EP1289491A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition based on cocoa extracts - Google Patents

Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition based on cocoa extracts

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Publication number
EP1289491A1
EP1289491A1 EP01947503A EP01947503A EP1289491A1 EP 1289491 A1 EP1289491 A1 EP 1289491A1 EP 01947503 A EP01947503 A EP 01947503A EP 01947503 A EP01947503 A EP 01947503A EP 1289491 A1 EP1289491 A1 EP 1289491A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cocoa
cosmetic
polyphenols
composition
skin
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01947503A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jacques Leclere
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Laboratoire Nuxe SA
Original Assignee
Laboratoire Nuxe SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Laboratoire Nuxe SA filed Critical Laboratoire Nuxe SA
Publication of EP1289491A1 publication Critical patent/EP1289491A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, and more particularly a composition based on cocoa extracts (Theobroma cacao) having excellent properties usable in cosmetics and in dermatology for the care and protection of the skin.
  • the skin comprises superficial layers, namely the epidemic, and deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment.
  • the epidermis which constitutes the outer layer, plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. This is why many compositions have been developed in order to protect it and improve its functions.
  • These cosmetic and dermatological compositions intended for the treatment of skin conditions by topical application must comply with certain conditions in order to be well accepted by the users. More particularly, they must have good physical properties, in particular consistency and smoothness, have satisfactory effectiveness, and be pleasant to use. In addition, they must be able to be stored under normal conditions of temperature and humidity without significantly degrading and retaining their properties for extended periods.
  • compositions In addition to these physical properties, the compositions must have a set of activities which can be used cosmetically and pharmaceutically. In particular, compositions are generally sought which combine properties of hydration and protection of the skin against attack. of the environment where aging takes place manifested by the formation of wrinkles and spots, greater dryness and loss of elasticity of the skin
  • Free radicals are known for their accelerating effect on cell aging. Their formation is often favored by external factors such as ultraviolet rays, pollution and the action of certain drugs. Protection systems of the body against free radicals tend to lose their effectiveness with age and it is therefore desirable to be able to have substances capable of neutralizing the harmful effects of free radicals.
  • Various polyphenols are often used for this purpose.
  • FR-A- 2749303 discloses a method of catechin polyphenols extraction from plants by means of an organic solvent and their use in cosmetic compositions having properties antiradic 'alar useful against aging the skin.
  • Cocoa is known to have stimulating, tonic, nutritious and anti-stress effects, and various substances have been extracted from cocoa due to such properties.
  • cocoa butter is used in many food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions.
  • the cocoa tree (Theobroma cacao) is a shrub native to the forests of Central America and the equatorial forests of South America.
  • Various substances have been extracted from beans or cockles.
  • a process for treating cocoa beans to obtain food and diet products containing polyphenols is described in US-A-6,015,913.
  • Patent JP-A-00.128801 describes an antibacterial composition comprising an extract of mint and an extract of tea leaves or cocoa beans containing polyphenols, which can be used in food products and beverages.
  • Patent FR-A-2,413,042 describes a process for extracting cocoa shells using an acidic solution of an alcohol, and the use of the product as well obtained in food compositions. On the other hand, it has not yet been envisaged to use a total cocoa extract in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
  • the present invention. ' relates to a new composition which can be used in cosmetics and / or in dermatology, obtained by cocoa extraction, and containing polyphenols.
  • a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition based on cocoa protein extract.
  • Theobroma cocoa comprising at least polyphenols, amino acids and an unsaponifiable fraction.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a composition as indicated above for the treatment and prevention of the signs of skin aging such as the appearance of wrinkles and the loss of elasticity of the skin.
  • the present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin consisting in applying to the skin a composition as indicated above.
  • the composition according to the present invention essentially comprises a cocoa extract containing polyphenols. More particularly, the composition of the invention comprises a cocoa extract containing in combination polyphenols, and amino acids and / or a concentrate of unsaponifiables.
  • the composition contains in combination - from 0.05 to 5% by weight of amino acids extracted from cocoa; from 0.05 to 5% by weight of polyphenols extracted from cocoa; from 0.05 to 3% by weight of concentrate of unsaponifiables.
  • the extraction method used in the invention consists in carrying out an extraction of a known type, for example by grinding cocoa beans and hydrophilic / lipophilic separation of cocoa butter on the one hand and a mixture of proteins and polyphenols on the other hand.
  • the hydrophilic / lipophilic separation makes it possible, by extraction of the ground seed, to separate the supernatants of the poly- ' phase with water .
  • phenols / proteins preferably brought to a temperature of between 80 and 100 ° C. is preferably used.
  • Proteins are separated for example by tangential ultrafiltration (proteins> 10,000 Da) while the polyphenols are dried and then encapsulated if necessary.
  • the fraction enriched in unsaponifiables is obtained from cocoa butter by molecular distillation at 200-300 ° C under vacuum (about 10 ⁇ 4 to 10 ⁇ 2 mm Hg / 0.13 to 13 Pa).
  • the polyphenolic extract thus obtained is in the form of a dark colored liquid soluble in water and alcohols.
  • the extraction is preferably carried out from cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao). It is thus possible to obtain extracts with a high protein content (greater than 5%) having excellent properties.
  • the aminogram of the protein extract highlighted the following main amino acids. In the following table, the amino acid contents are indicated in grams per 100 g of extract. Wisteria 26.3
  • the analysis also shows the presence, in a content of less than 1% by weight, of proline, cystine, methionine and histidine.
  • the polyphenolic cocoa extract used in the present invention is in the form of an amber colored liquid, soluble in water and in alcohols, having excellent anti-free radical properties giving the compositions according to the invention good efficacy in prevention of skin aging and reduction of wrinkles.
  • the polyphenols extracted from cocoa used in the invention are preferably encapsulated, for example in the form of lecithin-based liposomes, the average size of which is preferably close to 100 ⁇ m, in order to protect them and avoid their polymerization.
  • the extract according to the invention also contains a concentrate of unsaponifiables which can be separated from the total extract by extraction with carbon dioxide, or, preferably, by molecular distillation.
  • This concentrate of unsaponifiables contains hydrocarbons, tocopherol, terpene alcohols and sterols, and it has fibroblast-stimulating properties which are particularly advantageous for the dermatological compositions of the invention.
  • the composition according to the present invention may advantageously contain a hydrogenated lecithin.
