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, etc. The polyphenolic extract used in the above combination is preferably an extract obtained by grinding cocoa beans and hydrophilic / lipophilic separation of cocoa butter on the one hand and a mixture of proteins and polyphenols on the other go. The hydrophilic / lipophilic separation makes it possible, by extraction of the crushed seed, to separate the supernatant fatty substances from the polyphenol / protein phase with water. Water which is brought to a temperature of between approximately 80 and 100 ° C. is preferably used.

  Instead of using cocoa polyphenol extracts, it is also possible to use cocoa cells obtained by known techniques for the growth or cell multiplication, in liquid or solid medium, of cells of plant origin cultivated in vitro in a controlled environment. under aseptic conditions in the absence of microorganisms. Thus, reference may be made to the work done on cell cocoa suspensions such as those of Gurney and Evans, Exp. Bot. 43, 769775, (1992), Wen and Kinsella, J. Food Sc. 57, 1452-1457 (1992) and Leathers and Scragg, Plant Sc. 62, 217-228 (1989). It is more particularly possible to use lyophilized dedifferentiated cacao cells whose contents of the three main components are respectively 1.2 mg of anthocyanins, 136.0 mg of procyanidolic oligomers (OPC) and 11.2 mg of epicatechin, by gram of lyophilized cells.

  The maca extracts used in the compositions according to the present invention are preferably in the form of hydroglycolic extracts, for example in butylene glycol, of the reduced powdered root.

  According to an advantageous embodiment, the extract that can be used in the combination of the invention is obtained from powdered maca roots, which are macerated in a mixture of glycol and water, for example a 50/50 mixture of glycol and water, followed by decantation, clarification and filtration. Clarification is usually by centrifugation or addition of a microparticle-absorbing substance, such as cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or absorbing soil. The glycol may be chosen from butylene glycol-1,3, butylene glycol-1,4, and dipropylene glycol, and butylene glycol is preferably used.

  The araucaria seeds used in the combination according to the invention are advantageously chosen from the seeds of Araucaria araucana (Araucaria imbricata), Araucaria angustifolia, Araucaria heterophylla, Araucaria bidwilli, Araucaria cunninghami, Araucaria cooki, Araucaria luxurians, and Araucaria excelsa. Araucaria araucana and Araucaria cunninghami are preferably used.

  The tests carried out by the applicant have shown that, among the various parts of the plant, it is preferable to use the seeds, which are readily available and whose preservation does not generally raise any technical difficulty.

  The Araucaria seed extracts used in the compositions according to the present invention are preferably in the form of a hydroglycolic extract of the pulverized seed, for example in butylene glycol-1,3, butylene glycol-1,4, pentyl glycol, capryl glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, and glycerin.

  According to an advantageous embodiment, the extract which can be used in the invention is obtained by maceration from reduced powdered Araucaria seeds.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the araucaria seeds are crushed and macerated in water, and after expression and filtration the extract is stabilized with the glycol. According to one variant, the seeds reduced to powder are macerated and the macerate is depleted with a water / glycol mixture (50/50), and the product is then decanted, expressed, clarified and filtered.

  Typically, the extracts detailed hereinafter may be used for the preparation of the combination according to the present invention.

  Cocoa polyphenol extract The extract is obtained by carrying out an extraction of a known type, for example by grinding cocoa beans, preferably from cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao), and hydrophilic / lipophilic separation of the cocoa beans. cocoa on the one hand and a mixture of proteins and polyphenols on the other. The hydrophilic / lipophilic separation makes it possible, by extraction of the crushed seed, to separate the supernatant fatty substances from the polyphenol / protein phase with water.

  The proteins are separated for example by tangential ultrafiltration (proteins> 10,000 Da) while the polyphenols are dried and then encapsulated if necessary. The fraction enriched in unsaponifiables is obtained from cocoa butter by molecular distillation at 200300 C under vacuum (about 10-4 to 10-2 mmHg / 0.13 to 13 Pa).