  • the hydrogenated lecithin used in the invention is preferably a hydrogenated soy lecithin or a hydrogenated sunflower lecithin.
  • Commercially available lecithins generally contain pure lecithin (phosphatidyl choline) in admixture with other phosphoglycerides such as cephalin (in particular phosphatidyl ethanolamine) and phosphatidyl inositol.
  • cephalin in particular phosphatidyl ethanolamine
  • phosphatidyl inositol phosphatidyl inositol.
  • An example of hydrogenated lecithin which can be used in the invention is that sold commercially. under the brand Emulmetik 320® by the company Lucas Mayer (hydrogenated soy lecithin).
  • compositions may also advantageously contain cocoa oil and cocoa butter.
  • topical administration means any method consisting in applying the substance or composition directly to the skin.
  • the composition can be administered topically and it can advantageously contain, in addition to the basic components described above, one or more other substances known to exert complementary beneficial effects for the skin, and more particularly tocopherol. , vitamin A (retinol), retinoic acid, bactericidal agents, etc.
  • the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions in accordance with the present invention are intended for topical administration, and contain carriers and excipients commonly used in compositions of this type, such as O / W or W / O emulsions, creams, gels. or lotions.
  • the fatty phase can represent between 10 and 60% approximately of the weight of the composition, the aqueous phase between 10 and 80% approximately and the emulsifying agent between 2 and 20%, the rest being constituted by the components basic components listed above and the other components listed below.
  • the composition may also contain various substances and excipients chosen as a function of their known properties and of the dosage form envisaged.
  • preservatives, emulsifiers, viscosifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, antioxidants, hydrating agents, surfactants, perfumes, oils, lipids, a specific solvent can also be incorporated into the composition. as water and various additives intended to ' improve' the physical properties of the composition.
  • filters or sunscreens chosen according to the degree of protection sought.
  • the viscosifying agents used in the compositions of the invention may be selected from various acrylic acid polymers, cellulose gum, silica, carboxyvinyl polymers, e.g. Carbomer ®, aluminum and magnesium silicate, and colloidal silica for example can be used sold under the trademark Aerosil 200 ® or a crosslinked polyacrylic acid such as Carbopol 940 ®.
  • the gelling agents or thickeners can be chosen, for example, from polyacrylamides, acrylates such as Pemulen®, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, or natural gums.
  • the hydrating agents used in the compositions of the invention may be chosen, for example, from a polyol, sorbitol, maltitol, pentaerythritol, glyceryl polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, glycerol or glycerol derivatives. It is also possible to add emollients such as an alkyl malate, isohexadecane, triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, etc.
  • preservatives of the technique of dermatological or cosmetic compositions can be used in the invention, and for example benzoic acid and an alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as- methyl and propyl p-hydroxy benzoates (methylparaben and Propylparaben), or imidazolidinyl urea.
  • the constituents of the fatty phase can be chosen from jojoba oil, corn oil, petroleum jelly oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, safflower oil, glycerides of saturated fatty acids, stearic acid, palmitic acid, octyl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, octyl palmitate, a triglyceride of capric and caprylic acids, 2 -octyl- dodecanol, lanolin alcohol, polyethylene glycol, 2-ethylhexyl adipate, or alternatively silicone oils such as methyl phenyl polysiloxane, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol, • phenyl trimethicone.
  • the composition can also contain, in addition to water (preferably demineralized water), a specific solvent, such as an alcohol such as ethyl alcohol, or a diethylene glycol ether such as ethoxydiglycol or 1 ' diethylene glycol monomethyl ether (Transcutol ® ).
  • a specific solvent such as an alcohol such as ethyl alcohol, or a diethylene glycol ether such as ethoxydiglycol or 1 ' diethylene glycol monomethyl ether (Transcutol ® ).
  • Hydrophilic or lipophilic ultraviolet filters and sunscreens can advantageously be incorporated into the composition of the invention, and for example one can incorporate titanium or zinc oxides, or even natural sunscreens such as a Pongamia extract.
  • the pH of the composition is preferably between 5.5 and 7.5, and can be adjusted, depending on the compositions, by adding an acid such as citric acid or a base such as hydroxide. sodium.
  • the solvent is chosen according to the components used and the form of administration . considered. It may - be constituted by water, and preferably " demineralized water”. ra 'Lrise and a specific solvent such as glycol pxopylène, an alcohol, especially ethanol, or an ether of diethylene glycol.
  • compositions may also be advantageous to incorporate into the composition an additional active agent intended to improve the behavior of the skin, such as tocopherol, vitamin A (retinol), retinoic acid, bactericidal agents, etc.
  • an additional active agent intended to improve the behavior of the skin, such as tocopherol, vitamin A (retinol), retinoic acid, bactericidal agents, etc.
  • capsules or liposomes in order to limit the amounts of emulsifier or solubilizer.
  • the encapsulated forms also have the advantage of a controlled release of the active agent over time and therefore a more continuous action. Depending on the size of the capsules, one can also obtain visual and colored effects.
  • the capsules used in the invention may contain an envelope of hydroxyethyl cellulose and contain Macadamia oil in combination with the unsaponifiables or the liposoluble body (approx. 20%).
  • the rate of encapsulation is generally around 10% (ie 0.2% of unsaponifiables).
  • composition in accordance with the present invention can be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), mask, stick or ointment, containing usual and compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable excipients and carriers.
  • These forms of topical administration are prepared by known techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or vice versa to prepare a water in oil emulsion.
  • creams it is preferred to use emulsions with a lamellar structure containing few or no ethoxylated products.
  • compositions can be prepared in accordance with the invention in the form of regenerating or protective creams, regenerating masks, after-sun repairing creams, firming milks, sun products or shampoos.
  • an anti-aging cream having the following weight composition is prepared.
  • Example 2 An anti-aging serum having the following composition is prepared.
  • Nipastat 0, .3 , 0 Tween 20 0.40
  • Cocoa amino acids 2.00 Cocoa unsaponifiables capsules
  • the mask composition indicated above is prepared by conventional techniques. According to a preferred technique, the fatty substance is melted at a temperature of around 70 ° C. The water and glycols are heated to about 80 ° C, the preservatives are dissolved and cooled to 70 ° C. An emulsion is then formed by mixing the two phases. The mixture is left to cool and the polymer is added at 50 ° C., then mixed for approximately 10 minutes and the Baobab derivative, the cocoa amino acids and the unsaponifiable capsules are added successively at 40 ° C.
  • the perfumes are added to the composition at a temperature of approximately 35 ° C.

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Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition. Said cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprises essentially a cocoa extract containing polyphenols, and more particularly a cocoa extract containing in combination polyphenols, amino acids and a concentrate of unsaponifiable matters. The invention is applicable to compositions for topical use for skin care and prevention of skin ageing symptoms

Description

COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE ET/OU DERMATOLOGIQUE - A BASE D'EXTRAITS DE CACAO. COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION - BASED ON COCOA EXTRACTS.
La présente invention concerne une nouvelle composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique, et plus particulièrement une composition à base d'extraits de cacao (Theobroma cacao) présentant d'excellentes propriétés utilisables en cosmétique et en dermatologie pour les soins et la protection de la peau. La peau comprend des couches superficielles, à savoir 1 ' épidémie, et des couches plus profondes, le derme et l'hypoderme, et chacune possède des propriétés spécifiques permettant à l'ensemble de réagir et s'adapter aux conditions de son environnement. L'épiderme, qui constitue la couche externe, joue un rôle fondamental pour assurer la protection et le maintien d'une bonne trophicité. C'est pourquoi de nombreuses compositions ont été mises au point afin de le protéger et d'améliorer ses fonctions. Ces compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques destinées au traitement des affections de la peau par application topique doivent respecter certaines conditions pour être bien acceptées par les utilisateurs. Plus particulièrement, elles doivent posséder de bonnes propriétés physiques, notamment de consistance et d'onctuosité, présenter une efficacité satisfaisante, et être agréables à utiliser. De plus, elles doivent pouvoir être conservées dans des conditions normales de température et d'hygrométrie sans se dégrader sensiblement et en conservant leurs propriétés pendant des périodes prolon- gées .The present invention relates to a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, and more particularly a composition based on cocoa extracts (Theobroma cacao) having excellent properties usable in cosmetics and in dermatology for the care and protection of the skin. The skin comprises superficial layers, namely the epidemic, and deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment. The epidermis, which constitutes the outer layer, plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. This is why many compositions have been developed in order to protect it and improve its functions. These cosmetic and dermatological compositions intended for the treatment of skin conditions by topical application must comply with certain conditions in order to be well accepted by the users. More particularly, they must have good physical properties, in particular consistency and smoothness, have satisfactory effectiveness, and be pleasant to use. In addition, they must be able to be stored under normal conditions of temperature and humidity without significantly degrading and retaining their properties for extended periods.
Outre ces propriétés physiques, les compositions doivent posséder un ensemble d'activités utilisables sur le plan cosmétique et pharmaceutique. En particulier on recherche généralement des compositions associant des propriétés d'hydratation et de protection de la peau contre les agressions . de l'environnement oμ le vieillissement, se manifestant par la formation de rides et de tâches, une plus grande sécheresse et une perte d'élasticité de la peauIn addition to these physical properties, the compositions must have a set of activities which can be used cosmetically and pharmaceutically. In particular, compositions are generally sought which combine properties of hydration and protection of the skin against attack. of the environment where aging takes place manifested by the formation of wrinkles and spots, greater dryness and loss of elasticity of the skin
Les radicaux libres sont connus pour leur effet d'accélération du vieillissement cellulaire. Leur formation est souvent favorisée par des facteurs externes tels que les rayons ultraviolets, la pollution ainsi que l'action de certains médicaments. Les systèmes de protection de l'organisme contre les radicaux libres ont tendance à perdre leur efficacité avec l'âge et il est donc souhaitable de pouvoir disposer de substances susceptibles de neutraliser les effets néfastes des radicaux libres. Divers polyphenols sont souvent utilisés à cet effet. Par exemple, le brevet FR-A- 2.749.303 décrit un procédé d'extraction de polyphenols catéchiques à partir de plantes au moyen d'un solvant organique et leur utilisation dans des compositions cosmétiques présentant des propriétés antiradic'alaires utiles contre le vieillissement de la peau.Free radicals are known for their accelerating effect on cell aging. Their formation is often favored by external factors such as ultraviolet rays, pollution and the action of certain drugs. Protection systems of the body against free radicals tend to lose their effectiveness with age and it is therefore desirable to be able to have substances capable of neutralizing the harmful effects of free radicals. Various polyphenols are often used for this purpose. For example, FR-A- 2749303 discloses a method of catechin polyphenols extraction from plants by means of an organic solvent and their use in cosmetic compositions having properties antiradic 'alar useful against aging the skin.
On sait que le cacao présente des effets stimulants, toniques, nutritifs et anti-stress et diverses substances ont été extraites du cacao en raison de telles propriétés . En particulier, le beurre de cacao est utilisé dans de nombreuses compositions alimentaires, cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques. Le cacaoyer (Theobroma cacao) est un arbuste originaire des forêts d'Amérique Centrale et des forêts équatoriales d'Amérique du Sud. Diverses substances ont été extraites à partir des fèves ou des coques. Un procédé de traitement des fèves de cacao pour obtenir des produits alimentaires et diététiques contenant des polyphenols est décrit dans le brevet US-A-6.015.913. Le brevet JP-A-00.128801 décrit une composition antibactérienne comprenant un extrait de menthe et un extrait de feuilles de thé ou de fèves de cacao contenant des polyphenols, pouvant être utilisée dans des produits alimentaires et des boissons. Le brevet FR-A-2.413.042 décrit un procédé d'extraction de coques de cacao au moyen d'une solution acide d'un alcool, et l'utilisation du produit ainsi obtenu dans des compositions alimentaires. Par contre-, on n'a pas encore envisagé d'utiliser un extrait total de cacao dans des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques.Cocoa is known to have stimulating, tonic, nutritious and anti-stress effects, and various substances have been extracted from cocoa due to such properties. In particular, cocoa butter is used in many food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions. The cocoa tree (Theobroma cacao) is a shrub native to the forests of Central America and the equatorial forests of South America. Various substances have been extracted from beans or cockles. A process for treating cocoa beans to obtain food and diet products containing polyphenols is described in US-A-6,015,913. Patent JP-A-00.128801 describes an antibacterial composition comprising an extract of mint and an extract of tea leaves or cocoa beans containing polyphenols, which can be used in food products and beverages. Patent FR-A-2,413,042 describes a process for extracting cocoa shells using an acidic solution of an alcohol, and the use of the product as well obtained in food compositions. On the other hand, it has not yet been envisaged to use a total cocoa extract in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
La présente invention.' a pour objet une nouvelle composition utilisable en cosmétique et/ou en dermatologie, obtenue par extraction de cacao, et contenant des polyphenols.The present invention. ' relates to a new composition which can be used in cosmetics and / or in dermatology, obtained by cocoa extraction, and containing polyphenols.