  The polyphenolic extract thus obtained is in the form of a dark colored liquid soluble in water and alcohols. It is preferably used in encapsulated form providing better protection against oxidation.

  Maca extract The glycolic acid extract of maca used in the present invention is in the form of an amber-yellow liquid with a characteristic odor, soluble in water and in alcohol, characterized by: - extract butylene glycol / water (50/50) - solids content 4.0% a - flavonoid content 0.04% - density at 22 C 1, 038 refractive index at 22 C 1.398 - pH 5.77 The extracts of maca used in the combination of the invention contain isoflavones which have been assayed by reverse phase HPLC. In particular, isoflavones consisting of daidzin, genistin, daidzein and genistein have been identified. As indicated above, the content of isoflavones relative to the dry matter is 0.04% for a mean solids content of 5.33% and a total dose of isoflavones of 23.42 mg / l. The isoflavones identified in the extract are substances known to have a biological effect close to that of DHEA, which may constitute an advantageous additional effect in the context of the invention.

  Araucaria extract The extract (Araucaria araucana) in a butylene glycol-water mixture (50/50) is in the form of a color liquid between yellow and amber, of characteristic odor, soluble in water, characterized by: - dry matter 0.64% - density at 22 C 1.014 refractive index at 22 C 1.391 - pH 6.17 The composition according to the invention generally comprises between 0.1 and 2% by weight of polyphenol extract cocoa, between 1 and 10% by weight of maca extract and between 1 and 10% by weight of araucaria seed extract relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred form, these concentrations are respectively from 0.2 to 1% by weight of polyphenol extract of cocoa, 2 to 5% by weight of maca extract and 3 to 6% by weight of seed extract. araucaria relative to the total weight of the composition. In the case of using cocoa cells instead of cocoa polyphenol extract, the concentration of cocoa cells is generally between 0.01 and 0.2% and preferably between 0.02 and 0.1%. .

  The combination of polyphenols extracted from cocoa, ex-traits of maca, and extracts of araucaria seeds according to the present invention, used under normal conditions of use for 20 to 30 consecutive days, has demonstrated excellent skin tolerance and was non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic.

  In addition, tests carried out using compositions in the form of creams or serums and comprising the combination of the invention have demonstrated a significant increase in the level of hydration of the skin.

  The tests carried out on reconstituted epidermis, treated for 48 hours, have also shown, as indicated below: E an absence of cytotoxicity, the histological images, after HES staining, of the epidermis treated by the combination of the invention being similar to those of the control epidermis.

  an increase in the proliferation of cells of the basal layer, reflecting a stimulation of epidermal regeneration.

  a decrease in epidermal differentiation. an increase in the thickness of the epidermis.

  The results are explained in the examples below.

  They demonstrate that the combination according to the invention provides potential anti-aging effects of the epidermis compared to those provided by a polyphenol extract alone.

  The acceptability tests of the compositions according to the invention by a group of 100 women who had applied them for a period of two months showed a very favorable assessment for the formulations tested, namely a day cream, a night cream and a serum, as described in the examples below. These results relate not only to the ease of use that the effectiveness of the composition for the reduction of wrinkles and the reduction of pigment spots.

  The combination of polyphenols extracted from cocoa, extracts of maca, and extracts of araucaria seeds according to the present invention can be used alone or in combination with other compatible complementary active ingredients, that is to say not likely to react to one another or to mask or limit their respective effects.

  According to an advantageous embodiment, the combination is completed by active ingredients or auxiliary ingredients chosen for their complementary properties, in order to reinforce the protective effect against the effects of skin aging.