L'invention a aussi pour objet une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique à base d'extrait protéique de cacaoA subject of the invention is also a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition based on cocoa protein extract.
(Theobroma cacao) comprenant au moins des polyphenols, des aminoacides et une fraction insaponifiable .(Theobroma cocoa) comprising at least polyphenols, amino acids and an unsaponifiable fraction.
L'invention a également pour objet l'utilisation d'une composition comme indiqué ci-dessus pour le traitement et la prévention des signes du vieillissement cutané tels que l'apparition de rides et la perte d'élasticité de la peau. Enfin, la présente invention a encore pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétologique de la peau consistant à appliquer sur la peau une composition comme indiqué ci-dessus. La composition conforme à la présente invention comprend essentiellement un extrait de cacao contenant des polyphenols. Plus particulièrement, la composition de l'invention comprend un extrait de cacao contenant en combinaison des polyphenols, et des aminoacides et/ou un concentré d ' insaponifiables .The invention also relates to the use of a composition as indicated above for the treatment and prevention of the signs of skin aging such as the appearance of wrinkles and the loss of elasticity of the skin. Finally, the present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin consisting in applying to the skin a composition as indicated above. The composition according to the present invention essentially comprises a cocoa extract containing polyphenols. More particularly, the composition of the invention comprises a cocoa extract containing in combination polyphenols, and amino acids and / or a concentrate of unsaponifiables.
Suivant une forme préférentielle de réalisation de l'invention, la composition contient en combinaison - de 0,05 à 5 % en poids d 'aminoacides extraits de cacao ; de 0,05 à 5 % en poids de polyphenols extraits de cacao ; de 0,05 à 3 % en poids de concentré d' insaponifiables .According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains in combination - from 0.05 to 5% by weight of amino acids extracted from cocoa; from 0.05 to 5% by weight of polyphenols extracted from cocoa; from 0.05 to 3% by weight of concentrate of unsaponifiables.
Le procédé d'extraction utilisé dans l'invention consiste à effectuer une extraction d'un type connu, par exemple par broyage de fèves de cacao et séparation hydrophile/lipophile du beurre de cacao d'une part et d'un mélange de protéines et de polyphenols d'autre part. La séparation hydrophile / lipophile permet, par extraction de la graine broyée, de séparer a l'eau les corps gras surnageants de la phase poly-' phénols / protéines. On utilise de préférence une eau portée à une température comprise entre 80 et 100-°C environ.The extraction method used in the invention consists in carrying out an extraction of a known type, for example by grinding cocoa beans and hydrophilic / lipophilic separation of cocoa butter on the one hand and a mixture of proteins and polyphenols on the other hand. The hydrophilic / lipophilic separation makes it possible, by extraction of the ground seed, to separate the supernatants of the poly- ' phase with water . phenols / proteins. Water preferably brought to a temperature of between 80 and 100 ° C. is preferably used.
Les protéines sont séparées par exemple par ultra- filtration tangentielle (protéines > 10.000 Da) tandis que les polyphenols sont séchés puis encapsulés si nécessaire. La fraction enrichie en insaponifiables est obtenue à partir du beurre de cacao par distillation moléculaire à 200-300°C sous vide (environ 10~4 à 10~2 mm Hg / 0,13 à 13 Pa) .Proteins are separated for example by tangential ultrafiltration (proteins> 10,000 Da) while the polyphenols are dried and then encapsulated if necessary. The fraction enriched in unsaponifiables is obtained from cocoa butter by molecular distillation at 200-300 ° C under vacuum (about 10 ~ 4 to 10 ~ 2 mm Hg / 0.13 to 13 Pa).
L'extrait polyphénolique ainsi obtenu se présente sous forme d'un liquide de couleur sombre soluble dans l'eau et les alcools .The polyphenolic extract thus obtained is in the form of a dark colored liquid soluble in water and alcohols.
L'extraction est réalisée de préférence à partir des fèves de cacaoyer (Theobroma cacao) . Il est ainsi possible d'obtenir des extraits à forte teneur en protéines (supérieure à 5 %) présentant d'excellentes propriétés. En particulier, 1 ' aminogramme de l'extrait protéique a mis en évidence les principaux acides aminés suivants. Dans le tableau qui suit, les teneurs en acides aminés sont indiquées en grammes pour 100 g d'extrait. Glycine 26.3The extraction is preferably carried out from cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao). It is thus possible to obtain extracts with a high protein content (greater than 5%) having excellent properties. In particular, the aminogram of the protein extract highlighted the following main amino acids. In the following table, the amino acid contents are indicated in grams per 100 g of extract. Wisteria 26.3
Alanine 18 , 3Alanine 18, 3
Serine 14,1Serine 14.1
Tyrosine 9,7Tyrosine 9.7
Acide aspartiqué et asparagine 4,2 Valine 3,1Aspartic acid and asparagine 4.2 Valine 3.1
Acide glutamique et glutamine 2,8Glutamic acid and glutamine 2.8
Thréonine 2 , 0Threonine 2.0
Arginine 1,5Arginine 1.5
Phénylalanine 1,4 Leucine 1,1Phenylalanine 1.4 Leucine 1.1
Isoleucine 1, 1Isoleucine 1, 1
Lysine 1, 0Lysine 1, 0
L'analyse montre aussi la présence, dans une teneur inférieure à 1% en poids, de proline, cystine, méthionine et histidine. L'extrait polyphénolique de cacao utilisé dans la présente invention se présente sous forme d'un liquide de couleur ambrée, soluble dans l'eau et les alcools, présentant d'excellentes propriétés antiradicalaires conférant aux compositions suivant l'invention une bonne efficacité dans la prévention du vieillissement cutané et l'atténuation des rides .The analysis also shows the presence, in a content of less than 1% by weight, of proline, cystine, methionine and histidine. The polyphenolic cocoa extract used in the present invention is in the form of an amber colored liquid, soluble in water and in alcohols, having excellent anti-free radical properties giving the compositions according to the invention good efficacy in prevention of skin aging and reduction of wrinkles.
Les polyphenols extraits de cacao utilisés dans l'invention sont de préférence encapsulés, par exemple sous forme de liposomes à base de lécithine, dont la dimension moyenne est de préférence voisine de 100 μm, afin de les protéger et d'éviter leur polymérisation.The polyphenols extracted from cocoa used in the invention are preferably encapsulated, for example in the form of lecithin-based liposomes, the average size of which is preferably close to 100 μm, in order to protect them and avoid their polymerization.
Comme indiqué ci-dessus, l'extrait suivant l'invention contient encore un concentré d' insaponifiables qui peut être séparé de l'extrait total par extraction au dioxyde de carbone, ou, de préférence, par distillation moléculaire. Ce concentré d' insaponifiables contient des hydrocarbures, du tocophérol, des alcools terpéniques et des stérols, et il présente des propriétés de stimulation des fibroblastes parti- culièrement avantageuses pour les compositions dermatologiques de l'invention.As indicated above, the extract according to the invention also contains a concentrate of unsaponifiables which can be separated from the total extract by extraction with carbon dioxide, or, preferably, by molecular distillation. This concentrate of unsaponifiables contains hydrocarbons, tocopherol, terpene alcohols and sterols, and it has fibroblast-stimulating properties which are particularly advantageous for the dermatological compositions of the invention.
Outre les composants de l'extrait de cacao indiqués ci- dessus, la composition conforme à la présente invention peut contenir avantageusement une lécithine hydrogénée. La lécithine hydrogénée utilisée dans l'invention est de préférence une lécithine de soja hydrogénée ou une lécithine de tournesol hydrogénée. Les lécithines disponibles dans le commerce contiennent généralement de la lécithine pure (phos- phatidyl choline) en mélange avec d'autres phosphoglycérides tels que céphaline (en particulier la phosphatidyl éthanol- amine) et le phosphatidyl inositol. Conformément à l'invention on peut utiliser la lécithine pure hydrogénée ou une lécithine du commerce hydrogénée. Un exemple de lécithine hydrogénée utilisable dans l'invention est celle vendue dans le commerce sous la marque Emulmetik 320® par la société Lucas Mayer (lécithine de soja hydrogénée) .In addition to the components of the cocoa extract indicated above, the composition according to the present invention may advantageously contain a hydrogenated lecithin. The hydrogenated lecithin used in the invention is preferably a hydrogenated soy lecithin or a hydrogenated sunflower lecithin. Commercially available lecithins generally contain pure lecithin (phosphatidyl choline) in admixture with other phosphoglycerides such as cephalin (in particular phosphatidyl ethanolamine) and phosphatidyl inositol. In accordance with the invention, it is possible to use pure hydrogenated lecithin or a commercial hydrogenated lecithin. An example of hydrogenated lecithin which can be used in the invention is that sold commercially. under the brand Emulmetik 320® by the company Lucas Mayer (hydrogenated soy lecithin).
Les compositions peuvent encore contenir avantageusement de l'huile de cacao et du beurre de cacao. Suivant la terminologie classique, l'administration par voie topique désigne toute méthode consistant à appliquer la substance ou la composition directement sur la peau.The compositions may also advantageously contain cocoa oil and cocoa butter. According to conventional terminology, topical administration means any method consisting in applying the substance or composition directly to the skin.
Conformément à la présente invention, la composition est administrable par voie topique et elle peut avantageusement contenir, outre les composants de base décrits ci-dessus, une ou plusieurs autres substances connues pour exercer des effets complémentaires bénéfiques pour la peau, et plus particulièrement le tocophérol, la vitamine A (rétinol) , l'acide rétinoïque, des agents bactéricides, etc. Les compositions cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques conformes à la présente invention, sont destinées à une administration topique, et contiennent des supports et excipients couramment utilisés dans des compositions de ce type, telles que des emulsions H/E ou E/H, des crèmes, des gels ou des lotions. Dans le cas des emulsions, la phase grasse peut représenter entre 10 et 60% environ du poids de la composition, la phase aqueuse entre 10 et 80% environ et l'agent émulsionnant entre 2 et 20%, le reste étant constitué par les composants de base indiqués ci-dessus et les autres composants mentionnés ci- après .According to the present invention, the composition can be administered topically and it can advantageously contain, in addition to the basic components described above, one or more other substances known to exert complementary beneficial effects for the skin, and more particularly tocopherol. , vitamin A (retinol), retinoic acid, bactericidal agents, etc. The cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions in accordance with the present invention are intended for topical administration, and contain carriers and excipients commonly used in compositions of this type, such as O / W or W / O emulsions, creams, gels. or lotions. In the case of emulsions, the fatty phase can represent between 10 and 60% approximately of the weight of the composition, the aqueous phase between 10 and 80% approximately and the emulsifying agent between 2 and 20%, the rest being constituted by the components basic components listed above and the other components listed below.
La composition peut encore contenir diverses substances et excipients choisis en fonction de leurs propriétés connues et de la forme galénique envisagée. Ainsi, on peut incorporer dans la composition des conservateurs, des agents émul- sionnants, des agents viscosants, des épaississants, des gélifiants, des antioxydants, des agents hydratants, des tensioactifs, des parfums, des huiles, des lipides, un solvant spécifique ainsi que de l'eau et divers additifs destinés à' améliorer 'les propriétés physiques de la composition. On peut encore avantageusement incorporer des filtres ou- écrans solaires choisis en fonction du degré de protection recherché. On peut choisir l'agent émulsionnant parmi des polymères carboxyvinyliques à haut poids moléculaire (par exemple le Carbopol®) , des polysorbates (par exemple le Tween 20® ou le Tween 60®) , des esters de sorbitan et en particulier un monostéarate, un tristéarate, un monopalmitate, et un laurate de sorbitan (par exemple 1 Αrlacel®) . On peut encore utiliser d'autres agents émulsionnants tels que divers dérivés d'acide stéarique ou palmitique, et par exemple le stéarate de PEG 100®, des mono- ou diglycérides d'acide stéarique ou palmitique, un stéarate de propylène glycol auto-émulsion- nable, ou encore le polyglycéryl-2-sesquioléate, 1 ' éther cétylique de polyoxyéthylène, un polyglucoside de siloxane, ou une silicone émulsionnable . On peut encore utiliser des mélanges émulsionnants non ioniques tels que le Protégin X®.The composition may also contain various substances and excipients chosen as a function of their known properties and of the dosage form envisaged. Thus, preservatives, emulsifiers, viscosifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, antioxidants, hydrating agents, surfactants, perfumes, oils, lipids, a specific solvent can also be incorporated into the composition. as water and various additives intended to ' improve' the physical properties of the composition. We can still advantageously incorporate filters or sunscreens chosen according to the degree of protection sought. One can choose the emulsifying agent from carboxyvinyl polymers of high molecular weight (e.g. Carbopol ®), polysorbates (e.g. Tween ® 20 or Tween ® 60), esters of sorbitan and in particular a monostearate, a tristearate, a monopalmitate, and a sorbitan laurate (for example 1 Αrlacel ® ). It is also possible to use other emulsifying agents such as various derivatives of stearic or palmitic acid, and for example PEG 100® stearate, mono- or diglycerides of stearic or palmitic acid, a self-emulsifying propylene glycol stearate. - Table, or alternatively polyglyceryl-2-sesquioleate, cetyl ether of polyoxyethylene, a polyglucoside of siloxane, or an emulsifiable silicone. You can still use nonionic emulsifiers blends such as Protegin X ®.