  As a complementary active agent, it is possible, for example, to use a product exerting a relaxing effect on the skin, such as, for example, a blue lotus extract, a poppy or marshmallow extract or Hibiscus esculentus extracts commercially available under the trade mark Myoxinol. The anti-aging effect of the combination of the invention may also be advantageously supplemented by products promoting cutaneous microcirculation such as flavonoids and larch extracts such as Cryocytol. Penetration and drainage factors such as dextran sulphate, extracts of Jericho roses to protect against dehydration, hyaluronic acid or its sodium salt, peptides stimulating ATP can also be advantageously incorporated into the composition. or a substance with an anti-hyaluronidase effect such as echinacin B. The compositions according to the present invention may be in any of the usual dosage forms suitable for topical application, and preferably in the form of a lotion, cream, milk or serum. .

  The choice of the concentration of each of the components in the composition can be made according to the intended use. For prolonged treatment, lower doses, in the form of milk or cream dosed at about 3 to 6% (total of the three components), are preferably used, while spot treatment may require higher doses, for example a serum dosed between 6 and 10%, where, preferably, the doses of extracts of maca and araucaria are higher.

  The compositions in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of a lotion, gel, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), mask, ointment, nanocapsules, liposomes or patches transdermal, containing excipients and common supports compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable. They can also be in the form of wipes soaked with a solution containing the polyphenolic extracts of cocoa, maca and araucaria seeds. These forms of topical administration are prepared by the usual techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion. In the case of creams, it is preferred to use lamellar structure emulsions containing little or no ethoxylated products.

  In the case of nanocapsules and liposomes, it may be advantageous to use an aqueous extract, preferably a hydroglycolic extract of maca and araucaria.

  The topical compositions according to the invention may for example comprise excipients suitable for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable excipients. These excipients suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art and include in particular penetrating agents such as ethoxydiglycol, phytantriol, octyl dodecanol and escin; thickeners such as natural gums and synthetic polymers; emollients and surfactants such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, cetyl phosphate; emulsifiers; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), ethyl parahydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben), propyl paraben (propylparaben) and Phenonip associating phenoxyethanol and methyl, ethyl, butyl and isobutyl parahydroxybenzoates ; dyes; the perfumes; etc. Other ingredients may be used in the compositions: moisturizing agents such as propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol and also antioxidant vitamins such as vitamin E, for example tocopherol acetate or tocotrienol, vitamin C, natural polyphenols. It is also possible to add skin conditioning agents such as nylon and boron nitride to the composition, as well as agents for protecting against ultraviolet rays, and for example hydrophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens. or lipophilic, chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Eusolex 4360), or a cinnamic acid ester and more particularly octyl methoxycinnamate (Eusolex 2292), 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX), or cyano-α, R-diphenylacrylate such as octocrylene (Eusolex OCR), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300), and derivatives of dibenzoylmethane such as 4 isopropyl dibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 8020), t-butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), and 4-methoxydibenzoylmethane. It is also possible to use anti-ultraviolet screen pigments such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or aluminum oxide.

  The following examples illustrate the invention in more detail without limiting its scope. In all of the following examples of compositions, parts are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1

  According to the conventional techniques, a care cream (cream of the formula) having the following weight composition is prepared.

  Demineralised water qs 100.00 Butylene Glycol-1,3 5,40 Glycerin 4,60 Diloisopropyl Dilinoleate Dimer 4,00 Octyl Dodecanol 3,00 Hydrogenated coconut oil 2,60 Palmitate of glycol 2,40 Alkyl phosphate C20C22 2.50 Alcohols C20-C22 2.00 Polymethyl methacrylate 1.50 Phenyl trimethicone 1.70 Dimethicone 0.90 Polyacrylamide 0.35 Tocopherol 0.50 Tromethamine 0.25 Tristearin 0.25 Chlorphenesin 0.10 Dextran sulphate 0 Cocoa cells 0.05 Lepidium meyenii extract (root) 3.00 Araucaria araucana seeds extract 4.00 Preservatives 0.60 The cream having the composition indicated above is used in application to the face, once a day at bedtime for a period of 1 to 3 months.