Les agents viscosants utilisés dans les compositions de l'invention peuvent être choisis parmi divers polymères d'acide acrylique, une gomme cellulose, une silice, des poly- mères carboxyvinyliques, par exemple le Carbomer®, un silicate d'aluminium et de magnésium, et on peut utiliser par exemple la silice colloïdale vendue sous la marque Aerosil 200® ou un acide polyacrylique réticulé tel que le Carbopol 940®.The viscosifying agents used in the compositions of the invention may be selected from various acrylic acid polymers, cellulose gum, silica, carboxyvinyl polymers, e.g. Carbomer ®, aluminum and magnesium silicate, and colloidal silica for example can be used sold under the trademark Aerosil 200 ® or a crosslinked polyacrylic acid such as Carbopol 940 ®.
Les gélifiants ou épaississants peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les polyacrylamides, des acrylates comme le Pemulen®, les dérivés de cellulose comme 1 'hydroxypropyl cellulose, ou les gommes naturelles.The gelling agents or thickeners can be chosen, for example, from polyacrylamides, acrylates such as Pemulen®, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, or natural gums.
Les agents hydratants utilisés dans les compositions de l'invention peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi un polyol, le sorbitol, le maltitol, le pentaérythritol, les polyacry- lates et polyméthacrylates de glycéryle, le glycérol ou des dérivés de glycérol. On peut aussi ajouter des émollients tels qu'un malate d'alkyle, 1 ' isohexadécane, des triglycérides d'acide caprique ou caprylique, etc. Les conservateurs usuels de la technique des compositions dermatologiques ou cosmétologiques peuvent être utilisés dans l'invention, et par exemple l'acide benzoïque et un p- hydroxybenzoate d'alkyle tel que- les p-hydroxy-benzoates de méthyle et de propyle (Méthylparaben et Propylparaben) , ou 1 ' imidazolidinyl urée.The hydrating agents used in the compositions of the invention may be chosen, for example, from a polyol, sorbitol, maltitol, pentaerythritol, glyceryl polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, glycerol or glycerol derivatives. It is also possible to add emollients such as an alkyl malate, isohexadecane, triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, etc. The usual preservatives of the technique of dermatological or cosmetic compositions can be used in the invention, and for example benzoic acid and an alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as- methyl and propyl p-hydroxy benzoates (methylparaben and Propylparaben), or imidazolidinyl urea.
Les constituants de la phase grasse, c'est-à-dire les huiles et lipides, peuvent être choisis parmi l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de maïs, l'huile de vaseline, l'huile de coco hydrogénée, l'huile de carthame, des glycérides d'acides gras saturés, l'acide stéarique, l'acide palmitique, le stéarate d'octyle, le palmitate de glycéryle, le palmitate d'octyle, un triglycéride d'acides caprique et caprylique, le 2-octyl- dodécanol, l'alcool de lanoline, le polyéthylène glycol, l'adipate d'éthyl-2 hexyle, ou encore des huiles de silicones telles que le méthyl phényl polysiloxane, la diméthicone, la cyclométhicone, la cyclométhicone/diméthicone copolyol, • la phényl triméthicone .The constituents of the fatty phase, that is to say the oils and lipids, can be chosen from jojoba oil, corn oil, petroleum jelly oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, safflower oil, glycerides of saturated fatty acids, stearic acid, palmitic acid, octyl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, octyl palmitate, a triglyceride of capric and caprylic acids, 2 -octyl- dodecanol, lanolin alcohol, polyethylene glycol, 2-ethylhexyl adipate, or alternatively silicone oils such as methyl phenyl polysiloxane, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol, • phenyl trimethicone.
La composition peut aussi contenir, outre l'eau (de préférence de l'eau déminéralisée), un solvant spécifique, tel qu'un alcool comme l'alcool éthylique, ou un éther de di- éthylène glycol comme 1 ' éthoxydiglycol ou 1 ' éther monométhyli- que de diéthylène glycol (Transcutol®) .The composition can also contain, in addition to water (preferably demineralized water), a specific solvent, such as an alcohol such as ethyl alcohol, or a diethylene glycol ether such as ethoxydiglycol or 1 ' diethylene glycol monomethyl ether (Transcutol ® ).
Des filtres ultraviolets hydrophiles ou lipophiles et des écrans solaires peuvent être avantageusement incorporés dans la composition de 1 ' invention, et par exemple on peut incorporer des oxydes de titane ou de zinc, ou encore des filtres solaires naturels tels qu'un extrait de Pongamia.Hydrophilic or lipophilic ultraviolet filters and sunscreens can advantageously be incorporated into the composition of the invention, and for example one can incorporate titanium or zinc oxides, or even natural sunscreens such as a Pongamia extract.
Le pH de la composition est de préférence compris entre 5,5 et 7,5, et peut être ajusté, selon les compositions, par addition d'un acide tel que l'acide citrique ou d'une base telle que 1 ' hydroxyde de sodium.The pH of the composition is preferably between 5.5 and 7.5, and can be adjusted, depending on the compositions, by adding an acid such as citric acid or a base such as hydroxide. sodium.
Le solvant est choisi en fonction des composants utilisés et de la forme d'administration . envisagée. Il peut - être constitué par de l'eau, et de "préférence de l'eau déminé- ra'lisée, ainsi qu'un solvant spécifique tel que le pxopylène glycol, un alcool, en particulier l'éthanol, ou un éther de diéthylène glycol.The solvent is chosen according to the components used and the form of administration . considered. It may - be constituted by water, and preferably " demineralized water". ra 'Lisée and a specific solvent such as glycol pxopylène, an alcohol, especially ethanol, or an ether of diethylene glycol.
Il peut aussi être avantageux d'incorporer dans la composition un actif complémentaire destiné à améliorer le comportement de la peau, tel que le tocopherol, la vitamine A (rétinol) , l'acide rétinoïque, des agents bactéricides, etc.It may also be advantageous to incorporate into the composition an additional active agent intended to improve the behavior of the skin, such as tocopherol, vitamin A (retinol), retinoic acid, bactericidal agents, etc.
Dans le cas de compositions gélifiées à forme transparente ou translucide, par exemple les séru s, il peut être avantageux d'utiliser des capsules ou des liposomes afin de limiter les quantités d' émulsionnant ou de solubilisant. Les formes encapsulées ont en outre pour avantage une libération contrôlée de l'actif dans le temps et donc une action plus continue. Suivant la taille des capsules, on peut en outre obtenir des effets visuels et colorés.In the case of gelled compositions with transparent or translucent form, for example seru s, it may be advantageous to use capsules or liposomes in order to limit the amounts of emulsifier or solubilizer. The encapsulated forms also have the advantage of a controlled release of the active agent over time and therefore a more continuous action. Depending on the size of the capsules, one can also obtain visual and colored effects.
Les capsules utilisées dans l'invention peuvent comporter une enveloppe d' hydroxyéthyl cellulose et contenir de l'huile de Macadamia en association avec les insaponifiables ou le corps liposoluble (env. 20%). Le taux d' encapsulation est généralement d'environ 10% (soit 0,2% d' insaponifiables) .The capsules used in the invention may contain an envelope of hydroxyethyl cellulose and contain Macadamia oil in combination with the unsaponifiables or the liposoluble body (approx. 20%). The rate of encapsulation is generally around 10% (ie 0.2% of unsaponifiables).
La composition conforme à la présente invention peut être présentée sous les formes classiquement utilisées pour une application topique, c'est-à-dire sous forme de gel, lotion, émulsion (en particulier crème ou lait) , masque, stick ou pommade, contenant des excipients et supports usuels compatibles et pharmaceutiquement acceptables. Ces formes d'administration par voie topique sont préparées par les techniques connues, et par exemple, dans le cas d'une crème, par dispersion d'une phase grasse dans une phase aqueuse pour obtenir une émulsion huile dans eau, ou inversement pour préparer une émulsion eau dans huile. Dans le cas de crèmes, on préfère utiliser des emulsions à structure lamellaire contenant peu de produits éthoxylés ou n'en contenant pas du tout . A titre d'exemple, on peut préparer des compositions conformes à l'invention sous forme de crèmes régénérantes ou protectrices, de masques régénérants, de crèmes réparatrices après-soleil, de laits raffermissants, de produits solaires ou de shampooings .The composition in accordance with the present invention can be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), mask, stick or ointment, containing usual and compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable excipients and carriers. These forms of topical administration are prepared by known techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or vice versa to prepare a water in oil emulsion. In the case of creams, it is preferred to use emulsions with a lamellar structure containing few or no ethoxylated products. By way of example, compositions can be prepared in accordance with the invention in the form of regenerating or protective creams, regenerating masks, after-sun repairing creams, firming milks, sun products or shampoos.
Les exemples suivants illustrent plus en détail l'invention sans en limiter la portée. Dans tous les exemples de compositions qui suivent, les parties sont exprimées en poids, sauf indication contraire.The following examples illustrate the invention in more detail without limiting its scope. In all the examples of compositions which follow, the parts are expressed by weight, unless otherwise indicated.
Exemple 1Example 1
Suivant les techniques classiques, on prépare une crème anti-vieillissement ayant la composition pondérale suivante.According to conventional techniques, an anti-aging cream having the following weight composition is prepared.
Insaponifiable de cacao 0,50Unsaponifiable cocoa 0.50
Beurre de cacao 6,00 Amino-acides de cacao 2 , 00Cocoa butter 6.00 Cocoa amino acids 2.00
Polyphenols de cacao encapsulés .2,00Encapsulated cocoa polyphenols. 2.00
Lécithine hydrogénée 4,00Hydrogenated lecithin 4.00
Glycérol 2,00Glycerol 2.00
EDTA tétrasodique 0,10 Phénoxyéthanol 0,50Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.50
Chlorophénésine 0,10Chlorophenesin 0.10
Acide déhydroacétique 0,05Dehydroacetic acid 0.05
Carbomer 0,25Carbomer 0.25
Trométhamine 0,20 Néopentanoate d'isodécyle 4,00Tromethamine 0.20 Isodecyl neopentanoate 4.00
Palmitate de cétyle 2,00Cetyl palmitate 2.00
Citrate de trioctyle 2,00Trioctyl citrate 2.00
Diméthicone 1,00Dimethicone 1.00
Huile de cacao 1,00 Tocopherol 0,70Cocoa oil 1.00 Tocopherol 0.70
Palmitate de vitamine A 0,250.25 Vitamin A Palmitate
Agent hydratant 5,00Moisturizing agent 5.00
Filtre solaire 2,00Sun filter 2.00
Parfums 0,20 Eau q.s.p. 100,-00 Cette composition est appliquée sur la peau en plusieurs applications quotidiennes .Perfumes 0.20 Water qs 100, -00 This composition is applied to the skin in several daily applications.
Exemple 2 On prépare un sérum anti-âge ayant la composition suivante .Example 2 An anti-aging serum having the following composition is prepared.