Example 2

  According to a conventional technique, an anti-aging cream (day cream) having the following weight composition is prepared.

  Demineralized water qs 100.00 Diloisopropyl diisopropyl dilinoleate 6.00 Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 6.00 Butylene glycol-1,3 5.00 Glycerin 4.00 Isodecyl neopentanoate 4.00 Ethylhexyl salicylate 3.00 Hydrogenated coconut oil 3.00 C20-C22 alkyl phosphate 2.60 C20-C22 alcohols 2.00 Butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane 2.50 Glycol palmitate 1.50 Xylitol 0.60 Polymethyl methacrylate 0.50 Phenyl trimethicone 1.50 Polyacrylamide 0.30 Tocopherol 0.50 Tromethamine 0.30 Tristearin 0.25 Chlorphenesin 0.10 Sodium hyaluronate 0.05 Cocoa cells 0.05 Lepidium meyenii extract (root) 4.00 Araucaria araucana seeds extract 4 , 00 Preservatives 0.60 Perfume 0.50 The cream having the composition indicated above is used in application on the face, once or twice a day for a period of 1 to 3 months.

Example 3

  According to conventional techniques, a serum having the following weight composition is prepared.

  Demineralised water qs 100.00 Butylene glycol-1,3 7.50 Diethylhexyl succinate 6.00 Glycerin 4.70 Octyl dodecanol 3.00 Xylitol 0.60 Tocopherol 0.50 Sodium polyacrylate 1.20 Phenyl trimethicone 1.50 Chlorphenesin 0.10 Xanthan gum 0.01 Ceramide 3 0.03 Ceramide 6 0.02 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Phenol phenol extract 0.50 Lepidium meyenii extract (root) 5.00 Araucaria araucana seeds extract 5.00 Preservatives 0.70 Perfume 0.60

Example 4

  Studies and clinical trials The study of the effects of the combination according to the present invention on the protection of the epidermis vis-à-vis the signs of skin aging, by hydration and epidermal regeneration, was made on an in vitro model of reconstituted epidermis (Skinethic).

  Experimental protocol The study was performed on reconstituted epidermis (Skinethic). Each test was performed in triplicate.

  Keratinocytes of human origin are seeded on polycarbonate filters of 0.63 cm 2 in a defined medium (modified MCDB 153) and supplemented. The cells are cultured for 14 days at the air-liquid interface, the culture medium being changed every two days.

  The epidermis thus formed were used for the realization of the study from the 14th day of culture.

  Preliminary test The test, intended to determine the product / epidermis contact time, was conducted in duplicate after 48 hours of treatment (contact of the combination of polyphenol extract of cocoa, extracts of maca and extracts of araucaria, with the skins).

Two lots were formed.

  Batch 1: 3 control epidermids not receiving any products Batch 2: Epidermis treated with the combination of the invention.

  The epidermis fixed in a 10% formaldehyde solution are included in paraffin blocks. Vertical sections of 4 microns are stained with hematoxylin / eosin (HES) and photographed under a microscope.

  Histo-pathological interpretation is as follows. The cultures must have intact, orthokeratotic basal, spinous, granular and corneal cell layers, and the epidermal stratification must be regular and normal. The cells of the basal layer must be vertically polarized. Many kerato-hyaline grains must be visible (purple in color) in the granular layer just below the stratum corneum.

  Evaluation of the Cell Viability It was found that the composition of the invention, deposited at a rate of 2 μl / cm 2 on reconstituted epidermis treated for 48 hours, induces no toxicity compared to the control batch. After HES staining, the histological images of the epidermis lines are similar to those of the control epidermis.

  Treated epidermis has intact basal, spinous, granular and corneal cell layers. Epidermal stratification is regular and normal. The cells of the basal layer are vertically polarized. Finally, many grains of keratohyalin are visible in the granular layer just below the stratum corneum.