Amino-acides de cacao 2,00Cocoa amino acids 2.00
Polyphenols de cacao encapsulés 2,00Polyphenols of encapsulated cocoa 2.00
Protéines de soja 10,00 Butylène glycol • 3,00Soy protein 10.00 Butylene glycol • 3.00
Glycereth 26 5,00Glycereth 26 5.00
Trométhamine 0,55Tromethamine 0.55
Pemulen TRI (gélifiant) 0,50Pemulen TRI (gelling agent) 0.50
Nipastat 0,.3,0 Tween 20 0,40Nipastat 0, .3 , 0 Tween 20 0.40
Dérivé hydratant 5,00Hydrating derivative 5.00
Agent rafraîchissant 0,02Refreshing agent 0.02
Glycolisat de Terminalia Sericea 2,00Glycolisat of Terminalia Sericea 2.00
Extrait d'algues 2,00 Parfums 0,10Seaweed extract 2.00 Perfumes 0.10
Eau q.s.p. 100,00Water q.s.p. 100.00
Exemple 3Example 3
On prépare un masque aux dérivés de cacao ayant la composition indiquée ci-après . Amino-acides de cacao 2,00 Capsules d' insaponifiables de cacaoA mask with cocoa derivatives having the composition indicated below is prepared. Cocoa amino acids 2.00 Cocoa unsaponifiables capsules
(taille 700 μm) colorées 10,00(size 700 μm) colored 10.00
Polyphenols de cacao encapsulés '2,00Polyphenols of encapsulated cocoa ' 2.00
Protéines de soja 10,00 Huile de Macadamia 1,00Soy protein 10.00 Macadamia oil 1.00
Huile d'amandes douces 1,00Sweet almond oil 1.00
Hydroxystéarate d'éthyle 4,00Ethyl hydroxystearate 4.00
Alcool cétostéarylique 3,00Cetostearyl alcohol 3.00
Cyclométhicone 3,00 Glycérides de coprah hydrogénés 5,00Cyclomethicone 3.00 Hydrogenated coconut glycerides 5.00
Tocopherol * 0,50Tocopherol * 0.50
Acrylate de sodium / acryloyldiméthyllaurate de sodium, et, isohexadécane , et, Polysor- bâte 80 (Simulgel EG®) 3,00Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyllaurate, and, isohexadecane, and, Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel EG®) 3.00
Mucilages de baobab 5,00Baobab mucilages 5.00
1,3-butylène glycol 4,001,3-butylene glycol 4.00
EDTA tétrasodique ' 0,10Tetrasodium EDTA ' 0.10
Phénoxyéthanol 0,40 Mélange de parahydroxybenzoates 0,30Phenoxyethanol 0.40 Mixture of parahydroxybenzoates 0.30
Parfums 0,20Perfumes 0.20
Eau q.s.p. 100,00Water q.s.p. 100.00
La composition de masque indiquée ci-dessus est préparée par les techniques classiques. Suivant une technique préférentielle, on fait fondre le corps gras à une température d'environ 70 °C. On chauffe l'eau et les glycols à 80°C environ, on dissout les conservateurs et on refroidit à 70 °C. On forme ensuite une émulsion en mélangeant les deux phases. On laisse refroidir et on ajoute le polymère à 50 °C, puis on mélange pendant 10 minutes environ et on ajoute successivement, à 40°C, le dérivé de Baobab, les amino-acides de cacao et les capsules d' insaponifiables .The mask composition indicated above is prepared by conventional techniques. According to a preferred technique, the fatty substance is melted at a temperature of around 70 ° C. The water and glycols are heated to about 80 ° C, the preservatives are dissolved and cooled to 70 ° C. An emulsion is then formed by mixing the two phases. The mixture is left to cool and the polymer is added at 50 ° C., then mixed for approximately 10 minutes and the Baobab derivative, the cocoa amino acids and the unsaponifiable capsules are added successively at 40 ° C.
Les parfums sont ajoutés à la composition à une température d'environ 35°C. The perfumes are added to the composition at a temperature of approximately 35 ° C.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend essentiellement un extrait de cacao contenant des polyphenols.1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, characterized in that it essentially comprises a cocoa extract containing polyphenols.
2. Composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un extrait de cacao contenant en combinaison des polyphenols, et des amino-acides.2. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises a cocoa extract containing in combination polyphenols, and amino acids.
3. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'extrait contient en outre un concentré d ' insaponifiables .3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract also contains a concentrate of unsaponifiables.
4. Composition selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend de 0,05 à 5 % en poids d' aminoacides extraits de cacao ; de 0,05 à 5 % en poids de polyphenols extraits de cacao ; - de 0,05 à 3 % en poids de concentré d' insaponifiables .4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that it comprises from 0.05 to 5% by weight of amino acids extracted from cocoa; from 0.05 to 5% by weight of polyphenols extracted from cocoa; - from 0.05 to 3% by weight of concentrate of unsaponifiables.
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les polyphenols sont encapsulés.5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphenols are encapsulated.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendi- cations précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient en outre une lécithine.6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains a lecithin.
7. Composition selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce que la lécithine est hydrogénée.7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the lecithin is hydrogenated.
8. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'extrait est obtenu à partir de fèves de cacao8. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract is obtained from cocoa beans
(Théobroma cacao) .(Theobroma cocoa).
9. Utilisation d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes pour le traitement cosméto- logique de la peau. 9. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the cosmetic treatment of the skin.
10. Procédé de traitement cosmétologique de la peau caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à appliquer sur la peau une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8. 10. A method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.
EP01947503A 2000-06-16 2001-06-15 Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition based on cocoa extracts Withdrawn EP1289491A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0007748A FR2810242B1 (en) 2000-06-16 2000-06-16 COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION BASED ON COCOA EXTRACTS
FR0007748 2000-06-16
PCT/FR2001/001885 WO2001095872A1 (en) 2000-06-16 2001-06-15 Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition based on cocoa extracts

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EP1289491A1 true EP1289491A1 (en) 2003-03-12

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EP (1) EP1289491A1 (en)
JP (1) JP2004503481A (en)
AU (1) AU2001269172A1 (en)
CA (1) CA2408575A1 (en)
FR (1) FR2810242B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2001095872A1 (en)

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FR2885300A1 (en) * 2005-05-04 2006-11-10 Nuxe Sa Lab Topical cosmetic and/or dermatological composition useful for skin protection comprises an araucaria seed extract

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CA2408575A1 (en) 2001-12-20
JP2004503481A (en) 2004-02-05
FR2810242A1 (en) 2001-12-21
FR2810242B1 (en) 2003-01-17
US20030170199A1 (en) 2003-09-11
AU2001269172A1 (en) 2001-12-24

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