  A clinical study on 20 female volunteers confirmed the very good cutaneous tolerance of the composition. The study was performed by administering the composition as serum on the legs of the patients for 28 consecutive days.

  Evaluation of the mitotic index The mitotic index was evaluated after immunohistochemical treatment of reconstituted epidermis.

  The number of cells labeled after counting the brown colored nuclear sites of all the samples showing a mitotic index is shown in the table below.

  Number of labeled cells 0 Control 17, 20, 8 - Composition of the invention 22.0 1.0 +27 Evaluation of the labeling of filaggrin The labeling of filaggrin after immunohistochemical treatment of reconstituted epidermides was evaluated.

  The comparative observation of reconstituted epidermis (control epidermis and epidermis treated with the composition of the invention) has shown that, under physiological conditions, the control epidermides exhibit an intense and uniform marking of filaggrin at the level of the granular layer. , while the treated epidermis show a less intense but uniform marking of filaggrin.

  Evaluation of the density of the reconstituted epidermis The average thickness of the reconstituted epidermis (control epidermis and epidermis treated with the composition of the invention) is reported in the table below.

  Mean thickness% (pm) Control 132 6 - Invention (serum) 147 5 +11 Invention (day cream) 150 5 +13 Invention (night cream) 156 5 + 18 It is thus seen that the composition of the invention induces a stimulation of the reconstituted epidermis resulting in a significant increase in its thickness, mainly due to the regulation of cell proliferation and differentiation processes, without any toxicity towards the epidermis.

  Moisturizing effect The three compositions of the invention described in the examples (day cream, night cream and serum) were tested on volunteers in order to verify the variation of the cutaneous hydration rate after a single standardized application of the composition, in comparison with an untreated area.

  The tests showed a significant increase in the level of hydration 1 hour after application, which is still sensitive after 8 hours as shown in the table below.

  variation% t + 1 hour t + 8 hours serum +48 7 +28 5 day cream + 40 9 +21 5 night cream +40 7 +23 2 The study was done on 10 volunteers aged between 23 and 64 years, in a single standardized application (2 pl / cm2), the composition being applied on the legs.

Claims (11)

  1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for topical application, intended to ensure the protection of the epidermis, characterized in that it comprises an effective amount of a combination of polyphenols extracted from cocoa, extracts of maca, and extracts of araucaria seeds.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the araucaria seed extract is obtained from seeds of Araucaria araucana (Araucaria imbricata), Araucaria angustifolia, Araucaria heterophylla, Araucaria bidwilli, Araucaria cunninghami, Araucaria cooki, Araucaria luxurians , and Araucaria excelsa.   3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the extract is obtained by maceration from araucaria seeds (Araucaria araucana or Araucaria cunninhami) reduced to powder.   4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the maca extract is obtained by hydroglycolic extraction from powdered maca roots.   5. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol extract is obtained by grinding cocoa beans and hydrophilic / lipophilic separation with water.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises between 0.1 and 2% by weight of cocoa polyphenol extract, between 1 and 10% by weight of maca extract and between 1 and 10% by weight of cocoa extract. and 10% by weight of araucaria seed extract relative to the total weight of the composition.   7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it comprises between 0.2 to 1% by weight of cocoa polyphenol extract, 2 to 5% by weight of maca extract and 3 to 6% by weight. of araucaria seed extract with respect to the total weight of the composition.   8. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises cocoa cells in a concentration of between 0.01 and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   9. Use of a combination of polyphenols extracted from cocoa, extracts of maca, and extracts of araucaria seeds for the preparation of a topical composition for combating the signs of skin aging.   10. A cosmetic method for combating the effects of skin aging, comprising applying to the areas of the skin concerned a composition containing an effective amount of the topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.   11. Use of a combination of polyphenols extracted from cocoa, extracts of maca, and extracts of araucaria seeds for the preparation of a dermatological drug for the protection of the epidermis against the signs of skin aging.